Flappers’ gowns rippled and the chrome on ostentatiously elegant, pre-Depression automobiles shone on the manicured grounds of Santa Rosa’s grandest old estate for the Gatsby Gala.

It was a playful, retro night of amusement and a social triumph for the sponsoring Sonoma County chapter of NAMI, the National Alliance on Mental Illness.

The owners of McDonald Avenue’s exquisite Mableton, or McDonald Mansion, dressed in their 1920s best and greeted the Sept. 21 gala’s 150 guests. Bartenders from Stark’s Steakhouse and Jackson’s Bar and Oven poured modern interpretations of Prohibition-era, perfectly chilled contraband.

After dinner came timeless lemon-chiffon cake and music, which drew guests onto the dance floor and back to a fleetingly gilded age.

 

 

Auteur Wines, 373 First St. West, Sonoma, 707-938-9211, auteurwines.com
In a little cottage off the Sonoma Plaza, Auteur offers intimate seated tastings of five of its exquisite wines, by appointment daily. The brand of winemaker Kenneth Juhasz, who also consults for The Donum Estate, Auteur is all about vineyard-designated Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from Sonoma and Mendocino counties.

Banshee Wines, 325 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-395-0915, bansheewines.com
One of the newer additions to Healdsburg’s downtown wine-tasting scene, Banshee has created a cozy enclave of wine and art, open into the evenings for lounging. Wines are available by the glass and bottle at retail prices; more formal tastings are available, paired with bites from Healdsburg Shed.

Benovia Winery, 3339 Hartman Road, Santa Rosa, 707-526-4441, benoviawinery.com
In the heart of the Russian River Valley, Benovia is open daily by appointment only, but worth the call to visit and taste current-release Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel and Grenache made from several estate-managed vineyards.

Bella Vineyards & Wine Caves, 9711 West Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 866-572-3552, bellawinery.com
Duck into Bella’s cozy caves to taste, and on the weekends, enjoy small bites from the winery’s stellar chef, Bruce Frieseke. Cave and vineyard tours can be arranged by appointment with one week’s notice.

Buena Vista Winery, 18000 Old Winery Road, Sonoma, 800-926-1266, buenavistawinery.com
Historic Buena Vista has refashioned its wine caves into a darkened, romantic spot for barrel tasting and touring, and a section of the cave can be reserved for private, by-appointment tastes of library wines and barrel samples. Don’t miss the Champagne Cellars (kid-friendly and there is no charge) where the winery’s history can be further explored.

Chateau St. Jean, 8555 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, 707-833-4134, chateaustjean.com
With plenty of food and gifts to buy from its well-stocked tasting room, the best reason to visit this venerable winery right now is that it’s celebrating 40 years of producing its Bordeaux-style blend, Cinq Cepages; the 2010 vintage has just been released. Every January, the winery hosts a popular Crab and Chardonnay party. Sign up soon.

DeLoach Vineyards, 1791 Olivet Road, Santa Rosa, 707-526-9111, deloachvineyards.com
Producer of predominantly Russian River Valley Pinot Noir and Zinfandel, DeLoach affords visitors the opportunity to learn the philosophies of Biodynamic farming and take part in two unique experiences available daily. The M.F.S. Blending Experience ($100) is a 90-minute lesson in blending, bottling and labeling your own Pinot Noir. The Magic of Wine and Mustard ($40) explores the history of mustard in Burgundy, France, and includes a stroll through the vineyard and garden, the chance to make your own mustard from Dijon seeds, and a pairing of mustard-inspired food with a flight of DeLoach wines.

Dutcher Crossing Winery, 8533 Dry Creek Road, Geyserville, 866-431-2711, dutchercrossingwinery.com
This quiet, comforting winery with a fireplace in its tasting room, overlooks its own magnificent Dry Creek Valley vineyards, and produces a slew of fine wines, from Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon to port and Petite Sirah. You might find winery dog Dutchess lounging near the fire or hanging out in the garden picnic grounds.

Fritz Underground Winery, 24691 Dutcher Creek Road, Cloverdale, 707-894-3389, fritzwinery.com
Step into Fritz’s subterranean winery, complete with warming fireplace, and enjoy its red blends, award-winning Zinfandels, fine estate rosé and late-harvest wines. By reservation, winemaker Brad Longton will even show you how to blend your own Pinot Noir ($175 a person).

Handley Cellars, 3151 Highway 128, Philo, 707-895-3876, handleycellars.com
The stomping ground of Mendocino County wine pioneer Milla Handley, Handley Cellars is the place to taste Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel and Alsatian varietals, including Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer. The tasting room includes Handley’s impressive collection of international folk art. The first weekend of every month takes a page from her collection, offering “Culinary Adventures,” a pairing of Asian, African and New World cuisine with her wines.

Harmonique Wines, 14501 Highway 128, Boonville, 707-895-9300, harmoniquewine.com
Recently opened by owners Bruce and Moira Conzelman to celebrate the release of three aged Pinot Noirs made by winemaker Robert Klindt, the Harmonique tasting room is within the John Hanes Fine Art Gallery, across from the Boonville Hotel. Enjoy the winery’s 2007 Delicacé Pinot Noir from the Ferrington Vineyard, 2007 The Noble One Pinot Noir from the Klindt and Wiley vineyards, or 2007 Elegancé Pinot Noir, a blend from all three vineyards. The winery also offers an unoaked Chardonnay.

Hartford Family Winery, 8075 Martinelli Road, Forestville, 707-887-8030, hartfordwines.com
Tucked away in the woods, Hartford is a consistent high-quality producer of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and old-vine Zinfandel, sourcing grapes from the Green Valley sub-appellation of the Russian River Valley where it is based, and from other cool locales such as Anderson Valley. Seated in-depth tastings, including some with food pairings, can be arranged by appointment.

J Vineyards & Winery, 11447 Old Redwood Highway, Healdsburg, 707-431-5400, jwine.com
A glass of bubbly is always a good thing, and this is a well-appointed spot at which to have it, as well as taste J’s Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, and the very rare J Pear Liqueur. The J Bubble Room will pair wines with exquisite, locally sourced dishes.

Joseph Phelps Freestone Vineyards, 12747 El Camino Bodega, Freestone, 707-874-1010, josephphelps.com
On the way to the coast, Freestone Vineyards makes what you would expect — cool-climate Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays — and the tasting room will also pour selections from parent winery Joseph Phelps Vineyards, the Napa Valley producer of Cabernet Sauvignon and the famous Insignia proprietary red blend. On the second Sunday of every month, Freestone features local foods paired with the Sonoma Coast and Napa Valley wines.

Ladera Vineyards, 150 White Cottage Road South, Angwin, 707-965-2445, laderavineyards.com
Ladera is on the site of one of Napa Valley’s “ghost” wineries — an 1886 stone building built for gravity-flow winemaking. The Howell Mountain producer offers daily tastings of its current-release wines, as well as two-hour estate tours (11 a.m. and 2 p.m.) that delve deeply into the winery’s history, vineyards and wine caves.

Lambert Bridge, 4085 West Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-431-9600, lambertbridge.com
Lambert Bridge offers comfort and warmth in the wintertime, with a fieldstone fireplace roaring in the redwood-paneled tasting room. Then there are the dogs, a motley crew usually on hand, and the Barrel Room Wine and Food Pairings, during which Lambert Bridge’s richly elegant Cabernet Sauvignons and Zinfandels are poured with seasonal bites to match. Do a Signature Tasting on the weekend and you’ll be seated in the candlelit barrel room for a sampling of five small-lot wines.

Landmark Wine, 101 Adobe Canyon Road, Kenwood, 707-833-0053, landmarkwine.com
In the shadow of Sugarloaf Ridge State Park, Landmark makes Chardonnay (including the famous Overlook bottling) and Pinot Noir, and is increasingly becoming known for its Rhone-inspired reds, including Syrah and Grenache. In addition to its tasting room, the winery offers picnic spots and bocce courts.

Merry Edwards Winery, 2959 Gravenstein Highway North, Sebastopol, 707-823-7466, merryedwards.com
Winemaker Merry Edwards is a pioneer in Russian River Valley Pinot Noir, excelling at coaxing rich berry flavor and voluptuous texture from the grapes. She also produces some of the best Sauvignon Blanc in the state, and has recently added Chardonnay to her lineup. Don’t miss the opportunity to discover her skill and view some of the vineyards surrounding the winery.

Odette Estate, 5998 Silverado Trail, Napa, 707-224-7533, odetteestate.com
Owned by the PlumpJack Winery guys (Gordon Getty, Gavin Newsom and John Conover), Odette is in Napa Valley’s Stags Leap District and on the path to becoming LEED-certified. With 18,000 square feet of caves, some of the first modern versions dug in Napa Valley, Odette makes for an intriguing visit, with great Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines on offer.

Partake by K-J, 241 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-433-6000, partakebykj.com
This is a novel concept in tasting rooms, in that Partake is as much about the food (much of it sourced from the Jackson Estate’s gardens and orchards) as it is the wine itself. Take advantage of this delightful concept and step in for seasonal bites made to match specific flights of wine, from Sauvignon Blanc to dessert wines and lots in between. Reservations are recommended.

Paul Mathew Vineyards, 9060 Graton Road, Graton, 707-865-2505, paulmathewvineyards.com
This tiny operation produces Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, as well as the much rarer Valdiguie, a light-bodied red akin to Napa Gamay and sourced from the Turner Vineyard in Knights Valley. Also look for the winery’s ongoing schedule of Foodies Seminars, events held once a month with a focus on local food and wine.

Porter Creek Vineyards, 8735 Westside Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-6321, portercreekvineyards.com
Here is an old-school tasting room in terms of its simplicity, but there’s nothing simple about Porter Creek’s wines, which are intriguing and complex, made from organically grown grapes from hillside vineyards. In addition to Russian River Valley Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, enjoy Viognier, Carignane, Syrah and Zinfandel.

Ram’s Gate, 28700 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, 707-721-8700, ramsgate
winery.com Ram’s Gate was designed for lingering, with a host of spacious sitting areas, many of which are grouped around a fireplace. Then there’s the food, prepared to order by the on-staff chef for seated, guided tastings. Order a picnic lunch to take into the vineyard or out by the pond. The wines alone are a reason to stay, a collection of single-vineyard Pinot Noir, Syrah, Chardonnay and even a brut bubbly.

Red Car Wine, 8400 Graton Road, Sebastopol, 707-829-8500, redcarwine.com
Open daily, Red Car is a sweet spot to taste Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah, and a particularly good choice in winter. With inspired labels on many of its bottles, look for its The Fight Syrah, made from Gray’s Town Vineyard in the Sonoma Coast appellation, close to the winery; it’s a gorgeous expression of earthy mushroom, blueberry and dark chocolate.

Ridge Vineyards / Lytton Springs, 650 Lytton Springs Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-7721, ridgewine.com
The mighty Ridge is a perfect place to stop in winter, for its structured Zinfandels and Cabernet Sauvignons that are worth seeking out for occasions special and not. The tasting room is open daily, but reserve ahead for a Century Tour and Library Tasting, which might include an older vintage of Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon, Ridge’s most famous wine.

Saracina Vineyards, 11684 Highway 101, Hopland, 707-744-1671, saracina.com
John Fetzer and his wife, Patty Rock, have created a lovely destination getaway on the outskirts of Hopland. Practitioners of biodiversity, they have 600 acres that include grapevines, olive groves and ponds, and the cave is a cozy option for tasting the wines in winter. Bottlings include Malbec, Petite Sirah and an Anderson Valley Pinot Noir.

Schramsberg Vineyards, 1400 Schramsberg Road, Calistoga, 800-877-3623, schramsberg.com
Among the first in California to specialize in sparkling wine, Schramsberg occupies hallowed, historic ground, home to the oldest hillside vineyards in Napa Valley and some of the first caves dug for storing and aging wine. Take a tour by appointment, and don’t miss the Mirabelle Brut Rosé and other gorgeous sparklers before moving on to taste the J. Davies Estate Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir.

Stonestreet Alexander Mountain Estate, 7111 Highway 128, 707-473-3333, stonestreetwines.com
Located near Alexander Valley’s popular Jimtown Store, Stonestreet excels in mountain-grown Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, and invites visitors to taste through its single-vineyard bottlings. Carve out extra time to take the two-hour Mountain Excursion and Picnic ($90; 10:30 a.m. Friday, Saturday and Sunday), a revelatory traipse through Stonestreet’s 6,000-acre estate, with lunch and wine.

Thomas George Estates, 8075 Westside Road, Healdsburg, 707-431-8031, thomasgeorgeestates.com
Set in a converted 1920s-era hop kiln, Thomas George specializes in Russian River Valley Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from specific, sought-after sites, and limited amounts of Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc, Zinfandel and Syrah. Expect to see dogs and sheep during your visit.

Tricycle Wine Partners, 23568 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, 707-255-4929, tricyclewineco.com
The newest addition to Cornerstone Gardens, Tricycle makes a range of high-quality wines, from its rich Obsidian Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon from Lake County, to Kazmer & Blaise Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Carneros, to the Molnar Family single-vineyard wines from Napa Valley.

Valdez Family Winery, 113 Mill St., Healdsburg, 707-433-3710, valdezfamilywinery.com
Ulises Valdez is a highly sought-after, Sonoma County-based vineyard manager with access to some mighty fine grapes, so it’s no wonder he’s now producing his own lineup of stellar wines, with a special focus and place in his heart for Zinfandel. If your own heart beats for Rockpile, don’t pass up the Valdez Botticelli Vineyard Zin, an excellent expression of the rocky appellation high above Lake Sonoma.

VJB Vineyards & Cellars, 60 Shaw Ave., Kenwood, 707-833-2300, vjb cellars.com
In an Italian-inspired, courtyard-centered villa in the heart of Sonoma Valley, VJB serves coffee and pastries in the morning, panini, pasta and pizza during the day, and samples of its Italian-inspired wines. The winery also stocks co-proprietor Maria Belmonte’s line of sauces, pestos and tapenades, and houses a shop for gelato and specialty chocolates.

Thanks to AMC’s retro TV show “Mad Men,” it’s hip to be square again. In Wine Country, pleasure-seekers of all ages are dressing up, sipping cocktails and stepping out to dinners that come with a twist: some kind of show.

More intimate than a restaurant and more social than a dinner party, the events are creative and theatrical.

Last fall, some 600 guests dressed all in white and gathered at Cornerstone Gardens in Sonoma for the first Pop-Up Dinner Wine Country. For the posh, Gatsby-style picnic, participants brought their own food and wine, plus over-the-top table decor. Then they danced the night away in a barn to the gypsy jazz of Dgiin.

“It’s not just a pop-up dinner, but a pop-up art installation,” said Nicole Benjamin, co-owner of Hand Made Events of Sonoma, which hosts the intimate dinners among strangers in cities across the country.

Part speakeasy, part Venetian carnival and part shabby-chic convention, the all-white dinners started in France in the 1980s and have since gained momentum, spreading from Nairobi to New York.

The parties offer something for everyone — food, wine, fashion, decor, music and a hint of mystique — while relying on the guests themselves to create the evening’s zeitgeist.

At Cornerstone Gardens, serious foodies warmed up gourmet dishes such as duck breast over Sterno, while a dozen Marilyn Monroe look-alikes imitated the fetching film star with glamorous white wigs.

The pop-up dinner will return to Wine Country this fall, in a new, secret location that will not be revealed until the last minute.

Those who can’t wait that long can head to Suite D in Sonoma, where Girl & The Fig restaurateur Sondra Bernstein and her chef and business partner, John Toulze, throw weekly pop-up dinners for 40 to 50 guests.

Each dinner offers a different theme, decor and menu, from Southern-style feasts to lobster bakes, with wine. Entertainment can include a flamenco guitarist, a Ping-Pong tournament or a caricaturist.

“It’s really quirky and fun,” Bernstein said. “It gives us a chance to do something we don’t normally do.”

Up north in Geyserville, Dino Bugica draws food lovers from far and near with his soulful, wood-fired Italian cooking at Diavola Pizzeria. Four times a year, Bugica also hosts the Diavola Supper Club, a pop-up dinner and dance that draws up to 120 guests to the Oddfellows Lodge above the restaurant.

It’s a grown-up affair for hipsters that offers a family-style meal, guest winemakers and brewers, and a live band with dancing into the wee hours.

Bring your own fedora and loud tie. “Mad Men” would approve.

Diavola Pizzeria, 21021 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707-814-0111,
diavolapizzeria.com

Hand Made Events, 974 First St. West, Sonoma, handmadeevents.com

Suite D, 21800 Schellville Road, Suite D, Sonoma, 707-933-3667, figsuited.com

JANUARY THROUGH APRIL
Whale Watching: In January, migrating gray whales head south from their feeding grounds in the frigid waters near Alaska to the subtropical waters of the lagoons and bays of Baja California. On weekends, whale fans gather at Bodega Head for a chance to see the majestic sea mammals. Once they arrive in the south, the whales mate and nurse their young. By April, pairs of cows and calves, which tend to travel closer to shore, can be spotted heading back north again.
Stewards of the Coast and Redwoods, 707-869-9177, stewardsofthecoastandredwoods.org

There aren’t many places in the world where winter road-trip options include snow, coast and a cosmopolitan city. But here we are, in the epicenter of optimal destinations, each one marked by equal parts physical beauty, smart sophistication and vibrant food scene. Take a break during Sonoma’s traditional quiet time and recharge in a new setting.

Marin Coast

Less than an hour’s drive from Santa Rosa, the coastline along Marin’s Point Reyes National Seashore is among the most beautiful in the world, dotted with beaches that are accessible, and some less so. The hillsides in wintertime are brilliantly verdant, and there are many warm, cozy corners in which to curl up against the storms. Dramatic trails and beaches are perfect places to feel nature’s moods.

The coastal region’s bounty of food and drink is as impressive as its beauty. The Point Reyes area sustains cows, sheep and goats for milk and cheese, grass-fed beef, fish and oysters, and several farmers markets’ worth of cool-climate produce. Coastal Marin is also viticulturally viable, with small plots of mostly Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vines. Point Reyes makes an ideal setting for a multiday or overnight stay organized around the one-road towns of Olema and Point Reyes Station, and the outcrops of Inverness and Marshall, set along Tomales Bay.

Where to Go:

Blue Waters Kayaking
Tomales Bay is ideal for kayaking, offering several places to launch, including at Nick’s Cove (officially known as the Miller County Park Boat Launch). Fifteen miles long, the bay offers plenty of room to paddle without having to tackle rough, open ocean. Blue Waters rents kayaks and standup paddleboards, and leads morning, sunset and full-moon paddle tours launching from Marshall and Inverness. Rentals start at $50, tours at $65.
60 Fourth St., Suite C, Point Reyes Station, 415-669-2600, bwkayak.com

Osteria Stellina
Located on the main drag in Point Reyes Station, Osteria Stellina serves gourmet Italian dishes with a Marin twist; freshly harvested ingredients include Drake’s Bay oysters, Bellwether Farms ricotta, Marshall Farm honey and Stellina farm baby lettuce. The zuppa del giorno (soup of the day) is a wintertime staple; so are the grilled cheese sandwiches on sourdough. Mains in winter focus on comforting Niman Ranch osso buco, braised chicken and Rossotti Ranch braised goat. The wine list reflects the best of Italy and Northern California.
11285 Highway 1, Point Reyes Station, 415-663-9988, osteriastellina.com

Sir and Star at The Olema
Within The Olema Inn, this restaurant represents the rebirth of Margaret Grade and chef Daniel DeLong, who for many years were the force behind Manka’s restaurant in Inverness before it burned down. They continue to operate Manka’s as a lodge. Anyone who had the exquisite experience of dining at Manka’s will find renewed hope here, where the inspiration for farm-fresh and foraged food continues as brilliantly as ever. Dinner only, Wednesday through Sunday, 5 p.m. to 9 p.m., with Saturday nights focused on a leisurely meal of small courses. Reservations encouraged.
10000 Sir Francis Drake Blvd., Olema, 415-663-1034, sirandstar.com

Manka’s Inverness Lodge
The lodge, which survived a 2006 fire that claimed Manka’s destination restaurant, remains among the most luxurious and quietly private places to stay. Breakfast is included, the well-appointed cabins have fireplaces and hot tubs, and the town of Inverness and the wild beaches of Point Reyes are nearby. Rates start at $215.
30 Callendar Way, Inverness, 415-669-1034, mankas.com

Hog Island Oyster Co.
The Boat, Hog Island’s on-site oyster bar, offers shucked oysters, raw and cooked, cheese, bread, beer and wine, with no reservations required. What will require a reservation is a picnic spot of one’s own for DIY shucking, complete with table, grill and tools. BYOB is fine, and there are plenty of beverages for sale at The Boat, including Marooned On Hog Island Oyster Stout. Oysters and shellfish are also sold to go.
20215 Highway 1, Marshall, 415-663-9218, hogislandoysters.com

Marin Sun Farms Butcher Shop and Restaurant
This sustainable meat purveyor, which sells at farmers’ markets throughout the Bay Area, is a great place to have a meal or purchase meat, eggs and charcuterie, and beef and chicken stocks. The menu is, of course, meat-obsessed, offering steaks, chops and burgers, including a goat burger with Laura Chenel Chèvre cheese. Open Thursday through Monday for lunch and sometimes dinner.
10905 Highway 1, Point Reyes Station, 415-663-1800, marinsunfarms.com

Cowgirl Creamery at Tomales Bay Foods
World-famous Cowgirl Creamery originally made all of its cheeses in this restored hay barn. Now it’s a shop for all things delicious, including, of course, the best selection of cheeses in town, from America and abroad. Local breads, sandwiches, salads and a rare collection of local wines complete the picture.
80 Fourth St., Point Reyes Station, 415-663-9335, cowgirlcreamery.com

Nick’s Cove
A waterside place to stay and eat, Nick’s is a series of cottages on stilts on Tomales Bay and below the road. There’s a cozy gourmet restaurant, oyster bar and watering hole within walking distance that’s reason alone to make the drive. With the same sustainable mentality that marks so much of Marin, Nick’s food is in keeping with the natural surroundings, the menu stocked with crab mac and cheese, crab cakes, crab Louis, crab risotto, clam chowder and plenty of oysters. Lodging rates start at just above $200 and are a better deal in winter, especially midweek.
23240 Highway 1, Marshall, 415-663-1033, nickscove.com

San Francisco

To be so close to such an urbane, food-oriented city is a blessing in Sonoma, and San Francisco can feel more like a part of our extended backyard than a separate place of its own. There is a defined thoroughfare between the two in terms of ingredients and frame of mind. Chefs, bartenders and wine buyers love having the connection to Sonoma, and Sonoma to them.

Whether it’s cozying up to a romantic Manhattan in a dark, timeless bar, hanging onto an F-line streetcar in the dark of a winter’s evening, or foraying into the shops and eateries that contribute to the national conversation on what constitutes inventive, a trip to the city is sure to open all the senses and remind that what is grown and harvested in Sonoma adds substantially to the fabric of a world-class, much-loved city.

Where to Go:

Dandelion Chocolate
Dandelion is San Francisco’s newest artisan chocolate maker, continuing a lineage that runs through Ghirardelli, Guittard and Recchiuti. From its hipster-detailed Mission District outpost, it makes the bars in full view of visitors, from melting to wrapping, with plenty of the finished product for sale, plus roasted cocoa beans and decadent baked goods.
740 Valencia St., San Francisco, 415-349-0942, dandelionchocolate.com

Bi-Rite Market and Bi-Rite Creamery & Bakeshop
One of the early pioneers of artisan food supplies, Bi-Rite in the Mission District is a cool place to browse and find picnic items and other goods to take home. It’s so devoted to new discoveries that the store also organizes farm tours (it operates its own organic farms in Sonoma, Placerville and San Francisco), classes and tastings. Committed to creating community as much as nourishing through food, Bi-Rite maintains a second San Francisco store (550 Divisadero, 415-551-7900) and two Creamery & Bakeshops, near both of its markets.
3639 18th St., San Francisco, 415-241-9760, biritemarket.com; 3692 18th St., San Francisco, 415-626-5600, biritecreamery.com

Ferry Building Marketplace
This Embarcadero emporium offers all one could possibly want to eat, with outposts such as Hog Island Oyster Co., Cowgirl Creamery, McEvoy Ranch Olive Oil and Gott’s Roadside. It’s also a place to discover new wines at the Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant, where food can be brought in to enjoy alongside a rotating selection of wines by the glass or bottle; vintner nights are frequent.
One Ferry Building, San Francisco, 415-983-8030, ferrybuildingmarketplace.com

Mandarin Oriental Hotel
Offering modern elegance in the heart of the Financial District, an easy walk to Chinatown, North Beach and the Embarcadero, the Mandarin Oriental boasts luxurious rooms with views of the bay or bridges. It’s also a must-stop for gin lovers; the gin and tonic-obsessed Bar at Brasserie S & P is a slice of heaven for the cocktail-erati. Rates start at $395.
222 Sansome St., San Francisco, 415-276-9888, mandarinoriental.com/sanfrancisco

SPQR
The second restaurant of the team that launched A16, SPQR in the Fillmore is sure to steal your heart if it hasn’t already; the Italian-inspired food is rendered in poetically perfect ways. Chef Matthew Accarrino deserves every accolade bestowed and many more. Do everything possible to order the smoked fettuccine with sea urchin, smoked bacon and soft quail egg, paired with something adventurous from owner Shelley Lindgren’s Italian wine list.
1911 Fillmore St., San Francisco, 415-771-7779, spqrsf.com

Tartine Bakery & Café
Another stalwart of the city’s rigorous attention to artisan detail, Tartine crafts outstanding bread and baked goods. Co-owner and baker Chad Robertson is a hero to many. Fresh-baked bread is available daily after 4:30 p.m., in time for dinner or overnight wrapping for the next day’s best-ever toast. The on-site café serves pastries, hot-pressed sandwiches and quiche, along with Four Barrel coffee and Niman Ranch meats. Lines out the door are routine.
600 Guerrero St., San Francisco, 415-487-2600, tartinebakery.com

Bar Agricole
South of Market, near the Slim’s nightclub owned by musician and Napa Valley vintner Boz Scaggs, Bar Agricole does food and booze equally well, with an emphasis on classic cocktails with an artisan twist. This means a drink like Ti Punch is made from rhum agricole, a species of rum made from fresh-pressed sugarcane instead of molasses, and meant to reflect the sugarcane’s terroir, much as wine shows its provenance.
355 11th St., San Francisco, 415-355-9400, baragricole.com

House of Air
Indulge your inner aerialist at this giant warehouse at the Presidio’s Chrissy Field, devoted to getting airborne via trampoline. Come just to bounce, or for workout classes, coaching sessions on how to master Olympic-level tuck jumps and pikes, better maneuver on skis and snowboards, or simply to release workweek tension through a game of trampoline dodgeball. Sessions start at $13.
926 Mason St., San Francisco, 415-345-9675, houseofair.com

Lake Tahoe

The ski slopes around Lake Tahoe are such an irresistible draw for Bay Area residents that they’ll happily sit in traffic for hours, slog on chains and tempt the fates of road closures, just to get in a day or two of snowboarding or skiing. But that’s not the only reason so many love Tahoe. It’s also because the year-round resort knows a thing or two about living the good life, offering adrenaline junkies a chance to slow down and refuel around a meal.

Where to Go:

The Ritz-Carlton, Lake Tahoe
Yes, it’s fancy and over-the-top luxurious, but the Ritz-Carlton in North Lake Tahoe also has as ace up its sleeve: Manzanita. The destination restaurant has a chef’s table for up to eight guests, who experience a “mountain-inspired California cuisine” tasting menu that’s crazy-good. In addition to a spa, hiking trails, fishing, children’s programs and championship golf, a new Backyard Bar & BBQ is being built. Rates start at $369.
13031 Ritz-Carlton Highlands Court, Truckee, 530-562-3000, ritzcarlton.com/en/properties/laketahoe

The Pour House
To stock up on fine wines, look no farther than this retail shop packed with bottles from the Old World and New, including Pinot Noirs from Saintsbury and Flowers, and selections from the nearby Sierra Foothills, such as the Donkey & Goat Five Thirteen Red Wine Blend from El Dorado. The store also carries collectibles it categorizes as “You Wish!” comprised of library wines such as the 1997 Opus One Cabernet blend. Best of all, the shop does daily tastings of two reds and two whites and will help with parties.
10075 Jibboom St., Truckee, 530-550-9664, thepourhousetruckee.com

Wilderness Adventures Dog Sled Tours
Admire the graceful choreography and poetic paw work of a team of eight to 12 huskies pulling a sled through the snowy mountains on this one-hour tour. Daily daytime and sunset tours are available, weather permitting, winter through spring, leaving from the Resort at Squaw Creek. Up to two adults and two children typically fit per sled. Rates start at $110 per person.
400 Squaw Creek Road, Olympic Valley, 530-550-8133, tahoedogsledtours.com

Petra
In the Village at Northstar, Petra is food, wine and people in equal proportions, featuring some 150 wine selections, winemaker dinners and happy hours daily from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. (two glasses of wine plus cheese for $20). The restaurant’s menu is organized around cheese, charcuterie and tapas.
3001 North Village Drive, Truckee, 530-562-0600, teloswine.com

PlumpJack Squaw Valley Inn
The PlumpJack Café at Squaw Valley continues where the beloved San Francisco institution left off, creating sumptuous plates for lunch and dinner that are meant to be enjoyed with wine, which is sold at retail prices. It’s a fun place with seasonal wine dinners a prominent part of the mix. On weekends, stay for Sunday Bloody Sunday, when Bloody Marys (Asian- and Southern-inspired) take on new meaning from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Rates start at $255.
1920 Squaw Valley Road, Squaw Valley, 530-583-1578, plumpjacksquawvalleyinn.com

Moody’s Bistro, Bar & Beats
Within the Truckee Hotel, Moody’s is both inspired eatery and live music hangout, where a plate of truffled deviled eggs or housemade corndogs with Coca-Cola ketchup makes perfect sense while a blues band plays. Thin-crust pizza, burgers, sandwiches and house-made pastas round out the standard offerings, while bison short ribs and Durham Ranch elk burger stand out as the not-in-Kansas-anymore choices. Wines on tap include J Pinot Gris and Qupé Syrah, and you can pillage Moody’s Cellar for a bottle of something rare. And be on the lookout: Paul McCartney has been known to show up unannounced and sing a few tunes.
10007 Bridge St., Truckee, 530-587-8688, moodysbistro.com