A plate of tacos includes four types: al pastor, veggie, fish, and shrimp, at El Roy’s Express Mex truck No. 2 on Santa Rosa Avenue in Santa Rosa, on Thursday, July 11, 2024. (Darryl Bush / For The Press Democrat)
Whether as fuel for the crushpad, for a hike or for harvesting in the garden, tacos are a classic. Narrowing down a list of Sonoma’s best tacos feels like a near impossibility, but here’s a great first try for the warmth of early fall.
These handmade blue corn tortillas — topped with fresh rock cod, cochinita pibil with pickled onions, or al pastor and salsa verde — are at the top of my list. Add a side of guacamole with serrano chiles and crispy raspadas or brothy Rancho Gordo beans. 121 Kentucky St., Petaluma. 707-774-6130, quiotemx.com
Short Rib Barbacoa Tacos from Quiote in downtown Petaluma, Friday, Sept. 8, 2023. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Best Fish Tacos
El Molino Central
Beer-battered fish tacos with salsa de arbol and avocado-lime mayo are the best around. Crispy beef brisket tacos with sour cream, avocado and pickled escabeche are also a can’t-miss. 11 Central Ave., Sonoma. 707-939-1010, elmolinocentral.com
Community Spirit
Galvan’s Eatery
Seeing the long lines for these brothers-owned food trucks is always heartwarming because they truly believe in the food they’re sharing with the community. My favorites are the messy, gooey quesabirria and crispy carnitas. Weekly stops listed online at Instagram.com/galvanseatery.
Omar Galvan delivers an order from the pickup window at Galvan’s Eatery in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)Potato tacos at Sonoma Eats restaurant in Sonoma. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
Oaxacan Style
Sonoma Eats
Chef Efrain Balmes makes the best Oaxacan food in Sonoma County, infused with his heart and soul. Best bets include Baja fish tacos and potato tacos. 18133 Sonoma Highway, Sonoma. 707-343-1141, sonoma-eats.com
All Together
Mitote Food Park
You’ll be hard pressed to find a bad taco at this Roseland collective. Favorites include quesabirria from Gio y Los Magos, mushroom tacos from Lucha Sabina, huitlacoche at Antojitos Victoria and cochinita pibil at Mami’s Panuchos. 100 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa. mitotefoodpark.com
Jose Cazares, right, owner of the Gio y Los Magos Mexican Grill truck holding a plate of birria tacos at Mitote Food Park on Sebastopol Road in the Roseland neighborhood of Santa Rosa, on Thursday, July 14, 2022. (Erik Castro / For The Press Democrat)A plate of tacos includes four types: shrimp, fish, veggie, and al pastor, at El Roy’s Express Mex truck No. 2 on Santa Rosa Ave., in Santa Rosa, on Thursday, July 11, 2024. (Darryl Bush / For The Press Democrat)
On the Road
El Roy’s
Between their multiple food trucks and a Petaluma brick-and-mortar, these tasty tacos are practically everywhere you need them to be. Convenient and always a good bet on the run. 602 Elsa Drive, Santa Rosa and food trucks in Petaluma and Santa Rosa. eatelroys.com
Street Food Classics
El Fogon
Though not technically a taco, the epic Machete — a forearm-length corn tortilla filled with meat (al pastor!), cheese, sour cream, tomato and cilantro — is a favorite. The focus on Mexican street classics makes this a great lunch stop or casual dinner. 623 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-575-0574, elfogonca.com
Machete dish at El Fogon Taco Shop in Santa Rosa on Friday, April 14, 2023. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)Tacos al Pastor from Cielito Lindo restaurant in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Heavenly Al Pastor
Cielito Lindo
The very best versions of al pastor feature a pineapple atop the rotisserie, dripping sweet juices onto the meat. There are no shortage of local options, both spit-grilled or griddled, but Cielito Lindo is one of the best. 52 Mission Circle, Santa Rosa. Instagram.com/cielitolindosantarosa
The newly remodeled Foppiano Vineyards & Winery tasting room Thursday, September 18, 2025 in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
For nearly six decades, Foppiano Vineyards has been known for its hearty Petite Sirah. Now, with new owners at the helm, the Russian River Valley winery is moving in a fresh direction with an expanded lineup of wines and a modernized tasting room.
The story
Giovanni Foppiano landed in New York from his native Genoa in 1855 and headed to California in search of gold. Striking it rich as a miner didn’t pan out — so to speak — and in 1896, he bought an 80-acre farm south of Healdsburg and became a supplier of bulk wines.
During Prohibition, Foppiano Wine Company pivoted to growing grapes for home winemaking kits. In 1926, the feds raided the farm and famously dumped 100,000 gallons of bootleg wine into a nearby creek. After the Repeal, Louis J. Foppiano — the founder’s grandson — began bottling wines under the Foppiano label. In 1967, as varietal wines gained favor over jug wines, Foppiano introduced its now-iconic Petite Sirah.
There are 40 acres of Petite Sirah vineyards at Foppiano Vineyards in Healdsburg. (Sonoma County Tourism)
Louis J.’s son, Louis M. Foppiano, joined the business in the 1970s and ran the winery for nearly five decades. In 2024, he sold Foppiano Vineyards to Courtney Benham of CMB Wines, which also owns Martin Ray Vineyards & Winery in Santa Rosa and Vina Robles in Paso Robles.
Benham has since embarked on a significant revamp of the Foppiano estate, including the long-neglected production facility, which is now used for aging and storage. (Benham jokes that the wall-sized 24,000-gallon concrete vats are the only things holding up the building.) He’s also replanting the 130-acre estate vineyards to modern spacing and adding varieties such as Vermentino. Forty acres of Petite Sirah, planted in 1970, will remain.
The vibe
After a yearlong makeover, Foppiano’s formerly dark-and-dated tasting room has a bright new look. The compact space now features contemporary sofa and bar seating, with gleaming copper pendant lights overhead. Sliding glass walls open onto a refreshed patio, which includes a pergola for shade and tables overlooking the Petite Sirah vineyard. New landscaping and picnic spots invite visitors to hang out and play lawn games while they sip. Once the permits are approved, the winery will add a kitchen and begin cooking pizzas in its outdoor wood-fired oven. In the meantime, Foppiano offers picnic and charcuterie add-ons from Costeaux French Bakery in Healdsburg.
The newly remodeled Foppiano Vineyards & Winery tasting room Thursday, Sept. 18, 2025, in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)Damy Tamburrino pours wine for locals Dan Procopenko, right, and Rick Haggstrom in the newly remodeled tasting room Thursday, Sept. 18, 2025, at Foppiano Vineyards & Winery in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
On the palate
Foppiano’s signature Petite Sirah is famous for a reason — it’s a very good wine — but at a time when consumer palates are leaning toward lighter, less heavy-handed styles, the winery is expanding its portfolio and putting more focus on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The 2024 Vermentino ($40) is a fun and fresh wine with peachy notes and a crisp finish. The savory 2024 Skin Contact Chardonnay ($40), with its pale salmon color and soft tannic structure, is an interesting twist on your typical California Chardonnay. The 2021 Estate Petite Sirah from the Russian River Valley ($32) has a deep purple color, aromas of toasty oak, and flavors of blue and black fruits. Tastings cost $25-$30.
Beyond the bottle
In these uncertain times, we could all use more silliness and joy. That calls for dogs in Halloween costumes! On Oct. 25, from 2-4:30 p.m., Foppiano will host Yappy-Howl-Oween, with prizes for the best dog and human get-ups, and a special award for the finest human-dog duo. Admission, including one glass of wine, costs $11 for humans and $5 for competing pups. Wine-friendly frankfurters are five bucks each. Event proceeds support the Paws for Love Foundation, an organization that provides care and rescue services for animals in need.
Open from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. Foppiano Vineyards, 12707 Old Redwood Highway, Healdsburg, 707-433-7272, foppiano.com
Tina Caputo is a wine, food, and travel journalist who contributes to Sonoma magazine, SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, Northern California Public Media, KQED, and more. Follow her on Bluesky at @winebroad.bsky.social, view her website at tinacaputo.com, and email her story ideas at tina@caputocontent.com.
Dan Lehrer, a co-owner of Little Apple Treats, has compared horticultural drawings of Sebastopol Gravenstein apples, this one from an orchard in Virginia in 1909, while researching the origins and spread of our beloved local fruit Thursday July 24, 2025. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
You blinked and now the Gravenstein is gone. Already harvested, processed, and celebrated with a glorious town fair, consumed in pies, fritters, ciders, and sauces.
It seems like just the other day banners went up in downtown Sebastopol: “Gravensteins Are Coming.” The annual reminders, hung by Slow Food Russian River revivalists, were quickly replaced by “Gravensteins Are Here” banners.
It’s the reason Luther Burbank once said, “If the Gravenstein could be had throughout the year, no other apple need be grown.”
So it goes with the early ripeners, the messy harbingers of a new season that drop around a third of their fruit before harvest. Their window is short. They don’t last long on the counter. It’s why they never made it as a market fresh apple.
Another way of looking at it: “If an apple were a rainbow, it would be a Gravenstein. It’s there, it’s beautiful, and then it’s gone.” That’s how Sebastopol apple grower Dan Lehrer describes it.
But however fleeting it may be, the Gravenstein is still ours. In Sonoma County, we are very possessive and protective of the Grav. It’s not just the inspiration for the annual Gravenstein Apple Fair, and the namesake of a winding highway and elementary school — it’s a touchstone to another era, well before 1910, when people lined up around the block for the first “Gravenstein Apple Show” under a tent, when our “Grandfather of the Gravenstein” Nathaniel Griffith planted his orchard in 1883 off Laguna Road.
Nathaniel Griffith, the apple farmer who introduced the Gravenstein apple to the Sebastopol area in the late 1800s. (Western Sonoma County Historical Society)The home of Nathaniel Griffith off Laguna Road in Sebastopol. The house was burned and no longer exists. Griffith was an apple farmer who introduced the Gravenstein apple to the Sebastopol area in the 18o0s. (Western Sonoma County Historical Society)
But what if there was another apple out there parading as a Gravenstein? Or maybe a mix-up at birth back in the 17th century, possibly at a royal garden in Denmark. What if there were two very different apples propagating around the world as Gravensteins? It begs the question: Which one is the imposter?
Don’t be alarmed. At this point, it’s only a theory (or scientifically, a hypothesis). One that started in the summer of 2009 as a curious Lehrer strolled the stalls of a Portland farmers market. Whenever he’s traveling, he always checks out the apples for sale.
“There was a guy selling Gravensteins and it was a totally different apple,” he remembers.
Having eaten “thousands” of Gravensteins over the years, Lehrer told the market seller, “That’s not a Gravenstein. And he’s like, ‘Yeah it is.’ I said, ‘No, it’s not.’ And he said, ‘Yeah, it is.’”
So it went, back and forth. Lehrer took a closer look. The most obvious clue was that “it was oblong and very blocky,” he remembers, in contrast to the more squat, round Gravenstein apple that grows in Sonoma County.
It got him thinking. Although apples are known to produce genetic mutations called “sports” and vary some depending on climate and location, why would there be two such distinctly different Gravensteins? Back home at his 22-acre orchard, where he and his wife, Joanne Krueger, make award-winning apple cider vinegar and other delectables as part of their business, Little Apple Treats, Lehrer spread out his collection of antiquarian apple books on the dining room table. A journalism major at UC Berkeley, he loves a good research project.
He flipped through Edward Wickson’s 1926 book “California Fruits and How to Grow Them,” seeing a description of the Gravenstein as “large, rather flattened.” Other books seemed to concur. But in “The Apple Book,” British apple historian Rosanne Sanders describes the Gravenstein as “oblong, well pronounced ribs running from base to apex” and “rather five-crowned at apex.” Looking at an accompanying drawing, Lehrer says, “This was the apple I saw in Portland.”
Dan Lehrer, a co-owner of Little Apple Treats, has collected historical books on apples from around the world and believes there is a second “Nova Scotia” variety of Sonoma County’s much loved Gravenstein Apple, Thursday, July 24, 2025, in Sebastopol. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Slow Food International, the global grassroots organization promoting sustainable local food systems and traditional foods, with chapters all over the world, has added the Gravenstein to its Ark of Taste, a catalog of “endangered heritage foods.” On its website, there are pages devoted to two different strains of Gravensteins — the Nova Scotia Gravenstein and the Sebastopol Gravenstein.
Paula Shatkin and Carole Flaherty, cheerleaders for the Gravenstein at Slow Food Russian River, said they were not aware of the Nova Scotia version, both admitting they were much more interested in raising awareness about the Gravenstein’s steady decline than distinguishing between variations. They’re more worried about Manzana Products Co. pulling up stakes and leaving town next year, taking with it the last large-scale apple processing plant in the region, and bidding a final farewell to the days when Gravenstein was king.
According to Slow Food International, in Nova Scotia the green versions are often called “Old-Fashioned Gravensteins” to distinguish them from newer red strains, sometimes called Banks Gravensteins and Crimson Gravensteins. Aside from color descriptions, Slow Food doesn’t detail other physical characteristics — particularly shape and size — of the two different types of Gravensteins. But Michelle Cortens, fruit tree expert at Perennia Food and Agriculture in Kentville, Nova Scotia, said the Gravensteins typically found in Nova Scotia are “definitely a rounder squat apple and not oblong.”
Dan Lehrer, a co-owner of Little Apple Treats, sees the perfect shape of a Sebastopol Gravenstein apple Thursday July 24, 2025, in a line drawing from the book “American Fruit Culturist,” published in 1849. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
The Gravenstein origin story has meandered over the years, but one of the most cited versions is that it was discovered in the garden of the Duke of Augustenberg’s Grasten (“Gravenstein” in German) Palace in mid-1600s Germany, what is now southern Denmark. One of the earliest known descriptions of the Gravenstein is by German academic Christian C.L. Hirschfeld, who wrote that the apple may have originated in Italy, under the name Ville Blanc.
Hirschfeld also wrote about an avid apple grower on a nearby island, Peter Vothmann, whose son, Hans Peter, apprenticed in the garden at Grasten. In researching the history of the Gravenstein, Darlene Hayes, Sebastopol author of “Apple Tales: Stories from the Orchard,” dug up writings by Nicolai Vothmann, son of Hans Peter, who described how apples in his nursery, descendants from the original Gravenstein estate, had begun to change over the years, possibly due to mutations. “In my garden there are still two mother trees, around 60 years old, which my father threaded and planted himself from the mother trees mentioned earlier in Gravenstein’s garden, the most beautiful fruits in their youth, bright yellow, only a little on the sunny side reddish, ribbed and elongated in shape. Now these patriarchs bear nothing but round fruits, heavily shaded with red, which are also noticeably tougher in their flesh than they were.”
It seems he witnessed the variability that Lehrer saw in Portland — in effect starting with a yellow-green oblong shape, then mutating years later into a rounder, redder sport, something like the red Gravenstein we know today.
So how did both types arrive on the West Coast with one more prominent in Oregon and the other dominant in Sonoma County? Over the years, it has been widely reported by local historians and apple growers that Sonoma County’s Gravenstein likely descended from trees first planted by Russian settlers at Fort Ross as early as 1812. One possible scenario is that after the Gravenstein first sprouted in what is Denmark today, word spread about its sweet-tart flavor as a delicious source for pies and ciders, it began popping up at different markets in Europe — and mutations of the apple took root in different regions. One redder, rounder strain might have migrated eastward into Russia and landed at Fort Ross, where it became the Sebastopol Gravenstein.
Meanwhile, around the same time, another Gravenstein sport from Denmark traveled westward, through England and to the Northeastern United States.
So how did the East Coast or Nova Scotia version, that Lehrer might have seen in Portland, wind up in Oregon? Most likely the Oregon Trail. Jeannie Berg, former owner of Queener Farms in Scio, Oregon, just east of Willamette Valley, shared several pages of research she did at the Oregon Historical Society, showing that pioneer farmer Henderson Luelling brought Gravenstein trees to Oregon in his “Traveling Nursery” in 1847.
Stan Devoto checks a Graventstein apple tree for ripeness in his Sebastopol orchard Tuesday, Aug. 5, 2025, where he planted over 100 varieties in nearly 50 years of farming. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Sebastopol apple grower Stan Devoto has seen variations beyond what he calls “the standard Gravenstein,” which is green with red stripes, and the red Gravenstein, with a more solid red color, often ripening a little earlier. There’s the Rosebrook Gravenstein (that looks like the standard but with more stripes), ripening a week later than both. Devoto also has a friend who grafted a sport that ripens later in September and named it the Bonner Gravenstein.
But more interesting is a late-ripening Gravenstein that his neighbor Randy Roberts grows. It looks almost like a red delicious with points at the bottom, he says. “And gosh darn, it tastes like a Jonagold.”
Conversations with Oregon growers confirm the wide range of Gravenstein variability in the Pacific Northwest. “The vast majority of our Gravensteins end up having more of a squarish shape to them, with kind of straight sides and a little bit taller,” says Christina Fordyce, current owner of Queener Farms. They call the green ones “traditional Gravensteins.” They’re “a little more tart” and ripen just before the red Gravensteins.
“It wouldn’t surprise me at all if some of the Gravensteins that people have up here in the Pacific Northwest do taste different or look different than the ones that are so famous down in Sonoma, because of climate differences and growing conditions, and the genetic mutations that happen over the decades,” Fordyce says.
Third-generation apple grower Randy Kiyokawa, owner of Kiyokawa Family Orchards in Parkdale, Oregon, says he sells both green and red Gravenstein varieties at farmer’s markets around the state, including several in Portland, possibly where Lehrer first encountered the suspect Gravenstein. Kiyokawa has seen tall ones and smaller round ones. They tend to vary, he says. “Let me know if you find out we don’t have Gravensteins,” he says with a laugh, offering to send a few samples in the mail. “We might have to rename them.”
At this point, DNA fingerprinting might be the only way to solve the mystery. But fully mapping the DNA of a Gravenstein apple is tricky because it’s a triploid variety, which basically means it has three sets of chromosomes, unlike many other diploid apples with two sets of chromosomes like humans, says Rachel Spaeth, a Santa Rosa research horticulturist who studies the genetic makeup of rare fruits.
Her best guess? “I would say the Gravenstein was probably bred in Germany, or somewhere in the middle of Europe, and then it probably went off in two different directions, as somebody got a seedling or a bud sport. And it’s really interesting that it made it around the globe two different ways, and then connected on the West Coast. I think they’re probably two different apples, but maybe they share parentage.”
Graventstein apples are just a week away from harvest Tuesday, Aug. 5, 2025, in Stan Devoto’s Sebastopol orchard. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Fortunately, many Gravensteins throughout the West Coast have already been genetically fingerprinted at the Washington Tree Fruit Genotyping Laboratory, which receives test samples from the public at MyFruitTree.org. Cameron Peace, Washington State University professor of fruit tree genetics, has tested multiple trees from northern California and western Washington and Oregon and he says they all have “the usual Gravenstein DNA profile.”
He has not tested Gravensteins from Nova Scotia, but believes the Sonoma County Gravenstein is a sport commonly known as red Gravenstein. His guess is that the observed differences are “phenotypic differences among sports,” referring to the effects of the environment, like soil and climate, noting that DNA technology can’t differentiate among sports of a cultivar because they produce the same DNA profile.
Digging deeper would likely require whole genome sequencing, which Spaeth says, “would elucidate differences, but the price point difference might be prohibitive.”
In the meantime, “at least people are talking about Gravensteins,” says Carole Flaherty, who tends around 200 apple trees, including several “beautiful red Gravensteins” planted in 1915. She also leads Slow Food Russian River’s Save Our Orchards project. “People need to know what danger our orchards are in.” That applies to all Gravensteins, she says, whether green or red or candy-striped, whether short and squat or tall and “squarish,” whether ribbed with shoulders or no shoulders at all.
But Lehrer remains intrigued, still sleuthing in the archives, looking forward to the next time he spots another bizarro Gravenstein. “The mystery is like a set of Russian nesting dolls,” he says. “Open one and another appears inside.”
Pumpkin spice lattes, iced and hot, from Black Oak Coffee Roasters in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of Black Oak Coffee Roasters)
Whether “pumpkin-spice season” evokes autumnal bliss or exasperated groans, it’s hard to deny the appeal of comforting fall flavors like cinnamon, nutmeg and ginger.
Crafty Sonoma County bakers and baristas are selling a wide assortment of creative pumpkin-infused drinks and treats this season, from quintessential pumpkin spice lattes to imaginative pumpkin scones, cheesecakes and ice cream.
Here are over 25 local spots that are offering delicious pumpkin spice drinks and dishes this season.
Santa Rosa
Pumpkin Spiced Brownie Sundae, made with Chocolate Gooey Brownie ice cream, dark chocolate sauce, whipped cream and chocolate sprinkles in a pumpkin spiced waffle bowl, from Salt & Straw. (Salt & Straw)
Salt & Straw
Santa Rosa’s newest ice cream shop recently launched its Pumpkin Spiced Brownie Sundae alongside a pumpkin-spiced waffle cone just in time for fall. The sundae is made with Chocolate Gooey Brownie ice cream, dark chocolate sauce, whipped cream and chocolate sprinkles in a pumpkin-spiced waffle bowl. The cone was made in partnership with spice company Diaspora Co. 700 Village Court, Santa Rosa, 707-360-6349, saltandstraw.com
Brew Coffee and Beer House
The cozy Brew cafe has brought back its seasonal pumpkin spice latte, a comforting and robust drink embellished with festive latte art. The pumpkin spice syrup is made in-house with fresh ingredients. New at Brew this year is a moist, pumpkin-flavored baked oatmeal. 555 Healdsburg Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-303-7372, brewcoffeeandbeer.com
Criminal Baking Co.
Criminal Baking offers a rich pumpkin cheesecake (available in mini, 6- or 9-inch sizes) made with house-baked pumpkins. 808 Donahue St., Santa Rosa, 707-888-3546, criminalbakingcompany.com
Crooks Coffee
It’s fitting that this Edgar Allan Poe-themed coffee shop always has a festive lineup of fall drinks for spooky season. While its autumn menu has yet to be released, expect to find seasonal favorites like the classic pumpkin spice latte, white pumpkin pie latte and cold brew with pumpkin spice foam. Past fall bites have included pumpkin bread and pumpkin pie scones. 404 Mendocino Ave., Suite C, Santa Rosa, 707-791-3365, shadyraveninc.com
Pumpkin pie chai latte includes spicy chai, pumpkin pie syrup, espresso, milk and is topped with cinnamon, from Crooks Coffee in Santa Rosa. (Mya Constantino)A selection of fall doughnuts from Johnny Doughnuts in Santa Rosa. (Johnny Doughnuts)
Johnny Doughnuts
For fall, Johnny Doughnuts has brought back its fan-favorite pumpkin brown butter cake doughnut, a fluffy spiced pumpkin cake with a brown butter glaze. It’s a perfect coffee companion for chilly fall mornings. The local doughnut chain also has a pumpkin chai and old fashioned pumpkin latte on its menu. 1200 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-308-4836, johnnydoughnuts.com
Blondie’s Bakery Boutique
The cutesy downtown bakery has on its menu a pumpkin pie cupcake, filled with pumpkin mousse and topped with cream cheese frosting and a toasted pumpkin crumble. 404 Mendocino Ave., Suite A, Santa Rosa, 707-843-7335, blondiesbakeryboutique.com
Land and Water Coffee
Seasonal drinks at this locals’ favorite coffee shop include a pumpkin spice latte and pumpkin chai latte. 1301 Cleveland Ave., Suite B, Santa Rosa, 707-527-3725; 621 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-527-3731, landandwater.coffee
Nothing Bundt Cakes
This bakery chain has a lineup of pumpkin spice items available on its menu through Dec. 7, including cakes, bundtlets and bundtinis, all of which can be decorated for holidays and special occasions. 266 Coddingtown Center, Santa Rosa, 707-708-4800, nothingbundtcakes.com
Petaluma
Pumpkin cheesecake from Stellina Pronto in Petaluma. (Stellina Pronto)
Stellina Pronto
Quaint Italian bakery and cafe Stellina Pronto has a whole New York-style pumpkin cheesecake on its regular menu for those who want a taste of fall year-round. Stay tuned for other seasonal treats, like pumpkin ricotta tarts.23 Kentucky St., Petaluma, 707-789-9556, stellinapronto.com
Pink Owl Coffee
Located near the Whole Foods in Petaluma, Pink Owl offers a pumpkin spice latte flavored with pumpkin syrup and “a hint of pumpkin pie dust” on its specials menu. Pumpkin spice syrup can be added to most drinks. 617 E. Washington St., Petaluma, 707-658-2274, pinkowlcoffee.com
Petaluma Pie Company has delicious individual pies. (Petaluma Pie Company)
Petaluma Pie Company
Come autumn, it’s nearly impossible to go wrong with a traditional pumpkin pie. Petaluma Pie Company takes it a step further with its maple pumpkin pie, crafted with organic pumpkin, vanilla, cinnamon, cloves, ginger, brown sugar and maple syrup. 125 Petaluma Blvd. N., Suite B, Petaluma, 707-766-6743, petalumapiecompany.com
Petaluma Brunch Station
This all-day brunch spot has pumpkin pancakes on its menu. Make it a combo with two eggs cooked to order and a side of meat (bacon or sausage). 732 E. Washington St., Petaluma, 707-762-4095, thebrunchstation.com
The Bagel Mill
The Petaluma bagel shop is selling pumpkin spice lattes and chai lattes made with housemade pumpkin spice syrup from local, organic sugar pie pumpkins. There’s also pumpkin-spice cream cheese, sold by the half pint, made with sugar-pie pumpkins, brown sugar and warm fall spices. 212 Western Ave., Petaluma, 707-981-8010, thebagelmill.com
Crumbl
A pumpkin cake cookie is among the specials on this national cookie darling’s fall menu — a warm, fluffy pumpkin-spiced cookie topped with cream cheese frosting and a sprinkle of mini semisweet chocolate chips. 179 N. McDowell, Petaluma, 707-238-2351, crumblcookies.com
Rohnert Park
Squatch’s Gourmet Ice Cream Sandwiches and Coffee
The cafe and ice cream shop is currently offering a pumpkin cheesecake ice cream sandwich, or “Squatch,” made with snickerdoodle cookies and graham crackers. The “Spooky Squatch,” a festive Halloween-themed ice cream sandwich, features pumpkin ice cream between chocolate-chocolate chip cookies and coated in Halloween sprinkles. Squatch’s also offers a rich pumpkin spice latte (available in “big foot” and “little foot” sizes). 1451 Southwest Blvd., Suite 111, Rohnert Park, 707-992-0841, squatchscoffee.com
Sebastopol
Society Bakery and Cafe
For coffee and tea fans alike, this quaint bakery cafe offers both a pumpkin spice latte and a pumpkin chai latte, made with fall spices and housemade pumpkin syrup (available in the fall and winter). These hot drinks pair nicely with the pumpkin maple cake and the often-out-of-stock pumpkin cinnamon roll. Also, 9-inch pumpkin cheesecakes are available in November and December. 2661 Gravenstein Highway S., Sebastopol, 707-861-9665, societybakerycafe.com
Muir’s Tea Room
At Muir’s annual Black Hat Society High Tea, available from Oct. 4 through Oct. 26, find the Harvest Moon Pumpkin Scone, served with housemade lemon curd, clotted “cream” and imported English preserves. Stay tuned for other vegan fall specials like pumpkin cupcakes, pumpkin crinkle cookies, pumpkin pie and pumpkin muffins. 330 S. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-634-6143, muirstearoomandcafe.com
Retrograde Coffee Roasters
The pumpkin spice latte at Retrograde is made with real pumpkin puree, so you know you’re getting an authentic touch of fall produce. It’s pretty much hot pumpkin pie in a cup. There’s also a pumpkin spice cold brew on the menu, sweetened with housemade vanilla syrup and topped with pumpkin spice cold foam. 130 S. Main St., Suite 103, Sebastopol, 707-969-7234, retrograderoasters.com
A pumpkin spice latte from Taylor Lane Organic Coffee in Sebastopol. (Taylor Lane)
Taylor Lane Organic Coffee
The cafe in The Barlow offers pumpkin spice lattes in fall, which pair perfectly with the seasonal pumpkin pecan scones. 6790 McKinley St., Suite 170, Sebastopol, 707-634-7129, taylorlane.com
Patisserie Angelica
The long list of dessert offerings at this Parisian-style bakeshop includes pumpkin pie and a spiced pumpkin cheesecake in a housemade graham cracker crust. 6821 Laguna Park Way, Sebastopol, 707-827-7998, patisserieangelica.com
Screamin’ Mimi’s Ice Cream
The ever-popular Screamin’ Mimi’s makes a pumpkin ice cream and pumpkin-spiced cappuccino ice cream, as well as its seasonal special pumpkin mud pie ice cream, which is like the fan-favorite chocolate Mimi’s Mud, but with pumpkin replacing the espresso ice cream. 6902 Sebastopol Ave., Sebastopol, 707-823-5902, screaminmimisicecream.com
Two Dog Night Creamery
Two Dog Night regularly changes its ice cream flavors with the season. Come October, be sure to find its organic pumpkin ice cream, as well as a pumpkin pie ice cream in November. 6760 McKinley St., Suite 110, Sebastopol, 707-823-9376, twodognightcreamery.com
Coffee & Moore
This Sebastopol coffee shop has a seasonal pumpkin latte, “ghostly” pumpkin latte (with white chocolate) and pumpkin cinnamon cold brew on its menu. Turn your morning cup of Joe into a dessert by making it a pumpkin latte shake. 6761 Sebastopol Ave., Suite 300, Sebastopol, 707-829-6600, coffeenmoore.com
Healdsburg
Pumpkin spice lattes, iced and hot, from Black Oak Coffee Roasters in Healdsburg. (Black Oak Coffee Roasters)
Black Oak Coffee Roasters
The fall menu at Black Oak will be released soon, and it’s sure to include the coffee shop’s highly favored pumpkin spice latte, made with scratch-made pumpkin sauce and fall spices. Also expect a refreshing pumpkin cold brew, lightly sweetened with vanilla and topped with a layer of housemade pumpkin cold foam, as well as other fall treats like spiced pumpkin muffins. 324 Center St., Healdsburg, 866-390-1427, blackoakcoffee.com
Costeaux French Bakery
Costeaux’s menu includes a classic pumpkin pie and a seasonal pumpkin cheesecake in a gingerbread cookie crust. Also, the Costeaux On The Go location in Santa Rosa (2266 Airport Blvd.) is offering an exclusive pumpkin spice latte with vanilla cold foam. 417 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-433-1913, costeaux.com
Quail & Condor Bakery
This New York Times-heralded bakery sells excellent breads and pastries — including some of the best croissants in Sonoma County. Last October, Quail & Condor featured miso-glazed pumpkin muffins on its menu, and they were so popular that we expect to see them again this year (or another equally delectable fall treat, like the former chocolate pumpkin croissant). Also, watch out for fall offerings from French-inspired sister restaurant Troubadour, like brown butter pumpkin financiers. 149 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-473-8254, quailandcondor.com
Dutch Door Donuts
Healdsburg’s new doughnut shop is currently offering a pumpkin spice latte and pumpkin white mocha latte. Order alongside the seasonal spiced apple doughnut or fan-favorite salted brown butter doughnut for a sweet fall treat. 109a Plaza St., Healdsburg, 707-473-8283, dutchdoordonuts.com
Kenwood
Pillowfight Coffee
Named after Kenwood’s historic World Pillow Fighting Championships, Pillowfight Coffee serves locally sourced coffee in addition to teas and matchas. The cafe uses syrups from Sonoma Syrup Company, and come fall, it breaks out the pumpkin syrup made with natural pumpkin puree, ginger, clove, allspice, vanilla, Indian nutmeg, and Vietnamese and Ceylon cinnamon. Grab a pumpkin spice latte to enjoy with a gluten-free muffin or the vegan banana bread. 8910 Sonoma Highway, Suite B12, Kenwood, pillowfight.coffee
Sonoma
Darling, an Ice Cream Shop
This Sonoma scoop shop rotates ice cream flavors monthly. While the October menu hasn’t been released yet, we expect to see former pumpkin-y faves like last year’s pumpkin Oreo ice cream and pumpkin brandy ice cream, made with brandy from Prohibition Spirits. 201 W. Napa St., Suite 6, Sonoma, 707-343-1482, darlingsonoma.com
Sunflower Caffé
The sunny Sonoma cafe’s menu currently features a pumpkin bread mini loaf, served with whipped espresso butter, as well as pumpkin spice lattes. 421 First St. W., Sonoma, 707-996-6645, sonomasunflower.com
Layla at MacArthur Place
The restaurant at MacArthur Place Hotel currently has a delicious selection of seasonal, pumpkin-y treats on its desert menu. Dishes include a fried pumpkin pie with mango sherbet and curried pineapple chutney; pumpkin ice cream sandwich with hot fudge and pistachio crunch; pumpkin tiramisu with salted pepitas and chocolate sorbet; and pumpkin toast with hibiscus pickled pears and brown butter pecan ice cream. 29 E. MacArthur St., Sonoma, 707-938-2929, macarthurplace.com
Sonoma Coast
Wild Flour Bread
The Freestone bake shop has a spiced pumpkin bread studded with walnuts, cranberries and candied ginger, resulting in a festive mashup of pumpkin pie and gingerbread flavors. 140 Bohemian Highway., Freestone, 707-874-2938, wildflourbread.com
Nom Nom Cakes
The Bodega Bay-based home bakery has fall specials such as a spiced pumpkin bread, pumpkin cake frosted with maple buttercream, traditional pumpkin pie spiced with nutmeg and ginger, and pumpkin cheesecake topped with brown sugar praline sauce. Place an order online for delivery or pickup in Bodega Bay. 390 Calle Del Sol, Bodega Bay, 805-350-0680, nomnombaking.com
The Birds Cafe
This coastal cafe has a cozy fall drink menu that includes a pumpkin spice latte and pumpkin cream chai topped with pumpkin cold foam. Both are great accompaniments to the pumpkin bread with a pumpkin glaze. 1407 Highway 1 Bodega Bay, 707-875-2900, thebirdscafe.com
Multiple locations
A pumpkin spice latte from Plank’s Coffee. The latte includes their roasted Pine Mountain espresso and organic housemade pumpkin spice syrup. (Planks Coffee)
Plank Coffee
North county’s Plank Coffee offers a seasonal pumpkin spice latte, naturally flavored with organic pumpkin, brown and cane sugar, and fall spices (cinnamon, cloves, ginger and nutmeg), plus a double shot of house-roasted Pine Mountain Espresso. There’s nothing artificial-tasting or overly sweet in this special fall drink. 175 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-395-0572; 227 N. Cloverdale Blvd., Cloverdale, 707-894-6187, plankcoffee.com
Noble Folk Ice Cream & Pie Bar
On the fall menu at this pie and ice cream shop is a pumpkin chocolate cheesecake. The cheesecake is filled in an Oreo crust and topped with a rich chocolate ganache and a sprinkle of cinnamon. There’s also a pumpkin chocolate ice cream, satisfying in any weather. 539 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-978-3392; 116 Matheson St., Healdsburg, 707-395-4426, thenoblefolk.com
Angela’s Organic Ice Cream
On its extensive list of ice cream flavors, Angela’s has a creamy pumpkin cheesecake ice cream perfect for the fall season. It’s made with pumpkin puree, cream cheese and aromatic spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg and cardamom. Locations in Healdsburg, Petaluma and Forestville. angelasicecream.com
Avid Coffee
This local coffee chain offers a pumpkin latte made with pumpkin pie syrup from Sonoma Syrup Co. and topped with a sprinkle of cinnamon. Customers can also add pumpkin syrup to most drinks, like chai, mochas and cold brews. Pair any drink with the gluten-free pumpkin muffin. 21 Fourth St., Petaluma, 707-772-5117; 2365 Midway Drive, Santa Rosa, 707-595-5984, avidcoffee.com
Green unripe tomatoes hang on a tomato bush branch. (Iryna Boiko / Getty Images)
As fall sets in and summer’s harvest begins to wither and wane, we scramble to gather the last of our tomatoes, many still green, before the season’s first frost.
There are now several heirloom and hybrid varieties that are green when ripe, among them Striped Zebra, Emerald Evergreen, and Green Tiger. These are not the same as fall’s green tomatoes, still firm, unripe, and unlikely to fulfill their destiny.
Sicilians have a great approach, pulling out cherry tomato plants by their roots, hanging them upside-down outside in a protected area, and plucking them off the vine as they ripen.
This trick does not work for larger varieties, which should be enjoyed right away or preserved. Fried green tomatoes are ubiquitous and especially delicious when topped with a sphere of fresh chèvre and finished with cream. Fermenting them in a salt brine offers an extraordinary way to make salsas, sauces, and even bloody marys. Green tomato chutney is a compelling condiment with winter stews and braises.
Adding green tomatoes — cut in wedges and then halved — to your favorite stir-fry contributes a burst of bright acid. A combination of tomatoes, corn cut from the cob, cubed winter squash, green beans cut into 1-inch pieces, and minced shallots is both beautiful and luscious; add cooked, cubed chicken thighs, and voila!, dinner in minutes.
The days of gazpacho may be behind us, but green tomato soup is a delight, hot or chilled.
Freshly picked green tomatoes are delightful in a green tomato soup, hot or chilled. (Miss_Alva / Getty Images)
Green Tomato Soup
Makes about 6 servings
– 4 tbsp. olive oil
– 1 large shallot, peeled and minced
– 3 garlic cloves, peeled, crushed, and minced
– 1 serrano chile, stemmed and minced
– Kosher salt
– 3 pounds green, unripe tomatoes, cored and chopped
– 3 cups chicken or vegetable stock, preferably homemade
– ½ cup crème fraîche or plain whole-milk yogurt
– Freshly ground black pepper
– Extra-virgin olive oil
– ½ cup shelled and roasted pumpkin seeds
– Green Tabasco or other green hot sauce
Put the olive oil into a large soup pot set over medium-low heat, add the shallot and sauté until it begins to soften and give off its aroma, about 7 to 8 minutes. Add the garlic and serrano, cook 2 minutes more, and season with a pinch of salt.
Add the tomatoes, stir, season lightly with salt, and add the stock. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to very low, and simmer gently for 15 minutes. Stir in the crème fraîche or yogurt, remove from the heat, cover, and let rest for 10 to 15 minutes.
Purée the soup using a blender or immersion blender. For a very smooth version, pass through a strainer after blending. If the soup is too thick for your taste, thin with stock or water.
Divide among soup plates or bowls, swirl olive oil on top, scatter with pumpkin seeds, add a few drops of Tabasco, and enjoy right away. Alternately, chill for at least 3 hours before serving.
One of the best pitmasters around: Kris Austin of A&M BBQ in Sebastopol. (Kim Carroll / Sonoma Magazine)
Barbecue fans can slow their roll to A&M BBQ before they sell out. The popular Sebastopol barbecue spot will now stay open until 8 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday, and until 5 p.m. on Sunday.
While the ‘que used to sell out well before dinner, owner Kris Austin said he’s now making plenty more to feed the evening crowd — especially families looking for an easy supper pickup.
Texas Toast, cornbread muffins, pork ribs, links, brisket and tri-tip, barbecue chicken, baked beans, coleslaw and collard greens at A&M BBQ in Sebastopol. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Pitmasters Kris Austin and Marvin McKinzy (who has since left A&M BBQ) teamed up last June to serve Lone Star-style, wood-smoked meats. Their signature: a seasoned dry rub instead of sauce, letting the perfect pink smoke rings shine on brisket, tri-tip and pork ribs, plus that crave-worthy bark and lacy bits of fat.
There’s usually a line when the doors open, but you can skip the wait by pre-ordering online at ambbqllc.com. Find them at 495 S. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-799-2892.
Fungi limone pizza at Rosso Pizzeria & Wine Bar in Santa Rosa on Tuesday, September 30, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
When Santa Rosa’s Rosso Pizzeria and Wine Bar closed its doors in March, it felt like the end of an era. Opened in 2009 by chef John Franchetti, formerly of Tra Vigne, and Kevin Cronin, the wood-fired pizza shop had built a loyal following with its focus on simple Italian cooking and seasonal, local ingredients. Franchetti insisted that everything — from dough to burrata — be made in-house.
But Rosso was too inimitable to go gently into that good night. Less than seven months later, the restaurant reopened under the ownership of John and Linda Ahmadi, a husband-and-wife team who previously ran Sandy’s Take and Bake Pizza until they sold it to Kristen and Kenny Bringhurst in 2023. That last detail set off alarm bells in my head — was Rosso about to become another take-and-bake operation?
Happily, the answer is no. Rosso is very much itself again. The space and menu remain unchanged, many staff members have returned, and the food, for the most part, is just as good as you remember. Here’s my take.
Basu Slade slides a pizza onto a plate at Rosso Pizzeria & Wine Bar in Santa Rosa on Tuesday, Sept. 30, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
Tender veal and pork meatballs ($16) swim in a chunky tomato sugo as bright as the summer sun. The Caesar salad ($14) remains a garlic and Romaine lettuce powerhouse, complemented by lemon anchovy dressing and the gentle heat of Calabrian chili.
The Fungi di Limone pizza ($26) — a longtime favorite revered by my friend group — fell just short on a recent visit. The crust was still the blistered, wood-fired base Rosso fans will recognize, but there were too many thinly sliced mushrooms piled on top, detracting from the taleggio cheese’s hint of funk. A key finishing drizzle of citrusy lemon oil had accidentally been omitted, leaving the flavors somewhat muted. It was a rare misstep, but I will need to continue to investigate. Repeatedly and with gusto.
Rosso’s fried chicken with smashed potatoes and a sweet caramelized pancetta glaze ($27) continues to rank among my top 20 favorite meals in Sonoma County. Coated in arborio rice flour and fried crisp, the chicken remains juicy and flavorful. The smashed potatoes are loaded with butter and cream. It fulfilled every expectation, and we ate every morsel. Somebody may even have licked the plate.
Fried chicken and mashed potatoes at Rosso Pizzeria & Wine Bar in Santa Rosa on Tuesday, Sept. 30, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
The burrata salad ($15) is difficult to judge fairly because Franchetti originally made the cheese by hand. His version, filled with creamy ricotta, was so good I’ve never met its match. Since his departure from the restaurant in 2015, the burrata has never been the same. The current iteration, served with sweet strawberry compote, prosciutto and balsamic glaze, is a nice starter, but the cheese leans more toward fresh mozzarella in texture.
I don’t envy the Ahmadis — reviving a restaurant with such a devoted following is a daunting task. Memory has a way of softening the negatives, leaving behind sugar-coated recollections of the past: Was that mushroom pizza really as great as I remembered?
Guests await their food in booths at Roso Pizzeria & Wine Bar in Santa Rosa on Tuesday, September 30, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
No doubt, the soul of the restaurant remains intact. Artist Cheryl Chapman’s familiar illustrations still line the walls. The wine list continues to feature a strong mix of local and Italian selections. And new dishes, including eggplant Parmesan and desserts, are expected to debut soon. Best of all, longtime fans like us can once again gather at an old favorite, with eager forks and a sparkling glass of Lambrusco.
Chocolate Sacher Torte from Folia Friday, September 19, 2025 in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Chef Reed Palmer can’t escape the obvious question about his new high-profile position as chef de cuisine of the new Folia Bar & Kitchen at Appellation Healdsburg.
Yes, he is the son of celebrity chef Charlie Palmer, and the luxury resort is the second of six culinary-focused properties co-founded by his father and industry veteran Christopher Hunsberger.
At just 27, the younger Palmer manages the daily operations of the 200-plus-seat restaurant, which features a sweeping open kitchen with a live-fire grill at its center. It’s a big job with big responsibilities, and Palmer isn’t short on guidance. His father, along with culinary director Thomas Bellec and executive chef David Intonato, is frequently on-site as the newly opened resort slides into its first month of operation.
But Palmer isn’t here to rest on his father’s reputation. “If anything, I have to prove myself more,” he said as his team prepared for dinner service on a recent Thursday afternoon.
Folia chef/owner Charlie Palmer, left, and his son/chef de cuisine Reed Friday, Sept. 19, 2025, in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America at Hyde Park, Palmer also holds a degree in hospitality management from Cornell University. His culinary journey includes stints in the kitchens of Blue Hill at Stone Barns in New York, Amass in Copenhagen and Ilis in Brooklyn.
Raised in Healdsburg, Palmer chose to learn the ropes elsewhere before returning to the family business. He counts both his father and Matt Orlando, founder of Amass and a former chef de cuisine at Noma, considered one of the world’s best restaurants, as mentors.
Now back in his hometown, wandering through the raised garden beds outside Folia, Palmer maintains he’s still the same Cardinal Newman grad who once bussed tables at his dad’s restaurant.
The place
The entrance to the dining room at Folia Friday, Sept. 19, 2025, in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)The dining room at Folia Friday, Sept. 19, 2025, in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Appellation Healdsburg is a striking example of country luxury on a grand scale. The resort features 108 guest rooms, two pools, a spa, an event center, classrooms, two bars, Folia restaurant and more than eight acres of landscaped grounds. These include ancient olive trees transplanted from Southern California, fruit trees, culinary gardens and even a small vineyard. Designed by Novato-based EDG Design, the enclosed property is in a class of its own with floor-to-ceiling windows, bespoke furniture and breathtaking views at every turn. The million-dollar sunset view from Andys Beeline Rooftop bar is worth experiencing.
The hotel’s layout underscores its culinary focus. Guests walk directly into the restaurant upon arrival, a deliberate gesture that sets the tone for the Appellation experience. From welcome canapés to edible spa botanicals (Meyer lemon, lavender, honey) to hands-on culinary classes, Charlie Palmer has curated an immersive food experience that celebrates Northern California’s agricultural bounty, past and present.
On a private tour, he highlights the specifics of his vision: the citrus trees he has selected for the property, the 150-year-old olive trees, and the baby Sauvignon Blanc vines that are yet to be trellised. Palmer also takes the time to highlight Folia’s open-hearth grill, along with a demonstration kitchen equipped with state-of-the-art audio and video technology. When it comes to the kitchen, however, he’s mostly hands off. Except for the waffle fries, those are all his.
The food
I expected the usual fine dining fare — aged duck, pâté and giant cuts of beef — at Folia. What I didn’t anticipate were the elementary school-style waffle fries. Never one to pass up a good fry, I ordered the fries and aioli with fennel pollen and garlic ($8) as a side dish. I was prepared for hoity-toity thin-cut Bouchon fries. I got Chick-fil-A.
Classic Cheeseburger from the lunch menu at the bar/lounge from Folia Friday, Sept. 19, 2025, in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
“I like as much caramelization as possible,” said Charlie Palmer, explaining the appeal of waffle fires, which offer extra surface area. Double-fried, they’re pretty extraordinary. They also make an appearance on the lunch menu alongside Reed Palmer’s cheeseburger — a truly memorable burger worth a return visit.
Though the restaurant serves three meals a day, dinner is really what you’re here for. The menu is a three-course prix fixe for $85, so that’s something to keep in mind. There are à la carte sides and snacks available, and a pared-down dinner menu in the bar and lounge.
The seasonal menu feels like a reasonable deal for $85. Like most Charlie Palmer restaurants, the focus is on New American cuisine, highlighting seasonal, locally sourced ingredients. More than lip service, the chefs are truly passionate about using whatever’s fresh from the garden that day.
Folia Bread Service with Straus butter from Folia Friday, Sept. 19, 2025, in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Start with complimentary housemade bread and a scoop of butter from the basketball-sized mound at the serving station. The brioche is outstanding. If you’re particularly snacky, the ‘Nduja Croquettes are light, crispy bites with a peppercorn kick.
Chef Shane McAnelly’s pasta tasting menu at Palmer’s Dry Creek Kitchen inspired several excellent dishes, with the best being the Creste di gallo Pomodoro, cock’s comb-shaped pasta with crisp guanciale, orange tomato and sweet corn.
Grilled Hog Island Oysters with smoked choron sauce from Folia Friday, Sept. 19, 2025, in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
The black cod cioppino, with Manila clams, Bay squid, fennel and cranberry beans, has a hint of Sonoma County’s impending fall weather. Warm, rich and satisfying, it uses sustainable black cod from local waters. The olive oil-poached halibut is perfectly tender, served with tiny Japanese turnips, garlic and olives. The roasted duck breast was fine, though not a favorite — I prefer my duck rare with crackling skin. If you’re dining with a friend, there are several entrées for two, including a New York Strip ($35 supplement), whole fish or whole roasted chicken.
Desserts from executive pastry chef Nadim Bounoua rotate regularly, but a slice of lemon tart with mile-high meringue is a fun way to finish the meal. An extensive wine list will satisfy connoisseurs, complemented by signature cocktails. The Sweet Cerise ($20), with whiskey, pomegranate, ginger and lemon, was particularly impressive.
Lemon Meringue from Folia Friday, Sept. 19, 2025, in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)Le Mirage cocktail with Hanson vodka, lychee and rosehip lemon from Folia Friday, Sept. 19, 2025, in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Overall
As Charlie Palmer’s son, chef Reed Palmer has a lot to live up to. But he’s certainly putting his own spin on dishes that continue the legacy of bringing New American cuisine to the forefront, with an emphasis on honest ingredients, simple cooking techniques and local flair.
Folia Bar & Kitchen, 101 Dovetail Lane, Healdsburg, 707-723-2130, foliabarandkitchen.com. Dinner served from 5-9 p.m. Wednesday to Sunday. Lounge menu available from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily.
Andys Beeline Rooftop is open from 4-11 p.m. daily by reservation at beelinerooftop.com.
A newly built estate on 2 acres in Sonoma is currently listed for $12,995,000. (CS Photography / Sotheby’s International Realty)
A newly built estate, with simple geometry and sumptuous finishes on 2.2 acres in Sonoma, is currently listed for sale. The four-bedroom, four-and-a-half-bathroom dwelling spans 7,377 square feet across the main home, guest casita, and the dual garage and gym pavilion. The list price is $12,995,000.
The build is a series of single-gable structures in a U-shape around a courtyard with a pool and spa. The result is a grand and fresh take on modern farmhouse style. Wood slat siding adds distinct modernity while stone siding offers a traditional aesthetic.
Inside, an abundant use of Breccia Capraia and Viola marbles truly dazzles in the tranquil, clean-lined interior. The centered and symmetrical placement of windows in all rooms frames the scenic outdoors as art. High-vaulted ceilings offer visual space and light.
Kitchen in the newly built Sonoma home. It features a dazzling use of Breccia Capraia and Viola marbles. (CS Photography / Sotheby’s International Realty)Great room and patio in the new Sonoma home. A large slider connects the indoors to the outdoor terrace and pool. (CS Photography / Sotheby’s International Realty)
A 41-foot slider connects the interior and the exterior. The grounds include gardens and old-growth oaks and olive trees.
In addition to solar power and automated shades, the property is designed with fire suppression elements like a standing seam steel roof, ceiling sprinklers, and lots of gravel and stone surrounds.
The home’s design and construction are the work of Sonoma-based, family-owned Ridge Design + Build. The home’s furnishings — witty choices of curved lines, bright and subdued colors, and playful patterns — are also the work of the firm, which curates and designs in collaboration with furniture dealers and manufacturers.
For more information on 1438 Ridge Valley Road in Sonoma, contact listing agents Caroline Sebastiani, 707-935-2277, 415-290-3123; or Charlie Luna, 707-935-2288, 415-827-8885; Sotheby’s International Realty – Wine Country – Sonoma Brokerage, sothebysrealty.com
A mid-century modern home, built in 1952 on a wooded half-acre above the Russian River, is currently listed for sale. The one-bedroom, one-and-a-half bathroom dwelling with a detached studio is priced at $748,000.
The 1,245-square-foothome is filled with light thanks to numerous windows — with views of redwoods to boot. The airy living room has an exposed-beam ceiling and a brick hearth. A spunky red spiral staircase leads to the bedroom, which has a balcony overlooking the yard.
Living room. (Jim Nevill Productions)Office nook and staircase. (Jim Nevill Productions)Front yard seating area and fire pit. (Jim Nevill Productions)
The woodsy outdoor space is cozied up with landscaping, lounging spots and a fire pit. The home is just a few minutes from downtown Guerneville.
For more information on this property at 14282 Highland Ave. in Guerneville, contact listing agent Regina Jenkins, 415-225-1785, Vanguard Properties,vanguardproperties.com
