Editor’s note: A Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon tops Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines of 2022. Here are seven Sonoma County wineries to visit for more excellent cabs.
Cab is king in Alexander Valley. The area encompasses 32,500 acres, 14,500 of them in grapevines, and boasts more than 40 wineries. Here are seven tasting rooms pouring excellent cabernet sauvignons and blends, all of them a 10-mile drive (or less) from downtown Healdsburg. They’re clustered close enough together that it’s possible to visit several in one day. Just make sure there is a designated driver.
Click through the above gallery for a peek at each winery.
Alexander Valley Vineyards
Harry and Maggie Wetzel purchased the historic Cyrus Alexander homestead in 1963, planted grapevines and raised their children there. Three generations of Wetzels now farm the vines, with the young fourth generation in the wings.
Their first cabernet sauvignon was bottled in 1968. Visiting here is a throwback to a time when tasting rooms were small and intimate. No fees are charged for the standard Estate Tasting for groups of six or less. Cave tours and barrel tastings are offered, too (call ahead). Reserved seated tastings, vineyard tours and wine and cheese pairings are reasonably priced.
A wide range of wines are produced here, yet when it comes to cabernet sauvignon, the ones to try are the Organically Grown Estate ($34, a price that can’t be beat for such high quality) and the “regular” Alexander Valley bottling ($27). Cyrus ($75), a blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, malbec and petit verdot, is the flagship wine, in its 22d vintage.
Considering the long history of grape growing and winemaking in Alexander Valley, Hawkes is relatively new to the tasting room game. Stephen Hawkes began growing cabernet sauvignon in Alexander Valley in 1972, selling the fruit to Sebastiani Vineyards, Silver Oak Cellars and Verité. He and his son, Jake, began making their own wines in 2002 from the family’s three vineyards.
The best place to taste and acquire them is at the Alexander Valley tasting room in Jimtown (there is also a tasting site in Sonoma, 383 First St. West, 707-938-7620). This is a winery with a sense of humor; elegant, unobtrusively oaked cabernet sauvignons ($70-$95) and a laid-back vibe that connects with visitors. Try the seated tasting with seasonal bites, or upgrade to a vineyard tour.
High-end experiences have long been the signature of this Healdsburg winery, established by Tom Jordan in 1976. Jordan produces just two wines — chardonnay from Russian River Valley ($40) and cabernet sauvignon from Alexander Valley ($60, an excellent deal for such an elegant, ageworthy wine).
The wines and the multifaceted estate are shown off in myriad ways to visitors (by appointment only). They include estate tours with views, culinary gardens, olive trees, bee hives and farm animals; wine and food pairings from estate chef Todd Knoll; vineyard hikes and ever-changing events timed to the season.
1474 Alexander Valley Road, Healdsburg, 707-431-5250, jordanwinery.com.
Robert Young Estate Winery
In 1935, Robert Young — at 16 — inherited his family’s ranch upon the death of his father, Silas, and eventually began replacing prune-plum trees with wine grapes. In 1963, Robert cultivated cabernet sauvignon and followed that with chardonnay a few years later. Robert Young’s son, Fred, and his siblings founded Robert Young Estate Winery in 1997.
Although the vast majority of the family’s grapes are sold, the prime fruit is used in the family’s wines. The chardonnays have a great track record for aging nicely, though the cabernet sauvignons are the heart and soul of the winery. The Estate Cab ($62) is sleek in its supple tannins, yet nicely structured. Bob’s Burn Pile Estate Cabernet Sauvignon ($100), from a location on the vineyard where Robert Young once burned vineyard debris, and the flagship Scion Cabernet Sauvignon ($72) are beautifully balanced as well. Multiple tasting experiences are offered, indoors and on the patio, with charcuterie and cheese. The Scion House visitor center offers 360-degree views of Alexander Valley.
5102 Red Winery Road, Geyserville, 707-431-4811, ryew.com.
Silver Oak Alexander Valley
Many know Silver Oak Cellars for its Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon, often a high ranker on lists of most popular wines ordered in restaurants. Usually playing second fiddle was Silver Oak’s Alexander Valley cab sauv, even though the brand’s first bottling was a cabernet from Alexander Valley, released in 1977. Both versions are aged in American oak barrels rather than French cooperage to give the wines lush, soft texture and a hint of vanillin sweetness. Fans are legion (detractors, too).
The Alexander Valley and Napa Valley cabs are available for tasting — try them side by side — and a library wine is also offered. Walk-ins are welcome; reservations are required for private tastings, pairings and tours.
Ken and Diane Wilson’s winery made international news when it was destroyed in the 2019 Kincade fire. Images of the devastation went viral, with only local artist Brian Tedrick’s giant metal sculpture of a boar named Lord Snort and an original stone wall dating to 1869 unscathed. Within three days of the reopening of Highway 128 south of Jimtown, Soda Rock reopened for tastings, in a tin-roofed special-events barn adjacent to the destroyed structures.
Soda Rock continues to hold tastings in the special-events barn and pours several wines; there are plenty of boldly flavored cabernet sauvignons and other Bordeaux-style reds on the menu. They include The Five-Star General ($58), Twisted Rail ($52) and Spur Hill ($45) Alexander Valley cabernet sauvignons. Private tastings and wine and cheese pairings are available.
Jackson Family Wines’s 5,500-acre Alexander Mountain Estate, which hovers over the tasting room from the north, is planted to Bordeaux red varieties and chardonnay. Old-timers know the estate as the Gauer Ranch, which Jess Stonestreet Jackson purchased in 1995. The wines from the rugged mountain blocks are firmly structured, with a hint of rocky minerality, known to age beautifully for a decade or more.
Several experiences are available, among them seated tastings of single-vineyard wines, library-wine explorations, picnics on the patio and, weather permitting, the Stonestreet Mountain Excursion, a tour of the vineyards with tasting and lunch.
The views are dramatic, as are the cabernet sauvignons; the Cougar Ridge ($75) and Bear Point ($100) bottlings are standouts, and the Estate Cabernet Sauvignon ($100) is outstanding.
Nothing tugs at a Swede’s gastronomic heart strings like glögg at a winter gathering. Just the thought of this Nordic version of mulled wine — scents of cinnamon, cardamom and cloves wafting through the house — can bring a tear to an expatriate’s eye. Next to the joys of a midsummer celebration, the winter glögg party may very well be one of the most nostalgia-inducing of Swedish traditions.
In Sweden, glögg parties kick off the holiday season in workplaces and homes. Abroad, the craving for glögg is the cause of IKEA pilgrimages. For Swedes, Christmastime hasn’t quite arrived until you’ve become suitably tipsy on mulled wine, paired with “lussebullar” (saffron buns) and “pepparkakor” (ginger cookies).
Now, Wine Country Swedes — immigrants like myself and those 25,128 Sonoma County residents claiming Scandinavian ancestry — can find their favorite warm winter drink at home instead of heading to the yellow and blue big box store in Emeryville or Palo Alto.
But you don’t have to be Swedish to enjoy a glass of glögg! Here are three local places that serve glögg paired with Swedish food and sweet treats this winter.
God jul (happy holidays) and skål (cheers)!
Pair glögg with Swedish food at Stockhome, Petaluma
The only Swedish restaurant in Wine Country will do its patriotic duty by putting on a traditional “julbord” — a family-friendly meal featuring holiday specialties — three consecutive Sundays in December (Dec. 4, 11 and 18, with seatings available at noon and 5 p.m. To-go julbord available Dec. 23. Tickets available online).
Swedish chef and restaurant owner Roberth Sundell will serve house-made glögg with candied almonds and raisins, a variety of pickled herring (mustard, grandma’s classic, saffron and leek), dill-cured salmon (“gravlax”), hot mustard-baked Christmas ham (“julskinka”), ginger-glazed spareribs, Swedish meatballs and more. For dessert, guests will enjoy Santa’s rice pudding and homemade treats. All menu items are made from scratch by chef Sundell, including a pig’s head terrine (“sylta”) and pâté of elk (lantpâté).
Sundell’s glögg — made from a recipe he’s been perfecting for nearly 20 years — will also be served at Stockhome throughout December.
“The secret to making good glögg is to keep tasting and adjusting the ingredients to make sure it’s not too sweet, but sweet enough to taste all the spices,” advises Sundell.
The Swedish chef likes to add vodka, cognac or brandy to his glögg for “an extra kick.” He includes plenty of cardamom, ginger, star anise, allspice and orange peel “to bring out the flavor,” and adds dried fruit (plums, apricots, raisins, dried apples) for sweetness. He emphasizes the importance of heating the glögg slowly and making sure it never boils, as this causes the alcohol to evaporate.
Chef and owner Roberth Sundell at Stockhome restaurant in Petaluma. (Beth Schlanker/The Press Democrat)Mustard-baked Christmas ham (julskinka), Swedish meatballs, sausages, ginger-glazed spare ribs at Stockhome’s annual julbord in Petaluma. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
During the holiday season, Sundell has particularly fond memories of working at restaurants in Sweden, where glögg would be served to guests outside as they waited in the cold winter night before going inside to the warmth of the julbord.
The Swedish chef, like many of his countrymen, takes pride in keeping up culinary traditions. While he likes to incorporate foreign and modern influences into his cooking, his Stockhome julbord is a classic holiday meal, the kind you would find in a Swedish home on Christmas Eve (Swedes celebrate Christmas on Dec. 24).
Stockhome’s julbord ($90 per person; $50 for kids 5-12, free for kids 4 and under) has two seating times available — noon and 5 p.m. — on Sunday Dec. 4, 11 and 18. Reservations need to be made in advance by purchasing tickets online at stockhomerestaurant.com. Julbord is also available to-go on Dec. 23. 220 Western Ave., Petaluma, 707-981-8511.
West Wines in Healdsburg hosts an annual glögg party on the first weekend after Thanksgiving. (Courtesy of West Wines)
Sample glögg at West Wines, Healdsburg
Katarina Bonde and Bengt Åkerlind moved from Sweden to Seattle in 1992 and then made their way south to Healdsburg, where they started making wine. Their French-style wines can be found in the U.S. as well as in restaurants in their native country; their 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve was served at the 2010 Nobel Prize banquet in Stockholm.
Unable to buy glögg in the United States, Bonde has been making her own since the early ’90s. After opening the West Wines tasting room in 2011, she has been serving the drink to guests during an annual glögg party that takes place on the first weekend following Thanksgiving (this year, Nov. 25-27).
Bonde makes her glögg a couple of weeks before the party so that the flavors can blend together. In addition to the traditional ingredients — wine, brandy or cognac, cinnamon sticks, cloves and cardamom — she uses dried orange rinds and brown sugar, instead of the refined white version, as this lends extra flavor. She always saves a couple of bottles for the following year — according to Bonde, the year-old concoction tastes better than any other glögg.
“It’s my reserve,” Bonde laughs. But it’s clear that, like all Swedes, she takes glögg-making and drinking seriously. “Do not let your glögg boil,” she warns repeatedly when recounting her glögg recipe. (By now you have come to understand that boiling glögg is a Swedish cardinal sin.)
The annual glögg gathering at West Wines is one of the winery’s most popular events. Quarter Swedes, eighth Swedes; anyone who can claim even the tiniest bit of Swedish ancestry seems to show up for the party, says Bonde. And each year, there are increasing numbers of non-Nordic glögg converts. As is the Swedish custom, Bonde’s glögg is served with raisins and blanched almonds and is paired with ginger cookies, cardamom rusks (similar to biscotti) and other Swedish sweet treats.
Katarina Bonde brings Swedish holiday decorations to her Healdsburg tasting room, including “tomtenissar” (gnomes).
The Healdsburg tasting room is decked with handmade ornaments, which Bonde buys in Sweden. Each year, she brings a suitcase filled with straw yule goats, advent star lights and “tomtenissar” (gnomes) on a flight from Stockholm to San Francisco.
The Swedish gnome decorations are sold to guests throughout the holiday season, in addition to being on display in the tasting room. A word of advice, though: Treat your tomtenissar (gnomes) well. According to Swedish folklore, they act as guardians of the home. If treated well, they will protect your family from evil and misfortune. But the gnomes can also be short-tempered and mischievous. They are known to play tricks — even steal — if mistreated or offended.
The West Wines annual glögg party is Nov. 25-27 from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Reservations are recommended with walk-ins based on availability (last seating is at 4 p.m). $30 tasting fee includes glögg and cookies. West Wines, 1000 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-2066, westwines.com.
Order glögg from Sjoeblom Winery, Napa
Swedish native, winemaker and “glögg master” Mike Sjöblom makes his own version of the mulled winter drink using vintage syrah wine and spices imported from Sweden. In contrast to most Swedes, who tend to use less expensive red wine for their glögg, Sjöblom stresses the advantage of being a little bit more discerning.
“To make good quality glögg, it is imperative to start with a good quality wine,” says Sjöblom, who is one of only a handful of winemakers who use their own wine to make glögg.
The Napa vintner prefers to work with natural flavors: Full-flavored wine (“to bring forward the fruit”) and organic ingredients (“to create the characteristic glögg flavor”) are carefully blended. The use of this process eliminates the need for too much sugar, according to Sjöblom.
In Sweden, there are non-alcoholic versions of glögg. While Sjöblom is “not opposed” to these alternatives, bundling them together with traditional glögg is simply “going too far” in his opinion. Like Roberth Sundell of Stockhome and Katarina Bonde of West Wines, he likes to remind aspiring glögg makers to heat their drink carefully: “Remember, alcohol starts to evaporate at 78 degrees celsius (172 F).”
Those interested in sampling Sjöblom’s glögg every year can sign up to become member of his winery’s glögg club. Club members receive a 20% discount and are guaranteed a shipment of glögg. Non-club members can buy Sjöblom’s glögg for $25 a bottle on the winery’s website.
Purchase Sjöblom glögg at gloggclub.com. 707-363-6035.
Throw your own glögg party
The following recipe is from Katarina Bonde of West Wines, who recommends using a drinkable but affordable red wine. Pair your glögg with Swedish saffron buns and ginger cookies.
West Wines Glögg
Makes 20-25 servings
2 bottles of full-bodied red wine (for example, a fairly fruity zinfandel or syrah)
1-2 cups of brandy or cognac
½ teaspoon cardamom seeds
5 cinnamon sticks (soak the cinnamon sticks in water beforehand to release the flavor)
20 cloves
2 strips of dried orange rind
1 knob fresh ginger
½ cup raisins
1 cup of sugar (brown sugar works best)
For garnish:
1 package regular raisins
1 package blanched, slivered almonds
Mix all ingredients and let simmer in a pot. Do not let it boil since the alcohol will evaporate and alcohol enhances the flavors from the spices. Let wine and spices cool off and pour into empty bottles or some other vessel that you can close. Let rest overnight and reheat when you want to use it (remember not to boil it). The glögg can be saved and used throughout the holiday season.
Serve in small cups and garnish with some raisins and almond slivers per cup. Make sure you also have teaspoons so the guests can get the soaked raisins out when they have finished the cup. They are great!
A renovated ranch house just blocks from the Sonoma Plaza has hit the market for $2,450,000. The 1,600-square-foot home features three bedrooms and two bathrooms and has undergone a stunning transformation from its original 1950s design.
The renovation is the work of Claudia Merkle and Nancy Shipe, who enhanced the dwelling with “beauty and warmth” in mind, while committing to functionality.
Design details, from artful choices of light fixtures and flooring to handmade cabinetry, give the property a bespoke look. White walls make the dwelling look sleek and expansive.
“I like to use light colors in older homes,” says Merkel, who also removed walls in the kitchen and main bedroom to create a sense of spaciousness. Black interior accents and exterior trims offer high-contrast modernity, while stained woods warm up the look.
The property comes with plenty of amenities that encourage outdoor living: a fireplace, a kitchen and wet bar, a handmade fountain, and a large trellis. A no-mow lawn, made up of native grasses, is a drainable, breathable low-water alternative to turf. Low-water plants, like olive trees and pollinator-attracting salvia, dot the property.
Click through the above gallery for a peek inside the home.
For information on this home at 19910 Seventh St., contact Trecia Knapp,415-515-1823, trecia@treciaknapp.com, with Sotheby’s International Realty, 2001 Lombard St., San Francisco, TreciaKnapp.com
A meticulously renovated 1940s home is available on a tree-lined street on the east side of Sonoma. The 3-bedroom, 2-bath home sits on .3 acres and has fresh finishes and opened-up living spaces, creating an airy, tranquil and elegant dwelling. It is listed for $3,495,000.
The 2,312-square-foot home at 770 Austin Ave. was renovated by Sonoma interior designer Rebecca Henley of Rebecca Lynne Residential Design. Henley was committed to preserving the integrity of the original home which, she says, was one of the first to be built on Austin Avenue. She purchased the property from members of the family who built the home. Her goal was to “keep its cottage style but update it for today.”
The property includes a detached 1,100-square-foot garage — a draw for Henley whose father was a car collector.
With a mix of handmade cabinets and the latest design touches — like handmade blue tile in the kitchen and bathrooms and wide oak-plank floors throughout the home — this house is refreshed and ready for the next family to make its own memories here.
Click through the above gallery for a peek inside the home.
For more information about this home at 770 Austin Ave., contact listing agent Jeff Lokey, 559-647-1195, 707-934-2351, Compass Real Estate, 135 W Napa St. Suite 200, Sonoma, 559-647-1195 compass.com
Rebrand of The Sea Ranch Lodge, Sea Ranch, CA Oct 6th and 7th 2020
Sure, there are garlands to be hung and latkes to be fried, but there’s also a special sense of serenity that accompanies the holiday season in Sonoma County. From a weekend getaway to the coast, to meandering through a forest of redwoods, to basking in the glow of twinkling lights, these ten close-to-home jaunts offer joyful, relaxing respite.
Have Yourself a Merry Little Coastal Getaway
There are moments when the Sonoma Coast almost doesn’t seem real. One twist of Highway 1 reveals craggy cliffs, while the next unveils windswept meadows and sandy beaches fringed by churning seas. No matter how many times you’ve done the drive, the sheer immensity of it all remains staggering.
Roll down your window. Take a deep breath. The rest of the world might be hustling, but there’s no reason to be in a hurry in these parts. Losing cell signal and getting lost in the fog only adds to the list of wonderful reasons to come here.
If you need a break during the winding journey, consider stretching your legs at Jenner Headlands Preserve, where even the views from the parking lot are stellar. But as you wind along, it’s when you hit the Sea Ranch that you’ll truly feel that all your troubles are out of sight.
Lodging options are blissfully scarce along this stretch of the coast. Weekend vacation home rentals at the Sea Ranch, known for their natural forms and weathered-wood facades, are an excellent option for those looking to get lost in the beauty for a weekend. Settle into your seaside digs, maybe scope out the perfect spot to bundle up in a blanket to watch the sunset or sunrise, then get outside and get moving.
The Sea Ranch. (Carlos Chavarría)Coastal redwoods tower in a way that makes humans feel very small and very serene. (Carlos Chavarría)
Sonoma County Regional Parks maintains a network of trails in the Sea Ranch; hiking any one of them can instill a sense of calm. For dramatic views of the Pacific that will keep you happily on the move for hours, layer up and set out on the Bluff Top Trail. You can take it as far as Gualala if you’re motivated.
The Shell Beach Trail offers a delightful snapshot of the coastal enclave’s beauty. Less than threequarters of a mile each way, the trail weaves through pines and alongside a meadow with ample opportunities to see birds and deer. Somewhat surprisingly, you won’t find seashells scattered about Shell Beach, but if the tide is down, you can easily lose an afternoon tide pooling. Have a seat on a driftwood log and admire the landscape. You might catch sight of a seal or sea lion, and although peak whale season officially begins in January, you never know when a returning visitor might be lured back into town.
The Sea Ranch. (Carlos Chavarría)The Sea Ranch. (Carlos Chavarría)
Later, make the most of the sweeping seascape in a cozy corner of the recently remodeled Sea Ranch Lodge, a gathering spot for locals and visitors. Grab a cup of coffee from the cafe or a book from the general store, then settle into one of the wooden Adirondack chairs that look out at rocky cliffs that stretch for miles. If a storm rolls in, the fireplace in the solarium will keep you warm. There’s even a record player and collection of LPs to choose from—though you’ll never top the moody sound of the serenading surf outside.
Bluff Top Public Access Trail: 40101 Highway 1, The Sea Ranch. 707-785-2377, parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov
The Sea Ranch Lodge: 60 Sea Walk Drive, The Sea Ranch. 707-579-9777, thesearanchlodge.com
The 1960s-era main building, the centerpiece of Sea Ranch community life, includes a redesigned restaurant, a new café, and expansions to the bar, lounge, and general store. (Carlos Chavarría)Ocean view through a fence at The Sea Ranch Lodge. (The Sea Ranch Lodge)
O Holy Night
There’s something magical about welcoming the start to the season at downtown Sonoma’s Mission San Francisco Solano. The annual holiday open house at the surrounding state historic park centers around a bonfire in the courtyard of the nearly 200-year-old barracks, crafts, storytelling, and live music in the lobby of the old-timey Toscano Hotel.
The tradition of candlelight caroling at the historic mission began in 1986 but evokes a feeling of times long ago. Though plans for this year’s candlelight service inside the Mission’s main chapel are still taking shape, in years past, tickets for the popular service could be purchased in person at the Mission on the Saturday after Thanksgiving.
For many longtime Sonoma locals, it wouldn’t be Christmas without the old-school warm feelings this evening imparts.
December 10. Mission San Francisco Solano and Sonoma State Historic Park, 114 East Spain St., Sonoma. 707-938-9560, sonomaparks.org
Over the River and through the Woods
It’s the quieter season along the Russian River, as summer splashers give way to misty mornings and a peaceful solitude. As we cross fingers for winter storms to bring needed water back to the ecosystem, take a day trip to explore the river’s byways.
Begin along River Road on the deck at Farmstand, the new casual eatery at Farmhouse Inn, and treat yourself to a wood-fired pizza topped with goodness the likes of maitake mushrooms, black truffle-leek cream, and goat cheese.
Consider a post-pizza stroll at nearby Sunset Beach River Park to rack up some steps while soaking in photo-worthy views of Hacienda Bridge and hillsides covered with towering redwoods. From here, you may be able to spot steelhead trout running upstream, especially after a heavy rain.
End your serene ramble along the river with a sparkling wine tasting at Korbel Champagne Cellars, where the historic brick buildings, excellent bubbles, and early winter color in the vineyards make for a serene holiday getaway.
Farmstand, 7871 River Rd., Forestville. 707-887-3300, farmhouseinn.com
Korbel Champagne Cellars, 13250 River Rd., Guerneville. 707-824-7000, korbel.com
Farmstand, the new, more casual gathering spot at Forestville’s Farmhouse Inn. (Aubrie Pick)
All Is Bright
Squeeze the most out of the holidays with a visit to Sonoma Botanical Garden for the Glen Ellen landmark’s first-ever indoor, living botanical exhibition, From East to Zest. The garden’s propagation greenhouse was spiffed up for the show and will be filled with hundreds of rare specimen citrus trees in flower and in fruit. Decorated by Mother Nature herself, the citrus trees brim with vibrant colors and calming scents.
“I think to go into the greenhouse and to be surrounded by all these fragrant fruits, it just feels like an extraordinary plant spa,” says Scot Medbury, the garden’s director. “Plants are such a wonderful common ground for everybody.”
Hold onto the feeling of calm even longer by heading outside to explore the nearly 70-acre garden, with steep trails up the hill topping out at views of the Sonoma Valley.
Meander along the new California Trail to learn about native plants, picnic, and watch for frogs near the ponds.
12841 Hwy. 12, Glen Ellen. 707-996-3166, sonomabg.org
At Beltane Ranch in Glen Ellen. (Beltane Ranch)At Beltane Ranch in Glen Ellen. (Beltane Ranch)At Beltane Ranch in Glen Ellen. (Beltane Ranch)
Silent Night
Find solitude and comfort with an overnight stay in a guesthouse just steps from the vines, now in their post-harvest season of changing colors and dropping leaves. Here are five favorite vineyard cottage retreats: The owners at Forestville’s Enriquez Estate Wines turned an old milk barn into a two-bedroom Wine Country retreat. 5960 Eastside Rd., Forestville. 707-347-9719, enriquezwines.com
DeLorimier Winery has a guest house and two suites surrounded by 17 acres of estate vineyards. 2001 Hwy. 128, Geyserville. 800-546-7718, delorimierwinery.com
Powered by solar energy, the Reeve Wines Villa boasts four bedrooms and three bathrooms, and can sleep eight adults. 4551 Dry Creek Rd., Healdsburg. 707-235-6345, reevewines.com
Beltane Ranch (above) boasts a handful of rooms with perks like clawfoot tubs, French doors, and seemingly endless views. 11775 Sonoma Hwy., Glen Ellen. 707-833-4233, beltaneranch.com
Pezzi King houseguests can soak in vineyard views while soaking in the hot tub. The estate guest house features four bedrooms with ensuite baths and a full kitchen. 412 Hudson St., Healdsburg. 866-4734309, pezziking.com
It’s the Most Wonderful Time of the Year
Like something out of a Hallmark movie, the holidays are the hap-happiest season of all in smalltown Geyserville. Those dreaming of a white Christmas might have their wish granted at the top of Geyser Peak, northeast of town—when a rare spot of winter weather arrives, it’s one of the few places around to pack a snowball.
But even if Mother Nature doesn’t cooperate with some snowflakes, it’s hard not to feel festive while strolling the narrow ribbon of businesses that shape Geyserville’s tiny downtown area. Each weekend in December, Gin’gilli’s Vintage Home makes shoppers’ lives a little sweeter thanks to its hot chocolate bar and seemingly endless supply of apple cider.
A delicate dusting of snow on Geyser Peak outside Geyserville. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)Grilled radicchio at Diavola.
Nearby, the expert mixologists at Geyserville Gun Club Bar & Lounge mastered the art of making spirits bright long ago.
And don’t miss the traditional Japanese hoshigaki display of drying persimmons at Diavola Pizzeria & Salumeria. The orange fruit, strung up above the bar in garlands for all to see, is striking as it dries. Eventually, the dried delicacy finds its way onto the menu in dishes like winter Brussels sprouts with butternut squash, pancetta, and pomegranate seeds.
The window seats at Diavola are the perfect place to grab a bite, stay warm, and watch the Geyserville Tractor Lighted Parade go by.
Always the first Saturday after Thanksgiving, this year parade’s is set to light up the town on November 26.
Geyserville Lighted Tractor Parade, Saturday, November 26, 5:30 p.m. visitgeyserville.com
All Is Calm
Have the weight of the season lifted off your shoulders at Osmosis Day Spa and Sanctuary in the tiny west county town of Freestone. The unique cedar enzyme bath experience at Osmosis, based on Japanese tradition, is the only one of its kind in the U.S.
Find your zen as you’re enveloped in a tub full of comfortably warm, finely ground cedar and rice bran.
The aromatic, full-body compress provided by the cedar relieves soreness and boosts metabolism, bringing you to a state of dreamy, blissful solace. After your cedar bath, enjoy a tea service overlooking the pond and explore acres of exquisitely maintained Japanese-style gardens.
Osmosis Day Spa and Sanctuary in Freestone. (Osmosis Day Spa and Sanctuary)
Getting the cedar enzyme bath ready. (Osmosis Day Spa and Sanctuary)
So This Is Christmas
“Traversing through the redwoods on the Bohemian Highway in December is magical,” says Barbara Gonnella, who owns the landmark Union Hotel along with her husband, Frank. “Upon climbing to the summit of Occidental, lights glimmer through the woods inspiring a nostalgic sense of Christmas.”
There isn’t a bad time of year to hop in the car for a road trip to Occidental—the community’s charm is woven into its foundation. But the celebration shines even brighter throughout the holiday season. Whether it’s walking under the shade of towering redwoods at the Grove of Old Trees or along the darling, two-block long stretch that makes up downtown, Occidental has a way of reminding guests that life doesn’t have to be exceedingly busy to be fulfilling.
Shop for gifts at the local artisan marketplace at Altamont General Store, then reward yourself with a visit to the historic Union Hotel, where come December, the comforting scents of fresh redwood and bay greens meld with the aroma of thousands of gingerbread cookies, minestrone soup, and hot apple cider. Gingerbread stars fill the wood-paneled café, and mistletoe hangs in the saloon. Familyowned and operated since 1925, it’s here that families, friends, and visitors gather to celebrate the spirit of the season.
Impromptu holiday songs often fill the air on weekends and holidays when Barbara Gonnella’s daughter, Gien, takes a seat at the hotel’s beloved piano. Snap a photo in front of the 12-foot Christmas tree, then gather around the courtyard fire pit with a bowl of ravioli or giant meatballs to watch the sun set over the west ridge of town.
Grove of Old Trees, 17599 Fitzpatrick Lane, Occidental. landpaths.org
Linen napkins and handmade wares for sale at The Altamont General Store in Occidental. (Beth Schlanker/Sonoma Magazine)
The Boho Bowl at The Altamont General Store in Occidental. (Beth Schlanker/Sonoma Magazine)
Away In a Manger
Whether it’s feeding hay to a contented cow, or providing belly rubs for a sweet pig, a visit to Charlie’s Acres nonprofit farm animal sanctuary can warm your heart in a way you didn’t realize you needed this holiday.
“We often hear from our visitors that stepping onto our sanctuary with over 150 rescued farm animals gives them a chance to take a deep breath and relax,” says founder Tracy Vogt.
The chorus of animal voices make for a light-hearted, tranquil afternoon getaway. It’s nearly impossible not to smile ear-to-ear as you watch cuddly and sometimes (OK, often!) muddy farm animals living their best lives. A visit here is a respite from the commercialization of the holidays—a perfect outing for families in search of memorable moments.
After winding your way around the farm, settle in at one of the picnic tables for a glass of wine or juice and a beautiful vegan cheese and charcuterie platter. The farm animals make for great company. If you’re lucky, you might even meet Charlie the Chihuahua, the farm’s namesake and Vogt’s very first rescue a decade ago.
Piglets relaxing in the evening sun in their enclosure at Charlie’s Acres. (Robbi Pengelly/Sonoma Index-Tribune)One of the rescued debeaked chickens now living the good life at Charlie’s Acres. (Robbi Pengelly/Sonoma Index-Tribune)
O Christmas Tree
Get outside and into the holiday spirit at one of Sonoma County’s family-owned, you-cut Christmas tree farms. Whether you’re hunting for an 8-foot beauty or are more of a Charlie Brown tree fan, it’s a rosy-cheeked, rejuvenating way to spend an afternoon in nature.
Larsen’s Christmas Tree Farm: From saws and measuring poles, to helpful “lumberjacks” and tree stands, this farm has everything you’ll need. 391 Marshall Ave., Petaluma. 707-762-6317, facebook.com/PetalumaChristmasTrees
Celesta Farms: Dog biscuits are waiting for those four-legged friends joining the hunt for the perfect tree. 3447 Celesta Court, Sebastopol. 707-829-9352, celestafarms.com
Little Hills Christmas Tree Farm: Santa Claus is known to stop by every weekend, in case you still need a Christmas card photo! 961 Chapman Lane, Petaluma. 707-763-4678, littlehillschristmastree.com
Photo by Kim Carroll.Photo by Kim Carroll.
Garlock Christmas Tree Farm: Along with the perfect tree, there are hay rides, farm animals, and handmade wreaths for sale. 2275 Bloomfield Rd., Sebastopol. 707-823-4307, facebook.com/garlocktreefarm
Pronzini Ranch: This farm has two Petaluma locations, but only the Adobe Road spot has you-cut trees. 3795 Adobe Rd., Petaluma. 707-778-3871, pronzinifarms.com
Winemaker Bibiana Gonzales Rave also has a passion for coffee. Along with her husband, Jeff Pisoni, she produces fair-trade coffee Shared Notes at their Pisoni production facility in Rohnert Park. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Bibiana González Rave is naturally high energy, nearly shimmering with joy at her many passions: family, Sonoma wines, and her new Shared Notes coffee, imported from her native Colombia. It helps, she says with a laugh, that she adores the coffee of her home country, sipping up to 10 cups a day.
“Colombia is one of the most predominant producers of really high-quality coffee in the world, and that’s what we drink all the time,” Rave says. “When I grew up there, it was really common that you would just show up at your friend’s house, knock on the door, and there was always a pot of coffee brewing.”
At Rave’s combination winery and coffee roastery in Rohnert Park, she points out a giant slab of redwood, destined to be made into a communal table for an eventual café, where she will serve a full slate of French press coffee made from the single-farm-sourced beans. For now, customers can purchase Shared Notes coffee at the winery and online.
Rave recommends guests enjoy the coffee “soft.” That means made with a filter and poured over or dripped, rather than pressurized espresso-style. Soft brews, she explains, allow you to appreciate the nuances of the fine, medium-roast beans—“cherry, cocoa, caramel, citrus, mild acidity… not burned, bitter beans like so many dark-roast American coffees.”
Winemaker Bibiana Gonzales Rave in the barrel room at the Pisoni wine production facility in Rohnert Park. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)Shared Notes coffee is available at the winery and online. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Rave, who oversees three different labels, including Cattleya, Alma de Cattleya, and Shared Notes wines, says adding coffee to the mix was a natural evolution. “Coffee actually is very similar to wine in many ways,” she explains. “It really is an expression of terroir, so all coffees from all different countries are really different, and like wine, quality is measured by acidity.” The name Shared Notes salutes the collaboration between Rave and her husband, Jeff Pisoni of Pisoni Vineyards.
How does the winemaker enjoy her holiday? Rave and Pisoni, who have two young sons, celebrate by opening their home for a traditional Colombian celebration, the Day of the Little Candles, on December 7. “I started this tradition here in Sonoma, where we light thousands of candles in our backyard,” she says. “It’s how we start Christmas in Colombia, and it’s so beautiful. Everyone lighting candles together brings this amazing love and energy.”
Moules Marinieres with Steamed PEI Mussels, Tomato Buerre Blanc served over Fries at Oyster, a new restaurant in The Barlow in Sebastopol. (Darryl Bush/For The Press Democrat)
RESTAURANT CLOSED
Dungeness crab season has been delayed for a fourth year in the Bay Area, leaving us pining for crustaceans at our holiday tables.
But while the mighty Dungeness may be on hold, Oyster restaurant chef and owner Jake Rand is casting a wide net to bring sustainable, locally available seafood choices to his new Sebastopol restaurant.
Oyster is Rand’s new 400-square-foot, Parisian-style seafood cafe at The Barlow. The open-kitchen restaurant is neatly laid out to include nine counter seats and a variety of outdoor tables for al fresco dining. Rand plans to expand into an adjoining space for additional seating. He also owns Sushi Kosho across the street, which is focused on Japanese cuisine including sushi, poke, chicken karaage and Wagyu beef short ribs.
At Oyster, oysters are, not surprisingly, a highlight of the menu. They’re served raw, baked and fried. The rest of the menu leans on sustainable shellfish, fish, prawns and octopus, all approved by the Monterrey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch as “Best Choices” for eating.
Much of the seafood on the menu is aquafarmed — controlled cultivation of fish and other seafood in water — that sometimes gets a bad rap as polluting or toxic.
Rand hopes to educate consumers about bivalves’ specific benefits for local marine habitats. He said filter feeders like oysters, mussels and clams help keep ocean water clean, sequester carbon and help protect shores from erosion.
“I think ocean farming sometimes falls into a negative context,” Rand said. “If people heard more about the parallels between sustainable agriculture and positive ocean farming, I think it might shift some opinions.”
Baked oysters from Oyster restaurant in Sebastopol. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)Octopus with smashed fingerling potatoes at Oyster restaurant in Sebastopol. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
As anyone forced to eat oily sardines or pickled herring knows, sustainability doesn’t always mean deliciousness. At Oyster, Rand doesn’t have to compromise.
Dishes like chile-dusted calamari with a kicked-up rémoulade sauce, a hearty oyster po’boy sandwich with a creamy lemon slaw or seared scallops with brown butter are familiar yet luxurious.
Rand doesn’t skimp on housemade sauces either. Tartar and cocktail sauces are served here, but flavored aiolis and other sauces are better bets. Prices can be steep but well worth the expense for cracking-fresh seafood, often from nearby waters.
“Sustainability is an easy choice, especially in our geographic area, and it is just the logical approach for this type of restaurant concept,” Rand said.
Best Bets
Baked Oysters Dynamite, $26: Plump oysters are baked with creamy tobiko (flying fish roe) aioli and generous bits of bacon. Think potato skins with a pedigree.
Spanish Octopus a la Plancha, $26: Tender bites of octopus sit atop smashed fingerling potatoes. The pool of earthy black garlic aioli underneath is the real surprise, hidden beneath the crisp spuds. Just as I thought the dish needed a little extra flavor boost, voilà, the black gold appeared.
Captain’s Platter, $62: If you’re dining with a friend or three, this mounded plate includes fried oysters, scallops, calamari, duck fat fries and three kinds of sauce. This is the kind of dish you’d expect at the coast but rarely find.
Crisp Skin “Tai” Snapper, $38: The mild white fish is flaky, with smoked chile oil that gives the cross-hashed skin a snappy bite. But the green Thai herb sauce steals the show, adding a sweet-sour-citrus zing.
Local Albacore Tuna Carpaccio, $18: Raw sliced albacore tuna — with light pink flesh rather than the ruby flesh of bluefin — has a slight metallic twang more often found in leaner cuts. It’s covered with threads of yuzu aioli and fried capers and is a beauty to behold.
Bubbles and wines: French Champagne and other bubbles highlight the wine list. You’ll also find about 40 wine selections, mostly whites from Spain and California, and a handful of natural wines.
Oyster is located at The Barlow, 6770 McKinley St., Suite 130, in Sebastopol and is open from 2 to 9 p.m. daily. Information is online at Instagram.com/oyster_sebastopol.
Skewers at Piala restaurant in Sebastopol. (Piala)
After months of speculation about its future and a delay linked to accusations against local restaurateur Lowell Sheldon, Sonoma County’s first Georgian restaurant and wine bar, Piala, has opened in Sebastopol.
Piala co-owner Jeff Berlin, a longtime Bay Area wine director and restaurateur, is a fan of the Eastern European country and its cuisine.
“I have long loved the country, the food, the wine and the people. I’ve made several journeys there,” he said.
Berlin has worked at several European restaurants in the Bay Area, including Oakland’s À Côté, which has a Mediterranean focus and features a lengthy list of Eastern European wines.
At Piala, the menu is concise, with just a handful of dishes. There is Pkhlovani, a cheese pie with greens; Soko, a mushroom dish with tarragon; Ch’Visht’ari, cornbread with cheese; and Mtsvadi, grilled pork with pomegranate and marinated onions.
Piala restaurant in Sebastopol features Georgian cuisine and wines. (Piala)
Georgian food reflects the country’s location, with a coast on the Black Sea and neighbors of Turkey, Azerbaijan, Armenia and Russia. The result is a delicious mashup of European, Persian, Turkish and Mediterranean cuisine.
Berlin helped develop recipes for Piala with Chef Irma Hernandez and plans to add more dishes to the menu in the coming months, including Khachapuri, a cheese-filled bread, and Khinkali, meat-filled soup dumplings.
“It’s a good starting point for showing some of my favorite Georgian food, and we’ll add specials,” he said.
The food and wine of Georgia also reflect the country’s long and sometimes bloody relationship with its northern neighbor Russia — 20% of its territories remain occupied by Russia, and it was a Soviet-ruled country for decades, up until 1991. Georgia’s bustling cities are modern and cosmopolitan, but, according to Berlin, its cuisine isn’t widely known outside its borders.
“There’s so much Georgian cuisine. It’s mostly unknown to Americans. The country is the size of Switzerland but has 22 winegrowing areas, and every village and town has its food specialties,” Berlin said. (Georgia has many ancient vineyards and is one of the oldest winemaking regions in the world; some consider it the birthplace of winemaking.)
“It was a pilgrimage that took me there, but once you try the food, it’s a no-brainer, Berlin said. “I fell in love with the people and the land, and it was (a) pretty immediate thought that I would open a Georgian restaurant one day.”
But the development of his Georgian restaurant stalled when Piala co-owner and Sebastopol restaurateur Lowell Sheldon was accused of sexual harassment and, in one instance, sexual assault, by a dozen former employees.
Sheldon denied the accusations. Several business partners distanced themselves from Sheldon, and Sebastopol’s planning department rejected an alcohol license for Piala, submitted by Sheldon.
The planning department eventually approved the alcohol permit in July, with the conditions that the license would bar Sheldon from drinking or serving alcohol at Piala and from directly managing emploees, The Press Democrat reported. (The alcohol permit is now in Berlin’s name.)
“This is a passion project for the two of us, and I don’t think hiding from the issues was ever an option,” Berlin said, adding that Sheldon had chosen to confront the accusations head-on and remain involved in the project.
“This is just something we both dreamed of doing,” he said.
Details: Open noon to 10:30 p.m. Tuesday to Saturday; no reservations. 7233 Healdsburg Ave., Sebastopol; 707-861-9186, pialanaturalwine.com
Bonfire Serenade at Flora Luna Apothecary in Petaluma features apple cider, fig balsamic reduction, FloraLuna Old Fashioned Syrup and Bacon Faux-bacco Bitters with aromatics from fresh sage, and Free Spirits alcohol-free Bourbon. (Phaedra Achor)
Phaedra Achor is a lot like the Monarch butterflies that adorn the labels of her award-winning FloraLuna cocktail bitters and syrups — always ready for a beautiful transformation.
A former massage therapist with a culinary bent, Achor started out blending extracts of barks, roots and botanicals in her spare time to create cocktail bitters. She launched Monarch Bitters in 2017, and then rebranded a couple of years later as FloraLuna. In 2019, she opened FloraLuna Apothecary & Trading Co. in downtown Petaluma as a retail showcase for her elixirs, adding botanical teas and other natural products to the lineup.
Now, Achor has reinvented the shop as The Apothecary by FloraLuna, Sonoma County’s first alcohol-free cocktail lounge.
Tucked between Vine & Barrel Wines and Ethical Clothing on Kentucky Street, the diminutive, jewel-box space has a cozy, speakeasy feel — minus the bathtub gin. The Apothecary seats just 18 guests, including small lounge areas on the sidewalk and in the adjoining hallway.
For Achor, launching a zero-proof bar in wine-soaked Sonoma County was a risky undertaking — but one whose time had come.
“I had a sense of the sober-curious movement coming out of the pandemic, and a lot of people in their 20s are choosing to not have alcohol in their lives,” she said. “There’s definitely been a shift in consciousness, so I thought I could create a little niche in Petaluma. My mixers show just as beautifully in nonalcoholic cocktails as they do in spirited ones.”
The Bonfire Serenade cocktail features apple cider, fig balsamic reduction, Flora Luna Old Fashioned Syrup, Bacon Faux-Bacco Bitters with aromatics from fresh sage, and Free Spirits alcohol-free Bourbon. (Phaedra Achor)
Achor also received a push from mandated pandemic shutdowns, which hobbled the initial momentum of her newly opened apothecary.
The shop managed to hang on through the reopening phase, she says, but it never quite bounced back. A few months ago, she took stock of her business and realized that another shift was in order. With FloraLuna cocktail bitters and syrups in distribution across the state, it was time to pivot to a concept that would showcase and support her core products.
Once the idea of a nonalcoholic cocktail lounge took root, Achor went all in on the concept and began developing recipes. Though she had experience creating craft cocktails with alcoholic spirits, this was her first foray into alcohol-free drinks.
“It’s a very different approach,” she explained. “Nonalcoholic spirits don’t have the same density and mouthfeel, so there were a lot of holes to fill.” Fortunately, the richness and complexity of her elixirs did the trick, adding flavor and dimension to the drinks.
Achor arrived at eight cocktails for The Apothecary’s opening menu, including No Strings Attached — a blend of alcohol-free mezcal, tonic syrup, lemon coriander shrub, jalapeño and smoked bitters — and Midnight Mantra, made with nonalcoholic bourbon, cardamom clove syrup, coffee banana cordial and coffee cocoa peppercorn bitters. All selections are priced at $12.
Along with sipping cocktails in the lounge, shoppers can purchase drinks-to-go in glass jars, along with FloraLuna elixirs, shrubs and zero-proof spirits to mix into cocktails at home. Stay tuned for branded cocktail kits, complete with recipes.
Open 4-8:30 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays, and 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Sundays. 122 Kentucky St., 707-387-6766, floralunaapothecary.com.
Beef, squash and maitake are plated for service at Cyrus in Geyserville. (Chad Surmick/The Press Democrat)
Click through the above gallery for a sneak peek inside the new Cyrus restaurant.
The California Michelin Guide has tapped the recently-opened Cyrus in Geyserville as one of 37 new restaurants on the radar of Michelin inspectors.
The announcement of the guide’s latest round of “New Discoveries” offers a preview of restaurants usually considered too new for Michelin stars but still worthy of note. Star rankings for the 2023 California Guide will be announced Dec. 5 during a live ceremony at the Petersen Automotive Museum in Los Angeles. It’s an event that most restaurateurs and food lovers anticipate all year as favorite eateries either get chosen – or sometimes snubbed – by the international restaurant guidebooks.
“Celebrated wine country chef Douglas Keane has returned to the fore with his re-launch of Cyrus in Geyserville. Dinner is an ebullient experience that progresses from canapes and Champagne in the lounge to small bites in the kitchen and concludes with substantial compositions in the dining room,” read the Michelin announcement.
Chef Doug Keane at Cyrus in Geyserville on Thursday September 8, 2022. (Chad Surmick / Press Democrat)
Cyrus reopened in September after a 10-year hiatus and several false starts for co-owners Douglas Keane and Nick Peyton. The original restaurant, located at the Les Mars Hotel in Healdsburg, closed in 2012 after a dispute with owner and wine magnate Bill Foley. (Read the review of the new Cyrus.)
“We hope that these regular revelations and updates to the selection throughout the year will provide opportunities to highlight the profession and invite everyone to discover and support the restaurants around them,” said Gwendal Poullennec, international director of the Michelin Guides.
Other new California restaurants selected for the “New Discovery” distinction include Oakland’s buzzy Hi Felicia; and Ken, Osito, Yuji and Itria restaurants in San Francisco. Los Angeles and Southern California restaurants, which in previous years had limited inclusion by the Guide, received 30 Michelin nods. Earlier this year, The Matheson in Healdsburg was named a New Discovery by the California Michelin Guide. (New Discoveries are featured on guide.michelin.com)
The complete list of New Discoveries, with Michelin inspector notes, follows.
AMA Sushi (Montecito): It’s worth going all in on the omakase to sample the chef’s artistry, which begins with a trinity of bites from soba noodles and fried eggplant to sesame tofu.
Asterid by Ray Garcia (Los Angeles): The evolving menu draws from seasonal local produce and Latin American, Asian and European influences with Chef Garcia’s distinctive Angeleño point of view.
Bar Le Côte (Los Olivos): Slide in to one of the booths or banquettes and settle in for a meal that is an ode to the sea and is best enjoyed with shared plates.
Bird & Buffalo (Oakland): Picnic tables gift-wrapped with colorful plastic tablecloths and unhurried, nonchalant service readily evoke the casual roadside restaurants scattered throughout Thailand — and happily, so do the multifaceted, punchy flavors.
Caboco (Los Angeles): This airy, industrial-chic space welcomes guests with a well-rounded menu of deeply flavorful and thought-provoking modern Brazilian dishes.
Camphor (Los Angeles): Camphor plates seriously good French fare with a sprinkle of spicing from India and Southeast Asia. Creative cocktails, including the refreshing Saint-Germain, complete the experience.
Chulita (Venice): Tacos are served all day at this spot where Oaxacan-style, California-influenced Mexican food rules.
Cyrus (Geyersville): Celebrated wine country chef Douglas Keane has returned to the fore with his re-launch of Cyrus in Geyserville. Dinner is an ebullient experience that progresses from canapes and Champagne in the lounge, to small bites in the kitchen, and concludes with substantial compositions in the dining room.
Damian (Los Angeles): Housed within a repurposed warehouse with polished concrete, exposed brick and pendant lighting, Damian has that industrial chic look down pat, and the menu speaks to a kitchen that is rooted in the nuances of Mexican cooking.
The Dutchess (Ojai): This quirky concept features a bakery/cafe by day and a trendy Burmese restaurant by night. Come hungry, as this heartfelt menu is brimming with snacks, salads, curries and large plates designed for sharing.
Ember (Arroyo Grande): Its inviting industrial-rustic interior is the perfect setting for their heartfelt and down-to-earth cooking. You’ll likely never tire of the contemporary menu filled with comforting favorites.
The Hatch (Paso Robles): It’s all hail to the bird at The Hatch. This downtown Paso Robles restaurant reveres the rotisserie and roasted chicken is indeed the must order.
Hatchet Hall (Los Angeles): This is open-flame cooking, rendered with a Southern twang and seasonal focus thanks to an abundance of local product.
Hi Felicia (Oakland): The transformation of a popular underground supper club into a fully formed brick and mortar may sound like a familiar tale, but rest assured that there’s nothing formulaic about this East Bay iconoclast, whose name is a clue to the kind of exuberant irreverence diners should expect.
in bloom (Paso Robles): Executive Chef Kenny Seliger and Executive Sous Chef Ron Frazier take the now-classic Californian menu and give it a clever update (sweet parsnip cannoli, anyone?) at in bloom. Their cooking is confident, and their dishes really come alive.
Itria (San Francisco): This welcoming, easygoing retreat draws in a lively crowd with Italian cooking that’s appealingly modern. Chef Daniel Evers employs a confidently uncomplicated approach, bringing a light touch to classic flavors and allowing simplicity to shine.
Ken (San Francisco): The city has its share of intimate omakase counters, but few offer quite as much cozy charm as this six-seat gem in the Lower Haight.
Kingfisher (San Diego): A striking central bar provides the perfect perch for thirsty guests to wet their beaks with a terrific assortment of inventive cocktails, which serve as excellent complements to the mouth-watering menu of inspired Vietnamese cooking.
Kinn (Los Angeles): Chef Ki Kim delivers something special with Kinn and his experience in upscale restaurants informs the menu, which features dishes retooled with a Korean bent.
Kodō (Los Angeles): Off-menu specials, such as the Japanese sea snail, are especially memorable, while sea bream and octopus are impeccable. A steaming bowl of little neck clams, garlic and butter is dreamy.
LA Cha Cha Chá (Los Angeles): This sister spot to Mexico City’s Terraza Cha Cha Chá delivers on its name with its upbeat atmosphere. The menu is refreshingly uncomplicated yet inventive with a round-up of botanas, platos principales and well-crafted desserts.
Les Petites Canailles (Paso Robles): Meals begin with a warm gougère before moving on to a selection of hearty appetizers. The menu features several entrées, though most eyes land on the perfectly cooked steaks.
Matū (Beverly Hills): The inviting ambience is elevated by a visible kitchen with views of the action, and the warm, courteous wait staff rounds out the experience.
Meteora (Los Angeles): Chef Jordan Kahn means to cast a spell with his highly inventive cuisine, which defies neat categorization, making use of ancient cooking techniques like hot stones and live fire while utilizing a uniquely modern tapestry of eclectic, global ingredients.
Nate’s on Marsh (San Luis Obispo): Nate Long is the consummate host and the service is exceptionally warm, though it certainly doesn’t hurt that the menu is loaded with classics and riffs on favorites that will have you coming back for more.
Osito (San Francisco): Chef Seth Stowaway puts his heart, soul, and even his nickname (osito means “little bear”) into this rustic, lodge-like spot where live fire cooking takes center stage. Warmth radiates from the central hearth and from the supremely hospitable staff.
Peasants FEAST (Solvang): It may seem impossible to be even more charming than its Solvang surroundings, but peasants FEAST doubles down, and delivers. This daytime-only café from Michael and Sarah Cherney spotlights the seasons on its sandwich-driven menu.
Pizzeria Bianco (Los Angeles): Those who think Los Angeles can’t compete with New York when it comes to pizza obviously haven’t been to Pizzeria Bianco. There is a reason long lines snake through ROW DTLA and queue up at the takeout window with diners hankering for a taste of Chef Chris Bianco’s pizza.
Ramen & Tsukemen TAO (Buena Park): This unassuming spot in an easy-to-miss location in an open-air mall belies the wondrous steaming bowls found within.
Rebel Omakase (Laguna Beach): As its name suggests, omakase is indeed the name of the game here, and with its seasonal, ever-changing fish selection, you’re sure to have a unique experience at each visit.
Saffy’s (Los Angeles): From the hitmakers behind Bavel and Bestia comes this breezy space awash in shades of Starburst pink and orange marmalade. Lamb and pork kebabs cooked on long metal skewers are the main event, but appetizers easily hold their own.
San Laurel (Los Angeles): Expect modern Californian dishes with Spanish leanings from a talented team put together by visionary chef, José Andrés.
Sushi Kaneyoshi (Los Angeles): Great care is taken with every detail, whether it’s the quality of ingredients or the artful plating — some of the dishes are handmade by Chef Yoshiyuki Inoue.
Valle (Oceanside): The name is a reference to the Guadalupe Valley of Baja California, Mexico’s premier viticultural region, which furnishes the restaurant’s wine list, and serves as inspiration for Chef Roberto Alcocer’s refined, modern expression of Mexican cuisine.
Yangban Society (Los Angeles): Katianna and John Hong are behind Yangban Society, a DTLA multihyphenate that is equal parts deli, mini-mart and restaurant offering a multicourse prix fixe featuring straight-up comfort food with Korean flair.
Yuji (San Francisco): Specializing in kappo cuisine, the 12-course menu similarly reflects the seasons, featuring a progression of dishes spanning a series of delicate bites, both hot and cold, and culminating in a hearty dish of steamed rice (which might be enriched with hairy crab or a similar delicacy), paired with pickled and savory miso soup.
Yunomi Handroll Bar (Los Angeles): Chef David Movsisian’s Yunomi Handroll is located on a stretch of East 3rd Street that has become a hotbed of terrific restaurants and nightlife, and this cool, inviting spot is certainly keeping up with its neighbors.
