In California Wine Country, Book Clubs Are Getting a Culinary Upgrade

Before sitting down to discuss “The Widow Clicquot,” the Dutcher Crossing Winery Book Club paired the tale of the Grande Dame of Champagne with their Grace Reserve Brut Rose and a charcuterie cup Thursday Feb. 26, 2026 in the Dry Creek Valley. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Book clubs are typically low-key affairs — conversations over snacks, perhaps a bottle of wine, in someone’s living room. In Sonoma and Napa counties, however, a growing number of restaurants, wineries and lounges are reimagining the format, turning literary gatherings into immersive, food- and wine-centered experiences.

At Songbird Parlour in Glen Ellen, that reinvention comes with an unusual twist: guests are encouraged to bring their own food. The restaurant’s quarterly cookbook club doubles as both a discussion group and a potluck.

“I’m into food, obviously, and I love building community,” said owner Lauren Kershner, who launched the Songbird Parlour Cookbook Club in early March. “So, to pull those two together was just a natural thing for me.”

Each quarter, participants prepare a dish from a selected cookbook and share it with the group. They bring their own plates and utensils, while the restaurant offers a curated list of wines for $10 a glass.

Food and book lovers gathered for the first Cookbook Club meeting at Songbird Parlour
Food and book lovers gathered for the first Cookbook Club meeting at Songbird Parlour Tuesday, March 10, 2026, in Glen Ellen. Participants chose recipes to cook for the dinner from “Kachka,” a Russian cookbook chosen by Songbird owner/chef Lauren Kershner. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Cindy Lasar and her husband Mars made Shashlik Chicken from the Russian recipes book “Kachka,” chosen by Songbird Parlour owner/chef Lauren Kershner for the first Cookbook Club Tuesday, March 10, 2026 in Glen Ellen. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Cindy Lasar and her husband Mars made shashlik chicken from the Russian recipes cookbook “Kachka,” chosen by Songbird Parlour owner/chef Lauren Kershner for the first Cookbook Club Tuesday, March 10, 2026 in Glen Ellen. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

About 25 people attended the inaugural gathering, cooking from “Kachka: A Return to Russian Cooking” by Bonnie Frumkin Morales. Many discovered the event through the Sonoma County Foodies Facebook page.

While cooking for self-described “foodies” might sound intimidating, Kershner emphasized that the atmosphere is intentionally relaxed.

“Let’s just get together and have no real agenda,” she said. “You don’t have to overthink it or commit a lot of resources to it. People can just show up and be themselves.”

At Dutcher Crossing Winery in Geyserville, wine is the lead character in the Sips & Stories Book Club.

Before sitting down to discuss “The Widow Clicquot,” the Dutcher Crossing Winery Book Club paired the tale of the Grande Dame of Champagne with their Grace Reserve Brut Rose and a charcuterie cup Thursday Feb. 26, 2026 in the Dry Creek Valley. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Before sitting down to discuss “The Widow Clicquot,” the Dutcher Crossing Winery book club paired the tale of the Grande Dame of Champagne with their Grace Reserve Brut Rose and a charcuterie cup Thursday Feb. 26, 2026, in the Dry Creek Valley. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Before sitting down to discuss “The Widow Clicquot,” the Dutcher Crossing Winery Book Club paired the tale of the Grande Dame of Champagne with their Grace Reserve Brut Rose and a charcuterie cup Thursday Feb. 26, 2026 in the Dry Creek Valley. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
At its February kickoff, about a dozen attendees discussed “The Widow Clicquot” at Dutcher Crossing’s book club while sipping estate wine Thursday Feb. 26, 2026, in the Dry Creek Valley. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

The quarterly gathering pairs a featured book with themed wines and light bites for purchase. At its February kickoff, about a dozen attendees discussed “The Widow Clicquot: The Story of a Champagne Empire and the Woman Who Ruled It,” sipping as they traded impressions. The club is open to both wine club members and the public.

“We’re all about fostering community and creating meaningful connections,” said Lauren Fairlee, the winery’s wine club manager and the club’s founder. “[This] felt like a natural extension of that spirit.”

Ultimately, she added, “It’s about conversation, shared experiences and building relationships in a relaxed, welcoming environment.”

The Dutcher Crossing Winery book club
Before sitting down to discuss “The Widow Clicquot,” the Dutcher Crossing Winery book club paired the tale of the Grande Dame of Champagne with their Grace Reserve Brut Rose and a charcuterie cup Thursday Feb. 26, 2026, in the Dry Creek Valley. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

In Napa, Leilani Baugh, known as Chef Leilani, has taken a similar approach at Vin En Noir, her hybrid wine lounge and bookstore, where offerings spotlight people of color and women winemakers.

Her Books and Bottles club meets on the second Saturday of each month.

Baugh, an avid reader who often unwinds with a book and a glass of wine, said the idea came easily as book clubs surged in popularity.

“We already had a wine lounge,” she said. “Creating a book club there felt like the perfect idea.”

Though she gravitates toward thrillers and romantasy — a blend of romance and fantasy — Baugh lets members shape the reading list.

“I like talking with everyone to learn their reading tastes and preferences, so the book selections reflect the group as a whole,” she said. “That means we tend to explore a mix of genres — romance, romantasy, thrillers and other page-turners that spark great conversation.”

The evenings are deliberately informal, with wine and small bites available as guests discuss characters and themes. For Baugh, the aim is less about promoting products than about creating a sense of belonging.

“What started as people gathering to talk about books over a glass of wine quickly grew into something bigger,” she said. “It’s really about creating a place where people can slow down, enjoy a good book, sip a great glass of wine, and connect with others who love being a little bookish.”

Attendees during a meeting of the Silent Book Club held at AC Lounge in Santa Rosa on Wednesday, Dec. 11, 2024. (Erik Castro / For The Press Democrat)
Attendees during a meeting of the Silent Book Club held at AC Lounge in Santa Rosa on Wednesday, Dec. 11, 2024. (Erik Castro / For The Press Democrat)
“Shhh…, we’re reading” signs on many of the tables during a meeting of the Silent Book Club held at AC Lounge in Santa Rosa
Attendees enjoy wine and snacks during a meeting of the Silent Book Club in Santa Rosa on Wednesday, Dec. 11, 2024. (Erik Castro / For The Press Democrat)

Wine Country Book Clubs

Azur Book Club: Monthly meetups at the Napa winery feature wines by the glass and bottle. Azur Winery, 1014 Clinton St., Napa. 707-812-4203, azurwines.com

Books and Bottles: The club meets every second Saturday to discuss the latest book and sip wines by people of color and women winemakers. Vin En Noir, 1001 Caymus St., Napa. 707-637-4088, vinennoir.com

Silent Book Club: Not in the mood to mingle? Each month, members of the Santa Rosa chapter meet at a local bar or restaurant to silently read in each other’s company. silentbook.club

Sips & Stories Book Club: Quarterly gatherings include book-themed wines and snacks for purchase. Dutcher Crossing Winery, 8533 Dry Creek Road, Geyserville. 707-431-2700, dutchercrossingwinery.com

Songbird Parlour Cookbook Club: Members meet quarterly at the restaurant to share dishes from a designated cookbook. Email info@songbirdparlour.com to sign up. Songbird Parlour, 14301 Arnold Drive, Suite 3, Glen Ellen. 707-343-1308, songbirdparlour.com

Sonoma Valley Regional Library Cookbook Club: Each month, members browse a selection of themed cookbooks, then prepare and share their dishes. Sonoma Valley Regional Library, 755 W. Napa St., Sonoma. 707-996-5217, sonomalibrary.org/events

Sonoma County Olive Oil Producers Win California State Fair Awards

Extra-virgin olive oil at McEvoy Ranch in Petaluma on Wednesday, June 8, 2022. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)

Move over, grapes. In Wine Country, olives are having a moment.

The California State Fair recently announced the results of its 2026 California Commercial Extra Virgin Olive Oil Competition, and two Sonoma County producers emerged with top honors.

McEvoy Ranch, a family-owned operation in Petaluma, and Gold Ridge Organic Farms, based in Sebastopol, collected a slate of awards, including the competition’s most coveted distinctions: Best of Show and Best of California.

Innovation yields top honors

At McEvoy Ranch, recognition has long been part of the story. Over its 36 years, the olive oil and wine producer has been featured in national publications such as The New York Times, Sunset magazine, Forbes and Wine Spectator, and spotlighted by Oprah Winfrey’s annual “Favorite Things” list for its Whipped Body Butter in 2024 and ODE Hand & Body Lotion Discovery Set in 2025.

McEvoy Ranch's award-winning Ginger Turmeric Olive Oil
McEvoy Ranch’s Ginger Turmeric Olive Oil won Best of Show in the flavored category at the 2026 California State Fair’s Commercial Extra Virgin Olive Oil Competition. (McEvoy Ranch)

The ranch earned Best of Show at the California State Fair for its Organic Ginger Turmeric Olive Oil ($14.96), winning in the flavored olive oil category. The olive oil, which also won Best of Class and Best of California in its division, is made by co-milling early-harvest olives with organic ginger root, fresh turmeric and a touch of black pepper, a process that yields a layered, aromatic finish.

In a statement, McEvoy Ranch president Samantha Dorsey described the recognition as “a profound validation of our team’s unwavering dedication to creating innovative, vibrant flavor profiles in olive oil.”

The McEvoy Ranch "Orchard Club" ships three times a year and includes the Petaluma company's award-winning olive oils plus an always changing variety of pantry goods. (McEvoy Ranch)
The McEvoy Ranch “Orchard Club” ships three times a year and includes the Petaluma company’s award-winning olive oils plus an always changing variety of pantry goods. (McEvoy Ranch)
Blood orange olive oil at McEvoy Ranch in Petaluma on Wednesday, June 8, 2022. (Beth Schlanker/The Press Democrat)
Blood orange olive oil at McEvoy Ranch in Petaluma on Wednesday, June 8, 2022. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)

McEvoy Ranch took home a total of 19 awards for its olive oils this year. Other Best of Class honors went to its Jalapeño, Rosemary and Blood Orange olive oils, while additional gold medals recognized the Lemon, Herbes de Provence and the 2025 harvest of its Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil.

A blend with staying power

In Sebastopol, Gold Ridge Organic Farms secured Best of California and Best of Class for its Picholine Blend ($34) in the competition’s Extra Virgin Olive Oil Blend category.

Gold Ridge Organic Farms olive oils
Brooke Hazen grows 70 acres of olives at Gold Ridge Organic Farms in west Sonoma County. Gold Ridge’s Picholine blend extra-virgin olive oil earned Best of Class and Best of California in the California State Fair’s 2026 olive oil competition. Photo taken on Thursday, Oct. 28, 2021. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

The farm, also featured in national outlets such as Forbes and The Today Show, has accumulated accolades for its Picholine blend in recent years, including Double Gold at the 2025 California State Fair and both Double Gold and Best of Show at the 2024 Sonoma County Harvest Fair.

This year, Gold Ridge collected 11 awards in total at the state fair, including Gold for its Tuscan, Minerva and Arbequina blends in the Extra Virgin Olive Oil Blend division as well as Gold for its Meyer Lemon olive oil in the Flavored division.

A region expanding its identity

Husary Olive Oils
Husary Olive Oils, Wednesday, Nov. 26, 2025, near Graton. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)

Another west county producer, Husary Olive Oil, received a gold medal for its Tuscan blend, continuing a track record of recognition at both the state and county level.

Together, the results underscore a broader evolution in Northern California agriculture: while wine remains the region’s signature, olive oil producers are increasingly commanding attention — one carefully pressed bottle at a time.

Find the full list of winners from the California State Fair’s Commercial Extra Virgin Olive Oil Competition here.

The Sonoma County Brewpubs Hopping With Fun and Games

Left to right (center), Tanner Faber, Michael Estens, and Katie-Lauren Dunbar (hyphenated first name), all of Santa Rosa, calling themselves the team name “Bidets and Confused” discuss their answers to trivia questions during trivia night presented by North Bay Trivia at Golden State Cider Taproom, Thursday, October 13, 2022, in Sebastopol. (Darryl Bush / For The Press Democrat)

Welcome to the always hopping modern brewpub, where sometimes the beer itself is an afterthought. One night it’s cornhole, the next night trivia, or a concert, or maybe a trip back in time through a pinball arcade.

“Breweries are there for people to have beer, but they’re also there for people to spend time with each other and inspire conversation and make jokes and stuff,” says Trey Hart, a recent “Jeopardy” champion who hosts Redwood Empire Food Bank’s popular Tap Out Hunger trivia night fundraisers at breweries from Parliament to HenHouse. (Check out refb.org for their upcoming lineup of Tap Out Hunger brewery trivia nights).

Just to give you an idea of what’s out there, here’s a less-than-exhaustive list of daily entertainment from the local brewery scene:

Think and drink at Cooperage Brewing Company in Santa Rosa, which hosts trivia nights on Monday at its downtown location and on Tuesday at its Airway Court location.
Think and drink at Cooperage Brewing Company in Santa Rosa, which hosts trivia nights on Monday at its downtown location and on Tuesday at its Airway Court location. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)

Monday

Cooperage Brewing Co. (downtown): Trivia from 7-9 p.m. 575 Ross St., Santa Rosa. cooperagebrewing.com

Tuesday

Iron Ox Brewing: The brewery hosts surprisingly competitive cornhole tournaments at 6:30 p.m. 3334 Industrial Drive, Santa Rosa. ironoxbeer.com

Cooperage Brewing (Airway): Trivia night from 6-8 p.m. 981 Airway Court, Suite G, Santa Rosa

Old Caz: Trivia Gauntlet 6 p.m. Somo Village, 1500 Valley House Drive, Suite 110, Rohnert Park. oldcaz.com

Fogbelt Brewing (Santa Rosa): Trivia with comedian Cody Smit, 7-9 p.m. 1305 Cleveland Ave., Santa Rosa. fogbeltbrewing.com 

Trivia night at Parliament Brewing in Sonoma County
Fans of beer and trivia fill the seats on a Wednesday night at Parliament Brewing Company in Rohnert Park on Feb. 15, 2022. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Fans of beer and trivia fill the seats on a Wednesday night at Parliament Brewing Company in Rohnert Park on February 15, 2022. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Fans of beer and trivia fill the seats on a Wednesday night at Parliament Brewing Company in Rohnert Park on Feb. 15, 2022. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Wednesday

Sonoma Springs Brewing Company: The brewery often hosts bingo nights on Wednesdays and Thursdays, benefiting local organizations. $10 for a set of cards. 19449 Riverside Drive, Suite 101, Sonoma. sonomaspringsbrewing.com

Moonlight Brewing: Trivia 6-8 p.m. 3350 Coffey Lane, Suites A & D, Santa Rosa. moonlightbrewing.com

Parliament Brewing: Trivia 6 p.m. Also look for monthly themed-trivia nights, typically the third Tuesday at 6 p.m. Recent themes have included Disney, Harry Potter, and “The Office.” 5865 Labath Ave., Unit 9, Rohnert Park. parliamentbrewing.com

Crooked Goat Brewing: Trivia 6:30-8 p.m. 110 Howard St., Petaluma. crookedgoatbrewing.com

Barrel Brothers Brewing: Trivia 6:30-8:30 p.m. 9238 Old Redwood Hwy., Suite 128, Windsor. barrelbrothersbrewing.com

Katie Karns talks to her teammates about the correct answers for the Redwood Empire Food Bank’s Trivia Night at Barrel Brothers Brewing Kitchen & Cocktails in Windsor on Thursday, Dec. 14, 2023. (Abraham Fuentes / For The Press Democrat)
Katie Karns talks to her teammates about the correct answers for the Redwood Empire Food Bank’s Trivia Night at Barrel Brothers Brewing Kitchen & Cocktails in Windsor on Thursday, Dec. 14, 2023. (Abraham Fuentes / For The Press Democrat)
Ashley Babin writes down their answers for the Redwood Empire Food Bank’s Trivia Night at Barrel Brothers Brewing Kitchen & Cocktails in Windsor on Thursday, Dec. 14, 2023. (Abraham Fuentes / For The Press Democrat)
Ashley Babin writes down their answers for the Redwood Empire Food Bank’s Trivia Night at Barrel Brothers Brewing Kitchen & Cocktails in Windsor on Thursday, Dec. 14, 2023. (Abraham Fuentes / For The Press Democrat)

Thursday

Shady Oak Brewing: Trivia 7 p.m., plus they always have pinball and old-school video arcade games. 420 First St., Santa Rosa. shadyoakbrewing.com

Lagunitas Taproom and Brewery: Music Bingo from 5:30-7 p.m. (also hosts trivia on Wednesdays, 5:30-7 p.m.). 1280 N. McDowell Blvd., Petaluma. lagunitas.com

Fogbelt Station (Healdsburg): Trivia 6-8 p.m. 410 Hudson St., Healdsburg

Golden State Cider: Trivia 6-8 p.m., for those who prefer a hard cider over beer. The Barlow, 180 Morris St., Suite 150, Sebastopol. drinkgoldenstate.com

Trivia night at Golden State Cider
From left, Talia Putman, Audrianna Chappell, and Alexa Kolintzas, all of Rohnert Park, answer questions during trivia night presented by North Bay Trivia at Golden State Cider Taproom, Thursday, Oct. 13, 2022, in Sebastopol. (Darryl Bush / For The Press Democrat)
Left to right (center), Tanner Faber, Michael Estens, and Katie-Lauren Dunbar, all of Santa Rosa, who call themselves the "Bidets and Confused," discuss their answers to questions during trivia night presented by North Bay Trivia at Golden State Cider Taproom, Thursday, Oct. 13, 2022, in Sebastopol.
Left to right (center), Tanner Faber, Michael Estens, and Katie-Lauren Dunbar, all of Santa Rosa, who call themselves the “Bidets and Confused,” discuss their answers to questions during trivia night presented by North Bay Trivia at Golden State Cider Taproom, Thursday, Oct. 13, 2022, in Sebastopol. (Darryl Bush / For The Press Democrat)

Saturday

Iron Ox Brewing: Comedy night from 8-10 p.m. the last Saturday of the month. 3334 Industrial Drive, Santa Rosa

Sunday

Cooperage Brewing (Airway location): End the week with the most unusual brew combo of them all: Beer and Yoga with Alicia Franci Uresti at 10:30 a.m. Here’s the pitch: “Start your day with a rejuvenating hatha-style slow-flow session followed by a refreshing pint of beer with fellow yogis.” What could possibly go wrong? 981 Airway Court, Suite G, Santa Rosa

This roundup is from our Ultimate Guide to Sonoma County’s Beer Scene, originally published in the March/April 2026 issue of Sonoma Magazine.

The Sonoma County Professionals Making a Splash in the Beer Scene

Cooperage Brewing Company art director and head of design Nicky London with the numerous beer cans featuring his artwork in Santa Rosa on Tuesday, February 3, 2026. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

Brewpubs have always been community hubs. In the past few years, Sonoma County’s breweries have broadened their appeal with craveable food, competitive game nights, and a growing list of beverages.

Here are the locals using their talents to create a brewery culture where everyone is welcome and fun is always on tap.

A beer-can artist taps visual flair

Walking past the beer aisle in the grocery store is tough for Nicky London.

“I always twist the cans so the labels show,” he says. “I do it for all the brands that I’ve worked with.”

One of the most sought-after beer-can artists in Sonoma County, London says he’s simply solving a problem for breweries in a crowded market by helping them stand out.

Cooperage Brewing Company art director and head of design Nicky London with the numerous beer cans featuring his artwork
Cooperage Brewing Company art director and head of design Nicky London with the numerous beer cans featuring his artwork in Santa Rosa on Tuesday, Feb. 3, 2026. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)
Cans of Cooperage Brewing beer
Some of the beer cans featuring the artwork of Cooperage Brewing Company art director and head of design Nicky London in Santa Rosa on Tuesday, Feb. 3, 2026. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)

As art director and head of design at Cooperage, he’s created more than 100 labels for the Santa Rosa brewery. He also plies his trade as a freelance artist, painting cans for Fogbelt, Moonlight, and Marin County-based Pond Farm breweries.

In an age of eye-popping wraparound labels hyping a constant rotation of varieties, London taps into his own unique visual flair — sometimes trippy and cartoonish, other times macabre with dark, painterly brush strokes — often playing with pop cultural references.

For a “Clear and Loathing” beer, a play on a Hunter S. Thompson classic, he hid Easter eggs like flying stingrays and a creepy hitchhiker deep in the label.

Having worked in both the restaurant and wine industries, he loves the communal vibe of the beer business. “If you’re not buying my beer on the shelf and you’re buying somebody else’s, it’s still a win for beer. I don’t take those types of things personally. I’m like, hell yeah, people are still out there looking for fun stuff — and that gives you the drive to create the next fun thing.”

Favorite Beers:

  • Cooperage Brewing’s Crispy Crusher American pale ale
  • Moonlight Brewing’s Death & Taxes black lager
Moonlight Brewing beer
Death & Taxes, the signature beer of Moonlight Brewing Company in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Fogbelt Brewing Company co-owners Paul Hawley, left, and Remy Martin at their Fogbelt Station beer garden in Healdsburg
Fogbelt Brewing Company co-owners Paul Hawley, left, and Remy Martin at their Fogbelt Station beer garden in Healdsburg on Friday, Aug. 12, 2022. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)

Sonoma County’s classic comebacks

Fogbelt Brewing co-owner Paul Hawley remembers Red Tail Ale fondly. “That was the beer my dad used to drink, so that was the beer I’d grab from the fridge at home,” he says. The amber ale and flagship beer for Mendocino Brewing Company, which opened California’s first brewpub in 1983, developed a cult-like following.

The pub closed in 2018, but when a new owner bought the former Ukiah facility, he inherited its recipes and approached Fogbelt about a Red Tail revival. Hawley’s team consulted original brewers, then tweaked the recipe, adding a dry hop “to pop up the aromatics” before launching in March 2025.

It’s the latest blast from the past in local beer comebacks. In 2024, childhood buddies resurrected three Third Street Aleworks beers after the Santa Rosa brewpub shut down the previous year. Before that, Rich Norgrove of Bear Republic joined the Grace family, once synonymous with Sonoma County beer, to brew a limited release Grace Bros. Bavarian Lager. Russian River Brewing has long paid tribute to Grace Bros. with its Happy Hops IPA and Velvet Glow lager.

Pat Reece loads a pallet with Bear Republic Grace Bros. Bavarian-type beer in Cloverdale
Pat Reece loads a pallet with Bear Republic Grace Bros. Bavarian-type beer in Cloverdale on Thursday, Sept. 15, 2022. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)
A vintage Grace Bros. Beer company coat owned by John Burton, at his home in Santa Rosa, on Tuesday, May 2, 2017. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
A vintage Grace Bros. Beer company coat owned by John Burton, at his home in Santa Rosa, on Tuesday, May 2, 2017. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)

In an industry obsessed with the next new thing, it’s nice to look back, Hawley says. “People seem to be going back to stuff they know and like, rather than demanding something new all the time.”

Red Tail’s reception has been enthusiastic — Fogbelt is doubling production this year to 600 barrels. “Every week we get calls and emails from people grateful that it’s back,” says Hawley. As for his dad, who frequented the old Hopland brewpub and once trained red-tailed hawks, “He’s excited to have it in his fridge again.”

Favorite beers:

  • Fogbelt’s Godwood Triple IPA
  • Moonlight’s Reality Czech Pilsner
Co-founder and brewmaster Hendrik Cuver at Cuver Brewing in Windsor
Co-founder and brewmaster Hendrik Cuver at Cuver Brewing in Windsor Sunday, Feb. 8, 2026. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)

The brewer banking on Belgians

Born in Belgium and raised in the United States, brewer Hendrik Cuver has something to prove at Cuver Brewing in Windsor. “It’s really a cultural passion project,” he says. “We wanted to show people what beer would taste like if you had a Belgian beer in Belgium.”

It’s a bold move in a market over-saturated with hazies and other hop-driven IPAs. But people are taking notice. “I’ve had a lot of people tell us, ‘You’re the brewers’ favorite brewery.’ Since our Belgians are kind of unique, they like to come here,” Cuver says.

The name “Cuver” is an amalgam of his family’s last name, Verspecht, and his wife Amber’s maiden name, Cushing. “Put them together and it just happens to be a French verb that means ‘to ferment,'” he says.

His father, Jan Verspecht, is the owner, while his father-in-law, Reed Cushing, is the other brewer. Amber does the marketing.

A fourth-generation brewer, Cuver took up homebrewing at the age of 15. That’s when he began experimenting with adding Meyer lemon peel and California bay laurel leaves to the brew — what eventually became his signature Pepperwood saison ale, the brewery’s best seller.

Beer from Cuver Brewing in Windsor
From left, Pepperwood Signature Saison Ale, Midnight Gardener Rosemary Rye Ale, and Dobbel Dark Abbey Ale at Cuver Brewing in Windsor Sunday, Feb. 8, 2026. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Beer bottles from Cuver Brewing in Windsor
From left, bottles of Dark Lioness Quadrupel, Tripel Golden Abbey Ale and Dobbel Dark Abbey Ale at Cuver Brewing in Windsor Sunday, Feb. 8, 2026. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)

Five years into the business, the ultimate compliment is when vacationing Belgians drop by for a beer. “When they tell me that it tastes like home, then I’m happy — that’s all I’m trying to do.”

Favorite beers:

  • By Her Bootstraps White IPA, a Cuver collaboration with the Pink Boots Society (March 2026 release)
  • Old Caz Beer’s Bukovany Pivo Czech pilsner

— John Beck

Certified Cicerone Allo Gilinsky at Cuver Brewing in Windsor Sunday, Feb. 8, 2026. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Certified Cicerone Allo Gilinsky at Cuver Brewing in Windsor Sunday, Feb. 8, 2026. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)

A Sonoma County cicerone

While most are familiar with the term sommelier, an expert in wine, fewer are aware of the beer world equivalent — the cicerone. “Cicerone is Italian for guide,” explains Sebastopol resident Allo Gilinsky, one of a number of Sonoma County cicerones.

Gilinsky’s passion for a well-pulled pint began with beer drinking and bar hopping in college, then blossomed while tasting his way through flights at Lagunitas and working as a tour guide at Russian River Brewing Company’s Windsor facility during its early days. While working on the East Coast, he pursued a cicerone certification, a self-directed course of study that culminates with a written test and a tasting exam that requires aspiring cicerones to identify things like beer styles and off flavors. “Most of your certified cicerone studies are tasting bad beer,” says Gilinsky.

While many who complete the certification are brewers and taproom managers, the program is open to anyone who wants to wear their beer geek status as a badge of honor. “You become part of a community of people who are passionate about beer and beer education. It’s a ‘welcome to the club’ type of moment,” he says.

Since returning to Sonoma County from Boston last year, Gilinsky has focused on building his business, Craft Beer Concierge, providing beer education for beer lovers and businesses alike.

“I like to make beer approachable and intriguing to people. It brings people together over a beverage.”

Moonlight Brewing Company’s Wee Nibble Saison.
Moonlight Brewing Company’s Wee Nibble Saison. (Moonlight Brewing Co.)

Top 5 picks from a local beer expert

Wee Nibble Saison, Moonlight Brewing: “This one really scratches the itch for any lover of Belgian yeast and saisons. Pairs beautifully with food and sunshine.”

Happy Hops, Russian River Brewing: “This hoppy offering doesn’t get quite the love it should. A beer that expertly bridges the palate for fans of both classic bitter and newer tropical IPAs, it’s got a boatload of hops in it and remains well balanced.”

Dark Sarcasm, Barrel Brothers Brewing: “For a robust beer, it doesn’t get much better for me than this porter that hits all the right notes of coffee and chocolate flavor. A great beer to drink, and an even better beer to cook with.”

Wok This Way, Cooperage Brewing: “A light yet flavorful lager that’s made with jasmine rice. One you want on their patio on a hot day and should not be missed.”

Dobbel, Cuver Brewing: “A beer that’s so true to style, I could cry. Belgian Dubbels are complex, warming, and meant to be drunk over conversation, and Cuver’s really hits the mark.”

— Jennifer Graue

This roundup is from our Ultimate Guide to Sonoma County’s Beer Scene, originally published in the March/April 2026 issue of Sonoma Magazine.

24 Best Outdoor Dining Spots in Sonoma County

If you’re heading out to the coast, the Wild Poppy offers a creekside, dog-friendly patio with music for brunch on the weekends Saturday, July 13, 2024 on the Bodega Highway west of Sebastopol. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

In temperate Sonoma County, it’s rare to find a dining spot without a lovely patio or sidewalk seating. Still, a few standouts truly shine at offering stellar outdoor spaces alongside great food.

Here are my picks for shaded patios, prime sidewalk people-watching and sun-dappled gardens worth seeking out. As someone prone to severe sunburn, I’ve included a “shade score” to indicate how much coverage you can expect from umbrellas and other shade sources.

Santa Rosa

Mitote Food Park

Set in the heart of the predominantly Latino community of Roseland, this happy gathering of food trucks features the flavors of Oaxaca, Jalisco, Michoacan, Yucatán, and Mexico City. There’s also a vibrant al fresco bar and live music with fully tented sun coverage. Shade score: 9/10. 100 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa, mitotefoodpark.com

Spinster Sisters

This outdoor garden is all about wide-open spaces in an urban setting. Enjoy supper and wine beneath colorful sails and twinkling lights. Charming bistro tables and retro picnic benches covered by floral oilcloth match the creative vibe of the SOFA (South of A Street) neighborhood. Shade score: 6/10. 401 South A St., Santa Rosa, 707-528-7100, thespinstersisters.com

The Spinster Sisters garden patio
Warm summer nights for dinner in The Spinster Sisters garden patio Tuesday, July 9, 2024 in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
The outdoor patio seating at Grata
The outdoor patio seating at Grata Italian Eatery Thursday, May 8, 2025, in Windsor. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Windsor

Grata

This Windsor restaurant serves up neighborhood Italian fare on a semi-enclosed patio with plenty of shady spots and cool breezes. The tiny tables aren’t ideal, but the risotto more than makes up for it. Shade score: 8/10. 186 Windsor River Road, Windsor, 707-620-0508, gratawindsor.com

Sonoma Valley

Sunflower Caffe

This longtime breakfast, brunch and lunch café has a secret — its shaded back patio features a sunny oasis decorated in cheery yellow hues. Surrounded by old oaks and topped with a weather-resistant pergola, it’s ready for almost any season. Best bites include the breakfast biscuit, regularly changing waffles and kale chicken Caesar salad, along with wellness shots and mimosas. Shade score 9/10. 421 First St. W., Sonoma, 707-996-6645, sonomasunflower.com

Outside dining table at Sunflower Caffe in Sonoma. (Sonoma County Tourism)
Outside dining table at Sunflower Caffe in Sonoma. (Sonoma County Tourism)
The outdoor patio at Salt & Stone
The outdoor patio at Salt & Stone in Kenwood. (Sonoma County Tourism)

Salt & Stone

Outdoor tables (with umbrellas) surround a tranquil lily pond and at night, twinkle lights give off a soft glow, making this a favorite romantic rendezvous in Kenwood. Solid American classic cuisine with a full bar. Shade score 4/10. 9900 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, 707-833-6326, saltstonekenwood.com

Valley Swim Club

This seafood-centric restaurant has no indoor seating, so the year-round outdoor space is well-covered with retro-chic furniture and comfy bench seats. Oversize striped umbrellas create a shaded oasis for yard seating. Shade Score: 9/10. 18709 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, 707-243-3032, valleyswim.club

Valley Swim Club restaurant
Dip your toes into the casual-chic scene at Valley Swim Club, a walk-in-only outdoor dining spot modeled after an East Coast clam shack. (Eileen Roche / For Sonoma Magazine)

El Dorado Kitchen

A private courtyard and pool transport you from the busy downtown square to a restful retreat. Excellent Cal-Italian food and craft cocktails complement the intimate space. Shade Score: 7/10. 405 First St. W., Sonoma, 707-996-3030, eldoradosonoma.com

The Girl & the Fig

Large umbrellas and sunshades cover the enclosed patio space that’s a world away from the daily grind. Casual French cuisine with a full cocktail bar and friendly service. Shade Score: 7/10. 110 W. Spain St., Sonoma, 707-938-3634, thegirlandthefig.com

The popular patio at The Girl & The Fig on farmers market night in the Sonoma square Tuesday, July 9, 2024. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
The popular patio at The Girl & The Fig on farmers market night in the Sonoma square Tuesday, July 9, 2024. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Handline
The outdoor dining patio at Handline in Sebastopol. (Handline)
Sebastopol

Handline

Shoji screen-style windows open wide to let cool breezes flow through the restaurant, but the tented patio remains a favorite for families and pets. A children’s area nearby helps keep little ones entertained. Creamy soft serve is a nostalgic nod to the restaurant’s past as a Fosters Freeze. Shade score: 9/10. 935 Gravenstein Highway S., Sebastopol, 707-827-3744, handline.com

Khom Loi restaurant in Sebastopol. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Outdoor dining at Khom Loi restaurant in Sebastopol. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Khom Loi

It’s the best of both worlds — indoor while feeling like you’re outdoor — at this popular Thai restaurant. Enclosed on three sides with a soaring atrium, the space lets in the breeze while keeping you out of direct sunlight. Ramen Gaijin’s culinary team brings their love of Thailand’s sweet, salty, sour and fragrant cuisine to Sebastopol with style. Shade score: 10/10. 7385 Healdsburg Ave., Sebastopol, 707-329-6917, khomloisonoma.com

Wild Poppy

The rambling outdoor patio of this offbeat Sebastopol roadhouse has always been a magical place, full of nooks, crannies and hidden spaces to explore. Despite plenty of umbrellas, it can be hard to find complete shade on extra hot days, but a quiet ledge overlooking the creek offers leafy coverage. Don’t miss the Cosmic Queso! Shade score: 7/10. 9890 Bodega Highway, Sebastopol, 707-503-6332, thewildpoppycafe.com

If you're heading out to the coast, the Wild Poppy offers a creekside, dog-friendly patio with music for brunch on the weekends Saturday, July 13, 2024 on the Bodega Highway west of Sebastopol. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
If you’re heading out to the coast, the Wild Poppy offers a creekside, dog-friendly patio with music for brunch on the weekends Saturday, July 13, 2024, in Sebastopol. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Brewsters Beer Garden in Petaluma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Brewsters Beer Garden in Petaluma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Petaluma

Brewsters Beer Garden

Everyone’s welcome (including your pup) at this indoor-outdoor destination. Excellent barbecue and burgers, mostly California-made beers on tap and cocktails. Live music can get a little loud if you’re trying to converse, but after a few beers, who cares? Shade Score: 7/10. 229 N. Water St., Petaluma, 707-981-8330, brewstersbeergarden.com

Healdsburg
Outdoor seating at Acorn Cafe in Healdsburg
Outdoor seating at Acorn Cafe in Healdsburg. (Acorn Cafe)

Acorn Cafe

The former Oakville Grocery has plenty of patio seating, complete with a cozy fireplace for chilly mornings. It’s great for well-behaved dogs and kids, or even not-so-well-behaved adults. I love their over-the-top takes on breakfast, brunch and lunch. The lineup includes tiramisu French toast, a brown butter hollandaise Benedict and quite possibly the world’s most inspired fried chicken sandwich. A tasty low- and no-alcohol cocktail menu and an inspired wine list create a Sunday brunch vibe even on weekday mornings. Shade score: 7/10. 124 Matheson St., Healdsburg, acornhealdsburg.com

The Rooftop at Harmon Guest House

Take in views of Fitch Mountain, the Mayacamas range and downtown Healdsburg while you nosh on small bites and casual dishes. Full bar, plus some excellent wines. Shade score: 6/10. 227 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-922-5442, harmonguesthouse.com

The Rooftop Bar at Harmon Guest House in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of Harmon Guest House)
The Rooftop Bar at Harmon Guest House in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of Harmon Guest House)
The Olive Terrace at Montage Healdsburg's Hazel Hill restaurant. (Christian Horan Photography)
The Olive Terrace at Montage Healdsburg’s Hazel Hill restaurant. (Christian Horan Photography)

Olive Terrace at Montage Resort

Perched high above the Alexander Valley, the Olive Terrace at Montage’s Hazel Hill restaurant overlooks vineyards and hundreds of acres of open landscape. It also comes with cozy rocking chairs and fire pits. The menus offer both small bites and hearty dishes. Order craft cocktails at the adjacent Scout Field Bar. Shade score: 6/10. 100 Montage Way, Healdsburg, montagehotels.com/healdsburg

Outdoor dining at Roof 106 at The Matheson in Healdsburg. (Deb Wilson)
Outdoor dining at Roof 106 at The Matheson in Healdsburg. (Deb Wilson)

Roof 106

Chef Dustin Valette’s ambitious venture is a multistory building with The Matheson restaurant on the ground level, a mezzanine overlooking the restaurant for private events and a rooftop lounge, Roof 106. The rooftop lounge has a more casual indoor-outdoor setting with craft cocktails, small plates and seasonal flatbreads from a custom 3,800-pound wood-fired Mugnaini oven. Shade Score: 8/10. 106 Matheson St., Healdsburg, 707-723-1106, thematheson.com

Bravas Bar de Tapas

“Jamon In” reads the neon arrow pointing to the patio that Healdsburgers flock to every summer. Sangria, paella, Spanish tapas and plenty of gossip are what you’ll find at this popular watering hole and restaurant. Shade score: 7/10. 420 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-433-7700, starkrestaurants.com

Outdoor dining area at Bravas Bar de Tapas
Outdoor dining area at Bravas Bar de Tapas in Healdsburg. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
The dog-friendly patio is a hangout spot for locals at the Healdsburg Bar & Grill Thursday, Jan. 22, 2026 in downtown Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
The dog-friendly patio is a hangout spot for locals at Healdsburg Bar & Grill Thursday, Jan. 22, 2026 in downtown Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Healdsburg Bar & Grill

Known to locals as HBG, this buzzing American eatery serves up comfort classics like macaroni and cheese, grilled fish tacos, fried chicken and the classic HBG burger. The fenced patio offers space for kids to roam. Don’t miss the Japanese tater tots! Shade score: 7/10. 245 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-433-3333, healdsburgbarandgrill.com

Occidental

Altamont General Store

The outdoor space is the perfect addition to this eclectic café and market. Umbrella-covered tables plus a grassy knoll for cartwheels on cool summer evenings. Shade score: 5/10. 3703 Main St., Occidental, 707-874-6053, altamontgeneralstore.com

Geyserville
The outdoor patio at Catelli’s in Geyserville.
The outdoor patio at Catelli’s in Geyserville. (Catelli’s)

Catelli’s

Lasagna with paper-thin layers of pasta and a tried-and-true meat sauce is a signature dish worth the trip north to this Italian cornerstone. Chef Domenica Catelli is one of Sonoma County’s bright lights, committed to using the best local ingredients. The expansive outdoor area with black and white tiles is iconic — and one of the best event spaces in Sonoma County. Shade score: 6/10. 21047 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707-857-3471, mycatellis.com

Diavola

You’ll swear you’re in Italy at this temple of charcuterie, wood-fired pizza and unmatched pasta entrées. The cheeky hanging laundry that lines the walkway to the back patio completes the experience. Shade score: 9/10. 21021 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707-814-0111, diavolapizzeria.com

Sonoma Coast
Outdoor dining at Fishetarian
People dine on fresh seafood at Fishetarian in Bodega Bay. (Kim Carroll)

Fishetarian

This is as about as close as it gets to eating on the water. Though it’s less than fancy and you’ll get a snoot full of low tide from time to time, the casual picnic tables and chill vibe make it a fave. Shade score 3/10. 599 Highway 1 S. at Lucas Wharf, Bodega Bay, 707-875-9092, fishetarianfishmarket.com

Fisherman’s Cove

This no-nonsense family-owned seafood shack and fishing-marine supply store specializes in fresh local oysters harvested from Tomales Bay. The crab sandwich rivals nearby Spud Point. Shade score: 4/10. 1850 Bay Flat Road, Bodega Bay, 707-377-4238, fishermanscovebodegabay.com

Rocker’s Roadhouse

There’s often live music and dancing on the large back patio of this funky eatery and saloon in the historic Valley Ford Hotel. A mix of local oysters and Southern-influenced comfort foods using local ingredients make this a top stop. Shade score: 8/10. 14415 Highway 1, Valley Ford, 707-876-1983, rockeroysterfellers.com

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

These Sonoma County Brewers Prove Artisan Seltzers Haven’t Lost Their Sparkle

Old Caz Beer in Rohnert Park produces a variety of seltzers to appeal to non-beer drinkers. (Eileen Roche)

We get it: Not everyone loves beer. But that doesn’t mean you have to miss out on the fun at local breweries. Alongside their traditional offerings, many Sonoma County brewers craft their own hard seltzers.

While sales of mass-produced brands have been declining for the last few years, artisan seltzers haven’t lost their sparkle.

Justin Bosch, head brewer at Parliament Brewing in Rohnert Park, says he started making them two years ago in response to customer demand. At first, he wasn’t quite sure what he was doing.

Brothers Justin, left, and Adam Bosch are expanding their Parliament Brewing Company production facility area in Rohnert Park on Wednesday, February 11, 2026. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
Brothers Justin, left, and Adam Bosch are expanding their Parliament Brewing Company production facility area in Rohnert Park on Wednesday, Feb. 11, 2026. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)

“The challenge was to learn and master an entire new beverage from scratch,” he says. “We did a lot of trials, and, as always with a completely new thing, we dumped a lot.”

To create the seltzers, Bosch starts with a neutral alcohol base, which is filtered and carbonated. Then, he adds natural flavors like Cara Cara orange and cantaloupe.

Although seltzer isn’t his drink of choice, Bosch says he enjoys making them. “It’s a fun change-up from the process of creating beer, and it keeps us sharp.”

Like Parliament, Old Caz Beer added a lineup of seltzers as a way to welcome people who don’t drink beer.

“Our slogan is ‘Everyone’s Invited,’” says general manager Rob Saccuzzo. “It’s just about reinforcing the fact that we care about what people want.”

Their top-selling seltzer is the bright red Surly Temple.

“We like to give people options,” Saccuzzo says, “and have fun doing it.”

Old Caz Beer in Rohnert Park produces a variety of seltzers to appeal to non-beer drinkers.
Old Caz Beer in Rohnert Park produces a variety of seltzers to appeal to non-beer drinkers. (Eileen Roche)
Three to Try

Parliament Brewing

Cara Cara Passionfruit / 4.6% ABV

Parliament likes its seltzers on the dry and crisp side, and this one delivers. Its subtle flavors of real orange and passionfruit might just win over die-hard beer fans to the seltzer camp.

5865 Labath Ave., Unit 9, Rohnert Park. parliamentbrewing.com

Crooked Goat Brewing

Office Party Cranberry Pomegranate / 5% Abv

Fresh and fruity with a touch of tartness, this one is tasty-but-sneaky. Packing lots of pomegranate and cranberry flavor, the seltzer’s alcohol profile is so under-the-radar you might mistake this for an NA version.

110 Howard St., Petaluma. crookedgoatbrewing.com

Old Caz Beer

Cosmo Imperial Hard Seltzer / 8% ABV

The brewery unapologetically crafts its seltzers on the sweeter side—and with beer-like alcohol levels. The Cosmo gets its name from the famous cocktail, and its pink color and orange flavor fit the profile.

Somo Village, 1500 Valley House Drive, Suite 110, Rohnert Park. oldcaz.com

This roundup is from our Ultimate Guide to Sonoma County’s Beer Scene, originally published in the March/April 2026 issue of Sonoma Magazine.

Forestville’s Farmhouse Inn Restaurant Changes Direction

The Restaurant at Farmhouse Inn dining room in Forestville. (Farmhouse Inn)

Following its acquisition by Bill Foley’s Foley Entertainment Group, the Farmhouse Inn in Forestville has moved away from the Michelin-starred format that defined it under chef Steve Litke and, later, Craig Wilmer.

In its place is a more casual, though still upscale, à la carte restaurant.

The revised menu includes dishes such as burrata with greens, Caesar salad, grilled broccolini with prosciutto, steak with pommes purée and lobster butter, and roasted chicken and salmon.

Chef Julio Aguilera will be the new chef at the Farmhouse Inn in Forestville.
Chef Julio Aguilera will be the new chef at the Farmhouse Inn in Forestville. (Farmhouse Inn)

Chef Julio Aguilera will lead the kitchen.

Farmhouse Inn, 7871 River Road, Forestville, 707-887-3300, farmhouseinn.com

2026 Artisan Cheese Festival Returns March 22

A festival attendee dipping into Truffle Tremor, a soft-ripen goat milk cheese during the 11th annual California Artisan Cheese Festival held at the Sheraton Sonoma County in Petaluma Sunday. March 26, 2017. (Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)

Aging like a fine cheddar, Santa Rosa’s Artisan Cheese Festival turns 20 this year, adding even more depth and flavor to the annual celebration of all things dairy.

The event draws artisan cheesemakers from Northern California and their fans for a weekend of seminars, farm tours and tastings.

The main event is the Artisan Marketplace, noon to 4 p.m. Sunday, March 22, at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds. The showcase features 20 artisan cheesemakers and 80 specialty food and beverage producers offering plenty to pair with cheese.

Artisan Cheese Festival
Jennifer Anakar, left, and Cindy Kennedy working the Cowgirl Creamery booth during the 11th annual California Artisan Cheese Festival held at the Sheraton Sonoma County in Petaluma Sunday. March 26, 2017. (Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)
Artisan Cheese Festival
Gerard Tuck, far right, with his wife Susan Tuck of Chevoo during the 11th annual California Artisan Cheese Festival held at the Sheraton Sonoma County in Petaluma Sunday. March 26, 2017. (Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)
Loch Leiser, 4, of Davis, California near a sampling of cheeses from Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company during the 11th annual California Artisan Cheese Festival held at the Sheraton Sonoma County in Petaluma Sunday. March 26, 2017. (Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)
Loch Leiser, 4, of Davis, California near a sampling of cheeses from Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company during the 11th annual California Artisan Cheese Festival held at the Sheraton Sonoma County in Petaluma Sunday. March 26, 2017. (Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)

Local cheesemakers include Achadinha Cheese Co., Cowgirl Creamery, Marin French Cheese Co., Nicasio Valley Cheese Co., Valley Ford Cheese and Creamery, Pennyroyal Farm and Wm. Cofield Cheesemakers. A full list of participants is available online.

Start the day early with Bubbles + Bites, a VIP tasting of cheeses paired with sparkling wine and nibbles. The $145 ticket includes early entry to the marketplace at 11 a.m.

A limited number of tickets remain for Saturday’s seminars, including a cheese-and-beer pairing with author Janet Fletcher and a hands-on charcuterie board class.

Tickets are available at artisancheesefestival.com.

Former French Garden Restaurant Reopening in Sebastopol

Sebastopol restaurant
Owners Bob Simontacchi and Brandon Parkhurst have closed Sebastopols’s Gravenstein Grill and Sonoma Burger Tuesday, December 19, 2023. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Sebastopol’s former French Garden, which later became Gravenstein Grill (8050 Bodega Ave.) before closing in December 2023, is slated to reopen later this spring — as Mansoor — according to its new owner, Matt Sadati.

Sadati describes the restaurant as a “flambé house,” centered on dishes finished tableside with fire, among them bananas Foster, crêpes Suzette and saganaki, a Greek cheese dish.

“I want to bring something that is missing to Sebastopol,” said Sadati, a Walnut Creek-based developer who has operated several Bay Area restaurants. The restaurant’s tagline, he said, is “where fire meets soul.”

The kitchen will be led by Zack Ghidotti, whose experience includes restaurants in Sonoma County, Tucson, Arizona, and Asheville, North Carolina.

Local Chefs Breathe New Life Into Former Hazel Space in Occidental

Hazel restaurant Thursday, July 10, 2025 celebrating 10 years in Occidental. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

The longtime Occidental space that housed Hazel restaurant (3782 Bohemian Highway) is set to reopen this spring as a white-tablecloth destination under chef James Millar. The unexpected pairing: Millar, formerly chef de cuisine at the upscale Violetto in Napa Valley, has been tapped by Todd and Erica Kniess, the owners of the fast-growing Acme Burger chain.

“This is a passion project,” said Erica Kniess of the restaurant, which departs sharply from the couple’s burger-focused business. The Kniesses do not plan to oversee daily operations; instead, they remain focused on their five existing fast-casual locations, with additional expansion in Sonoma County under consideration.

Todd Kniess is part of a broader shift among classically trained chefs moving from fine dining into more casual formats. Since opening the original Acme Burger in Cotati in 2019, the couple has expanded to Santa Rosa and Petaluma, building a menu around a $7.65 single burger with optional additions like Point Reyes blue cheese, truffle butter and caramelized onions.

The dining room at Hazel restaurant Thursday, July 10, 2025, in Occidental. The space will reopen under chef James Millar as Bohemian Bistro this spring.
The dining room at Hazel restaurant Thursday, July 10, 2025, in Occidental. The space will reopen under chef James Millar as Bohemian Bistro this spring. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Millar and his wife, Breckin VanRaalte, will lead the new venture, Bohemian Bistro, which will offer prix-fixe menus rooted in French technique with global influences. Current plans include five- and seven-course menus served Thursday through Sunday evenings, along with a Wednesday “locals night” featuring more affordable à la carte options.

Additional details are expected in the coming weeks.