8 Sonoma County Cider Makers You Should Know

Jolie Devoto is the founder and owner of Golden State Cider. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)

Over the past decade, cider makers have led the charge in rejuvenating local orchards and bringing back the apple — albeit in a liquid form. Thanks to the growing popularity of hard cider, it’s clear that they’re succeeding, and nowhere is that more evident than in Sonoma County. To celebrate the noble fruit and the wealth of spectacular cider makers in the region, here’s our list of local cideries worth noticing.

ACE Premium Craft Cider

ACE is a family-owned Sonoma County company that released its first cider in 1993. Through the years, ACE has continued to evolve and grow into a nationally known brand while hanging onto its Sonoma County roots.

Owner and founder Jeffrey House and his sons like to keep things fresh, adding new, unique flavors and seasonal offerings such as their recently released Hazy Hop cider, an unfiltered and dry-hopped cider, and their just-released seasonal pumpkin cider.

Despite its distribution across the country, ACE still operates a cider pub where locals can buy its fermented drinks directly. It’s open from 1 to 5 p.m. on Fridays, when you can stop by to grab a quick pint, fill up a growler, and enjoy some live music. If the cider is flowing and the pub is full, they may keep the doors open a little longer.

Tasting flights of all nine varieties of cider are $10. The pub is behind the company’s production facility.

2064 Gravenstein Highway N., Sebastopol, 707-829-1101, acecider.com

1/11/2015:E1:The new Ace Blackjack 21 hard cider. PC:The new ACE Blackjack Twenty One hard cider. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Blackjack Twenty One hard cider. (John Burgess)
Ethic Ciders

Ned and Michelle Lawton bought their Sebastopol heirloom apple farm in 2016 and launched Ethic Ciders shortly thereafter.

Now in their second year of production, the couple makes some 2,000 cases of heirloom cider using 100 percent organically and ethically farmed fruit sourced from their own cider apple orchard and neighboring apple farmers. The Lawtons are strong proponents of regenerative farming and like to explore strategies that both heal the land and increase the quality of the apples grown at their orchard on Occidental Road.

“We hand-press many of our bittersweet apples from the home orchard, and they go into our ciders as blend components,” Lawton says. “We grow Nehou, Wickson’s, and Porters Perfection, to name a few that come from our home orchard.”

For the rest of the apples, the Lawtons use the commercial apple press at Rattzlaff Ranch in Sebastopol, then ferment and bottle the juice in Petaluma.

Ethic ciders are available in bottles at Oliver’s Markets, Whole Foods, Community Market, and Fircrest as well as on tap at Whole Foods Coddingtown, Community Market, and Bottle Barn.
The ciders — Montage (a blend of heirloom and bittersweet apples layered with wild harvest pears and crab apples), Gravitude (Gravenstein), Golden Rule (Golden Delicious), Scarlett (a pink cider made with boysenberries and raspberries), newly released Zest (a dry cider with blood orange, tangerine, and rosehips) and Warren Perry (a single varietal pear cider) —
can also be purchased on the company website.

967 Transport Way, Petaluma, 415-717-4416, ethicciders.com.

Ethic Ciders owners Ned and Michelle Lawton, their son Kielson, 12, daughter Remi, 9, and puppy, Luna, stand next to an apple press at their apple farm on Wednesday, December 26, 2018 in Sebastopol, California . (BETH SCHLANKER/The Press Democrat)
Ethic Ciders owners Ned and Michelle Lawton, their son Kielson, 12, daughter Remi, 9, and puppy, Luna, stand next to an apple press at their apple farm in Sebastopol, California. (Beth Schlanker)
Goat Rock Cider

Good friends Paul Hawley (of the Hawley Winery family) and Trevor Zebulon (of Terrific Tours) decided to put their love for dry, crisp Sonoma County hard ciders to good use and start their own company a couple of years ago. The idea was hatched while they were hiking near one of their favorite Sonoma coast spots, Goat Rock State Beach, so the name seemed fitting.

With Hawley’s background in winemaking and Zebulon’s penchant for home wine, sake, and cider brewing they soon came up with what they thought to be the perfect dry cider recipe. They officially launched their first commercially available ciders at Cider Summit SF in April of this year. Their mission is to make clean, dry cider from organic apples and offer them at a reasonable price. This means not having employees and distributing their own ciders to save the margins they’d otherwise lose with wholesale sales.

Before their launch, Goat Rock had produced around 500 cases over 2017 and 2018. They say demand is driving an increase in production, estimated to hit about 2,500 cases by the end of 2019. The ciders are sourced from 100% organic Sonoma County apples, predominantly from Sebastopol. They are available locally at Bottle Barn and Wilibees Wine & Spirits in Santa Rosa, Oliver’s Markets (Windsor, Cotati, and the Stony Point Road store in east Santa Rosa), Shelton’s and Big John’s in Healdsburg, Andy’s Market in Sebastopol, and Pacific Markets in Sebastopol and Santa Rosa.

They are also available on tap at these local bars and taprooms: Lagunitas Taproom and Vine & Barrel in Petaluma; Rincon Valley Taproom, Local Barrel, and Walter Hansel Bistro in Santa Rosa; Barley & Bine Beer Cafe in Windsor; and Elephant in the Room and Goat Rock’s own tasting room (by appointment only) in Healdsburg.

The ciders — Gravenstein Blend (organic Sebastopol Gravenstein apples), Dry Hopped (organic Sebastopol apples fermented with plenty of hops), and Rosé (a bone-dry apple cider co-fermented with Hawaiian passion fruit) — can also be purchased (and picked up) directly. Orders are accepted by phone and email.

107 W. North St., Healdsburg, 707-409-0738, goatrockcider.com.

Jolie Devoto-Wade of Orchard's Estate Cider and Golden State Cider at Devoto Gardens and Orchards in Sebastopol, on Tuesday, July 21, 2015 .(BETH SCHLANKER/ The Press Democrat)
Jolie Devoto-Wade of Golden State Cider at Devoto Gardens and Orchards in Sebastopol. (Beth Schlanker)
Golden State Cider

The Devoto family has been farming apples since the late 1970s, when Stan and Susan Devoto planted themselves, along with 50 varieties of heirloom apple trees, in western Sonoma County.

Daughter Jolie Devoto-Wade, along with her husband, Hunter Wade, launched their own cider project in 2012 using the rare heirloom apple varieties that the Devotos had grown for decades. That cider project eventually developed into Golden State Cider, and last year, all Devoto ciders became part of the Golden State Cider brand.

In order to meet production demands and maintain a reasonable price, Golden State ciders now include apples sourced from regions outside of Sonoma County, primarily from the Pacific Northwest.

For those who prefer to drink local fruit, there’s a special Harvest Series that features ciders made only from organic Sonoma County apples. That series includes Save the Gravenstein, a heritage-style cider made exclusively from Gravenstein apples grown in the Sebastopol hills.

“It’s the largest program we’ve ever done with Gravensteins, which we’re very excited about,” says co-founder Devoto-Wade. “This year we pressed 100-plus tons of local Sonoma County apples.”

The Harvest Series also includes Fool’s Gold, an aromatic cider made from organic apple varieties grown on Gold Ridge Road in Sebastopol; and The Elder Tree, which features Newtown Pippin and Arkansas Black varieties. Elder Tree is available now; Fool’s Gold is currently sold out.

Golden State Ciders are now sold exclusively in cans and kegs and can be purchased online. Elder Tree can be found locally on draft and in bottles at Handline and Community Market in Sebastopol. BevMo’s across the state and Oliver’s Markets also carry the ciders.

This year, the Golden State team has some exciting plans in the works, including a new taproom at The Barlow in Sebastopol, which opened its doors this summer. The taproom serves hard ciders as well as nonalcoholic versions and offers a light menu with ingredients sourced from the Devoto farm and their west county neighbors.

180 Morris St., Suite 150, Sebastopol, 707-321-1237, drinkgoldenstate.com.

Leaky Barrel Cider

Founded by brothers Bradley, Blake, and Scott Yarger in 2016 as a side project, it remains a small and slow-growing operation. Leaky Barrel produces some 200 cases a year, pressing the apples at Ratzlaff Ranch in Sebastopol and fermenting and bottling at Old World Winery in Fulton.

Thanks to Bradley’s experience in the distribution industry and Blake’s winemaker expertise, the ciders have been selling out quickly.

The brothers ferment Sonoma County apples using native yeasts then age the ciders in neutral French oak without any added sulfites. Since the ciders are made from whatever fruit is available every harvest season, they vary in taste each year.

Their farmhouse cider, The S.A.S.H. (single apple single hop), is made from local organic Gravensteins and is dry-hopped with organic, whole-cone Gargoyle hops from Hops-Meister farms in Lake County. Their new organic, sulfite-free, and oak-fermented cider, Alrighty Then, was canned over the summer, just in time for Sonoma County Cider Week in August.

Leaky Barrel ciders are sold at Sebastopol Community Market, Barley & Bine in Windsor, Oliver’s Markets, Bottle Barn in Santa Rosa, Willibees in Petaluma, Rincon Valley Tap Room, and Beercraft in Rohnert Park.

323-352-3987, halfpintciders.com/leakybarrel.

Dutton Estate hard cider paired with bites of Marin French brie on dried apple at Dutton Estate Winery in Sebastopol, California on Wednesday, July 27, 2016. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
Dutton Estate hard cider paired with bites of Marin French brie on dried apple at Dutton Estate Winery in Sebastopol. (Alvin Jornada)
Dutton Estate Winery

The Dutton family has been farming apples at Dutton Ranch, their agricultural headquarters along a stretch of Graton Road, for more than 50 years. Today the ranch, now co-owned by brothers Joe and Steve Dutton, includes about 180 acres of organic apples in addition to more than 1,000 acres of grapes.

Dutton Estate Winery, helmed by Joe and wife Tracy, didn’t start producing its own commercial hard ciders until 2015. The winery currently offers two handcrafted ciders: one flagship cider, Dutton Estate Hard Apple Cider, made by blending estate Gravensteins with Golden Delicious, and a limited-production hard cider made from Fuji apples. They are barrel fermented and bottled in beer-sized 500-milliliter bottles.

Because the apples used in these ciders are harvested at different times, they typically sell out before the next vintage is bottled.

The Gravenstein/Golden Delicious cider, which blends the sweet and tart flavors of the two apples, and the Fuji cider are normally both available to taste and purchase at the family’s Sebastopol tasting room. However, the Fuji cider is currently sold out.

Dutton Estate Winery is open daily 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.

8757 Green Valley Road, Sebastopol, 707-829-9463, duttonestate.com.

Horse and Plow winery owners and cidermakers Chris Condos and Suzanne Hagins with their son Dean Condos and family dog Pepita, at Horse and Plow winery in Sebastopol, California on Wednesday, July 27, 2016. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
Horse and Plow winery owners and cidermakers Chris Condos and Suzanne Hagins with their son Dean Condos and family dog Pepita, at Horse and Plow winery in Sebastopol. (Alvin Jornada)
Horse & Plow

Horse & Plow’s cider-making business started as an experiment in 2013, when Chris Condos and Suzanne Hagins suddenly found themselves with an abundance
of apples on their Sebastopol property.

The two winemakers decided to make good use of the fruit by creating another fermented drink. Their elegant, blended ciders — fermented separately by varietal — soon garnered a following, and their cider-making business grew. Due to the high demand, they’ve doubled their production since 2013.

Horse & Plow currently produces some 1,200 cases of cider a year, and releases a new cider — using a different apple varietal and blend — at their Sebastopol tasting barn every couple of weeks. Varietals include Wickson, Jonathan, Swaar/Pippin blend, and Gravenstein.
They offer rotating ciders on tap in their tasting bar, including their Wickson (tart crab apple) or Gravenstein ciders, and new releases such as their 2018 Hops & Honey, a refreshing sparkling cider fermented with — but of course — hops and honey. They host a First Friday event every month in the tasting barn, with live music, food, and cider samples.

The tasting barn is open daily from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. 1272 Gravenstein Highway N., Sebastopol, 707-827-3486, horseandplow.com.

Scott Heath and Ellen Cavalli of Tilted Shed will host their the legendary Txotx Spanish Cider Party at Tilted Shed Ciderworks in Windsor. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)
Scott Heath and Ellen Cavalli of Tilted Shed. (Christopher Chung)

Tilted Shed

Scott Heath and Ellen Cavalli launched Tilted Shed in 2011, and the business has been growing steadily ever since. There seems to be a constant and ever-increasing demand for their terroir-driven heirloom apple ciders, which are available across the state. The company’s Cider Club is currently at full capacity, with plans to expand soon.

Now in its eighth year, the cidery has eight different (while supplies last) ciders available at the Windsor taproom as well as for sale online at tiltedshed.vinespring.com.

When they aren’t busy apple-farming, making ciders, or assisting customers, Cavalli and Heath are pouring their energy into a variety of cider- and apple-related projects. The couple founded and managed the first Sonoma County Cider Week in August of 2018, and Cavalli presents at countrywide events such as Cider-Days in Massachusetts and the U.S Association of Cider Makers’ annual conference. They also launched their own cider-focused quarterly print magazine, Malus.

Tilted Shed Cidery & Tasting Room is open from noon to 5 p.m. Saturdays and for special events. Tastings are $10, waived with a two-bottle purchase. Look for them at the annual Weekend Along the Farm Trails on October 12 (farmtrails.org). In past years they have offered cider-making demos and workshops.

7761 Bell Road, Windsor, 707-657-7796, tiltedshed.com.

Go If You Dare: Ghost Tours Take Participants to Sonoma’s Haunted Places

The Mountain Cemetery in Sonoma holds the crypts of many of the merchant families from the last 150 years.

Cue the minor-chord organ music: it’s that time of year, when we give our inner paranormal detective permission to play, and the town of Sonoma is reportedly a place that many a ghost calls home. From Mountain Cemetery to the Sebastiani Theater, Sonoma has a number of haunted places, including several wineries where wine isn’t the only spirit to be found.

For those who want to delve deeper, two local tours stand out, one of them led by Carla Heine Mirsberger, author of “Sonoma Ghosts,” historian, and the city’s reigning poltergeist-laureate.

Heine has lived for half a century near Sonoma’s historic plaza, and has been interested in the paranormal since childhood. “I grew up in an adobe built for General Vallejo by Indian slaves. There were five murders in the house. We had eight ghosts. Dad said, ‘Live with it; the escrow’s closed.’”

Heine used to lead tours in her Phantom Limo, which has now gone to “limo heaven,” she says. These days, the curious can walk the actual footsteps of the ghosts she introduces, and she takes great care to research the locations, history, and background, often using electromagnetic resonators and dousing rods, to find out “who these people were, and why they haven’t moved on.”

A statue with a missing head tops the grave of the Ramacciotti family in the Mountain Cemetery in Sonoma.
A statue with a missing head tops the grave of the Ramacciotti family in the Mountain Cemetery in Sonoma. (John Burgess)

At the top of her list of five locations for spotting ghosts in Sonoma is the empty lot behind the Mission San Francisco Solano, at First and Spain streets. “There is an amazing opportunity to see the ghost of Sem-Yeto (Mighty Strong Arm.) He was the Pomo Chief of Chiefs of the Bear Cult sacrifices that took place at those times. The Bear Spirit has also been seen there after sunset on a regular basis over the last 150 years. If you go looking for him, aim high: he is about seventeen feet tall and neon blue.”

The whipping tree on First Street East, the carriage drive at Vallejo’s Home, the west side of City Hall, Depot Park, and the Sonoma Mountain Cemetery are also quite active.

“If you want to see a ghost, you have to go where they have been seen often, at the time they have been seen. In Sonoma that means twilight.” The witching hour.

Ellen MacFarlane, who leads the Sonoma Plaza Ghost Walks with her partner, Devin Sisk, has also felt drawn to the occult since early childhood.

“I come from a long line of mediums. I lost my mother suddenly at the age of 10, and soon after that, I began to try to reach out to the other side to find her.”

She and Sisk are also event producers, and last year hosted the largest paranormal conference in Northern California, with celebrity speakers, seances, tattoo artists, vendors, and even a bagpiper in a Freddie Kruger mask. The event sold out. Their local tours are part actual paranormal investigation, part history, and part personal experiences, with a bit of comedy thrown in.

MacFarlane concurs that Sonoma’s plaza is heavily haunted. “You can go there at any time of day and feel it. We have seen a Mexican soldier at the Mission, as well as a robed monk carrying two flaming lanterns up the barracks stairs. We also communicate with a little boy nearby, and one evening, when there were no children, and no breeze, he began to swing on the swing in the playground. It moved back and forth for quite some time, then it just stopped. Ghosts do as they please.” A “lady in white” has also been spotted in the dining room behind the Toscano Hotel.

But perhaps no place in Sonoma houses as many restless phantoms as the former music hall, now the Sebastiani Theater, where three female ghosts make regular appearances. Barbara, a stage manager who fell to her death while crossing a catwalk that was used for elevated scenery walks that catwalk still … from the beyond the grave. Washing your hands in the women’s restroom, you may encounter Trixie, a girl in a 1930s yellow dress reflected just over your shoulder in the mirror, appraising your outfit. And should you sit in the center of the front row of the theater, be prepared for the disgruntled countenance of a deceased elderly patron who still thinks of that as her seat.

Twilight Tours with Carla Heine Mirsberger take place around the Sonoma Plaza on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday evenings. 707-996-1600

Sonoma Valley Ghost Walking Tours take place year-round, Wednesdays and Fridays. 888-298-6124, napaghosts.com

Shop Sonoma County Art Trails for Exquisite Finds for Your Home

Sure, Sonoma is rich in wine and agriculture, but did you know it also boasts a crop of fantastic artists? And many of the area’s artists will open their studios to the public for the Sonoma County’s Art Trails event taking place the second and third weekends in October.

Art Trails provides a map of artists’ studios to lead participants on a self-guided tour. Artists open their studios, share their processes and offer some of their work for sale. For information on some of the featured artists, click through the above gallery.

Sonoma County Art Trails 2019, October 12, 13, 19 and 20, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., sonomacountyarttrails.com

Cumin Indian Restaurant | Santa Rosa

Chili chicken momo at Cumin Restaurant in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD

For years, a baffling question has wracked the greatest culinary minds: Is there actually a difference between butter chicken and chicken tikka masala at Santa Rosa Indian restaurants?

To date, the answer has been elusive. They’re both tomato and cream-based sauces that no one can resist. They’re both on nearly every Indian restaurant menu without a clear explanation. They look and taste almost identical, and therein lies the garam masala rub.

Dhiraj Kafle, co-founder of Santa Rosa’s Cumin Indian Restaurant, has the answer.

The remarkably similar dishes differ in just one way — butter chicken (murgh makani) is a creamy blend of tomato sauce and spices while tikka masala has a creamy tomato gravy and onion sauce.

“They almost look the same but there is a subtle difference in taste and flavor,” says Kafle.

Butter chicken vs. tikka masala chicken at Cumin Restaurant in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PDAt Kafle’s restaurant, you can take the challenge for yourself. Both are equally delicious and they are, in fact, just a little different.

Plus, you can also have the best momos in Sonoma County.

Cumin is the dream of Kafle, who visited Santa Rosa several years ago and found something lacking in the North Indian/Nepalese restaurants here.

“After visiting several local ethnic restaurants, we were yet to find one that left us wanting more. I knew I could do better,” he says.

Joining with former Kafal owner Rak Thapa, the restaurant opened in July 2019and so far reviews have been positive. Like, okay, stop bugging me with all your emails telling me how good it is.

It’s not that the menu at Cumin is especially unique, but Kafle says that’s the point — serving Nepalese and North Indian dishes that people like.

Lamb khadi at Cumin Restaurant in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin)
Lamb khadi at Cumin Restaurant in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD

It’s extensive with familiar flavors of palak paneer, aloo gobi, naan and tandoor. There are also some outliers such as goat biriyani, lamb curry and slow-cooked carrot pudding.

“We believe in simplicity and consistency. Our objective is to bring smiles to our customers by focusing on the quality of food and service,” said Kafle.

Best Bets

Chicken Momo ($8.99): Nepalese dumplings stuffed with minced chicken and mild spices. “I can’t stop eating these,” says my dad, eating most of the plate. Delicately flavored and even better with a dip of achar (a sassy ketchup sauce). Kick it up a notch with Kothay, which are fried momos.

Saag Paneer ($13.99): Chopped, cooked spinach with creamy tomato and onion sauce, studded with cubes of delicate Indian cheese.

Aloo gobi at Cumin Restaurant in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD
Aloo gobi at Cumin Restaurant in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD

Aloo Gobi ($13.99): A vegetarian dish made with cauliflower and potatoes with plenty of turmeric.

Butter Chicken ($14.99): Shredded dark meat chicken in a mild tomato cream sauce. My personal favorite.

Tikka Masala ($14.99): A slightly more complex tomato cream sauce. Available with chicken, tofu, veggies, or lamb.

Rice Pudding ($5.99): Warm cardamom spices in a puddle of creamy jasmine rice in cream.

Butter chicken, palak paneer, peas pulav and onion kulcha at Cumin Restaurant in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD
Butter chicken, palak paneer, peas pulav and onion kulcha at Cumin Restaurant in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD

Details: Cumin Restaurant is at 170 Farmers Lane, Ste. 8, near the Flamingo Hotel. Phone: 707-771-8336. Lunch: 11 a.m.- 2:30 p.m.; Dinner: 5 p.m.- 9:30 p.m. Closed on Tuesdays.

Find a Cheese Lover’s Paradise at New Valley Ford Cafe and Shop

Diners at the Valley Ford Cheese & Creamery can see into a cheese aging room. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Driving through the foggy, windswept hills of western Sonoma County, it’s easy to see (and sometimes smell) the area’s biggest claim to fame — cows. Where there are cows, there is milk. And where there is milk, there is the ultimate form of lactose: cheese.

The green valleys and craggy peaks that lead to Bodega Bay are home to more than 60 dairies and nearly a dozen artisan cheesemakers. Fourth-generation dairywoman Karen Bianchi-Moreda is both.

Born a Bianchi, her family owns one of the oldest dairies in the area, which is known for its unpredictable but generally cool microclimate. The dairies here have been operated by the same families for generations — and many of their founders were Northern Italians, like Bianchi-Moreda’s great- grandparents, who founded their dairy in 1918.

The Bianchi family has owned and operated their 640 acre ranch in Valley Ford since 1918. In this photo from the early sixties Karen Bianchi-Moreda's grandfather John on horseback, grandmother Helen, dad Paul and Uncle George along with a cousin in front of the barn which now holds the cheese making operation. (photo by John Burgess/Sonoma Magazine)
The Bianchi family has owned and operated their 640 acre ranch in Valley Ford since 1918. In this photo from the early sixties Karen Bianchi-Moreda’s grandfather John on horseback, grandmother Helen, dad Paul and Uncle George along with a cousin in front of the barn which now holds the cheese making operation. (photo by John Burgess/Sonoma Magazine)

Though the Bianchis have been selling milk from their Jersey herd to other creameries like Bellwether Farms for decades, selling their own cheese wasn’t on the radar until 2008.

“Growing up, my grandma and grandpa always had this nutty Swiss cheese they made on the table,” Bianchi-Moreda says. That European-style cheese historically made with milk from the high Alps became the basis for her own Estero Gold Reserve

With a shrinking dairy industry and an endless supply of rich Jersey cow milk, Bianchi-Moreda picked up cheesemaking as a hobby. It soon became a fascination, and over the next few years, her signature cheese was born. The creamy young cheese ages into a savory, nutty semi-hard cheese inspired by the ones she grew up with.

“We have a really good product to start with, so you can make a really good cheese,” she says.

After taking classes at Cal Poly in San Louis Obispo, Bianchi-Moreda learned the technical details of culturing and pH — the aspects she jokingly refers to as “the science and stuff,” adding that much of what makes a good cheese is up to nature to decide.

The Valley Ford Cheese Company, which she now runs with her elder son Joe Moreda Jr., produces up to 8,000 wheels of cheese a year. It’s a product that supports the family dairy in a time when many others are struggling.

As of this summer, Bianchi-Moreda is also running a cheese shop, cafe, and cheese-aging facility in downtown Valley Ford, aptly named Valley Ford Cheese & Creamery.

Karen Bianchi-Moreda of Valley Ford Cheese Co. stirs a vat of curds and whey as she makes her Estero Gold cheese at her farm in Valley Ford, California on Thursday, March 3, 2011. (Beth Schlanker/The Press Democrat)
Karen Bianchi-Moreda of Valley Ford Cheese Co. stirs a vat of curds and whey as she makes her Estero Gold cheese at her farm in Valley Ford, California on Thursday, March 3, 2011. (Beth Schlanker)
A Golden Cheese

The popularity of Estero Gold can be tracked by the dozens of local restaurants and bakeries that use it. A key ingredient in dishes from scones and salads to burgers and even desserts, it has a savory, umami quality much like Parmesan.

“I didn’t really know it was going to turn out like it did,” Bianchi-Moreda says, reflecting on her early efforts on Estero Gold, which earned her several California cheese awards.

Joe Jr. is the full-time cheesemaker these days, expanding the original portfolio of Estero Gold and Highway 1, a fontina-style melting cheese, to include a creamy, young farm cheese and a breakout Gorgonzola- style blue called Grazin’ Girl that recently received high honors from the American Cheese Society.

There’s a true sense of terroir in all of these cheeses. In the spring, they take on a golden hue from the grasses the cows are eating. As they age, natural yeasts and bacteria are expressed, resulting in cheeses with a uniquely west county flavor of spring grasses and ocean air.

“Nobody wanted to age something as long as we do,” Bianchi-Moreda says of the Estero Gold Reserve, which sits up to 18 months, as opposed to up to six months for a non-reserve cheese. “I love the seasonality of it. It’s consistent but still changes. It’s just about what happens at exactly that time of year.

“We have the best climate for everything,” she adds.

The Valley Ford Cheese & Creamery makes four varieties of cheese: "Highway 1" Fontina style, "Grazin Girl" Gorgonzola style, and two different "Estero Gold" Montasio style cheeses. (photo by John Burgess/Sonoma Magazine)
The Valley Ford Cheese & Creamery makes four varieties of cheese: “Highway 1” Fontina style, “Grazin Girl” Gorgonzola style, and two different “Estero Gold” Montasio style cheeses. (John Burgess)
Family Ties

Names like Bianchi, DeBernardi, and Benedetti still dot dairy signs and mailboxes along the country roads in this foggy microclimate. In the case of the Bianchis, the family’s “home office” is a 640-acre ranch they have owned for more than 100 years.

Now, Bianchi-Moreda’s sons are the fifth generation of dairymen to carry on the family’s legacy. Her son Jim recently returned from a year in New Zealand to work on the family farm (he will soon be venturing out to run his own dairy). Her father, Paul, and brother, Steve, currently manage the family’s dairy.

After studying at Cal Poly, the siblings both decided to enter the family business, something Bianchi- Moreda says surprised her.

“Joe Jr. came home to do the cheese. He wanted us to grow the business together,” she says. “He works two times as hard as anyone else would have.”

Jim is usually up before dawn with the herd.

“This is a lot of hard work. Their energy level, though … they’re just so driven,” says their mother. “This is the next generation.”

The Valley Ford Cheese & Creamery opened a new store with gifts, wines, pastries and breads and a breakfast and lunch menu featuring their cheese in the tiny west county village of Valley Ford. (John Burgess/Sonoma Magazine)
The Valley Ford Cheese & Creamery opened a new store with gifts, wines, pastries and breads and a breakfast and lunch menu featuring their cheese in the tiny west county village of Valley Ford. (John Burgess)
A Gathering Place

At the new Valley Ford Cheese & Creamery, family and friends comprise most of the staff, including the general manager, clerks, and clean-up crew.

“This is what I’ve wanted. I love having this,” she says. “They call me Auntie,” she laughs as a nephew behind the counter fills a coffee cup.

Her newest project is a 5,500-square-foot space that she spent three years rehabbing. The former wool mill (which was also an antique shop, offices, and a deli over the years) needed some serious help, but a series of building delays drew out the process.

It wasn’t so much a race as a marathon to make the rustic roadhouse reflect her vision.


“It’s exactly how I designed it in my head,” she says. Filled with reclaimed barn doors and weathered wood, it is charming without being overly chic.

Though no cheese is made on-site (it is produced at the ranch facility) the building houses 2,400 wheels of aging cheese and serves as a distribution center. In back, a large water reclamation tank serves as irrigation and as an extra water supply for the local fire crew. Though Valley Ford is less than five miles from the ocean, fresh water is in short supply in the area.

The creamery has more than a few surprises for visitors. There’s a former Meadowood chef in the kitchen, pastries from an in-house pastry chef, a cozy bar with local wine and beer, picnic grab-and-go items, and three large windows that look into the cheese aging rooms.

The yellow wheels of cheese with dates scrawled across the sides are a mesmerizing visual while eating delicately plated deviled eggs — each of which has a small radish flower perched on top, with pearls of grainy mustard and house-made harissa.

Valley Ford Grilled Cheese at Valley Ford Cheese & Creamery. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
Valley Ford Grilled Cheese at Valley Ford Cheese & Creamery. Heather Irwin/PD

“Oh, yeah, the eggs. They’re beautiful, right? I have pictures of the first ones he made for me,” says Bianchi-Moreda, referring to chef Poncho Vasquez. The young culinary star and his wife, Danie, fell into Bianchi-Moreda’s life unexpectedly. Taking a break from their former jobs, the couple took up residence in Bodega with one of Bianchi-Moreda’s friends, who introduced them to her as a possible match for the new project.

“Things happen for a reason,” says Bianchi-Moreda. “I’ve been praying for someone like them.”

The young chefs weren’t looking to get back into the stressful world of tweezer-perfect restaurants. So they didn’t. Instead, they are helping to build a food program for the creamery with their own unique stamp.

“We decided to start small, but if we’re going to make grilled cheese, it should be the best grilled cheese,” Bianchi-Moreda says.

The menu is hot dog-basket approachable — minus the plastic basket. Instead, food is served on a rustic wood board with artisanal honey and borage. A deceptively simple panini is made with Forestville’s Nightingale bread, housemade porchetta, and the creamery’s melty fontina-style cheese. It comes with delicately rolled strips of summer squash and cherry tomatoes, house-made chips, and preserved garlic aioli. Danie makes focaccia with Grazin’ Girl blue and figs.

 

The Valley Ford Cheese & Creamery store in the small village of Valley Ford in west Sonoma County. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
The Valley Ford Cheese & Creamery recently opened their store in the small village on Hwy 1 in west Sonoma county. (photo by John Burgess/Sonoma Magazine)

There is plenty of space to spread out, with indoor tables and chairs, barstools pulled up to glazed redwood counters, and an outdoor patio that welcomes dogs. The family-friendly menu makes it a perfect pitstop for the drive between Petaluma and Bodega.

“People have really found this area. Tourism to the coast has really skyrocketed in the last eight years,” she says.

Valley Ford now boasts four restaurants, a surf shop, and a general store in addition to a post office and fire station. It’s a town Bianchi-Moreda’s family helped to forge, and one she thinks her grandparents would still recognize.

“My grandpa bought the first firetruck here,” she says. “I like to think that he and my grandmother would be pretty proud of what we’ve done.”

 

Mountain Lions in Sonoma County, and a Man’s Mission to Save Them

They could not see the cat, but it was watching them. The day Jamie Burkart discovered the carcass of his goat, partially eaten and cached under a blackberry bush at the base of Sonoma Mountain, he put in a call to Quinton Martins, who showed up with a dead deer in his truck.

The deer would serve as bait for the big cat who’d taken Burkart’s goat. Martins, an easygoing South African outdoorsman and wildlife biologist, specializes in big cats. He specializes, more specifically, in saving them, by explaining the crucial role they play in preserving the balance of the ecosystems through which they range, and by reminding people that mountain lions have far more to fear from us than we do from them.

To save them, he first traps them, which is why Martins asked Burkart, quite matter of factly, if he knew how to quarter a deer. “I’d moved from San Francisco about a year earlier,” recalls Burkart, who works in the wine industry. “I have no idea how to quarter a deer.”

His buddy Stephen did. Stephen is an ex-Army Ranger with whom Burkart had already tracked the goat’s blood trail down a steep slope, across Matanzas Creek, over multiple fences, and up another steep embankment, “almost a cliff.”

The traps were set and baited. Not long after night fell, the mountain lion now known as P5 was in a cage.

“He’d been watching us the whole time,” Burkart believes.

It’s still easy for landowners in Sonoma County to get a depredation permit from the state’s Department of Fish and Wildlife, allowing them to kill a mountain lion. One need only show proof of the cats preying on livestock or pets.

For more than a century in the American West, the policy of ranchers toward livestock-killing big cats was summed up by an alliterative death sentence: “Shoot, shovel, and shut up.”

These days, that path is taken less frequently, in California in general and Sonoma County in particular. Some of the credit for this goes to Martins, a native of South Africa with a Ph.D. in Zoology who is the founder and director of an Audubon Canyon Ranch (ACR) project called Living with Lions.

By placing GPS collars on the big cats they trap — like the one placed around the neck of the cougar who made a meal of Burkart’s goat — Martins and his team of ACR scientists, local veterinarians, and volunteers are able to map their ranges and territories, and to identify critical wildlife corridors. This is an important aspect of the research done by Living with Lions, which ACR executive director John Petersen describes as a program that “touches all corners of our mission.” One of those corners, says Petersen, is “education of the community on how to co-exist with these top predators.”

Photo by By Jamie Gundry / Shutterstock
South African native Quinton Martins looks for mountain lion tracks while following a mountain lion in the hills above the Sonoma Valley. (John Burgess)
South African native Quinton Martins looks for mountain lion tracks while following a mountain lion in the hills above the Sonoma Valley. (John Burgess)

Burkart, to be sure, had much to learn. The handful of pigs and goats on his 5-acre spread had access to a shelter that allowed them refuge from the rain. But it had no door, as Martins pointed out during his visit. “It was a quick fix,” says Burkart, who now blames himself for the loss of his goat. “That situation happened because of my ignorance. If I’m going to spend that much on animals, I can spend a little more and get a door.”

More than two years later, Burkart is still struck by the number of people in his community who don’t realize they are sharing the area with big cats. A woman who lives a half-mile from him lost several goats in a short period of time. She assumed someone was stealing them.

Exiting a Glen Ellen coffee shop recently, Martins came upon a woman who’d stopped to look at the cougar logo and slogan on his truck. “Did you know that you’re living with lions?” he asked, with a smile.

Indeed, she agreed, her husband believed he’d seen one while riding his mountain bike.

It’s a catchy slogan, but what does “Living with Lions” mean? What does it look like?

It looks like the juvenile male puma that took refuge in a planter outside the Santa Rosa Macy’s on B Street in April. Between the time they’re 10 to 18 months old, lions “disperse” to new territory. That is, they leave their mothers — or are forced by their mothers to leave. Those animals, like the cat at the mall, are far more vulnerable than adults. They’re on unfamiliar turf, their hunting skills aren’t yet fully honed. The adult males in their new area are not pleased to see them, and will sometimes kill them.

To avoid that fate, younger males sometimes range into what Martins described as “odd areas” — like a shopping mall on a Monday morning.

Living with lions means discovering, as Maria Cardamone did one morning in January, upon walking out to her pasture in Willow Creek, that both her llamas had been killed. She and her husband, Paul Matthews, have a barn, but the llamas disliked spending the night in it.

The bereaved couple had already met Martins, were familiar with his work, and reached out to him immediately.

To bait this trap, Martins would need some part of a llama carcass. But Matthews, showing admirable initiative, already had fired up his tractor and buried the victims.

“Sweetie,” Cardamone told him, after consulting with Martins, “you have to dig up Rocky.”

Following some initial resistance (“No effing way,” he’d replied), Matthews disinterred the llama, whose remains successfully lured the mountain lion, a large male cougar dubbed P14 — the 14th lion trapped by Martins in Sonoma County.

Two months later, P14’s collar showed he had roamed more than 200 miles, between Fort Ross, Guerneville, and Sea Ranch.

The experience proved educational for Cardamone.

“I mean, no one’s putting out cat chow for them,” she says. “The lion was being a lion.”

P14 was also being a lion some seven months later when he killed 12 sheep on a Point Arena property whose owner promptly requested a depredation permit. On July 29, P14 became the fourth collared mountain lion killed for livestock depredation since Living with Lions began its research in October 2016.

These are all photos of a 2 ½-year-old mountain lion dubbed P14 who was captured, tranquilized, collared with a GPS device and then released in early January in west Sonoma County as part of the Aububon Canyon Ranch Living With Lions program. ©Audubon Canyon Ranch / egret.org
A team from Living with Lions works quickly to examine and collar a large male cougar dubbed P14 in early January before releasing it in west Sonoma County. (Courtesy Audubon Canyon Ranch)

These are all photos of a 2 ½-year-old mountain lion dubbed P14 who was captured, tranquilized, collared with a GPS device and then released in early January in west Sonoma County as part of the Aububon Canyon Ranch Living With Lions program. ©Audubon Canyon Ranch / egret.org

Such “mass depredation events,” Martins points out, occur when livestock are kept in enclosures that aren’t sufficiently predator-proof, and offer no escape routes.

“Ultimately,” he wrote on the ACR website, “the question our region grapples with is do we value top-carnivores — and the crucial role they play in our own survival — enough to plan for their welfare when we introduce pets and livestock into their range?

“For those of us who take on the responsibility of owning and caring for livestock or pets, we do it with the understanding that their welfare depends on the provision of a safe, predator-proof environment. We also know that if we value our wild neighbors, we must remain vigilant against creating an irresistible lure.”

To Martins, the messaging of Living with Lions is no less important than the research it conducts. That’s why the group posts maps of the cougars’ whereabouts, and videos of them in the wild. (“Mountain Lion Kittens Learning New ‘Big Cat’ Skills,” announced a recent headline on the ACR website.) The point is to allow the public to get to know, and even become emotionally invested in the big cats. It’s an unabashedly marketing-based approach, and not all conservation scientists are down with it.

Martins has “told us many times he wants his animals to be media stars,” says Greg Martinelli, lands program manager for the California Department of Fish and Wildlife, a Living with Lions partner. “There’s a difference between science and advocacy.” With Martins, he thinks, “those lines are a little blurred.”

Martins makes no apologies for his unorthodox approach. He believes that the focus of conservation in the years to come needs to be on marketing, and on recruiting entrepreneurs and leaders from beyond the environmental and nonprofit spaces — “the Bill Gateses and Elon Musks, people who have been incredibly successful in the corporate world.”

“This is the community that will end up finding the solutions, in the long run.” After all, he points out, “We’ve got the best product on the planet. We’ve got the planet!”

The man who seeks nothing less than to overhaul and defibrillate the conservation movement grew up in Welkom, South Africa, which he describes as “a crappy gold-mining town” 90 miles northeast of Bloemfontein. His happiest hours were spent outdoors, camping and fishing with his father.

“We used to go to some pretty cool, wild places, to go fishing,” Martins says. “I remember the connection to nature, just sitting quietly, enjoying that peace.

“For my sins,” he says with a smile, “I studied for a degree in law. In my third year, I realized it wasn’t my scene.”

A juvenile mountain lion was darted and removed from a planter box on the east side of Macy's at the Santa Rosa Plaza by California Fish and Wildlife officers on Monday morning. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
A juvenile mountain lion was darted and removed from a planter box on the east side of Macy’s at the Santa Rosa Plaza by California Fish and Wildlife officers in April, 2019. (John Burgess)
California Fish and Wildlife officers prepare to tranquilize a juvenile mountain lion in a planter box on the east side of Macy's at the Santa Rosa Plaza by officers on Monday morning. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
California Fish and Wildlife officers prepare to tranquilize a juvenile mountain lion in a planter box on the east side of Macy’s at the Santa Rosa Plaza. (John Burgess)

A juvenile mountain lion was darted and removed from a planter box on the east side of Macy's at the Santa Rosa Plaza by California Fish and Wildlife officers on Monday morning. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Martins followed his heart back outdoors, and found work as safari guide. First he was a hunter, then a photographer on safari camps that involved no hunting. For close to 10 years, his “offices” were some of Africa’s wildest places, including the Okavango Delta, a World Heritage site in Botswana that’s home to rhinos, cheetahs, and lions.

Two things came into sharp focus for him during that decade: the importance to the planet of those vast wilderness areas, and his purpose on said planet. After earning a bachelor’s degree in zoology at the University of Cape Town, he launched the Cape Leopard Trust, a program similar to Living with Lions that has grown and thrived — after a shaky beginning.

Securing permission from the South African government to do his research proved less problematic, he found, than paying for it. Martins hocked many of his possessions to keep the leopard trust afloat. By March 2004, he’d sold his car and was crashing at his mother’s house in Cape Town and hitchhiking the 100-plus miles to the Cederberg Wilderness Area to do his fieldwork.

Later that year, when a trek took him onto the estate of a landowner, he called the man to tell him, “I was hiking out in the middle of nowhere and I kinda ended up on your property.” The landowner had heard of him, it turned out, and wanted to know more about his pet project.

“I was like, yeah, whatever,” says Martins, who by then was down to his last 57 rand — less than $4 — and had begun to lose hope. But he sent an email to that man, Johan van der Westhuizen, who then asked Martins for a meeting.

Suspecting it was a waste of time, he borrowed his brother’s car, drove to north Cape Town and sat down in the office of van der Westhuizen, who pushed a check for 15,000 rand — about $2,200 — across the desk to him. “He told me, ‘I really want you to carry on this work,’” Martins recalled, “And I burst into tears.”

Van der Westhuizen remembers that meeting, and remains in awe of his friend’s “remarkable focus” and “dedication and passion for his chosen journey in life.”

With today’s remote technologies not yet available, Martins “had to physically check his cameras and cages in the roughest mountain ranges, to a point of total burnout. Yet he doggedly soldiered on,” recalls Van der Westhuizen. He judges the leopards of South Africa’s western cape as lucky “that Quinton arrived to champion their cause.” The big cats of Northern California, he believes, are just as lucky.

In 2008, a sixth-grade teacher named Liz Bond drove to the Cederberg wilderness to recharge after a draining week. Upon returning from a long hike the following day, she met the person other backpackers had referred to as “the Leopard Man.” This was Martins, who told her, “I’m sure I know you from somewhere.”

Bond’s initial reaction: “I thought, ‘That’s a pretty lame pickup line.’ But later we figured it out.” They’d been in an archaeology class together at the University of Capetown.

Bond was headed home, until Martins talked her into staying an extra day, which turned into several days. Three months later, they were engaged.

Late in 2014, after 11 years running the Cape Leopard Trust, they moved to the Bay Area. Martins felt a strong pull to Northern California, whose financial and intellectual resources make it, in his opinion, “probably the most important place in the world in terms of the potential to come up with more successful conservation strategies.”

“What’s so great about this state,” he says, “is that you don’t feel alone in having a big vision. You feel anything is possible. People make it work.”

Not everyone shares his vision. In February, Patricia Damery discovered the grisly remains of her beloved goat, Dasher, on her ridgeline property in the Napa area. She is an author and self-described biodynamic farmer whose ideals — “live with nature, not against it” — were put to the test that day.

Damery’s first reaction was less biodynamic than Biblical — as in “eye for an eye.” Her two grandsons had been playing with friends around that same goat pen the previous evening. Her first instinct, she recalls, “was to protect them all.”

At her invitation, a trapper set up a cage on the property, baiting it with parts of the freshly killed goat. The trapper also began the process of applying for a depredation permit. Once the permit was issued and the mountain lion caged, the trapper would be required by law to kill it.

Meanwhile, on the advice of a friend, Damery called Martins, who persuaded her there was a better way. He assured her that killing one mountain lion wouldn’t keep others away, though it would throw that area’s ecosystem out of whack. He also made the point that it is the landowners’ responsibility to secure their animals, to shelter them from marauding predators.

She changed her mind, resulting in an awkward conversation with the trapper, who’d spent five hours on her property, only to be instructed to please close and remove his trap because Martins and his team would be taking over.

Then came the call at 1:30 a.m. “There’s a lion in the cage,” Martins told her. “We’ll be there shortly. Do not go down there.”

Working with local veterinarian Graham Crawford to gauge the animal’s age and weight, the team settled on the proper dose of anesthetic, then darted the cat, an 80-pound male. Once it was unconscious, the lion was placed on a tarp. Martins and his team went into action. Blood samples were taken. Its limbs, girth, and teeth were measured. All of this, Crawford says, takes 45 to 50 minutes. As the 15th and most recent lion collared by Living with Lions, he was known thereafter as P15.

“We even examined his teeth,” Damery recalls. The Living with Lions team suggested she name the lion, whom she dubbed Jupiter. “I just fell in love with that lion, even though it had just killed my goat,” she says.

The naming, touching, and bonding with lions are practices “we tend to have a little bit of an issue with,” says Martinelli of the state’s fish and wildlife department.

“These are not pets,” he says. “They’re not owned by anyone. They’re wild animals.” Less than a week later, P15 was shot dead some 20 feet from the front door of a Napa property where it already had killed sheep on two previous nights. The man who fired the shot was a seasoned hunter. He and his wife are the parents of three young children.

“As a parent,” Alejandra Calderon says, “I hope that they understand how scared we were in the moment. It was a scary experience.”

Still, she and her husband were vilified on social media. The couple had defenders, but fewer of them. One of them is Eric Dicke, whose family has been ranching in Sonoma County since 1867. A road building contractor based in Healdsburg, he has a small number of sheep. He’s also been a state-licensed trapper of coyotes and mountain lions since 1983.

“This whole issue has become so politicized,” he says. “You either love mountain lions or you hate ’em. Well, I love mountain lions, but I don’t love them in my livestock.”

He’s met and talked to Martins, who has echoed his point that landowners have a responsibility to shelter their animals from predators. That’s fine if you’ve only got a handful of animals, Dicke says.

“But if you’ve got three or four hundred sheep, it’s not practical” he adds, for many ranchers to build a barn big enough for protection.

Joe Pozzi, a rancher who owns and manages grazing lands in western Sonoma and Marin counties, agrees that it’s simply “not practical” to house a large flock. “They’re grazing animals,” he says of his sheep, “and every day they’re moving to a different part of the ranch. They bed down in different areas.”

“Lions are beautiful animals,” he went on. “Nobody wants to go hunt ’em all down. [But if ] something comes into your flock, or your herd, economically, you have to deal with it. That’s the reality of it. “Those animals pay your bills. You do whatever you can to protect them.”

“There’s a long history, on the range, of taking care of predators,” says Tony Nelson, a wildlife ecologist and Sonoma Land Trust’s stewardship program manager.

By “taking care of,” he means exterminating. “Some of it is cultural, and some of it is practical.”

But large-scale ranching operations aren’t the lions’ biggest threat, he believes. “I don’t think you can lay it at the door of the ranchers. A lot of the depredation I’ve heard about is done by people who have 10 acres and 15 sheep.”

The threats to mountain lions are numerous, and widespread. In June, two conservation groups formally petitioned California’s Fish and Game Commission to protect imperiled cougar populations in Southern California and on the Central Coast, where habitat loss and fragmentation caused by freeways and sprawl have led to high levels of “genetic isolation and human-caused mortality,” according to Tiffany Yap, a scientist at the Center for Biological Diversity.

“Without a clear legal mandate to protect mountain lions from the threats that are killing them and hemming them in on all sides,” she says, “these iconic wild cats will soon be gone from Southern California.”

While they may not be exactly thriving, the mountain lions of the North Bay are in better shape than big cats elsewhere in the state. “Up here,” explains Nelson, “we don’t have communities and highways to the extent Southern California does, so it’s not quite the same.”

The cougars are assisted, immeasurably, by the 5-mile-long ribbon of land stretching west to east from Sonoma Mountain down to Sonoma Creek and the valley floor near Glen Ellen, then up to the crest of the Mayacamas Range. This 5,000-acre strip, known as the Sonoma Valley Wildlife Corridor, is a patchwork of state and regional parks, open spaces, and easements. It allows wildlife, and plant life, (relatively) safe movement between large blocks of core habitat, Nelson says. “These corridors enable animals to escape predators, find mates, and locate better habitat.”

They’re especially important to wide-ranging big cats. Territories for some males cover hundreds of square miles. When their range is confined, populations — and gene pools — become isolated.

The importance of these “connectivity” corridors was underscored, in frightening fashion, on July 19, when the driver of a pickup struck a mountain lion around 10:30 pm on Highway 29 in Lake County. After hitting the big cat, the truck slid sideways at a high speed into the path of an SUV. Nine people were hospitalized, four with major injuries. The mountain lion was killed.

Martins had spent his adult life tracking and trapping apex predators. It was only a matter of time before misfortune struck.

After parking and exiting his vehicle on a Hood Mountain ridge in late June, he’d taken a couple steps when he noticed the truck was rolling.

Fearing it would go careening down the hillside and “and set the mountain on fire again,” he sprinted back, opened the door, and turned the steering wheel.

At that point the pickup went up on two wheels, then rolled — with Martins inside it. Upon regaining consciousness, he hiked down the mountain to his house, where he asked Liz to accompany him back up to the truck, which had come to rest on its side. He was intent on tipping it back onto its wheels.

“No way,” replied Liz, after taking a look at him. Instead, she took him to the emergency room, where he underwent X-rays and a CT scan.

Did he get the CT scan to see if he had a brain bleed?

“To see if I had a brain,” he replied, sheepishly.

A week later, he and Liz and their 7-year-old daughter flew to Africa, where he spent six weeks as

a group leader of “handcrafted African safaris,” as it says on the website of True Wild. That’s the name of the Martins’ 2-year-old safari planning company — a business that dovetails, he says, with the mission and purpose of Living with Lions.

These expeditions, to wilderness areas like the Oka- vango Delta in Botswana and camps in the Luangwa and Zambezi valleys in Zimbabwe, are designed
“to put wilderness and conservation into a broader perspective” for their clients, who pay top dollar — around $1,000 a day — for that opportunity.

“You’ve got them unplugged for two weeks,” he says. “There’s no need for elevator pitches, you’re sitting around the fire, drinking single malt whiskey, listening to lions calling, and looking at these incred- ible stars.”

Thusly awakened, his clients will be motivated to join the grand battle, Martins hopes. “There are amazing, innovative people out there who don’t even realize that they are key to sorting this out, to helping to pull the emergency brake ….”

“Actually,” he says, “maybe I don’t want to use that analogy.”

Perfectly Proper Piscos at Petaluma Peruvian Restaurant

Ayawaska sour and pisco sour at Ayawaska in Petaluma. (Heather Irwin)

A profusion of Peruvian food in Sonoma County has made once-exotic foods like lomo saltado, Pisco sours and giant kernels of Choclo (Peruvian corn) a more familiar sight. Ayawaska in Petaluma is the newest entrant into the game.

The location is lovely, with indoor and outdoor seating overlooking the Petaluma River. The former Brick Yard space in Theater Square has hosted several failed restaurant concepts, and in many ways seems a bit cavernous in comparison to other nearby bistros.

Pisco punch at Ayawaska in Petaluma. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
Pisco punch at Ayawaska in Petaluma. Heather Irwin/PD

A large menu hits all the high points, including several types of fish ceviche, yuccas, quinoa, beef dishes and preparations that showcase the region’s melting pot of cuisines from China and Japan to Spain, France and indigenous peoples. Sweet, salty, savory and spicy flavors intermingle in each dish thanks to corn, raisins, yellow peppers and piquant spices.

While some dishes are truly memorable, like a savory corn cake with mushrooms and white wine or decadent cheesecake, others fall a bit flat, either lacking seasoning or hitting the salt a bit hard. Ceviches are good, but lack the sharp tang of citrus that usually makes the mix of raw fish, corn, sweet potato, red onion and that usually make this marinade so memorable.

Pisco-spiked cocktails made with the much-loved brandy of Peru, are another matter entirely. Topped with egg whites, mixed with lime and served up icy cold are delightful, and the bar at Ayawaska is frequently crowded in the evening.

They’ve also got a number of island tonics made with rum, mezcal and gin if Pisco isn’t your thing. 101 2nd St., #190, Petaluma, ayawaskasf.com.

Fall for Fall: 13 Sonoma Items To Get You In the Autumn Spirit

Because we love fall. Because we’re so happy it’s finally here. Because fall is so extraordinarily beautiful (and tasty) in Sonoma, here are a few things to get you into the spirit of the season. Make sure those trips to your favorite farm stands include a detour to get some “merch” to deck your halls, table, and self in an autumnal way—click through the above gallery for details.

Create a Spa Experience at Home with These Sonoma Products

We can all benefit from some intentional self care from time to time. Unfortunately, paying for a spa extravaganza isn’t always possible — that’s when a do-it-yourself spa moment comes in handy. We picked out a few accoutrements to help you create the right ambiance and relax. Click through the gallery for details — and don’t forget the bubbly!