Inside Songbird Parlour, an event space in Glen Ellen. (Songbird Parlour)
According to owners Lauren Kershner and Kenneth De Alba, Jack London Village’s Victorian lounge and event venue, Songbird Parlour, will open as a full-time restaurant in November.
The modern, farm-to-table menu, created by chef Eric Moulton, will include dishes like roasted beets with Grazin’ Girl Gorgonzola and crispy shallots; stuffed California dates with housemade chorizo and Achadinha fromage blanc; and seared duck breast with hand-ground heirloom polenta.
Chef Eric Moulton of Songbird Parlour in Glen Ellen. (Songbird Parlour)
Kershner will curate a hyper-local wine list with daily social hours from 3:30 to 5 p.m. spotlighting different winemakers. The 42-seat lounge and restaurant will host live music events and comedy nights. Private dining options will also be offered. Stay tuned for more opening details.
The space was formerly home to Mo’z, a breakfast and brunch restaurant that closed in September. Subject to health and building permitting, owners hope for a late 2024 opening. The new restaurant is not affiliated with the much-missed Bollywood restaurant on Fourth Street, which shuttered in 2020.
19Ten Bar & Provisions on Fourth Street in Santa Rosa, Oct. 10, 2024. The bar closed after a year in business and $1 million in upgrades. (Maci Martell / Sonoma Magazine)
When restaurateurs JC Adams and Brad Barmore opened KIN restaurant on the Windsor Town Green in 2011, they banked on the continued growth and energy of the family-friendly community. Thirteen years later, the decision has paid off with a thriving business.
The duo took another chance on Santa Rosa’s Railroad Square last summer, opening 19Ten bar and restaurant in the sprawling Jack & Tony’s location as a new wave of businesses looked to invigorate the historic district. Despite a popular menu and critical praise, the restaurant couldn’t catch the same lightning in a bottle. It permanently closed in early October.
“The traffic never materialized the way we hoped,” said Barmore, who also co-owns Healdsburg’s KinSmoke.
Though they spent $1 million updating the space with new lighting fixtures, furniture and kitchen upgrades, Barmore said that perceived parking and safety issues at night contributed to an already challenging landscape for restaurateurs plagued by rising food costs and staffing shortages.
“The hardest thing is to look people in the face you consider family and friends, and who went through the battle of opening a restaurant, and tell them you can’t hold up your end of the bargain,” Barmore said.
Kona Kampachi Ceviche with avocado, kohlrabi, citrus kosho from The Matheson in Healdsburg on Friday, November 5, 2021. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
You’re more likely to find ostrich boots and luxury Land Rovers around the Healdsburg Plaza than the dusty cowboy boots and dirty pickup trucks that populate Sonoma’s richest agricultural acreage.
Now winkingly referred to as “Beverly Healdsburg,” longtime locals chafe at the influx of tech moguls, hedge funders and celebrities who are buying second (or fifth) homes in the region and driving up the cost of, well, everything.
But without the influx of money, Healdsburg wouldn’t be the gastro-destination it’s become over the past 20 years. It has the highest concentration of Michelin stars, celebrity chefs and awe-inspiring menus in the North Bay. Patrons of its restaurants allow chefs to push boundaries, explore new ideas and take big risks that wouldn’t be possible elsewhere.
Change is inevitable, especially as more and more city-dwellers discover Wine Country’s charms. Hopefully, however, Healdsburg will keep some of that agricultural ethos that made it so charming in the first place.
Here are some of my favorite restaurants worth trying (or revisiting).
Neighborhoody
Guiso Latin Fusion: At this cozy Healdsburg hideaway, chef Carlos Mojica does gastro-magic in a way that isn’t precious just for the sake of being impressive. Instead, the young chef tells captivating stories with each better-than-the-next dish — from his grandmother’s secret recipe for Latin-style tomato sauce and his mother’s daily preparation of Salvadoran pupusas, stuffed with flower buds and cheese or the Pao de Queijo (Brazilian cheese bread) inspired by a childhood friend. Though the petite restaurant is a hometown favorite, it still floats under the radar of most dining guides, making it a hidden gem in a town dominated by showy Michelin stars. 117 North St., Healdsburg, 707-431-1302, guisolatinfusion.com
The Gallery Burger with fresh thyme, gruyère, caramelized onions with a table side pour of bordelaise sauce from Studio Barndiva in Healdsburg. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
HBG–Healdsburg Bar and Grill: Owned by a Michelin-starred chef, this casual bistro is where Healdsburg comes to grab a burger, beer-battered onion rings, fried chicken sandwiches and local beers. Plus, it has the area’s best Bloody Mary. 2245 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-433-3333, healdsburgbarandgrill.com
Gallery Barndiva: Kick back in this expansive art and dining space for a craft cocktail, The Gallery Burger (a hamburger stuffed with cheese in a Bordelaise sauce) and thoughtful conversation. Watch for upcoming events that highlight environmental visionaries. 237 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-431-7404, barndiva.com
Lunchy
Iggy’s: What if a Big Mac was made with two organic beef and tallow patties sandwiched between three Hawaiian buns, with organic cheddar and topped with housemade “million island” sauce? What if that burger was available inside an ice cream shop? And what if that burger (with twice-cooked fries, natch) was one of the most affordable meals in Healdsburg? Iggy’s is the answer. A mom-and-son collab that includes some of the best burgers and ice cream in the county. 109 Plaza St., Healdsburg. Information is online at instagram.com/iggysburger
Journeyman Meat Co.: Hidden away off the Plaza, this warm yet minimalist space showcases hand-operated Berkel meat slicers, hanging salumis, extensive wine racks, a wood-fired pizza oven and casual seating for sharing plates of charcuterie, pizzas, sausages, sandwiches and a glass of wine. As a butcher shop, it holds a carefully curated case of estate beef and heritage breed pork, along with bacon, smoked and fresh sausages and assorted salumi. 404 Center St, Healdsburg, journeymanmeat.com
Brunchy
Acorn Cafe: Chef Beryl Adler’s cheery cafe is staking a syrup-soaked claim to fame for its outrageous takes on breakfast, brunch and lunch standards that include tiramisu French toast, a brown butter Hollandaise Benedict and quite possibly the world’s most inspired fried chicken sandwich. A tasty low and no-alcohol and cocktail menu and wine list give a Sunday brunch feel even on weekday mornings. 124 Matheson St., Healdsburg, acornhealdsburg.com
Tiramisu French toast at Acorn Cafe in Healdsburg. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Parish Cafe: With all of the easy of The Big Easy, the New Orleans cafe draws you in with homey charm, Southern comfort and a menu that’s pure French Quarter. Open for breakfast and lunch, you’ll be hard-pressed to find more authentic Louisiana cooking this side of the mighty Miss. 60A Mill St., Healdsburg, 707-431-8474, theparishcafe.com
Alter Egos
Troubadour & Le Diner: Chefs Melissa Yanc and Sean McGaughey, the owners of the popular Quail & Condor bakery, run this beloved boulangerie and sandwich shop by day and French bistro by night. Wednesday through Saturday evenings, McGaughey riffs on French classics at “Le Diner.” The prix fixe menu changes seasonally, but expect picture-perfect courses made in the tiny cafe kitchen. $125 per person by prepaid reservation only. 381 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-756-3972, troubadourhbg.com
Le Diner at Troubadour Bread and Bistro in Healdsburg. (Emma K. Creative)
Great Drinks, Great Food
Lo & Behold: Want to know where off-duty restaurant staff hang out? You’ll find them here, kicking back with a craft cocktail and shareable plates like Vietnamese crepes with pork belly, gussied-up chicken tenders, beef brisket tacos, and steamed mussels with chorizo or pimento crab dip. Belly up to the bar for the “World’s Best Vodka Soda” with local vodka and “Unicorn Tears.” So good. Open until midnight. 214 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-756-5021, loandbeholdca.com
Matheson, Roof 106: Chef Dustin Valette’s ambitious multistory restaurant complex includes, downstairs, a cocktail bar, a wine wall with by-the-glass vending machines (top-notch stuff, of course) and a more formal dining menu (don’t miss the Tamanishiki Rice Porridge or Aged Sonoma Duck). Upstairs, enjoy pizzas, salads and nibbles on the covered deck. 106 Matheson St., Healdsburg, 707-723-1106, thematheson.com
Willi’s Seafood: Seafood-centric small plates are the order of the day. Don’t miss the lobster roll, Dungeness crab Louie, one of the area’s best raw oyster bars, steamer pots of mussels swimming in PBR and Old Bay, and a selection of seafood tartare. 403 Healdsburg Ave, Healdsburg, 707-433-9191, willisseafood.net
From left, Sherry Sunset, Into the Mine and Best’s Bait cocktails from Roof 106 at The Matheson in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Iconic
Dry Creek Kitchen: Chef Charlie Palmer has updated the dining room and the menu at this clubby Healdsburg institution, though it remains true to his progressive American style. Executive Chef Shane McAnelly has recently taken over the reins, adding twists like seasonal agnolotti and umami-rich proteins. Leave room for clever desserts from their in-house pastry chef. $135 per person, five courses. 317 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-431-0330, drycreekkitchen.com
SingleThread Farm Restaurant: A 15-plus-course tasting menu at this three-Michelin-starred restaurant is an event, not just a night out. Chef Kyle Connaughton’s micro-seasonal dishes are inspired by his time in Hokkaido, Japan, as well as the bounty of the restaurant’s farm. Reservations are required for this once-in-a-lifetime experience. The wine list is one of the best in the area, and that’s saying something. 131 North St., Healdsburg, 707-723-4646, singlethreadfarms.com
A Pumpkin Spice Mousse Bomb with vanilla bean, espresso Chantilly and ginger créme anglaise from the Dry Creek Kitchen in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)At SingleThread restaurant in Healdsburg. (Garrett Rowland/Sonoma County Tourism)
Valette: The eponymous restaurant of chef Dustin Valette somehow manages to be luxurious and casual simultaneously. Go for the “Trust Me” tasting menu that gives the best insight into Valette’s talents, curated ingredients and playfulness. 344 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-473-0946, valettehealdsburg.com
Around the World
Bravas Bar de Tapas: The expansive patio is a year-round draw, with the restaurant’s sangrias, ciders, wines and cocktails served with bites of Iberico ham and manchego cheese, tuna belly salad, mushroom escabeche, bacon-wrapped dates with blue cheese and Marcona almonds. The menu is expansive, so come hungry. 420 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-433-7700, starkrestaurants.com
Taste of Tea: This sweet, family-owned Japanese tea house has homey bento boxes, ramen, rice bowls and hard-to-find onigiri (rice balls). An extensive tea menu has more than 80 choices from around the globe, plus sake cocktails, milk tea and matcha. 109 North St., Healdsburg, thetasteoftea.com
Tisza Bistro: It’s Oktoberfest all year long at this German and Eastern-European restaurant that’s got a legion of fans from Petaluma to Cloverdale. Real deal schnitzel, currywurst and warm apple strudel in a charming couple-run cafe. 165 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-291-5193, tiszabistro.com
Melissa Yanc of Quail & Condor bakery and Troubadour in Healdsburg. (Emma K. Creative)
Baked
Quail and Condor: Two SingleThread alums’ deep dive into bread-making has become a destination bakery with an ever-changing lineup of challah, sourdough loaves, sweet croissants, excellent Kouign Amann, cinnamon rolls and more. Order online to ensure you’ll get something before the cases are stripped bare. 149 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-473-8254, quailandcondor.com
Barbecue chicken, Brisket, Brussels sprouts with bacon, macaroni and cheese, and hush puppies at Kinsmoke in Healdsburg. (Beth Schlanker/The Press Democrat)
Smoked
KINSmoke: With a “non-denominational” approach to regional barbecue, KINSmoke features everything from St. Louis style pork ribs and Texas links to Alabama white sauce, Carolina mustard sauce and Texas brisket. Sides It’s all good, including sides like Bourbon baked beans, frickles and three kinds of slaw. Did me mention the burnt ends? 304 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-473-8440, kinsmoke.com
Coming Soon
Dutch Door Donuts: The former Burdock space has gotten a bright orange paint makeover in preparation for the spring arrival of this Carmel-based doughnut shop. The menu features made-to-order masterpieces of fried dough that come in seasonal flavors like passion fruit and hibiscus, miso caramel, salted brown butter and almond sesame cinnamon. For purists, there’s also vanilla, chocolate and cinnamon. 109A Plaza St., Healdsburg, dutchdoordonuts.com
Sip wine overlooking the water at the new, open-air boathouse pavilions at Cuvaison Winery in Napa. (Courtesy of Cuvaison Winery)
If there were any silver linings to the pandemic, one may be that winery owners discovered the outdoors.
Rather than hosting tastings at a bar or in a lounge, more wineries moved the parties out to patios, lawns and terraces. They had to, of course, to stay in business at the time.
But they soon discovered that guests loved it, sipping while soaking up stunning scenery and connecting with the land where the grapes are grown.
Now, some wineries have taken the idea further, expanding their outdoor amenities so sense of place is a vital part of the wine tasting experience. Discover these new alfresco attractions in one-of-a-kind settings.
Sip wine overlooking the water at the new, open-air boathouse pavilions at Cuvaison Winery in Napa. (Courtesy of Cuvaison Winery)Sip wine by the water at the new, open-air boathouse pavilions at Cuvaison Winery in Napa. (Courtesy of Cuvaison Winery)
Cuvaison Winery
Founded in 1969, the secluded, 400-acre Los Carneros property has always been spectacular, anchored by the Tai Vineyard planted primarily with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. More recently, the winery added a 2,500-square-foot, dog-friendly terrace to the tasting room to capture up-close views of grapevines, rugged open space and, in the distance, a sparkling blue reservoir pond.
Now, with the new, open-air boathouse pavilions, you can linger over estate wines right at the water’s edge. Actually, you taste above the water, since the two redwood and steel trimmed cottages are cantilevered over the pond, for a feeling like you’re floating.
Parties of two to six are private — there are just two boathouses — and include a tour of the vineyard and winemaking cellar, barrel and new release tastings, paired with bites like juicy pork tostadas and fancy sliders. As for actually soaring across the water, that’s a BYOB deal — bring your own boat.
Wine tasting at Aesthete Winery & Farm in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of Aesthete Winery & Farm)At Aesthete Winery & Farm in Healdsburg, make a reservation in the Creekside Lounge with its individual, private spaces furnished with Adirondack chairs overlooking the banks of Dry Creek. The open-air retreat is perfect for a picnic, or upscale snacks from the tasting room. (Courtesy of Aesthete Winery & Farm)
Aesthete Winery & Farm
Debuted this April, the 24-acre property is a natural wonderland, home to a herd of goats and sheep and a hikeable restored creek, as well as a riparian ecosystem that welcomes seasonal steelhead and coho salmon, osprey, red-tailed hawks, golden eagles, blue herons, white cranes, ducks and otters.
You can relax on the farmhouse patio, lawn or picnic tables in a shady grove near the “petting zoo” goats. But the best vantage spot is the by-reservation Creekside Lounge, with its individual, private spaces furnished with Adirondack chairs overlooking the banks of Dry Creek. The open-air retreat is perfect for a bring-your-own picnic, or upscale snacks from the tasting room.
Formerly Truett-Hurst Winery, the estate is now owned and operated by Sonoma County native Jeff Jones, who is working with acclaimed winemaker Jesse Katz to produce signatures like Sauvignon Blanc, Rosé and Pinot Noir.
At Cline Family Cellars in Sonoma, taste wine in a cabana overlooking the lavish gardens, grand lawn and pond. (Courtesy of Cline Family Cellars)
Cline Family Cellars
The Cline Family Cellars tasting room is located on the original site of the San Francisco de Solano mission, which was settled as a camp and later moved to the town of Sonoma. The original mission bell now presides over a garden on the 160-acre estate, amid a landscape of 3,000-plus rose bushes, a pond holding dozens of turtles and carp, and a barn paddock for meet-and-greets with resident donkeys Pudding and Fancy.
Choose from several outdoor options, including a hilltop tasting overlooking the Tolay Lake Regional Park area, a casual pondside picnic, or, my recommendation, the newer private cabana tasting.
The three-sided hideaways are flocked in classy white drapes, and bring comfy banquette seating for up to 8 guests. These are nice perches for people watching, since you’re on the edges of the tasting room, lavish gardens, the grand lawn and the pond.
You customize your cabana retreat, with bottle service and an array of nibbles like cheese and charcuterie plates, or a Wine Country Basket packed with goodies like Brie, Manchego cheese, salami, Italian cheese crackers, cookies and fig jam.
Sterling Vineyards gondolas over the valley in Calistoga. (Adam Potts/Courtesy Sterling Vineyards)Sterling Vineyards in Calistoga. (Adam Pots/Sterling Vineyards)
Sterling Vineyards
This impressive, sprawling white winery has held court above Calistoga for 60 years. And, since 1972, guests have marveled at the gondola that (slowly and gently) whisks visitors up the steep northern face of the Mayacamas Mountains.
The grand estate closed after the 2020 Glass Fire, but reemerged three years later, with completely renovated gondolas. The spiffy new ADA compliant rides are much larger and more sleek than the old cabs, with cabins spanning 16 feet tall and with elegant accents like teak seats and tinted glass walls.
I also like that the winery reconfigured the direction of the original gondola trek, so it now offers a longer ride up the northern hillside for even better views. Kudos to the solar power setup, too.
Up top, go for the Hilltop Experience, offering five estate wines that you can only taste at the winery, paired with a local cheese and charcuterie board. And be sure to take time to tour the terraces and gardens after.
Jeff Clark pulls suckers and leafs a vineyard, Saturday, July 6, 2024, during a work party with the Sonoma Winemakers Club. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)
Take a trip through most small towns and you’ll find the usual public amenities: A park, a library, maybe even a pool — but a city vineyard?
Welcome to Tex Juen Park and Vineyard in Sonoma, where about an acre of Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon is meticulously maintained and harvested by a devoted crew of hobby enologists called the Sonoma Home Winemakers.
“It was a big lot of weeds when the city took over,” says Doug Ghiselin, who helped establish the tiny, unassuming vineyard on Leveroni Road near downtown Sonoma in the 1990s, along with namesake Henry “Tex” Juen, better known as a prolific stonemason who built many Sonoma Valley wineries.
“Somebody called it a vineyard. But the only vines that were there at the time were the big, heavy, thick ones — the Sauvignon Blanc at the end of the rows.”
Longtime club officer Doug Ghiselin, left, with Rebecca Kreeger at Ghiselin’s home wine cellar in Sonoma. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)Awards in the basement of Doug Ghiselin’s wine cellar Saturday, July 6, 2024, during a work party with the Sonoma Winemakers Club. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)
Originally calling themselves “The Valley of the Moon Dilettante Enological Society,” the group planted new vines donated by local wineries and grapegrowers. Where once there was a mink farm, and later an artist colony, now there is a “teaching vineyard.” If you want to learn printmaking or ceramics, you go to the local community center. For budding viticulturists and winemakers, there is Tex Juen vineyard.
On a recent morning, midway through another heat wave, Ghiselin and six other members set up a table in the shade alongside the vineyard. They’re part of “the Leveroni Group,” a subgroup within Sonoma Home Winemakers who do most of the care and harvesting. Within minutes, they’re popping a 2019 Merlot, aged in Ghiselin’s makeshift wine cellar, aka a crawlspace beneath his house.
The Merlot tastes like any moderately priced bottle you might pull off the shelf at a local wine shop. To the bikers, joggers and walkers that pass by frequently along the adjacent Fryer Creek Trail, it seems perfectly normal that the group are standing around drinking wine at 11 in the morning.
In 2023, the Leveroni Group filled two barrels each of Chardonnay and Merlot from around 1,000 vines on just over an acre. Other members farm a few additional rows of Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc. Some of the wine will go to the city of Sonoma, for pouring and auctioning off at fundraisers and events. But most is split between members.
Over the years, member Bob Brindley catalogued the most common reactions he gets after pouring homemade wine for the uninitiated. They range from “I’ve had worse” and “it’s drinkable” to “not bad” and “this is really good” — the last comment uttered almost in shock.
Dressing up the morning work party’s picnic table with a tablecloth and a spread of gourmet cheeses and almonds is member Rebecca Kreeger, who joined the group in 2019 after she and her husband bought a home with 63 Cabernet Sauvignon vines that needed caring for. Kreeger’s block was too small to hire a professional vineyard company, so she came to a monthly meeting looking for pruning tips. Before long, she was out in the vineyard with Ghiselin and the gang.
Jeff Clark pulls suckers and leafs a vineyard, Saturday, July 6, 2024, during a work party with the Sonoma Winemakers Club. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)
The group has around 50 devoted members, many who have small vineyards at their homes. They regularly attend monthly meetings, where wine industry guest speakers often share their expertise and year-round vineyard work parties. At the parties they do jobs like pruning, suckering, weeding and sulfur dusting.
Many volunteer at harvest, collecting grapes in truckloads of 5-gallon buckets. Some are retired or semi-retired, while others are near the end of their careers. Vocations include salumi salesman, travel industry executive, fabricator of large-scale art installations, savings and loan asset manager, and newspaper ad rep. One member, Joseph Daniel, made a documentary called “Tiny Vineyards,” and now makes wine professionally.
They all have a similar dream — to make the best possible wine on what is often the smallest scale possible, with the least amount of expensive tools.
Without professional resources, sometimes basic winemaking needs like temperature control can be a challenge. Over the years, there have been plenty of mistakes and lessons learned. About a decade ago, the city cut off the water. The group has been learning to dry-farm ever since, except for new plantings.
One year, they were fermenting Chardonnay in aluminum beer kegs when a newbie filled them too high and all of the kegs bubbled over. Another year, they didn’t have the technology to determine if the wine had gone through malolactic fermentation. They bottled it — and corks started popping when warm weather hit.
“We’re always trying to find ways to make what we do better, or make the wine better, and so a lot of that is learning from experience,” Brindley says. “We’ve had situations where something didn’t work out and was a big disappointment. And other times we’ve seen really, really big improvement.”
In 2020, the Chardonnay was loaded with too much residual sugar, which led to super-high alcohol content. “It was totally oxidized,” says Brindley. “It tasted like a bad sherry, which you don’t want in a Chardonnay.” Most of it went down the drain, but some people distilled it into rubbing alcohol. Kreeger bottled it in plastic spray cans she uses to clean around the house.
Club member Jesse Castro checks on the fruit at the Tex Juen Vineyard in Sonoma. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)
In a way, it’s nothing new. “The Chardonnay never really came out that good back in the day,” says Ghiselin. The reason? “We didn’t have a lot of wine snobs in the group back then,” he says with a dry laugh. After working 30 years in the Vallejo shipyards, he enjoys poking some good-natured fun at some of the less blue-collar winemakers who have joined the ranks over the years.
At an open house in January, part of the mission was to actively recruit the next wave of home winemakers. Paz Del Rascate and Jesse Castro, both in their 30s, were immediately hooked. The friends were already working locally in wine production but wanted to branch out from their day jobs. At their first meeting, a member offered them 100 Chardonnay vines to maintain, harvest and turn into wine. Soon after, someone else offered them 86 Merlot vines. And the offers kept coming. This harvest, they’ll be making wine from nearly 1,400 vines they’ve adopted.
“It’s been crazy,” says Del Rescate, who used to ferment cheap wine in a bag back in his dorm room at Texas A&M. “And in exchange, all they want is a little bit of finished wine.”
Overwhelmed with the amount of pruning, they reached out last winter to Kreeger for help. “She sent out a post, and all of a sudden eight members came out to help us prune,” says Castro. “They had only met us like once or twice. I was like, ‘Wow, is this for real?’ The fact that they came out to support us just speaks volumes.”
When harvest rolls around, “I know if we need more help, they’ll be there,” says Del Rescate. “You can’t do this alone — it takes a community.”
Sonoma Home Winemakers hosts monthly educational talks and group events at the Sonoma Community Center. There are also twice-monthly Saturday morning work parties at the Tex Juen Park and Vineyard in Sonoma. New members are always welcome. For more information, visit sonomahomewine.org.
Kunde Vineyards at peak fall color in Kenwood. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
To taste wine while soaking in the autumn colors in the vineyards is a far more interesting — and delicious — form of leaf peeping. October is the ideal time to witness Sonoma County’s colorful transition from summer to fall in the field, so start making plans now.
Read on below for a few favorite Sonoma wineries for taking in the fall colors.
Jordan Vineyard & Winery
In fall, the buttercup-colored Jordan chateau, covered in Boston ivy, is as iconic a place as any in Sonoma. The ivy morphs from vibrant green to red, then orange to pale yellow. Beyond those walls, the 1,200-acre Alexander Valley estate includes approximately 120 acres planted to Bordeaux red grape varieties.
1474 Alexander Valley Road, Healdsburg. 707-431-5250, jordanwinery.com
The front gate and vineyards at Sonoma’s Bartholomew Estate Winery in fall. (Courtesy of Bartholomew Estate Winery)
Bartholomew Estate Vineyards and Winery
Hiking through vineyards is a fine way to see fall colors. But a ride on horseback offers a higher-level, ever-changing perspective. In conjunction with Sonoma Valley Trail Rides, the winery hosts 45-minute rides through the 375-acre estate and its vineyards, with a bottle of wine to take home ($150). There’s also a 3-mile hiking trail past oaks, madrones and vines.
Long known for its Tuscan-style tasting room and marketplace, Viansa also affords an impressive 270-degree sweep that takes in the autumnal palette across the valley, as well as views of nearby wetlands that harbor migrating waterfowl. Wood-framed hillside outlooks — the winery describes them as grown-up tree houses — can be booked for groups of up to six and come with service of four wines, cheese and charcuterie ($75). The Summit Tasting ($40) has broad views from a hilltop terrace.
25200 Arnold Drive, Sonoma. 800-995-4740, viansa.com
Keller Estate
From this Petaluma Gap vineyard perched at 500 feet, the view to the south encompasses glowing grapevines, trees and fall foliage stretching across southern Sonoma and northern Marin. Tastings here include a walking tour of the stunning property.
Kendall-Jackson Wine Estate & Gardens in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy of Kendall-Jackson)View of Kunde Family Winery’s vineyards in Kenwood during the Mountain Top Tasting. (Courtesy Kunde Family Winery)
Kendall-Jackson Wine Estate & Gardens
Kendall-Jackson’s four-acre culinary gardens provide fresh produce for tasting experiences as well as a feast for the eyes during harvest season. The best way to enjoy both is at the estate’s upcoming Come Over October Harvest Hangout from 1-3 p.m. on Oct. 19. The free event includes live music, garden tours and wine tastings paired with fall bites, featuring expert culinary gardener Tucker Taylor along with special winemaker appearances. If you can’t make the harvest hangout, the estate also offers a Garden Tour & Tasting ($55) April through October.
5007 Fulton Road, Santa Rosa. 707-571-8100, kj.com
Kunde Family Winery
There are few Sonoma wineries that show off autumn colors as gloriously as this Kenwood winery and vineyard estate. The 1,850-acre ranch, established in 1879, is enveloped by terraced vineyards and oak woodlands. The effect is one of a blanket of marigold, pumpkin and rust — especially when seen from 1,400 feet up during the Mountain Top Tasting ($100). Kunde’s vineyard views lend to it being among our favorite winery patios in the county.
The estate at Bricoleur Vineyards is beautiful any time of year, and autumn is no exception. With Bricoleur’s Essentials Picnic ($75), guests can enjoy an alfresco picnic either on the pavilion lawn, under a trellis by the pond, or at the picnic tables in the culinary and rose gardens. The picnic package includes a chic red wagon to cart around while exploring the estate grounds as well as a chilled glass of wine and a wicker basket filled with gourmet picnic items.
The hillside tasting room at Trattore Farms (named for the Italian word for tractor) affords sweeping views of Dry Creek Valley to the west and Geyser Peak and Mount St. Helena to the east, all awash in fall color. Various experiences are offered, including wine and olive oil tastings and the Get Your Boots Dirty Tour ($95) — a drive through the vineyards and olive orchard in a Kawasaki utility vehicle, with a stop at the olive mill center and a tasting of wines and olive oils.
Pies at Hazel restaurant in Occidental. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Eat dessert first, because those peas and carrots aren’t going anywhere. No matter what mom said, we’re all about enjoying the sweeter things in life and worrying about the rest tomorrow.
When the call went out for some of your favorite desserts, we couldn’t help but add a few of our own guilty pleasures from around Sonoma County. Read with caution, because this list is jam-packed with chocolate, sugar, whipped cream and cookies.
National Dessert Day is Oct. 14, so now would be as good a time as any to get acquainted with the best desserts in the county.
Story by Sofia Englund, Jennifer Graue, Heather Irwin and Maci Martell. Readers contributed their dessert picks on the Sonoma Magazine Facebook.
Heather’s Picks
Banana pudding with Nilla wafers soaked in dark rum and coffee at Rocker Oysterfeller’s at Lucas Wharf in Bodega Bay on Friday, Aug. 23, 2024. (Erik Castro / for The Press Democrat)
Banana Pudding, Rocker Oysterfeller’s at Lucas Wharf, Bodega Bay
Even if you’re not a huge banana fan, this very adult version of the Southern classic marries layers of creamy banana pudding and fresh bananas with ‘Nilla wafers soaked in dark rum and coffee.
Every month is a new cupcake adventure, and owner Anna Rodriguez loves to dig deep for inspirations, ranging from Dolly Parton and Prince to a spooky seasonal ode to Beetlejuice.
Feel free to dive into a hefty slice of this espresso-soaked dessert made with mascarpone rather than whipped cream. The sweetness is toned down, making it a calorie-worthy dessert without the sugar shock.
Apple Strudel from Tisza Bistro chef/owner Krisztian Karkus Monday, Feb. 12, 2024, in Healdsburg. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Strudel, Tisza Bistro, Healdsburg
This seemingly simple dessert is made in-house by stretching the dough into thin, buttery layers filled with seasonal fruit, including apples, cherries and poppy seeds.
Every Friday is pie day at this Occidental restaurant. Co-owner Michele Wimborough’s pies are legendary, ranging from peanut butter and blackberry to Dutch apple and lemon meringue. You never know what she’ll be making, which is half the fun of your pie adventure.
Handcrafted on-site, this family-run ice creamery has flavors that change with the season, but their spiced chai tea scoops have cinnamon, cardamom and ginger for a special zing.
A variety of ice cream, or glacée, from Goguette Bread in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy Goguette Bread)
Glacée and Petit Beurre Cookies, Goguette Bread, Santa Rosa
This popular boulangerie extended its opening hours to 9 p.m. this summer, a brilliant move as warm Sonoma County nights made for a perfect excuse to indulge in their housemate glacée — a decadent French custard-style ice cream — to the tune of chansons on their Parisian patio. Picking a couple of flavors (new ones are made each week) is near impossible when you have choices like pistachio, rose, violet and choco-orange. Whatever flavor you pick, pair your treat with Le Petit Beurre, Goguette’s take on the shortbread from Nantes, in the Brittany region of France. Order in advance to bring your desserts home during fall and winter — ice cream and cookies are not just for summer.
If you’re craving dessert, this miniature version of lemon meringue may seem a bit petite at first glance. But what it lacks in size it makes up for in flavor. It’s also very pretty — a bright yellow swirl served in a tiny glass jar. Enjoy it in one of the Adirondack chairs outdoors or seated by the large windows, watching the world go by on Sonoma Avenue. Or bring it home, like we often do. The evidence: tall stacks of tiny glass jars in our kitchen cupboard.
Meyer lemon curd topped with meringue from The Pharmacy in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
Gluten-free Carrot Cake, Zoftig Eatery, Santa Rosa
Carrot cake, done right, can be absolutely sublime. Zoftig Eatery has perfected the art of the carrot cake with a gluten-free version that has the Goldilocks ratio of just the right amount of carrot, spice, sweetness and moistness. It is rich, but not overpowering, and the cream cheese frosting is really the icing on the cake, not detracting from the flavors by being overly sweet or artificial-tasting. The secret, according to co-owner Sonjia Spector, is high-quality spices and lasting friendships: the restaurant buys the gluten-free flour for the cake from Spector’s childhood friend Dawn Zaft of Criminal Baking Co. We have attempted to split this generous slice of carrot cake in two and save the second half for the following day, but never succeeded.
Vegan Elderflower/Berry Mini Cake, Criminal Baking Company, Santa Rosa
This hidden gem bakery, located off the beaten path in a red brick industrial building on Donahue Street, continues to serve up the best sweet treats in Sonoma County. The menu changes frequently, but you won’t be disappointed whatever you order. A recent favorite includes a vegan elderflower/berry mini cake — the kind of heavenly dessert that treats your taste buds to a kind of transcendental experience. The outdoor seating, under bright yellow umbrellas, is lovely but we like the bustling indoor space that feels like a theater set beneath tall ceilings.
A naturally gluten-free cake, Gateau Parisien is a rustic almond macaron layered with a praline buttercream. From Patisserie Angelica in Sebastopol. (Courtesy Patisserie Angelica)
Gateau Parisien, Patisserie Angelica, Sebastopol
If the words “gluten-free dessert” normally leave you cold, this ethereal treat (which just won the best of show award in the 2024 Sonoma County Harvest Fair) will change your mind. Three layers of almond macaron are layered with Italian praline buttercream. It’s not overly sweet and is simply delicious. The best part? In addition to full sized cakes, they also come in individual servings so you don’t have to share.
Fruit Basket Cake, Oliver’s Market, multiple locations
This cake perennially pops up at birthdays, retirement parties and Mother’s Day gatherings, and every single time it appears, we make a beeline for the dessert table. An eye-catching rainbow of fruit for a topping draws you in, but the layers of moist vanilla cake, pastry cream and a hint of raspberry jam keep you coming back for just one more bite. Cakes come in 6, 8 and 10 inches, plus two sheet cake sizes for when you’re serving a crowd.
Co-owner Christian Sullberg cuts a slice of Peanut Butter Pie at Noble Folk Ice Cream and Pie Bar in Santa Rosa. (Beth Schlanker/The Press Democrat)
Peanut Butter Mousse Pie, Noble Folk, Santa Rosa & Healdsburg
This pie is 9 inches of decadence, and it is worthy every single, silky bite. Noble Folk’s co-owner, Christian Sullberg, fills an Oreo cookie crust with whipped peanut butter mousse and tops it all with a cloud of whipped cream. It’s a seasonal pie, usually only on the menu a couple of times a year, but it’s your lucky day because it’s available right now just in time for National Dessert Day. My 2022 Thanksgiving story included a recipe for it; super bonus!
Brownie Cupcake and Baby Fruit Galettes, Downtown Bakery & Creamery, Healdsburg
Step into Healdsburg’s Downtown Bakery, and suddenly words like “carbs” and “calories” have no meaning. The incredibly rich and chocolaty brownie cupcake is a treat I will never pass up. And whatever fruit galette is available, get it. All of them are winners.
Croissants, sticky buns, blueberry scones and a baby apple quince galette from the Downtown Bakery and Creamery in Healdsburg. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Cinnamon Babka, Grossman’s Noshery & Bar, Santa Rosa
Skip the slice and go right for the half loaf of Grossman’s sticky, sweet cinnamon babka to take home and share with loved ones. Or hide it away to indulge in to yourself — we’ve all been there. The chocolate crinkle cookies and rugelach also never disappoint.
Apple Pecan Crumble Pie, Petaluma Pie Company, Petaluma
This brown sugar-sweetened apple pie is topped with a nutty crumble and a generous drizzle of housemade salted caramel for a luscious fall dessert. Bring it to the Thanksgiving table this year to switch up your traditional pie offerings and make a lasting impression. And while nothing beats grandma’s homemade, from-the-garden strawberry rhubarb pie, this humble pie shop’s sweet-tart strawberry rhubarb comes as close as it gets.
Carrot Chocolate Chip Cookies and Cardamom Braids, Cacau Bakery, Santa Rosa
“Cacau bakery (Swedish and Brazillian, found in the farmers markets in Santa Rosa and elsewhere) — carrot chocolate chip cookies and cardamom braids. Go here if you’re tired of sugar being used as the flavor rather than the flavor enhancer,” wrote Per-Anders Edwards on Facebook. “They know what Scandinavian food tastes like … they even use the right type of cardamom.”
Scandia Bakery proprietor Marcela Barrenechea with her well-known princess cake at the shop on Fifth Street West on Tuesday, May 16, 2023. (Robbi Pengelly/Index-Tribune)
Princess Cake, Scandia Bakery, Sonoma
A vanilla cake filled with raspberry jam and vanilla custard, covered in whipped cream and rolled in marzipan icing.
“The Swedish Princess Cake from (the) Scandinavian bakery in Sonoma! Outstanding!” wrote in Maria LeVicki on Facebook.
“That was the birthday cake my mom wanted every year!” replied Donna Litvin.
“The berry turnovers at Mom’s Apple Pie,” replied Elizabeth Jack to our query on best local desserts on Facebook. “Crispy, buttery layers around mixed berries. Yum!”
Chocolate Mousse, CIBO Rustico Pizzeria, Santa Rosa
The Coppa Tre Cioccolati Mousse at CIBO has silky white chocolate, dark chocolate, and hazelnut and wafers.
“CIBO Rustico Pizzeria — 3 layer chocolate mousse,” wrote Emily Haws on Facebook. “What dreams are made of.”
1305 Cleveland Ave., Suite C, Santa Rosa, 707-623-9906, ciborustico.com
Screaming Mimi’s won best Ice Cream or Yogurt by Press Democrat readers for Best of Sonoma County 2024. July 10, 2024. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Ice Cream, Screamin’ Mimi’s, Sebastopol
“Screaming Mimi’s Mimi’s Mud Chocolate Espresso Ice Cream in Sebastopol!” wrote Marty Waldron.
Mimi’s Mud is an espresso ice cream with chocolate chips, Oreo-like cookies and housemade fudge. Screamin’ Mimi’s Pumpkin Mud is also back this fall season.
“Lavender ice cream from Screamin’ Mimi’s Ice Cream,” wrote Michi Cardenas Campos.
“Wit & Wisdom: Deconstructed S’more,” Emily Haws wrote on Facebook. “Chef Danny and team always push the level with desserts. I have enjoyed so many incredible ones — and they serve Fiorello’s Artisan Gelato, which is a plus in my eyes!”
The restaurant’s current dessert menu includes Woodfired S’mores Souffle for two, served with cherry coulis, Fiorello vanilla gelato and a graham streusel.
“You might miss these little guys next to the till, or pass over them thinking they’re just for decoration,” wrote Per-Anders Edwards. “But if you’re a fan of gooey meringue (the best kind on a pavlova, Eton Mess or lemon meringue tart) and miss it, here you can get a single mouthful that’s just as much as you’d want before the sugar coma kicks in. Two flavors. They have some great savory options.”
Les Pascals in Glen Ellen is an authentic French bakery and cafe popular with the bicycle set. Fresh pastries and housemade breads, along with cookies, croissants, brioche and sandwiches. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Mama Janne’s Cream Cheese Pie, Stark’s Steak & Seafood, Santa Rosa
“Mama Janne’s Cheese Pie at Stark’s Steakhouse — the best,” John Noble wrote on Facebook.
The pie is filled with brown butter peaches and topped with a graham cracker crumble.
“Warike Restobar – Churros,” wrote Per-Anders Edwards on Facebook. “Fun, shareable, finally a decent amount of cinnamon! The rest of the menu’s great, too.”
Warike’s churros are filled with manjar blanco (similar to dulce de leche) and served with vanilla ice cream.
527 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-536-9201, warikesf.com
Pumpkin Spice Bundtlet, Nothing Bundt Cakes, Santa Rosa
“Nothing Bundt Cakes (Santa Rosa Coddingtown mall) — Pumpkin Spice bundtlet,” wrote Per-Anders Edwards on Facebook. “You can ask for it minus the icing in ‘naked’ form. Once you eliminate the octopus of icing, this is pretty similar in flavor profile and texture to some Swedish spice cakes.”
Almond Matcha Pound Cake, baked into a swirl pattern served with fresh strawberries from Preston Farm from Cloverdale Flour Girl Shannon Moore. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Cakes and Apple Cider Doughnuts, Flour Girl, Cloverdale
“Flour Girl — her cakes and apple cider donuts are to die for!” wrote Savannah DelCampo-Snyde.
“Sarmentine — A French patisserie worth visiting in three locations now (Santa Rosa, Sebastopol and Petaluma). Go for the tartlets, the fruit one is a favorite, also a good loaf and super deep dish quiche.” – Per-Anders Edwards
Condé Nast Traveler, an online and print guide to luxury travel around the world, received over 578,000 votes from readers in its recent survey. The annual awards ranks prime travel destinations ranging from best resorts and hotels to countries, restaurants, airlines and more. Winners are independently selected by Condé Nast readers.
The pool at Bardessono Hotel and Spa in Yountville. (Courtesy Bardessono Hotel)
Bardessono Hotel and Spa, Yountville
Bardessono Hotel and Spa in Yountville, Napa County, made No. 14 on the list. The 62-room “eco-luxe hotel” offers an on-site spa and garden-to-table inspired restaurant, Lucy Restaurant and Bar, for guests. The suites include both indoor and outdoor showers, “massive living rooms,” outdoor patios and flat-screen TVs, according to the article.
Condé Naste calls the hotel “the ultimate place to slip completely under the radar while being surrounded by world-renowned art and nature.” A night’s stay ranges from $737 to $1,545, depending on the date.
Silverado Resort and Spa in Napa. (Courtesy of Silverado Resort)
Silverado Resort and Spa, Napa
The Silverado Resort and Spa in Napa came in at No. 43 on the list. Known for being “one of the most renowned destinations in Napa Valley” and having an abundance of “state-of-the-art sports facilities,” according to the article, the 1,200-acre resort offers eight on-site dining options with fresh, seasonal produce grown from the resort’s garden as well as hiking and biking trails, private cabanas at the pool and live music on the lawns during summer.
The Silverado costs about $220 to $450 a night, depending on the date.
The lobby at Montage Healdsburg. (Montage Healdsburg)English Pea Soup poured at the table over lavender, coconut yogurt and vintner’s coppa from Hazel Hill at Montage Healdsburg. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Montage Healdsburg
One hotel in Sonoma County made the list. Montage Healdsburg ranked No. 36.
The hotel is set on 258 acres, surrounded by oak trees and vineyards. This is the first property Montage International, an Orange County-based hotel and resort brand, has built in Northern California, according to the article. It has 130 rooms raised, to disturb the land as little as possible and “celebrate its own landscape, leaving the 22,000 live oaks in place,” stated Condé Naste Traveler. The resort’s restaurant, Hazel Hill, offers guests a variety of Sonoma County wines, beers and food.
A night’s stay at Montage Healdsburg ranges from $670 to $5,700.
The only other places in California to make the list were L’Horizon Resort & Spa in Palm Springs (No. 1) and the Waldorf Astoria Monarch Beach Resort & Club in Dana Point, Orange County (No. 25).
Many of the redesigned guest rooms at The Sea Ranch Lodge offer cozy window seats that encourage guests to linger and take in sweeping coastal views. (Adam Potts)
According to Condé Nast Traveler, more than 575,000 readers across the United States weighed in on this year’s survey. Ratings were submitted online during the sweepstakes period of April 1 through June 30, 2024. You can read more about how the results were tabulated here.
The Lodge at Bodega Bay. (Caitlin Atkinson/The Lodge at Bodega Bay)
No. 1: The Lodge at Bodega Bay
Snagging the highest ranking on the top 20 hotels in Northern California list, the coastal retreat places above the likes of Big Sur’s Post Ranch Inn and Sausalito’s Cavallo Point.
Farmhouse Inn, 7871 River Road, Forestville, 707-887-3300, farmhouseinn.com
No. 7: Vintage House at The Estate Yountville
Set within walking distance of just about everything in Yountville, Vintage House is one of two hotel properties on Washington Street at The Estate Yountville.
Its sister property, Hotel Villagio, took No. 12 on Conde Nast Traveler’s 2024 Readers’ Choice Awards list of top 20 hotels in Northern California.
Auberge du Soleil in Rutherford. (Courtesy Auberge du Soleil)
No. 8: Auberge du Soleil, Auberge Resorts Collection
Inspired by the south of France, the restaurant at this Rutherford property has been awarded a Michelin Star for 17 consecutive years. Auberge du Soleil, Auberge Resorts Collection, also holds the Michelin guide’s most prestigious “Three Key” distinction along with just 16 other hotels in the country.
Smack dab in the heart of downtown Napa and an easy walk to the city’s ever-growing list of wine tasting rooms, restaurants and shops, the Archer also boasts a cool rooftop pool.
Many guest rooms at The Sea Ranch Lodge offer cozy window seats that encourage guests to take in coastal views. (Adam Potts)
No. 17: The Sea Ranch Lodge
No two of the 17 recently redesigned guest rooms are the same. However, the notion of “living lightly on the land” is consistent throughout each accommodation at The Sea Ranch Lodge.
With sought-after access to the Russian River, accommodations at Dawn Ranch come in a variety of configurations. Lodging options range from luxe glamping tents and one-room cabins to two-bedroom bungalows with a full kitchen.
Hall Wines is one of the best Napa wineries for first-time visitors. (Hall Wines)
Napa Valley is widely considered one of the premier wine destinations in the world. Millions of people come here each year to sip wine, eat good food and stay in luxury resorts. But with over 400 wineries to choose from, it can be overwhelming to plan a first visit.
To help visitors create a perfect trip itinerary, we have put together this list of Napa wineries that offer a great introduction to the superlatives of the region. And, because the ambiance and setting is just as important as the wine, we have created a photo gallery above that offers a peek at each winery.
Domaine Carneros
Every visit to Napa Valley should begin with bubbles. Founded by the famed Taittinger family, Domaine Carneros produces French-style sparklers from sustainably grown estate vineyards. Take in the vineyard views from a table on the patio — you’ll feel like you’ve been transported to a French countryside chateau.
Tasting to try: Domaine Carneros’s “A Journey to Southeast Asia” pairs sparkling wines with a menu inspired by the cuisines of Vietnam, Thailand and India. It includes savory and sweet bites and four sparkling wines: Ultra Brut, Estate Brut Cuvée, Brut Rosé and Verméil Demi-Sec. $99 for a 90-minute experience.
Founded in 1862, Schramsberg is one of the oldest sparkling wine producers in California. The historic property was purchased by Jack and Jamie Davies in 1965 and is now listed as a California Historical Landmark, complete with a Victorian mansion. Shortly after buying the winery, the Davies made their first vintage of Blanc de Blancs — the first commercial use of chardonnay in a sparkling wine made in the United States.
Tasting to try: The cave tour experience at Schramsberg is educational, starting with a tour of the historic property and caves followed by an all-sparkling wine tasting, or three Schramsberg sparkling wines and three red wines from sister winery, Davies Vineyards. Cave tastings start at $85. By appointment only.
Both locals and visitors to Wine Country tout the views and wine at Artesa, where the hillside tasting room and winery overlooks 350 acres of vineyards. Opened in 1991 by Spanish winemaking family Codorníu Raventós, the winery offers estate-grown Chardonnay and Pinot Noir crafted by winemaker Paula Borgo. (“Artesa” means “handcrafted” or “artisan” in Catalan.)
Tasting to try: After snapping selfies by the winery’s impressive entrance, enjoy the classic “Taste of Artesa” pairing of Ibérico ham and wine by the modern Mediterranean tasting bar, or on the patio, which offers 360-degree views — on a clear day you can see San Francisco. $105 per person. Reservations recommended.
Midcentury-modern design and excellent wines make this one of the hottest destinations in Wine Country. The winery has been featured in a variety of lifestyle publications, including Architectural Digest, Vogue and Goop, but tastings here remain relaxed and casual, and come with great music playlists curated by winery owner Kashy Khaledi.
Tasting to try: It’s hard to go wrong with pizza and wine. The “A&D Wines + Shroomy Schmaltzy” tasting features pizza with locally foraged wild mushrooms, aged mozzarella and crème fraîche paired with three wines. Yum! $45 per person. Reservations required.
Outdoor area at Ashes & Diamonds winery in Napa. (Ashes & Diamonds)The tasting room at Ashes & Diamonds winery in Napa. (Ashes & Diamonds)
Beaulieu Vineyard
“Beau lieu” means “beautiful place” in French, which was an apt name for this Rutherford property thought the de Latour family when they bought it in the early 20th century. One of the oldest wineries in California, Beaulieu Vineyard (or simply “BV”) is a must-visit for wine lovers seeking a touch of heritage with their estate Cabernet.
Tasting to try: The reservation-only “Legacy Experience” starts with a tour of the winery followed by a tasting of a selection of reserve wines in the winery’s Legacy Room. $130 per person. Reservations recommended.
1960 St. Helena Hwy., Rutherford. 800-373-5896. bvwines.com
Beringer
The first winery to have both a red and a white wine named “Wine of the Year” by Wine Spectator, Beringer has been crafting wines for nearly 150 years, making it the oldest continually operating winery in California. If that isn’t enough to convince you to visit, the gardens and the stately Victorian-era tasting rooms, housed in the Beringer family’s former home — the Rhine House — should seal the deal.
Tasting to try: The “Legacy Cave Tour” winds through the old winery and into the cave to explore the hand-carved tunnels. The tour includes a tasting of three wines. $35 per person. Reservations recommended
2000 Main St., St. Helena. 707-257-5771. beringer.com
Castello di Amorosa
It’s no surprise that some refer to Dario Sattui, a fourth generation vintner and the man behind Castello di Amorosa, as a modern-day Don Quixote. Sattui spent 15 years building this medieval-style Tuscan castle in Napa Valley as a place to showcase his wines. The result: a 107-room, eight-level, 136,000-square-foot building complete with drawbridge, secret passageways, torture chamber — and tasting rooms.
Tasting to try: The “Diamond Estate Tour” includes a guided tour of the castle and its production area, followed by a tasting of five current-release reserve and small-production wines. $75 per person. Reservations required. Adults only.
Charles Krug, an immigrant from the German state of Prussia and one of the pioneers of Napa Valley winemaking, founded this winery in St. Helena in 1861. Robert Mondavi, another winemaking legend, got his start here after he convinced his parents, Cesare and Rosa Mondavi, to purchase the historic winery in 1943. The winery has remained a Mondavi property for over 75 years and four generations.
Tasting to try: Charles Krug’s “Tour and Tasting” experience offers a taste of winemaking history and five signature, current release wines paired with a gourmet cheese and charcuterie board. $90 per person. Reservations required. Adults only.
We can thank this Calistoga winery, founded in 1882, for putting California wine on the international wine map. Yes, there once was a time when American wine was the laughingstock of France and its wine producing neighbors. But that all changed when Chateau Montelena’s 1973 Chardonnay won the famous Paris Tasting. Today, the winery continues to produce delicious and accessible wines, including their legendary Chardonnay and collectible Cabernet Sauvignon.
Tasting to try: The “Montelena Estate Collection” showcases the winery’s Estate Cabernet Sauvignon by offering a comparative tasting of four vintages. Don’t worry, you will get to taste the Chardonnay, too. Don’t leave the property without exploring its beautiful Chinese garden, lake and vineyards. $125 per person. Reservations required. Adults only.
Wine lovers flock to Napa Valley for Cabernet Sauvignon, but on a first visit it is also worth seeking out Merlot. The best place to taste the resurgence of the ruby red is at Duckhorn Vineyards in St. Helena. Duckhorn Merlots have been named “wine of the year,” “Merlot of the year” and “just plain darn delicious” by a variety of publications, including Sonoma Magazine, so you don’t want to miss a taste while in Napa Valley.
Tasting to try: The unpretentious tasting room at Duckhorn is surrounded by beautiful gardens. Make a reservation on the veranda for the “Portfolio Tasting Experience” and enjoy five current-release wines: Paraduxx, Goldeneye, Migration, Decoy, Canvasback and Calera. Splurge on a cheese plate; it is a good excuse to linger. $65 per person. Reservations required. Adults only.
1000 Lodi Lane, St. Helena. 707-963-7108. duckhorn.com
Far Niente
Another Napa Valley landmark, Far Niente was founded in 1885 by John Benson, who made his money in the California gold rush. (Another fun fact: Benson’s uncle was famous American impressionist painter Winslow Homer.) The historic winery, surrounded by 13 acres of landscaped gardens, is located next to a hillside with 40,000 square feet of caves that age the winery’s award-winning Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.
Tasting to try: The 90-minute “Tour and Tasting” experience boasts a sweet ending — a tasting of the winery’s lauded late-harvest wine, Dulce. Don’t miss a chance to see the oldest bottle of wine in California, an 1886 Far Niente Sweet Muscat, which the winery proudly displays. $130 per person. By appointment only.
The Bunny Foo-Foo sculpture at Hall Wines in St. Helena. (Hall Wines)
Hall Napa Valley
One of the best things about Napa Valley is the diversity of wine tasting experiences available here. One minute, you’re sipping sparkling wine in a 100-year-old wine cave; the next, you’re tasting bold red blends surrounded by contemporary art. At Hall, pair eco-friendly wines with fine art — the winery is the brainchild of Kathryn Walt Hall (philanthropist and former ambassador to Austria) and her husband, Craig.
Tasting to try: The “HALLmark Tour and Tasting” includes a tour of the innovative production facilities in St. Helena, which will impress any techie, as well as the organic gardens. Then, enjoy a seated tasting where you will nibble on cheese alongside a flight of four wines. And don’t forget to snap a selfie with the Bunny Foo-Foo sculpture outdoors. $75 per person. Reservations recommended.
401 St. Helena Highway, St. Helena. 707-967-2626. hallwines.com
Inglenook
Founded in 1879, Inglenook was the go-to wine for the American elite — including presidents — by the turn of the 20th century. Today, Inglenook wines are among the most collected in the country. The winery was purchased by filmmakers Francis Ford and Eleanor Coppola in 1975 with profits from The Godfather films. Dress up and charge your phone for pictures — the property looks like a movie set.
Tasting to try: During the “Private Library Tour and Tasting” explore the chateau and grounds, wine in hand. Then visit the caves, the vineyards and one of the oldest winemaking facilities in the country, with huge redwood barrels. End the experience with a seated tasting of library wines paired with artisan cheese. $150 per person. By appointment only.
1991 St Helena Highway, Rutherford. 707-968-1161. inglenook.com
Robert Mondavi Winery
One of Napa’s most well-known wineries has temporary downtown digs. Robert Mondavi Winery’s Arch & Tower has moved into the city’s historic Borreo building. (The space was formerly occupied by Stone Brewing Co.). Mondavi’s wine tasting experiences will take place at the downtown Napa location while the namesake winery property in Oakville undergoes a multi-year renovation.
Tasting to try: Robert Mondavi founded his namesake winery in 1966, planting Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc. The “Napa Exploration” tasting introduces you to four Estates-tier wines. Snag a seat on the River Terrace and take in views of the Napa River while you sip and swirl. $65 per person. Reservations required.
This Napa Valley winery was founded in 1972 by onetime Colorado oil prospector Raymond Twomey Duncan and winemaker Justin Meyer. Their goal: to make Cabernet Sauvignon aged exclusively in American white oak. Today, Silver Oak Cellars is operated by Twomey Duncan’s sons, David and Tim Duncan, who are committed to sustainable winemaking practices and operations and continue to focus on Cabernet from Napa Valley and Sonoma County’s Alexander Valley.
Tasting to try: The “Silver Tasting and Tour” allows visitors to observe the winemaking process from a glass-enclosed cellar while sipping cab in a modern tasting room built from hand-quarried limestone. Pinot lovers will enjoy the opportunity to taste bottles from Silver Oak’s sister property, Twomey. Tastings start at $65.
Silver Oak Cellars in Oakville. (Silver Oak Cellars)Spootswoode Winery in St. Helena. (Spootswoode Winery)
Spottswoode Winery
This family-owned and operated winery is setting the standard for sustainability in Napa Valley. In 1985, Spottswoode was the first in Napa Valley to farm organically. In 2020, the estate earned biodynamic certification and became the first Napa Valley winery to earn B Corp Certification. Most recently, Spottswoode added Regenerative Organic Certification to its long list of eco-friendly accomplishments.
Tasting to try: Private “Estate Tastings” are hosted by appointment Monday through Friday. After touring the estate and learning about the winery’s farming practices, you’ll enjoy a seated tasting of current-release Spottswoode wines. $150 per person.
1902 Madrona Ave., St. Helena. 707-963-0134, spottswoode.com
Tres Sabores
This family-owned, woman-led winery produces organically farmed wines in a postcard setting. Along with vineyards, owner and winemaker Julie Johnson tends to pomegranates, Meyer lemons, olives and more. A plus: leashed dogs are welcome with advance notice.
Tasting to try: Grab a seat on the sunny patio or at a shady picnic table and sip on five current releases while watching hummingbirds in the heirloom garden, sheep “mowing” in the vineyards, and red-tailed hawks soaring above. $60 per person. A locally-sourced cheese and charcuterie platter large enough for four can be reserved for an additional $28. Reservations required.
1620 South Whitehall Lane, St. Helena. 707-967-8027, tressabores.com
