Eze, France – April 21, 2022: Details with a 2 Michelin stars restaurant sign. (Mircea Moira/Shutterstock)
In chef circles, it’s long been known that winning a Michelin star — once considered the ultimate accolade — can also be the kiss of death for a restaurant. Higher expectations from diners, increased pressure on chefs, and the poaching of workers and suppliers hiking up costs are the dark side of the prestigious spotlight.
A recently released study by University College London (UCL) has borne out the assumption, at least statistically, after tracking the success or failure of hundreds of highly rated New York City restaurants between 2000 and 2019. It found that 40% of the restaurants had closed by 2019, while only one out of every five highly rated but non-Michelin restaurants had closed over the same time period.
“While restaurateurs frequently reflected on a feeling of achievement after receiving a Michelin star and highlighted that this led to a heightened focus on their restaurant, their staffs, and themselves, the consequences of Michelin stars were not all necessarily favorable,” said author Daniel B. Sands in the report, released in September.
The dining room at K&L Bistro in Sebastopol in 2014. K&L Bistro struggled to meet customers’ exacting demands after receiving a Michelin star and closed in 2022. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Public notice of the 124-year-old French arbiter of outstanding cooking remains highly coveted in the restaurant world. However, nearly a dozen Michelin-starred Wine Country restaurants have closed or significantly changed their format since receiving the award.
The former K&L Bistro in Sebastopol and Mirepoix in Windsor, for example, both struggled to meet customers’ exacting demands after receiving Michelin stars. Mirepoix closed just a year after winning a Michelin star in 2012. Other restaurants, including Applewood (Guerneville), Redd (Yountville), Ubuntu (Napa), Etoile (Yountville) and Martini House (St. Helena), have also closed despite critical acclaim.
Crispy Chicken Paillard with green chermoula and a tahini-garlic dressing from Studio Barndiva Friday, February 23, 2024 in Healdsburg. After receiving its first Michelin star in 2021, Barndiva abandoned its complex, multicourse menu in early 2024. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
After receiving its first Michelin star in 2021, Barndiva abandoned its complex, multicourse menu in early 2024, replacing it with a more casual, community-minded focus. Michelin two-star winner Cyrus closed in Healdsburg in 2012 following a lease dispute. The new Cyrus, which opened a decade later in Geyserville, received a Michelin star just months after opening in 2022.
According to the exhaustive UCL study, restaurateurs “at risk” of receiving a Michelin star should plan for the inevitable disruptions.
“Not all the effects of Michelin stars are bad,” author Sands said. “Some (restaurants) perform fine and are successful post-Michelin star, but in the end, sometimes these stressors are too much for a restaurant to withstand.”
The Mediterranean platter, onion rings and a tuna melt at D’s Diner in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Call me a restaurant tuna salad skeptic. There are so many things that need to be just right: the freshness of the salad, the mayo-to-tuna ratio, the bread, perfectly melted American cheese and my penchant for pickle relish.
But D’s Diner in Sebastopol is always a top choice when I’m feeling the tug of a toasted tuna sandwich.
The fresh albacore tuna melt on grilled sourdough at D’s Diner in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)Mediterranean platter with pita, falafel, hummus and baba ganoush at D’s Diner in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Now, it’s even closer to home with the opening of a second D’s Diner location at 750 Stony Point Road in Santa Rosa, replacing a former Superburger spot. Owner Musa Awad has joined forces with his son, Nabih, to bring the burgers, salads, sandwiches and tasty tuna salad to the new restaurant that opened in early September.
“We’re gonna be big,” said Musa Awad of his “not-so-fast food” diner.
The new restaurant will start serving the full breakfast options available in Sebastopol at the end of the month. Don’t miss the housemade Middle Eastern-style gyros, hummus, falafel and baba ganoush, along with onion rings and housemade Ranch.
7260 Healdsburg Ave., Sebastopol, 707-829-8080; 750 Stony Point Road, Suite A-190, Santa Rosa, 707-843-3041
The local distillery fall cocktail lineup includes, from left, Harvest Moon/Elk Fence Distillery Ancho Chili Bourbon Old Fashioned/Barber Lee Spirits and By the Bushel/Alley 6 Craft Distillery Saturday October 12, 2024. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Grape harvest may be the first thing that comes to mind when thinking of fall in Sonoma County, but there’s really no good reason the season should be limited to only fine wine.
Just like vintners, local craft distillers embrace the spirit of autumn, shaking up their repertoire with cocktails infused with seasonal flavors like nutmeg, cinnamon, vanilla and cardamom.
We asked a handful of Sonoma County distillers to share recipes for their favorite fall cocktails. From a coffee-lovers’ libation to a drink that highlights local apples and peaches, here are five you can make at home. Or simply head to one of these tasting rooms to learn from the pros.
The By the Bushel cocktail features Alley 6 Craft Distillery’s Spiced Peach liqueur and Candy Cap Bitters along with honey, fresh apple and lemon juice and garnished with a dehydrated orange slice, Tuesday, October 8, 2024 in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Alley 6 Craft Distillery
By the Bushel: You get a double dose of Alley 6 (1401 Grove St., Suite D, Healdsburg) deliciousness in this cocktail. The Spiced Peach Liqueur is made from local fruit from Healdsburg’s Dry Creek Peach, and the 86’d Candy Cap Bitters is composed of Candy Cap mushrooms foraged at the Sonoma Coast.
Why it’s good for fall: “This cocktail is essentially fall in a glass — cozy, comforting, and with a kick,” said Krystle Jorgensen, co-owner of Alley 6 Craft Distillery. “Alley 6 Spiced Peach Liqueur — think peach cobbler in a bottle — pairs beautifully with locally sourced apple cider for an extra orchard-fresh punch. The Candy Cap Bitters, made from mushrooms that smell like maple syrup, add an earthy sweetness without being overpowering.”
About the distillery: Alley 6 Craft Distillery is owned and operated by Jorgensen and her husband, Jason. The couple focuses on small-batch, in-house production. A visit to their tasting room will make you appreciate their deep commitment to sourcing local ingredients.
Recipe: By the Bushel
2 ounces Alley 6 Spiced Peach Liqueur
1 ounce fresh-pressed apple cider (preferably from local Gravenstein apples)
1/2 ounce fresh lemon juice
1/4 ounce honey (optional for more sweetness)
6-8 drops Alley 6 86’d Candy Cap Bitters
Garnish: dehydrated lemon or orange wheel and a cinnamon stick or ground cinnamon.
In a cocktail shaker, combine Alley 6 Spiced Peach Liqueur, apple cider, lemon juice and honey (if using). Shake vigorously with ice until chilled. Strain into a lowball or short glass over a large ice cube. Add 6-8 drops of Alley 6 86’d Candy Cap Bitters on top to amplify the earthy, mushroomy sweetness. Garnish with a dehydrated lemon or orange wheel and a cinnamon stick, or dust with cinnamon powder.
The Barber Lee Spirits Ancho Chili Bourbon Old Fashioned features their Heirloom Corn Straight Bourbon Thursday, October 11, 2024 in Petaluma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Barber Lee Spirits
Ancho Chili Bourbon Old Fashioned: This cocktail highlights Barber Lee Spirits (120 Washington St., Petaluma) Heirloom Corn Bourbon. It’s a riff on an Old Fashioned; a little sweet, a little smoky.
Why it’s good for fall: “The Ancho Reyes and bitters give this cocktail a great warming effect, perfect for keeping the fall chill at bay,” said Lorraine Barber, co-owner of Barber Lee Spirits.
About the distillery: Owned by a hardworking trio comprised of wife-and-husband vintners, Lorraine and Michael Barber, and their friend, Aaron Lee, the Barber Lee Spirits tasting room is a cozy retreat with distressed leather furniture and views of the barrel aging room. Tasting options vary, but one of the most popular experiences includes three spirits and a cocktail of your choice.
Recipe: Ancho Chili Bourbon Old Fashioned
2 ounces Barber Lee Spirits Heirloom Corn Bourbon
1/2 ounce Ancho Reyes Mexican Chile Liqueur
1 dash Batch One Bitter Girl Bitters
1/4 ounce Madeira
Bar spoon of brown sugar
Muddle brown sugar with Ancho Reyes Mexican Chile Liqueur and bitters in a mixing tin. Add ice, Madeira and Barber Lee Spirits Heirloom Corn Bourbon, and stir for approximately 30 seconds. Strain into rocks glass with fresh ice and enjoy.
Recipe notes: The Batch One is made locally by Bitter Girl Bitters in Penngrove (bittergirlbitters.com). The Ancho Reyes Mexican Chile Liqueur is made in Puebla City, Mexico (anchoreyes.com). Madeira, a fortified wine made in Portugal, is widely available throughout Northern California.
Elk Fence Distillery
Harvest Moon: This cocktail features Golden Owl Barrel Aged Gin, a new spirit from Elk Fence Distillery (464 Kenwood Court, Suite E, Santa Rosa). Elk Fence, which has produced spirits since 2019 and opened to the public in 2022, is the only distillery in Santa Rosa.
Why it’s good for fall: “Not only does it visually represent fall colors, it also dives right into some of the harvest flavors we have come to cherish in sweater season in Sonoma County, such as roasted nuts, allspice and harvest grapes,” said Scott Woodson, co-owner of Elk Fence Distillery.
About the distillery: Woodson owns and operates Elk Fence Distillery with Gail Coppinger (the friends met while working on a construction project). Their Speakeasy-inspired tasting room serves up a dose of nostalgia with its craft spirits and cocktails, featuring a bar from the 1880s made entirely of redwood and an upright Steinway piano from the 1890s that guests are encouraged to play.
The Harvest Moon cocktail from Elk Fence Distillery features their Golden Owl Barrel Aged Gin Friday, October 12, 2024 in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Combine all ingredients except the club soda in a cocktail shaker half-filled with ice. Shake until cold. Strain into a coupe or rocks glass. Top with club soda and garnish with fresh orange wheel.
Recipe notes: Frangelico is a hazelnut liqueur made in Italy (frangelico.com). Amontillado Sherry is readily available throughout Sonoma County.
Why it’s good for fall: “The rich flavors of nutmeg, cardamom, pumpkin and walnut perfectly complement the rich, dark flavors of our Cold Brew [Coffee Liqueur] and angular toffee notes in our flagship whiskey,” said Kat Prescott, tasting room manager at Griffo Distillery.
About the distillery: Mike and Jenny Griffo cofounded Griffo Distillery in 2013. The distillery officially launched in Petaluma with its first gin in 2015. In addition to cocktails and craft spirit tastings, the tasting room offers a robust calendar of events including live music, food trucks and trivia.
Cafe Calabaza cocktail by Griffo Distillery in Petaluma. (Courtesy of Griffo Distillery)
Combine ingredients in cocktail shaker, add ice, shake vigorously for 20 seconds, then strain over a large ice cube. Garnish with orange peel and three espresso beans.
Recipe notes: The Morning Wood Barrel Aged Coffee Bitters is made locally by Bitter Girl Bitters in Penngrove (bittergirlbitters.com). The Cardamom Clove Syrup is created in small batches and bottled by hand by FloraLuna Apothecary & Trading Co. in Petaluma (floralunaapothecary.com). The Pumpkin Spiced Latte Syrup is made by Sonoma Syrup Co. in Sonoma (sonomasyrup.com).
Mulled Mule by Hanson of Sonoma. (Courtesy of Hanson of Sonoma)
Hanson of Sonoma
Mulled Mule: This vodka cocktail from Hanson of Sonoma (22985 Burndale Road, Sonoma) features the label’s organic Mandarin Vodka infused with seasonal flavors, including vanilla, nutmeg, cinnamon and cloves.
Why it’s good for fall: “The Mulled Mule is refreshing, but also cozy at the same time,” said Alanna Hanson, co-owner of Hanson of Sonoma. “The bright citrus from the lime pairs perfectly with the warmth of the Mandarin Spice Infused Vodka. Topped off with ginger beer, it brings a spicy, earthy flavor that’s ideal for any fall gathering.”
About the distillery: Hanson of Sonoma’s Wine Country tasting room features a lovely Spirits Garden, complete with a wood-fired pizza oven and views of the fall hues taking hold in neighboring vineyards. On a sunny, fall day you can order a specialty pizza and seasonal cocktail while soaking up Sonoma County’s great outdoors.
1 ounce fresh squeezed lime juice (organic preferred)
1/2 ounce agave (organic preferred)
Ginger Beer
Garnish: fresh lime wheel or dried orange slice
Add Hanson of Sonoma Organic Mandarin Spice Infused Vodka, lime juice and agave to a copper mule cup and stir. Fill with ice and top with ginger beer.
Garnish with fresh lime wheel or dried orange slice.
Recipe: Hanson Mandarin Spice Infused Vodka
1 bottle of Hanson Organic Mandarin Vodka
1 vanilla bean
1 whole nutmeg
2 cinnamon sticks
5 whole cloves
Slice vanilla bean down its length. Microplane the outside of the whole nutmeg to expose its flavor (you can use the shavings, too). Add cinnamon sticks and cloves. Let everything soak in the vodka bottle for about two days, then strain.
Grilled cheese with birria on Texas Toast is a menu option at Galvan’s Eatery in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
KQED’s award-winning “Check, Please! Bay Area” restaurant review series will be back next month with a roundup of new locals’ picks from in and around San Francisco, including a Napa restaurant as well as a Rohnert Park food festival.
Host Leslie Sbrocco and three Bay Area locals discussed favorite eateries during the new season of the four-episode series, which airs Thursdays beginning at 7:30 p.m., Nov. 7, on KQED 9.
KQED’s announcement of the episode lineup stated reporter Cecilia Phillips of “Cecilia Tries It” sampled the food festival’s gourmet eats. Food included “local Sonoma bites” as well as “globally inspired street food.”
Cecilia Phillips paid a visit to Rohnert Park’s Fork’n Good Food Festival to try various foods for an episode of KQED’s “Check Please, Bay Area!” Pictured is Phillips, right, with a Flamin’ Hot Cheeto-crusted burger from Santa Rosa’s Indian Village Eats. (Courtesy Check Please, Bay Area!)Grilled cheese with birria on Texas Toast is a menu option at Galvan’s Eatery in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
The SoCo Market started the Fork’n Good Food Festival last year, held at Rohnert Park’s SOMO Village. The festival returned in May this year and again in September with over 40 food trucks spanning various cuisines.
Many Bite Club favorites appeared in the food truck lineup, such as Ápí Hot Chicken, War Pigs BBQ (which now has a restaurant on Marlow Road), Galvan’s Eatery, Lila’s Streetside Eats and Healdsburg’s The Wurst. Other county-based food trucks included Moxies Frozen Yogurt, Mama Zara Empanadas, Jamerikan Jerk, Tri-Tip Trolley and Chocolate Things 707.
Click through the above gallery to check out the eats you can expect to find at The SoCo Market’s Fork’n Good Food Festival.
‘Check, Please!’ visits Napa
On its Nov. 14 episode, “Check, Please!” visits Villa Corona in Napa, where the crew samples “delicious Mexican favorites like platos de carne and tacos de pescado.”
The family-owned Villa Corona, which also has locations in Vacaville and St. Helena, originally began as Villa Azteca in 1972. It changed names to Villa Corona in 1983. The restaurant is known for generous servings, friendly service and an artsy atmosphere (catch the Mexican-themed paintings adorning the walls).
Before his death in 2011, Evert Person spent 40 years as publisher of The Press Democrat, retiring after selling the paper to The New York Times Company in 1985. Norma Person was part of the group of investors who returned The Press Democrat to local ownership in 2012.
The late architect William Turnbull, Jr. designed the five-bedroom, five-bathroom, 7,681-square-foot Santa Rosa home. Turnbull was one of the architects known for his iconic home designs in The Sea Ranch development in the 1960s.
Living room. (Ned Bonzi / Sotheby’s International Realty)
On a 4.3-acre site overlooking the Wine Country Polo Club, Turnbull created a unique dwelling combining his typical modern, light-on-the-land design approach with finishes that have a traditional influence.
Coffered ceilings, paneled walls and white-mullioned windows offer the grand and more decorated look that’s often eschewed in contemporary home designs. The result is a home that is cleanly modern but veers from austere to elegant.
Amenities include an infinity pool and spa. The three-bedroom, two-bathroom guest house is a generous 1,300 square feet.
For more information on this property at 775 White Oak Drive, contact listing agent Sandra Ormerod, 707-974-1372, 707-935-2288; Gael Bruno, 415-309-9094, 415-901-1747; Sotheby’s International Realty – Wine Country – Sonoma Brokerage, 793 Broadway, Sonoma, sothebysrealty.com
Three new luxury homes are available on Live Oak Farm, a so-called agrihood — a neighborhood connected to working a farm. (Michael Woolsey)
Homebuyers yearning to bring the slow food movement closer to home may see a unique opportunity at Live Oak Farm Lane in Petaluma. Three new luxury homes and four ready-to-build lots are available on the property, dubbed an “agrihood,” a neighborhood with a communal working farm.
Exemplifying the area’s history is the 100-year-old oak tree and four original farmhouses that stand on the 30-acre property today. Green energy entrepreneur Randy Goldstein purchased the site in 2014. Goldstein partnered with local experts to create a development that would deepen residents’ connection to the land as well as their food sources.
Great room in a home at Live Oak Farm in Petaluma, which also includes a communal farm. (Darren Loveland)View from the great room. (Darren Loveland)
Live Oak Farm will eventually be a neighborhood of 14 homes on seven two-acre sites alongside the community farm. The property also has a modern pavilion that functions as an educational venue. Home prices start at $3,600,00.
Interior color palettes are tranquil, lending focus to the surrounding terrain — the golden hills and green farmland. Exquisite stone, tile and wood elements deliver this subtlety with rich pattern and texture.
For more information on the homes and lots at Live Oak Farm Lane, contact listing agents Tim Little, 707-849-9570, Alexa Glockner, 415-710-3663, Hedge Realty, 103 H St., Suite B, Petaluma, homeatliveoakfarm.com
For the September/October 2024 issue of Sonoma Magazine, our wine team compiled 22 of Sonoma County’s most iconic vineyards, with recommendations of wines to try from each. To get a closer look beyond the vines, meet four winegrowers behind some of the renowned local vineyards.
Everardo Robledo
Hirsch Vineyards
This year will be the 36th harvest for viticulturist Everardo Robledo, who comes from a family of master grapegrowers in Napa and the Carneros. Alongside David Hirsch and David’s daughter, Jasmine Hirsch, Robledo has farmed this spot vine by vine, dialing in the right combination of cover crop and water and trellising to bring out the essence of place.
“We keep our own philosophy, the Hirsch philosophy. We never go for high yield, no. We have to follow our own way.”
Everardo Robledo, viticulturist and grower at Hirsch Vineyards. (Kim Carroll/Sonoma Magazine)
Robledo and his wife raised four children in a redwood-shaded home adjacent to the vineyards that are his life’s work (the kids took one of the longest bus rides in the state to get to school, winding inland for nearly two hours — after a 20-minute drive down from the ridge to the bus stop). Robledo’s youngest son, 17-year-old Ricky, now works at Hirsch alongside his father.
“Sometimes I feel tired,” says Robledo. “But I have in my mind that we have to keep going, to continue to do what we have to do… Burt Williams told me if you have a problem in the vineyard, just think it through. It’s not the same problem every time. You can have a lot of experience, but you’re always learning.”
Steve Dutton
Dutton Ranch
Fifth-generation farmer Steve Dutton has a special bond with the Dutton Ranch vineyard; his dad planted it on the family ranch the same year he was born, in 1967. For more than 35 years, Dutton has farmed his “brother” vineyard, plus more than 60 additional Sonoma County sites. He attributes the vineyard’s distinctive character to its location on an eroded hillside in Green Valley.
Steve Dutton, co-owner of Dutton Family Ranch northwest of Sebastopol. (Courtesy of Dutton Family Ranch)
“The soil is typical Goldridge sandy loam,” he says, with a clay layer at the bottom. “The Chardonnay gets lots of green apple and high acidity.”
While some growers say they feel anxious at harvest time, Dutton looks forward to the season.
“It is the best time of year, by far, and the most exciting,” he says. “It’s satisfying to make a product that starts out in our field. Then I love to bring people back to the vineyard and say, ‘You’re drinking wine from this field right here.’ Wine is one of the few things that you can trace all the way back to the land.”
Katey Bacigalupi Row
Bacigalupi Vineyards
Katey Bacigalupi Row of Bacigalupi Vineyards near Healdsburg. (Courtesy Bacigalupi Vineyards)
Katey Bacigalupi Row grew up on her family’s Goddard Ranch, home to the “Paris Tasting” Chardonnay block that helped Chateau Montelena beat its French counterparts in the famous 1976 showdown. Now, as co-manager of Bacigalupi Vineyards with her twin sister Nicole Bacigalupi Dericco, she is involved with everything from daily growing operations to managing the Bacigalupi wine brand.
What makes Goddard Ranch special, she says, is its longevity. “You don’t get old vine Chardonnay very often,” says Row. “It’s not planted in the ideal setting — it’s in a rocky volcanic clay, so the vines struggle a lot.”
While emotions run high at harvest time, Row says it’s worth the effort to see the culmination of the year’s work. “It’s an incredible privilege to [be part of] what my parents and grandparents have worked for.”
Zureal Bernier
Bernier Zinyard
Sometimes, what defines a great vineyard isn’t what the grower does in the field, but what they don’t do.
Zureal Bernier picks and process northern Italian red green garlic in the Dry Creek valley near Healdsburg March 23, 2023. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
“We’re not watering and we’re not fertigating. We are not coddling these vines,” says Bernier, who helped plant and develop Bernier Zinyard in Dry Creek Valley with his father, Paul, a longtime practitioner of dry-farming. “They express exactly what they are, which are vines growing from the land in almost a semi-wild manner.”
Born and raised on Bernier Farms, he says the most important thing he’s learned from his dad is to trust in nature.
“We are living in a changing climate, but these vines are strong and resilient,” says Bernier. “It’s easy to worry when it’s 100-plus degrees, but it doesn’t do me any good. It’s better to accept the season as it progresses.”
Gap’s Crown vineyard northeast of Penngrove. (Dan Quiñones/Courtesy Three Sticks Wines)
Any winemaker worth their boots will tell you that great wines are made in the field. To work with grapes that have been grown with integrity, and to allow that fruit to express the ineffable qualities of soil and sun and weather, is what winemaking is all about.
If you’re new to wines from Sonoma County, think of this feature as an interesting cross-section of what the county is known for, at all price ranges — a shortcut to worthwhile sites and bottles to try. When you come across one of these vineyards or producers at a local bottle shop or on a restaurant’s wine list, you’re in for an interesting adventure.
Level up by using individual listings to seek out different expressions of a single vineyard from two or more different producers. Open the wines side-by-side, and see what you can taste in the way each winemaker has interpreted those grapes. Wines made from these celebrated sites “wear their dirt,” as we like to say — they bring our region to life.
Hirsch Vineyards northeast of Jenner. (Kim Carroll / Sonoma Magazine)
Hirsch Vineyards
Fort Ross-Seaview AVA, 6 miles northeast of Jenner
Pinot Noir, Chardonnay
Producers: Hirsch Vineyards, Williams Selyem, Twomey
This renowned vineyard wouldn’t exist without the vision of David Hirsch, who bought a former sheep ranch on a remote, windswept ridgetop with a view of the Pacific in 1978 and planted his first vines two years later. As the story goes, Hirsch, who had worked in the fashion business, didn’t necessarily have grapegrowing in mind for the second chapter of his life. A winemaker friend visiting from Santa Cruz told Hirsch that if he planted grapes, the wines could be world-class. The “geologic jumble” of a site, a mile from the San Andreas fault, with 72 planted acres across dozens of different soil types, has been farmed biodynamically since 2011.
“Viticulture is a multi-generational endeavor. My father is going to be 80 next month, and he’s planting new vineyards, and replanting vineyards — and, you know, he’s not doing it for himself. It’s something that you do for the future, not knowing when the peak expression of that vineyard will emerge. Maybe somebody else will make those wines. It’s about getting to be a part of something that is so much bigger than us, and has such a long timescale.”– Jasmine Hirsch, winemaker, Hirsch Vineyards
Atop Monte Rosso Vineyard above Valley of the Moon, 1880’s zinfandel grapes are in veraison, Saturday, August 1, 2020. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
Monte Rosso
Moon Mountain AVA, in Sonoma Valley, about 2.5 miles northeast of Agua Caliente
Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Semillon
Producers: Louis M. Martini, Scribe Winery, Robert Biale Vineyards, Turley Wine Cellars
This storied vineyard — originally called Mount Pisgah — dates back to 1886, when San Francisco grocers Emmanuel Goldstein and Benjamin Dreyfus planted Zinfandel and Sémillon at the site. Some of their original vines are still in production today, and the Sémillon plantings are among the world’s oldest. Louis M. Martini bought the vineyard in 1938 and renamed it Monte Rosso (“red mountain”) for its red volcanic soils. He added Cabernet Sauvignon in 1940 — also still in production — then expanded plantings to include Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Rhône varieties. Gallo bought the 250-acre vineyard in 2022 along with Louis M. Martini Winery.
“Cabernet Sauvignon from Monte Rosso has this beautiful blue fruit quality and floral aspect. The tannins are usually what you expect with mountain fruit or very high elevation fruit — very rustic — but they are much more supple at lower Brix levels. For the style of wines we like to make, which are a little bit lower in alcohol and higher acidity, that’s a perfect match for us.” – Gustavo Sotelo, director of winemaking, Scribe Winery
Three to Try:
Louis M. Martini Winery 2021 Monte Rosso Vineyard Gnarly Vine Zinfandel, $100. louismartini.com
Scribe Winery 2021 Monte Rosso Cabernet Sauvignon, $88. scribewinery.com
Robert Biale Vineyards 2022 Monte Rosso Zinfandel, $85. biale.com
Gap’s Crown vineyard northeast of Penngrove. (Dan Quiñones/Courtesy Three Sticks Wines)Pinot Noir vines just a few days from picking at Gap’s Crown Vineyard Thursday, Sept. 7, 2023, in the hills east of Penngrove. The grapes from the 400-acre vineyard are coveted by Kosta Browne, Three Sticks, Gary Farrell, Marine Layer and other highly regarded Sonoma County wineries. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Gap’s Crown
Petaluma Gap AVA, 3.5 miles northeast of Penngrove
Pinot Noir, Chardonnay
Producers: Three Sticks Wines, Sojourn Cellars, Blue Farm Wines, Patz & Hall Winery, Trombetta Family Wines
Many winemakers view this 137-acre hillside vineyard as the crown jewel of the Petaluma Gap appellation. Sitting at an elevation of 300-900 feet, the rocky site is heavily impacted by cooling afternoon winds and fog that flow from the Pacific Ocean through a gap in the coastal mountain range, through the town of Petaluma and south to San Pablo Bay.
Premier Pacific Vineyards developed Gap’s Crown in 2002-2005, and in 2012, Bill Price III of Three Sticks Wines purchased the vineyard. Maritime influence, diverse soils and a range of elevations all contribute to the concentration and balance of Gap’s Crown Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
“I work with two Pinot Noir clones, Dijon 667 and Dijon 777, and Gap’s Crown showcases them beautifully. The constant breeze helps drive the deep fruit and spicy profile of the wine. What I love about the vineyard is that it always delivers. Even with the fluctuating weather each year, the vines are always balanced and can handle the changes in weather. My Gap’s Crown bottling has a distinct voice and adds a great, full-bodied, slightly more coastal element to my lineup of Pinot Noir.” – Anne Moller-Racke, winegrower and proprietor, Blue Farm Wines
David Ramey, winemaker at Ramey Wine Cellars, produces Chardonnay using grapes from Ritchie Vineyard near Forestville. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Ritchie Vineyard
Russian River Valley AVA, Eastside Road, 3 miles northeast of Forestville
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir
Producers: DeLoach Vineyards, Arista Winery, DuMOL, Domaine de la Rivière, Woodenhead Vintners, Ramey Wine Cellars
Planted in 1972, Kent Ritchie’s property is iconic for its ancient seabed of sandy Goldridge soil laced with volcanic ash and pockets of tufa rocks. Original vines still thrive here, draping gnarled trunks on rock dappled grounds following the downslope of a volcanic vent jutting up through the sandstone — a rare terroir for Russian River Valley. Winemakers consistently sign up on a wish list to buy more fruit.
“Like all great vineyards, Ritchie has a factor limiting its vigor — in this case, the layer of tuff prevents vine roots from growing too deep (in search of water). Our 20 rows of vines happen to be an alluring field blend of Old Wente and Musqué selections — part of the original 1972 planting — giving the wine structure, balance and aromatic complexity.” – David Ramey, winemaker, Ramey Wine Cellars
Domaine de la Rivière 2021 Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay, $85. domaineriviere.com
Leaves at Montecillo Vineyards are pulled to create airflow and sun exposure above the Valley of the Moon, Thursday, July 30, 2020. The head-trained Cabernet and other varietals were planted in the 1960s. To the west, Sonoma Mountain peaks above the typical summer marine layer. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
Montecillo Vineyard
Moon Mountain AVA, at the top of Nelligan Road, near Glen Ellen
Cabernet Sauvignon
Producers: Stewart Cellars, Bedrock Wine Co., Turley Wine Cellars, Arnot-Roberts, Di Costanzo, Beta Wines, DuMOL
At the top of the Mayacamas Mountains that separate Sonoma from Napa, and topping out at 1,800-2,200 feet, Montecillo has views across the entire northern Sonoma Valley. The site was originally planted in the late 1850s, which invites a sense of awe at the fortitude it took to look up and imagine planting a vineyard at the wild, rocky, windswept mountain summit — entirely by hand. These days, Montecillo’s highly prized mountaintop Cabernet Sauvignon comes from dry-farmed vines that date to the 1960s. Blair Guthrie, winemaker at Stewart Cellars, which purchased Montecillo in 2022, has traced Montecillo’s history and believes his family is only the fourth owner in over 160 years.
“It’s definitely a very magic site. We believe it was planted in 1857, which always blows my mind because California was barely a state. And it blows my mind that people were up on the mountain that early on — viticulture wasn’t really anything back then, and what was existing was all on the valley floor… The other thing is that the vineyard just does really well — it’s a very low-input vineyard. It seems to have this magic terroir where the soil is so rich and giving that the vineyard is just super healthy. Even in difficult years it still produces magic wine.” – Blair Guthrie, winemaker, Stewart Cellars
Three to Try:
Bedrock Wine Co. 2021 Montecillo Old Vine Cabernet Sauvignon. bedrockwineco.com
Francis Mahoney, a champion of Carneros as a prime growing region for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay since the 1970s, planted Las Brisas in 1997 at the site of a former dairy farm. Its name pays tribute to the winds that drive morning fog from the vineyards and deliver cooling marine breezes in the late afternoon. These conditions help the grapes mature slowly, with plenty of hang time, resulting in a bright and juicy profile across varieties. Still owned by Mahoney’s Carneros Wine Company, Las Brisas is planted to 91 acres, including Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Vermentino, Pinot Blanc, Albariño and Riesling.
“I’ve been a longtime admirer of Francis Mahoney and his willingness to plant alternative white varieties. Being at the southern end of Sonoma County brings a great cooling effect to the vineyard that buffers the warmer temperatures in areas to the north. There’s a great natural acidity in these varieties at this vineyard, and distinct freshness and vibrancy that weaves really well into the Marine Layer style of wines.” – Rob Fischer, winemaker, Marine Layer Wines
Three to Try:
Bouchaine Vineyards 2022 Las Brisas Vineyard Pinot Blanc, $46. bouchaine.com
The Sangiacomo family farms 1,600 acres across multiple Sonoma County sites, yet Roberts Road stands out as the growers’ most sought-after vineyard. Planted in 1999 to 130 acres of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the Roberts Road site boasts the uncommon feature of having two watersheds. The vineyard is distinguished by its marine influence and fog that hangs in the vineyard from morning until mid-day. These conditions foster a long, slow ripening process — Roberts Road is typically the last Sangiacomo vineyard to be harvested each year — and exceptionally balanced grapes.
“Roberts Road is one of our latest-ripening Pinots. More coastal vineyards have that bright fruit right off the bat, whereas this also has a lot of other layers going on. It plays well into that nice blend of beautiful fruit, but it has a lot more rustic character as well. The Sangiacomos really care about their land and the people who work for them, and they want everybody to make great wine.” – Katy Wilson, winemaker, Anaba Wines
Three to Try:
Anaba Wines 2021 Pinot Noir, Sangiacomo Roberts Road, $74. anabawines.com
Montagne Russe 2021 Roberts Road Chardonnay, $50. russewines.com
Saintsbury Winery 2022 Roberts Road Pinot Noir, $80. saintsbury.com
A Ford E-Transit electric van is parked next to vine rows Tuesday, Jan. 25, 2022, at Dutton Ranch in Sebastopol during a Ford Motor Company demonstration of electric professional vehicles being tested with certain Sonoma County Winegrowers members. (Courtesy of Ford Motor Company)
Dutton Ranch
Green Valley AVA, about 6 miles northwest of Sebastopol
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir
Producers: The Calling, Patz & Hall Winery, Dutton-Goldfield Winery, Kistler Vineyards, Martin Ray Vineyard & Winery
Legendary in Sonoma County grapegrowing circles, the Dutton family farms 1,400 acres of winegrapes and organic apples in the Russian River Valley, Green Valley and Sonoma Coast. The family’s winery property and ranch near Sebastopol is home to the Dutton Ranch vineyard — the grower’s main fruit source and a vineyard designate since 1979.
Warren Dutton planted the original 35-acre plot to Chardonnay in 1967 and it has since grown to include 30 acres of Chardonnay and 10 acres of Pinot Noir. Aside from meticulous farming by Warren’s son Steve Dutton, the vineyard’s special sauce is its location in Green Valley, which runs cooler than other parts of Russian River Valley.
“The distinctiveness of the vineyard is the personality of the site itself. Our Dutton Chardonnay is like our other wines from the neighborhood, but there is an uncanny apple-like sense to the finished wine. It’s as much about the texture, like the snap of biting into a just-ripe Gravenstein apple, as the flavors. With the Pinot Noirs the Duttons grow for us, they have a sense of effortlessness and precision. Working with them is a true partnership and there isn’t a doubt in my mind that it makes the wines better.” – Jason Kesner, winemaker, Kistler Vineyards
This landmark 600-acre ranch with 160 acres of vines lies in a unique setting at the intersection of three different grapegrowing regions, offering elements of each — the cool and foggy coast, the moderating bay influence from the Carneros, and the warmer temperatures of the Sonoma Valley. Nearly every afternoon, a stiff wind blows in, which slows down the ripening of the grapes and helps develop fruit of a nuanced, complex character. It’s a pioneering site in the county, first planted in the 1970s and spawning dozens of top wines from different producers over the years, including its own widely propagated clone of Syrah. The vineyard is owned by vintner Bill Price of Three Sticks Wines, which offers a guided hike through the vineyard on Sundays — an experience worth seeking out.
“I always feel when I’m at Durell that I’m at the confluence of great forces and powers. As you go into the different areas, you see that in the soil, too — you see the ancient riverbeds, you see the sandy, silty soil up top and you see the volcanic pumice stones. You see all this difference and you just know that things are swirling around that one spot. It feels like a sort of nexus.”– Ryan Prichard, director of winemaking, Three Sticks Wines
Three to Try:
Three Sticks Wine 2022 Durell Vineyard Origin Chardonnay, $70. threestickswines.com
Charlie Heintz, owner of Charles Heintz Vineyards & Winery, among the rows of chardonnay grapes at his vineyard, near Occidental. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)
Charles Heintz Vineyard
Sonoma Coast AVA, 1.5 miles northeast of Occidental
Chardonnay
Producers: DuMOL, The Calling, Williams Selyem, DeLoach Vineyards, Littorai Wines
Grower Charlie Heintz’s grandparents bought this ridgetop property in Russian River Valley more than a century ago and planted Zinfandel — among other crops — at the site. During Prohibition, they replaced the vines with apple orchards. The family reentered the wine realm in 1982, replacing most of the apple trees with Chardonnay. That turned out to be a pivotal decision; sitting at an elevation of nearly 1,000 feet and caressed by coastal fog as it flows through the vines, the 50-acre Charles Heintz vineyard is considered one of the Sonoma Coast’s finest, prized by winemakers for its structured, high-acid Chardonnay.
“We’ve crafted so many memorable wines from these magical vines since I first set foot in the vineyard way back in 1998. The wines are incredibly distinctive, unlike anything else in Sonoma or California as a whole, and that’s down to the special vineyard site itself. High elevation, close to the ocean, long-lingering fog influence, late-season ripening, and precise farming combine to give the fruit striking intensity and style.”– Andy Smith, winemaker, DuMOL
Three to Try:
Williams Selyem 2022 Heintz Vineyard Chardonnay, $68. williamsselyem.com
DuMOL 2021 Charles Heintz Vineyard Isobel Chardonnay, $89. dumol.com
Vines planted in 1888 in the 152-acre Bedrock Vineyard in Sonoma Valley. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Bedrock Vineyard
Sonoma Valley AVA, 3 miles northwest of Boyes Hot Springs
Zinfandel and “mixed blacks,” including Carignane, Alicante Bouschet, Petite Sirah and more
Producers: Bedrock Wine Co., Robert Biale Vineyards, Reeve Wines
This 152-acre vineyard has a surprising Civil War connection. Generals William Tecumseh Sherman and Joseph Hooker founded the site, then known as Madrone Ranch, in 1854 and planted the first vines. Senator George Hearst, father of publisher William Randolph Hearst, replanted the vineyard in the 1880s, and it changed hands many times before winemaker Joel Peterson bought it in 2005 and renamed it Bedrock. Today, Peterson’s son Morgan Twain-Peterson of Bedrock Wine Co. farms the historic site, which recently became the world’s first old-vine vineyard to achieve regenerative and organic certification.
“Between the site, the age of the vines and farming practices, fruit from Bedrock shows an intensity that is special in the world of old vine Zinfandel. The concentrated flavors of bramble fruits, violet and dried herbs serve as a foundation, along with the notable Bedrock structure, for our wine that really showcases the vineyard’s identity. The concentration and complexity of the fruit we get from Bedrock is rare and something we always enjoy seeing evolve in barrel and bottle.” – David Natali, winemaker, Robert Biale Vineyards
Bedrock Wine Co. 2022 Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon, $40. bedrockwineco.com
Robert Biale Vineyards 2022 Bedrock Vineyard Zinfandel, $65. biale.com
Winemaker Morgan Twain-Peterson in his Bedrock Vineyard in the Valley of the Moon were he uses ground cover to attract beneficial insects for his old growth vines. Peterson also produces wines for Bedrock Wine Co. using grapes from Teldeschi Vineyards. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Teldeschi Vineyards
Dry Creek Valley AVA, Dry Creek Road, outside Healdsburg
Zinfandel
Producers: Bedrock Wine Co., Once and Future Wine, Carlisle Winery & Vineyards, F. Teldeschi Winery, Del Carlo Winery
Two branches of the Teldeschi family are synonymous with Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel, one of Sonoma County’s signature varieties. In the 1970s and ’80s, Frank and Mike Teldeschi were brothers who shared a driveway but rarely talked. Both brothers and their descendants grow landmark Zinfandel — Ray Teldeschi, son of Mike, now farms four sites in Dry Creek Valley, including his father’s historic home ranch, and sells fruit to Carlisle Winery. And John Teldeschi, son of Frank, farms his father’s ranch and has had a decades-long relationship with pioneering winemaker Joel Peterson of Ravenswood (and now Once and Future Wine), who has called the Zinfandel from Teldeschi a wine that “sings of place.”
“Those are vines that are truly farmed the way they have been for 70 or 80 years, and all dry-farmed. They’re the most beautiful head-trained vines you’ll ever see, because it’s literally one generation that trained the next to prune, which is just so rare to see.” – Morgan Twain-Peterson, winemaker, Bedrock Wine Co.
Sprawled on the western slope of Spring Mountain in the Mayacamas, the 43.5-acre site is relatively young — planted between 2000 and 2002 — but the Fountaingrove AVA is new, too, established in 2015, and is finally earning well-deserved respect for standout terroir and detailed microclimates. This Certified California Sustainable site is revered for its rolling hills of rich, boulder-strewn soils spun from ancient bedrock and volcanics, concentrated in an alluvial fan that all works together to make vines dig deep roots and focus their energy on rich fruit. The site was purchased by Windsor’s Bricoleur Vineyards in 2018. Acclaimed winemaker Bob Cabral, of Williams Selyem and Three Sticks fame, joined the team in 2023.
“The cool, coastal climate is dictated by Pacific winds racing through the nearby Petaluma Gap, with south-facing vine rows attracting optimal sun exposure. Since the estate’s inaugural vintage in 2004, there have been 82 Kick Ranch wines that have received reviews of 90 points or higher from leading critics. We consistently receive waiting list inquiries for Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah and Grenache in particular.”– Bob Cabral, winemaker, Bricoleur Vineyards
Producers: Carlisle Winery & Vineyards, Winery Sixteen 600, Sosie Wines, Loxton Cellars, Dane Cellars, Mayo Family Winery, Jeff Cohn Cellars
Set between two ridges near the back entrance to Trione-Annadel State Park, Rossi Ranch has layered views all the way across the valley to the Mayacamas. The site was originally planted by the Rossi family around 1910 and was farmed by the legendary Val Rossi well into his 80s. Many of the 1910 blocks, including a Zinfandel-forward field blend, were later replanted to Rhône varietals. It’s 42 acres of highly prized, hard-to-come-by fruit, and has earned the nickname the “To Kalon of Grenache” from winemaker Tony Biagi. Fun fact: You can see this vineyard up close on public roads. In Kenwood, Lawndale Road bisects the site, about a half-mile west of the junction with Warm Springs Road.
“The thing that’s so beautiful about Rossi is it sits on this uplift of land, and wherever you look, east or west, there’s an incredible view. When you walk through the vineyard, you have a real sense of the terroir and the history there — I’ll be walking through, just picking up golf-ball-sized pieces of obsidian. It’s surrounded by oak forest on all sides, and I think some of that implants into the vineyard, in a slight sense of herbalness in the fruit.” – Bart Hansen, owner and winemaker, Dane Cellars
This diverse family-owned vineyard with 155 planted acres is at the cooler, southern end of the Alexander Valley near where it meets the Russian River and Chalk Hill valleys. The site was first planted in the 1980s and for years, the family were growers only, selling their fruit to high-end labels like Silver Oak.
The Stuhlmuller family built a small winery in a historic red barn on the property in the early 2000s, where standout winemaker Leo Steen oversaw winemaking for years. (Steen’s protégé, Zac Childers, now heads up the program.) Stuhlmuller’s 30-year-old Chardonnay is highly prized as is the 30-year-old hillside Cabernet Sauvignon, some of which is snapped up by Jesse Katz at Aperture.
“I began here as an intern in 2011 — this place just spoke to me. It was definitely where I saw myself; where I wanted to land. My office looks due east towards Mount Saint Helena, and when I’m up on the catwalk above the tanks, I can follow the treeline down to the Russian River and then up towards Fitch Mountain. We’ve got cattle on the property in the upper hillside, and stands of redwood, Douglas fir, oaks and manzanitas, plus jackrabbits, egrets — a very idyllic setting… One year, we had a bear get into the top block of Chardonnay. It’s a tiny little block and the yields are very low up there with the volcanic soils — but that bear ate really well.”– Zac Childers, winemaker, Stuhlmuller Vineyards
Beyond Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, this is a site that showcases the diversity of grape varieties that grow beautifully in Sonoma County and in Russian River Valley. The ranch has undergone a recent transformation under Healdsburg winemaker Sam Bilbro and owner David Drummond, who bought the 500-acre, high-elevation site in 2018. Bilbro and Drummond knew there was a greater purpose to this site and changed over roughly 50 out of the site’s 70-plus planted acres to unusual, difficult-to-source Italian varieties — 46 different ones. The site has views that stretch across wide swaths of the county, and the grapes are now grown with organic and regenerative farming practices.
“From when I first got there, and this was basically a conventionally farmed production vineyard, to now — it’s vibrant, there’s a diverse clover-based cover crop, and every spring there is crimson clover that is just booming, and you see bees buzzing all over the vineyard, you see other insect life, good predatory insect life. The place is just alive now. It’s alive in the soil, it’s alive in the general ecology you can see, and then it’s alive in the diversity of the plantings. It’s all of that at once.”– Sam Bilbro, winemaker, Idlewild Wines, Comunità
Three to Try:
Idlewild Wines 2023 Freisa Las Cimas Vineyard, $42. idlewildwines.com
Arnot-Roberts 2023 Falanghina Las Cimas Vineyard. arnotroberts.com
Jolie-Laide 2022 Mondeuse Noire Las Cimas Vineyard, $42. jolielaidewines.com
Winemaker Matt Duffy checks bud break on Pinot Noir vines in the Bacigalupi Vineyard near Healdsburg, March 28, 2024. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Bacigalupi Vineyard
Russian River Valley AVA, on Westside Rd., near Healdsburg
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir
Producers: Williams Selyem, Russian River Vineyards, Vaughn Duffy Wines
The 120-acre homestead Goddard Ranch was established in 1956 by the late Charles Bacigalupi, along with wife Helen. Today, the winery is still run by several generations of the same family and has expanded to several other nearby vineyards, all flourishing with natural tributaries and springs encouraging distinctive cool-climate character. Goddard is most famous for its Chardonnay block that went into the legendary 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay that won the 1976 Judgment of Paris and helped put the California wine industry on the global map. Lesser-known lore is that Charles Bacigalupi coaxed luminary vintner Karl Wente to give him some French Pinot Noir budwood, one of the first well-documented plantings of the variety in the Russian River Valley.
“Goddard Ranch still boasts some of the original Paris Chardonnay blocks thriving with vines from the 1960s. It’s also home to a massive, ancient oak tree that I love — I visit it when I’m out in the vineyard to admire how beautiful the whole property is.”– Ashley Herzberg, winemaker, Bacigalupi Vineyards
View of Lake Sonoma near Florence Vineyard in Geyserville. (Courtesy of Jack Florence)Florence Vineyard near Lake Sonoma. (Jack Florence Jr./Courtesy Florence Vineyard)
Florence Vineyard
Rockpile AVA, near Lake Sonoma
Zinfandel, Petite Sirah
Producers: Florence Vineyard, Rockpile Vineyards, Calafia Cellars, Mazzocco Sonoma, Pezzi King Vineyards, Carol Shelton Wines
On a high ridgetop bordering the far northwest corner of Dry Creek, overlooking the two long arms of Lake Sonoma, is the Rockpile AVA, one of the most unforgiving, out-there places to grow grapes in Sonoma County. Wildfire and drought are constant concerns, as is the nearby presence of the Rodgers Creek fault. In 1994, Jack Florence Jr. planted the first blocks of the now-legendary Rockpile Zin, bringing over budwood from Cloverdale’s tiny, hundred-year-old St. Peter’s Church Vineyard. His family is one of the pioneers here, along with the Gloeckners of Westphall Ranch, the Park family of Rockpile Vineyards (now owned by Wilson Artisan Wines), and the Mauritsons of Mauritson Wines. At 1,200 feet in elevation, Florence’s 12-acre vineyard is a rocky, northward-facing site that yields fruit with intense flavors and a distinct minerality. Florence has sold the fruit for decades and began making his own wine in 2020.
“It’s just the sheer ruggedness of it, the closeness with nature. It’s quiet enough that you really feel like you’re in another world. So much of Sonoma County is close into towns now, but this is one of those places that is still way out there. The way the fog rolls in over the hills and comes up from Lake Sonoma, gives that surreal feel to it and puts you at one with nature.”– Jack Florence Jr., Florence Vineyard
Autumn leaves of pinot noir grape vines at Terra de Promissio vineyard on South Ely Road in Petaluma, Monday, Nov. 6, 2023. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Terra de Promissio
Petaluma Gap AVA, about 4 miles east of downtown Petaluma
Pinot Noir
Producers: Williams Selyem, The Calling, Gary Farrell Winery
Gently rolling hills overlook the Petaluma River, spanning 50 acres kissed by wind and fog flowing from the Sonoma Coast and San Pablo Bay. As the name says, this is “the land of promise.” The first 32 acres were planted in 2002, with every row farmed as it is today, customized to each client winemaker’s meticulous instructions. The property’s Dijon clones produce smaller berries and clusters, but that’s what makes the fruit so coveted for its concentrated flavors and mischievous nature that ambitious winemakers love to pamper. Terra de Promissio’s own wines are so valued that they are allocated almost exclusively to its members.
“We get just 5 tons from two blocks from this gem of a property, but I love its ideal terroir for its balance of earth and fruit characteristics. The soil, sun exposure, hill elevation, vine density, and the wind and fog of the Petaluma Gap all contribute to the grapes developing a slow maturation and extended hang time. This results in intensely flavored grapes and a chemistry for age-worthy wines.”– James MacPhail, winemaker, The Calling
The historic 16-acre vineyard is a very rare, dry-farmed field blend of some 21 varieties, planted between 1922 and 1924 by Italian immigrant Luca Mancini amid still-existing ancient oak, walnut, apple, pear and plum trees. While lots of Zin and a good amount of Carignane dominate, the site is a wonderland of so many obscure grapes that it becomes a magical adventure exploring them all. Abouriou, Blauer Portugeiser and Elbling are just a few of the delights. In 2018, current vineyard owner Max Reichwage grafted even more marvels like Mondeuse, Plavac Mali and Clairette Blanche. Reichwage is working diligently to restore the previously neglected property’s soil and vine health, honoring a truly unique salute to Sonoma County’s winemaking roots.
“The old vines tend to produce very little fruit (about 1 ton per acre) and are very fragile — many of the trunks would topple over if we didn’t manage them so carefully. But I bought this vineyard to satisfy my own curiosity about the plantings, and also as a way to evaluate more heat-tolerant varieties due to our warming climate and drought. There is even one unknown variety of teinturier (rare, red-flesh grapes) that UC Davis does not have in their DNA database, so I jokingly refer to it as ‘Mancini Bouschet.’” – Max Reichwage, winemaker, Reichwage Winery
Reichwage Winery 2021 Mancini Ranch White Wine, $35. reichwage.com
Sunrise on a winter morning at J. Rochioli Vineyards & Winery in Healdsburg. (Kim Carroll)
Rochioli Vineyard
Russian River Valley AVA, on Westside Road, near Healdsburg
Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah
Producers: J. Rochioli Vineyard & Winery, Gary Farrell Winery, Ramey Wine Cellars, Williams Selyem, Castalia Wines, Holdredge Wines, Longboard Vineyards
When visionary winegrower Joe Rochioli Jr. died in 2022 at the age of 88, his obituary noted that he was survived by his family — and the 900,000 vines he lovingly cared for on his family’s ranch. Rochioli Jr. was considered the founding father of Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. Back in 1968, he was likely the first to plant Pinot Noir in the valley, and his son, Tom Rochioli, and grandchildren still oversee the family’s 130 planted acres today. Rochioli was also one of the first to divide their plantings into blocks based on terroir and to make wines separately from those blocks. In addition to the classic Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, Rochioli is known for some of the oldest plantings of Sauvignon Blanc in the state.
“When I walk through those old vineyards, I do think about the past… I remember my grandfather walking through the Sauvignon Blanc vineyard right before he died, looking at those massive vines. If you knew my father — I think I’m much like him. Especially when I was a young guy, finding my way, doing the work, really seeing every vine over and over — you get to know them. You see a plant that was trained a certain way, or grew a certain way, and you recognize it. You get to know their growth patterns. It just really gets in your blood. I think when you love what you do so much, that is all a part of it.” – Tom Rochioli, winemaker, J. Rochioli Vineyard & Winery
Zinfandel isn’t the only crop that Bernier Farms grows on the rugged, dusty hillsides of the Dry Creek and Alexander valleys — the Bernier family also cultivates 14 varieties of garlic — but it’s definitely the most celebrated. Founding grower Paul Bernier learned the secrets of dry farming grapes in the 1970s from “old Italians” who came before him and built a reputation for producing great Zinfandel on marginal land. With help from his son Zureal, Bernier planted Zinfandel on the family’s home ranch in the early 1990s and added Petite Sirah in 2003. The resulting Bernier Zinyard, covering just 2.5 acres and entirely dry-farmed, is the family’s longest-running vineyard designate and a winemaker favorite.
“The soil on their hillside is unique, with a nice mix of sand and loam. The Berniers practice dry-farming, organic composting and use cover crops, all of which make for strongly established but balanced vines. The resulting grapes and wine are always tasty and picked at a lower sugar (content) than many other Zin vineyards to retain their acid and sugar balance. The wine usually finishes in the low 13 percents [in ABV] and has a more delicate, perfumed character than darker, jammier Zinfandels.”–Jamie Peterson, winemaker and general manager, Peterson Winery
It’s no secret Healdsburg is an extravagantly fun and beautiful place to visit. Condé Nast Traveler further attested to its appeal in its 2024 Readers’ Choice Awards, released Oct. 1, in which Healdsburg ranked among the best cities in the United States.
The list, divided into big and small cities, listed Healdsburg as the No. 8 best small city in America. The article states Healdsburg boasts “a wonderful mix of scenic vineyards, buzzy restaurant openings, and a vibe that’s managed to stay breezy and relaxed despite the town’s uptick in popularity.”
This isn’t the first nod to the city from Condé Nast, which called it “Sonoma County’s most charming town” in 2022. To make the most out of your stay, here are some of the best things to do and places to go in Healdsburg.
Healdsburg Plaza. (Kim Carroll)Riverfront Regional Park in Healdsburg. (Mariah Harkey)
Where to go
Starting from the historic Healdsburg Plaza, the recent Condé Nast article recommends making time for the Healdsburg Farmers’ Market to peruse goods and wares from local merchants. The farmers market is open from 9 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. on Tuesdays, May through September, on the Plaza, as well as from 8:30 a.m. to noon on Saturdays, April through December, at the West Plaza parking lot (one block from the town Plaza).
The article also suggests heading to boutique wine shop Ciao Bruto for its “artisanal Italian foods and biodynamic wines.” Ciao Bruto is open daily and offers a variety of wines, including orange wine and rosato (Italian rosé), as well as provisions like pasta, preserves, cheeses, tinned fish, olive oils and more.
Picnic provisions in hand, make your way to Riverfront Regional Park for a lovely hike near the Russian River followed by a picnic lunch under a shady redwood grove.
At Aesthete Winery & Farm in Healdsburg, make a reservation in the Creekside Lounge with its individual, private spaces furnished with Adirondack chairs overlooking the banks of Dry Creek. The open-air retreat is perfect for a picnic, or upscale snacks from the tasting room. (Courtesy of Aesthete Winery & Farm)Uzu-San at SingleThread in Healdsburg. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)Tiramisu French Toast with whipped mascarpone, Raspberry, coffee ice cream and cocoa nibs on Goguette brioche and a Berry Bliss smoothie from the Acorn Cafe Thursday, October 3, 2024 in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
What to taste
With a couple dozen wine bars and tasting rooms, it can be difficult to choose a place to taste in the little city. We recommend the natural wonderland that is Aesthete Winery & Farm, located off Dry Creek Road. The 24-acre property is home to an assortment of wildlife and farm animals, which you can observe (or in some cases, pet) while enjoying a relaxing outdoor wine tasting.
To narrow down your search of where to eat, we compiled some of the best restaurants in Healdsburg. Among them is the world-renowned SingleThread (the only three Michelin-starred restaurant in the county), providing high-end, once-in-a-lifetime dining experiences. There’s also more casual places to take the whole family, like Iggy’s burger shop inside Angela’s Organic Ice Cream (burgers and ice cream in one spot — score!) and the brand new Acorn Cafe, offering a much-needed stellar brunch destination.
Guests at Montage Healdsburg can enjoy wines from the onsite vineyard, made by renowned winemaker Jesse Katz. (Montage Healdsburg)The remodeled Madrona has a plush look that is comfortable yet elegant. (Matthew Millmann)
The Madrona, another Michelin Key winner along with Montage, reopened in 2022 following a $6 million renovation. The 1881-era Victorian hotel features modern design and restored architectural features along with charming antiques.
Last month, Sunset magazine listed Healdsburg’s Harmon Guest House among the best Wine Country hotels. The hotel offers public spaces for local artists, like Maria de Los Angeles, as well as alfresco dining on The Rooftop terrace, overlooking Fitch Mountain.
For more places to sip, eat, play and stay in Healdsburg, along with the rest of Sonoma County, stay tuned on sonomamag.com.
Tiramisu French toast with whipped mascarpone, Raspberry, coffee ice cream and cocoa nibs on Goguette brioche and a Berry Bliss smoothie from the Acorn Cafe Thursday, October 3, 2024 in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Healdsburg is known for many things, but breakfast isn’t one of them. Despite a wealth of fine dining options for lunch and dinner, there are precious few spots to tuck into a hearty pancake breakfast, eggs Benedict or morning mimosa.
Acorn Café is staking a syrup-soaked claim on that void with its over-the-top takes on breakfast, brunch and lunch. The lineup includes tiramisu French toast, a brown butter hollandaise Benedict and quite possibly the world’s most inspired fried chicken sandwich.
A tasty low and no-alcohol and cocktail menu and wine list create a Sunday brunch feel even on weekday mornings.
‘Shop Local’ Benedict with Journeyman bacon, brown butter Hollandaise and Acorn breakfast potatoes from the Acorn Cafe Thursday, October 3, 2024, in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
“Here you can detox, re-tox and repeat,” said chef/owner Beryl Adler. The longtime fine-dining chef has worked in far-off locales like Bali, Australia and the Caribbean, but saw an opening for a sit-down café in Healdsburg dedicated to morning and early afternoon eats.
“In my experiences throughout Asia and Australia, I saw that breakfast can be fun, colorful and nourishing, and that’s what I wanted to bring here,” he said.
Acorn Cafe is a Healdsburg gem for lunch and brunch
The former Oakville Grocery has been reborn as a joyful, light-filled downtown gathering spot decorated in sunkissed oranges and blues with modern wood accents. There’s plentiful seating inside and on the patio, which is warmed by a built-in fireplace.
And though Adler’s globe-trotting days are fond memories, he loves the small-town charm of Healdsburg, where he can spend time with his wife and young daughter. As a dad, he was emphatic that the café welcome families, offering a special children’s menu, book-borrowing and a toy corner.
“There’s something touching about this tight-knit community of 12,000 people. It’s got that small-town charm and ultra-luxury feel, the best of both worlds,” Adler said. “That’s why we wanted to call it home.”
Fried chicken sandwich with housemade teriyaki sauce and pickled vegetables from Acorn Cafe in Healdsburg. (Acorn Cafe)Lemon Ricotta Hotcake with Acorn house lemon curd, whipped ricotta, oat crumble and lemon lavender ice cream from the Acorn Cafe Thursday, October 3, 2024 in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Best Bets
Fried Chicken Sando, $21: After suffering from a litany of distressingly over- or undercooked fried chicken sandwiches, I’m cautious about ordering them. Adler’s, however, had my attention with a Goguette Bread togarashi-topped bun (made specially for Acorn), housemade teriyaki sauce, pickled carrots and daikon and a slather of spicy mayo. Each bite is creamy, crunchy, sweet, pickle-y and delicious, with a restrained crunch that tickles rather than tearing up the inside of your mouth. Required eating.
Lemon Ricotta Hotcake, $15: If you’ve seen the ridiculously fluffy Japanese pancakes starring on every food blogger’s social media pages, you’ll get this pillow-top hotcake. Impressively large without the overpowering bitterness of too much baking powder. Adler says the ricotta cheese helps puff up the batter. Served with lemon lavender ice cream from nearby Noble Folk bakery.
Tiramisu French toast, $16: Almost too cute to eat, this dessert-for-breakfast concoction starts with Goguette brioche, adding a layer of pressed cacao nibs and topped by kisses of whipped mascarpone and coffee ice cream.
Tiramisu French Toast with whipped mascarpone, Raspberry, coffee ice cream and cocoa nibs on Goguette brioche from the Acorn Cafe Thursday, October 3, 2024 in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Shop Local Benedict, $20: Brown butter takes this hollandaise to the next level, turbo-powering the sauce with flavor. Fat slices of Journeyman bacon and perfectly poached eggs make this a new brunch favorite. Served with roasted and togarishi-spiced purple and sweet potatoes.
Green Eggs & Ham, $18: This Turkish-inspired egg dish may have a silly name, but it’s dead-serious delightful. Two poached eggs sit atop a pool of herby yogurt and zesty Egyptian dukkah spice, begging for enthusiastic dipping of grilled sourdough toast. It would be equally delicious without the generous slice of salty ham, but Sam-I-Am might be disappointed.
Buckeye Cocktail, $15: Skip the orange juice for this punchy cocktail made with tangy Seville orange aperitif, turmeric, ginger tonic and lemon.
Blood Orange Spritz, $10: Aperol spritz and mimosas are so last week. Brunch has a new bestie in this sweet and tart porch-pounder that’s refreshing, fizzy and a perfect foil to rich dishes.
Acorn Café also offers grab-and-go salads and sandwiches, juices and smoothies. Open 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Thursday to Sunday with an all-day menu 8 a.m. to 3 p.m., and a cocktail and snack menu 3 to 5 p.m. 124 Matheson St., Healdsburg, acornhealdsburg.com
