Opening Date Announced for Healdsburg’s Little Saint

By Heather Irwin
A selection of small plates from Little Saint in Healdsburg. (Emma K Creative)

April 22 will be the opening day for Little Saint, the hotly anticipated restaurant, bar, cafe, mercantile and creative space collaboration between Single Thread’s Kyle and Katina Connaughton, philanthropist Jeff Ubben, animal activist Laurie Ubben and designer Ken Fulk.

The 10,000-square-foot space (formerly Healdsburg SHED) has been transformed into a plant-based food mecca that will highlight ingredients from the Connaughtons’ Single Thread Farm and the Little Saint Farm. The Connaughtons’ management arm, Vertice Hospitality Management, will operate the food and wine components of the space under General Manager Akeel Shah, most recently of Single Thread.

Chef de Cuisine Bryan Oliver will lead the kitchen, offering the cafe’s casual takeaway food, bento boxes and grain bowls from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.

The Little Saint Restaurant and Bar will sell more upscale fare and will be open for lunch, dinner and weekend brunch.

Sample dishes from the restaurant menu include potato and green garlic soup with lovage and caraway oil, mokum carrots and shaved red cabbage with crunchy rice and cauliflower biryani with dried rose petals.

A bar menu from Matthew Seigel will follow the same plant-based idea with both spirits-based and nonalcoholic drinks.

Chef Baruch Ellsworth will head the pastry program, with sweet morning treats and vegan desserts including a chocolate torte with hazelnut praline and miso caramel or carrot cake with walnuts and vanilla.

The wine shop, under director Alexandria Sarovich, will include a selection of wines from sustainable winemakers throughout the world.

Little Provisions mercantile will be open daily for the purchase of fresh farm produce and flowers, snacks, coffee, teas and books.

There will be 72 seats in the downstairs restaurant with 16 seats at the bar. The second-floor lounge, when it opens in June, will have cocktails and a limited menu. A number of tables will be held back throughout the night to encourage walk-ins, and the bar will be on a first-come, first-served basis.

“We are so excited to be opening Little Saint at long last! Little Saint is here as much for the local residents as it is for the visitors to Sonoma Wine Country,” Chef Kyle Connaughton said.

“We live here, farm here and are part of the community of amazing winemakers, farmers and artisans. We really wanted to reflect that and create exciting offerings for our local community and at the same time share with the visitors how special this place that we call home is.”

25 North St., Healdsburg, littlesainthealdsburg.com

Napa Valley Wine Train Launches Afternoon Tea Service

By Dana Rebmann

It’s time for tea on the Napa Valley Wine Train.

Starting April 1, passengers will be able to enjoy afternoon tea every weekend in April and May during a scenic three-hour journey through Wine Country. In addition to fancy finger sandwiches, guests will be invited to splurge on caviar and there will also be wine, of course.

On select dates, including April 24, May 29 and June 26, passengers are encouraged to don their finest attire for the afternoon tea services as part of the Wine Train’s “Dressed to the Nines on the Lines“series.

Click through the above gallery for more details, plus suggestions on where you can enjoy afternoon tea in Sonoma and Napa counties.

Where to Taste Rhone Varietal Wines in Sonoma County

By Sarah Doyle

Native to the Rhone Valley of Southern France, Rhone grapes were introduced to California during the mid-19th century and likely arrived in Sonoma County around the 1880s. Today, these grapes are known as Rhone varieties and the wines produced from them are called Rhone-varietal wines.

There are 22 Rhone varieties in France (or 24, depending on who you ask), with 14 now grown in the United States thanks to the extensive work of wineries like Tablas Creek in Paso Robles. You may be familiar with syrah, grenache and viognier, but there are so many more to explore.

Produced in a kaleidoscope of colors, textures and characters, with verve that can seamlessly surpass other wines, Rhone varietal wines can offer a refreshing change of pace for wine drinkers seeking something new. Check out these recommendations for some of the best places to sample Rhone wines in Sonoma County.

Frick Winery

Perched among the wildflowers on a hillside overlooking Dry Creek Valley, Frick Winery’s tiny tasting room is an intimate gem among its grander neighbors, with just enough space for four guests at a time.

Winemaker and proprietor Bill Frick has been making Rhone varietal wines since 1976. Today, he continues that legacy as a soft-spoken, one-man show, acting as winemaker, vineyard manager, harvester, barrel washer and tasting room host all rolled into one.

A highlight of Frick Winery is its estate-grown, single-varietal expressions of carignane, mourvèdre, viognier and cinsaut — the latter which is produced from 65-year-old vines that live on the 7.7-acre property surrounding the tasting room. Frick’s blends are also outstanding. Tastings are free (it’s true). Open 11 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Saturday and Sunday, with the addition of Fridays in late spring; reservations required.

23072 Walling Road, Geyserville, 707-484-3950, frickwinestore.com

Quivira Vineyards & Winery

Dry Creek Valley and France’s southern Rhone Valley have similar terroir, and nowhere is that more evident than at Quivira Vineyards & Winery.

Here, in the outskirts of Healdsburg, the warm to hot days and cool nights are highly conducive to growing Rhone varieties like grenache, which Quivira began planting over 20 years ago. With great emphasis on biodiversity, land preservation and renewable energy, the winery produces numerous Rhone varietal wines, including a luscious rousanne viognier blend from its biodynamic, organic vineyards.

A visit here is a true retreat, especially during spring and summer when the vibrant garden is in full bloom. Tastings from $30. Open 10:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., Thursday to Monday; reservations required.

4900 West Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-431-8333, quivirawine.com

Two Shepherds

“Winemaking is an art, not a science,” said William Allen, winemaker and proprietor of Windsor’s Two Shepherds winery, where he produces small-lot Rhone varietal wines with minimal intervention.

What started as a garagiste hobby in 2010 has bloomed into a 3,200-case endeavor, with a focus on unusual grapes sourced from cool-climate or old-vine vineyards. Native yeast fermentation, neutral oak and minimal sulfur are integral to Allen’s winemaking process, which he performs on about 15 petite lots per year. Needless to say, this makes for an intriguing, educational tasting experience in his small warehouse tasting room.

Don’t miss the newly released 2019 Carignan, which hails from 75-year-old, dry-farmed vines. Tastings from $20, waived with one bottle per person purchase. Open noon to 5 p.m. Thursday to Saturday.

7763 Bell Road, Windsor, 415-613-5731, twoshepherds.com

Jeff Cohn Cellars

Think you know GSM? Think again at Jeff Cohn Cellars in Healdsburg Plaza, where the classic southern Rhone trio of grenache, syrah and mourvèdre has been transformed into a Tavel-inspired (a southern Rhone Valley winegrowing region) brut rosé that is buoyant with bubbles.

With a deep passion for the wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Jeff Cohn (the former winemaker at Rosenblum Cellars) has been making Rhone varietal wines since 2006, which he sells alongside his “Rhone-centric zinfandel.” Syrahs are a big focus here (there are four available), along with mourvèdre, grenache and other Rhone varieties sourced from rocky, mineral-driven vineyards.

Wine tastings at Jeff Cohn Cellars start with red wines and end with whites, which shines a well-deserved spotlight on Cohn’s single-varietal marsanne, viognier and grenache blanc rousanne blend. Tastings from $30. Open 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Friday to Sunday; reservations recommended.

34 North St., Healdsburg, 707-938-8343, jeffcohncellars.com

Bedrock Wine Co.

There are few places in California where you can taste wines produced from some of the oldest, most historic vineyards in the state. That’s the intrigue of a visit to Bedrock Wine Company in Sonoma, where winemaker and owner Morgan Twain-Peterson produces character-driven wines from vines that are more than 100 years old.

While he never planned on opening a tasting room, Twain-Peterson changed his mind once General Joseph Hooker’s historic 1852 home came up for rent in Sonoma Plaza. Twain-Peterson owned Hooker’s 150-year-old vineyard, so serving wines from the general’s vineyards under the roof of his former home was kismet.

Today, you can sample Bedrock’s deeply structured carignane, mourvèdre, zinfandel and other varieties from Hooker’s 132-year-old vines, along with syrah, petite sirah and heritage blends from historic vineyards throughout California. Tastings from $30. Open 10:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Thursday to Sunday; reservations required.

General Joseph Hooker House, 414 First St. East, Sonoma, 707-343-1478, bedrockwineco.com

Pax Wines

Thanks to the mindful hands of winemakers like Pax Mahle, syrah from California finally found its groove.

Evolving past the powerful, commanding style that once gained him notoriety, Mahle now focuses on leaner, more nuanced expressions of the northern Rhone varietal. With fruit sourced from cool-climate vineyards as far north as the Mendocino coast, he makes wine using native yeast fermentation and minimal intervention.

In his laid-back Sebastopol Barlow tasting room, you can sample Mahle’s stellar lineup of syrahs, grenache mourvèdre rosé, chenin blanc and more. Local cheese plates and charcuterie are also available, as well as live music from 4:30 to 6:30 p.m. every Friday. Tastings from $25. Open 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

6780 McKinley St., Sebastopol. 707-331-1393, paxmahlewines.com

Where to Get Late-Night Fried Chicken in Sonoma County

By Heather Irwin
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Sonoma County isn’t exactly known for its late-night culinary scene, especially when it comes to the affordable, gut-filling food favored by second-shift restaurant and hospitality staff looking for a greasy, spicy nosh after work.

Two Chicago foodies want to change that with a new pop-up project called Second Staff, a roaming kitchen that offers the “the quick, unapologetic, sometimes messy but always tasty meals that cooks would throw together for each other, especially at the end of the night,” according to co-owner Jenny Phan. She and husband Sean work by day in the wine business but have missed the bustling nighttime food scenes from their time living in Chicago and Los Angeles.

“One of our biggest gripes from the first week of living here was getting off work at 1 a.m. and having nowhere to go except fast food,” Sean said. “We were like, ‘We’re just gonna do it ourselves,’” he said.

The Asakusa Kid, Japanese fried chicken from Second-Shift. (Second-Shift)
The Asakusa Kid, Japanese fried chicken from Second Staff. (Second Staff)

The couple has held several deep-undercover pop-ups in the last few months, at Retrograde Roasters in Sebastopol and the Miracle Plum Kitchen in Santa Rosa. Their focus has been Asian-inspired fried chicken, including their Korean Goddess, coated in a tangy gochujang sauce; the Sichuan Warrior, with a numbing, garlicky chile crisp; and the Asakusa Kid, coated in citrusy sansho, shiso and nori. They also sell scorched sugar boba tea and sides of bread and slaw.

Some of the spaces they’ve worked out of in the past had limited cooking equipment, which led to their limited menu, Phan said, to feed tired kitchen staff something filling and delicious.

“It’s like the gritty, behind-the-scenes industry stuff — fried chicken that was breaded with ramen noodles, kimchi bacon fried rice, grilled mushrooms. Our menu is something that is super approachable with the stronger flavors we love,” Phan said.

The next pop-up will be held at Jam’s Joy Bungalow in Sebastopol (150 Weeks Way, near Ramen Gaijin) from 6 p.m. to midnight Tuesday and Wednesday, March 29 and 30. Order ahead at second-staff.com/popup-snax if you want to assure yourself some fried chicken, because when the food is gone, it’s gone. Details at second-staff.com and on Instagram @_secondstaff.

New Bagel Shop Coming to Petaluma

By Heather Irwin
Bagels from Ethel’s Bagels in Petaluma. (Ethel’s Bagels)

After successfully growing their Bay Area bagelry over the last two years, Ethel’s Bagels will be opening a permanent location in Petaluma this summer.

The family-run pandemic pop-up has taken over the former April Pantry space at 1000 Clegg Court and will be selling organic bagels along with a delicatessen menu including Reuben sandwiches, classic lox, breads (including New York rye), braided challah, babka, rugelach and other traditional Jewish sweets.

Bagels from Ethel's Bagels in Petaluma. (Courtesy of Ethel's Bagels)
Bagels from Ethel’s Bagels in Petaluma. (@woolandson/Ethel’s Bagels)

In June 2020, Chef Nicolas Abrams launched the business, in honor of his New York-born grandparents, from his desire for Jewish comfort food and a longtime quest to create the perfect East Coast-meets-West Coast bagel. With extra time on their hands during the pandemic’s shelter-in-place orders, he and his family began baking, offering personal delivery of classic bagels and schmears.

Stay tuned for more details or follow online at ethelsbagels.com.

What Is Regenerative Grape Growing? Plus 3 Sonoma Wines to Try

By Stacy Briscoe
More and more Sonoma grapegrowers are using cover crops, like this red clover, to build soil health without the use of chemical fertilizers. (Shutterstock)

“We live in a world of buzzwords, and ‘regenerative agriculture’ is the new buzzword for sustainability — but I think it has legs,” says David Gates, the senior vice president of vineyard operations for Healdsburg’s Ridge Vineyards. Gates admits that the term itself can be hard to define in just a word or two. “It’s complex,” he says. “People have to be interested to really dig into it.”

“For wine consumers to understand ‘regenerative’ farming, they will need to understand ‘ degenerative’ farming,” says Will Bucklin of Glen Ellen’s Bucklin Old Hill Ranch. “Ancient soils were rich in organic matter. But with the advent of the plow, we turned the soil, introduced oxygen, which in turn degenerated the organic matter, releasing it back into the atmosphere as CO2,” he explains. “As I see it, regenerative ag is simply trying to get carbon back into the soil as organic matter.”

So, why not just go through the process of certifying a vineyard as organic? “Organics relies on a list of things that you can and can’t use,” says Ames Morison, co-founder of Medlock Ames Winery in Healdsburg. “Regenerative viticulture, on the other hand, takes it a step further by really protecting the soil.”

Organic matter increases the water holding capacity of soil, meaning farmers don’t need to irrigate as much. And it holds and stores vine nutrients, so fewer fertilizers and other additives are needed. “Most importantly, organic matter is the food source for the soil microorganisms, who are the soldiers that protect and feed the plants,” says Old Hill Ranch’s Bucklin.

The best, cheapest, easiest, and least intrusive way to improve the soil is to plant cover crops, such as mustard and clover. “And, when you don’t till the soil, you build up different fungi and different flora,” says Ridge Vineyards’ Gates.

Above the ground, regenerative agriculture also takes a more holistic approach to farming that takes into account the welfare of workers and animals. “Regenerative farming, it’s not just about the wine,” explains Morison. “It helps broaden the conversation about important topics on a level that encompasses everyone’s life and livelihood.”

Three wines to try

2017 Lytton Estate Syrah Dry Creek Valley $48 / ridgewine.com: “The key to our existence and the soul of what we do is distinctiveness — and that’s born in the soil.” — David Gates, Ridge Vineyards

2019 Ancient Field Blend Sonoma Valley $38 / buckzin.com: “Healthy vines produce more nutrient-dense and colorful grapes, requiring fewer inputs in the winery.” — Will Bucklin, Bucklin Old Hill Ranch

2020 Burning Daylight Sauvignon Blanc Alexander Valley $50 / medlockames.com: “It’s a purchasing decision that can help the planet and help workers.” — Ames Morison, Medlock Ames

Where to Eat for Under $10 in Petaluma

By Maci Martell
BBQ sandwich from Lombardi’s in Petaluma. Lombardi’s)

Petaluma has attracted visitors for decades with its small town charm, cute boutiques, secondhand shops, award-winning creameries and eclectic mix of restaurants. Finding a great meal here is an easy feat, but finding one that is also easy on the wallet takes some insider knowledge. We’re here to help. Click through the above gallery for 10 places in Petaluma where you can get a satisfying meal for less than $10.

Midcentury Modern Meets Rural Charm in Sonoma Home Listed for $3.395 Million

By Karen Kizer

A midcentury home is a bit of a surprise find in the rural Sobre Vista area of Sonoma. But a property built in 1953 at 1290 Sobre Vista Road sits handsomely on four acres that overlook the Mayacamas Mountains, rolling hills and a barn. The 2-bedroom, 2-bath home is currently listed for $3,395,000.

The home’s architecture is similar in style to the Eichler and Alliance homes that you would typically find next to similar homes in more densely populated areas in Marin and San Mateo counties. Flat or low slope roofs, cathedral ceilings and floor-to-ceiling windows are signature design elements of this midcentury style.

A bonsai tree, viewable from the home’s living room window, is a common landscaping characteristic in these homes, says realtor Carol Sebastiani. In fact, it was midcentury homes like this one that pioneered the seamless indoor/outdoor aesthetic that is so popular today.

The home’s interior is impeccable; the previous owners have taken good care of the home over the years. All-white walls and exteriors, wood floors and reflective mosaic tiles in the kitchen and bathrooms lend a feeling of brightness and crispness while bright colors add an element of playfulness — design highlights include a banana yellow dining set and sofa, a bubble-gum pink bedroom accent wall and electric blue upholstery.

Outdoors, an adjacent pool house overlooks a salt water pool and an above-ground hot tub. Mature Japanese maples and other trees complement the home and make it blend into the surrounding landscape.

For more information about the property at 1290 Sobre Vista Road, contact Carol Sebastiani, with Sotheby’s International, 415-290-3123, carolsebastiani.com

Bright, Renovated Healdsburg Home Asks $1.275 Million

By Karen Kizer

The nearly 100-year-old home at 524 Fitch St. wasn’t renovated in traditional wine country style. It isn’t rustic or “modern farmhouse” and there’s not a repurposed wine barrel in sight. But there’s a strong sense of “wine country living” behind the design details in this 2-bedroom, 2-bath home, which is on the market for $1,275,000.

A porch swing, for example, is a spot where the homeowners, Karen and Todd Reul, would sip wine and get to know neighbors passing by their house. The kitchen, called “a masterwork” by realtor Pam Buda, has ample room for food prep and an eat-in counter for entertaining guests. Raised beds for gardening and glass Bonelli doors remind inhabitants that life should take place both indoors and outdoors. The outdoor fire pit and seating area add to this vibe.

Homeowner Karen Reul is a co-owner of Healdsburg Plaza’s new home store, Forager, where she lends her curatorial eye to the design process. The store is, in her words, “a modern mercantile, with items that are beautiful but useful,” yet none of the wares are “too precious,” she adds. The Reuls’ home reflects the same aesthetic.

The couple brought in architect Scott Couture of Sausalito to create many unique elements in their home. One of Couture’s signature design tactics is creating furniture pieces with diagonal lines. The eat-in kitchen counter, for example, tapers narrower on one end. The fireplace flue stretches toward the ceiling at an angle “to break up what you might expect,” says Karen Reul.

Some design choices were made to keep the space bright. A kitchen glassware shelf has a mirror back that reflects the light. Instead of heavy drapery, the couple chose simple shades to let the sunshine in.

Staging by Woodland Stylists caps off the look. They employed a subdued color palette with texture-rich pillows and rugs doing the heavy-decorative lifting. Realtor Pam Buda says the popular west county-based stagers need to be booked months in advance.

There are other inspired details like a floating raw-edge wood shelf — sourced from Heritage Salvage in Petaluma — that serves as a bar. A branch is artfully displayed via a unique tabletop mount, created by Artifact Design and Salvage in Sonoma.

Fruit trees add color as does a wisteria that climbs along the fence. Hornbeam trees were added for privacy. “When trees are in bloom they arch over the (turf) lawn,” says Karen Reul. “It’s almost like this cocoon of greenery.”

For more information about the property at 524 Fitch St., contact Pam Buda with Corcoran Global Living, 707-480-4142, pambuda.com, 524fitchst.com

Pair Wine With Wildflowers Along These Sonoma County Routes

By Linda Murphy
Mustard, Dry Creek Valley. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

It happens in February and March — a Technicolor burst of blossoms, with bright yellow mustard and daffodils complimented by vibrant green carpets between vineyard rows and along Sonoma County roadsides. An especially early “bud break” this year — when vines sprout buds that will eventually become grapes — has added an additional stroke of color as vineyards awaken from winter dormancy.

Although much of this art gallery occurs naturally, savvy farmers also add their own plants, called cover crops, to their vineyards as a means of growing healthier vines. Clovers, grasses, bell beans, peas, oats, wild carrot, barley and triticale help improve soil structure and water-holding capacity, increase organic matter and plant nutrients, protect soils from erosion and provide habitats for the beneficial bugs that devour the bad ones.

These crops, and the more iconic, calendar-worthy mustard, are typically tilled or mowed in early to late spring, which means now is the time to see the seasonal splendor.

“I do love to see the vibrant yellow fields of mustard,” said Anne Moller-Racke, proprietor/viticulturist for Blue Farm Wines in Sonoma’s Carneros region. But, she said, mustard, bell beans and vetch grow too high for her Anne Katherina Vineyard. “My site gets cold, so I like to plant something of smaller stature, so that I have better air flow, which helps with frost control. The cover crop I plant in the fall is called vineyard mix, clovers and grasses.”

You don’t have to be a wine lover to appreciate the stunning spring show, but it’s good to know there are winery tasting rooms along some of the most gawk-worthy drives. These three routes offer eye-catching spring colors and plenty of refreshment stations — tasting rooms — to make a tour even more enjoyable.

Dry Creek Valley loop

Dry Creek Valley, the land of old-vine zinfandel, cabernet sauvignon, Rhone-style reds and grassy sauvignon blancs, has more than 9,000 acres of vineyards. One particular driving route covers all the bases: spring flowers, a leisurely pace and unpretentious wineries.

From Highway 101 in northern Healdsburg, exit west onto Dry Creek Road. Take Dry Creek Road northwest to Yoakim Bridge Road, turn left there and then head south on West Dry Creek Road. The loop ends at Westside Road, a couple of miles west of the Healdsburg city limits and with easy access back to Highway 101.

The drive is a gold mine of mustard glory, with patches of sweet alyssum, buttercups and poppies adding contrast. The former Timber Crest Farms (4791 Dry Creek Road) is a great first stop, where Amphora, Kokomo, Papapietro Perry and Peterson wineries have their tasting rooms and winemaking facilities. Also on the site is The Pour House, a tasting room featuring the wines of Goldschmidt Vineyards and Optima Winery.

At Dry Creek Peach & Produce (2179 Yoakim Bridge), the farmstand is closed until summer, yet the orchard-fruit blossoms and mustard on the property are photo-worthy. From there, turn south onto West Dry Creek Road to Martorana Family Winery (5956 West Dry Creek Road). The certified organically farmed vineyards surround the driveway that leads to the tasting area (for now) outside the cave. Martorana’s wines — among them chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, petite sirah and zinfandel — come from the estate vineyards, farmed without the use of pesticides or chemicals.

Quivira Vineyards (4900 West Dry Creek Road), a few miles south of Martorana on West Dry Creek Road, is of similar farming mind, taking things a step deeper with biodynamic viticultural practices. Winemaker Hugh Chappelle is a master of sauvignon blanc, zinfandel and Rhone-style wines, and the estate vibrates with life: organic vegetable gardens, chickens, a 140-year-old fig tree for preserves and olive trees for the production of oil.

Amphora Wines, 707-431-7767, amphorawines.com

Kokomo Winery, 707-433-0200, kokomowines.com

Martorana Family Winery, 707-433-1909, martoranafamilywinery.com

Papapietro Perry Winery, 707-433-0422, papapietro-perry.com

Peterson Winery, 707-431-7568, petersonwinery.com

Quivira Vineyards, 707-431-8333, quivirawine.com

The Pour House, 707-433-0100, thepourhouse707.com

Olivet Road, Russian River Valley

For a promenade of pinot noir producers, drive no farther than Olivet Road in western Santa Rosa. A dozen wineries are strewn along the road, between Guerneville and River roads. While pinot noir and chardonnay are the primary grape varieties grown, cabernet, syrah and zinfandel also shine, the last of which is made from some of the oldest vines in the county. The contrast of canary-yellow mustard and the dark, knotty vine trunks and limbs is striking. Many of the wineries belong to the Olivet District association, and its website (olivetroad.com) profiles the region, commonly referred to as the Santa Rosa Plains.

DeLoach Vineyards: DeLoach produces a dizzying array of wines, from large-volume, attractively priced regional blends of chardonnay and pinot noir to small-lot single-vineyard bottles and even tinier vineyard-block selections. The zinfandels can be exceptional, and don’t miss the sparkling wines made in the Champagne style, with a second fermentation occurring in the bottle. The 20-acre DeLoach estate is farmed using organic and biodynamic practices, including site-specific cover crops, to keep the soils and vines healthy and thriving. Founders Cecil and Christine DeLoach sold the property to Frenchman Jean-Charles Boisset in 2003. Since then, the Burgundy native has combined estate-grown grapes and those purchased from other farmers to create a line of wines that offers something for everyone.

1791 Olivet Road, Santa Rosa, 707-755-3300, deloachvineyards.com

Hook & Ladder Vineyard & Winery: The DeLoaches San Francisco firefighter Cecil De Loach and his wife, Christine, purchased the Barbieri Ranch and its vineyards in the Olivet District in 1970. After selling their DeLoach Vineyards to Jean-Charles Boisset in 2003, they moved their winery operations to the Barbieri site (planted in 1905) and named it Hook & Ladder. Their grandson, Jason DeLoach, is the winemaker. A benefit to visiting Hook & Ladder is that Jason produces merlot, cabernet sauvignon and red blends from the family’s Chalk Hill vineyard, Los Amigos. In the tasting room, they join pinot noir, old-vine zinfandel and chardonnay as options to try and buy. The firefighting theme (Cecil DeLoach was a San Francisco firefighter) is particularly poignant, honoring those who have battled wildfires in recent years.

2134 Olivet Road, Santa Rosa, 707-526-2255, hookandladderwinery.com

Pellegrini-Olivet Lane: Alexia Pellegrini is the fourth generation of her family to manage this vineyard and winery. Its Olivet Lane Chardonnay has been, for years, one of the finest from Sonoma, and the grapes also are sold to such producers as Gary Farrell Winery & Vineyards and Ramey Wine Cellars. Pellegrini produces pinot noirs from some of the oldest existing pinot vines in Russian River Valley. In 1973, Alexia’s family purchased a 70-acre apple and plum orchard on Olivet Road and converted it to vineyards in 1975. Her father, Bob Pellegrini, was the winemaker and face of the brand — named for the olive trees that lined the lane to the winery — until turning over operations to Alexia in 2017. Also produced are a rosé of pinot noir and vineyard-designated pinots from the Hallberg and Toboni vineyards.

4055 W. Olivet Road, Santa Rosa, 707-545-8680, pellegrinisonoma.com

Kenwood-Glen Ellen corridor

Kunde Family Winery, Ledson Winery & Vineyards and BR Cohn wineries are known for the fields of mustard that bloom around their wineries and throughout their vineyards. A drive through the Kenwood-Glen Ellen corridor of Highway 12 allows for March flashes of vast mustard fields and colorful cover crops near other wineries and in pastures, fallow plots and along the roadside.

Tastings at Kunde, Ledson and BR Cohn offer deep menus of wines to try, including sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, barbera, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, Rhone varietals and zinfandel, with an occasional splash of pinot noir. Here are three other wineries to consider visiting; be sure to take a Sunday-drive attitude on Highway 12, which can be a slow go. Take in the view, and the vino, too.

Chateau St. Jean: The marvelous Margo Van Staaveren has made wine at Chateau St. Jean since 1980, working her way from laboratory technician to winemaker and general manager. Vineyard-designated and Reserve wines have long been Chateau St. Jean’s raison d’être, yet the range is broad and includes regional and appellational blends. Cinq Cepage is Van Staaveren’s flagship, produced from the five classic Bordeaux red grapes (cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, malbec and petit verdot). Chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and pinot noir are also staples. The large lawn in front of the chateau makes for easy physical distancing for visitors, and there are options for cheese and charcuterie plates.

8555 Sonoma Hwy, Kenwood, 707-257-5784, chateaust.jean.com

Imagery Estate Winery: Winery founder Joe Benziger turned over winemaking to his daughter, Jamie Benziger, in 2017, and she’s charged with continuing to produce arguably the most interesting lineup of wines in Sonoma. Little-known varieties such as lagrein, teroldego and aleatico are bottling alongside tempranillos, malbecs and tannats. There is a muscat canelli and the rare (for Sonoma) riesling, as well as the more traditional wines such as sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, zinfandel, petite sirah and red blends. All the bottles are dressed with eye-catching labels commissioned by artists. When indoor tastings are allowed to return, visitors will see many of the paintings and drawings that have become Imagery labels. Come for the mustard, stay for the excellent wines and sense of adventure.

14335 Sonoma Hwy, Glen Ellen, 877-550-4278, imagerywinery.com

Mayo Family Winery Reserve Room: President Jeff Mayo and his team produce and pour some 20 different single-vineyard wines from Sonoma Valley grapes. There are two tasting rooms, one in Glen Ellen and the Reserve Room in Kenwood. The focus of the latter is in pairing Mayo wines to specific foods, typically seven courses of small bites. A visit here eliminates the need for lunch, and there are myriad wine styles served. Don’t miss the brut sparkling wines and the boldly flavored red Reserve bottlings.

9200 Sonoma Hwy, Kenwood, 707-833-5504, mayofamilywinery.com

Also:

BR Cohn Winery, 15000 Sonoma Hwy, Glen Ellen, 707-938-4064, brcohn.com

Kunde Family Winery, 9828 Sonoma Hwy, Kenwood, 707-833-5505, kunde.com

Ledson Winery & Vineyards, 7335 Hwy 12, Kenwood, 707-537-3810, ledson.com