Page 47 – Sonoma Magazine

Matzo, Macaroons and More: Where to Eat for Passover in Sonoma County

April 2025

By Heather Irwin

Lambshank at Grossman’s Noshery & Deli in Santa Rosa is part of the Passover dinner available for pick up. (Grossman’s Noshery & Bar)

Making matzo (or matzah), the traditional unleavened crackers of Passover (April 12-20), is an 18-minute baking ballet for Amy Brown and Joe Wolf of Santa Rosa’s Marla Bakery.

“It’s a labor of love for Amy and I. We try to make it taste good and keep to traditions,” said Wolf.

According to ancient Jewish law, the clock begins ticking the moment water is added to flour, salt and olive oil. The dough must be mixed, hand-rolled and baked into lightly browned wafers within 18 minutes — the same amount of time it took the Israelites to make their swift escape from Egypt. No time for leavening, no time for intricate braids — just the essential life-sustaining carbohydrates needed for their long journey to Canaan.

Passover marks the anniversary of the Exodus. It’s a time when the Jewish community comes together to celebrate, give thanks and share meals with family and friends.

Joe Wolf and Amy Brow of Marla Bakery & Catering in Windsor, Calif. September 19, 2023. (Photo: Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine) — Joe Wolf and Amy Brow of Marla Bakery. Photo taken in 2023. (Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine)

During this time, leavened bread is forbidden and is replaced by matzo, which many have a love-hate relationship with. Its dry, cracker-like texture can leave your mouth feeling like the Sahara, but according to Wolf, adding olive oil makes Marla’s matzo more palatable. While they aren’t a kosher bakery, their matzo follows the traditional 18-minute preparation process and tastes good, he said.

“Passover is a time of celebration where we all come together and have a wonderful time,” said Wolf. “It’s a time to have fun and welcome people over to eat.”

Marla’s matzoth (plural of matzo) are available by preorder on their website, marlabakery.com, until 5 p.m. April 8 or, in limited amounts, at their shop (208 Davis St., Santa Rosa, 707-852-4091) from Friday, April 11, through Sunday, April 13. They’ll also have chocolate-dipped macaroons and a flourless chocolate torte for Passover.

More than matzo

Food is at the heart of the Passover celebration, beginning with the traditional Seder meal on April 12. Throughout the week, a variety of dishes are enjoyed, from brisket and lamb to matzo ball soup, smoked fish and macaroon cookies.

Though many Jewish families spend days preparing these meals, some Sonoma County restaurants and bakeries are doing the work for you.

Grossman's Passover — Lambshank at Grossman’s Noshery & Deli in Santa Rosa is part of the Passover dinner available for pick up. (Photo: Grossman’s)

Grossman’s Noshery & Bar

À la carte dinner, available for pickup April 12-20, includes brisket with potato leek latkes and horseradish cream, lamb shanks, chicken shawarma kebabs, a smoked meat board, smoked and pickled fish board, Sabich board (fried eggplant, falafel, tabbouleh, matzo crackers and condiments), pomegranate molasses roasted carrots, matzo ball soup and chocolate orange sesame macaroons. Order online at grossmanssr.com. 308 Wilson St., Santa Rosa, 707-595-7707

La Bodega

This Sebastopol restaurant will host a traditional Passover service with a Seder Plate and Feast from 6 p.m., Saturday, April 12, with matzo ball soup, saffron chicken, stuffed cabbage and a Jerusalem artichoke and shiitake mushroom cassoulet. $59 for adults and $29 for children under 12. Reservations required. The meal can also be ordered for take-and-bake. 2295 Gravenstein Highway South, Sebastopol, 707-827-1832, sonomawineshop.com

Drewish Deli

Pick up your Passover meal at Healdsburg’s favorite Jewish deli. The meal includes housemade brisket au jus, gefilte fish with horseradish aioli, Bubbie’s matzo ball soup, noodle kugel and flourless chocolate mini cakes. $189, available for pickup April 11-14. Also available à la carte. Preorder only. 11 Mitchell Lane, Healdsburg, 707-955-0600, drewishdeli.com

Fun Fact: The Seder dinner traditionally features three matzoth. One, called the afikomen, is broken into two pieces, and the larger half is hidden by an adult. Children then search the house to find it, and the one who locates it is rewarded a small prize for returning it.

Matzo

From Amy Brown of Marla Bakery.

Makes 12 matzo

2 pounds bread flour (7 1/2 cups)

2 tsp. salt

3 ounces olive oil

1 1/2 cup water

Sea salt to top

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. In a mixer, combine all ingredients (except for the sea salt for topping). Mix on low speed until well combined. Remove from the mixer and divide the dough into 12 equal balls. Cover the balls with a wet towel or plastic wrap. One by one, roll each ball as thin as possible on a lightly-floured, upside-down baking sheet. Sprinkle with sea salt and use a fork to dock the dough. Place the baking sheet in the oven and bake until crisp.

For more springtime celebrations in Sonoma County, check out dozens of local Easter happenings.

Modern Luxury Meets City Views in Hillside Sonoma Home

April 2025

By Karen Kizer

Great room. (Ned Bonzi / Sotheby’s International Realty)

A luxury home in the Sonoma hills — complete with distant San Francisco views — is available for sale. The new three-bedroom, three-bathroom, five-half-bathroom dwelling has a detached office or guest room. It sits on 15 wooded acres that include a pool and tennis court. The asking price is $12,000,000.

The modern building has three split-level stories of offset spaces that allow for rooftop patios on the second story. Bold brick-red siding accents the mostly white exterior and is repeated in the outdoor lounges and on the detached office.

Floor-to-ceiling windows and the open-concept layout allows for showstopping views throughout the home. The interior design’s clean lines and white interiors yield to the outdoor setting, but many indoor finishes provide a beautiful counterpoint.

Hillside Sonoma luxury home — Great room in hillside Sonoma home. (Ned Bonzi / Sotheby’s International Realty)

Amid tranquil whites and creams, there are saturated design surprises. Super knotty wood planks on the great room ceiling crown the airy space with rustic elegance. Walnut-stained shelves offer an all-over richness in the library, as do chocolate brown walls in the dining room. A sagey-gray tile backsplash and a teal upholstered banquette pop in the kitchen. A bathroom is accented via a pixelated floral backsplash made of white and ochre micro-mosaic tiles. Hanging teardrops of brass and glass create an unconventional room divider in a living room.

Amenities include a cabana, outdoor fireplace and spa perched high on an upper patio with valley views. The woodsy property also enjoys a meadow that is ready to become a vineyard, an event space or whatever the homeowners can envision.

For more information on this home at 17355 Norrbom Road in Sonoma, contact listing agent Holly Bennett, 707-484-4747, 707-935-2500, Holly.Bennett@Sothebys.Realty, Sotheby’s International Realty – Wine Country – Sonoma Brokerage, 793 Broadway, Sonoma, hollybennett.com

Newly Built Russian River Home Offers Airy Seclusion Among the Redwoods

April 2025

By Karen Kizer

Kitchen and great room. (Brian McCloud Photography)

A 2021 build brings modern style to a woodsy hillside in Guerneville. The two-bedroom, two-bathroom home and bunkhouse sit on nearly a quarter of an acre. The asking price is $795,000.

The 1,400-square-foot home has an expansive feel thanks to the open layout, two-story vaulted ceilings and generous windows and sliders. Stained wood planks along the ceilings top the look with a rustic coziness.

Russian River Guerneville home — Kitchen and great room in an airy Russian River home in Guerneville. (Brian McCloud Photography)

Russian River Guerneville home in the redwoods — Deck off the great room provides forest views from the Russian River home. (Brian McCloud Photography)

A wraparound redwood porch — accessible from all rooms and the bunkhouse — provides further immersion into the 360-degree forest views.

Other amenities include a jacuzzi and an unfinished basement ready for conversion into a movie room, workout studio or living space.

For more information on the home at 17783 Santa Rosa Ave. in Guerneville, contact listing agents Russ and Sandra White, 707-486-2131, Sonoma County Properties, 9056 Graton Road, Graton, russandsandra.com.

Legendary Underwood Bistro Serves up Worldly Surprises in Graton

April 2025

By Heather Irwin

Hat Yai Fried Chicken with sticky rice, cucumber salad and sweet + sour sauce with a Mucho Micho cocktail from Underwood Bar and Bistro Friday, March 21, 2025, in Graton. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Hidden deep within rural west county is a restaurant you’ve visited a hundred times or have never heard of.

Locally, it’s legendary, a longtime favorite of wine industry folk who stop in for a beer after a long day among the vines and barrels of Green Valley. No one bats an eye when someone wearing dusty boots and Carhartt pants walks through the door.

Underwood Bistro is part of the fabric of Graton, having weathered nearly 25 years in the volatile restaurant industry. Built on the bones of a former roadhouse and watering hole, it’s retained its familiar come-as-you-are charm. Once inside, however, diners are transported to a Parisian-style bistro with long banquettes, bentwood chairs, a nickel-topped bar and soft yellow lighting that gives it an all-day sunset glow.

Opened in 2001 by San Francisco transplant and former chef Matthew Greenbaum, the menu has always featured brasserie classics like French onion soup, steak frites, cauliflower gratin and duck leg confit. But the kitchen is equally adept at tapas-style Mediterranean dishes and maybe a surprise Thai dish or two in the last few years.

It’s never been easy to pinpoint Underwood’s exact focus — “global tapas” doesn’t do it justice — but more importantly, there are always familiar favorites to revisit. Open for dinner until 9:30 p.m. on Friday and Saturday, it’s also a rare late-night spot.

Underwood Bistro in Graton — Flat Iron Steak Frites with mushroom-shallot butter, arugula, chipotle steak sauce and frites from Underwood Bar and Bistro Friday, March 21, 2025, in Graton. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Chef Mark Miller has helmed the kitchen for 20 years, creating food that pairs perfectly with the region’s cool-climate Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays and adding his touches to the menu — most notably authentic Thai dishes.

On his first trip to Southeast Asia in the early 1990s, he fell in love with the hallmark sweet, sour and salty flavors of Thai cuisine — so much so that he began cooking in a Thai kitchen, learning how to make authentic curries, sauces and wok-fired dishes.

“I started going back every year — sometimes twice a year. Working in a Thai kitchen just changed me,” Miller said.

And while a few Thai dishes began appearing on the Underwood menu over the years, it wasn’t until COVID-19 that Thai cuisine became a secret specialty for in-the-know locals.

As restaurants shifted to takeout-only during the early months of the pandemic, Underwood moved to an all-Thai menu to simplify takeout. Cheeseburgers just don’t travel as well as pad Thai, said Miller. Locals not only loved it, they lined up for it.

“It just took off,” he said. With few choices for any type of Asian cuisine in west county, flavorful dishes like pad thai, crispy rice salad, Thai lettuce cups and Thai-style fried chicken gained a following.

In the years since, the Underwood menu has returned to its lineup of European tapas-style dishes — though Thai fan favorites have remained.

This year, he hopes to do a Thai pop-up featuring some of his favorite recipes, happy to have an excuse to fire up the wok and cook what he loves.

Pad Thai from Underwood Bar and Bistro Friday, March 21, 2025, in Graton. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Fun Fact: Pad thai is the number one seller among Thai dishes. “I’m not sure why, but we serve hundreds of them each week,” Miller said.

The Vibe: The bar is the heart of the restaurant and a great place to hang out if you’re going solo. The dining room is cozy, with tables for two and four — but it can get loud at night. The secluded outdoor patio is excellent for a lunch rendezvous or brunch with your dog.

The Food: Chou-fleur, a cauliflower gratin, is a must-try — even if you hate cauliflower. No one can hate that much butter and cheese on anything. Salads are a specialty, and they’re all worth trying. The French frisse aux lardons salad has bitter greens, a poached egg and pancetta. You can’t go wrong with entrées, but the pad grapao moo is excellent. This unique Thai dish has spicy ground pork, a fried egg, pungent fish sauce with lime juice and jasmine rice. Hat Yai fried chicken is a revelation.

Pad Grapao Moo with spicy stir fried ground pork, long beans, Thai-style fried egg, prik nam pla and jasmine rice from Underwood Bar and Bistro Friday, March 21, 2025, in Graton. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

The Perks: An excellent classic cocktail list.

The Tab: Appetizers are $12-$15, and with a cocktail are a nice light choice. Salads are $13 to $24, and entrées from $24 to $36 (steak is $55). The range of prices makes it affordable for most, but you can certainly splurge.

The Service: Overall excellent, with props to the bar staff. Wait times are reasonable, even on busy nights.

The Spot: 9113 Graton Road, Graton, 707-823-7023, underwoodgraton.com

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

Bohème Wines, an Unassuming Gem in Occidental, Offers Free Tastings

April 2025

By Tina Caputo

The Bohème Wines tasting room in Occidental. (Jerry Dodrill / Bohème Wines)

Named for the Bohemian Highway that twists and turns its way through Sonoma’s majestic Northern Coast Range of redwoods, Bohème Wines is an unexpected find in laid-back downtown Occidental. The winery specializes in fresh and focused Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, inspired by cool-climate Sonoma Coast vineyard sites.

The story

Kurt Beitler founded Bohème Wines in 2004, but his winemaking origin story begins decades earlier. As the grandson of Caymus Vineyards founder Charlie Wagner and the nephew of co-founder Chuck Wagner, Beitler spent his early years among the vines in Napa. Although his family moved to Oregon when Beitler was still a child, the vines — and his uncle Chuck — would eventually call him back to the North Coast.

Kurt Beitler, founder of Bohème Wines. (Jerry Dodrill / Bohème Wines) — Kurt Beitler, founder of Bohème Wines, in a foggy coastal vineyard. (Jerry Dodrill / Bohème Wines)

Beitler spent summers as a preteen working on the Caymus bottling line and in 1999, Wagner encouraged his nephew to pursue a career in winemaking. Beitler started in the vineyards, learning the intricacies of winegrowing, and found that he loved working outdoors and tending the vines. Still, he wasn’t a big wine drinker in those early days; it took a few special wines from the Sonoma Coast — including William Selyem’s Summa Vineyard Pinot Noir and Littorai wines from the late ’90s — to light the spark of inspiration.

In 2004, Beitler founded his own winery focused on cool-climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from four Sonoma Coast vineyards, including English Hill, Stuller, Taylor Ridge and Occidental Hills. He makes just 2,500 cases per year.

At English Hill Vineyard by the Sonoma Coast. (Jerry Dodrill / Bohème Wines)

The vibe

Bohème’s tasting room is set in a small storefront on Occidental’s Main Street, outfitted with a few tables and a leather sofa, plus a casual stand-up tasting bar. Stunning large-scale photos of Bohème’s fog-shrouded vineyards adorn the walls, hinting at hidden landscapes just up the road from the tasting room. When he’s not out in the vineyards, the affable Beitler can often be found pouring wines for guests.

On the palate

Though Beitler enjoyed bolder wines in his younger days — he grew up on Caymus, after all — he makes his own Pinot and Chardonnay in a more delicate and reserved style. Alcohol levels are kept on the modest side and the wines are fermented until no residual sugar remains.

A bottle of 2021 Bohème Wines English Hill Vineyard Chardonnay. (Bohème Wines)

A bottle of 2021 Bohème Wines Stuller Vineyard Pinot Noir. (Bohème Wines)

A standout for me is the 2021 English Hill West Sonoma Coast Chardonnay ($49), with its ocean-inspired minerality and floral notes. The 2021 Taylor Ridge Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($63) is another beauty, with a delicate profile that taps you on the shoulder and whispers of juicy pomegranates. The 2021 Stuller Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($63) is Bohème’s darkest Pinot, combining black fruits, earthy notes and complex tannins.

It’s common these days for Sonoma and Napa wineries to charge $50 or more for tastings, but Bohème doesn’t charge a thing. Beitler said he appreciates that people want to come in and sample his wines, and he wouldn’t feel right asking them to pay for it. Besides, he said, “Occidental is just not that kind of place.”

The Grove of Old Trees, an old-growth redwood grove with walking trails, near Occidental. (Alvin Jornada/The Press Democrat)

Beyond the bottle

Get a taste of the redwoods near Bohème with a hike at the Grove of Old Trees. This lovely old-growth Coast Redwood forest was set to be cut down in the 1990s before the LandPaths conservancy saved it from the saw. Now visitors can explore an easily accessible network of paths and trails in this privately owned grove.

3625 Main St., Occidental, 707-887-2287. Open from noon to 6 p.m. Thursday through Sunday. bohemewines.com

Tina Caputo is a wine, food and travel journalist who contributes to Sonoma magazine, SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, Northern California Public Media, KQED and more. Follow her on Bluesky at @winebroad.bsky.social, view her website at tinacaputo.com, and email her story ideas at tina@caputocontent.com.

Glen Ellen’s Fig Cafe Transforms Into Poppy

April 2025

By Heather Irwin

Prince Edward Island Steamed Mussels with chorizo, in a sofrito sauce at the Fig Cafe in Glen Ellen. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

The former Fig Cafe in Glen Ellen will bloom into a new restaurant this spring, appropriately called Poppy.

“The Fig Cafe had a wonderful run,” said John Toulze, managing partner of The Girl and The Fig and the forthcoming Poppy. After 20 years in the community, Toulze said it was time for a new concept.

The restaurant won’t veer wildly off course from the café, which was known for its mix of California-Mediterranean cuisine. Instead, Poppy will celebrate the classic French dishes Toulze and Fig founder Sondra Bernstein loved about their trips to the south of France over the last 25 years — with plenty of California touches.

“It’s a return to where we started. Simple, ingredient-driven food with that original passion that was France,” he said.

Chicken Paillard with blue lake beans, mashed potatoes and lemon caper sauce from the Fig Cafe in Glen Ellen. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat) — Chicken Paillard with blue lake beans, mashed potatoes and lemon caper sauce from the Fig Cafe in Glen Ellen. The new Poppy in the former Fig Cafe space will celebrate classic French dishes. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Fig Cafe to become Poppy — The girl & the fig founder Sondra Bernstein with President/COO John Toulze. The business partners will open a new restaurant in April called Poppy in the former Fig Cafe in Glen Ellen. (Erik Castro / for The Press Democrat)

While the menu is still in final development, dishes like duck liver terrine, Coquilles Saint Jacques, roasted rabbit, and chicken with wild mushrooms will likely appear. Poppy will also offer family-style prix fixe dinners Wednesday through Friday with four courses. Each night, a single entrée, such as roasted lamb, cassoulet or flounder Meuniere, will be offered. Wine will be included in the price.

“We want to focus on value, with everything included,” Toulze said.

The Fig Cafe quietly closed in December 2024, and renovations quickly began on the historic Glen Ellen location.

“We are completely reimagining the space; the colors, the textures, the experience,” he said.

Poppy is slated to open in late April. 13690 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen, 707-938-2130, poppyglenellen.com

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

Novavine Gives Unused Sonoma County Greenhouses New Life Growing Produce for Food Bank

April 2025

By Abigail Peterson

A greenhouse where Novavine, a plant nursery in Sonoma County, grows produce for the Redwood Empire Food Bank. (Redwood Empire Food Bank)

Grapevine nursery owner Jay Jensen had a problem.

Grapevines are a seasonal product, and his 120,000 square feet of greenhouses in Sonoma Valley were unused from late June through January. The team that worked in those greenhouses were not as busy for half the year, too. That is, until Jensen happened to sit next to a board member of the Redwood Empire Food Bank at a local event. The two business leaders started chatting, and Jensen realized those empty square feet — and the expertise of his professional horticulturists — could be put to good use in the off-season, growing food.

Jensen and his team at Novavine started their pilot program in late June 2024, using about 5,000 square feet of empty greenhouse space for vegetables and herbs to donate to the food bank. The nursery’s horticulturists set up arrays of 5-gallon containers and trained the vegetables vertically up trellises strung from the top of the greenhouse.

Sonoma Grapevine Nursery Turned Greenhouse — A greenhouse where Novavine, a plant nursery in Sonoma County, grows produce for the Redwood Empire Food Bank. (Redwood Empire Food Bank)

“When you walked in, it was a jungle of all these plants growing up the strings, reaching for the light,” says Jensen. “It was a great thing to see, especially when they were loaded up with all these beautiful peppers and tomatoes.”

The team farmed several thousand pounds of tomatillos, peppers, cilantro, tomatoes and green onions to donate — and Jensen was able to keep his workforce employed through the season.

“It felt like it was meant to be,” says Alison Smith, chief operations officer of the Redwood Empire Food Bank. “It was a complete alignment, tapping into the community in this way. For Jay, he wanted to keep his team engaged and do good — it was about family, his workforce, his community.”

Smith explains that the food bank targets fresh produce for 50% of what they distribute to local families. A lot of healthy produce is available in summer, but there’s less around in late fall and at the holidays — right when the greenhouse crop, planted in June, was at peak production. Another bonus: the Novavine produce could be distributed just a few miles from where it was grown. And the quality and variety was top-notch, including several veggies and herbs not often available to food bank clients.

Produce to be donated to the Redwood Empire Food Bank, grown by the horticulturists at Novavine, a plant nursery in Sonoma County. (Redwood Empire Food Bank) — Produce to be donated to the Redwood Empire Food Bank, grown by the horticulturists at Novavine. (Redwood Empire Food Bank)

“We get a lot of potatoes and onions. Tomatoes, sometimes. Tomatillos, rarely. Cilantro, never,” says Smith. “So our clients were really happy.”

This season, the Novavine team plans to double or triple the amount of growing space, yielding tens of thousands of pounds of vegetables to distribute. They are applying for grants to defray a few of the costs. And Redwood Empire Food Bank is touting the program’s synergies to other regional food banks, to see if there are plant nurseries in other communities with unused greenhouse space in the off-season.

By the end of June, when grapevine season is over, there will be another round of veggies starting up the trellises inside the Novavine greenhouses.

“I’ve had a business in this community for 27 years,” says Jensen. “And even in this community, hunger is more of a problem than any one of us would like to admit. This is a program that everybody feels good about.”

Novavine, 6735 Sonoma Highway, Santa Rosa, 707-539-5678, novavine.com

Two Wine Country Restaurants Rank Among Most Expensive in US

April 2025

By Eden Collier

A dinner spread at SingleThread in Healdsburg. (John Troxell / Sonoma County Tourism)

Wine Country is known for its world-class cuisine. Now, two of the region’s Michelin-starred restaurants also are getting recognized for the amounts of cash diners shell out to experience their food.

SingleThread in Healdsburg and The French Laundry in Yountville are on a new list of the “10 Most Expensive Restaurants in the U.S.” compiled by GoBankingRates, a personal finance publication.

SingleThread, Healdsburg

An open kitchen design allows the guest to watch the creation of their meal at SingleThread Farms Restaurant in Healdsburg. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat) — An open kitchen design allows the guest to watch the creation of their meal at SingleThread restaurant in Healdsburg. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

SingleThread, a three-Michelin-starred restaurant and inn in downtown Healdsburg, offers a 10-course Kaiseki-style tasting menu that ranges from $425 to $500 per person, depending on the day of the week.

Opened by Kyle and Katina Connaughton nearly a decade ago, the restaurant quickly rose to prominence — earning two Michelin stars in 2018 and achieving the coveted third star the following year. In 2024, it was recognized on the prestigious World’s 50 Best Restaurants list for the fourth time in a row.

Nearby, the Connaughtons operate a 24-acre working farm that supplies the restaurant with seasonal ingredients central to its Japanese-influenced, hyper-local approach. Above the restaurant, a five-room inn offers guests an immersive experience, recently earning Three Keys from the Michelin Guide in recognition of its elevated hospitality.

Accommodations at SingleThread Inn in Healdsburg. (Sonoma County Tourism)

Restaurant reservations are released at 9 a.m. on the first of each month via OpenTable, for the following month’s availability. A prepayment in full is required to confirm a booking, and cancellations or rescheduling are not permitted. Guests can also pre-select beverage pairings through OpenTable or order them tableside during their visit.

SingleThread, 131 North St., Healdsburg, 707-723-4646, singlethreadfarms.com

The French Laundry, Yountville

Just across the county line in Napa Valley, The French Laundry in Yountville offers a lavish multi-course tasting menu — one of the most iconic dining experiences in the country.

Laura Cunningham, left, and the chef Thomas Keller, partners in the French Laundry and Per Se, in the kitchen of the French Laundry in Yountville, Calif., Nov. 20, 2024. As Thomas Keller's most influential restaurants hit major birthdays, the cost and the demand have risen. (Aya Brackett/The New York Times) — Laura Cunningham, left, and the chef Thomas Keller, partners in the French Laundry and Per Se, in the kitchen of the French Laundry in Yountville, Calif., Nov. 20, 2024. (Aya Brackett/The New York Times)

The French Laundry fine dining restaurant — Seared skate wing with an ethereal saffron-vanilla emulsion served at the French Laundry in Yountville, Calif., Nov. 20, 2024. (Aya Brackett/The New York Times)

Opened in 1994 by acclaimed chef Thomas Keller, The French Laundry is housed in a historic stone building that once served as a 1920s French steam laundry. The 1,600-square-foot space dates back to 1900, when it was constructed as a saloon. Keller discovered the property in the early 1990s while searching for a space to realize his dream of bringing refined French cuisine to Napa Valley.

The French Laundry’s menu changes daily but remains steadfastly committed to classical French techniques and seasonal ingredients of the highest quality. It has held Michelin’s highest honor — three stars — since 2007, helping to make Keller the only American-born chef to simultaneously operate two restaurants with that distinction: The French Laundry in California and Per Se in New York.

In 2023, English food review and recipe website Lovefood named it California’s “most famous” restaurant, and recommended it as one of the 50 places in the country that diners should experience at least once in their lives.

Guests can choose from several dining options, all requiring prepaid reservations. GoBankingRates stated The French Laundry’s tasting menu starts at $390 per person; however, the restaurant’s Tock page has reservations starting at $425 per person. Private dining spaces are also available for $600 per person. For an even more exclusive experience, The French Laundry offers occasional special events, such as its Black Truffle & Caviar Dinner, priced at $1,200 per person.

The French Laundry, 6640 Washington St., Yountville, 707-944-2380, thomaskeller.com/tfl

‘We Call It Petaluma’s Longest Park’: Discover the Best Way to Enjoy the Petaluma River

March 2025

By Dana Rebmann

The Floathouse on the Petaluma River was moved across the basin to accommodate dock construction. Photographed on Monday, June 17, 2024. (Crissy Pascual / Petaluma Argus-Courier)

Chock full of charming, historic buildings filled with shops and a lively food and beverage scene, downtown Petaluma is the definition of hip these days. You likely know it’s famous for butter and eggs and has served as a backdrop for locally filmed movies. But do you know anything about the Petaluma River?

It’s next to impossible to miss when you come into town; you’ve probably paused to watch someone frolic along the river, maybe even snapped a photo. With summer in our sights, now’s the time to make a splash of your own — and The Floathouse makes it easy.

“We call it Petaluma’s longest park. We’re so lucky that we’re a farm town with a river,” said Maggie Hohle, who juggles social media and a bit of programming along with guiding a new kayaking tour for The Floathouse, a boating community center of sorts created by the nonprofit Petaluma Small Craft Center.

Kayaking tour on the Petaluma River — A stop along The Floathouse’s “Paddle the Petaluma: Turn to the River” tour. Guide Maggie Hohle is holding a photo of the “Golden Eagle” tugboat towing a barge underneath the Washington Street Bridge. The photo was taken around 1938. (Dana Rebmann)

Located on floating docks in downtown Petaluma, steps from the John Balshaw River Walk Bridge (otherwise known as the Footbridge), The Floathouse rents a multitude of human-powered watercraft. From kayaks and rowboats to canoes, paddleboards and water bikes, there’s more than a dozen beginner-friendly watercraft ready to propel a fun-filled day on the water.

But there’s more to The Floathouse than just equipment rentals. A dedicated group of volunteers organizes everything from beginning paddleboarding (SUP) classes and summer camps to full moon paddles and river races. In partnership with Sonoma County Tourism’s new collection of offerings called Signature Experiences, The Floathouse recently launched a guided kayak tour called “Paddle the Petaluma: Turn to the River.”

Floating along with an assortment of laminated, black-and-white historical photographs, Hohle demonstrates how our relationship with the Petaluma River has evolved throughout the years. Whether it’s listening to a Coast Miwok elder’s compelling reading of wildlife observations made a century ago; learning that the Petaluma River was crucial to exporting wheat to England long before eggs floated down the waterway; or simply spotting a green heron pondering lunch — floating atop a kayak offers a unique opportunity to soak in the river’s past while appreciating its booming recreational revival.

The Floathouse in Petaluma — The Floathouse in its temporary location near the John Balshaw River Walk Bridge in Petaluma. (Dana Rebmann)

Paddlers also glean some gee-whiz facts. Did you know Petaluma was home to the world’s first and only chicken pharmacy? Perhaps a more important detail — the Petaluma River isn’t actually a river. It’s a tidal slough.

You’ll spend about 90 minutes on the water, but don’t let that fool you into thinking this is a strenuous endeavour. It’s a gentle paddle on water that’s well-known as a safe and tranquil spot for first-timers to learn skills. All told, you’ll cover about two miles. The hardest part of the tour is getting into the kayak at the dock, but The Floathouse staff are pros at keeping guests dry and smiling. The “Paddle the Petaluma: Turn to the River” is being offered once or twice a month through September.

The Petaluma River stretches roughly 13 miles south from downtown Petaluma to the top of San Pablo Bay. On the tour, you never lose sight of downtown, but the experience just might inspire another day on the water.

“It’s your river. Come out and play,” said Hohle. “We will find something that makes you feel comfortable.”

Aluxa Lalicker of Clavey Paddlesports participates in a yoga paddleboard demonstration during the annual Day on the River event at Foundry Wharf in downtown Petaluma. (Ramin Rahimian) — Aluxa Lalicker of Clavey Paddlesports participates in a yoga paddleboard demonstration during the annual Day on the River event in downtown Petaluma. (Ramin Rahimian)

As an added perk, guests on the “Paddle the Petaluma: Turn to the River” tour receive an assortment of discounts, good at local businesses including The Yoga Post, Grand Central Café and TAPS on the River beer garden and restaurant.

The Floathouse is currently open Saturdays and Sundays from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., with days expanding as we head into summer. However, events are also offered on weekdays and evenings, and group outings are available by appointment. Follow @thefloathousepetaluma on Instagram for the latest updates.

Sonoma County Signature Experiences

Wine may be what put Sonoma County on the map, but the Signature Experiences recently unveiled by Sonoma County Tourism are meant to showcase the diversity of our backyard. There are nine in total, and while they’re aimed at visitors, locals shouldn’t rule them out.

Along with paddling the Petaluma River, you can go foraging along the Sonoma Coast, sign up for hands-on experience in cheese making, or go behind the scenes to learn about animal care at Safari West private wildlife preserve.

The Tulip Girls Blossom in Sonoma County’s Floral Community

March 2025

By Abigail Peterson

Kelsey Russell, left, and Marie Bran of The Tulip Girls at Sequoia Floral in Santa Rosa, February 4, 2024. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)

Marie Bran and Kelsey Russell of The Tulip Girls have a meet-cute story that’s hard to top for a couple in their profession: they got to know each other while working at Sequoia Floral, the Santa Rosa wholesale floral supplier, and their first date was making flower crowns together.

The pair, who teach occasional pop-up classes at Sequoia Floral and enjoy working on events and weddings with other queer couples, say Sonoma’s tight-knit floral community has been a boon to their young business.

“We chose the name The Tulip Girls because we both love tulips — and because we really wanted to highlight that we are women-owned,” explains Bran.

Springtime has some of their favorite blooms in season, like hellebores and flowering branches, says Russell. March and April are also a bit of a pause, coming between the two busy floral holidays of Valentine’s Day and Mother’s Day, which allows the couple time to get out and explore the county. thetulipgirls.com

Kelsey Russell, left, and Marie Bran of The Tulip Girls at Sequoia Floral in Santa Rosa, Feb. 4, 2024. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)

The lobby at the recently renovated Flamino Resort in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy of Flamingo Resort) — The lobby at Flamingo Resort & Spa in Santa Rosa. (Flamingo Resort)

On the second Saturday of each month, they head to The Flamingo Resort for Lush, a queer dance party with DJ Dyops. “It’s super-welcoming — like the most chaotic and fun and safe dance party ever,” says Russell. The Flamingo Resort & Spa, 2777 Fourth St., Santa Rosa. 707-545-8530, flamingoresort.com

One of the highlights of their season is the Petaluma Spring Antique Faire, this year on Sunday, April 27. Held across downtown, the event “is loaded with amazing booths,” says Russell, who grew up in Petaluma. Floral frogs and tools, old records, and botanical prints are some of her favorite finds. petalumadowntown.com/antique-show

The couple rarely misses Tuesday night trivia at Penngrove’s Twin Oaks Roadhouse. Tacos and veggie bowls are on order, plus delicious blackberry margaritas with housemade cocktail syrup. “You feel like you’re part of a really small town when you’re there — like Gilmore Girls,” says Bran. 5745 Old Redwood Hwy., Penngrove. 707-795-5118, hopmonk.com/twin-oaks

At Twin Oaks Roadhouse in Penngrove. (Sonoma County Tourism)

Fern Bar Sebastopol — Interior of Sebastopol’s Fern Bar, a vibe-y lounge and restaurant with astounding craft cocktails and super shareable plates for the table. (Sonoma County Tourism)

“Fern Bar in Sebastopol is so pretty, with the drinks and all the plants as decor,” says Bran. “And they have the best burgers. Like, if you’d never had a burger before in your life, this would be the burger you’d want to have.” At The Barlow, 6780 Depot St., Sebastopol. 707-861-9603, fernbar.com

Russell and Bran appreciate working with local blooms. “The more you can shorten the distance from field to vase, the better,” says Russell, who studied plant science and horticulture at Cal Poly. Favorite sources include Austin Ranch Flowers in Santa Rosa (austinranchflowers.com) and Gratitude Gardens in Sebastopol (gratitudegardensfarm.com).