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Barrio Fresca Cocina Mexicana, Sebastopol: Owner Carlos Rosas trained at upscale restaurants and takes the same fine dining approach with his spectacular Mexico City street food. Served on paper plates at bargain prices, it’s art in the form of tacos, quesadillas, and signatures like choriloco of red corn tortilla topped in potatoes, handmade chorizo, scrambled eggs, crunchy pumpkin seed, melted cheese curds, arugula, and salsa de chile morita. 6760 McKinley St., Suite 140, Sebastopol, 707-329-6538, barriobayarea.com. (Photo by John Burgess)
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Boathouse Asian Eatery, inside the Graton Resort & Casino: The former M.Y. China has been reborn as a swanky restaurant featuring Japanese, Chinese, Thai, and Vietnamese cuisine. Flavors are fresh, portions are big, and signature dishes impress, such as duck soup, classic sushi, and pork belly kimchee lime fried rice. 288 W. Golf Course Drive, 707-588-9440, boathouseasianeatery.com. (Photo by John Burgess)
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The Brass Rabbit, Healdsburg: From the same owners and executive chef of Healdsburg’s Chalkboard, this cozy bistro welcomes with a more relaxed mood but similar Cal-French dishes. Rabbit is the main feature here, though, as rillettes, confit, prosciutto- wrapped loin, and an occasionally featured treasure of rabbit pot-pie in rabbit gravy. 109 Plaza St., Healdsburg, 707-473-8580, thebrassrabbithealdsburg.com.
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Brewsters Beer Garden, Petaluma: San Francisco nightclub maven Mike Goebel has another success to shout about with this popular, sophisticated country bluegrass spot featuring barbecue, creative pub food, craft adult beverages, great live music, and a chic hideaway location. 229 N. Water St., Petaluma, 707-981-8330, brewstersbeergarden.com. (Photo by Heather Irwin)
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Carneros Bistro & Wine Bar, Sonoma: It’s attached to a luxury Marriott hotel, but this is fine dining worth its own destination. California cooking showcases produce from the on-site garden, with plenty of variety and interesting dishes like tender wood-grilled octopus with fiery-sweet chipotle crema and honey soy gastrique, atop warm saffron potato salad and peppery arugula. 1325 Broadway, Sonoma, 707-931-2042, carnerosbistro.com. (Photo by John Burgess)
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Chicken Pharm, Petaluma: Featuring Petaluma’s famous Rocky chicken, the menu here is a bird lover’s dream. Buttermilk- fried, grilled, or spatchcocked, the meat gets extra flavor from add-ons like house-made pickles and slaw with carrots and dill, or fiery gochujang and kimchi. Good burgers and salads, too, plus great cocktails. 132 Keller St., Petaluma, 707-543-1278, chickenpharm.com. (Photo by John Burgess)
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Coast Kitchen, Jenner: Since 1963, the redwood and stone Timber Cove resort has been a fun, if somewhat funky, retreat. A lavish renovation in 2016 turned it into a truly deluxe destination, with a Cal-cuisine restaurant to match. Inventive bites shine, like fried quail drizzled in sweet chile vinaigrette, and king salmon over lentils and tangy sorrel salad. 21780 Highway 1, Jenner, 707-847-3231, coastkitchensonoma.com. (Photo by John Burgess)
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The Drawing Board, Petaluma: Sweet potatoes made into glass noodles for green curry and smoked carrot fashioned into “lox” are just a few of the delicious surprises at this chic palace of plantbased cuisine. Meat eaters will find steak, chicken and such — but really, the vegetables, nuts, and grains are the jewels. 190 Kentucky St., Petaluma, 707-774-6689, tdbpetaluma.com. (Photo by John Burgess)
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the fig café & winebar, Glen Ellen: Sondra Bernstein and chef John Toulze have worked their magic together for 20 years now with their nationally renowned Cal-French cooking, with signature dishes like grilled fig and arugula salad, steamed mussels, and blue cheese butter steak-frites. The casual bistro is darling and offers friendly touches like complimentary corkage. 13690 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen, 707-938-2130, thefigcafe.com. (Photo by Chris Hardy)
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Giorgio’s Italian Restaurant, Healdsburg: The 1920s cottage digs need sprucing up, but look past the tired decor for wonderful East Coast-style pizza. Old-school Italian dishes like spaghetti and meatballs and chicken Parmesan are hit-and-miss, but the retro mood and friendly staff are delicious. 25 Grant Ave., Healdsburg, 707-433-1106. (Photo by John Burgess)
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Gravenstein Grill, Sebastopol: The chef shops Sonoma County for excellent ingredients, then crafts them into mouthwatering Cal cuisine like crispy local duck leg partnered with braised red cabbage mixed with organic local heirloom apples, smoked bacon, herbed spaetzle, and organic local plum gastrique. Killer local wines, too. 8050 Bodega Ave., Sebastopol, 707-634-6142, gravensteingrill.com. (Photo by John Burgess)
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Gypsy Café, Sebastopol: Comfort food is elevated with top-notch ingredients, such as “pork and beans” boasting Rancho Gordo yellow-eye heirloom beans and savory greens, or wine-braised pot roast anchored by golden-seared Parmesan polenta. The chic-antique decor makes a meal extra-special as well. 162 N. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-861-3825, gypsycafe.com. (Photo by John Burgess)
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Izakaya Kitaru, Petaluma: A taste of authentic Japan beckons at this boisterous spot, boasting Asian pub cuisine like ramen, udon, and skewered meats of all kinds. Sushi is good, but be daring and explore more exotic dishes such as velvety monkfish liver glistening in ponzu sauce. 212 Western Ave., Petaluma, 707-789-9068, kitarupetaluma.business.site. (Photo by John Burgess)
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Negri’s Italian Dinners & Joe’s Bar, Occidental: The Negri family has had a winning formula since 1943, and it’s stood the test of time with delicious classics like chicken parmigiana, lasagna, and garlic shrimp pasta, all served with family-style starters including minestrone soup, salad, antipasto veggies, salami, French bread and butter, and for some entrées, ravioli, too. 3700 Bohemian Highway, Occidental, 707-874-0301, negrisrestaurant.com. (Photo by John Burgess)
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The Reel Fish Shop & Grill, Sonoma: The 111-year-old building looks like a dive from the outside, but scoot inside, past the bar and live music stage, and you’ll discover first-rate seafood. Chef Aiki Terashima hooks us with simple joys like lobster rolls and shrimp tacos, then ups the experience with fancier lobster ravioli and scallop risotto. 401 Grove St., Sonoma, 707-343-0044, thereelfishshop.com. (Photo by John Burgess)
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Restaurant at Russian River Vineyards, Forestville: The beautiful, charm-laden garden patio is impressive enough, as are the warm, wood-trimmed wine tasting rooms. But stay past a sip and head to a table for a full meal, with much of the first-rate Cal cuisine inspired by the on-site culinary garden. 5700 N. Highway 116, Forestville, 707-887-3344, russianrivervineyards.com. (Photo by John Burgess)
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Rosen’s 256 North, Petaluma: Cheesecake legend Jan Rosen used to own several restaurants in Petaluma and Santa Rosa, and now she’s back with a hip, fun American bistro-sports bar. Seafood dishes are particularly stellar, like salmon in saffron sauce or butter-wine steamed clams — and that cheesecake is as mouthwatering as ever. 256 N. Petaluma Blvd., Petaluma, 707-766-0799, 256north.com. (Photo by Alvin Jornada)
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Salt & Stone, Kenwood: The legendary roadhouse has found new luster with new owners and a fresh concept, focusing on solid steaks, seafood, burgers, cocktails, and a very popular happy hour. This is where the locals eat. 9900 Highway 12, Kenwood, 707-833-6326, saltstonekenwood.com. (Photo by John Burgess)
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The Shuckery, Petaluma: The Oyster Girls caterers, Aluxa and Jazmine Lalicker, have opened a full restaurant specializing in, what else, seafood. Oysters are good, but the fresh fish is divine, in simple presentations that let the catch shine through. 100 Washington St., Petaluma, 707-981-7891, theshuckeryca.com.
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Single Thread Farm-Restaurant-Inn, Healdsburg: Plan on four hours and serious wallet damage for supper at this luxury kaiseki destination that’s the Japanese answer to The French Laundry. The menu changes nearly daily, combining Asian ingredients with precious produce from the restaurant’s own farm. 131 North St., Healdsburg, 707-7234646, singlethreadfarms.com. (Photo by John Burgess)
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Trading Post Restaurant & Bakery, Cloverdale: Come for the first-rate bakery, and stay for dinner. Chef-owner Erik Johnson crafts a simple but satisfying menu of roast chicken, duck-fat tater tots, and excellent sausage-stuffed mushrooms. Be sure to order the bread board and the savory topped toasts. 102 S. Cloverdale Blvd., Cloverdale, 707-894-6483, thepostcloverdale.com.
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Umbria Glen Ellen: An extremely popular Italian eatery in San Francisco for 21 years, Umbria has moved to Wine Country. The owner is a delight, and the upscale comfort food is great, with classics like lasagna and breaded, sautéed chicken breast with crisp-edged grilled polenta and sautéed spinach. 13740 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen, 707-996-4401, umbriaglenellen.com.