Page 411 – Sonoma Magazine

Create a Relaxing Zen Space in Your Backyard

August 2016

By Christina Molcillo

I have a lot of fun in my backyard – barbecuing, playing with the kids, hosting dinner parties. But sometimes, when the workday is done and the house is in chaos, I just want to step outside, catch my breath and relax – alone. This is why I decided to add a zen space to my backyard.

Modern zen gardens usually serve as an addition to a larger yard, offering a peaceful corner for quiet reflection. Sand, pebbles, rocks and simple lines are used to create a sense of simplicity while water features, moss, bamboo, pruned miniature bushes and trees, please the eye and calm the senses.

Here is some inspiration for how you can create your own zen space and information about where to find zen essentials in Sonoma County:

Sand

Well maintained and carefully raked patterns in sand play a central part in zen gardens. The lines are meant to mimic the ripples found in water, while the stillness of the sand inspires a feeling of tranquility. The raking itself can offer relaxation and aid meditation.

Rocks are added to the sand in careful arrangements to create a miniature landscape representing either hills or islands. The way the sand interacts with the rocks is important; the direction of the lines will suggest the way water would interact with these elements. (Image via HotThemes)

Get this zen accessory: Smith Harold & Son Inc. (707) 963-7977

Rocks & Boulders

River rock and gravel can be used in place of sand to create a more permanent zen garden without having to worry about the sand being perfectly raked. The meditation garden at Osmosis Day Spa Sanctuary in Freestone incorporates a small waterfall feature running through the rocks. A waterfall is said to represent how the universe always changes but, at the same time, stays the same.

If you have a large backyard, boulders can be used to represent mountains, or add an organic sculptural element. According to zen philosophy, a boulder represents being unmovable in the face of adversity or difficult times. (Image via wallpapers.com)

Get this zen accessory: Ramm Rock and Landscape Supply, (707) 528-6067

Statuary & Decoration

Outdoor sculptures, such as stone pagodas, Buddha statues, and abstract sculptures, can help transform your zen garden into a meditative space by separating it from the rest of the backyard. (Image via Design Toscano)

Get this zen accessory: Pottery World (916) 624-8080

Koi Ponds

In Japan, raising and breeding Koi is considered an art form, and when they’re added to a zen garden they serve as a reminder of life in motion and transition. (Image via Albright Aquariums)

While Koi ponds are absolutely gorgeous, a few things need to be considered before deciding to have one installed in your backyard. First, if you have a small backyard, it may not fit: the ideal size for a Koi pond is considered to be over 1,000 gallons and at least three feet deep. Second, the fish themselves can be costly. While smaller fish may not break the bank, larger and more mature fish can cost thousands of dollars. And third, the pond must be carefully maintained, and there’s also the worry of backyard predators. If you have cats or raccoons visiting your yard, a Koi pond may not be a good idea.

Get this zen accessory: Bridge Way Koi, (707) 494-2609

Bamboo

Path to Japanese Meditation Garden at Osmosis Day Spa Sanctuary in Freestone on Saturday, September 29, 2012. (Crista Jeremiason — Path to the Japanese Meditation Garden at Osmosis Day Spa Sanctuary in Freestone. (Photo by Crista Jeremiason)

Bamboo forests are common in Japan – the plant is appreciated for the way it will sway in the lightest breeze, while still being deeply rooted in the ground. It is difficult, if not impossible, to remove it completely. This sturdiness has inspired the zen saying, “Bend but don’t break. Be flexible yet firmly rooted.” (Image via homestyler.com)

Bamboo fences can be used to separate the Zen garden from the rest of the yard, creating a more private space for meditation. (Image via Zillow)

Get this zen accessory: Jungle Bamboo & Palm Nursery, 707 794-8292

Moss

Moss is a tenacious plant that occurs naturally in some zen gardens. It is also placed purposefully on rocks to represent tranquility and gentleness – the softness of the moss provides a counterpoint to the hardness of the ground and rocks. (Image via Wikimedia)

Moss is also an ideal addition for tiny, desktop zen gardens. (Image via MossStoneGardens.com)

Get this zen accessory: King’s Nursery, (707) 542-4782

Bushes & Trees

While traditional zen gardens are devoid of plant life, modern gardens incorporate plants such as miniature cedar, Japanese maple or bonsai trees. The Wildwood Nursery in Kenwood is host to 250 different Japanese maples, 50 varieties of dogwoods, and companion plants. The Wildwood gardens showcase a variety of different plants, which can serve as inspiration.

This Redwood Bonsai will be exhibited at the 33rd Bonsai Show in Santa Rosa on Aug 20-21. (Photo by Don Van Dyke) — This Redwood Bonsai is part of the collection exhibited at the 33rd Bonsai Show in Santa Rosa on Aug 20-21. (Photo by Don Van Dyke)

Looking for local inspiration for your zen garden (or simply some tranquility)? I highly recommend visiting the Meditation Garden at Osmosis Day Spa Sanctuary in Freestone, Quarryhill Botanical Garden in Glen Ellen, the Wildwood Maple Tree Nursery in Kenwood and the Redwood Empire Bonsai Society Show in Santa Rosa (August 20-21).

The Top 10 Fall Colors and Outfits to Match Them

August 2016

By Amy Schaus

Pops of vibrant colors – like this bold Aurora red – anchor the dominant fall color, blue. (Photo Courtesy Pantone

Every season, just in time for the highly anticipated New York Fashion Week, Pantone Color Institute releases a selection of 10 colors that are expected to be popping up everywhere – from fashion and beauty to home décor.

The new blue Pantone Riverside shade takes precedence in the fall collections. (Photo Courtesy Pantone Color Institute)

For Fall 2016, the blue family dominates the Pantone color palette. Led by an “Airy Blue” shade and a cool, calming and strong “Riverside Blue,” these blue hues are inspired by the desire for “tranquility, strength, and optimism.” Earth tones and pops of vibrant color also appear throughout the palette.

Pantone Fall Color 2016 Cheatsheet:

Airy Blue – blue sky
Aurora Red – rich jewel-like
Spicy Mustard – exotic golden
Dusty Cedar – dark rose pink
Bodacious – purple
Sharkskin – grey
Riverside – blue grey
Potter’s Clay – rich brown
Lush Meadow – emerald green
Warm Taupe – beige

Check out the fall collection colors from some of our favorite designers, available at Montgomery Village in Santa Rosa and online:

TALBOTS Fall 2016

Gramercy Wool Coat in Plush Camel $299
Perfect Cashmere Turtleneck in Dark Palomino $159
Edgemont Floral Pencil Skirt in Dark Peacock $99
Eri Pointy Toe Pump in Light Acorn Suede $149
Fall Berry Necklace in Acorn $79.50
Waterweave Wrap in Camel $159

Twill Double-Cloth No-Close Jacket in Roma Red $169
Country Tweed Collarless Shirt in Roma Rose $89.50
Flawless Five Pocket Boyfriend in Coastal Wash $89.50
City Scene Scarf in Ivory $59.50

Mira Pointy Toe Kid Suede Flat in Scotch Pine, Bright Orchid, or Rustic Gold $109
In Leopard $119

Double-Faced Flyaway Moto Jacket in Autumn Grape $249
Zigzag Print Merino Sweater in Indigo Blue $89.50
Flawless Five Pocket Boyfriend in Coastal Wash $89.50
Mira Pointy Toe Flat in Sour Lemon $109
Crossbody Suede Bag in Violet Berry $119
Turn-Lock Bangle in Begonia or Indigo $34.50
Waterweave Wrap in Navy $159

WHITE HOUSE BLACK MARKET Fall 2016

Trophy Jacket in Rosso $150.00
Pleated Shell in Rosso $68

Suede Moto Jacket in Whiskey $398

Floral-Print Woven Blouse in Black/Rosso $98

J. JILL Fall 2016

Smooth Fit Straight Jeans in Deep-Sea Wash $109

Versatile Open-Front Cardi in Scarlet $69
Shirred Back Tank Dress in Scarlet $69

Light Linen and Rayon Pullover in Breeze $69

CHICOS Fall 2016

Striped Tee Midi Dress in Blue Combo $109

Lace-Up Denim Popover in Deep Delray Wash $99

Mikayla Coil Bracelet in Indigo $39

Malaysia Paisley Print Palazzo Pants in Multi $99.00

Snoop and Martha Are Smoking in the Kitchen

August 2016

By biteclub

Snoop and Martha are hosting a new diner party show this fall on VH1

A love of herb has brought together Martha Stewart and rapper Snoop Dogg for a new television series called “Martha & Snoop’s Dinner Party” this fall. And we don’t mean oregano.

The two will host an unscripted dinner party with cooking, celebrity guests, and plenty of cannabis-related banter on VH1.

Though it may seem curious that the queen of all things tasteful and the Doggfather are doing their own version of Ebony and Ivory (and Greenery!) around the dinner table, the unlikely couple have a longtime on-air relationship–mostly around discussing the wacky weed.

Several years ago, Snoop appeared on Martha making brownies and mashed potatoes with Stewart, while also explaining the definition of “fo-shizzle”. You can feel the Martha audience looking for celebrity guest Nathan Lane or Clare Danes as Snoop raps about baked goods and jokes about vanilla.

But Martha just eats it up, as cool as a cucumber, and the two were a natural during the Christmas show. “We’re missing the most important part of the brownies,” he says,”Which is?” asks Martha. “No sticks, no seeds, no stems,” he adds, as she cackles. Literally cackles.

Martha is so living the 420 lifestyle.

In fact, the two appeared at a roast for Justin Bieber and rumor is that Martha inhaled backstage. She also supposedly rolls a very tastefully wrapped joint. Snoop and Martha also recently appeared on $100,000 Pyramid, and on Reddit Martha expressed a wish that she and Snoop could be better friends.

Wish granted.

“Martha? Oh yeah, she is smokin’ in the kitchen. And she can cook too,” says Snoop in a promo video. Though it’s no secret that Snoop enjoys a bit of the ganj, well, everyday, he’s recently launched a marijuana lifestyle website called Merry Jane that’s blowing some serious smoke up our skirts. He’s also a producer of a MTV comedy Mary+Jane.

Though Martha Stewart as the poster child for the legalization for medical and recreational marijuana seems a long shot, marrying it with celebrities, cooking and lifestyle bring the message of cannabis normalization to the masses. Even if it comes in a bejeweled case, wrapped in a Japanese furoshiki with a personal notecard and a recipe for pot brownies. Fo-shizzle.

(Comments disabled, because this is a humorous look at the subject of cannabis legalization and celebrity. Personal rants about the pro and cons of cannabis belong in letters to the editor or to your dog, who frankly is tired of listening to you.)

The 6 Sweetest Pastry Chefs in Sonoma County

August 2016

By biteclub

Robert Nieto of Jackson Family Wines. Nieto has been named one of America's top ten bakers. Heather Irwin/PD — Robert Nieto of Jackson Family Wines. Nieto has been named one of America’s top ten bakers. Heather Irwin/PD

Did you know one of the Top 10 Pastry Chefs in America lives and works right here in Sonoma County? And that his nickname is “Buttercup”? Meet Robert Nieto and 5 other amazing local pastry chefs we love…

Tuile and rhubarb from Robert Nieto of Jackson Family Wines. Nieto has been named one of America's top ten bakers. Heather Irwin/PD — Tuile and rhubarb from Robert Nieto of Jackson Family Wines. Nieto has been named one of America’s top ten bakers. Heather Irwin/PD

Somewhere between the heat of the sun and molten lava is the perfect temperature for pulling melted sugar into lovely candy ribbons. Robert Nieto has the scars to prove it.

Working under a glowing red heat lamp in the Santa Rosa kitchen of Jackson Family Wines, he gingerly tugs at a 200-plus-degree blob of boiled sugar with gentle flicks of his wrist, creating thin wisps of candy that harden almost immediately into curls. In mere minutes, the blob can become a rock, so Nieto works with the intensity of a surgeon, despite the constant pain of his burning fingers.

Macarons and other sweets from Robert Nieto of Jackson Family Wines. Nieto has been named one of America's top ten bakers. Heather Irwin/PD — Macarons and other sweets from Robert Nieto of Jackson Family Wines. Nieto has been named one of America’s top ten bakers. Heather Irwin/PD

The life of a pastry chef isn’t always so sweet.

Nieto is one of several highly trained Sonoma pastry chefs whose mediums are chocolate, sugar, flour, cream and butter. More than bakers, these oft-overlooked artisans are equal parts scientist and artist, working with a precision and intensity demonstrated by the dreamy confections that make a great meal extraordinary.

Unlike a savory pan sauce or piece of meat that might benefit from an added pinch of salt at the end, baking is unforgiving. Pastry and confections are about exact measurements and processes so the soufflé doesn’t fall and the custard doesn’t break into an oily mess. It takes expertise to create a dessert so intriguing that it can stand up to every other course of the meal.

Here are six Sonoma masters of the craft.

ROBERT NIETO
Jackson Family Wines

Robert Nieto, Pastry Chef of Jackson Family Wines. Photo: Heather Irwin

PASTRY SUPERPOWER: Chocolate.

CAN’T TAKE OFF THE MENU: Mama Frischkorn’s Caramel Corn (a Jackson Family specialty).

As part of the Jackson Family Wines culinary team, Nieto produces a vast lineup of desserts — from perfect cylinders of chocolate ganache with gold-covered chocolate or butterscotch panna cotta with candy cap mushroom meringue and sweet potato ice cream, to sculptural creations of tuile, mango cream and rhubarb sauce — as well as all manner of breads and pastries featured on menus at the various Jackson Family wineries and tasting rooms.

“I’m always looking for the wow factor,” he said. Using geometric shapes, molds and unexpected twists, such as candy ribbons, his plates engage all the senses.

In just about every spare moment (and with the blessings of his bosses), he trains in Chicago for a spot on Pastry Team USA, which will compete in the Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie competition in Lyon, France, in January 2017. Nieto was also chosen one of the top 10 pastry chefs in the country this year by Dessert Professional magazine.

Ganache and caramel from Robert Nieto of Jackson Family Wines. Nieto has been named one of America's top ten bakers. Heather Irwin/PD — Ganache and caramel from Robert Nieto of Jackson Family Wines. Nieto has been named one of America’s top ten bakers. Heather Irwin/PD

As for the nickname he’s learned to love? “Buttercup” was foisted on him by Jackson Family executive chef Justin Wangler after a particularly ungraceful game of volleyball, where Nieto became “Butterfingers.” Over time, it morphed into Buttercup. With a portfolio of work that includes tiny pink macarons filled with cream, statues of chocolate and spun sugar, and pastry so delicate it nearly evaporates to the touch, his nickname suits him.

Taste Nieto’s creations at Kendall-Jackson’s north Santa Rosa tasting room, 5007 Fulton Road, Fulton, 707-576-3810, kj.com/wine-andchocolate- pairing. A wine and chocolate pairing is offered, by appointment, for $25.

DAVID BLOM
Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn, Sonoma

PASTRY SUPERPOWER: Jack of all desserts.

CAN’T TAKE OFF THE MENU: Wild strawberries, when in season.

With the competing demands of special-event cakes, dining-room desserts and the Fairmont’s luxe holiday buffet spreads (usually with more than a dozen desserts), Blom is a pastry master by necessity. Named one of the best pastry chefs in America by Chocolatier magazine, he’s been the executive pastry chef at Sonoma Mission Inn for 12 years. His favorite dishes include green tea crème brûlée cake with vanilla-poached rhubarb, and a salted caramel mousse Napoleon.

Having grown up in a family of bakers, frosting is in his blood, yet he continues to push the boundaries of pastry-making, whether by ingredient or technique.

“Buffet desserts, plated desserts, wedding cakes, special-occasion cakes, bread baking, chocolate work, sugar work, molecular gastronomy, confectionery … you need to be adept at all aspects of the pastry profession in a resort setting,” Blom said.

100 Boyes Blvd., Sonoma, 707-9389000, fairmont.com/sonoma

EMMANUEL “MANNY” FIMBREZ
Madrona Manor, Healdsburg

PASTRY SUPERPOWER: Molecular gastronomy.

CAN’T TAKE OFF THE MENU: Liquid nitrogen tableside ice cream.

Fimbrez is a confectionery wunderkind. Like the manor’s top toque, Jesse Mallgren, he loves deconstructed dishes that mix whimsy, texture, temperature and flavors in surprising ways.

Unfettered by creating a full dessert menu (his sweets are showcased in the tasting menu), Fimbrez isn’t shackled to brownie sundaes and lava cakes. Instead, his signature is “Peas and a Pod,” a strawberry tart with a pulled-sugar pea pod filled with lemon ganache “peas” rolled in pea powder.

Manny Fimbrez’s “Peas and a Pod”: a strawberry tart with a pulled-sugar pea pod filled with lemon ganache “peas” rolled in pea powder.

This kind of science-based culinary play also includes his take on the traditional sour cream cheesecake, with his own version of Dippin’ Dots (tiny beads of ice cream frozen with liquid nitrogen). The hardest thing about being a pastry chef, Fimbrez said, is trying to do justice to the amazing farming community.

“Everyone knows the Lao (Saetern) strawberry stand in Sebastopol has the best strawberries and knows what they taste like, so you always want to showcase his product,” he said.

1001 Westside Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-4231, madronamanor.com

CASEY STONE
John Ash & Co., Santa Rosa

PASTRY SUPERPOWER: Kneading dough.

CAN’T TAKE OFF THE MENU: Cheesecake.

With more than a decade on the job at one of Santa Rosa’s favorite dining destinations, Stone knows the four things people really want to see on a dessert menu: something chocolate, something lemon, something comforting and something with ice cream or custard. It’s a pretty simple formula, but Stone has fairy-godmother talent for turning a dish such as chocolate mousse into a fantastical dome of devil’s food cake with vanilla bean-infused syrup, chocolate pearls, bittersweet chocolate mousse and a chocolate glaze.

Casey Stone is known for his gorgeous cheesecakes, including this raspberry version.

“There are a lot of components to it that you have to have ready before you can assemble them, but it’s super rich and I love it,” said Stone, who is responsible not only for desserts for the restaurant, but also the hotel, event center and catering.

His signature cheesecake gets its golden slippers from Meyer lemons, huckleberries and tangerine sorbet.

He gets his inspiration from local ingredients and produce grown on the property. As for his talent for kneading bread dough? “I like the feel of it and I do it pretty well,” he said.

4350 Barnes Road, Santa Rosa, 707-527-7687, vintnersinn.com

LISA KAUFMAN
Dry Creek Kitchen, Healdsburg

PASTRY SUPERPOWER: Lemon tarts.

CAN’T TAKE OFF THE MENU: Chocolate peanut butter bar.

The new kid on the block, Kaufman claims she got the job at Charlie Palmer’s Healdsburg restaurant because the other candidate didn’t show up. That, and the fact that the restaurant’s longtime pastry chef, Andrew Di Clementi, was willing to give the recent Santa Rosa Junior College culinary graduate a shot.

Lisa Kaufman's Strawberry Pain Perdu. — Lisa Kaufman’s Strawberry Pain Perdu.

“He saw something in me,” Kaufman said. She was also eager to learn from Di Clementi (now at Palmer’s Harvest Table in St. Helena), Palmer and pastry mentors at his Aureole restaurants in New York and Las Vegas.

Lisa Kaufman’s crème brûlée cheesecake with compressed kiwi and oranges.

Her favorite dessert on the Dry Creek Kitchen menu: crème brûlée cheesecake with compressed kiwi and oranges. The dessert that still eludes her: baked Alaska, a show-stopping dome of cake and ice cream topped with meringue and briefly cooked in an oven.

317 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-431-0330, drycreekkitchen.com

SCOTT NOLL
Barndiva, Healdsburg

PASTRY SUPERPOWER: Insatiable curiosity.

CAN’T TAKE OFF THE MENU: Milk & Honey.

Noll’s pre-chef experiences in mechanical engineering and art gave him a foundation for precision baking and creating beautiful dishes.

The owner of a vintage Porsche 912 with the license plate PASTREE, he’s a kitchen veteran with old-school mentors including Joyce Goldstein and John Ash, and current Barndiva chef Ryan Fancher. His personal style is mixing familiar flavors with modern presentations, such as with his butterscotch pudding with a piping of Scotch whisky.

Scott Noll’s “Milk & Honey”: honey-pickled poached pear against honey tea cake near dehydrated “crunchy” milk with honey ice cream sitting on bee pollen.

One of Noll’s favorites is Milk & Honey, which he calls a “multicomponent surprise package” of dehydrated “crunchy” milk with honey ice cream and honey tea cake, along with a honey-pickled poached pear. A bit of bee pollen under the ice cream completes the concept.

231 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-431-0100, barndiva.com

Photos: Chris Hardy and Heather Irwin

Free Family Films Start Rolling in Howarth Park, Santa Rosa

August 2016

By Dan Taylor

Just when families are looking for affordable late-summer entertainment options they haven’t already exhausted, the Santa Rosa Parks and Recreation Department is rolling out its popular annual outdoor series of free kid-friendly films, including the recent hits “Inside Out,” “Zootopia” and “The Good Dinosaur.”

“Movies in the Park,” now in its 10th year, will show family movies every Friday night from Aug. 12 through Sept. 16 in Howarth Park. Screenings start at dusk, approximately 8 p.m. in August and 7:45 p.m. in September.

“Our movie nights in recent years have been wildly popular,” said Adriane Mertens, marketing and outreach coordinator for the recreation and parks department. “Two years ago, when we showed ‘Frozen’ and it had just been out in theaters, that was pretty crazy, but definitely adorable when all the little kids started singing along to all of the songs.”

Attendance at the films averages between 700 and 1,000, depending on the film, Mertens said.

howarth 2 — Families enjoy one of the films being shown at the Movies in the Park series at Howarth Park in Santa Rosa.

“Some families show up a couple of hours in advance of the movie start time to reserve their space in the lawn,” she added.

Families can bring blankets to sit up front and in the center, or chairs for the back of the crowd or the sidelines. Several vendors serve food and drinks at each event.

“We like to come up with experiences that people can enjoy outdoors in the parks,” Mertens said. “It creates a gathering place for families to come together.”

This year’s “Movies in the Park” films are:

Aug. 12 — “Hotel Transylvania 2,” a sequel to the 2012 animated film about a remote high-end resort operated by Dracula (voice by Adam Sandler) and his friends.

Aug. 19 — “Inside Out,” Pixar’s 2015 animated hit about a young girl struggling with her own emotions when her family moves cross-country. Each emotion is personified by a different character in her mind.

Aug. 26 — “The Good Dinosaur,” another animated Pixar film from 2015, imagines a world in which dinosaurs never became extinct.

Sept. 2 — “Minions,” 2015, another animated film that spins off the supporting characters from the “Despicable Me” films, featuring the voices of Sandra Bullock, Jon Hamm of “Mad Men,” Allison Janney of “West Wing” and Michael Keaton.

Sept. 9 — “Hook,” 1991, the one live-action film in the series, stars Dustin Hoffman as Captain Hook and Robin Williams as Peter Pan.

Sept. 16 — “Zootopia,” the fast and funny Disney animated adventure from earlier this year, takes a different look at the cop buddy film formula.

Information: 707-543-3276, howarthpark@srcity.org.

More Family Movies in Sonoma County:

“Movies in the Park” in Santa Rosa is not the only local family film series this summer.
The popular Windsor Town Green series ended in July, but here are a couple of other choices:

Moonlight Movie Madness presents free outdoor films some Friday nights in the Alex Thomas Plaza in downtown Ukiah, with the “Peanuts” movie showing Aug. 12 and “The Good Dinosaur” Aug. 19. 463-6231. Find more information here.

Reel Kids Love Movies presents family films indoors at the Rohnert Park 16 theater, 555 Rohnert Park Expressway W., Rohnert Park. Admission: $1. The series concludes with “Hotel Transylvania 2” at 10 a.m. Aug. 10-11. Find more information here.

Five Sonoma County Wines to Uncork with the Olympics

August 2016

By Peg Melnik

With the eyes of the world focused on the Olympics, we are giddy as we celebrate the champions. What to uncork as we cheer the athletes? Knockout wines that deserve a gold medal, of course. Three are $20 and under, and two are well worth the splurge. Enjoy, fellow spectators.

Angeline, 2014 Paso Robles Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, 13.8%, $16. A lovely red from this Sonoma County winery, shy on cabernet sauvignon characteristics but still a knockout. Tasty cherry fruit rides on a surf of bright acidity. Notes of herbs and spice. Lingering finish. Quite a find for the price.

Korbel, NV Extra Dry California Champagne, 12%, $12. The appeal of this bubbly is that it’s well crafted, and it will please those who like a sparkler that’s a touch sweet. A great commingling of citrus and mineral notes. Nice length.

Frei Brothers, 2014 Russian River Valley, Sonoma County Chardonnay, 13.8%, $20. A well-groomed chardonnay that has a remarkable range for the price. Aromas and flavors of green apple, mineral and butter. Toasty finish. This budget chardonnay is impressive.

Lasseter’s Voila, 2014 Sonoma Valley, Sonoma County White Blend, 14.3%, $46. This wine will delight with its citrus notes and refreshing crisp acidity. A kiss of vanilla is in the mix. Top rate.

Rochioli, 2014 Russian River Valley Sonoma County Pinot Noir, 14.5% $60. This is an old style, Sonoma County classic pinot noir. It trumpets red raspberry fruit in its aromas and flavors. Mineral and spice round out this gorgeous pinot. Definitely gold medal caliber.

6 Sonoma Brews to Sip this Summer

August 2016

By Linda Murphy

They’re known as session or lawnmower beers: crisp, uncomplicated ales and lagers ideal for warmweather enjoyment. They go down easy, wet the whistle and are lower in alcohol — 4 percent to 6 percent by volume — than more substantial amber and India pale ales.

As the term “session” suggests, these beers (think Coors and Rolling Rock) are light enough to drink throughout the day without causing inebriation. Most are also watery and simple, insults to the palates of true beer buffs.

To the rescue: six Sonoma breweries that bottle and distribute refreshing beers with loads of flavor at low alcohol levels. They turn lawn-mowing from a chore to a rewarding pleasure.

1. BEAR REPUBLIC BREWING CO: Grand-Am American Pale Ale
It hits the alcohol-byvolume peak at 6 percent for a session beer and is assertively hopped, yet it’s superrefreshing and sessionable, with a rich malty character. bearrepublic.com

2. CLOVERDALE ALE CO: Caroline’s Blonde Ale
In this case, blondes do have more fun. It starts and finishes crisp, with a generous, malty midpalate. Great with Asian food. cloverdaleale.com

3. FOG BELT BREWING CO: Atlas Blonde
Fruity hops, subtle maltiness and a snappy finish are the signatures of this 5.4 percent alcohol beer made by an emerging Santa Rosa brewery. fogbeltbrewing.com

4. LAGUNITAS BREWING CO: Daytime Fractional IPA
Deep flavors of toasted malt and pleasantly bitter hops come at a surprisingly low 4.65 percent alcohol. So very easy to drink. lagunitas.com

Joel Johnson and partner John Lilienthal produce a variety of beers under the 101 North Brewing Co. label. (Photo by Christopher Chung)

5. 101 NORTH BREWING CO: Golden Naked Ale
Don’t let its slightly hazy appearance fool you: It’s a crisp, refreshing beer with a spicy kick on the finish. 101northbeer.com

6. ST. FLORIAN’S BREWERY: 48/96
Named for a firefighter’s 48-hour work shift followed by 96 hours off, this 4.8 percent alcohol brew is bright, refreshing and beautifully balanced in hops and malt character. stfloriansbrewery.com

Aron Levin of St. Florian's Brewery pours beer for attendees of Sonoma County Beerfest in Santa Rosa. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat) — Aron Levin of St. Florian’s Brewery pours beer for attendees of Sonoma County Beerfest in Santa Rosa. (Photo by Alvin Jornada)

Petaluma’s Popular Della Fattoria Expands into Dinner

August 2016

By Houston Porter

A group of ladies dine at Della Fattoria in Petaluma, on Monday, April 4, 2016. (BETH SCHLANKER/ The Press Democrat)

At the beginning of the year, Della Fattoria quietly announced plans to introduce regular dinner service and an expanded dining room, starting with periodic pop-up dinners.

Currently, Della has upgraded from the occasional prix fixe dinner to a full-blown dinner menu Fridays through Sundays. Every three weeks, the menu changes in order to fine-tune the fare and continue running Della’s kitchen through the necessary paces to ensure smooth operation once they scale up full-time.

The famous (Photo Courtesy Della Fattoria) — The famous Della Fattoria Meyer Lemon Rosemary Bread (Photo Courtesy Della Fattoria)

Already famous for features such as their Meyer lemon rosemary bread and honey lavender lattes, offering the ever-challenging dinner service might seem like an arduous task for an already busy bakery. But with a pedigree including stints at The Sonoma Mission Inn, Babette’s and The French Laundry, and award-winning breads, pastries and sold-out Della farm dinners, tapping deeper into Chef Aaron Weber’s talents is the best thing to happen to Petaluma’s culinary credentials since Lagunitas opened its doors.

Della Fattoria started when Edmund Weber built wife Kathleen Weber a wood-burning oven outside the kitchen door of their Petaluma ranch. Today, alongside son Aaron Weber and daughter Elisa Weber, photographer and website, farm, and event manager, the Weber’s breads and pastries garner world acclaim. They were even named Bon Appetit’s Top Ten Best Bread Bakeries in America.

Creamy polenta with poached eggs and vegetables at Della Fattoria in Petaluma, on Monday, April 4, 2016. (BETH SCHLANKER/ The Press Democrat) — Creamy polenta with poached eggs and vegetables at Della Fattoria in Petaluma. (Photo by Beth Schlanker)

Chef Weber relies on ingredients of unparalleled quality and what he creates with those fundamental elements is impressive. Add in Della’s excellent and affordable local wine list, servers that are always at the ready but never in the way and authentic down-home ambiance, and it is likely that most diners will become enthralled with Della’s delicacies. But take the whole family, because ordering anything less than the full menu is an injustice to your taste buds.

Paying homage to the Webers’ baking roots, the meal is sandwiched by bread. It starts with a selection of breads, coupled with salted butter. At the conclusion of the meal, each guest receives a take-home gift of a small bundle of salted bread sticks, which adds a friendly touch to an already incredible experience.

One of my dinner companions pointed out that anyone can make mushy; it takes attention to detail to cook it up properly. Al dente is the perfection of pasta, and I have never tasted better handmade pasta than Della Fattoria’s.

Another in my group pointed out that there is usually at least one dish on a restaurant’s table that we could have cooked better at home. However, not only was the kitchen’s timing impeccable, with all plates arriving together, beautifully prepared, and perfectly cooked, but every dish was so well thought out, with textures complementing flavors, that our attempt at replication would have surely insulted our palettes.

Last, but certainly not least are the desserts, another of Della’s specialties. The lemon moon is such a surprising balance of savory and sweet that we had to order a second just to confirm its unique and spectacular flavors.

Chef Weber respects his ingredients, but is not afraid to add touches of whimsy to his plating, such as the pretzel-tied green beans that came with our Salmon. Nothing is contrived or over the top. Instead, he lets the bold, fresh ingredients and flavor combinations speak for themselves. Weber’s attention to detail certainly sets Della apart from its local counterparts, and well within range of the region’s pinnacles.

In the world of restaurants, and especially food writing, it is rare to stumble upon the inception of something as spectacular as Della’s dinner service. For the most part, our search for great food, whether familiar or fancy, is a well-beaten path. Nothing seems undiscovered anymore. But Petaluma’s newest dining experience may be more than merely a diamond in the rough. Della’s new dinner service is quite possibly the crown jewel of farm-to-fork locavore cuisine.

Yelp, TripAdvisor, The Food Network, Zagat, Fodor’s or Michelin? It is anyone’s guess which will be the first to “discover” Della’s incredible dinner menu, but they will all likely clamor to make that claim. In the meantime, we can enjoy one of the best meals on the planet, created with whole and hearty ingredients by a family with an unpretentious passion for their work and a commitment to quality cuisine, coupled with down-home friendly service and ambiance.

Della Fattoria is all about the Weber family’s passion for using homegrown ingredients and offering the best dining experience possible. There is nothing garish or gaudy about Della’s food, presentation or service. Nothing is artificial.

Della offers as authentic and genuine a dining experience as one finds at a countryside bistro in Provence, a Trattoria in the hill towns of Tuscany or a neighborhood pub in Ireland. It is elegant and delicious, while remaining approachable and unpretentious, just like the Weber family themselves.

Five Red Wines to Enjoy at a Backyard Barbecue

August 2016

By Peg Melnik

These reds know how to celebrate smoky meat on the grill, and they draw a crowd. The neighbors will invite themselves over. There is simply no way to conceal a great backyard barbecue when uncorking tasty wines.

Here are five barbecue reds that will turn heads:

Monte Volpe, 2013 Primo Rosso Mendocino County Red Blend, 14.5%, $11. This is a style that will win over those who like a straight-forward wine, but one that offers layers of flavor. This red wine has notes of berry, plum and toast. A smart, budget-wise blend to uncork at the grill.

Bucher, 2014 Bucher Vineyard, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County Pinot Noir, 14.2%, $40. A gorgeous pinot noir with bright Bing cherry fruit, herb and pepper. The high-toned tangy fruit is knockout and will cut through the rich flavors of the meat. Lingering finish.

Pitagora, 2013 Sonoma County Red Wine Blend, 13.9%, $30. This concentrated blend is weighted to black fruit. Notes of boysenberry, plum, smoke and spice. A hint of cherry. Nice length. The smoky flavor will make this a great match for the grilled meats.

Matanzas Creek Winery, 2013 Sonoma County Merlot, 14.5%, $28. This seamless merlot is tasty, its black fruit coupled with herbs and spice. It’s a tasty melding of flavors, but its texture is what reels you in. Well crafted.

Amici, 2014 Russian River Valley Sonoma County Pinot Noir, 14.2%, $35. This rich pinot is lovely, with cherry and raspberry fruit up front. Subtle notes of cocoa and mineral follow. Tangy finish. Its bright fruit makes it a striking match for grilled meats.

County Bench Kitchen + Bar Spices Up Santa Rosa

August 2016

By biteclub

Executive Chef Bruce Frieseke and Chef de Cuisine Ben Davies at The County Bench in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD

You can thank an argument about horseradish for the Deviled Brussels Sprouts at Santa Rosa’s newly-opened County Bench Kitchen + Bar.

In a quiet moment between lunch and dinner service, Executive Chef Bruce Frieseke (who won a Michelin star during his time at the Applewood Inn) and Chef de Cuisine Ben Davies (Petite Syrah, Spoonbar, Mirepoix) sit at an upstairs table at the restaurant explaining one of their signature dishes—crunchy sprouts with the spicy horseradish creme. But not without the backstory of when Davies cleared the kitchen with noxious horseradish fumes in an early failed experiment.

Determined to prove that fresh, rather than Frieseke’s suggestion of prepared horseradish would prove tastier, Davies put whole chunks of horseradish in a juicer, leaving the staff with eyes burning, throats choking and no one wanting to get anywhere near the kitchen.

“You just couldn’t be in there,” said Davies.

The County Bench in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD

But from the ashes, or more accurately, the pulp, came the idea for crunchy Brussels with whipped horseradish, egg yolks and mayo — Deviled Brussels sprouts — that both chefs eventually created.

Though the two continue to rib each other about Battle Horseradish, that kind of good-natured back and forth, yin and yang, trial and error that make for a unique relationship that seems to be working at this upscale-casual American eatery.

Farro and ham hock at The County Bench in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD

Two Chefs Walk Into A Burger Bar

Davies wasn’t looking for a job when he ran into the Michelin-starred Frieseke in downtown Santa Rosa last fall. After a car crash, he was taking time off from the brutal hours he’d spent in high-profile restaurants in Napa and Sonoma and considering opening a restaurant of his own.

Call it fate, kismet or just random chance, but at that exact moment Frieseke happened to need a chef de cuisine at that moment for a new project, at that time called Craft 535 Kitchen + Bar. The upscale “New American” eatery would be part of restaurateur Sonu Chandi’s expanding Santa Rosa portfolio, which includes several Mountain Mike’s pizzerias, Stout Brothers and the then-yet-to-open Bibi’s Burger Bar that are part of Chandi Restaurant Group.

But there was a kicker: Before Frieseke and Davis could get to work on the chef-inspired restaurant, soon to be renamed County Bench, Chandi needed the two to help open a burger-focused restaurant. The two had their work cut out.

Croque Madame at The County Bench in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD

“It was a full court press for six weeks of ten hour days in the restaurant,” said Davies. The restaurant now operates pretty much on its own with cooks implementing their opening menu.

In the spring, the two got down to serious work on the menu for County Bench, which opened in May.

Having spent nearly a year together planning menus, working through construction, hiring and training staff, and spending long days in the kitchen, both chefs seem truly happy to be working together in a custom-designed kitchen, making the food they want to make.

“We’re just two chefs having fun,” says Davies, who isn’t prone to overly-sentimental conversation. “I’m not stressed and freaking out all the time,” he adds. “You can see it in the food. It’s the combination of both of our backgrounds and experiences. We’re not going anywhere,” said Davies.

Quinoa cracker with salmon and serranos at The County Bench in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD

What’s On The Menu

A mix of small plates and shareable entrees, County Bench is the kind of spot where you can stop in for a bite and a cocktail, have a light lunch, or sit down for some serious grub for brunch or dinner.

Among the shareable dishes: The three-finger thick ribeye ($70). Though some folks reel at the price tag, it’s meant to be divided up among two to four people. In fact, Freiseke says it’s his favorite dish on the menu.

“Look, when you cook a giant piece of meat, it’s amazing, rather than some skinny little piece,” said Frieseke. Along with the ribeye are other dishes meant to be shared: Chicken thighs in pimenton with chorizo and chick peas ($29) or braised lamb shank ($36) with cocoa nibs (reminiscent of a dish at Frieseke’s time as chef at Applewood Inn).

Brussels sprouts at The County Bench in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD

The small plates and appetizers leave more room for experimentation, ranging in price from $4 to $14 (with specials during Happy Hour). Favorites include:

– Popcorn + corn ($4): More than just a bowl of popcorn, it’s dusted with freeze-dried corn, salt and cayenne. Crave-worthy.

– Plated Quinoa Crackers ($8): Housemade crackers with cured salmon and serrano sour cream (also vegetarian with avocado and sumac)

– Crispy chicken drumsticks ($8): Covered with sweet chili sauce and black sesame seeds, we dare you not to devour these.

– Cauliflower, brown butter and braised oxtail ($8): So simple. So amazing. Order it.

Popcorn + corn at The County Bench in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD

Bigger Bites:

– Farro and Ham Hock Salad ($14): Fresh favas, radishes and asparagus (or whatever happens to be in season), make this a healthy, filling lunch or dinner accompaniment.

– Ranch Bowl ($22): It’s hard not to clap with glee at this little house party of steak, pork, steamed greens, cabbage, beets and jasmine rice.

Dessert at The County Bench in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD

Leave plenty of room for dessert, since pastry chef Victoria Madrigal always has something impressive on the menu. In fact, leave room for a couple of desserts.

Cocktails at The County Bench in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD

More Than Just Food

Though Frieseke and Davies have the spotlight at the restaurant, there are several other high-profile players that have influenced their menu. Chris John, the former sommelier for Cyrus Restaurant, created a wine list that’s exceptional both for Santa Rosa and Sonoma County. There are four small production wines on tap, along with a novel-sized wine list that focuses on a few classic regions, with a depth of vintages. Paul Ammerman, who relocated from NYC, is obsessive about the restaurant’s craft cocktail program, and you’ll find incredibly unique offerings on the constantly changing cocktail menu.

“Once we saw the wine list, we said, ‘Oh, the food really has to match the level of the wine list and cocktail program,” said Davies.

With a slow and steady start as the staff is trained and the dishes continue to evolve they’re reaching that goal, with an ever-changing lineup of dishes inspired by Sonoma County’s seasons, a little horseradish and two chefs having fun in the kitchen.

The County Bench Kitchen + Bar, 535 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 535-0700. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Friday from 11:30a.m. to 2:30p.m. and 5 to 11p.m (12:30a.m. on Friday).; Dinner Saturday – Monday; Brunch from 10a.m. to 2p.m. Sunday. thecountybench.com.

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Two Chefs Walk Into A Burger Bar

What’s On The Menu

More Than Just Food

ROBERT NIETO
Jackson Family Wines

DAVID BLOM
Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn, Sonoma

EMMANUEL “MANNY” FIMBREZ
Madrona Manor, Healdsburg

CASEY STONE
John Ash & Co., Santa Rosa

LISA KAUFMAN
Dry Creek Kitchen, Healdsburg

SCOTT NOLL
Barndiva, Healdsburg