The quick thwap, thwap, thwap of women’s hands tossing thick corn tortillas from palm to palm is the sound of Salvadoran soul food.
No state-of-the-art kitchen gadgets, recipes or plastic gloves required. Just the flutter of hands stretching dough, warming the masa, and gently pulling and patting pupusas into imperfect circles. Pan-fried to deliciousness.
These chubby cousins to the tortilla are the original to-go food: Convenient pockets of cheese, meat, veggies, beans sealed inside corn flat bread. On the side: Curtido (a fermented cabbage that’s El Salvador’s version of kimchi) and salsa.
Cooler than a quesadilla. More able to conquer lunchtime hunger than a mere taquito. And handmade just for you.
El Malecon: Salvadoran natives, Sonoma State students and in-the-know chow hounds rub elbows at this mom-and-pop eatery tucked well off the beaten path. The owners make everything by hand, including the best pupusas in Sonoma County. Fresh horchata, banana leaf-wrapped tamales and hearty platos of ham, eggs, rice, beans and queso fresco round out the menu. 217 Southwest Blvd., Rohnert Park, (707) 794-9047
Pupuseria Salvadorena: One of the first pupuserias to hit the radar of local foodies, this humble little eatery is all about fresh pupusas and authentic El Salvadoran comfort food. Try their pupusas de chicarron, queso y frijoles (pork, cheese and beans), pupusa de queso, calabaza y Espinaca (cheese, squash and spinach) or the pupusa y loroco (a pupusa with loroco flower, an edible flower that grows in Central and South America). And at $2 each, they’re a steal. 1403 Maple Ave., Santa Rosa, 707.544.3141
Wild Goat Bistro, Petaluma
With river-adjacent seating, charming exposed-brick walls, and sunny windows, Wild Goat Bistro is real-estate gold for lunchtime and post-theater dining. Espousing a commitment to locally-sourced ingredients and approachable Mediterranean-influenced dishes (pizza, burgers, salads and heartier evening entrees) its got broad potential.
The kitchen, however, still needs some gentle herding.
Housed in the former Sooze Wine Bar location there are some solid menu picks at Wild Goat, especially at lunch. Thin and crispy pizzas lead the charge: “In Season” ($11.75) is an oft-changing featured pizza we had with pear, gorgonzola and arugula. Served on wooden boards, it’s picture perfect. A steak-and-potato topped pizza (The Rancher, $12.50) missed the mark not with flavor, but presentation: Biting into a slice with long vertical strips of steak can make for embarrassing (and messy) cheese-meets-steak-meets-chin slapping.
Salads are also tasty: The springy Cobb ($12.50, also available in half-orders) hits all the right notes with its lighter take on the classic and is enough for two to share easily. The restaurant serves up a few heartier entrees in the evenings, along with many of the lunchtime fare, including seasonal fish, The Petaluma Burger (grass-fed Niman ranch beef) and pasta. Cakes are sweet and rustic, housed on covered cake plates along the counter. Charm-points.
But the devil’s in the details. Mismatched thrift-store-esque dishes are only quaint when they’re ironic or in a dorm room. Neither of which they are here. Fancy plating techniques can become classic fails in over-ambitious hands: Water crackers stuck into a hunk of chevre is giggle-worthy (though the toasted slice of baguette in a wire basket impressed). Potato wedges are best left on the plate rather than teetering over my burger. Flavor pile-ups (tomatoes, balsamic vinegar, olive tapenade and goat cheese) distract. Both of my dining partners looked on horrified when a plastic Heinz squeeze bottle of ketchup was thunked on the table. Fine at a diner. Not when we’re the bill is going to be over $60.
Overall, minor faux pas…but restaurants are in the business of appealing to all the senses and mangled details detract from the otherwise well-crafted experience.
Just out of the gate, Wild Goat has good intent, but like any gal trying to impress, sometimes needs a quick look in the mirror. Remove a few overly ambitious-accessories and invest in some foundation pieces. Because simple, confident and classic is often the best way to go.
+++
Wild Goat Bistro, 6 Petaluma Blvd N, Ste A5 (in the Great Petaluma Mill), Petaluma, (707) 658-1156. Lunch from 11:45am to 3pm daily, Dinner from 5 to 9pm Sun-Thursds; 5 to 10pm Fri, Sat. Live music Friday and Saturday from 7 to 9:30pm.
Franco’s Ristorante: Santa Rosa
CLOSED
If wood-fired pizzas haven’t been named the signature food of Sonoma County, consider this the official nomination. I’m hard-pressed to think of a recent restaurant that’s opened in the last year that didn’t have gourmet ‘zas in the lineup.
And while I’ve certainly gotten better acquainted with a little char on my pie lately, this isn’t necessarily bad news. As Americans we average about 23 pounds of pie per person annually, stuffing in an close to 350 slices per second as a nation. Hold the anchovies!
Franco’s, housed in the former 505/Acapulco space along with the new Chrome Lotus nightclub is a recent entrant into the pie game. At the helm: Franco Fabiani, the former owner of Fabiani’s.
You’ll immediately get his faux-villa vibe, with plenty of earth-toned
stucco, tile floors, mini frescos and a wine grotto by the door. It’s a
charming transformation of what was once a miserable cave into something
light and airy — with a back room fireplace and enclosed outdoor
patio. Franco (at least when we visited) mans the door, welcoming
guests. Adding credibility is an open kitchen where diners can watch
their meals prepared, rather than wondering what’s happening behind
closed doors. And trust me, BiteClub shimmied out during a previous
version of the restaurant after 45 minutes of waiting and wondering.
Solid Start: Franco’s menu is simple, with a handful of antipasti
($8-$14), four wood-fired pizzas ($10-$12) and eight pasta and meat
entrees ranging from $16 to $28. Prices seem spendy for the lunch
crowd, but servings are generous and sharable. To attract the lunch-bunch, however, some lower priced pizzas might be a solid idea.
Best bets: Breads and pizzas really shine here, with a solid homemade
touch. Warm, herbed foccaccia is a great amuse, brought quickly out to
the table. The grilled Italian bread from Bruschetta di Mare ($14) also
shines, even though the overly tart, rubbery mare doesn’t. The Dominique
is a belly-pleaser, big enough for two, with smoked mozzarella,
romano, prosciutto, argula, garlic and olive oil ($12). Pair with
Insalata Mingo, a light Caesar-esque salad with whole leaves of Romaine,
bread crumbs and lemon-garlic dressing.
We hear that Franco’s Italian sister has been working the kitchen during
the opening days, getting things just so, and hopes are high that her
touch will continue to influence the menu it settles into being another
solid downtown addition.
Note: It’s important to note that Franco’s and Chrome Lotus do not share
a common entrance, nor is there inside access between the two —
something that proved to be a weird issue with 505. The two spaces,
though they are housed in the same building, strive to maintain a unique
personality. How well the dinner and bar crowd will jive (because they
are in close quarters) remains to be seen.
Franco’s: 505 Mendocino Ave, Santa Rosa 707-523-4800. Open from 11:30am
to 9:30pm(ish) daily. Beer and wine only.
Check out BiteClubber Gregory’s awesome pictures: http://www.essenceofimagery.com/Francos/
Ask Heather
Ask me anything — about food that is.
I’ll try to get your answer if I can…
Leave a comment below or email me at heather@heatherirwin.com
The Garden | Santa Rosa Vegan
Vegan food always seems like a punishment rather than a lifestyle choice. Like wearing a hair shirt or flogging yourself with a cat ‘o nine tails. I mean, go for it if that’s what you’re into, but leave me out of it. Because humans are natural omnivores. We have canine teeth for a reason and bacon wasn’t invented because it tasted bad.
But here’s the thing: There is something to be said for eating more fruits and vegetables. For limiting that big old carbon footprint, taking a more humane approach to life, and knowing that your meal came from the ground rather than a feedlot. So, yeah, I get it.
So it should come as no surprise that I’ve been foot-dragging on the latest entrant into the vegan restaurant game, The Garden (90 Mark West Springs Road, Santa Rosa). Suffice to say that before cautiously embarking, I made sure that nearby Cricklewood would be open and standing by with a steak should things go south.
Despite some ambivalence about the whole thing, they didn’t.
The Garden wins you over immediately with sweet, chewy slices of whole wheat bread dipped in olive oil. Fresh spring rolls filled with veggies and dipped into peanut sauce could use a use a lighter rice paper wrap, but (aside from not being filled with pork and shrimp) were refreshing. Hummus fails, but the Crispy Thai Tofu Salad (that wasn’t really all that crispy and shouldn’t have had out-of-season tomatoes, $11.95) was beautifully plated and tasty.
Best bet: The Carl Burger ($10.50). Ignore the fact that its made out of oats and a host of equally unhamburgery ingredients. Delish. Amazing bun, sweet sauce, a deliciously spicy patty, crisp veggies. Yeah, I’d eat this again, probably with some Fakon, vegan cheez and avocado. With little nuggets of baked sweet potato, its a huge, filling and ultimately satisfying lunch.
Carob cake, well, it looked pretty.
The restaurant also offer smoothies for take-out, but I was left wondering if perhaps they might make more of a killing on selling some
of the great housemade breads and buns (including gluten-free options). The Garden also features dinner entrees including pastas, eggplant parmesan, bbq tofu, quiche Lorraine and enchiladas ($13-$15). The interior is light, sunny and warm with friendly, if not totally informed staff. (Hint: If I’m new to this cuisine, please be able to tell me what’s in it.)
The Garden is working hard to bring flavor and good taste to a cuisine sorely in need of some good pr. And starting with a darned tasty burger isn’t a bad way to start.
The Garden, 90 Mark West Springs Road, 829-1410.
Fremont Diner, Sonoma: Closed
The Fremont Diner, hidden away among Sonoma’s vineyards and pastures, is the sort of place every traveler dreams about stumbling into, but rarely ever does.
Oozing nouveau decrepitude, a heavy dose of John Deere chic and the irresistible lure of a butter and pork-soaked menu that would bring a tear of recognition to grandpappy’s eyes, the diner is everything good about, well, roadside diners. Here, “Praise the Lard”, isn’t just a quirky tag line, but a mission from 7am to 4pm daily.
The former burger stand, which stood empty for more than a year, had long been a serviceable plastic basket eatery called Babe’s Burgers and Franks. It’s most redeeming quality the 70’s-era Pepsi sign out front and the fact that it stood at the halfway point between the Sonoma and Napa Valleys.
After some jittery opening months, the diner has gelled into sweet Southern Sunday morning perfection with breakfasty-brunchy dishes like the Almost Famous Biscuits & Gravy (sweet cream biscuits with lush sausage gravy, $7.25), Black Pepper Brisket Hash (oak smoked brisket with caramelized onions, potatoes and a fried egg, $9.25), Buttermilk Waffles ($6.75), Cheesy House Ground Grits ($4.25) and Braeburn Apple Donuts ($5).
Walk-up and order, grab a mug of Taylor Maid coffee and one of the Mr. Potato Heads scattered around, and stake your claim at one of the reclaimed wood tables inside (in warmer months, there are outdoor picnic tables) or the kitchen bar (for ringside seats).
Reinforcing my long-held notion that caterers truly make some of the best chefs (at least when it comes to comfort food), St. Helena’s Chad Harris (of Caridwyn & Sons, formerly Rising Sun Catering) is the chief spatula behind the diner. Along with the diner grub, Harris also sells homey jams, jellies and sauces, coveted Rancho Gordo Beans, “throwback” sodas and other regional goodies.
It’s worth a return trip for lunch, when the Fremont Diner stokes up the grills again with The Fremont Burger (a Marin Sun grass fed burger with all the fixins, $9.50); Whole Hog Sandwich (oak-smoked pork with coleslaw & pickles on an egg bun, $8.99), Nashville fried chicken with macaroni ($10.25) and a Wild Shrimp Po’Boy ($11.50). Sides include fries, collard greens, Rancho Gordo bean sand milkshakes. For dessert: Fried pies (natch), giant cookies and sweet milk chicory coffee.
But get there fast. Locals and savvy San Franciscans have already found this hidden gem, and it won’t stay a secret long.
Fremont Diner, 2660 Fremont Dr., Sonoma, (707) 938-7370. Open daily 7(ish)am to 4pm.
Tres Hombres Petaluma
Where to go for tequila in Petaluma? Tres Hombres. There’s a separate margarita menu, featuring everything from blended fruit sippers to traditional shaken margaritas made with their premium tequilas, making this a weekend hotspot. Tres Hombres’ menu ranges from quick bites at the taco bar to Tex-Mex classics (nachos, quesadillas, burritos), to more intriguing entrees like the Mojito Chicken (a marinated chicken breast topped with mint and lim glaze) and Argentine Hangar steak. Expect a casual, but refined vibe at this Theater Square spot in Petaluma. BiteClub was actually pleasantly surprised that the feel was less Chico State (their other outpost is in the bustling party town) and more, well, the carefully cultivated urban feel of Theater Square. The interior is much more luxe than your standard taco bar restaurant, with cozy booths,
lots of wood and an extra long bar for tequila tasting flights.
151 Petaluma Boulevard South
Petaluma, CA 94952
(707) 773-4500
Willi’s Seafood | Healdsburg
Serious seafood-centric eating is usually best left to the coast, but Willi’s Seafood is a rare inland exception with a bevy of half-shells and sea fauna. Cocktails and small plates for sharing are the order of the day. Don’t miss the lobster roll or Dungeness Crab Louie along with one of the area’s best local raw oyster bars, steamer pots of mussels swimming in PBR and Old Bay.
403 Healdsburg Ave, Healdsburg, 707.433.9191 Hours:Sun-Thurs, 11:30am to 9:30pm; Fri-Sat, 11:30am to 10pm
Restaurant P30: Chic, cheap comfort food
CLOSED
It takes a village to open a restaurant.
Since last summer, legions of Facebook friends have watched the daily highs and lows as Patrick and Christine Tafoya open their first restaurant, P30 in Sebastopol. Some days were clearly rough going (“Opening night and no babysitter (flu). This is fun”) while others ecstatic (“The restaurant is totally packed on a Sunday night….we are just so flippin’ happy”).
But through six months of choppy waters they found instant commiseration from a choir of 140-character cheers.
Now that the restaurant has officially opened, their virtual village are clamoring for a tableside-seat to the restaurant drama they’ve watched unfold online. With snap-happy opening in late January (Christine was rarely without her iPhone during the opening week, posing friends both real and virtual) the restaurant is already doing a brisk business even in the doldrums of the SoCo tourist season.
The “Why You’re Here Dish” is Tafoya’s signature Gleason fried chicken
with brown butter waffles and homemade strawberry jam ($14). There’s
nothin’ like it in the North Bay and likely won’t be. Tafoya has long
been a devotee of the ranch (see why) and cuts into his own margins to
get this dish right.
The Rest of The Menu: “Chic + Cheap Comfort Food” (nothing on the menu
is over $15). Grassfed beef hamburgers with house made salted brioche buns, house
made pickles and catsup ($11); grilled flatbread with St. Jorge cheese
and truffled arugula ($8); biscuit-topped chicken pot pie ($12); mac
& cheese ($7); hand-cut Kennebec sea-salt fries ($6); foraged
mushroom and walnut ravioli; s’mores for two (served in a glass jar
with melted chocolate ganache, brownies, marshmallow fluff and grahams,
$10); root beer floats with homemade root beer and ice cream ($7).
First-week-eaters take heart: Tafoya has reworked the fries, dialed in
the s’mores and added a Meyer lemon meringue custard to weep for.
Why they already have so many fans: The former Duck Club chef is
bringing is haute sensibilities to affordable, everyday eats. Along with an unswaying in his devotion to small,
local purveyors (like Gleason Ranch), which for a deep-pocketed resort is one thing…but for a chef/owner an especially dedicated proposition. Says the couple: “(P/30 is)…unfussy and honest. We are serving
the kind of food we like to eat, in a setting that we want to be in.”
The Vibe: Inside, the restaurant has undergone a nip/tuck. The
roadhouse spirit is intact, with a hip cut and color that’s less East
Village walk-up and more Brooklyn loft. It’s also more kid-friendly,
with crayons and butcher paper on the tables begging for scribbles and
a “wee ones” menu of their own. Mindful of dietary restrictions,
Tafoya’s kitchen “happily” accommodates vegan requests. And means it. Beer on tap and
wine available.
Join the village.
Restaurant P30, 9890 Bodega Hwy, Sebastopol, 707.861.9030. Open Wednesday through Sunday, 5pm to 9pm.
Bistro M | Windsor
Settled into the Windsor Town Green Bistro M has familiar old friends from owners Bryan and Matthew Bousquet’s former restaurant, Mirepoix: steak frite, escargot, coq au vin and steak au poivre. But Bistro M has
a more relaxed, less brass-ring feel, tossing in a Croque Madame, hamburger, and Caesar salad into the mix for the lunch crowd along with charcuterie, oysters, cheeses and simple salads.
Make no mistake, however, that doesn’t mean you won’t find some classy nouveau rustic dishes at the Bistro with Bousquet’s signature all over them: Frog’s Legs Provencal ($13), Sweet Breads with Fries, Lamb Neck ($12) and Cassoulet.
A few best bets: Duck liver mousse, house cured salmon, trout rillettes (3 for $12 on the charcuterie menu); a lush, sweet onion soup ($9); Sole Mueniere with roasted potatoes ($15), mussels ($12).
Bistro M has a full bar with an beefy wine list and will be serving Sunday brunch from 10am to 8pm, lunch and dinner 11:30am to 9pm Monday through Saturday.
Bistro M, 610 McClelland Drive, Windsor, 707-838-3118. www.thebistrom.com