Vote for America’s Favorite Farmer’s Markets

Celebrity chefs, out.
Farmers, in.

Suddenly its cool to be a hick again as
…wide-eyed hipsters modishly swap their iPhones for dirty coveralls…

…green-keen eco-warriors reclaim their own little piece of Mother Earth…
…lady and gentleman farmers with a Green Acres complex get seedy…
…Facebookers drive us all crazy with their Farmville obsessions…
…and bemused octagenarian agrarians who’ve been through the ups-and-downs of real-life farming for decades sit back and wonder what all the fuss is about.
Whatever their reasons for hoping on that John Deere, the good news is that the intense passion is fostering a renewed interest in where food actually comes from (hint: not the store! Read Michael Pollan’s Food Rules, it’s a snap.).  And with that, a slow but steady change in how all of us eat.  Suddenly fewer of us are mindlessly consuming factory-farmed foods from the local megamart and more of us are heading to local farm markets to actually meet ‘n greet with their friendly neighborhood producers. Which is probably a good thing considering the fact that small, family run farms were teetering on the brink of extinction just a few years ago.
In an effort to bring even more light to these dirt-under-the-nails food growers, the American Farmland Trust is now promoting a nation-wide challenge to see which four farmers markets across America can really the most support from their customers.
This of course should be a cinch-up for SoCo, considering we have more farm markets than you can shake a rhubarb at.
Except there are several who aren’t signed-up. You know who you are (Santa Rosa, Healdsburg, Sebastopol, Rohnert Park, so sign up!). On the ballot are the Wednesday Night Market in Santa Rosa, the Windsor Farmer’s Market, and Occidental markets. Winning markets get national bragging rights. VOTE NOW
Which really, is a whole lot cooler than laying claim to Rocco DiSpirito or Bobby Flay.

SRJC Cafe reopens June 23

The Santa Rosa Junior College Culinary Café and Bakery will open for summer session on Wednesday June 23, 2010.
At the Café, students plan, prepare, cook and serve a weekly menu of seasonal salads, soups, sandwiches, pizzas, entrees and desserts. The Café opens for lunch at 11:30AM and serves until 2:00PM. A sample Café menu can be viewed at www.santarosa.edu/café. Seniors age 60+ receive a 15% discount on lunch each day, all day. Reservations, though not required, are recommended by calling 707-576-0279. A separate room is available for group luncheons and meetings of up to 36 people.
The SRJC Bakery features freshly baked pastries and award winning breads made by students in the school’s Baking and Pastry Program. Between 7:30AM and 10:00AM, baked goods and Taylor Maid coffee drinks can be enjoyed in the Café’s dining room while watching culinary students prepare for the day’s lunch service. Breads, pastries and desserts (that change daily) to take home can be purchased until 2:00PM Wednesday-Friday.

Summer Celebrations: Kids, Dudes & Crowds


Released from the shackles of school, work and the winter doldrums, there are a million reasons to celebrate this summer. From Father’s Day (June 20), to graduations, warm-weather weddings, baby showers, or turning 29 all over again (whether its your birthday or not) the season is all about taking time relax and enjoy the little milestones of life. Maybe even stopping to smell a rose or two along the way.
Whether you’re ready to find some new and unfamiliar spots to share your celebration, or just revisiting an old haunt with a fresh perspective, here are some of our favorite local finds…
Celebrate Like A Kid
Universe Billiards: Let out your inner pool shark at this all-ages billiard hall. The recently renovated space near downtown Petaluma has more than 20(!) pool tables, plus foosball, pinball, darts, classic arcade games, big screen tvs and jukeboxes. A large bar area serves up microbrews to root beers, making it a great daytime space for hip teen and tween birthdays and an offbeat grown-up party spot after dark. Just try to get your guys out of this spot. 246 Petaluma Blvd. N, Petaluma, 707-762-8921
Kids Party Central: Grab your socks, because here everybody gets to play in the jumpy house. The only catch: You gotta come with a child. But hey, they’re easy enough to come by (offer to babysit for a neighbor if you must). Inside is an inflatable wonderland of giant slides, puffy obstacle courses and kid-tastic fun for all ages that will make you feel like you’re seven again. Until you wrench your knee and remember that you’re not. Plus, kids absolutely love it. Open play times on selected weekdays, otherwise, by appointment or private parties. 327 O’Hair Court, Santa Rosa, 575.KIDS
Sift: Silly rabbit, cupcakes aren’t just for kids.The new cupcakery in downtown Santa Rosa offers up a backroom party space where sweet tooths of all ages can stuff their faces while learning cupcake decorating secrets from the in-house bakery pros. 404 Mendocino, Suite A, Santa Rosa, 703-4228.
Warm Puppy Cafe: Sure, just about every kid who grew up in Santa Rosa has had a skating party at Snoopy’s Home Ice, but have you ever gone on a Tuesday afternoon? Remember what it felt like to squeal with delight over a hamburger served up in Snoopy’s dog dish, sitting by a crackling fire (cozy, even in the summer), sipping the world’s best hot chocolate and homemade chocolate chip cookies, and then getting a cool ride on the Zamboni. 1667 West Steele Lane
Santa Rosa, 546-7147.
Celebrate Dudes
Charlie’s at Windsor Golf Club: Public golf courses aren’t usually known for their cuisine — usually little more than microwaved hot dogs and chicken strips — but this quiet, lakeside dining spot is a hidden gem after a round of 18-holes. Lunchtime grub ranges from dudish pulled pork nachos, buffalo chicken pizza and steak to lighter Thai chicken salad, grilled ahi tuna and grilled chicken tacos. Plus dinner (chipotle honey orange baby back pork ribs) and weekend brunch. Open daily. 1340 19th Hole Drive, Windsor,838.8802.
Cattleman’s: Even though he’s the king of the Honey Do list, eats frisee with gusto and carries the diaper bag with style most days, sometimes dads need a little dude food — like a T-bone as big as your head. Cattleman’s is a crowd-pleaser with the carnivore-crowd, featuring big, juicy slabs of beef in all shapes and sizes in a standoff against loaded baked potatoes, warm bread, beans and piles of fried nibblies. No one leaves hungry. Or without a promise to start dieting tomorrow. Plus, there are usually some solid deals for kids and banquet seating if you’re bringing a crowd. 5012 Petaluma Blvd, N, Petaluma, 763-4114; 2400 Midway Drive, Montgomery Village, Santa Rosa, 546-1446.
Roy’s Chicago Doggery: Manly food by the foot. Chicago-style Vienna dogs with serious fixins, from kraut and mustard to the Windy City classic of peppers, onions, celery salt and relish, to chili dogs and, of course, the famous Home Wrecker, a 12-inch half-pounder loaded with toppings that dares you to even try.84 Corona Rd, Petaluma, 774-1574. Closed Sunday.
Celebrate Togetherness (Big Groups)
Pancakes, bacon, eggs and hash browns are universal crowd-pleasers, making breakfast one of the best bets for group eating. That, and everyone’s usually too tired to put up much of a fuss when the kids knock over the orange juice and throw Cheerios at the table. Grab ma, pa and the whole clan for a morning feast at Sam’s for Play (the only spot in town to get Hangtown Fry), where the casual diner atmosphere, phone book-length menu, large tables (including a private banquet room for 50) and walls of knick-knacks to gaze at while you wait make for relaxing family-friendly eats. Reasonable prices and weeknight specials (kids eat free on Tuesday nights) add to the value proposition. 2630 Cleveland Ave, Santa Rosa, 528-2929; 1024 Sebastopol Rd, Santa Rosa, 528-0506.

Hamburger Ranch and Pasta Farm in Cloverdale
Hamburger Ranch and Pasta Farm in Cloverdale

Life’s other universally-loved food: barbecue. If you’re on the road heading northward with a crowd, make a point of pulling over at the World Famous Hamburger Ranch and Pasta Farm. Because if the name doesn’t draw you in, the scent of smoked meats will. Inside the shack are walls filled with fans’ postcards, sent from ’round the world. At the table are rock-solid burgers, and daily ‘cue specials like pulled pork, chicken, brisket and ribs.On Friday, Saturday and Sundays, the patio grill fires up for steak, salmon and more. 31195 N Redwood Highway, Cloverdale, (866) 462-7421.
Estate: A bit more upscale is Estate, one of Wine Country’s most charming addresses. Inside the renovated butter-yellow Victorian, is Sondra Bernstein’s regional Italian eatery, featuring top-notch cocktails, wines and of course fresh made pastas, breads, wood-fired pizzas and hearty seasonal entrees (flat-iron steak, roasted chicken, and oh, the pork) served family-style. Room to Rent: The cozy wine room seats up to 22 and during warmer months, the arbor-covered west patio (up to 72) is perfect for cocktails and apps. 400 W. Spain St., Sonoma, 933-3663.
Celebrate Her
Okay, so maybe its a little sexist to think that the ladies love our greens, but in the immortal words of Seinfeld’s Elaine, sometimes a girl just wants a big salad. And maybe a nice glass of rose, a shared plate of fries and of course some cheesecake or something wonderfully chocolate. I mean, we can’t live on iceberg alone. So for showers of all types, ladies luncheons or just celebrating your fabulous self, some chic-olicious spots on my list: SolBar (because they totally get that sometimes you feel like a big old plate of pork and sometimes you’re more grilled salmon), 755 Silverado Trail, Calistoga, 866-942 7442; Barndiva (because their cocktails are so worth the splurge, house frites are always available and butter salad goes haute with drizzles of vinaigrette and local citrus) 231 Center St., Healdsburg, 431-0100; and the newly opened Santi, partially because there’s a gal at the helm (Chef Liz Hinman) and partly because Fountaingrove has never tasted so good (2097 Stagecoach Rd., Santa Rosa, 528-1549).

Chefs Korsh, Fox resurface

Eric Korsh, formerly of Restaurant Eloise in Sebastopol has returned to New York and, according to the New York Times, has been named chef at the fabish Waverly Inn and Garden in Greenwich Village. Perhaps they’ll be more appreciative of his penchant for offal. Also resurfacing is Jeremy Fox, the visionary vegetarian chef of Napa’s Ubuntu. Fox left Napa last winter just as Michelin kudos were being handed out, only to set up camp in LA for several months. He’s returning to the Bay Area, according to published reports, to head up Daniel Patterson’s new Oakland restaurant, Plum.

Rick Bayless Mole Recipe

robledo.jpgUPDATE: Kudos for winemaker Reymond Robledo’s invite to the White House State dinner honoring Mexican President Calderon along with a number of local wines with Mexican ties being poured for dignitaries. But as wine blogger, Dr. Vino pointed out in a recent post, uh, couldn’t pretty much every California wine fall into that category? “Raising any glass of California wine then on this august occasion could be accompanied by a mention of their enormous contributions,” said the blog.
++++++
PREVIOUSLY: Joining such bigwigs as Chef Rick Bayless, Beyonce, Whoopi Goldberg, Eva Longoria-Parker, George Lopez, Hilary Clinton and, oh yeah, President Obama and Mexican president Felipe Calderon at a White House State dinner tonight (5/19)… Sonoma County’s own Reynaldo Robledo, founder of the Robledo Family Winery. Reynaldo was asked to be part of the impressive guest list by none other than the Mexican prez himself. No word on whether they’ll be serving his wine at the dinner, but locals know they should be.
Check out the Washington Post site for more details…http://voices.washingtonpost.com/reliable-source/2010/05/the_white_house_mexico_state_d.html
In a related note, Bayless, who’s co-chef in the kitchen for the dinner shares his recipe for a mole sauce being served at the dinner that takes days to make from scratch in includes ingredients from lard and Mexican chocolate to avocado leaves, banana, almonds, tomatillos and stale bread.

RICK BAYLESS’ OAXACAN BLACK MOLE WITH BRAISED CHICKEN
Serves 8 (with about 10 cups of sauce, which will mean
leftovers to make enchiladas or more chicken with)
11 medium (about 5 1/2 ounces) dried mulato chiles
6 medium (about 2 ounces) dried chihualces chiles (see note in Variations and Improvisations below)
6 medium (about 2 ounces) dried pasilla chiles
1 dried chipotle chile (preferably the tan-brown chipotle meco)
1 corn tortilla, torn into small pieces
2 1/4-inch-thick slices of white onion
4 garlic cloves, unpeeled
About 2 cups rich-tasting lard or vegetable oil (for frying the chiles)
1/2 cup sesame seeds, plus a few extra for garnish
1/4 cup pecan halves
1/4 cup unskinned or Spanish peanuts
1/4 cup unskinned almonds
About 10 cups chicken broth (canned or homemade)
1 pound (2 medium-large or 6 to 8 plum) green tomatoes, roughly chopped
4 ounces (2 to 3 medium) tomatillos, husked, rinsed and roughly chopped
2 slices stale bread, toasted until very dark
1/4 teaspoon cloves, preferably freshly ground
1/2 teaspoon black pepper, preferably freshly ground
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon, preferably freshly ground Mexican canela
A scant teaspoon oregano, preferably Mexican
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 ripe banana
1/2 cup (about 3 ounces) finely chopped Mexican chocolate
2 or 3 avocado leaves (if you have them)
Salt, about 1 tablespoon depending on the saltiness of the broth
Sugar, about 1/4 cup (or a little more)
2 large (3 1/2- to 4-pound) chickens, cut into quarters
1. Getting started. Pull out the stems (and attached seed pods) from the chiles, tear them open and shake or scrape out the seeds, collecting them as you go.
Now, do something that will seem very odd: scoop the seeds into an ungreased medium-size (8- to 9-inch) skillet along with the torn-up tortilla, set over medium heat, turn on an exhaust fan, open a window and toast your seeds and tortilla, shaking the pan regularly, until thoroughly burned to charcoal black, about 15 minutes. (This is very important to the flavor and color of the mole.) Now, scrape them into a fine-mesh strainer and rinse for 30 seconds or so, then transfer to a blender.
Set an ungreased skillet or griddle over medium heat, lay on a piece of aluminum foil, and lay the onion slices and garlic cloves on that. Roast until soft and very dark (about 5 minutes on each side of the onion slices; peel it off the foil to turn it; about 15 minutes for the garlic ; turn it frequently as it roasts). Cool the garlic a bit, peel it and combine with the onion in a large bowl.
While the onion and garlic are roasting, turn on the oven to 350 degrees (for toasting nuts), return the skillet to medium heat, measure in a scant 2 cups of the lard or oil (you’ll need about 1/2-inch depth), and, when hot, begin frying the chiles a couple at a time: They’ll unfurl quickly, then release their aroma and piquancy (keep that exhaust on and window open) and, after about 30 seconds, have lightened in color and be well toasted (they shouldbe crisp when cool, but not burnt smelling). Drain them
well, gather them into a large bowl, cover with hot tap water, and let rehydrate for 30 minutes, stirring regularly to ensure even soaking. Drain, reserving the soaking liquid.
While the chiles are soaking, toast the seeds and nuts. Spread the sesame seeds onto a baking sheet or ovenproof skillet, spread the pecans, peanuts and almonds onto another baking sheet or skillet, then set both into the oven. In about 12 minutes the sesame seeds will have toasted to a dark brown; the nuts will take slightly longer. Add all of them to the blender (reserving a few sesame seeds for garnish), along with 1 1/2 cups of the
chicken broth and blend to as smooth a puree as you can. Transfer to a small bowl.
Without rinsing the blender, combine the green tomatoes and tomatillos with another 1/2 cup of the broth and puree. Pour into another bowl. Again, without rinsing the blender, combine the roasted onion and garlic with the toasted bread, cloves, black pepper, cinnamon, oregano, thyme, banana and 3/4 cup broth. Blend to a smooth puree and pour into a small bowl.
Finally, without rinsing the blender, scoop in half of the chiles, measure in 1/2 cup of the soaking liquid, blend to a smooth puree, then pour into another bowl. Repeat with the remaining chiles and another 1/2 cup of the soaking liquid.
2. From four purees to mole. In a very large (8- to 9-quart) pot (preferably a Dutch oven or Mexican cazuela), heat 3 tablespoons of the lard or oil (some of what you used for the chiles is fine) and set over medium-high heat. When very hot, add the tomato puree and stir and scrape (a flat-sided wooden spatula works well here) for 15 to 20 minutes until reduced, thick as tomato paste, and very dark (it’ll be the color of cinnamon stick and may be sticking to the pot in places). Add the nut puree and continue the stirring and scraping until reduced, thick and dark again (this time it’ll be the color of black olive paste), about 8 minutes. Then, as you guessed it, add the banana-spice puree and stir and scrape for another 7 or 8 minutes as the whole thing simmers back down to a thick mass about the same color it was before you added this one.
Add the chile puree, stir well and let reduce over medium-low heat until very thick and almost black, about 30 minutes, stirring regularly (but, thankfully, not constantly). Stir in the remaining
7 cups of broth, the chocolate and avocado leaves (if you have them), partially cover and simmer gently for about an hour, for all the flavors to come together. Season with salt and sugar (remembering that this is quite a sweet mole and that sugar helps balance the dark, toasty flavors). Remove the avocado leaves.
In batches in a loosely covered blender, puree the sauce until as smooth as possible, then pass through a medium-mesh strainer into a large bowl.
3. Finishing the dish. Return the mole to the same pot and heat it to a simmer. Nestle the leg-and-thigh quarters of the chicken into the bubbling black liquid, partially cover and time 15 minutes, then nestle in the breast quarters, partially cover and simmer for 20 to 25 minutes, until all the chicken is done.
With a slotted spoon, fish out the chicken pieces and transfer them to a large warm platter. Spoon a generous amount of the mole over and around them, sprinkle with the reserved sesame seeds and set triumphantly before your lucky guests.
Advance Preparation: The mole can be completed through Step 2 several days ahead (it gets better, in fact); cover and refrigerate. Completele Step 3 shortly before serving.
VARIATIONS AND IMPROVISATIONS: Chilhuacle chiles are very difficult to find unless you’re in Oaxaca (even then they’re sometimes hard to obtain). Without them you can make a very respectable black mole with 6 ounces (12 total) dried mulato chiles, 2 1/2 ounces (8 total) dried pasilla chiles and 1 ounce (4 total) dried guajillo chiles.

Sonoma’s Lunch Aquatic: Pool, river & waterside dining

nickscove.jpgThere are few better dining companions than water — running, tinkling, crashing or merely reflecting brilliantly — it’s a built in backdrop and entertainment that turns even every day food into an event.
With the big, golden orb suddenly reappearing in the sky (after how many months of rain?) it suddenly seems like a good time to head outside again and enjoy some poolside, oceanside or riverside dining.
Here are some top spots for dipping your toes in while nibbling away the day…
Snuggle up to a serious burger and local brew at Petaluma’s riverside favorite: Dempsey’s.  The outdoor patio is has a tableside view to the local river, which babbles and laps along quietly as you eat. 50 East Washington Street, Petaluma, 765-9694.
Across the river, Water Street Bistro continues to be a favorite breakfast and
lunch spot for locals, with Parisians bistro-inspired daily specials, solid soups, fresh bread, and a homemade touch to everything. The cozy outdoor patio overlooks the water, but bring a jacket because it can sometimes get chilly! 100 Petaluma Blvd North, Petaluma, 763-9563.
A bit more upscale is Calistoga’s Sol Bar, the in-house restaurant for the Solage Spa. But don’t expect just iced tea and lettuce here, Gary Danko-alum Brandon Sharp oversees a ying-yang menu that respects the health-consciousnesss of the spa-set (beet and orange salad, tuna carpaccio, grilled salmon) while also offering heartier fare after a long day of poolside lounging (confit of foie gras, pork belly, shortribs). The zen-like surroundings will put you at peace while the kitchen feeds your soul. 755 Silverado Trail, Calistoga, 226-0850.
Located in Sonoma’s the swank El Dorado Hotel, El Dorado Kitchen is tops for cocktail hour nibbles and drinks. Head out to the garden courtyard for a poolside retreat with seasonal juice martinis (berry cosmo, peach jalapeno) and tasty bar bites. 405 First Street West, Sonoma, 996-3030.
Under the radar is the Water Tower Restaurant at the ultra-luxe Fairmont Sonoma Misison Inn. Whether you’re post-peel or just relaxing by the pool (you can buy a day pass to use the facilities if you’re not a guest), there’s plenty to love about the fresh salads, wraps, burgers bbq pork and frothy cocktails. 100 Boyes Blvd. (Greger St.), Sonoma, 938-9000.
Don’t let it’s shabby looks deceive you. Inside the Marshall Store oyster shack are some of the best oysters to be found in the area. Barbequed, Rockefellered or raw (or all three), they’re prepared while you wait and served up with hearty local bread for dipping all that juice. And the best part? The view is free. Located on Highway 1 in Marshall, Open seven days a week, 10am to 6pm.
Nearby, if you’re feeling adventurous (and have made a reservation well in advance) Hog Island Oysters sells fresh-from-the-bay oysters onsite and has a popular picnic spot right on the bay for grilling them up yourself. Not lucky enough to get a picnic spot, it’s worth crunching over the oyster shells in the parking lot and stopping in just to see the “Farm” where the oysters spend their last 24 hours in huge tanks getting cleaned. Note: You can’t buy prepared oysters here (aw shucks!)
The Farm: Open Tuesday through Sunday from 9am to 5pm; located on Highway 1 in Marshall, about 15 minutes north of Point Reyes Station and
45 minutes south of Bodega Bay. (415) 663-9218.
Sea Ranch: There’s no quick way to get to this remote ocean-side resort, so chances are you’ll be starving by the time you arrive. About thirty miles north of Jenner, along scenic Highway 1, Sea Ranch Lodge hugs the rugged northern California coastline, offering panoramic views from the restaurant and more casual solarium. If you’re just stopping by, grab an exceptional burger from the tavern menu and warm up in the bar. Overnight guests and residents of the seaside community can linger at the white-linen restaurant for grilled pork chops, rib eye and local seafood. Highway 1, Sea Ranch, 785-2371.
Cafe les Jumelles, recently relocated to the charmingly ramshackle riverside restaurant formerly known as Nit’s Thai, is a morning beacon for locals and weekenders looking to recharge. Huevos rancheros and omelets are top vote-getters, along with the banana split. Don’t expect to eat and run, however. Here things go at their own pace and everyone knows that you’ll get your breakfast when you get it. Consider the wait part of the charm. 15025 River Road, Guerneville, 869-9511.

Wine Country Farmers Markets Guide

Santa Rosa Farmers Market
Sonoma County Farmer’s Markets


Santa Rosa Farmers Market
Sonoma County Farmer's Markets

(Year-Round) Santa Rosa Farmers Market – Veteran’s Building:  One of the county’s biggest and best markets. Year round, Saturday mornings from 8am to noon.
(Seasonal) Santa Rosa Wednesday Night Farmers Market, late May through September, Wednesday nights from 5 to 8:30pm.
(Seasonal) Sebastopol Farmers Market: Town Square, April through November, Sunday from 10am to 1pm.
(Seasonal) Healdsburg Certified Farmers Market: Vine & North St., May through November, Sat., 9am to noon; Tuesdays in the Plaza from 4-6:30pm, June through October.
(Year-Round) Sonoma Farmers Market: Year round, Friday, 9am to noon in Depot Park
(Seasonal) Windsor Farmers market: May through December, 10am to 1pm, May through Nov.; Thursday nights 5-8pm on the Town Green, June through September.
(Seasonal) Petaluma Farmers Market: May through October, Saturdays, 2-5pm, Walnut Park.
(Seasonal) Rohnert Park Farmers Market: New for 2010! Friday nights from 5 to 8pm, June 4 through late September. Parking lot adjoining the library and City Center Plaza.
(Seasonal) Occidental Farmers Market: Downtown Occidental, Fridays from June through October, 4pm to dusk.
(Seasonal) Cotati Farmers Market: La Plaza Park, Thursday nights from June thoruigh October from 4:30pm to Dusk.
(Year Round) Marin Farmers Markets: Marin Civic Center (the largest farmer’s market in the North Bay), 8am to 1pm Sunday through Thursday, year-round; Novato Tuesday May through September from 4-8pm.
(Seasonal) Occidental Bohemian Farmers Market: Downtown Occidental, Fridays from June-October 4pm to dusk.

Secret Yucatan Supper Club: Tendejon de la Calle


Chef Mateo Granados is behind the range of the next big thing in Wine Country: A pop-up eatery devoted to modern Yucatan cuisine. In a barn. In a vineyard.
And that’s all I can tell you.
Because I definitely don’t want anyone to know the Dry Creek supper club location is actually an unused wine warehouse where Mateo and his crew load in an entire kitchen (range, prep tables and food) twice a week in preparation for feeding 40+ diners.
With no markings or signs to the spot, the hand-written menu board inside the barn becomes a natural gathering spot, with folks conspiratorially congratulating themselves for being in on the secret with sniffing the meaty smells from the kitchen.
Once you’ve gotten your bearings, there’s plenty of assistance available to decipher exotic cooking terms and ingredients sourced almost
entirely from small-scale local farmers. The menu changes up as frequently as the guest list, but the concept remains the same: Mateo’s
tried-and-true family recipes given a Wine Country facelift.
Hailing from the Yucatan peninsula, his dishes combine influences from Spain and
the ancient Mayans to compliment the produce and meats of Sonoma County.
Chew on this recent offering: Oaxacan green corn savory atole (a sort of corn porridge) with Spring ranch eggs, and roasted asparagus; spring
garlic soup with ancho chili and house-cured pork belly;
grilled fava bean salad with Full Circle ciabatta, Bohemian Creamy Romero cheese and
balsamic vinegar; Salmon Creek Ranch duck chiccaron with strawberry rhubarb salsa fresca and Mayan tortilla; Bolinas halibut with El Yuca
aoili; and local rabbit and quail with favas.
The deets: Meals are served restaurant-style (meaning waitstaff take your order and bring your plates to you). Guest chefs sometimes show up
to help in the kitchen, but you’re just as likely to find local chefs and cooks of all stripes sitting across from you at the table
(they’re
especially keen on sharing tastes). Drinks are strictly BYOB, along with glassware), so bring a bottle to share, and don’t skimp because you’ll also likely be sitting next to a few winemakers cracking out their wares. Expect to get to know your table-mates. Chances are they’re as giddy to be here are you are. Kids are welcome to join in.
At the end of the night, everything’s packed up and carted away, leaving behind nothing but the million-dollar vineyard views.
But I’ve said too much. The rest is up to you to figure out.
Tendejon de la Calle, weekly on Wednesday and Thursday evenings from 5pm
until dusk. Invites available only by email list or by calling
623.5474. Entrees $16-$19 each, appetizers $8-$12. Cash and local checks
only. BYOB and glasses

Sonoma County’s Fermentable Feast: Not Rotten, Just Robust

cabbagesauerkraut.jpg

Don’t miss the third annual Freestone Fermentation Festival in Freestone on Saturday, May 21, 2011. The event brings together fermenters of all stripes with demos, sampling and live entertainment.
Fermentation celebs Sandor Katz and brewmaster Dr. Charles Bamforth and Osmosis’ Michael Stusser will participate in a Symposium and Fermentation Feast hosted by Chef John Ash on Friday.
More details, ticket info and directions online.

Balancing the razor thin line between delicious and rotten are a whole category of foods that fizz, stink and ooze their way to ripe and robust splendor.
Defined politely as “fermented”, this process of controlled spoilage isn’t necessarily pretty, but can result in complex, rich complicated flavors (think ripe Camembert or fiery kimchi) and some pretty heady health claims. Not to mention the current darlings of nouveau homesteaders and retro-granny hipsters who are canning and pickling anything not tied down.
What’s all the hoopla? Touted by some as the next superfood, health promises of fermented food range from better digestion to improved metabolism and cancer-fighting properties.
Staples of our ancestral pantries, this funky process was one of the only pre-refrigeration ways to preserve food, resulting in cheese, sour cream, cured meats, beer, wine, bread, vinegar, fish sauce, pickled foods, miso, kimbucha and soy sauce among others.
Serious props to Korean guy nominated to take the first bite of the cabbage someone had buried underground and let ripen for a few months.
“It can be a little scary to people,” says Santa Rosa registered dietician and teacher Jill Nussinow (aka The Veggie Queen).  Many of our natural defenses tell us to steer clear of foods that look, taste and smell, well, putrid. For good reason — they make us sick.
But properly done, fermentation slows or halts food from rotting, holding it at a place where good bacteria overcome the bad stuff and make for healthy fare.

kimchi1.jpgNutritionists say raw fermented foods have the most beneficial health qualties, but a variety of foods (even some you might not suspect) are actually fermented at some point. Milk products in the US are pasteurized before the live cultures are added.
Live Fermented Foods

  • Kefir
  • Kimchi
  • Kombucha
  • Sauerkraut
  • Pickles
  • Tempeh
  • Sour cream, yogurt, buttermilk
  • Unpasteurized aged Cheese
  • Unpasteurized beer

Other foods that ferment with the help of bacteria

  • Charcuterie
  • Wine
  • Beer
  • Vanilla
  • Ginger Beer
  • Fish Sauce
  • Soy Sauce
  • Vinegar
  • Bread
  • Chocolate
  • Tea
  • Coffee
  • Miso

“Here’s why fermented foods are important right now: A lot of people take antibiotics…they’re even in our food and water supply, and that kills the good flora in our guts. Along with all the processed white foods we eat, we just don’t get a lot of good bacterial growth in our bodies,” Nussinow said.
Why do you want that? Fermented foods are natural probiotics, meaning they help grow that natural bacteria inside us. The human body works better when certain types of “friendly” bacteria flourish in our digestive system, helping to break down foods and flush out the system. In others words, it’s what helps move you.
And when it comes to health benefits (and note, not everyone is on the fermented bandwagon…some folks think rotten is just plain rotten) the raw stuff packs the biggest probiotic body punch. Cooking, heating and pasteurization can kill the good bacteria that nutritionists are so fond of.
Wanna take the plunge? Go local and dive into Sonoma County’s own fermentable feast.
Kombucha: A fermented tea long-revered for its healing properties in Asia and Russia, Kombucha is the it-drink of 2010. Lightly carbonated, it has a tart, slightly yeasty flavor that takes a little getting used to, along with the “floaties” of culture that need to be shaken up before drinking. The caffeine and corn syrup-free body buzz they live you with makes any trepidation short-lived.
– Vibranz Kombucha: Juice know-how from the former Sonoma Sparkler crew makes these fizzy drinks an easy-approach for newcomers. Made in Healdsburg with organic flavors like raspberry, ginger-lemon and mango. Vibranzbev.com, available at Whole Foods, Pacific Market, Molsberry’s.
– Lonjevitea: A double punch of yerba-mate tea and kombucha is the formula for 20-somethings Mollie Sitkin and Michaela Biaggi’s Petaluma-based probiotic tea business.  Local juices flavor their Gravenstein apple, chamomile and ginger kombucha. Available at Whole Foods. lonjeviteakombucha.com.
Kimchi: Raging through food circles as the condiment of the moment, this Korean national food is usually a combination of cabbage, chilies, sugar, vinegar, garlic and radishes fermented for days or weeks. Or more. Good for newbies is Wild Rose Ranch’s mild and tangy version. ($7 at the Santa Rosa Saturday farmer’s market)
Homemade Sauerkraut & Pickles: Dave Ehreth is the pickle king of Sonoma County, creating converts daily with addictively delish Alexander Valley Gourmet pickles and sauerkraut. The unpasteurized Manhattan-style pickles have a blend of nine spices, fresh garlic and sea salt. And hot dogs scream for his tart raw sauerkraut. Available at Oliver’s, Whole Foods markets, Jimtown Store.
Winning top honors at the 2011 Good Food Awards was Sebastopol’s Ceres Community Project’s Arame & Ginger Sauerkraut Salad. More than just a tasty side dish, fermented cabbage is said to have restorative and health benefits for the digestive system — something especially important for Ceres’ clientele. Using ingredients from organic local producers like Tierra Vegetables and First Light Farms, Ceres brings together teen cooks and local volunteers to prepare healthy, organic meals for individuals and families struggling with cancer.
natto.jpgNatto: This traditional Japanese health food is for the adventurous eater.  These fermented soybeans have a stringiness that pulls melted taffy and piping hot mozzarella to shame, leaving little cobwebs trailing from every bite. And the ripe smell is well, unforgettable (even more so if you get the stuff on your hands). But the health-qualities of this raw fermented food include antioxidants, protein, amino acids and is said to help alleviate hot flashes during menopause. Magumi Natto, made in Sebastopol, has a milder flavor than frozen, imported versions. Available at the Santa Rosa Community Market, Andy’s Produce.
Kefir: A cousin to yogurt, kefir has additional strains of good bacteria that really go to work on the old digestive tract. With smaller (easier to eat) curds than regular yogurt, this tart, smoothie-like drink comes in both goat and cow-style, here in Sonoma County. Redwood Hill Farm’s goat milk kefir comes in mango orange pinapple, plain and blueberry pomagranate. Available at most local grocers. Clover Organic Farms is also in on the kefir action with pomagrante strawberry acai, plain, mango orange pineapple and blueberry. Available at G&G Market.

Goji Kitchen | Santa Rosa

Goji Kitchen’s pho ga, chicken noodle soup.

For more than a decade, Goji Kitchen, has ranked among the best Asian kitchens in Sonoma County. It’s one of my favorites too, especially for walnut prawns.

The Santa Rosa JC-neighborhood restaurant serves a mix of Chinese, Thai and Vietnamese dishes, featuring bbq short ribs, clay pot rice, orange peel sesame chicken, spring rolls, pho and more than 40 others, including Wor Wonton soup. Ingredients are high-quality and include plenty of vegetarian options.

Locals tend to order takeout here, though the dining room is a comfortable modern and minimal, space with the tinkling fountain keeping the whole experience very zen-like.

Goji Kitchen, 1965 Mendocino Ave, Santa Rosa, gojikitchen.com/dinner-menu