Best Napa Valley Wineries and Tasting Rooms for Fun and Unique Experiences

Compared to laidback Sonoma County, Napa Valley is sometimes perceived as a little pretentious or snooty (as parodied in Amy Poehler’s Wine Country movie). But while you may come across snobby restaurant- or tasting room staff here and there, many local businesses are now trying to change the Napa narrative by creating fun and unique experiences. For a taste of this more casual and easygoing version of the famous winegrowing region, we’ve lined up 12 wineries that offer something a little different to visitors. Click through the above gallery for details.

One of the World’s Most Notable Graffiti Artists Leaves Her Mark on Napa Valley Train Car

One of the world’s most notable graffiti artists has returned to her native Napa to add her work—legally, this time—to the growing number of public art pieces that comprise the town’s Rail Arts District.

The artist, known only as ELLE, unveiled a new untitled piece last fall, which depicts several women against a backdrop of colorful patterns drawn from Mexican folklore and textiles.

The artwork covers all sides of a railroad car that is parked along the route of the Napa Valley Wine Train and, according to ELLE, it perfectly captures the mission of her art: To use bold colors and eye-catching images to promote strong women.

“It’s important for me to represent powerful females who are kicking ass and breaking glass ceilings,” said ELLE, who uses a pseudonym because so much of her early work was technically illegal. “When I started, very few women were doing graffiti and the world of street art was predominantly male. My whole career has been about changing that.”

ELLE’s ties to Wine Country and the North Bay run deep. She attended a local catholic elementary school. She graduated from Napa High School. She attended the University of California, Davis. She has nearly a dozen family members who live and work in the Napa Valley. She still has friends in the area.

ELLE has also drawn inspiration from people and places in the Napa Valley. During her younger years, she admired the work by local artists such as Gordon Huether, and she loved visiting the modern art collection at Hess Collection, a winery on Mount Veeder. She said she also was influenced by her Napa High school art teacher, Chuck Svendsen.

All these connections make coming home even sweeter.

“It’s pretty neat to finally have a piece in my hometown,” she said, noting that the women on one side of the train are pinky-swearing, a reference to her youth. “To be honest it’s really great to see the city of Napa embracing street art in general.”

ELLE certainly is no stranger to the spotlight; the graduate of Napa High School has been creating public art for more than a decade.

In that time, her work has been exhibited in the prestigious Saatchi Gallery in London, Urban Nation Museum in Berlin, and as a 200-foot-tall projection onto the facade of the New Museum in New York. ELLE painted a 120-foot wrap around the Nike Headquarters building in Melbourne, and Vogue Australia featured ELLE’s art in a story about 32 pieces of Melbourne street art to see before you die. Her graffiti is even featured in the Tom Clancy video game, The Division.

The young artist has also engineered multiple collaborations with the sportswear brand Reebok, including the ELLExReebok graffiti legging and the ELLExReebok yoga capsule collection.

In 2019 alone, ELLE visited Melbourne for a solo show inside the prestigious Rialto Towers; Amsterdam for a joint solo exhibition with Vroom and Varossieau Gallery; and Neuf-Brisach, France, to paint inside the MAUSA Museum.

Few of those accomplishments meant as much to ELLE as returning to Napa.

The city’s Rail Arts District–RAD for short—has become a hotspot for cutting-edge public art. Established in 2016, the group is a nonprofit organization led by the Napa Valley Vine Trail Coalition, the Napa Valley Wine Train and the local arts and business communities, and it spans a 1.7-mile section of an industrial neighborhood that parallels the Wine Train tracks through downtown Napa.

Along this stretch, artists have turned the backs of warehouses and signal boxes into canvases for murals of varying size. ELLE’s piece is the first to appear on a train car itself; though the car can move, it will be parked in its current location indefinitely.

Some of the other artists with work in the RAD include Mikey Kelley, Fintan Magee, Felipe Pantone, and bumblebeelovesyou.

For the latest pictures of ELLE’s work, follow her on Instagram.

This Napa Valley Hotel Is One of the Most Sustainable in the United States

Bardessono Hotel and Spa in Yountville. (Courtesy Bardessono Hotel)

Trying to be kind to the planet and make eco-friendly choices can be challenging when you’re at home but it seems next to impossible when you pack up for vacation.

Thankfully, many wineries, restaurants and hotels in Sonoma and Napa Wine Country are going above and beyond to make it easier to travel with good conscience. Among the hospitality businesses that stand out in this regard is  Bardessono Hotel & Spa in Yountville, recognized as one of the greenest properties in the United States.

Bardessono is one of only eight LEED Platinum hotels in the country, the highest certification for green buildings. From office buildings to schools, any type of building can seek LEED certification. Hotels are unique: since they’re occupied around the clock, they consume resources at a higher rate.

Built on land farmed by the Bardessono family after they arrived from Italy in 1926, the Yountville hotel has always made sustainability a priority — from construction through the 2009 opening to today.

“Sustainability was at the core of Bardessono’s inception, before many of the environmental initiatives we’re familiar with today gained the momentum they have now,” says Stephanie Leavitt, Director of Sales and Marketing at Bardessono.

The hotel was built using 100,000 square feet of salvaged wood — Monterey Cypress, California Bay Laurel, Redwood, Eucalyptus and orchard Walnut trees –- obtained from a nearby stretch of the original Bardessono homestead that was cleared to make way for residential development. The wood is used in everything from custom-designed bedside tables and guest room desks to flooring, dining room tables, and exterior siding.

Proof of the Bardessono’s commitment to sustainability can be seen throughout the property: The atypical flat rooftops house photovoltaic solar collectors, which provide about 20 percent of the hotel’s energy supply. Low emissivity glass in guest rooms let in a generous amount of natural light, cutting the dependency on daytime lighting. Low water flow fixtures and dual flush toilets are the norm and all of the hotel’s bed linens, towels and robes are made with organic cotton.

“As a pioneer of this effort in the hospitality industry, maintaining a sustainable environment within our operations has not only been necessary but a constant source of inspiration to our team, and even our guests,” says Levitt. “[We want to] give back in every way we can.”

Click through the gallery above to see other ways Bardessono makes sustainability a top priority.

Do you know a local hospitality business that is leading the eco-friendly charge in Wine Country? Let us know.

Could Climate Change Mean an End to Cabernet in Napa Valley? This Winemaker Thinks So

Cabernet Sauvignon is king in Napa Valley. 51 percent of the area’s 46,000 acres of wine grapes are devoted to the varietal. Chardonnay grapes, which come in on number two, occupy just over 6000 acres, and while more than 30 other wine grape varieties are grown here, none of them come with the kind of bragging rights that the coveted “cab” does. 

But as secure as the reign of Cabernet Sauvignon may seem, some think we shouldn’t take it for granted.

“I think you’d be foolish to believe Napa Valley is going to look exactly like this 30 years from now. I don’t think Sonoma is going to look like Sonoma 30 years from now,” says Dan Petroski, winemaker at Larkmead Vineyards in Calistoga.

Petroski, along with other Napa Valley winemakers, thinks climate change  — rising temperatures, droughts, extreme weather — might dramatically alter the local winegrowing landscape. To prepare for such a scenario, he is now looking at grapes from warmer regions around the world and thinking about how they might be implemented in Napa Valley 20 to 30 years from now.

To get a better idea, he’s about to start experimenting with some of these warmer-climate grapes in Larkmead’s vineyards. The Calistoga winery is currently dedicating three acres out of their 110-acre estate to a “viticultural research block.” The experimental vineyard will initially be planted with seven red grape varieties and one white.

“My number one objective for these seven red grape varieties is that they have the ability to blend well with Cabernet, as a supporting actor until Cabernet can’t be used anymore,” says Petroski. “We’re trying to get a head start on this whole process. I don’t want 2040 to roll around and we’re sitting on our heels going ‘alright, what are we going to plant now, when it’s too hot for Cabernet?’”

The three-acre plot will be planted in the late spring or early summer of 2020 with Chenin Blanc, Petite Sirah and Zinfandel, alongside varieties such as Aglianico, Tempranillo, Touriga Nacional, Charbono and Syrah.

But planting, growing, harvesting, aging, bottling, and finally seeing what customers think of the wines will take time.

Expected to last 21 years, the project will be divided into three phases — the upcoming planting is part of the first phase. Every seven years, Petroski hopes to find one or two grape varieties that will do well at the winery.

Founded in 1895, Larkmead will celebrate its 125th anniversary in 2020. This isn’t the first time the winery has been involved in viticultural research. In the 1940s, a Cabernet Sauvignon clone commonly known as the “Oakville selection” was developed here by UC Davis viticulturist Dr. Harold Olmo.

A newly installed walkway leads the way to the winery’s research block. It’s a path Petroski hopes will encourage conversations with visitors about the future.

“It’s hard to tell people Cabernet is going to die. It’s hard to say it’s over because it’s still our lifeblood. It’s the beating heart of what we do and we do it really well,” says Petroski. “Some of the best wines in the world are made here in the Napa Valley, so it’s hard to have that conversation. But I think the other side of that conversation is that we’re forward-thinking. We are evaluating, we’re looking to the future.”

10 Best Things to Do in Napa

From outstanding wineries and restaurants to inns surrounded by vineyards, Napa Valley is a dream destination for those in search of good food, good wine and a good time. The city of Napa, located in the southern end of the valley, has undergone a transformation in recent years, attracting celebrity chefs like Charlie Palmer, a slew of colorful tasting rooms that stay open late as well as interesting art projects. Click through the gallery to discover how to spend 24 perfect hours in Napa.

Lingering Stress After the Fires? This Sonoma-Made App Might Help

Thick smoke from the Kincade fire obscures the setting sun as seen from the Middletown side of the Mayacamas Mountains, Friday, Oct. 25, 2019. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)

To recover from a wildfire takes time and involves demanding tasks for those affected: calls to insurance companies, clean up of debris, finding a new place to live, rebuilding a home, and resuming regular routines with work or studies, among many other things.

One task that often fails to make the long list of things to do, however, is taking care of your mental health. But according to experts on trauma and post-traumatic stress disorder (PTSD) this is an important aspect of wildfire recovery.

Healdsburg resident Dr. Adrienne Heinz, a clinical and research psychologist specializing in trauma and PTSD, says surveys indicate that one-quarter of wildfire survivors develop PTSD symptoms while one-third experience depression and anxiety. Left untreated, these conditions can have a detrimental effect on a person’s social life and wellbeing.

“What we know from [studying] people post 9/11 and other disasters is that, if you don’t give folks the resources they need to bounce back, the recovery can be fraught with struggles: loss of relationships and jobs, substance abuse disorders and mental health struggles … the list goes on,” she says.

Heinz is part of a team that developed mental health resources for local residents following the 2017 North Bay fires, including the mobile app Sonoma Rises. Intended for users ages “13 to 113,” it gives access to a variety of treatment options to suit different preferences and needs, including trauma-informed yoga, self-help tools such as breathing techniques and meditation, as well as individual and group therapy.

“We felt like an app was the perfect medium because people are on their phones all the time anyway,” Heinz explains, adding that those reluctant to see a therapist in person (therapy is the recommended treatment for PTSD) might be more inclined to interact with mental health professionals through an app.

In the wake of last year’s Kincade fire, the amount of Sonoma Rises users has increased. Many lost homes, part of their school, or were otherwise displaced by the October 2017 fires and have reported high levels of anxiety, including feeling “keyed up” and “re-triggered,” following this recent event.

Heinz’s co-researcher, psychologist Dr. Shannon Wiltsey-Stirman, explains that previous trauma makes a person more susceptible to develop post-traumatic stress disorder. While many wildfire survivors will initially experience symptoms such as mentally replaying the trauma, avoiding situations that recall an aspect of the event, becoming irritable or hypervigilant about safety, lingering symptoms may be a sign that a person is developing PTSD.

Lack of timely and adequate care following a traumatic experience like a wildfire can also increase the risk of developing PTSD.

Petaluma therapist Marty Schwebel, who works as a volunteer chaplain for the Petaluma Police Department, says he believes we don’t have proper rituals in our society to process grief, and that he has noticed many delay getting treatment until the “adrenaline” of recovery tasks wear off.

Schwebel believes trauma-informed yoga can be helpful. “The body keeps the score,” he says, citing the title of the 2014 bestselling book by Boston-based psychiatrist Bessel Van der Kolk.

Van der Kolk’s main premise in his book is that trauma is remembered in the body — it physically “reshapes both body and brain — and that treatments, like yoga, can help people who’ve experienced trauma by bringing more awareness to their bodies, thoughts and emotions.

Research supports Van der Kolk’s theory: Using a combination of traditional therapy techniques and alternative treatments such as EMDR (Eye Movement Desensitization and Reprocessing) and yoga can help alleviate stress and anxiety induced by traumatic events.

By increasing accesses to these kinds of evidence-based treatments, as well as other no-cost mental health services, Heinz and the team behind the Sonoma Rises app hope they will be able to continue provide support to those affected by wildfires in Sonoma County and beyond (the team is keeping their work “open access” so that other communities can use and customize the app).

“If this is to be our new normal,” says Heinz, “we have to prioritize our mental well-being. Without that other things in life start to erode.”

Download the Sonoma Rises app for iPhone here and for android here. Visit mysonomastrong.com for more information and support. More free mental health resources available here

Where to Try 2020’s Biggest Food and Drink Trends in Sonoma County

What will we be eating in 2020? Food fanatics can’t help but love this time of year when we prognosticate exactly what trends may be coming (and going) in the next 12 months.

As usual, it’s a mixed bag of conflicting ideas:

Nuts are the new dairy, but alternative nut butters are raging.

Middle Eastern foods are on the rise, but fried chicken is still big.

You’ll be puckering up with lots of sour flavors, but sweet desserts are upping their game with “adult” versions of ice cream sundaes.

The good news is that 2020 will bring increased attention to issues like climate change, zero waste, livable wages in the hospitality industry, healthy-eating alternatives and a move away from old-school processed foods.

Click through the gallery for some of our favorite upcoming trends you’ll be seeing here in Sonoma County.

Fried Chicken With A Side Of History at Pat’s International in Guerneville

Korean fried chicken sandwich at Pat’s International in Guerneville. Heather Irwin/PD
Korean fried chicken sandwich at Pat’s International in Guerneville. Heather Irwin/PD

For nearly 80 years, Pat’s Cafe quietly persisted in downtown Guerneville. With a focus on breakfast and lunch, meals were hearty workaday diner standards with family-friendly prices and fisherman-friendly hours. And for three generations under the ownership of the same family, not much changed.

Time meandered by like the nearby Russian River as salmon runs came and went. Floods came and went. Lazy Bear weekends, summer resort-goers and Sisters of Perpetual Indulgence came and went.

Then came David Blomster and his Korean Fried Crack (aka Korean Fried Chicken) and everything changed.

Huevos Rancheros at Pat’s International in Guerneville. Heather Irwin/PD
Huevos Rancheros at Pat’s International in Guerneville. Heather Irwin/PD

Over the last six years, Blomster was behind an evening pop-up at Pat’s that featured Asian-inspired dishes with California flair. It’s messy, saucy, cram-it-in-your-face kind of food, with his sweet-savory fried chicken as the star.
Now, Blomster is heading the whole Pat’s show, taking ownership of the restaurant, removing the old bar, creating a new menu and changing the name to Pat’s International to better reflect the gentle mash-up of cuisines he’s featuring.

You can sit at the retro-cool counter with round diner seats or pad into the dining room with wall-to-wall green carpeting and wooden picnic tables. Napkins, silverware, and jam are already on the table.

Though you can certainly stumble into Pat’s with blinders on, it’s the journey into the town’s history and Blomster’s quirky design sensibility that’s a huge part of the appeal.

Interior of Pat's International. Photo: Caitlin McCaffrey
Interior of Pat’s International. Photo: Caitlin McCaffrey

To take anything at Pat’s at face value is to miss everything. Every surface tells a story, from the mottled “pecky cypress” wood on the walls to the geometric plastic ceiling tiles that are actually an art installation by artist Jim Isermann to a meticulously detailed 1950s Russian River map made by Bill Schaadt, considered one of the world’s greatest fly fishermen.

Everything at Pat’s comes with a side of history. Or fried chicken. Your choice.

Best Bets
The KFC Sandwich, $10: The classic fried chicken sando comes with slightly spicy sweet and savory sauce, vanilla slaw, aioli, and a brioche bun. Skip the chicken and get a fried KFT, made with tofu.

Mac and Crack, $17.50: You can go with the plain mac, made with cheddar, Gruyere and Parmesan cheese, but why not sex it up a little and throw some Korean Fried Chicken on top? If you can eat the whole bowl, I salute you and your powerful appetite.

Ham and eggs Benedict with Mornay sauce at Pat’s International in Guerneville. Heather Irwin/PD
Ham and eggs Benedict with Mornay sauce at Pat’s International in Guerneville. Heather Irwin/PD

Ham Benedict, $15: Why hasn’t everyone thought to make eggs benny with cheesy Mornay sauce instead of Hollandaise? Details. Truly a triumph of yum.

Huevos Rancheros, $14: The classic made with layers of crispy tortilla, black beans, a thick disc of scrambled eggs, salsa and sour cream.

Chicken Pozole, $16: A heaping helping of mild green chili and shredded chicken soup with hominy. Guaranteed to cure your winter blues.

Opening day at Pat's Cafe in Guerneville in 1940. Sonoma County Library Digital Collections
Opening day at Pat’s Cafe in Guerneville in 1940. Sonoma County Library Digital Collections

Also check out: Tofu scramble, biscuits and gravy, hot cakes and syrup, a grass-fed burger, a vegan soba noodle bowl, “Catch of the Day” fish and chips or the Reuben.

Currently serving breakfast and lunch daily from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Dinner will return in the spring. 16236 Main St., Guerneville, 707-604-4007, patsinternational.com.

The Most-Read Sonoma Magazine Stories of 2019

Acme Burger at Acme Burger in Cotati. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)

When we review the readership of our articles, one thing becomes apparent: our readers like to eat and drink. From the best burgers in Sonoma County to favorite kid-friendly wineries, food and wine continue to be incredibly popular topics. But the most-read article of the year had nothing to do with dining. Click through the above gallery to see our top stories of 2019.

Find a Portal to New York City at Santa Rosa Art Exhibit

How do you capture the essence of a multi-faceted place like New York?

Photographer Helen Levitt took her camera to the city’s poorer neighborhoods. In one of her best-known photographs, shot in 1945, four East Harlem girls watch soap bubbles drift across a desolate street. It’s a fleeting moment. While the ephemeral bubbles float, there is the everlasting hope and magic of New York, the city where everything seems possible.

Documentary filmmaker D.A. Pennebaker, in his 1953 “Daybreak Express,” revealed mid-century Manhattan through a rush of images from a Third Avenue train. Propelled by the rhythm of Duke Ellington’s music, Pennebaker’s six minute short explores the large, unfathomable city by going small, capturing its everyday details and rapidly-passing scenes to find authenticity and beauty.

In this century, artists continue their quest to capture the pulse of New York.

Some of the most creative renderings of the city’s people and pockets are the original artworks — satirical, poignant and whimsical — on the cover of its iconic publication, The New Yorker, first published in 1925.

To attain the cover of The New Yorker is a mighty achievement for an illustrator and one that Marcellus Hall, a New York resident for 25 years, has accomplished five times. His work also has appeared in The Wall Street Journal, The Atlantic and Time. A selection of his artwork — sketches, drawings and watercolors — is currently being shown and sold at Sonoma Academy’s art gallery in Santa Rosa (Jan. 7 – Jan. 30).

Hall’s illustrations, like Levitt’s bubbles and Pennebaker’s “Daybreak Express,” offer glimpses of ordinary people going about their lives in New York City: crowds at a park on a summer’s day, young people sipping wine at an art gallery, ice skaters at Rockefeller Center, a homeless couple asleep on the street. His subjects, diverse as the city itself, share one thing: they hold their smartphones tight.

While cellphones have changed the ways in which people interact in public since the days of Levitt and Pennebaker (American photographer Joel Meyerowitz said they “killed the sexiness of the street”), Hall continues to be drawn to the more human aspects of the urban experience.

“I think the flux of the personal and universal that exists in cities is what attracts me,” the illustrator said. “Each person embodies a thousand stories. Sometimes I marvel at the millions of faces in New York and I’m desperate to chronicle or preserve them on paper.”

It’s no coincidence then that Hall’s exhibition at Sonoma Academy feels like a collection of vignettes — if not a thousand or a million, then enough to transport you across the continent.

Arrayed on the gallery’s walls, black and white sketches depict everyday scenes on street corners and subways, in restaurants, parks and pedestrian underpasses. Two recent New Yorker covers show a modern Lower East Side and a humorous take on the urban fascination with bicycles. A series of watercolors conjure artistic renderings of Bill Cunningham’s fashion photography.

On a table in the gallery, you’ll find still another portal to New York: a copy of Hall’s recently published graphic novel “Kaleidoscope City.”

“I wanted to get down on paper something poetic that might capture the beauty and pace of my New York experience,” Hall said about his book. “I’ve never felt comfortable with the panel structure of comics, so I employed the Japanese concept of yohaku no bi (the aesthetics of empty space).”

By using a poetically-concise prose style, combined with etching-like minimalist illustrations, “Kaleidoscope City” takes the reader on a journey through the metropolis. The graphic novel’s protagonist, a young artist, wanders the streets of New York carrying only a broken heart and a sketchbook. He finds inspiration in unexpected places and tells his story through a series of postcards depicting “far-flung neighborhoods … fleeting glimpses of a mysterious woman.”

An excerpt reads, “When I first moved to the city I was intoxicated with possibility … the blank page, the unseen future, the unwritten chapters and the endless possibility of chance encounters that presented itself in the shifting river of faces on every street corner. For years, the desire to get it all down on paper nagged at me, this life and all the serendipitous, beautiful things about it … The Fourth of July fireworks reflecting on the river … The horse head on Market Street … That beautiful Friday night feeling. That mix of hopefulness and expectation that comes when you’re rushing off to somewhere. The streets are electric with energy and your heart is beating with the promise of a perfect night … and romance.”

Writer E.B. White likened New York to a poem “whose magic is comprehensible to millions but whose full meaning will always remain elusive.”

While it may be impossible to capture the essence of a city whose only fixed quality is its constant metamorphosis, the exhibition at Sonoma Academy shows that sometimes it takes only an image, or a short sequence of them, to transport the viewer through time and space to the heart of New York City.

Marcellus Hall at Sonoma Academy, Jan. 7-30, 2020, Mon – Fri, 8 a.m. – 4 p.m., 2500 Farmers Ln, Santa Rosa. Free (sign in at the school reception). Show curated by Hillary Younglove. Follow Marcellus Hall on Instagram, @marcellus_hall

Upcoming Shows at Sonoma Academy

Feb 1-Feb 27: Susan Stover, susanstover.com.
Feb 28-March 29: Hayley Samantha Jensen, hayleysamanthajensen.com.
May/June: Hillary Younglove: “Passages.” hillaryyounglove.com.

sonomaacademy.org