Food, Inc premieres in Sonoma County

If you’re someone who eats food — and I’m guessing you are — it’s worth giving a few minutes of thought to what you’re actually putting in your mouth. Because chances are you have no idea where it came from, let alone what it actually is. At least that’s the premise of the producers of Food, Inc, a new documentary that casts a hard look at commercial food producers who they claim are hiding the truth about what we’re actually eating.

Scary, right?

That’s the idea. Shocking complacent eaters into really taking a harder look at what’s going on our plates — from genetically engineered vegetables to mutant chickens that have been designed to grow breasts so enormous they can barely walk.

Titillating the audience with catch-all soundbites like, “The (food) industry doesn’t want you to know the truth about what you’re eating. Because if you knew, you might not want to eat it,” Food, Inc. has a similar feel to Al Gore’s Inconvient Truth with quick-cut,
“oh my god” urgency, and an all-star lineup (Michael Pollan, Eric Schlosser
et al.). All this earnestness may exhaust some while invigorating others to extreme
action.

Whether you’re a hard-core food purist or merely interested in hearing the other side of gloriously choreographed commercials for cheaper-than-dirt burgers, chips and soda, it’s worth considering the less-glamorous side of the food industry and making up your own mind.    

Why you need to go: The film premieres in Santa Rosa at the Rialto Cinemas Lakeside Friday, June 19, 7pm. After that showing, a panel of local food experts including Paula Downing of Santa Rosa Original Farmer’s Market; Marissa Guggiana of Sonoma Direct; Michael Moody of Oliver’s Market and Amy Rice-Jones of Petaluma Bounty will chat with movie-goers about the importance of supporting local foods.

If you miss Friday’s showing, the movie continues throughout the week.

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Want more to disturbing food theater? End of the Line, a film about over-fishing also opens on June 19, but so far no word if we’ll get it here in Sonoma County. Stay tuned.

Doughnuts. Live a little.

donut.jpgFor a county that embraces the good life — and all the calories that come with it — Sonoma seems unable to let itself appreciate one of the best things in life: Donuts.

Sure, we have a handful of reasonably okay doughnutteries. But where’s the gusto for greasy goodness wrapped in sugary deliciousness? I mean, as a once-in-a-while kind of treat? Because trust me, you’re not all eating sprouts 24/7. I’ve seen you at Costco, trying on elastic-waisted shorts, darlings.

Other cities embrace their donut-lust with pride. Take Portland’s odd-ball Voodoo Donuts, featuring everything from the Pepto/Nyquil donut (currently on hold) to the Grape Ape (raised doughnut with vanilla frosting and grape powder) or Arnold Palmer (cake doughnut covered with lemon and tea powder), not to mention donuts covered with Cap’n Crunch and even vegan versions of the ‘nut. Or perhaps Seattle’s amazing Top Pot, which truly has the best, most delightful donuts on the planet. Heck, we couldn’t even support a Krispy Kreme. Maybe it has something to do with the coffee culture of the Pacific Northwest.

Fortunately, there are a handful of enterprising local restauranteurs who understand the comfort and joy of a good donut. Call it a bit of nostalgia, throwing a smidgen of caution to the wind, mixed with a smattering of c’est la vie. I applaud you all with a 21-donut hole salute. I’ll worry about my diet tomorrow.
Continue reading “Doughnuts. Live a little.”

GG’s Earth and Surf: Down, but maybe not out

So I’ve finally gotten the scoop on the shuttered Third St. restaurant directly from Suzan Fleissner, and at this point she’s just not ready to throw in the towel on her dream. Long story short, the location wasn’t working out for her, financial issues arose and ultimately, Fleissner vacated. Currently she’s seeking out a new location to re-open the restaurant, but when and where are still very much up in the air. Here’s the long and short of it from her:

“For a variety of business reasons 3rd St. just wasn’t the fit, as they say location, location, location…so I am on the look out.  It’s certainly not easy, but there is some genuine support for this restaurant and people get it.  The green light is on sustainability, I tell myself “don’t give up”.  When I was reviewed on the 4th day of being open I thought, hmmm, I followed the 3 rules for what make a great restaurant according to that reviewer, simple food done right, a pleasant atmosphere and great service.  We did it!  And we will again.  GG’s is looking for that ideal location.”

UPDATE: I heard from Dino D’Argenzio last Friday evening, whose family trust owns the property. Dino wrote me a long note outlining his thoughts about why the location didn’t work out for Suzan, saying it was more about business practices than the space itself. “There is inaccurate information being thrown around and it is time for a reality check about Susan F, and this property…the location is very good for all kinds of business as is proven by all of the long term established business in that area of downtown.”

At this point in the story it seems like a moot point to continue the debate just for an ongoing “he said, she said.” Suzan feels slighted. Dino feels slighted. There are bad feelings on both sides. You work out the math.

In the end, though, it’s just an all-around shame. Best of luck to both sides. I’ll keep you posted.

 

 

Crab Cake Recipe: Syrah Bistro

The Best Crab Cakes

adapted from Josh Silvers, Syrah Bistro
Ingredients:
12 oz. Fresh Crab Meat
2 Tablespoons Red Onion (finely diced)
3 Tablespoons Red Bell Pepper (finely diced)
3 Tablespoons Celery (finely diced)
1 Tablespoon Italian Parsley (chopped)
1 Tablespoon Fresh Lemon Juice
1
/2 Cup (approximately) Best Foods Mayonnaise
Salt and Pepper (to taste)
Panko (Japanese style bread crumbs)
Peanut Oil (for sautéing)
Method:
Check crab meat for shells and place in large bowl. Add vegetables,
parsley, mayonnaise and lemon juice and mix thoroughly. Then add Panko 
slowly until the consistency is dry and slightly tacky to the touch.
Form cakes and cover with more Panko and set aside.
To Cook:
Heat sauté pan, then add oil and wait until oil is hot. Cook crab cakes
until one side is brown and turn over and cook other side until brown.
Remove from pan and place on a paper towel. Serve with your favorite
condiments.

Great American Food & Music Fiasco?

forkbig.jpgJust in from Nashville, I heard about the weekend’s Great American Food & Music Festiva disaster. Apparently it was epic. Which makes me feel a whole lot less upset that I couldn’t go. But a bit sad nonetheless…

Here’s the long and short of it: A bunch of foodie folks decided to bring great food finds from around the nation to Shoreline Amphitheater. On the list…

  • Katz’s Deli, pastrami sandwiches (New York)
  • Pink’s Hot Dogs, chili dogs (Los Angeles)
  • Tony Luke’s, cheesesteaks (Philadelphia)
  • Barney Greengrass, bagels with smoked salmon and cream cheese (New York)
  • Southside Market & Barbecue (Elgin, Texas)
  • Graeter’s Ice Cream (Cincinnati)
  • Anchor Bar, home of the original Buffalo chicken wings (Buffalo, New York)
  • Junior’s,cheesecake (Brooklyn)
  • Zingerman’s Deli, curating (ha ha) the ultimate bacon plate (Ann Arbor, Michigan)

Understandably, people got pretty stoked about the lineup and paid up to $500 per ticket to attend the eat-fest, which also featured Food Network celebs Bobby Flay and Guy Fieri along with music (whatever, just bring on the food). Thousands showed up (including something like 8,000 who had special bracelets to jump long food lines) and that’s when the trouble began.

Apparently folks were waiting in lines for hours just to get in, the bracelets didn’t work, some of the vendors didn’t have power and/or quickly ran out of food and tempers starting flaring. Foodies don’t tend to take kindly to being kept from their pastrami and Pinks weenies.

The Twittersphere and blogosphere exploded. The San Jose Mercury news picked up the story. And at this point there are mea culpas happening all over the place, as well as refunds for some. You can read through a bevy of blasts on the seriouseats.com site (founder Ed Levine was an organizer of the festival).

Can’t get enough of the train wreck? Here’s Ed’s sort-of apology that made folks even madder.

Here’s the thing, though…Thousands showed up. Thousands. In this crap economy. Why? People are dying for this kind of gastronomical Candyland. It’s cheap(ish) entertainment. So, okay it was a bit of a disaster out of the gate. The good news is that many of us are willing to pay for food experiences that might otherwise be out of reach (ie: going to Brooklyn for cheesecake or LA for a hot dog). Hopefully goodwill toward the folks who tried to put on this event will prevail after the immediate frustration subsides.

The Odyssey of Odyssey continues…

UPDATE from RUDY…
I heard from a very upset Rudy Mihal this morning who wanted to set the record straight on what was recently printed in the Chronicle. Here’s what he told me:

“The Chronicle switched my words around and tried to make this story juicier than it was. I’m definitely not trying to burn any bridges here. We have had good, strong local support of clientele over the years. I was frustrated with a lot of the negative comments (in BiteClub). And I’m sorry if I offended anyone.

Mihal told me that it was a real challenge trying to run a restaurant by himself, but that it was a learning opportunity he really wanted — from running the kitchen to doing the books. He wanted locals to know that he’s still figuring out what he’s going to be doing in the coming months, after a few weeks in New York and a trip to Europe. But Sonoma County is still his home. “I really enjoy living in Sonoma County and hope I can have another opportunity to better embrace the locals.”

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EARLIER: Rudy Mihal isn’t leaving Windsor without a few last words in Wednesday’s San Francisco Chronicle

Change of scene: Between the wrecked economy and the weak reception he’s received in his Windsor location, Odyssey (426 Emily Rose Circle) chef-owner Rudy Mihal says he’s “taking the hint” and closing up shop the second weekend of July, with plans to relocate to the “big city.”

“They didn’t like me much here,” he says of his 2-year-old tiny, but ambitious, French-Italian restaurant. “To these people, fine dining is Applebee’s.”

Now, I’ve long been a supporter of Rudy, because he’s a talented guy (if not always the most tactful). A lot of us were really excited about having him in Wine Country, though obviously not all of us. There were some very heartfelt comments in a previous post about his closure, as well as some downright nasty ones.

But regardless of the vitriol, the bottom line is that the whole thing just doesn’t look good for any of us in Wine Country — and that’s too bad. This region desperately needs young, talented innovators who aren’t afraid of taking risks, and they often don’t get a warm reception. At the same time, diners do want a little love from the kitchen, consistency and food they can identify with. Goodwill to the locals goes a long way. 

Maybe Windsor wasn’t ready for Odyssey. Maybe Odyssey wasn’t ready for Windsor. But in the end we’re all losing something. And that sucks.

Wild Foxx

burger.jpgJust a quick hit on the new Santa Rosa coffee shop/diner, Wild Foxx. It’s pretty much exactly what you’d expect to pop up at the former Baker’s Square — breakfast all day, pies and cakes in a refrigerated case up front, a massive menu with everything from burgers and French dip sandwiches to rib eye steak, chicken marsala and shrimp scampi. (See my earlier post on their naming woes)
I’ve only had a chance to do lunch so far, ordering up a solidly cooked (if a bit greasy) cheeseburger and fries. Certainly not the best burger ever, but far from the worst. Respectable, plate-eclipsing diner fare at a reasonable(ish) $8.25. My server was bright and bubbly, the service quick and things seemed clean and orderly.
Expect to rub elbows with plenty of the senior-set at lunch — on my visit the over 65-crowd was well-represented (okay, I felt downright youthful) — and families in the booths. Kid-friendly grub (meaning lots of fried comfort food from mozzarella sticks to potato skins) is in plentiful supply. Closest local comparison: Adel’s.
Wild Foxx Restaurant: Breakfast, lunch and dinner, 1350 Farmers Lane, Santa Rosa, (707) 544-8117.

Carmen’s Burger Bar | Santa Rosa


Great hamburgers in a quiet neighborhood of Santa Rosa
If you don’t rub elbows with at least one person you know at Carmen’s you probably need to get out a little more.
Nestled into the established McDonald neighborhood, neighbors caught onto Carmen’s charm quickly, packing the shoe-box-sized restaurant with kids and families and ensuring a 10 to 20 minute wait most evenings.
It’s a park-your-bike-out-front kind of place that serves up simple, straightforward burgers, onion rings and milkshakes with the added benefit of a full bar (one of only a few in the immediate area).
Top honors at Carmen’s goes to the Triplets–three sliders dressed up with either cheddar, blue cheese or nothin’ at all. Going red-meatless? The Turkey Melt is divine — a moist turkey burger with grilled onions, Thousand island dressing on rye bread.
The menu also includes simple salads and a few Mexican items, but its best to stick to the burgers.
Carmen’s Burger Bar: 1612 Terrace Way, Santa Rosa, (707) 579-3663 and also in Larkfield, 90 Mark West Springs Road, Santa Rosa, 526-1575.
 
 
 

Restaurant Finds: Your questions answered

Recently folks have been asking me where to find some very specific foods they’ve been craving. Here’s installment one…

Boudin Sausage: Franco Dunn, Chef Emeritus of Santi Restaurant serves up different salumi each week at area farm markets (Santa Rosa, Healdsburg and Sebastopol: 1st/3rd Sundays). Sign up for his weekly email to find out what he’ll be selling. Recently he’s done chorizo, ciccioli and Tuscan chicken liver pate. http://www.tavernasanti.com/sausage.htm#

abysinnia.jpg

Ethiopian/Eritrean: Downtown Santa Rosa’s Abyssinia serves up spicy, earthy, stew-ish African cuisine that’s eaten without utensils. Instead beef, lentils, chicken and veggies are scooped up with giant pieces of injera (a plate-sized, tart crepe/pancake). 913 4th St
Santa Rosa, (707) 568-6455. You can also find Ethiopian food at the annual Glendi Festival, which usually happens each September. www.saintseraphim.com
Vietnamese Sandwiches: If you’re not familiar with Bahn mi, then you should be. This delicious grab-no-go meal is simply a fresh baguette piled with pickled carrots, daikon, cilantro, cucumber, hot chilies, sliced pork and some sort of mystery meat that you try not to think about too much (most often head cheese). Both sides of the bread are spread with a sweet mayo and fish or soy sauce. The crunchy veggies, soft bread and combination of meats makes for a sweet, salty, savory bit of heaven on a bun.Once you’re hooked you’ll never look at tuna salad or turkey on white the same again. Lee’s Noodle House, 1010 Hopper Ave., Santa Rosa, 707.523.2358. Get it with a side of Durian shake. 
Southern Cooking: There are two great southern cooks in Sonoma County. Jeff Mall of Zin often has Southern-inspired dishes at his Healdsburg restaurant, including a jambalaya I recently tasted and Sunday night fried chicken. Call ahead to see what’s on the menu. Maria Vieages, a New Orleans transplant is the other. She’s been working at local wineries, but you can taste her food at cooking classes she teaches around town. On June 16, she’ll be teaching at the Glenelly Inn doing Oysters Bienville, Andouille Stuffed Chicken Breast, Dirty Rice, Smothered Sonoma Greens and Cherries Jubilee and frequently teaches at Sur La Table. Craving Chicken and Waffles: Red Rose Cafe 
Norwegian Food: BiteClub hasn’t found any restaurants serving up the smorgasbord, but on Wednesday, June 24th you can learn how to make it at the Glenelly Inn with Kristi Hallamore Jeppesen.  “Norwegian Food with a California Twist” with  Marinated Cheese; Festtorsk (Party Cod); Agurk Salat (Cucumber Salad); Ertestuing (Stewed Peas); Potet Salat med varm dressing (Potato Salad with a warm bacon dressing); Soet fondu (Sweet fondue for desert). Class info. 
Fried Plantains: El Coqui Puerto Rican cuisine is scheduled to open in the coming weeks, and a sneak peek at the menu shows there’ll be plenty of plantains on the menu. 400 Mendocino, Santa Rosa.
Polish Pierogies: Mother Xcena is the force behind A Divine Affair’s handmade Ukranian style dumplings ($16) filled with either potatoes and cheese, slow roast pork, oxtail or sauerkraut.  Daughter (and owner) Kahleen Nowak’s mans the stove, pan searing them with plenty of butter and onions — an upscale version of my Ohio favorite. Decorated with little ribbons of sour cream. 
Potato Pancakes: Best bet is Cafe Europe, an out-of-the-way little spot that’s quietly been serving up wiener schnitzel and spatzle for years. Their potato pancakes are the best in Sonoma County. Also try Chicken Paprikash at Little Switzerland in Sonoma, 401 Grove St, (707) 938-9990.
Have more questions? Let me know.

News & Gossip: GG’s, Corks, Fro Yo & “Vegilantes”

dish.jpgGG’s: Closed?
Though there’s still no confirmation from owners on the fate of GG’s Earth and Surf, things are looking bleak. The restaurant’s furniture and interior fixtures have begun to be moved into a temporary storage system set up in a parking spot in front of the Third Street eatery. BiteClubbers reported seeing the restaurant furniture stacked and moved out yesterday, and it appears to be continuing today.  Currently, OpenTable.com not accepting reservations for the restaurant and a voicemail says that the restaurant still remains “temporarily closed.” Last week BiteClub reported that the restaurant had gone dark with an enigmatic sign saying “Closed due to Technical Difficulties”.

Olive Oil with your FroYo?

If there’s anything from the 80’s that we’re glad to see make a triumphant return, it’s frozen yogurt. Not that it ever really went away, but the low-fat treat is getting a very 2009 facelift with the addition of savory toppings — like the sea salt and olive oil drizzle BiteClub recently saw at Healdsburg’s Snow Bunny Yogurt ( 312 Center St., Healdsburg, (707) 431-7669). Move over gummy bears.

Calling all “Vegilantes”
Bounty Hunters in Petaluma want you to join their Food Posse. Volunteers for the program help round up surplus fruits and vegetables from backyard gardens, orchards and farms for local food programs.  Collecting unwanted produce that would otherwise go to waste is called “gleaning” and is becoming an increasingly popular movement around the country. Want to learn more? Meet the Glean Team at the Petaluma Library, June 17 and 7pm. And stay tuned for more details on local foragers in BiteClub.

Corks Chef Departs
Chef Greg Hallihan, formerly of Elmo’s and Stella’s, has parted ways from his recent gig at Corks Restaurant at Russian River Vineyards. Owners say they’ll continue on, at this point, without an executive chef, using the same folks who’ve been working in the kitchen. With the departure, though, the restaurant will adjust its Thursday through Sunday “fine dining” menu to focus more on pairing wines from their vineyards — including new Sauvignon Blanc and Gewurztraminer being released this month. The restaurant, co-owned by Pasta King Art Ibleto, features pasta and sauces on Monday; bbq babyback ribs, chicken and oysters on Wednesday and will begin Sunday brunch this week from 11am to 3pm. 5700 Gravenstein Hwy N, Forestville, (707) 887-3344.