The court is reset for a new game during bocce league play at Campo Fina restaurant in Healdsburg, California on Thursday, July 14, 2016. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
When the funeral parade for Healdsburg’s Campo Fina restaurant marched past Jonny Barr last October, the former SingleThread general manager instantly knew he had to revive it.
Long considered part of the town’s tight-knit social scene, the casual Italian restaurant was an after-work hangout for restaurant workers, winemakers and locals.
Worried that Chef Ari Rosen’s shuttered space at 330 Healdsburg Ave. would languish like many other closed restaurants throughout Sonoma County, Barr quickly raised capital to take over the lease last December.
After some spring remodeling, he hopes to reopen in May as Molti Amici — roughly translated from Italian as “many friends.”
“When Campo closed, something clicked, and I knew I had to bring it back,’’ Barr said. “I needed to make sure the space went to a restaurateur who really cared about our community. I want to bring new life to the space, to pay respect to what was, and to embrace what can be.”
As the new owner, he plans to bring back the wood-fired pizzas, pasta and fiercely competitive games of bocce on the outdoor patio, but most importantly, the sense of kinship Rosen fostered at the restaurant.
“Campo Fina sat at the center of town, and everyone would go there for lunch and dinner,” he said. “Every time you were there, you’d walk past three or four tables of people you knew. It would take 15 minutes to get to your table because you would get caught up in conversation.”
When Rosen closed the restaurant Oct. 1, he cited the space’s rent doubling, a labor shortage and a lack of housing for restaurant staff.
“We are aware of the challenges that our industry faces, be it high rent or lack of workforce, and we’re embracing the challenge,” Barr said.
Barr has hired his former SingleThread co-workers, Sean McGaughey and Melissa Yanc, to anchor the kitchen as co-executive chefs. The couple owns the buzzy Quail & Condor Bakery and Troubadour Bread. McGaughey also has a French dinner program several nights a week called Le Diner.
“The whole thing was a leap of faith,” Barr said.
The trio joins several other SingleThread alums who have gone on from the Michelin-starred restaurant to other culinary projects.
Barr is quick to point out that the restaurant won’t be a grab for Michelin stars. He hopes to keep the menu simple and seasonal, focusing on the community.
Barr, who is also a sommelier, will curate the wine program. The 115-seat Molti Amici will also have a full bar.
“It just means the world to me to bring the space back for so many people who cherish it. I shot for the moon,” he said.
Margherita, the queen of pizzas with sauce of fresh tomatoes, melted mozzarella cheese with fresh basil and EVOO from L’Oro di Napoli in downtown Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Though the pizza in your freezer may be ancestrally related to Neapolitan pizza, it’s a cousin more distant than the moon.
Making more than just a pie, the great Pizzaiuoli (pizza bakers) of Naples are considered as critical to humanity as Indian yoga, the Great Barrier Reef or the Galápagos Islands, according to UNESCO.
But you don’t have to travel 6,000 miles for a taste. Santa Rosa has its own Neapolitan Pizzaiuolo trained in the generations-old traditions — and he’s making some of the best pizza this side of the Atlantic.
L’oro di Napoli restaurant opened quietly in fall 2022 at the former La Vera Pizza restaurant in downtown Santa Rosa, offering up a carefully curated selection of the thin-bottom, dark-spotted, puffy-crust pizzas.
I’m embarrassed to say that last fall I tried one, and it was good. However, the delivery driver didn’t get it to my door as hot and delicious as I’d like, and it subsequently fell off the radar.
The enormous Lasagna with a Stagionale salad of arugula, roasted butternut squash puree, sliced almonds., topped with pecorino cheese, in an orange mustard and Extra Virgin Olive Oil dressing from L’oro di Napoli in downtown Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)Funghetto Tartufato with melted Scamorza affumicata over sautéed oyster mushrooms topped with parmigiana reggiano and truffle oil from L’oro di Napoli in downtown Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Foodie social media channels recently crowed about the restaurant’s buzzy homemade lasagna, leading me to see what all the hubbub was about. Turns out I failed to understand Neapolitan pizza entirely the first time.
By a mile.
The historic galley-like restaurant that served up pizza and pasta for more than 40 years still has its exposed brick walls, outdoor patio and upstairs dining area. But that’s where the similarities end.
Pizzaiuolo Domenico De Angelis and co-owner Roberto Sbaraglia have transformed the space into a Naples street scene complete with second-story balconies hung with laundry and traditional food baskets lowered down by nonnas.
Also new is a domed pizza oven sitting center stage with De Angelis hand-pulling dough and monitoring the Italian-made wood-fire stove that reaches nearly 1,000 degrees. It’s a fascinating dance to watch the chef’s fluid moves as he creates platter-sized pizzas in 90 seconds.
Sharing a Pizza Rustica with Parmigiano cream sauce, topped with roasted potatoes, smoked provolone, Italian sausage and EVO in the 4th Street window seat at L’oro di Napoli in downtown Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)A balcony designed by L’oro di Napoli owner Domenico de Angelis in downtown Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Unlike American pizzas that are, literally, a pale facsimile of those made in Naples, De Angelis’ crust is dotted with what’s referred to as leopard spots where the dough has been charred (no, not burned; it’s supposed to be that way).
A pillowy halo around the edges called the cornicione holds in the restrained toppings of tomato sauce, cheese, olive oil, fresh basil and maybe a few anchovies, spicy sopressata, sausage or olives.
Never pepperoni (that’s an American thing), piles of cheese or, heaven forbid, pineapple. The paper-thin bottom of the pizza would simply collapse from the weight and shame of it all.
“The dough here is too heavy,” said De Angelis in a thick Italian accent. His dough proofs for 24 hours vs. three to four at American chain pizzerias. De Angelis then pops the soft dough and toppings into the tiled oven with a long-handled wooden paddle to puff and cook atop a stone from Mount Vesuvius, a volcano that shadows his hometown of Naples.
The oven took 20 days of careful monitoring to temper the stone. Left unattended, it would have to be seasoned again for several weeks.
He’s rightly proud of his pizzas, and there’s just one thing De Angelis asks — skip the ranch dressing.
“They ask me for ranch,” he said, “and I say, ‘You’re gonna kill my pizza.’”
Best bets
More than 85% of L’oro di Napoli’s ingredients come directly from Italy, including the highly digestible flour, sun-ripened tomatoes, olive oil and cheese.
You’ll notice the difference in both taste and the lightness of the pizzas. Lighter styles of pizza like the Marinara or Margherita can easily serve one at a sitting.
Pizzas range from $18 to $24 each, but the simple Quattro Formaggi with mozzarella, Parmesan, Gorgonzola and fontina is especially good.
Lasagna, $25: Easily enough for two to four people, it’s six layers of beef Bolognese, béchamel, tomato sauce and Parmesan cheese. It’s the best nonna-style lasagna you’ll ever eat.
Polpette della Nonna, $12: These golf ball-sized meatballs are terrific, but the simple marinara sauce astounds. San Marzano tomatoes aren’t too acidic, resulting in a smooth, perfectly balanced bite.
Also great: The restaurant sometimes has other specials, depending on the day. Take a chance, because they’re always good.
Tip: If you do order their pizzas for delivery, four minutes in the oven on broil (keep an eye on it) should restore it to new.
L’oro di Napoli is at 629 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-293-9540, lorodinapolisr.com.
Bagels from Ethel’s Delicatessen in Petaluma. (Courtesy of Ethel’s Bagels)
Ethel’s Bagels, a pandemic pop-up that’s become a top purveyor of Bay Area bagels, plans to open their Petaluma bakery in mid-April after lengthy renovations.
The family-run business took over the former April Pantry space at 1000 Clegg Court last March. They plan to sell organic bagels along with a delicatessen menu including Reuben sandwiches, classic lox, breads such as New York rye, braided challah, babka, rugelach and other traditional Jewish sweets.
Bagels from Ethel’s Bagels in Petaluma. (Ethel’s Bagels)
But what we dream of is their cream cheese schmears, like smoked lox and black garlic sherry.
If you need a bagel (or Reuben) fix sooner, Ethel’s delivers to selected locations in Sonoma and Marin counties and frequently has pops-up at local farm markets. For more details, go to ethelsbagels.com.
Alisse Cottle, left, and Jessica Borrayo of Brew Coffee and Beer House. (Loren Hanson Photography)
Downtown Santa Rosa coffeehouse Brew plans to hold a soft opening for its new Forestville location on Monday, April 3.
Located in the former Backyard restaurant spot, the new outpost, the second coffeehouse for Brew, will serve the same full food and drink menu as at the Santa Rosa store, including 18 taps with rotating selections of craft beer, cider and wine.
Avocado toast at Brew in Santa Rosa. (Shana Bull)
Alisse Cottle and Jessica Borrayo opened the humble coffeehouse, with its recognizable rainbow crosswalk and LGBTQ+ flag, in 2015, and it’s become a beacon for local artists and the queer community.
The new Brew will host rotating pop-up dinners, too. The first will be on Thursday, April 6, with Second Staff’s Rage Cage fried chicken dinner. The new location will be open from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily. 6566 Front St., Forestville, brewcoffeeandbeer.com. The Santa Rosa location is at 555 Healdsburg Ave., Santa Rosa.
Additional Sonoma County luxury establishments that were recommended by Forbes include Farmhouse Inn (pictured) and Farmhouse Inn Restaurant in Forestville and Hotel Les Mars in Healdsburg. (Farmhouse Inn)
Spring is finally here and hotel properties in Sonoma County are ready to celebrate. From spring break getaways for parents to mocktails with a view, here’s what’s new on the local hotel scene. Click through the above gallery for a peek at the properties.
A new hotel package
Who says spring break is just for kids? Forestville’s Farmhouse Inn is offering an incentive for parents to get away and relax. Now through August, get 10% off the best available room rate, 20% off spa treatments at the onsite Wellness Barn and a $100 Farmstand food and beverage credit. Book online or give the property a call.
Breakfast at Farmhouse Inn’s Farmstand in Forestville. (Aubrie Pick)
Dinner with a winemaker
Sit down to dinner with some of Sonoma and Napa’s best-known winemakers at the Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn and Spa. The 2023 Winemaker Dinner Series by Santé kicks off April 26 with Convene founder Dan Kosta. Held once a month through September, the event series also features local winemakers Michael Sebastiani of Highway 12 Winery (May 31) and Alison Smith Story of Smith Story Wines (June 28). Every event kicks off with a sparkling wine reception, followed by a four-course dinner paired with wines.
Mocktails at The Rooftop at Harmon Guest House in Healdsburg. (Harmon Guest House)
Cheers to new mocktails
The menus at two Healdsburg hot spots are sporting a new selection of mocktails.
At Spoonbar at h2Hotel, guests can sip the Cucumber Collins(fresh cucumber, simple syrup, lime, soda water), the Rosemary & Grapefruit (rosemary infused syrup, grapefruit, lemon) and the Cinnamon & Honey (cinnamon, honey, lemon, hot water).
Nearby, at The Rooftop at Harmon Guest House, selections include the Rosemary Citrus Spritz, (grapefruit juice, house rosemary syrup, soda water) and the Bee.(lime juice, mint tea, honey, ginger beer). The Rooftop is also pouring an adaptogen cocktail, containing medicinal plants and herbs that reportedly boosts the mood and support relaxation – called The Ultra-Magenta. It’s made with La Luna Mezcal, Sporgy Blue Dream Tea and lemon juice.
In addition to its five-star rating of the Montage Resort, Forbes also highlighted the Montage Spa and the resort’s restaurant Hazel Hill with their very own four-star ratings. (Christian Horan Photography)
If you’re headed to Sonoma County for a vacation (or staycation), top local hotels and resorts house Michelin-starred restaurants, casual cafes and bistros worth staying in for. Click through the above gallery for some of the very best bets for hotel restaurants in Sonoma County.
Editor’s Note: This list only includes hotel restaurants that are open to the public. Room prices may vary greatly; prices listed here are a snapshot of current rates found online.
I’ve spent months trying to find the perfect Philly cheesesteak in Sonoma County. While I haven’t found the real deal yet, there are some freaking great local takes. Here are my favorite contenders to enjoy on National Cheesesteak Day (March 24) — or any day of the year, really. If I missed one, let me know in the comments. Click through the above gallery for a tasty preview.
Streetside Asian Grill: This Asian-fusion food truck may seem an unlikely place to find the best cheesesteak in Sonoma County (and the closest thing to the Philly version around). The secret to their success is keeping it simple with crispy bits of steak, grilled onions, bell pepper, white American cheese and mayo on an Amoroso Baking Co. roll (from Philly). The cheesesteak isn’t always on the menu; keep an eye on their Instagram page for details and locations: instagram.com/streetsideasiangrill.
Canevari’s Italian Cheesesteak: Available on Fridays only, this is the Italian Stallion of cheesesteaks — big and beefy with a nice gooey center. Pick up some fresh cannoli while you’re there. 695 Lewis Road, Santa Rosa, 707-545-6941, canevarisdeli.com.
Flavor Burger’s Philly Sandwich: Flavor Burger’s Philly Sandwich features chicken or beef with Jack cheese, grilled peppers and onions on a French roll. It’s a little more Cali than Philly, but tasty nonetheless. 6560 Hembree Lane, Suite 178, Windsor, 707-836-4096, flavorburgercafe.com.
Ike’s Hollywould’s SF Cheesesteak: The Hollywould’s SF Cheesesteak comes with steak, mushrooms, Provolone cheese, lettuce, tomatoes and Ike’s signature dirty sauce (garlic aioli). Prepare to be stuffed silly — Ike’s is always a belly buster. 1780 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-293-9814, ikessandwich.com.
Charleys’ Steak Philly: Charleys’ Steak Philly is a solid order with provolone instead of American cheese. Plus, you can get it delivered. Order online at charleys.com and get $2 off during National Cheesesteak Month. 1071 Santa Rosa Plaza, Suite 2104, 707-545-7596, charleys.com
The Cheese Steak Shop: The Cheese Steak Shop’s sando comes with all the right ingredients: sweet peppers, provolone and steak on a toasty Amoroso bun. 401 Kenilworth Drive, Petaluma, 707-763-4900, cheesesteakshop.com
Short rib poutine at Down to Earth Cafe in Cotati. (Heather Irwin / Sonoma Magazine)
It’s heartbreaking to announce that chef Chris Ball’s Cotati restaurant, Down to Earth Cafe, closed on March 19.
The cafe opened in 2017, offering spot-on takes on comfort food, including short rib poutine, crispy fish and chips, shells and cheese with bacon and buttery butterscotch pudding. The former fine-dining chef opened a second location in Windsor during the COVID-19 pandemic, but it never gained traction.
Like other local restaurateurs who struggled through the pandemic, Ball held out hope that a return to in-person dining would revive the restaurant industry. He said ongoing labor struggles and a sharp increase in food prices ultimately forced his hand.
“Now is the time to go,” Ball said. “Bittersweet for sure, but I don’t think the situation for restaurants like us will get better as time goes on. We care too much about what we make and aren’t big enough or in the right location for it to continue to work with the extreme increases in food, labor and overhead expenses.”
Greg Brummet and his dog Bungee wait patiently for a customer to pull up and buy smoked salmon at Brummet’s usual spot on Highway 12 just west of Sebastopol, Friday, March 17, 2023. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat) 2023
Greg Brummet may not be a familiar name in Sonoma County, but chances are locals have seen his hand-painted pipe-smoking fish sign and mobile fish “hut.”
For 40 years, Brummet has operated Samnzar Smoke Shack, a one-man smoked fish operation, along the roadside in west Sonoma County. Each weekend, he pulls his covered pickup into a small turnout along Bodega Highway, among the old apple orchards. From this humble location, he sells salmon to longtime customers and curious passersby.
Since the pandemic, though, he’s struggled to keep going, he said. Recently, a friend set up a GoFundMe page to help pay the rent at the location where Brummet fillets, smokes and packages his salmon — increasingly expensive salmon.
“At $9 a pound, I got myself into debt. I’m recovering, but I need anything to keep it afloat. I don’t need a six-pack of beer. This money will go for something related to the business,” he said.
At 79 years old, Brummet doesn’t mince words.
“COVID knocked the hell out of things. After two years of that, I’m bouncing back a little bit, and it’s warmed me up to see people being together again,” he said.
Like many who came to Sonoma County in the early 1970s, when it was primarily a sleepy agricultural community, Brummet loved the simple lifestyle and characters who made the west county their home. For decades, he took classes at Santa Rosa Junior College and sold his smoked fish along the Russian River and on Highway one near Goat Rock.
“I just got drawn here, and it was great. At the time, I paid $17 for my fishing license. Now everything costs so much to live here,” he said.
Brummet hopes the GoFundMe for his Samnzar Smoke Shack will help him pay back money he borrowed to keep the business afloat for a little longer.
“After 40 years on the road, it’s wearing thin. But I want to keep doing it until my body gives out. But I’m gonna go down smiling and being generous,” he said.
To contribute to Brummet’s fundraiser, go to bit.ly/3YpZigL.
Lobster mac and cheese from Willi’s Wine Bar in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
There are very particular dishes we all turn to in times of trouble, sadness, sickness, or on just plain crummy days — comfort foods. Most are childhood favorites with simple ingredients and familiar flavors that remind us of home and family. Whether that’s Midwesterner’s hot dish, spicy ramen, a good baguette or holiday tamales, comfort foods are a bit of cheer no matter where we are. Click through the above gallery for a few of our favorites in Sonoma County.
