Sonoma Valley Winery Puts on ‘Pruning Party’ in February

It’s that most classic of winter Wine Country scenes: A team of fieldworkers moving slowly through a vineyard, pruning away last year’s growth to renew vines for the coming season. At Sonoma Valley’s historic Beltane Ranch, you can feel a part of the crew for a day, sharp clippers and all, at the ranch’s annual pruning party. “Pruning is such an essential part of what we do that it shouldn’t be that big of a deal to share it,” says Beltane’s Lauren Benward Krause, the fifth generation in her family to work this land (her two young sons are the sixth).

And yet, it is a big deal. It’s a different way of experiencing Wine Country, a chance to be immersed in the outdoors and learn about the cultivation of the vines. Your pruning instructors? Members of Beltane’s vineyard crew as well as high-schoolers from the local Future Farmers of America, who take guests under their wing to teach the basics of bud counts and how to make the perfect angled cut. Guest pruners and their teachers form teams to race through the rows, with winners scoring bottles of Beltane wines made from the vines just worked.

Beltane Ranch Pruning Party. (Courtesy photos)

The rest of the day is top-notch fun too, rain or shine: pulled pork tacos, mariachi music, a huge bonfire to warm chilly hands, and tables set right in between the vineyard rows with hay-bale benches and clusters of bright yellow mustard blossoms in tin cans. It’s one of the best days of the year for Krause and her crew. “It’s such a rich, heart-and-soul-of-Sonoma thing. Making wine takes the hands of many, and there’s so much to love and appreciate.”

Beltane Ranch’s fifth annual pruning party is Feb. 23 from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. The cost is $150, which includes lunch, wine, pruning instruction, and equipment. Purchase tickets in advance at beltaneranch.com.

Try Your Hand at Letterpress Printing at This Sebastopol Shop

When poet Katie Nealon really wants to convey something from the heart, she doesn’t turn to a keyboard or a pen. Rather, she reaches for metal blocks of type. “You are literally holding the words in your hand. There’s more weight to it,” she says.

Nealon is president of Sebastopol’s North Bay Letterpress Arts, a thriving local co-op of writers and artists who rely on the ancient art of transferring words and images to paper as expressions of their work. The nonprofit organization, founded in 2015, has a 1,600-square-foot shop in Sebastopol where members have access to nine presses and over 200 cases of type. The association also offers public and private classes. Nealon’s work includes self-published books of poetry and greeting cards, and she recently reprinted copies of the “Sonoma Strong” cards she originally produced after the 2017 fires.

Katie Nealon letterpress printed her interpretation of the #sonomastrong sentiment following the 2017 North Bay Fires using antique lead type and hand-carved linoleum blocks on 5×7 cardstock.

Healdsburg artist Pauline Minser worked through the grief of losing a close friend by printing a book featuring a favorite poem. She also makes her own fanciful cards for holidays. “Why pay for a Hallmark card when we can make our own, using quality artist papers?” she says. With letterpress, blocks of ink-stained metal type are arranged in rows and then pushed down onto paper. The process is time-consuming, physically demanding, and sometimes frustrating.

But letterpress shops are proliferating, inviting new devotees to pick up where Johannes Gutenberg left off and put a personal stamp on Valentine’s Day cards, wedding invitations, business cards, and other printed material. Nealon, a graphic artist professionally, said she could more easily design her art on a computer. But that doesn’t get to the heart of the matter. “It’s in our blood,” she says of working the press.

North Bay Letterpress Arts, 925-D Gravenstein Highway S., Sebastopol. Public workshops in the art of hand-set type and hand-and foot-powered presses are offered several times a month. northbayletterpressarts.org.

This Petaluma Bar Wants You to Put Down Your Cellphone and Talk to People

Ernie’s Tin Bar on Lakeville Highway in Petaluma. (Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine)

It’s cold outside and the rain is coming down. But inside Ernie’s Tin Bar near Petaluma, a stove fire brings warmth to patrons unwinding after the workday. Since 1923, this corrugated shack on Lakeville Highway has offered respite from the bustling world outside its door. That’s especially true in winter, when the glow of string lights and a neon “Speakeasy” sign in the fogged window beckon commuters to stop and wait out traffic jams along the notoriously dangerous road. The dress code ranges from boots and polished loafers to pressed suits and work uniforms.

“Some people are coming in after wine tasting. Some are coming in after working on a job site,” Seth Bodek, a 45-year-old construction worker from San Francisco, said while sipping a rare Fuchshof cider from Germany. To the surprise of many who stop here, Ernie’s has one of the North Bay’s most satisfying and eclectic beer and cider selections on tap, including Pliny the Younger. The insanely popular, hop-heavy winter release arrives in kegs from Russian River Brewing Company in early February. At the other end of the hoppy spectrum, Ernie’s customers can down a Hamm’s for $1.75 a can.

Bartender and owner Ernie Altenreuther pours drinks for his regular customers at Ernie's Tin Bar in Petaluma on Wednesday, July 31, 2013. (Conner Jay/The Press Democrat)
Bartender and owner Ernie Altenreuther pours drinks for his regular customers at Ernie’s Tin Bar in Petaluma. (Conner Jay)
8/3/2013: T1: PC: An overflow crowd sits in garage in the back of Ernie's Tin Bar in Petaluma on Thursday, July 18, 2013. (Conner Jay/The Press Democrat)
An overflow crowd sits in garage in the back of Ernie’s Tin Bar in Petaluma. (Conner Jay)

Snack on all the shelled peanuts you want, but keep your cellphone tucked away. The bar’s owners frown upon their use. “People talk, and if you sit down, you’re going to end up in a conversation with somebody,” said third-generation proprietor Ernie Altenreuther, a married father of three who lives on the family ranch just up the road.

Imbibe a little too much? Ernie’s offers free rides to customers living within a 16-mile radius of the establishment. On winter nights, that’s the kind of service that truly warms the soul.

Ernie’s Tin Bar, 5100 Lakeville Highway, Petaluma, 707-762-2075. For free shuttle Friday-Sunday, 3 to 10 p.m., call 707-478-0586.

Sonoma County Chefs Share Favorite Feel-Good Recipes

Dalia Martinez And her medicinal pesto and we will give the baserecipe as well as multiple uses for it. At flour + bone

The new year is a time to embark on new behaviors and encourage healthier habits. These four Sonoma chefs work to eliminate processed foods, emphasizing clean eating and cooking with whole ingredients.

They shrug off labels such as vegan or omnivore in favor of a more holistic approach that’s plantforward but not strictly vegetarian, reminding us that our food choices affect not only our bodies, but our community and planet.

Adrian and Susan Olvera of El Huerto in Sonoma. (Chris Hardy)
Adrian and Susan Olvera of El Huerto in Sonoma. (Chris Hardy)

Susan & Adrian Olvera, El Huerto, Sonoma

Husband and wife Susan and Adrian Olvera of El Huerto (“the orchard”) have created a welcoming, plant-based superfood bar of smoothies, freshly pressed juices, bowls, salads, and toasts at their sweet Sonoma storefront. “We want our food to be transparent, as honest as possible,” says Susan.

Adrian’s ingredient choices are influenced by his Mexican father, a farmer who carried a deep sense of connection to the land, while Susan, who was raised in Marin, learned to season and prep ingredients by watching her mom take on catering work.

The couple finds motivation in their two young children, who they say help them make more compassionate choices in their everyday lives. (A drive past a cattle farm on a family road trip provoked a discussion of farming and animal welfare with their son.) At home, Susan, who has a gluten allergy, cooks a lot of Guatemalan dishes, incorporating the flavors of cumin, mint, and pumpkin seeds. They say when they eat more vegetables, they feel less heavy after meals and aren’t nearly as tired. And Susan loves that their kids reach for chickpeas, cucumbers, and carrots first and — hooray — even limit their own sweets at parties.

Their next step? In the new year, they hope to open a food truck to take their healthy salads and bowls on the road, particularly to students at local colleges.

El Huerto, 19213 Sonoma Highway, inside the Maxwell Village Shopping Center. 707-934-8791.

Adrian and Susan Olvera of El Huerto of Sonoma
El Huerto’s Shredded Vegetable Salad with Avocado-Lime Dressing. (Chris Hardy)
El Huerto’s Shredded Vegetable Salad with Avocado-Lime Dressing

This bright salad is texturally more like a slaw and a great option for the winter months. Top with feta or cotija cheese and a hard-boiled egg for a heartier meal. Use any extra dressing on salads or as a dip or sandwich spread. Because of the lime, it will keep its bright green color refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 5 days.

Avocado-Lime Dressing

• 1 large avocado

• 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

• Juice of 1 lime

• ¼ cup hemp seeds

• ¾ teaspoon granulated garlic

• ½ teaspoon Himalayan pink salt

• Pinch dried dill

Salad

• 2 cups shredded mixed kale, Brussels sprouts, and carrots

• ½ cucumber, cut into ½-inch pieces

• 3 radishes, cut into quarters

• 1 tablespoon pumpkin seeds

Combine all of the dressing ingredients in a small food processor or high-powered blender, blending until smooth. It’ll be thick — add water a little at a time to loosen slightly if needed. Season to taste with granulated garlic, salt, and dill.

Combine the mixed vegetables, cucumber, radish, and pepitas.

Spoon on a generous dollop of the dressing and toss to coat.

Serves one.

Dalia Martinez And her medicinal pesto and we will give the baserecipe as well as multiple uses for it. At flour + bone
Dalia Martinez of  flower + bone beauty in Santa Rosa. (Chris Hardy)

Dalia Martinez, Flower + Bone Beauty, Santa Rosa

Although cooking runs in the family, Santa Rosa native Dalia Martinez never thought she would cook for a living. A student of theater and cinema, she has an insatiable appetite for philosophy, political science, and global politics, coupled with an adoration of fashion and trends.

Extensive travel in Mexico, Europe, and Asia introduced her to “clean flavors” and taught her to taste. “When you have a passion for taste you will do anything to recreate it,” she says. It is that passion that strengthened her skills, first as a student cooking for friends, then as part of off-the-grid guerrilla dinners in San Francisco. She fed people in shops and warehouses, supported farmers directly, and became a chef on her own path.

Eating directly sourced ingredients, Martinez noticed an improvement to her health and also a different way of looking at beauty, a theme she will explore at flower + bone beauty, the new iteration of flower + bone, opening in early 2020. “To me, beauty is not something that is a goal. It already is,” she says.

“When you are happy, your perspective changes. When you are aware of your emotions, you will be more attracted to the healthier choices that will nourish you.”

flower + bone beauty, 640 Fifth St., Santa Rosa, 707-708-8529, flowerandbonebeauty.com.

Dalia Martinez And her medicinal pesto and we will give the baserecipe as well as multiple uses for it. At flour + bone
Dalia Martinez prepares her Nettle Pesto at flower + bone in Santa Rosa. (Chris Hardy)

Dalia Martinez And her medicinal pesto and we will give the baserecipe as well as multiple uses for it. At flour + bone

Dalia Martinez’s Nettle Pesto

Nettles are the multivitamin of the herbal world, explains Martinez, with benefits for respiratory, hormonal, and digestive health. And unlike other medicinal greens, nettles have a very mild flavor. Whether foraged or from farmers markets, Northern California’s nettles are at their best now after early rains.

Touching raw nettles will make hands itchy, so always wear gloves. The garlic in this recipe can be left out or increased as you like. The hemp seeds, which add a creaminess and piney flavor, can be adjusted or omitted as well. And texturally, adding a bit more olive oil will bring this from a spreadable paste to a looser pesto.

To enjoy, spread on wild fermented bread for an open-faced tartine, topped with grated carrots, sprouts, and herbs. Spoon onto a plate as the base layer of a salad with vegetables layered on top. Or mix with cooked quinoa, raisins, and nuts for a pilaf.

• ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus additional for the pan

• 1 cup finely chopped yellow onion

• Fine sea salt

• 6 ounces wild nettle

• 1 garlic clove, chopped, optional

• ½ cup hemp seeds

Heat a film of olive oil in a cast iron pan over medium-low heat.

Add the onion and a generous pinch of salt. Cook slowly, stirring often, until caramelized, sticky, and a rich golden brown, being careful not to burn, about 30 minutes. Transfer the onions to a food processor or high-powered blender.

Meanwhile, fill a large bowl with water. Working with gloves, separate the nettle leaves from the stems and soak the leaves for 15 minutes to loosen any dirt and remove the sting. Smaller, younger nettle leaves do not need to be separated from the stems if they are tender.

Add a bit more oil to the pan, if needed, and return to the heat.

With gloves, lift the nettle from the water, leaving the grit behind, and cook to wilt. Add to the food processor.

Add the garlic to the food processor and pulse to combine. Add the hemp seeds with 1 teaspoon of salt. While processing, add half of the oil in a steady stream, followed by 1 tablespoon of water. Continue adding oil until smooth. Season to taste with salt.

Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 3 days or cover and freeze in ice cube trays for up to 3 months.

Makes 1 cup of pesto.

Gia Baiocchi and vegan miso bone broth
Gia Baiocchi of The Nectary in Sebastopol in Healdsburg. (Chris Hardy)

Gia Baiocchi, The Nectary, Sebastopol and Healdsburg

Gia Baiocchi is a generous west county community leader, living and teaching by example with her steadfast belief that food is medicine. At The Nectary, she embodies the position that there is community connectedness at all levels and works to convey gratitude toward growers, purveyors, and employees.

Baiocchi looks at the body’s mechanisms as an inner landscape. “It is changing, just like our physical landscape.

There is fire and flood, things die, then there is regrowth. We need to constantly go in there and get reacquainted.” She experienced this tumult and recovery firsthand after last spring’s Barlow floods and this past fall’s evacuations and fires.

About a year ago, Baiocchi reexamined her own diet to get to the root of a serious illness.

The results rocked her beliefs to the core. After following a plant-based program for nearly 30 years, she started consuming bone broth, which put her on the road to recovery (though she still believes in the health and environmental benefits of plant-based eating). “What I learned is we don’t listen to our bodies.

Illness is a healing, empowering opportunity. It is the difference between racing to get better versus gleaning and gaining knowledge from it.”

The Nectary, 6760 McKinley St. #130, Sebastopol, 707-829-2697, and 312 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-473-0677, thenectary.net.

Gia Baiocchi and vegan miso bone broth
Gia Baiocchi prepares her Medicinal Miso Soup. (Chris Hardy)

Gia Baiocchi and vegan miso bone broth

Gia Baiocchi’s Medicinal Miso Soup

Baiocchi acknowledges that the unknown can be intimidating, particularly when adding more plants into your meals or exploring medicinal roots and herbs, but she says the new year is a good time to try on something new. The medicinal herbs and spices in this soup can be locally sourced at Rosemary’s Garden in Sebastopol or through mountainroseherbs.com. The seaweeds and gomasio are found in the Asian foods section of most markets.

• 4 quarts water

• ½ cup peeled, ½-inch chopped fresh ginger

• ½ cup peeled, ½-inch chopped fresh burdock root

• ½ cup dried astragalus root

• 2 tablespoons dried nettle root

• 2 tablespoons dried reishi mushroom

• One 6-inch piece kombu seaweed

• ½ tablespoon fennel seed

• 2 tablespoons dried codonopsis root

• ½ tablespoon ground coriander

• 2 tablespoons goji berries

• 2 tablespoons dried nettle leaf

• 2 tablespoons to ¼ cup coconut amino acids

• 1 to 3 tablespoons miso, preferably a chickpea miso

• Fine sea salt

• Shredded carrot

• Shredded daikon radish

• Thinly sliced nori seaweed

• Thinly sliced dulse seaweed

• Sesame oil or ghee

• Cilantro leaves

• Gomasio or lightly toasted sesame seeds

Bring the water just to a boil in a stock pot, add the ginger, burdock, astragalus root, nettle root, reishi mushroom, kombu, fennel seed, and codonopsis root. Stir to combine, reduce the heat, and simmer for 20 minutes. Strain into a clean pot.

Add the coriander, goji berries, and the nettle leaf. Bring back to a simmer, cover, turn off the heat, and let steep for 15 minutes. Strain again. Stir in 2 tablespoons of the aminos and 1½ tablespoons of miso.

Add additional aminos, miso, and salt to taste. The broth may be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days or covered and frozen for up to 3 months.

For each serving, put 2 tablespoons carrot, 2 tablespoons daikon, 2 teaspoons nori, and 1 teaspoon dulse in a bowl and ladle over 1 cup hot broth. Drizzle with sesame oil and top with cilantro and gomasio.

Makes 3 quarts.

The Hottest Restaurants in Sonoma County Right Now, January 2020

Pulled Pork Tacos, at Picazo Kitchen & Bar, feature home braised puled pork, coleslaw, cilantro, red pickled onions, and is served with baby salad. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)

Once you’ve fallen off the wagon of ridiculous New Year’s promises to lose weight and work out daily, reward yourself with some of these delish dishes from around the North Bay — and the world. From hot wings to hwe dup bap, it’s all about flavor and fun after doubling down on celery and eschewing carbs. You can keep that promise to eat more plant-based dishes on many of these menus that use meat sparingly or not at all, if that’s your 2020 jam. Dine on!

Click through the above gallery for photos.

Joe Trez of Wing Man in Cotati. (Heather Irwin / Sonoma Magazine)
Joe Trez of Wing Man in Cotati. (Heather Irwin)

Wing Man

Chef Joe Trez is not the man you expect to see walking out of the kitchen with a tray of chicken wings and hot sauce. Tall and thin, wearing a tidy Wing Man apron and faded jeans, he personally delivers trays of crispy French fries covered in aioli and Parmesan cheese, ribs, and delicately fried chicken wings to rustic farm tables at his Wing Man headquarters in Cotati.

But it’s a chef coat that’s been his daily uniform for years, rather than an apron. And a food truck rather than a firmly rooted kitchen.

“This is my first casual place,” he says, a little shyly. An alum of Thomas Keller’s Bouchon restaurant in Yountville, his path has been one of carefully composed plates for highend restaurants and wineries in Napa after attending culinary school.

The North Carolina transplant has been a familiar face for several years on the food truck scene, operating throughout Sonoma County and San Francisco in his Wing Man truck. Trez decided to specialize in the humble chicken wing — a staple of lowbrow bars and fast-food joints — because he couldn’t find the kind he craved from home. Most wings in Sonoma County, he says, were premade, frozen, and smothered in Frank’s Hot Sauce.

“I couldn’t find any good wing places, so I decided to start my own,” says Trez.

The truck was a success, and when a restaurant space opened in Cotati, he decided to create a simple family-style place with his signature wings, eight taps, and a lengthy list of beers ranging from $3 PBRs to local ales, stouts, ciders, and hard seltzers. He also has an impressive (but small) hand-picked list of favorite small-producer wines including Quivira Sauvignon Blanc, Iron Horse Wedding Cuvée, and Paul Hobbs Malbec.

“We don’t sell a lot of wine, but I figure if people don’t drink them, I will,” he says.

It’s the wings, however, that are his bread and butter. They are fried in oil; he uses local chicken for his bonein wings. His so-called boneless wings are fingers of chicken breast breaded with panko crumbs.

There are also vegan “wings” of tempura-battered cauliflower that are every bit as delish as the regular wings.

Sauces are truly what set Wing Man apart. Each is made in-house and served on the side so as not to get the wings too soggy (plus, it’s a lot less messy).

Some are more of a dare than others, with Orange Fury topping the list of burn-your-faceoff sauces. Made with Carolina Reaper peppers, the hottest pepper known, you’ll want to make sure you’ve got a stomach lined with steel before embarking too far on that journey. Double Dog Dare You is an extra-hot Buffalo sauce, and Atomic Fireball is for those who simply like a good tongue burn.

More approachable are the more-flavorfulthan- fiery sauces like Spicy Green Goddess (medium-heat jalapeño), or Crazy Uncle Kim, a Korean-style chile sauce that’s only got a hint of heat.

If you’re mild rather than wild, Southern Brother, a Carolina sweet mustard sauce, is especially tasty with boneless chicken wings. There’s also Tokyo Town Teriyaki with soy sauce and a hint of sweetness. House-made ranch sauce is a lovely sunset orange, made with a touch of smoked paprika. Don’t limit yourself to wings alone. Porky’s Revenge is a heckuva sandwich made with root-beer-braised pulled pork, spicy slaw, pickles, and bacon with smoky barbecue sauce ($10). Truffle Parmesan fries are a good way to go if you’re doing the whole fry thing. Just ask for a little extra sauce.

On Fridays, Wing Man has fall-off-the-bone ribs with just the right amount of crispy bark and tender meat inside.

Open Tuesday through Sunday, closed Monday. Lunch and dinner Friday through Sunday. Open 4-10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, noon-10 p.m. Friday through Sunday.

101 E. Cotati Ave, Cotati, 707-794-9464, wingmanfoodtruck.com.

Chili chicken momo at Cumin Restaurant in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin)
Chili chicken momo at Cumin Restaurant in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin)

Cumin

If you’ve ever wondered what the difference is between butter chicken and chicken tikka masala, here’s where you can do a proper head-to-head comparison. We ended up on the side of the slightly more complex butter chicken, but that’s just the beginning of this extensive menu. There are the familiar flavors of palak paneer, aloo gobi, naan, and tandoor along with more exotic outliers such as goat biriyani, lamb curry, and slow-cooked carrot pudding. Don’t leave without trying their Chilli Chicken Momo, little handmade Nepalese dumplings topped with a not-ridiculously-spicy sweet chile sauce. Lamb is also a draw, with tender pieces nestled into a rich brown gravy with peppers and onions. Plenty of vegan and vegetarian options add pizazz to the far-away flavors of Cumin.

170 Farmers Lane, Suite 8, Santa Rosa, 707-771-8336, cuminsantarosa.com.

Third Street Aleworks

After a change in ownership, the menu at this downtown Santa Rosa has gotten a few meatless upgrades. Usually that’s not the kind of thing we go nuts about, but the Aleworks Beyond Burger is worth a mention. The plant-based patty is topped with melted Gouda cheese, pickled onions, a pickled pineapple slice, chutney mayo, and baby spinach between a hearty pretzel bun. We’re still thinking about that tasty non-burger.

610 Third St., Santa Rosa, 707-523-3060, thirdstreetaleworks.com.

Palomita served at Picazo Kitchen & Bar, in Sonoma. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)
Palomita served at Picazo Kitchen & Bar, in Sonoma. (Christopher Chung)

Picazo Kitchen & Bar

Everyone is family at Sonoma’s “modern diner” in the Maxwell Village Shopping Center. Literally.

Kina and Sal Picazo Chavez have taken the reigns at this revamped diner with a menu that extends their burger and comfort food menu from nearby Picazo Cafe — an Arnold Drive institution founded by Sal Chavez Sr. All of the tasty pastries and sauces, crave-worthy burgers, and açai bowls are on the menu, adding to a dinner lineup of hearty, family-inspired recipes like Kina’s mother’s mole, chicken piccata, steak frites, and ramen in the evening.

One of our favorite dishes is the Morning Pizza, made with thinly sliced potatoes, guajillo sauce, bacon, chorizo, mushrooms, onions, and melty mozzarella. You won’t miss the dough, with crispy potatoes serving as the delicious base. The Don Chava Burger, made with both beef and pulled pork, is a can’t-miss.

We love that there are loads of vegetarian and health-conscious options like cauliflower tacos, smoothies, wraps, and salads, should you not want to go the burger-and-fries route.

Overall, great for families with plenty of cozy booths, kid-friendly menu items, and some tasty tipples for Mom and Dad.

19101 Sonoma Highway in Maxwell Village, Sonoma, 707-935-3287, picazokitchen.com.

Kamura Sushi

It worries me to see an explosion of cheap sushi and poke spots popping up around Sonoma County (seriously, there about six) as we face ongoing issues with overfishing and species-devastating drag-netting in our seas. Sustainable fish shouldn’t be cheap. Thing is, we all love sushi and paying $200 for a great plate of fatty tuna and wild salmon also isn’t reasonable.

That’s why I’m impressed with Kamura Sushi, which seems to split the difference between super-high prices and a menu that’s really pleasing to sushi fans. Chef Andy You offers the usual lineup of salmon, tuna, yellowtail, mackerel, and octopus, but there is so much more on this menu to explore.

Thin slices of hamachi (yellowtail) are drizzled with olive oil and ginger-garlic sauce that don’t mask the flavor of the fish. Although I’m not sure what the sliced tomato really adds, a nip of jalapeño gives it a really pleasing finish. The menu doesn’t go on for weeks with everything-but-the-kitchen-sink rolls, but has a healthy variety, along with more traditional Japanese rolls (maki) made with pickled radishes, dried gourd, or cucumber.

The best bet, however, is the Kamura Don, a Korean-style mixed sashimi bowl (hwe dup bap). Raw fish (tuna, salmon, escolar) tops mixed greens and warm brown rice with a side of chojang, a sweet, spicy Korean sauce. It’s super-filling and delish, but with fish as the supporting actor rather than a one-man show. There’s also excellent bulgogi (thinly sliced beef in a soy-ginger sauce), and a terrific tonkotsu ramen made with black-garlic-infused pork broth. Served with all the fixings (soft-boiled egg, bamboo shoots, wood ear mushrooms, nori), you can substitute kale ramen noodles for $2 extra.

3800 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa, 707-526-2652, kamura-sushi.business.site.

Rosen’s 256 North

Someday a book will be written about Jan Rosen’s incredible life, from delivering her famous cheesecake to Frank Sinatra and his Beverly Hills friends to the historic wheeling and dealing that happened at her notable Santa Rosa restaurant, J.M. Rosen (where Jackson’s Bar & Oven now resides).

But until that happens, it’s simply worth saying that her latest venture in Petaluma is worth checking out, not only for the wild mushroom risotto, fried cheesecake, and savory “I’m not sharing a single bite of this” short rib tortellini, but just to get a story or two from Rosen, who is usually working the room when she isn’t chained to the stove.

It wouldn’t be fair to pigeonhole Rosen’s as a tasty throwback kind of restaurant where prime rib, chicken marsala, shrimp cocktails, chicken pot pie, and iceberg wedge salads rule the menu (along with a Rosen-approved lineup of stiff cocktails). There are plenty of more modern takes to keep it current, like a cheesy chicken keto plate, wagyu burger, and fried Brussels sprouts with togarashi.

With so many restaurants feeling the need to put microgreens and a laundry list of exotic ingredients on everything, Rosen offers a comforting mix of old and new, with tried-and-true classics that she has honed into a delightful lineup that just about anyone can appreciate.

256 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-766-0799, 256north.com.

New Restaurants Coming to Sonoma County in 2020

Hamburgers Twisted Horn Ranch Burger, Estero Cafe, $13: 14450 Hwy. 1, Valley Ford, 707-876-3333, facebook.com/esterocafe.

Just when you think Sonoma County can’t possibly get any more delicious, a spate of new restaurants are on the horizon for 2020. Some are just days or weeks away, others we have to wait for until summer or next fall. Click through the gallery for 14 new Sonoma County restaurants to put on your radar this year.

10 Sonoma Finds for Plant Lovers

Nature is so pretty, how can we refrain from hauling it inside? And in cool, ho-hum and newly “un-decked” January, you might find your mood and space in need of a perk-up. Plants are the answer. They’re the ultimate decorating accessory: gorgeous, waste-free and they clean the indoor air. Sonoma County stores are full of plants that can thrive in your space right now—click through the above gallery for details.

Make Your Own Ramen With Products From Sonoma County Stores

Ah, ramen. Beloved, delicious, and obsessed about. Whether you make the pre-packaged version or have your own recipe, “you can always make a better bowl,” says “Let’s Make Ramen!” author Hugh Amano. Here are a few tools for those on a quest to create perfect, flavor-loaded ramen — click through the above gallery for details.

These Sonoma County Bars Make ‘Dry January’ Fun

Sipsong-infused drinks at Duke’s Spirited Cocktails in Healdsburg. In this photo, nonalcoholic cocktails Delicate Flower, Green Business, Sipsong Indira Tea & Tonic, and Hibiscus Sorrel. (Courtesy of Duke’s Spirited Cocktails)

Going dry can be fun! Here’s a holiday-hangover cure: “Dry January.”

Though it sounds Draconian to daily drinkers, the month-long collective abstinence movement is trending as drinkers put down the whiskey, wine and cocktails and “reset” their alcohol intake after a boozy holiday season. But hanging out with friends after work doesn’t have to be a bummer.

(Find more local bars serving up mocktails and non-alcoholic drinks here.)

In fact, a surge of herbal elixirs, shrubs and alcohol-free botanical spirits are giving sobriety a good name by impressing temporary teetotalers with their complex flavors.

Throughout the month, Fern Bar in Sebastopol (6780 Depot St.), which has made a name for creative low- or no-ABV (alcohol by volume) drinks, is celebrating with an extended list of sober cocktails and libations.

On Jan. 30, they’ll host a hands-on free-spirited cocktail class with instructions for infusing non-alcoholic spirits, shrub and spirit-making and mixing a perfect cocktail.

Sipsong Spirits, a locally-made herbal Indira Gin, has released a tea made with juniper, coriander, cumin, bay leaf, sweet orange, star anise and pink peppercorn (among other botanicals) that mimics the perfumed flavor of gin but has no alcohol.

Mix with tonic for a flavorful alternative. Order at sipsongspirits.com or try it at Duke’s Spirited Cocktails in Healdsburg (111 Plaza St.). Duke’s is also offering up some great boozeless drinks, like Jamaican spiced hibiscus tea with ginger beer or grapefruit soda with lemon and yuzu. Pair with their poutine fries, Korean chicken sliders or daily special “Family Meal.”

There’s a New Girl Scout Cookie Flavor and It’s Coming to Sonoma County

Lemon-Ups, a lemon-flavored cookie sporting motivational messages like “I’m a go-getter” or “I am a leader,” are the newest entrant into the Girl Scout cookie program.

The good news for us: Sonoma County will likely be getting them, while the East Coast and other states won’t. The bad news: We haven’t been getting the good “S’mores” cookies covered with chocolate, while Maine has.

The not-so-secret-secret of those adorable Brownies and green-clad girls: There are two different bakeries that make Girl Scout cookies, and not all cookies are alike!

Most of the West is served by Little Brownie Bakers (though California, Nevada New Mexico and parts of Texas are split), so you’ll know that those little peanut butter chocolate cookies are Tagalongs, not Peanut Butter Patties. You’ll know the caramel coconut Samoas vs. their lookalike Caramel deLites made by ABC Bakers, which serves much of the Midwest and East Coast. Don’t get us started on calling Do-si-dos a Peanut Butter Sandwich, as most Georgians and West Virginians know them.

Our suggestion: Maybe it’s time to bring together this great nation rather than dividing us along dessert lines. Let’s start with the chocolate-covered S’mores for everyone and Lemon-Ups for everyone.

Cookie sales start Jan. 25, so watch for booths to start popping up or your neighbor’s daughter to come knocking. Online at gsnorcal.org.