What Goes Around

Sebastopol artist Patrick Amiot stands on the carousel he created for a new convention center outside Toronto. Each carousel figure reflects an aspect of Canadian culture.

Patrick Amiot, known in Sonoma County for transforming junk into distinctive, whimsical art, has had lots of people ask him to create custom pieces. But a man who approached him last year was different.

The Canadian didn’t request a sculpture of his wife or son or dog. He wanted a little fire truck that kids could ride at a convention center his company, the Remington Group, was building outside of Toronto.

Amiot recalled the conversation: “I said, ‘A kiddie ride. Isn’t that kind of small for a convention center? Why don’t we do something bigger?’”

“Like what?” the developer asked.

“Let’s do a carousel,” Amiot replied. He just threw it out there. A week later the developer gave the green light, and Amiot began creating a merry-go-round like no other.

The carousel, nearing completion, is 50 feet in diameter and has 44 sculpted metal figures to ride, among them: a gigantic beaver with buck teeth, a big gray dog, a bumblebee, a rabbit with huge curved ears and eyes made from old taillights, a moose, a school bus reading “ECOLIERS” in front, and a cow driving a pickup.

The carousel, named the Pride of Canada, is not just for looks: it goes up and down, round and round, thanks to solar power and a state-of-the-art motor. Amiot would only say that he will be paid “six figures” for the work.

The characters on the carousel reflect varied aspects of Canada. There’s a barrel going over Niagara Falls that’s accessible for the disabled, and each piece has a license plate from a Canadian province. Not coincidentally, the paint on each sculpture matches the color of its license plate.

Every piece is made from junk that would have been tossed into landfills. Amiot scours wrecking yards, flea markets and dumps to find rusted water tanks, old vacuum cleaners, spent fire extinguishers and other debris he fashions into art.

“They asked me if I can make drawings, and I just said no,” Amiot said about members of the Bratty family, owner of the Remington Group. “I took a big chance … because they could have turned around and said, ‘No drawings, no contract.’ But I think this gentleman believed in me enough to understand that I work with junk. I can seduce them with all sorts of pretty drawings, but the reality is it’s not going to look like the drawings.”

Slender, energetic and quick to unleash his staccato laugh, Amiot explained that he doesn’t know what a piece will look like until it’s finished. “I’m not sure until the very last day. I don’t know what I’m going to do because I don’t know what (pieces) I’m going to find. That’s really the best way to work as an artist.”

Friends and neighbors bring Amiot all sorts of treasures, such as old garden tools and car parts, which become incorporated into his work. He speaks rhapsodically about the objects, like hubcaps that “have their own spirit” because they’ve traveled hundreds of thousands of miles over scalding asphalt and winter prairies.

“Some people think I give new life to these objects, but I just extend their lives,” Amiot explained. “It just keeps going.”

A French Canadian, Amiot, 54, carved out a niche in eastern Canada by making clay figures, including hockey players. By 1997, he wanted to leave the Montreal area and move to the U.S.

Kevin Gilfether is part of the crew of welders and metalworkers who helped Amiot prepare pieces for use on the Pride of Canada carousel.
Kevin Gilfether is part of the crew of welders and metalworkers who helped Amiot prepare pieces for use on the Pride of Canada carousel.

Lured by images of Hollywood, Amiot and his family (his wife, Brigitte Laurent, and two daughters, then ages 5 and 7) drove a motor home in the summer of 1997 to Los Angeles, but decided it wasn’t for them. So they headed north.

“We stopped in Marin and they didn’t want my motor home anywhere,” he said. So they kept driving until they reached Sebastopol. Locals were friendly and welcoming; Amiot and Laurent sensed the place would be right for them.

The family enjoyed Sebastopol, but Amiot’s art wasn’t supporting them. His clay figures weren’t selling well in the U.S., and shipping them to galleries in Canada was costly, with import duties, breakage and an unfavorable exchange rate.

“I failed. I was pretty much going bankrupt,” Amiot said. “I just decided that if I was going down, I may as well go down with a bang, so let’s do something silly and crazy and outrageous because that’s what you’re supposed to do when you’re an artist.”

Amiot's wife and lontime collaborator, Brigitte Laurent, applies finishing touches to a giant phone. She paints all of Amiot's creations by hand.
Amiot’s wife and lontime collaborator, Brigitte Laurent, applies finishing touches to a giant phone. She paints all of Amiot’s creations by hand.

In early 2001, Amiot made a towering fisherman and put it in his front yard. He thought it might annoy his neighbors, but they loved it.

After the Twin Towers fell on 9/11, Amiot created a sculpture of a firefighter atop a box painted with American flags that went in a neighbor’s yard. Then just about everyone on Florence Avenue wanted a piece of Amiot’s art, and he obliged. The street turned into Amiot’s open-air exhibition space, as visitors came from near and far to see his fantastic creations.

Florence Avenue became the “opposite of a gated community,” Amiot said, a “people’s gallery” where anyone could come at any time and enjoy his art for free.

Laurent, his partner in life and art for more than three decades, has been painting Amiot’s sculptures since he started.

“If it wasn’t for Brigitte, I’d be selling used cars,” he said. “She’s more important than anything else in this whole thing.”

As Amiot’s star has risen, he’s continued to give back to the community.

After seeing kids sell candy bars to raise money for local schools, Amiot wanted to offer an alternative. He began publishing a calendar featuring his art that’s raised about $400,000 for schools in the past seven years.

He’s working with the Sebastopol Police Department on a 12-foot-high cat with amber streetlights for eyes that will implore speeding drivers to slow down in residential neighborhoods.

When he takes a moment to reflect, Amiot marvels at the trajectory of his life. He recalled that years ago, when the Barlow apple-canning factory in Sebastopol was closing, a foreman offered him some 4.5-inch lids. He grabbed a couple of boxes and thanked him, but the foreman said, “Oh no, all or nothing.”

So Amiot took more than 40,000 lids. He’s used them as scales on mermaids and fish, and now is putting them on owls he’s making for The Barlow, a constellation of restaurants, tasting rooms and shops on the former site of the cannery.

“They asked me to take this stuff off the Barlow lot, and now they’re paying me to put it back,” Amiot said. “Isn’t that great?”

Shopping: Don’t Sweat It

It’s finally time to take a breather from work, school and the grind of daily life and enjoy the sunshine. Kick back by the pool, pull out the barbecue grill, throw on your swimsuit and laze around the park in your flip-flops. We insist. But before you check out completely, here’s a list of summer must-haves to help you squeeze just a little more fun out of the season.

~ Cool as a cucumber ~

Meyer Lemon Infused Simple Syrup
Believed to be a cross between a lemon and a mandarin orange, the Meyer lemon is a Wine Country staple. Sweeter and more aromatic than a traditional lemon, the Meyer is perfect for desserts, cocktails and of course, lemonade. Sonoma Syrup Co. blends locally grown botanicals with simple syrup (boiled sugar and water) as a mixer for beverages, to pour on ice cream and blend into marinades. Our favorite summer idea? A cold Meyer lemon syrup granita straight from the freezer.
$13, available online at sonomasyrup.com and at Sonoma Market, 500 W. Napa St., No. 550, Sonoma, 707-996-3411, sonoma-glenellenmkt.com

MilkSoap_silo_optSweet Orange Coconut Milk Soap
Sounding good enough to eat (but not a good idea to do so), Three Sisters Apothecary bar soaps are made in small batches in Sebastopol using traditional soap-making oils, butters and botanicals. Featured in recent Hollywood award-show gift baskets, these fortifying artisan soaps were grabbed up by celebs. We’re especially fond of the refreshing orange and coconut blend that’s light and moisturizing to summer skin, and the Gravenstein apple and clove bar.
$6, available online at soapcauldron.com and at Oliver’s Markets, 461 Stony Point Road, Santa Rosa, 707-284-3530, oliversmarkets.com

Spring Step L’Artiste Socialite Sandals
Consider dipping into the rainy day fund for these adorably summery sandals. With all kinds of flower power, plenty of padding for your tootsies, a comfortable platform heel and eye-catching stitching, you’ll be the belle of any summer ball.
$100, Spring Step Shoes, 725 Village Court, Montgomery Village, Santa Rosa, 707-331-1940

SonomaGrapeseedShea_optAh Shayh Whipped Shea with Sonoma Grapeseed Oil
Wine grapes aren’t just for glasses. Ah Shayh uses grapeseed oil harvested from local vineyards (long valued by Greeks and Egyptians for its healing properties) in its rich and creamy shea butter moisturizing balm. The tiny Sonoma County company partners with a community collective in Northern Ghana to import blocks of raw, unrefined shea nut butter, mixing it with local ingredients for rich and natural summer skin care.
$16, available at ahshayh.com and Whole Foods Markets

~ Barbecues & picnics ~

blackberry-and-orange-_optKozlowski Farms Blackberry Orange Chipotle Sauce
The secret to great grilled food? The marinade, baby. Made with locally grown chiles and fruit, Forestville’s Kozlowski family kicks up the flavor with sweet blackberries, tart orange and smoky chipotle peppers in a sauce that makes salmon and chicken sing. While the grill is heating up, swirl some of the sauce through cream cheese for a sneak-preview appetizer.
$7, Kozlowski Farms, 5566 Gravenstein Highway N., Forestville, 707-887-1587, kozlowskifarms.com

Green_Jar_optGreen Mason Jars
There’s a reason that Ball Mason jars have been around for 100 years: They’re multitaskers. Sure, you’ll want a few dozen for preserving late-summer’s harvest (pickles, jams, tomato sauce and more), but the limited-edition spring green versions of these pint jars are just as useful for serving cold lemonade and iced sweet tea, displaying a bouquet of fresh daisies, and holding forks, knives and napkins at a summer barbecue.
$13 for six, Friedman’s Home Improvement, locations in Santa Rosa, Sonoma and Ukiah, friedmanshome.com

straws_optPaper Straws
Each day, the U.S. uses an estimated 600 million disposable plastic straws. That’s more than 2 billion straws a year, none of which can be recycled. So hipster bartenders and forward-thinking restaurants are turning to paper straws, the sippers that were used at the soda fountain back in the day. Earth-friendly, BPA-free and available in a variety of colors and designs, paper straws are all the rage. Just keep in mind that they’re, well, paper, so they’ll turn into limp noodles if you let them sit in liquid too long.
$8 for a box of 12 dozen, Heirloom Fine Food, 2759 Fourth St., Santa Rosa,707-541-3868, heirloomfinefood.com

Portalupi Vaso di Marina
You know a wine is picnic- and barbecue-friendly when it comes in a milk bottle. Healdsburg’s Portalupi Wine Co. follows an old Italian tradition of filling glass milk bottles with wine for customers to take home, consume, and return the bottle to be refilled. Portalupi bottles its summer white (with flavors of citrus and sandalwood-like spice) in this clever packaging, and it’s perfect for outdoor gatherings — and reusable.
$25, Portalupi Winery, 107 North St., Healdsburg, 707-395-0960, portalupiwine.com

HabaneroSauce_silo_optMateo’s El Yuca Mayan Habañero Sauce
You’ll be feeling hot, hot, hot — in a delicious way, of course — after a few splashes of Mateo Granados’ Yucatan-inspired hot sauce. Using his own-grown Sonoma County chiles, he personally bottles all of his small-batch sauces. Based on his mother’s recipe, this classic Mayan sauce is made with spicy habañero peppers and carrots, local olive oil and vinegar. Dash a few drops on ceviche, eggs and grilled meat to kick up the flavors to 11.
$12, mateogranados.com and Whole Foods stores

~ Outdoor Fun ~

badmitton_optPark & Sun Sports Badminton Pro Set
Badminton is the new Frisbee. Taking its cue from popular outdoor games of the past, this set allows you to snap your shuttlecock and “kill” your opponents just about anywhere, with a portable net, racquets and birdies. For even more fun, grab a few LED shuttlecocks for firefly-like volleys during night games.
$110, Dick’s Sporting Goods, 401 Kenilworth Drive, No. 1030, Petaluma, 707-763-3750, dickssportinggoods.com

bs_1206_xmasgoodies1_l_optSonoma Limoncello
Anyone who’s traveled to the Amalfi coast of Italy has probably spent a warm afternoon sipping limoncello, a traditional lemon-flavored liqueur, at an outdoor cafe. They’ve also probably purchased a bottle of electric-yellow, mass-produced “limoncello” in the U.S., and with disappointing results. Recapture the sunny taste of the Cinque Terre with Hello Cello’s Limoncello di Sonoma, made with locally grown lemons, agave sugar, 170-proof grappa (made from local grapes) and plenty of artisan care.
$26, Hello Cello, 21877 Eighth St. E., Sonoma, 707-721-6390, hellosonoma.com; also available at Bottle Barn, 3331-A Industrial Drive, Santa Rosa, 707-528-1161, bottlebarn.com

Zoku Fish Pop Molds
Something’s fishy about these DIY ice pop molds. With fun shapes including shark, clownfish, octopus, whale and puffer fish, kids (and grown-ups) will fall for them hook, line and sinker. Fill the molds with your own recipe, from pink lemonade to orange juice to adult-friendly, booze-infused liquid, to make your sea creatures unique. After a few licks, the “skeletons” appear underneath, making these summer treats extra fun. The molds are free of BPA and phthalate.
$20, Sur La Table, 2323 Magowan Drive, Montgomery Village, Santa Rosa, 707-566-9820, surlatable.com

surlabranchskewer_optSur La Table Nonstick Branch Skewer
Forget about looking around the campground for a stick. S’mores-making gets a whole lot easier with this branched, carbon-steel skewer that can handle 10 marshmallows at a time. There’s no burning of fingers, no going up in flames if a perfectly toasted marshmallow drops into the embers. It’s also great for hot dogs and playing keep-away with your little brother’s favorite hat.
$9, Sur La Table, 2323 Magowan Drive, Montgomery Village, Santa Rosa, 707-566-9820, surlatable.com

Be a Happy Camper

Chanell Adamson and her daughter, Tilly, 3 (photos by Chris Hardy)

It’s camping for lightweights who like the sensation of sleeping in nature without sacrificing creature comforts like a real bed and available running water.

Forget the bedroll and mummy bag. Bring on the Tempur-Pedic mattress and Egyptian-cotton sheets.

Over the past few years a proliferation of glammed-up tents, cabins and vintage travel trailers have given rise to a new, upscale class of camping. Already codified in the Oxford English Dictionary, “glamping” is bringing pampered urbanites closer to nature and providing relief for midlifers and seasoned baby boomers who love the crackle of a campfire on a still night in the forest, but can no longer bear the thought of packing all that gear, pitching a tent and fighting for sleep on the cold, pitiless ground.


Glamour camping tent cabins overlook the giraffe enclosure at Safari West northeast of Santa Rosa.

Safari West, the 400-acre exotic animal preserve northeast of Santa Rosa, was one of the first tourist destinations to offer tent cabins with heated blankets and designer furnishings, handcrafted by owner Peter Lang.

Before the term “glamping” caught on, Safari West didn’t know how to explain to prospective guests wary of roughing it that the heavy canvas tent cabins, made in Botswana for safaris and outfitted with lamps, African art, heaters, bathrooms and hardwood floors, are not the typical straight-wall, polyester family camping tents.

“That word finally helped me to identify our tents. We used to say ‘rustic’ but still would get people not wanting to spend the night,” said Aphrodite Caserta, who does marketing for the preserve. “Since the word came into use, it’s helped me identify our accommodations.”

The view from a cabin porch at Safari West.
The view from a cabin porch at Safari West.

The spacious cabins are set on platforms. From the front deck you can savor coffee at sunrise while gazing out at nuzzling giraffes. No need for mom to boil hot dogs on a Coleman stove: Just herd the family down to the Savannah Café for a buffet dinner feast served around an African boma-style firepit, then retire to the Flamingo Terrace for wine and pink-bird watching.

“There’s no TV, no nothing. You’re there with each other,” said Mary Packard, an avowed noncamper who came from Palmdale for a “safari” with her family. “You can talk and not worry about your
cellphone going off. You’re just there with the animal sounds.”

The bathroom, with mesh vents, can be cold in the morning. But the sounds of exotic birds cawing, cooing and screeching in the night creates a soothing symphony by which to fall asleep.

With summer/fall rates at Safari West ranging from $240 to $335 a night, glamping is not necessarily a budget option. But cost savings isn’t what appeals to glampers.

On the northern Sonoma coast, guests happily pay $150 to $250 a night for one of two 10-by-12-foot “canvas cottages” with queen beds, maintained on a private knoll near the Stewarts Point Store.

Wood stoves and solar-heated water on demand make outdoor living easy. Tent flaps open to a wood deck with Southern-style porch rockers and unobstructed views of the coastal palisades and blue Pacific waters.

“You can sit and watch the ocean for hours and not be bothered,” said Suzanne Reynolds, whose boyfriend, Charles Richardson, runs the store and campsite. “It’s typically people who want a different experience. Maybe they want to camp but they don’t want to get dirty or do anything. It’s almost like they’re treating themselves, the same as going out for a fancy dinner. Here, you don’t have to do or pack a thing. You can just come up and crawl into bed.”

The most requested lodging at the Metro Hotel in Petaluma are not the French shabby-chic rooms done up with thrift-shop finds, but rather the two Bambi-model Airstream travel trailers in back ($109 a night). Set up beside a square of AstroTurf inhabited by kitschy pink flamingos, it’s urban glamping at its best. The small trailers have that retro, silver-bullet cool, but are shiny new with flat-screen TVs, surround sound, morning pastries and maid service.

Laura Waterhouse and her glamping pals gather at sundown at the Cloverdale KOA.
Laura Waterhouse and her glamping pals gather at sundown at the Cloverdale KOA.

Serious glampers buy their own vintage trailers and trick them out with customized decor.

“We’re getting old. We’re in our 50s. We love to camp but decided, ‘Let’s get out of a tent,’” Laura Waterhouse said. The 51-year-old glamper from Cloverdale and her boyfriend, Nick Uribe, have two 1960s-era Shasta travel trailers, one done up in a groovy mod look, complete with lava lamp and atomic clock. Others go for Southwest and cowboy themes, or midcentury modern.

“Remember when you were very little and always trying to get away from the family, building forts and treehouses?” Waterhouse said, reaching for words to explain the nostalgic appeal of these cute tin cans that represent the blissful summer vacations of youth. “You were just trying to find your space. When we got ours it was like, ‘Oh, my gosh. We have our clubhouse.’”

 

Dinner with a Side of Music

There’s a casual, festive atmosphere for summer concertgoers seated on the terrace and lawn, as seen through the opening at the rear of Weill Hall. (photo by Alvin Jornada)

A show at the Green Music Center, with its phenomenal acoustics and spectacular views of Sonoma Mountain, is one of Wine Country’s newest and most engaging indulgences. From the concert hall itself, with its high windows that bring the landscape to the audience, to the terrace and gently sloping lawn, which are open during summer and fall shows, every seat offers something special. And the dining options are equally enticing, particularly this time of year, when food service extends outdoors.

Helen Dunn, left, Carolyn Rausch and Nancy Lyons chat over cocktails in the bar at Prelude.
Helen Dunn, left, Carolyn Rausch and Nancy Lyons chat over cocktails in the bar at Prelude.

Prelude is the center’s premier eatery, overseen by longtime local restaurateur Josef Keller. It is open to everyone, not just concertgoers, whenever there is a performance. A meal at Prelude is a performance in itself, a feat of precise choreography necessary to give customers a leisurely meal and also get them out the door in time for the show, or to seat a full house immediately following a daytime performance. This is accomplished, in part, by executive chef Eric Lee’s simple fixed-price menu, which includes just four starters, four entrees and three desserts, all of which change with the seasons. Prices are streamlined, too: $35 for two courses, $45 for three.

When it comes to specific menu items, selections have included butter lettuce salad with Green Goddess dressing; grilled calamari salad; slow-cooked lamb poutine (a Canadian extravaganza of French fries, cheese curds and gravy); wild Pacific king salmon with tomato vinaigrette and summer vegetables; and pork loin braised in milk and served with polenta, caponata and broccoli rabe. Dessert options always include a plate of local cheeses.

The wine and beer list is similarly focused, though it offers more choices. With just two exceptions — Dow’s 30 Year Tawny Port and Blue Moon Belgian White Ale from Colorado — all selections are regional and most are from Sonoma and Napa.

The restaurant and its lounge area remain open during and after performances; now and then a group of Sonoma State University students wanders over from the dorms to enjoy a beer and perhaps catch a bit of the show on the bar’s closed-circuit television. Prelude’s patio is open during the summer season.

The Dining Terrace, nestled between the vast lawn and the concert hall itself, offers full-service meals by Elaine Bell Catering during summer and early-fall concerts. Diners select this option when they purchase concert tickets and make their menu choices at that time. Seats on the Dining Terrace typically run about $50, with dinner an additional $65 to $85, plus beverages.

During intermissions, several beverage and concession carts in the hall’s lobby offer refreshments, including local sparkling wine by the glass.

Valerie Hesse, right, of Santa Rosa, joined friends Julie Paille and Emma Stone on the lawn for the Green Music Center's 2013 Fourth of July Celebration.
Valerie Hesse, right, of Santa Rosa, joined friends Julie Paille and Emma Stone on the lawn for the Green Music Center’s 2013 Fourth of July Celebration.

If you opt for lawn seating for, say, Elvis Costello and the Imposters’ Sept. 3 appearance, or the Ben Harper show on Sept. 13, a box lunch can be ordered when lawn tickets are purchased. But what if you have no idea what you want to eat until the moment you are actually hungry? Not to worry, there are plenty of on-the-spot options.

For big-name performances, concession stands are added throughout the venue. This year, ice cream joins the lineup of snacks and full meals that were offered last year.

“We’re adding more options this year,” Ryan Ernst, the Green Music Center’s director of marketing, said, “with smaller carts and kiosks closer to the lawn so that people don’t have to go so far for refreshments.”

There’s even a kiosk, a little storefront of sorts, that offers a range of items for those who prefer to create their own picnic. Guests can also carry in their own food, but beverages, including wine and beer, must be purchased on-site. Water stations are located throughout the center.

Green Music Center at Sonoma State University, 1801 E. Cotati Ave., Rohnert Park, 866-955-6040, gmc.sonoma.edu

There’s Something About Merry

Merry Edwards with a cat
“It’s wonderful to reflect on my years in this industry and feel that I have really contributed,” says Merry Edwards, a mentor to many up-and-coming winemakers. (photo by Connor Jay)

Merry Edwards doesn’t suffer fools gladly.

The founding winemaker of her namesake winery in Sebastopol has laser-sharp focus and high expectations, according to those who know her best: winemakers she has mentored.

An array of wines made by Merry Edwards, photographed at her winery in Sebastopol.
An array of wines made by Merry Edwards, photographed at her winery in Sebastopol. (photo by Ben Miller)

“Merry has super-high standards, but she’s very clear with her communication and she’s very clear with her protocol,” said Julia Iantosca, winemaker of Lasseter Family Winery in Glen Ellen. “If Merry has laid it out clearly and you don’t do it, she won’t be happy and no one would be.”

Off-putting? Not to a number of winemakers who have the deepest respect for Edwards, with several calling her attention to detail “unparalleled.”

Edwards, 66, won a James Beard Award in 2013 in the category of Outstanding Wine, Spirits or Beer Professional. That same year, she was inducted into the Vintners Hall of Fame at the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone in St. Helena. With more than four decades in the wine industry, she said the Beard Award was a great milestone.

“It’s wonderful to reflect on my years in this industry and feel that I have really contributed,” Edwards said of the honor. “Somehow I didn’t really register my accomplishments along the way, but now I do. It makes me feel proud of all my hard work, discipline and dedication.”

Many credit Edwards for breaking through the glass ceiling for female winemakers during the 1970s, when many women believed the furthest they could go in a wine career was working in a winery lab. She became the winemaker at Mount Eden Vineyards in the Santa Cruz Mountains in 1974 and after three years was hired to design Matanzas Creek Winery in Santa Rosa and be its first winemaker.

“I don’t actually feel like I ‘broke through’ anything,” Edwards said. “I just persisted and wouldn’t go away. Once I started studying, I saw my future in this field and pursued my dream. I feel that living by example is the best way to make change happen.”

Edwards has made an imprint on many of those she’s mentored, instilling in them a synergy between persistence and passion. The most important lesson she hopes to pass on to a winemaker, she said, is to resist the temptation toward arrogance.

“It’s important to be open to learning at least one new thing you can apply each year, either in the winery or vineyard,” she explained. “Never feel like you know it all.”

Yet her wisdom has taken others far in their winemaking careers.

Julia Iantosca
Julia Iantosca

Julia Iantosca
Winemaker of Lasseter Family Winery in Glen Ellen; independent wine consultant

Edwards was a pivotal role model for women in the wine industry, particularly for Julia Iantosca, who considers Edwards both a mentor and friend.

“Merry was able to ‘work smart’ and demonstrate that women were every bit as capable as a man to work in a wine cellar,” Iantosca said. Edwards’ curiosity also made quite an impression on her.

“She’s always looking at new ways to improve her winemaking,” Iantosca explained. “During any given vintage, she has about a half-dozen experiments going.”

The two worked together for 12 years, from 1993 to 2005, at Healdsburg’s Lambert Bridge Winery. But it was during the 1995 harvest that Iantosca was particularly grateful for Edwards’ support. Iantosca was pregnant and had to leave earlier than expected on maternity leave. Edwards jumped in to back her up.

“She was a mom and she knew life doesn’t stop,” Iantosca said. “You just do what you have to do. Merry was the first winemaker I knew who had kids.”

Jeff Stewart
Winemaker, Hartford Family Winery, Forestville

Edwards knows a thing or two about handling the finicky Pinot Noir grape and Stewart found that aspect of his mentor particularly compelling.

“She got me started down the road to making great Pinot Noir,” Stewart said. “Merry was key in making me think about the artistic, free-form elements in Pinot Noir while still respecting the attention to the details and structure that are required to make great wine.”

Stewart and Edwards worked side by side at Laurier winery (now Hartford Family) in 1990, he as assistant winemaker. Stewart later managed the custom-crush work for Edwards’ clients at Graton’s Mark West Wines and Kunde Family Estate in Kenwood.

Stewart said Edwards’ teachings continue to come through the wines he makes today.

“These wines have a great combination of precision, concentration and vineyard personality, which mirrors Merry’s personality,” he said. “She’s very focused and detail-oriented with an artistic side.”

Scot Covington, whom Edwards mentored, samples wine from a barrel at Trione Vineyards and Winery in Geyserville. Covington has made wine with the Trione family since 2005.
Scot Covington, whom Edwards mentored, samples wine from a barrel at Trione Vineyards and Winery in Geyserville. Covington has made wine with the Trione family since 2005. (photo by Christopher Chung)

Scot Covington
Winemaker, Trione Vineyards and Winery, Geyserville

According to Covington, Edwards’ understanding of Mother Nature made a lasting impression on him.

“My winemaking philosophy is reminiscent of Merry: guided by nature,” Covington said. “The hand of the winemaker is light but instinctively
direct.”

Edwards hired Covington in 2001 as winemaker for Pellegrini Family Vineyards in Santa Rosa, where he worked directly with her for three years. What sets Edwards apart, Covington said, is her drive.

“I think Merry is a person who knew she had to be better than her competition to succeed and she had to work harder to prove it,” he said. “I think she is also a person where failure is not an option and there is no plan B.”

Mike Gulyash
Winemaker, Zichichi Family Vineyard, Healdsburg

Edwards’ blend of skill, wisdom and craft is what impressed Gulyash most when he worked for her.

“She was and is one of the most focused people I’ve ever known, with an amazing ability to keep a huge number of details in front of her,” he said. “She can be so detailed and yet never lose sight of the global aspect. That included everything from vineyard through bottling, marketing, etc.”

Edwards, then a consulting winemaker, hired Gulyash as winemaker at B.R. Cohn Winery in Glen Ellen in 1995 and they worked together through 1999.

“I had to be really prepared for her visits and always anticipate what she might throw at me,” Gulyash said. “I was gratified when she expressed to me that I was always well-prepared for her.”

Gulyash said he considers himself fortunate to have worked with Edwards, a woman who always meets obstacles with grace.

“Merry always had the time to offer her experience and energy,” Gulyash said. “She was rarely given an easy road to travel, yet tried to make the same path smooth for those who followed.”

“Merry has super-high standards, but she’s very clear with her communication …”

Merry Edwards’ winemaking alumni

Christine Benz
Winemaker, Laird Family Estate, Napa

Greg Brewer
Co-founder and winemaker, Brewer-Clifton, Lompoc

Gove Celio
Winemaker, Neal Family Vineyards, Napa

Scot Covington
Winemaker, Trione Vineyards & Winery, Geyserville

John Giannini
Winemaker and enology lecturer, Fresno State University

Mike Gulyash
Winemaker, Zichichi Family Vineyard, Healdsburg

Julia Iantosca
Winemaker, Lasseter Family Winery, Glen Ellen; independent wine consultant

Greg La Follette
Founder and winemaker, La Follette Wines, Sebastopol

Christina Pallman
Co-founder and winemaker, CP Monopole, Fulton

Scott Rich
Founder and winemaker, Talisman Wines, Glen Ellen

Leslie Sisneros
Winemaker, Ispiri Wines, Healdsburg

Jeff Stewart
Winemaker, Hartford Family Winery, Forestville

The Call of the Wild – Pacific King Salmon

Gin-cured salmon on potato-chive blini with crème fraîche and trout roe makes for a delectable treat at Farmhouse Inn in Forestville. (photography by Chris Hardy)

From early May through late summer, wild Pacific king salmon from the California coast is one of our most beloved and healthiest indulgences. It’s cured, smoked, slowly roasted, poached in olive oil, grilled indoors and out, enjoyed raw in tartare and ceviche, savored in creamy chowder and offered on menus throughout Wine Country. Salmon is the centerpiece of many a feast and festival throughout its season.

It is the salmon’s lifestyle that makes it both delicious and full of nutrients. For most of its life, this marine carnivore swims in the open ocean, building firm muscle tone and — assuming one of its favorite foods, krill, is abundant — developing the red flesh and deep flavor that aficionados love. Its activity and diet create the healthful omega-3 fatty acids for which salmon is praised by nutritionists. The native salmon’s farmed sibling, which is confined and fed a manufactured diet, does not have the wild fish’s firm flesh, nor is it naturally high in omega-3.

Chef Andrew Truong’s blackened salmon is served atop a medley of roasted summer vegetables and farro at Terrapin Creek in Bodega Bay.
Chef Andrew Truong’s blackened salmon is served atop a medley of roasted summer vegetables and farro at
Terrapin Creek in Bodega Bay.

Heading into the 2014 salmon season, anticipation of a good and possibly great year burbled within the West Coast fishing community. There were plenty of krill and another salmon tasty treat, anchovies, were plentiful. Shortly before the commercial salmon season opened on May 1, counts showed nearly 1 million adult fish, up from 46,000 in 2009, which was a dismal season for both the local fishery and hungry customers.

These adults, the ones more than 22 inches in length (smaller salmon must be returned, unharmed, to the sea) are between 3 and 5 years old. By late summer many will begin their journey back to their place of birth to spawn and die. The majority of Northern California salmon spawn in the Sacramento River system; their offspring feed and grow in the tributaries until they’re ready to migrate into the Pacific. And the cycle begins again.

Most of the salmon that will be caught in 2014 were hatched in 2011, a wet year when creeks and rivers ran high during spawning season. In this 2014 drought year, the fish will likely encounter hostile conditions as they make their way upstream from the ocean. Even if the fish manage to make it to their spawning ground, their eggs might not survive a hot summer; if water temperatures rise above 56 degrees for more than three days, the eggs will likely die.

For salmon lovers, this means that while the 2014 season appears to be bountiful, the future is murky.

“The current drought will impact the 2017 salmon season,” explained John McManus, executive director of the Golden Gate Salmon Association, “as there will likely be little water and high temperatures this fall. We might as well eat up now.”

The wild salmon from the local fishery, which stretches from Oregon to the coast of Central California, provides nearly all of the fresh wild Pacific king salmon (also known as chinook) to make it to market, McManus said. There is a small number of Pacific kings near the mouth of the Columbia River on the Oregon-Washington border, but few, if any, of them show up in Sonoma markets. Other salmon found in stores, much of which is available year-round, has been either frozen or farmed.

Local salmon is at its absolute best when it is prepared soon after it’s caught. During the past decade, those who fish professionally for salmon have perfected their post-catch techniques so that the fish reach the shore in near-perfect condition. The salmon are then transported to local markets; this not only puts very fresh fish on the table, it also makes a much smaller carbon footprint than fish that travel greater distances.

McManus offered an important piece of advice for home cooks salivating for salmon.

“It is really, really easy to overcook salmon,” he said, adding “the secret is to take it off the heat before it is done, as it keeps cooking.”

The other option is, of course, to let someone else do the cooking.

What to Drink with Fresh Salmon

Russian Hill Estate Winery 2013 Patio Pink Dry Rosé Russian River Valley: This blend of Pinot Noir and Syrah has beautiful acidity that counters the richness of salmon. Syrah adds a whisper of spice that engages the smoky flavors from grilling. ($14)

Francis Ford Coppola Votre Santé California Pinot Noir: This ethereal wine is one of the finest low-priced Pinot Noirs available. Its fresh red-cherry fruit and gentle tannins create a fine foundation for succulent salmon. ($14)

Iron Horse Vineyards 2009 Commander’s Palace Cuvée Green Valley of Russian River Valley: Any well-made sparkling wine goes beautifully with salmon, but this one has a festive vermilion color and is a tad racy, with feisty spice and hints of smoke. ($50)

Flocchini Wines 2012 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir: This elegant Pinot Noir from the Petaluma Gap area of the Sonoma Coast appellation is both rich and delicate, and a great choice for grilled and smoked salmon. ($26)

Moonlight Brewing Lunatic Lager: Big, hoppy India Pale Ales are all the rage, but this lager from Santa Rosa’s Moonlight Brewing is a far better choice with salmon. It’s crisp and refreshing, with subtle toast and yeast character that enhances rather than overwhelming salmon’s subtle flavors. Sold only in kegs; look for it in restaurants.

 Fishermen in Bodega Bay prepare their boats in April in anticipation of the opening of the 2014 commercial salmon season.

Fishermen in Bodega Bay prepare their boats in April in anticipation of the opening of the 2014 commercial salmon season.

Where to eat local salmon

Many Wine Country restaurants serve local salmon in mouthwatering ways. Here are just a few:

Barndiva
Ryan Fancher, the chef de cuisine, serves salmon carpaccio — thin, raw slices — with beet vinaigrette, horseradish crème fraîche, caviar and roasted fingerling potato chips. He also slowly bakes salmon in the oven, basting it with olive oil as it cooks, and serves the succulent fillet with fried squash blossoms, summer corn, gnocchi and basil pistou.
Barndiva, 231 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-431-0100, barndiva.com

Farmhouse Inn
A favorite presentation of executive chef Steve Litke involves curing salmon in gin from Spirit Works Distillery in Sebastopol. After curing, thin slices are draped over potato-chive blini, topped with a dollop of salmon or trout roe and presented as a complimentary amuse bouche. Sometimes a main dish begins with ground Lapsang souchong, a smoked black tea, mixed with good salt and rubbed into a fillet that is grilled and served over roasted beets spiked with coriander and citrus and finished with fresh garden greens.
Farmhouse Inn, 7871 River Road, Forestville, 707-887-3300, farmhouseinn.com

Glen Ellen Star
Proprietor and chef Ari Weiswasser encases a whole salmon in a salt crust and roasts it in a 500-degree wood-burning oven, a technique that makes an already succulent fish even more luscious. After the cooked salmon rests, he cracks open the salt shell, lifts out the fish and serves it with a padron chile criolla mild salsa.
Glen Ellen Star, 13648 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen, 707-343-1381, glenellenstar.com

La Toque
Ken Frank, executive chef and owner of La Toque, features local salmon from the beginning to the end of its season, which sometimes extends into early fall. Currently, his favorite preparation is mi-cuit, French for “half-cooked.” He does a light cure of the salmon, slices it thin and then places the salmon on a warm plate, along with braised fennel, Asian pear, cured Meyer lemon and smoked dill salt.
La Toque, 1314 McKinstry St., Napa, 707-257-5157, latoque.com

Madrona Manor
Executive chef Jesse Mallgren slowly poaches local salmon in red wine and beet juice, resulting in a glossy scarlet sheen on the succulent fish, which he finishes with a bit of horseradish. Another presentation pairs pan-roasted salmon with black truffles from Australia and tiny haricots verts from the restaurant’s garden.
Madrona Manor, 1001 Westside Road, Healdsburg, 800-258-4003, madronamanor.com

Terrapin Creek
This diminutive Michelin-starred café is so close to Bodega Harbor that Pacific king salmon can practically jump into the kitchen, though chefs and owners Liya Lin and Andrew Truong make the short drive to The Tides Wholesale Seafood for the freshest fish. In midsummer, they might use salmon in a savory stew with tomato, fennel and clams, or blackened and served atop a medley of roasted summer vegetables and farro.
Terrapin Creek, 150 Eastshore Road, Bodega Bay, 707-875-2700, terrapincreekcafe.com

Like Wine

Summer is a good time to spend less money on wine, since most whites, rosés and lighter reds tend to go easier on the pocketbook. Deliciousness, on the other hand, is in full supply. Summer is a wine lover’s time to revel in a generosity of straightforward, fruity flavors that don’t demand overthinking, nor service with fancy foods.

PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO FOR PICNICS

If you like this wine:

Uvaggio 2013 Napa Valley Zelo Bianco White Wine ($20)
A proprietary white blend comprised primarily of Pinot Gris, with the rest the unusual Traminer and Moscato Giallo, this wine is both refreshing and substantial, with floral aromas, minerality and lush flavors of ripe pear and lemon.

Then try this wine:

Chloe 2013 Valdadige D.O.C.  Italy Pinot Grigio ($17)
Chloe is a new wine collection of mostly California wines developed and made by California-based winemaker Georgetta Dane, who is also the “warden,” or winemaker, of the Big House wine brand. Here, she’s crafted a crisp, classic Pinot Grigio from northern Italian grapes, full of honeysuckle, Meyer lemon and peach flavors.

ROSE FOR BEACH DAYS

If you like this wine:

Kale 2013 Napa Valley Rosé ($22)
A classically yummy combination of 62% Grenache and 38% Syrah, this is a dry, crisp, refreshing rosé, awash in flavors of just-picked raspberries. The wine bursts with a kick of minerality on the finish.

Then try this wine:

Pedroncelli 2013 Dry Creek Valley Dry Rosé of Zinfandel ($12)
Packed with Zinfandel’s signature berry goodness, this wine goes down easy, dancing in moderate acidity and completely thirst-quenching. Pack a bottle for a day at the beach and treasure it with a sandwich or summer salad.

ZINFANDEL FOR BARBECUES

If you like this wine:

Ravenswood 2011 Belloni Vineyard Russian River Valley Zinfandel ($35)
From vines planted around 1900, this wine is dark and brooding, with crushed blackberries and jam, traces of tobacco and leather, smooth tannins and finely built structure. From a cool site in a cool year, it has elegance to spare.

Then try this wine:

Dry Creek Vineyard 2012 Heritage Vines Sonoma County Zinfandel ($20)
Rich and exuberant in substantial fruit and tannin, this is a great barbecue wine. It offers refined blueberry and baking spice character and is ridiculously gulpable. Fifteen percent Petite Sirah adds structure and pleasant earthiness. Pour it for a crowd of two or 200. All will be happy.

GRENACHE FOR THE GARDEN PARTY

If you like this wine:

McCay Cellars 2011 Lodi Grenache ($32)
If you’re aching to taste what potential lies in Rhone varieties from Lodi, start with this Grenache. It’s a restrained version, resplendent in cranberry and Rainier cherry fruit with smooth, herbal layers that linger for a long time.

Then try this wine:

Anaba 2011 Turbine Red Sonoma County Grenache-Mourvedre-Syrah ($24)
A blend of 45% Grenache, 28% Mourvedre and 27% Syrah from two vineyards (Landa and Bismark), this Rhone red is a mouthful of tantalizing white pepper, earthy meat and spicy cherry. It’s soft, smooth and perfect for charcuterie.

What Happened to Sebastopol’s Gravenstein Apples?

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Sebastopol was once known as the “Gravenstein Apple Capital of the World.” In 1953, there were more than 15,000 acres devoted to apples and fewer than 12,000 acres to wine grapes. Today, there are less than a dozen farmers who make a living selling Gravensteins, yet winegrowing has exploded.

So what happened?

Gravenstein apples on one of the 70-year-old apple trees at Horse and Plow winery in Sebastopol, California on Wednesday, July 27, 2016. (Alvin Jornada
Gravenstein apples on one of the 70-year-old apple trees at Horse and Plow winery in Sebastopol.(Alvin Jornada)

It turns out the fragile Gravenstein doesn’t travel well. It ripens early and often arrives at stores bruised and overripe, compared to the much heartier Red Delicious and Granny Smith varieties. More importantly, it doesn’t yield as much money per acre as the almighty wine grape.

More than a half-century past its heyday, the Gravenstein is a novelty hand fruit and pie filler, with a local Slow Food chapter devoted to its heritage and preservation. Some local cider makers are doing their best to extend the variety’s lifespan.

Apple trees blossom in an orchard along Bodega Highway, near Holte Lane, west of Sebastopol on Monday, March 31, 2014. (Christopher Chung
Apple trees blossom in an orchard along Bodega Highway, near Holte Lane, west of Sebastopol. (Christopher Chung)

With that in mind, the annual Gravenstein Apple Fair at Sebastopol’s Ragle Ranch Regional Park celebrates a bygone era, when the Gravenstein was the crown jewel of western Sonoma agriculture.

Austin Beckman, 8, helps his family sell their apple from Walker Apple Farm during the Gravenstein Apple Fair in Sebastopol on Saturday, August 8, 2014. (Conner Ja
Austin Beckman, 8, helps his family sell their apple from Walker Apple Farm during the Gravenstein Apple Fair in Sebastopol. (Conner Jay)

Consider that:

Russians brought the first Gravenstein seedlings to the U.S., to Fort Ross, in the early 1800s.

In 1883, Nathaniel Griffith planted the first commercial Gravenstein orchard on Laguna Road.

By 1887, the Hunt brothers opened the first cannery in Santa Rosa, followed by at least a dozen canneries that would process apples in Sonoma. Now, only Manzana Products, in Sebastopol, remains.

In the 1960s and ‘70s, Dutton Ranch farmed 600 acres of Gravensteins and other varieties in Sebastopol. Today, the Duttons farm just 200 acres of apples, selling them mostly for processing at Manzana or Martinelli’s in Watsonville for sparkling cider.

By 2012, only 2,195 acres of apples remained in Sonoma, dwarfed by 58,349 acres of grapes.

To experience a taste of old Sebastopol, attend the Gravenstein Apple Fair, which includes pie-, applesauce- and caramel-apple eating contests.

Gravenstein Apple Fair, Ragle Ranch Regional Park, 500 Ragle Road, Sebastopol, 707 823-7262, gravensteinapplefair.com, Save the date: August 12 & 13, 2017

ohn Simmons, age 12, right, and his sister Katherine, age 8, compete in the second round of the apple pie eating contest at the Gravenstein Apple Fair in Sebastopol, California, on August 8, 2015.  Gravenstein Apple Fair Alvin Jornada
ohn Simmons, age 12, right, and his sister Katherine, age 8, compete in the second round of the apple pie eating contest at the Gravenstein Apple Fair in Sebastopol. (Alvin Jornada)

Nosh away at these summer events

It isn’t summer without a couple of intimate(ish) outdoor concert venues featuring great shows, but more importantly great food and wine. We’re smitten with Glen Ellen’s Broadway Under the Stars series, featuring favorite tunes from Broadway and beyond with actual Broadway actors. Get there early for noshes from Tips Tri-Tip, Ultra Crepes, Palooza Catering, Cookie Take a Bite (best chocolate chip cookies ever), Glen Ellen Star, Fork Catering and wine from dozens of local wineries. Tickets and details online.

Meanwhile, the Rodney Strong Summer Concert Series hosts Chris Botti, Chris Isaak and Mindi Abair in their outdoor green. Wine flows, picnics are welcome and the winery serves up tasty bites before the show. Details online(https://www.rodneystrong.com/).

Vignette to Open in Barlow

pizzaoven
A new wood-fired pizza oven will be the centerpiece of the forthcoming Vignette pizzeria in Sebastopol

So what’s the difference between Neapolitan, Sicilian, New York and California-style pizzas? Like barbecue, you’ll get a different answer depending on who you ask, but the forthcoming Vignette (6750 McKinley St., The Barlow) is definitely in the Neapolitan category.

Defined as having a very thin crust, minimal toppings (compared to meat-laden American pizzas) and cooked at a very high heat in a wood-fired pizza oven, Neapolitan ‘zas pizzas are pretty familiar in Wine Country. New York pies are a larger take on the Neapolitan, while the Sicilian version is thicker, deeper and typically square.

Now that you’re thoroughly schooled, Chef Mark Hopper’s menu at Vignette will include pizzas like The Manhattan, with San Marzano tomatoes, chopped clams, buffalo mozzarella and chili oil. Other dishes include nduja flatbread with arugula, red onion and Grana Padano cheese and fire roasted vegetables.

GM Michael Zwicklbauer (formerly of The Restaurant at Meadowood and Farmshop Marin) will run a carefully curated beer, wine and coffee list. The best news: Nothing on the menu will be over $20.

Look for a late July opening (6750 McKinley St., Sebastopol).