Page 208 – Sonoma Magazine

Recently Opened Healdsburg Farm Retreat Offers Luxe Getaway

November 2020

By Jess Lander

At NewTree Ranch in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of NewTree Ranch)

Editor’s Note: Travel, dining and wine tasting can be complicated right now. Use our inspirational ideas to plan ahead for your next outing, be it this week or next year.

How many times have you gone on vacation only to return home feeling, well, like you needed another vacation?

Finding the time and place to relax is more important than ever. But getting away from it all can prove a challenge—especially right now. Amid coronavirus concerns and restrictions, US travelers are finding new ways to unwind by seeking out getaways that offer “fresh air, bucolic scenery, and ample room for physical distancing,” according to Business Insider. Unique accommodations such as treehouses and airstreams are growing in popularity, along with the latest travel trend: farm stays.

A recently opened property in Healdsburg, NewTree Ranch, is tapping into these travel trends by offering guests a breath of fresh air, plenty of space to roam and an opportunity to connect with the land.

Wellness with a twist

Less than 15 minutes from downtown Healdsburg, yet far away from the crowds, the secluded NewTree Ranch bills itself as a wellness retreat. But, unlike other wellness retreats, which tend to be heavily regimented, it puts the guests in charge of their experience.

If you want to spend your stay working remotely, lounging by the pool, and going for the occasional walk, you can do so. But if you would like a more immersive experience—connecting with nature, unleashing your creativity, unblocking your emotions, or confronting traumas, fears and anxieties—then this can be arranged, too.

The biodynamic farm at NewTree Ranch in Healdsburg. (Jess Lander / Sonoma Magazine)

NewTree Ranch’s particular approach to wellness is based on the idea that, by disconnecting with the outside world and reconnecting with ourselves, we can shift our perspective and achieve a more relaxed state of being. Co-founder and CEO Edward Newell experienced this for himself when he gave up a busy career in the corporate world to start this Healdsburg retreat. He says he used to work constantly, taking more than a dozen flights each month and spending most night in hotels, working until he went to bed.

“Now I’m relaxed all the time,” said Newell, noting how he used to seek out something like a massage in order to unwind. “Relaxed is a state of being, but we grow up thinking it’s something to be provided externally,” he added.

A ranch of one’s own

Another aspect that makes NewTree Ranch stand out from other retreats is the amount of privacy it provides to its guests. There’s only one guest accommodation on the property—The Ranch Estate, which sleeps 8. If you book a stay (minimum stay is four nights), you’ll have the 120-acre property all to yourself—sharing space only with the owners and the staff, plus a few animals. All of this comes at a price, of course: $4000 per night for the ranch estate.

The ranch estate has four bedrooms and bathrooms, a large living room with fireplace, a spacious kitchen, a formal dining room, and numerous light-filled nooks to relax in, including an outdoor lounge area with a fire pit, dining table and a solar-heated pool. Guests also have access to a glamping safari tent, complete with a hot tub on the deck.

Cellphone service is spotty at the ranch and while the estate does have wifi, this is the only place where guests can get a good signal. Newell mentioned that a few guests have requested to have the internet turned off from Saturday to Sunday noon. “People love that,” he said, “(they) really notice how they connect more (with each other) in those 24 hours.”

A cold plunge

NewTree Ranch offers an array of wellness experiences—some included, some for an additional cost.

It’s up to each guest to tailor their stay according to their own interest, and comfort level. Some visitors might play things simple—collecting eggs from the lively chicken coop, taking a plant-based cooking class, or spending time with the two Scottish Highlander cows, Kathy and Eddie, a spirited donkey named Fuzzy, and other animals that reside on the ranch. Others might dive deeper, booking experiences such as the “lakeside sound journey” with Tibetan singing bowls, or challenge themselves by spending an afternoon learning breathing techniques—part of what’s called the Wim Hof Method—before taking a dip in a bathtub filled with ice water.

The lakeside sound journey experience at NewTree Ranch in Healdsburg. (Jess Lander / Sonoma Magazine)

Ice bath for Wim Hof Experience at NewTree Ranch in Healdsburg. (Jess Lander / Sonoma Magazine)

Each experience at NewTree Ranch is intended to provide a fresh perspective and healing to the participant. The sound journey, for example, aims to “align and restore energy fields, and release tension or stress,” while the Wim Hof experience allows participants to “reconnect with the body’s inner wisdom.” The Wim Hof Method instructor at NewTree Ranch, Chuck McGee, says that the ice bath part of the experience is intended to train the body to better handle stress, pain and difficult circumstances.

While the idea of being submerged in ice water may seem extreme and anxiety inducing, Wim Hof—a Dutch extreme athlete—has attracted millions of followers worldwide, who swear his method has cured everything from depression to diabetes.

Farm-to-table for real

Newell, who lives on the ranch, wants to show people where their food is coming from and guests can expect the real-deal farm-to-table experience.

The plant-based culinary program at NewTree Ranch is led by chef Matteo Silverman, who sources ingredients for his dishes from the onsite biodynamic farm. Guests pay extra for these meals and can choose from a variety of board options ranging from $50 to $110 per person, per day.

Radish ravioli and quinoa sushi at NewTree Ranch in Healdsburg. (Jess Lander / Sonoma Magazine)

Veggie pizza at NewTree Ranch in Healdsburg. (Jess Lander / Sonoma Magazine)

The menu at NewTree Ranch changes with the seasons. On a recent visit, dishes included welcome crudités with creamy eggplant baba ganoush and dried apples with walnut butter; whole spelt pizza topped with shishitocini (shishito peppers pickled like pepperoncini) and fresh-picked veggies for dinner; pink ravioli made from two slices of watermelon radish stuffed with thyme-scented cashew cheese and topped with a Thai basil puree; and chia seed pudding or a savory autumn vegetable frittata for breakfast. Most meals are paired with fresh juices, like honeydew and melon, watermelon lime agua fresca, or a verbena cucumber refresher.

If guests would prefer to cook their own meals, they can do so in the ranch house’s expansive kitchen, making use of fresh ingredients from the farm or bringing their own produce.

3600 Wallace Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-9643, newtreeranch.com

5 Eco-Friendly Sonoma Wineries You Should Know

November 2020

By Linda Murphy

Outdoor tasting at Anaba Wines in Sonoma. (Courtesy of Anaba Wines)

Sonoma wineries increasingly employ environmentally ethical practices to their businesses, not only to produce better wines but to take care of the land for future generations, lower carbon footprints, preserve natural habitats, reduce or eliminate the use of harmful herbicides and pesticides and sustain agricultural businesses for the long term.

There are many ways wineries and growers approach the challenge and many organizations and certification boards that give their blessings to “green” wine making and grape growing. In 2014, Sonoma County Winegrowers committed to becoming the most sustainable winegrowing region in the world. The organization claims that 99% of the vineyard acreage in the county now has been certified sustainable by a third-party program.

But “sustainable” is subjective, not just in Sonoma, but throughout the world. In its broadest definition, it means an entity has developed practices that are environmentally friendly, socially responsible and economically viable. Organic farming enters the sustainability picture by specifically banning the use of synthetic pesticides and herbicides in agriculture. Biodynamic farming has been called “organics on steroids,” with the addition of natural compost applications, farm-animal waste used as fertilizers and even planting by the lunar cycle.

Benziger Family Winery in Glen Ellen has been the leader in Sonoma County biodynamic farming for two decades, encouraging a healthy ecosystem. Santa Rosa’s Kendall-Jackson, one of California’s largest wine producers, is a winner of the California Green Medal Leader Award for its many sustainability programs. Silver Oak Alexander Valley earned global recognition in 2017 for its Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) Platinum status, making it the first commercial winery in the world to attain the green-building program’s highest recognition for new construction.

But these aren’t the only Sonoma wineries making big moves to do the right thing for the land, vines, wines, employees and neighbors. Here are five others to know and visit now. Note that their coronavirus-related protocols require appointment-only visits, outdoor service and masks worn except when seated.

Anaba Wines

In 2009, this Sonoma Valley winery became the first in Northern California to use wind to help power operations. Owner John T. Sweazey installed a 45-foot Skystream wind turbine on the Carneros property, allowing the anabatic winds from San Pablo Bay and the Pacific Ocean turn the turbine’s rotors and produce electricity. An electric car charging station was added in 2015, for use by tasting room guests and staff, and solar panels are being installed. “By the end of 2020, we plan to be producing more power than we use, between wind and solar sources," Anaba Brand Manager Molly Lomenzo said.

Sweazey’s son, John Michael, now runs the winery, and Katy Wilson is the winemaker. Burgundian and Rhone Valley varieties are the focus here: chardonnays, pinot noirs, viogniers and syrahs that are elegant, refined and energetic. Grapes from the estate J McK Vineyard are joined by fruit from vineyards such as Bismark, Dutton Ranch, Landa, Sangiacomo Roberts Road and Wildcat Mountain, giving Wilson diversity and depth in her winemaking options.

Anaba’s new Vintners House tasting room is open 10:30 a.m. – 5 p.m. Thursday – Monday.

62 Bonneau Road, Sonoma, 707-346-5207, anabawines.com

In 2009, Anaba Wines became the first winery in Northern California to utilize wind to help power operations. (Los Heffernans Photography)

Nalle Winery

Forty-some years ago, Doug and Lee Nalle wanted a cave for the Dry Creek Valley winery they were building on land owned by Lee’s family, the Henderlongs, since the 1920s. The property was planted to zinfandel, and many of the vines remain today. But the site wasn’t conducive to digging a wine cave, so the Nalles did the next best thing — they covered their ground-level, Quonset hut-style winery with dirt 3 to 6 feet thick, planted 300 rosemary plants to keep the soil in place and voila, they had an above-ground cave which kept a constant cool temperature without using any energy.

As a bonus, the rosemary blooms invited busy bees — and still do — which assist in the pollination of non-grape plants (grapevines are self-pollinating) that add nitrogen and nutrients to the soil. Bees also protect beneficial insects from the destructive ones.

From the start, the Nalles stuck to their mantra of making zinfandels that were balanced and fresh-tasting, with the grape’s signature intense berry/cherry fruit character, yet without high alcohol and sweetness. Now the couple’s son, Andrew Nalle, and his wife, April, handle the winemaking and viticulture while upholding the original Nalle style. Their Estate Old Vine Zinfandel comes from the dry-farmed (no irrigation), head-trained vines. The Dry Creek Valley Classic Zinfandel is a blend of estate and neighboring vines. Both clock in at just 13.9% alcohol.

Over time, the Nalle family added sauvignon blanc, sparkling chardonnay, pinot noir and cabernet sauvignon to their lineup, all in small quantities and available only at the winery and a handful of restaurants. Taste these beauties and some history at the oddball, ahead-of-its-time eco-friendly winery, open 10 a.m. – 4 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

2383 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-1040, nallewinery.com

Outdoor tasting at Nalle Winery in Healdsburg. (Heidi Adler)

Quivira Vineyards

Organic farming is but one of many ecologically sound steps this Dry Creek Valley winery takes in the production of its wines. Winemaker Hugh Chappelle has a gift for producing vibrant sauvignon blanc — as many as four different bottlings in a given vintage — and rousing zinfandels. Grenache and other Rhone Valley varietals are other specialties.

On the ranch, composting of winery pomace (leftover grape skins and seeds) and estate livestock manure adds nutrients to the soils, as do cover crops in the gardens and vineyards. Creeks and riparian corridors that run through the property enhance diversity; ongoing restoration of Wine Creek allows coho salmon and steelhead trout to thrive during spawning season. All vineyard preparation materials are grown on the estate. Nine breeds of chickens, fed from the garden waste, produce eggs, and beehives encourage pollination of produce grown in the raised garden beds and elsewhere on the property. A solar electric system has supplied more than half of Quivira’s energy needs since 2005, a prescient move that is increasingly being replicated by other wineries.

Olive oils and jams made from estate-grown berries, peaches and Meyer lemons are sold in the tasting room, open 11 a.m. – 4 p.m. Thursday – Monday. The Classic Tasting includes five wines; the Estate Tasting offers six wines, served with charcuterie and other bites.

4900 West Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-395-3929, quivirawine.com

Ridge Lytton Springs

Old-vine zinfandel is the raison d’être at Ridge Lytton Springs, the Sonoma outpost of Ridge Vineyards in the Santa Cruz Mountains — maker of one of the world’s most respected cabernet sauvignons, Ridge Monte Bello.

The zins from Ridge Lytton Springs — more than a dozen of them from grapes grown throughout the state but weighted toward Alexander, Dry Creek and Sonoma valleys — are equally admired. They are remarkably balanced, without an alcoholic fruit bomb among them, and have a reputation for aging beautifully. John Olney makes the wines at Ridge’s eco-sustainable winery on Lytton Springs Road, located between Healdsburg and Geyserville.

The facility is built of straw bales and vineyard clay and is primarily solar-powered. Ridge is the largest grower of organically certified grapes in Sonoma County, and all the vineyards it farms are certified sustainable by Fish Friendly Farming. Composted pomace and neighbors’ horse manure are added to the vineyards. Cover crops are grown in each block, insectories are maintained, sensors indicate when to irrigate vines in order to save water and gray water from the property is recycled and can be used for irrigation. Bird boxes and raptor roosts encourage the presence of flying bug and rodent eaters.

In addition, Ridge lists on its labels all ingredients used in the production of each wine. On the label for the 2018 Pagani Ranch Sonoma Valley Zinfandel: “Hand-harvested grapes, indigenous yeast, naturally occurring malolactic bacteria, oak from barrel aging, SO2.” And nothing else.

Taste single-vineyard, zinfandel-based wines such as Geyserville, Lytton Springs and Pagani at the Outdoor Terrace tasting, 11 a.m. – 4 p.m. Thursday – Monday. It’s a seated experience that might also include petite sirah, carignane, mataro (mourvedre) and if one is lucky, a Ridge cabernet sauvignon.

650 Lytton Springs Road, Healdsburg, 408-867-3233, ridgewine.com/visit/lytton-springs

Truett-Hurst/VML Winery

Paul Dolan, who sparked Fetzer Vineyards’ massive move to organically farmed grapevines starting two decades ago, retired from the Mendocino County company in 2004 and embarked on several wine-based projects, among them Truett-Hurst in Sonoma’s Dry Creek Valley. The estate, certified for both its organic and biodynamic farming practices, ticks all the sustainability boxes for what a winery can do to care for its vines and environment.

At Truett-Hurst, biodynamic farming includes organic practices and treats the farm as a self-contained and self-sustaining organism capable of creating and maintaining its own vitality. Hedgerows and other plants create safe homes for beneficial bugs that prey on those that damage grapevines and other plants. Compost, made onsite from pomace and cow manure, adds fertility to the soils. Crimson clover, purple vetch, bell beans, peas and oats are grown in the vineyard rows; they pull carbon from the air and send it through the plants’ roots into the ground and feed grazing goats and sheep during the dormant season. Their droppings become nutrient-rich fertilizer.

According to Dolan, Truett-Hurst also works with government agencies to restore the portion of Dry Creek that flows through the estate.

Winemaker Ross Reedy bottles an array of wines, including sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, pinot noir, zinfandel, merlot and cabernet sauvignon. He also guides winemaking for sister brand VML, which excels in sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and pinot noir. Both brands are poured at the tasting room, which is open 10 a.m. – 4 p.m. daily for by-the-glass and bottle sales (no tastings). Picnicking is encouraged, with the purchase of wine.

5610 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-9545, truetthurstwinery.com

Owners of Single Thread Restaurant Purchase Noci Farm in Healdsburg

November 2020

By Heather Irwin

Chef de cuisine Aaron Koseba harvests purple frill mustard greens from the rooftop garden at SingleThread Farms Restaurant in Healdsburg. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Kyle and Katina Connaughton of the Michelin-starred Single Thread in Healdsburg have purchased a 24-acre farm in the Dry Creek Valley with their business partner, Tony Greenberg, and Bill Price of Price Family Vineyards & Estates. The price tag: $3.72 million — something of a steal considering that the farm was originally listed at $5.5 million.

The farm site was previously home to Noci Sonoma, a luxe agricultural space with fairytale gardens, a state-of-the-art test kitchen and lounge and a membership model that drew city dwellers seeking an idyllic escape. Noci Sonoma had some early success but the owners, Chris and Aria Alpert Adjanis, struggled with permitting for large-scale events and, after recent fires and the pandemic, decided to put the property up for auction.

The Connaughtons, who currently manage a 5-acre farm in Healdsburg from which they source ingredients for Single Thread, have quietly been planning an expanded farm, gardens and educational space focused on sustainable agriculture and biodiversity. They are calling their recently purchased land their “forever home.”

“I have long had a vision to create a shared space in support of vibrant ecology on our forever home, and for that land to serve not only an agricultural purpose but a community and educational purpose as well,” Katina Connaughton said.

Katina Connaughton at her Healdsburg farm. (John Troxell)

During the pandemic and wildfires, the Connaughtons have worked closely with Price to support local nonprofits and agencies, such as the Council on Aging, Corazon Healdsburg, Farm to Pantry and Sonoma Family Meal, who are feeding residents in need. All three envision the new farm as more than just a source of produce for Single Thread. (Editor’s note: Heather Irwin is the founder of Sonoma Family Meal.)

“I want to help them (the Connaughtons) realize their larger vision of being agricultural stewards of Sonoma County and provide them with this ability and space to grow beyond what their needs are at Single Thread,” Price said.

Katina Connaughton hopes to also add a workshop component, floral design and retail sales along with mushroom production to the new farm.

“My farming team and I are excited to share our knowledge of regenerative agricultural practices with other farmers, especially new farmers starting their careers,” she said. “We envision a learning space for those who want to deepen their relationship with their food system and strengthen their craft.”

You can see a video of the property and pictures of the buildings and kitchen at 2836drycreekrd.com.

Santa Rosa Restaurant with Sushi-Go Round Opens

November 2020

By Heather Irwin

The latest from Sonoma County’s dining scene:

Ippinn Sushi

Great news! Santa Rosa finally has a sushi-go round. The bad news? You can’t actually use it or the race-car sushi track until indoor seating is allowed again. However, you can order some impressive “utility” sushi from this newcomer in the Santa Rosa Junior College neighborhood. By “utility,” I mean Wednesday afternoon California rolls, veggie tempura and tonkatsu ramen with a girlfriend rather than Friday night, once-in-a-blue-moon break-the-bank sushi with Daiginjo sake. In my world, both are equally important. Ippinn Sushi is a sister restaurant to the nearby Ippin Udon. 1985 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-800-7699, ippinnsushi.com.

Mateo’s Cocina Latina

It’s been years since I’ve whiled away an afternoon drinking margaritas in Healdsburg. OK, maybe weeks, but it’s worth checking out Mateo’s back patio for fresh fruit margaritas and luxe dishes including pork belly with a honey serrano glaze ($11.75) or a high-end nacho platter with duck, fresh tostadas, shredded jack cheese, seasonal salsa and house-cured jalapeños. Chef Mateo Granados uses lots of locally sourced ingredients, and his Yucatan-inspired dishes raise the bar on Mexican cuisine in Sonoma County. 214 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-433-1520, mateoscocinalatina.com.

Grata Restaurant Serves Up Family-Friendly Classics in Windsor

November 2020

By Heather Irwin

Gnudi with butternut squash and sage at Grata Restaurant in Windsor. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

We drank wine. We gossiped. We shared dishes. We watched the sun set. We ate way too much. And most importantly, we laughed and laughed and laughed.

That’s exactly the idea behind Grata just off the Windsor Town Square. With a large outdoor patio, chef-owners Eric and Christina Foster wanted a festive local gathering spot with family-friendly, approachable Italian classics and a convivial atmosphere. Done and done.

A longtime chef for Stark Reality Restaurants group, Eric Foster is no stranger to bustling, high-volume restaurants and knows how to get out orders quickly and efficiently with minimal staff, something most first-time restaurateurs struggle to master. Foster also knows plenty about creating bold flavors, like his meaty sea scallops with sweet-sour apple agrodolce and chive sweet potatoes.

At Grata, you can go simple by sticking to hearty appetizers like the creamy Grata Burrata ($12) with a smear of preserved lemon honey, pesto, teardrop peppers and grilled bread or crispy arancini with marinara sauce ($11). Or you can dive into comfort carbs that include smoked salmon carbonara ($22) and a hearty risotto with Parmesan stock and grilled maitake mushrooms ($19). If you’re feeling extra hungry, Grata’s change up seasonally, including wine-braised beef short rib ($28) with creamy polenta and halibut piccata with lemon and white wine ($24).

Our three favorite dishes, however, were Shawnees Shrimp Diavolo ($24), Ricotta Gnudi ($19) and the ridiculously decadent Ricotta Zeppoli ($9).

Unlike most spicy shrimp dishes, this diavolo isn’t as much about heat as it is about full-flavored marinated shrimp with a deep flavor of tart tomato conserva and olive oil atop spaghetti noodles.

Ricotta gnudi ($19, and yes, it’s pronounced “nudie”) could be a wallflower of a dish, but in Foster’s hands it becomes the belle of the ball with brown butter-soaked ricotta dumplings, seasonal butternut squash, hazelnuts and basil. It’s definitely worth going back for, along with the warm ricotta donut holes served with a Nutella chocolate dip so delicious you’ll wish you were a kid again just so you could lick the bowl.

Grata’s lunch menu features many of the same appetizers as dinner, along with oysters, a chicken Parmesan sandwich and the ridiculously delicious-sounding PBLT, a pork belly, butter lettuce, tomato and Calabrian chili aioli sandwich ($13).

Lunch and dinner, 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Thursday through Monday. 186 Windsor River Road, Windsor, 707-620-0508, gratawindsor.com.

Sonoma’s Artefact Design and Salvage Reopens in Pop-Up Shop

November 2020

By Karen Kizer

It was sad news for Sonoma shoppers when Artefact Design and Salvage permanently closed their storefront in August after 17 years at Cornerstone Sonoma. The store housed a unique collection of new, salvaged, rare, exquisite and weird design items. Where would we now find decorative blobs of glass and gnarled tree branches to hang on a wall, or a giant chair made from teak root?

But in late October, Artefact proprietor and curator, David Allen, announced on social media that a new store was popping up. The business opened a week later on Sonoma’s Fremont Avenue.

On display at this new more intimate space are Allen’s patented ARTEFACTcurator Wall Mounts — wall panels studded with brass screws that can hold decorative pieces like branches, flowers, vases and framed art. Wool blankets from Spain, cork purses, air plants and staghorn ferns are also available.

Allen’s new pop-up store should not disappoint those in search of the big, bold and eccentric. The entrance is flanked with terracotta heads of Bacchus and Maenad, which were previously perched on the roof of the Vanderbuilt Hotel in New York City. The heads were removed from the hotel due to safety concerns, and Allen saw to it that they made their way across the country. Outside the store, a yard houses oversized pieces like the decorative top of a massive column and a giant limestone seal from Philadelphia. Allen travels the US by truck in search of rare finds—Pennsylvania has become one of his favorite places for old architectural pieces that become available during demolitions.

If you’re not in the market for giant finds, there’s lots of little things to love at the Artefact pop-up store, and gifts items will be making an appearance before the holidays.

Speaking of holidays, it will be interesting to see what will become of the three hundred plastic snowmen that Allen would arrange in creative formations at Cornerstone Sonoma each year. Judging by the surprise element in his design and curation choices, we’re guessing (hoping) Allen will drop more zany decorative fun.

Artefact Design and Salvage, 27 Fremont Drive, Sonoma, 707-933-0660, artefactdesignsalvage.com, Open Wednesday through Sunday 12 p.m. – 6 p.m.

7 Cozy Holiday Gifts from The Barlow

November 2020

By Karen Kizer

Inflatable ghosts and pumpkins have just been packed away, which, pre-pandemic, would signal it’s time to think turkey and gatherings. But since medical advice is to keep gatherings virtual or very small this year, now could be a good time to focus on early holiday shopping instead. By starting your holiday shopping early, you’ll have more time to ship gifts to family and friends and local businesses will appreciate an early kick-off to the holidays.

The Barlow in Sebastopol offers a range of options for the savvy holiday shopper. The former apple cannery now houses workshop and retail spaces where talented makers produce and sell their unique wares. Visitors to The Barlow can also enjoy drinks and bites from tasting rooms and restaurants. If you prefer to shop online, that can be done, too.

Click through the above gallery for some locally-made or designed gifts we found at The Barlow that are so cozy and “so Sonoma.”

This Lavender Farm in Sonoma County Is The Feel-Good Outing You Need

November 2020

By Karen Kizer

Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat A bee collects nectar from a flower at Monte-Bellaria di California in Sebastopol. The farm’s lavender honey was made into a Gravenstein Honey Cider for the Gravenstein Apple Fair.

If you’re feeling a little frazzled, reaching for a sachet of lavender might be a good idea, according to science. A study published in 2018 found that sniffing linalool, an alcohol component of lavender odor, had a similar effect to popping a Valium. But stressful times may sometimes require stronger remedies. We found one in Sonoma’s West County.

Monte-Bellaria, a nine-acre farm in Sebastopol, offers visitors an opportunity to breathe fresh fall air and soothing lavender — replacing sniffing sachets with a more immersive experience. “Monte Bellaria” means “mountain of beautiful air” in Italian and the bucolic hillside property lives up to its name. Even as the lavender fields shift in color from purple to brown in fall, the landscape remains beautiful and fragrant.

“When we trim back for the fall, the essential oil is very present,” said Dr. Bill MacElroy, founder of Monte-Bellaria.

MacElroy, a statistician and former product development lecturer at UC Berkeley, MIT, Penn State, University of San Francisco and Notre Dame, experimented with different types of lavender before settling on the fragrant and hardy Grosso variety that makes up most of the property’s 35,000 plants. He was recently awarded a silver medal by the international judging association Lavender Sommelier.

After the lavender is harvested between July and the first rains, MacElroy gets to work distilling and infusing the essential oil into products which are sold until supplies run out. The farm also cultivates olives and does beekeeping — its products make for perfect holiday gifts. The Monte-Bellaria moisturizing balm, for example, combines beeswax, olive oil and lavender. Hydrosols offer a sweet spritz of lavender to linens and laundered clothing. The farm’s olive oils are grassy and peppery, and the lavender-infused honey has fantastic flavor and consistency. An added bonus: the shopping experience is far more blissful than a visit to the mall.

Resident beekeeper Eric Sias manages the Monte-Bellaria fields and leads farm tours and gives informative workshops. In a recent class on propagation, he talked about the idiosyncrasies of Grosso lavender, saying it’s the kind of plant you should “forget to water and then overwater.”

Testing, measuring and tweaking for improvement is a central part of the process at Monte-Bellaria. The farm recently troubleshooted an erosion problem by creating a drainage system that routes rainwater down the hill and into a creek that runs under the property’s footbridge and into the forest. Combining a scientific approach with creativity seems to be the secret to the farm’s success — that, and the beauty of the property.

Open weekends 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., Monte-Bellaria di California, 3518 Bloomfield Rd, Sebastopol, 707-829-2645, monte-bellaria.com

Love in the Time of Pandemic: Local Wedding Venues Pivot to Micro-Ceremonies and Livestreams

October 2020

By Grace Yarrow

Vintners Inn in Santa Rosa is offering outdoor weddings for small, intimate weddings. (Vintners Inn)

As most brides and grooms will attest, planning a wedding can be quite a stressful endeavor. That’s perhaps even more true with the current restrictions on gatherings during the coronavirus pandemic.

“We have five different plans,” said Samantha Sasser, who anticipates tying the knot in July of 2021. “We just really adjusted our expectations.”

Sasser and her fiancé, of Rohnert Park, are just one of many couples whose plans have been affected by the pandemic. State and local health guidelines allow for weddings to continue for now but with detailed cleaning and social distancing protocols that must be implemented.

The state of California currently doesn’t allow wedding receptions or parties, only ceremonies. Sonoma County has determined that indoor venues can only operate at 25% capacity or 100 people, whichever is fewer, and that outdoor venues must have six feet of distance between people, which limits guest lists.

Rescheduling weddings

Emily Hax, of the venue Green Acres Petaluma, is doing her best to accommodate couples whose weddings were canceled in 2020 by scheduling them for 2021.

Hax said although Green Acres has plenty of outdoor space, she has decided to limit capacity for weddings in 2021.

While Hax said it’s hard to make these adjustments, especially as she’s losing income for the venue, she thinks it’s worth it in the long run.

“We’re doing this for the greater good. We’re trying to stop it (COVID-19) so we can go back to normal, faster,” Hax said. “Not only do you have the parents and the couple to be wed, but all the vendors that come, you have to count those people as well. It’s a little tricky and it’s pretty devastating for these couples.”

Like Green Acres, many wedding venues in Sonoma County are playing things by ear for the coming months and for 2021, while some are finding new ways to host couples and their immediate families.

Micro-weddings and livestreams

The Luther Burbank Center (LBC) in Santa Rosa normally hosts hundreds of wedding guests in its multiple indoor and outdoor venues every year. Adjusting to the coronavirus pandemic, the music center is now taking advantage of its newly renovated plaza, which is “perfect” for COVID-safe “micro-weddings,” according to Sari Feinstein, programming manager for LBC.

“With the changes and our complete new direction with COVID-19, we have been really grateful to our community and our partners that have all gotten creative and sat around a table — a virtual table — and discussed how we can still be that community gathering place, how we can bring joy in a time that really needs it,” Feinstein said.

The center, which now has a wedding guest limit of 12 people, including the couple, has partnered with staging professionals and videographers who can help couples film their weddings for livestreams on Facebook, Zoom and other platforms.

Other outdoor venues, like the Vintners Resort in Santa Rosa, are taking advantage of their extra space by separating family groups and separating dining tables by six feet. Still, wedding staples like dancing and gathering in groups are prohibited at these venues, and guests need to wear face masks unless they’re eating or seated at a distance.

The Kenwood Inn, in the Sonoma Valley, is solely offering their “Elopement package,” which includes a wedding planner, officiant and space for up to six people.

“We have done several of these since … restrictions have been in place, and they have worked quite well,” said Sharon Rooney, director of public relations for the inn.

These micro-weddings and intimate ceremonies are gaining popularity. While the trend started as a response to pandemic restrictions, many couples and families have found ease and comfort in these simpler, low-pressure weddings.

While the future of weddings remains uncertain, Sasser said she’s prepared to be flexible while planning her 2021 ceremony at Vine Hill House in Sebastopol.

“With all of our vendors, we’ve been asking, ‘What’s your cancellation policy? Can we get a full refund?’” Sasser said. “They’ve all been really great and really flexible with offering postponements if needed.”

Vote, Then Eat Like Your Favorite Candidate

October 2020

By Heather Irwin

What will the candidates eat on election night? Chances are it will be pasta, burgers and ice cream for dessert if Biden or Trump have their way.

With plenty of fast food, carbs and comfort classics on their go-to lists, Joe Biden and Donald Trump Jr. are pretty proud of their down-to-earth cravings. Both have been criticized for their predilection for junk food and honestly, from most published reports about their favorite meals, no one is going to accuse anyone on the campaign trail of being a gourmand — with the exception of Kamala Harris, the lone foodie (and cook) in the group.

We thought it would be fun to imagine what the candidates would eat in Sonoma County and to suggest dishes you can pick up to celebrate/console yourself in honor of Trump or Biden winning on Tuesday night. In the meantime, you can grab an elephant or donkey election cookie at Costeaux French Bakery (417 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, costeaux.com) to show support for your favorite party (or eat the head off the one you don’t like).

Interesting fact: Trump and Biden are both tee-totalers, eschewing booze of any kind. Both are fans of Diet Coke. Harris loves a good glass of wine, which makes sense considering her home state is California. Pence, apparently, isn’t much of a drinker and enjoys the occasional non-alcoholic O’Douls beer.

Of course, we all love a good burger, and no one can refuse pizza and ice cream. We’re more alike than different, and good food is something we all can agree on!

All dishes are available for pickup. None of the restaurants listed here have endorsed any candidate; this is purely for fun. The list is in alphabetical order.

Vice President Joe Biden

Vice President Biden is a huge ice cream fan. (Photo: Shutterstock. Illustration, Heather Irwin)

Biden has repeatedly told reporters his favorite food is pasta, especially with red sauce. Our first choice is Campo Fina’s homemade pappardelle pasta with Liberty duck ragu, truffle bugger, leeks, sage and roasted winter squash (330 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, campofina.com). But we also love a good Bolognese meat sauce at Ca’Bianca (835 Second St., Santa Rosa, cabianca.com). Wanna go old school? Art’s Place (563 Rohnert Park Expressway, Rohnert Park, artsplacerp.weebly.com) is the home of the famous Pasta King marinara and pesto.

Ice cream is Biden’s guiltiest pleasure. He once posed for the cameras with a tasty DQ Blizzard. But why not go plant-based? The nondairy chocolate shake at Amy’s Drive Thru (58 Golf Course Dr. W, Rohnert Park) is twice as good with half the guilt. Another sweet-tooth satisfier is the creamy vanilla bean small-batch pint from Noble Folk (Santa Rosa and Healdsburg, thenoblefolk.com). Other best bets for the Democratic contender? All-American caramelized apple pie from Two Dog Night Creamery (Sebastopol and Windsor, twodognightcreamery.com) or peanut butter chip from Fru-Ta (multiple locations in Sonoma County, fru-ta.com).

Senator Kamala Harris

Kamala Harris likes fries, pasta and burritos. Shutterstock photo illustration. — Kamala Harris likes fries, pasta and burritos. (Shutterstock photo illustration)

VP candidate Kamala Harris seems to be the cook in the group. She says she loves to make a good roast chicken, with beans and even French fries in duck fat (how very Californian), among other things.

Roast chicken is so boring. We think “Aunt Kamy” would go wild for Blue Ridge Kitchen’s Drunken Fried Chicken with truffle mac and cheese, bacon collard greens, Kentucky hot butter and apple honey, just to shake things up (6770 McKinley St., Sebastopol, brkitchen.com). Harris has strong feelings about a tuna melt sandwich and too much mayo, but Mac’s Deli (630 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, macsdeliandcafe.com) does it so right with a side of Kamala’s fave side dish, fries. Take it up a notch with duck fat fries with whipped ranch at Wit & Wisdom Tavern (1325 Broadway, Sonoma, witandwisdomsonoma.com).

For Kamala’s burrito habit, we’re picking Lepe’s (4323 Montgomery Drive, Santa Rosa, lepestaqueria.com) Surf and Turf with shrimp, carne asada and all the trimmings.

Vice President Pence

Pence is another simple eater. He loves popcorn, bacon and ice cream.

Mike’s not much of a drinker, but who can resist a little Bloody Mary-flavored popcorn from Comet Corn (cometcorn.com)? For pizza, keep it old school with a simple pepperoni pie from Homerun Pizza (484 Larkfield Center, Santa Rosa, homerunpizzalarkfield.com).

Pence is an avowed bacon man, and we think a tasty California twist on the BLT, the BLAT (with avocado and sourdough bread) might be a nice energy boost while visiting the Sonoma County Airport’s Sky Lounge (2200 Airport Blvd., Santa Rosa, santarosaskylounge.com).

President Donald J. Trump

President Trump loves well-done steaks and fast food. (Shutterstock photo. Illustration Heather Irwin)

Don’t ask the Prez if he’s a sushi fan, because the answer is a resounding no. Instead, Trump prefers his food well-cooked. He’s a fan of fast-food giants like KFC, McDonald’s, Burger King and Chik-fil-A. Here are a few local alternatives we think he might like!

The McDonald’s Filet-O-Fish is Trump’s go-to, but you haven’t had a fish sando until you’ve had the Crispy Cod Sandwich with rémoulade on a soft roll at Seafood & Eat. We think Donald might also go for a little butterscotch pudding for dessert, because who doesn’t like pudding (9238 Old Redwood Highway, Windsor)?

Make sandwiches great again with a fried chicken sandwich at Brewster’s Beer Garden with — wait for it — goat cheddar and aioli. But come on, it has bacon, too!

Or he could try steak at Valette. Snake River Farms’ beautifully marbled meat should never be cooked well-done, but hey, if that’s what Trump wants, at least it’s a darn good overcooked steak.

Whopper or Big Mac alternative: If it’s a drive-thru with a burger wrapped in paper, then In-N-Out is our choice, though Five Guys gets ’em nice and charred. We’d prefer to send him to Mike’s at the Crossroads (7667 Old Redwood Hwy, Cotati, mikesatthecrossroads.com) or Superburger (multiple locations, originalsuperburger.com), but if we’re doing a burger to remember, it has to be the California Smash Burger at Pizzando (301 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, pizzandohealdsburg.com).

And finally, chocolate cake. There’s no comparison to Sax’s Joint’s chocolate cake with caramel icing, fudge and Rolos. It’s decadent almost to a fault, but nothing this good could ever be faulted (317 Petaluma Blvd. South, Petaluma, saxsjoint.com).