Personal style can be as distinctive as a glass of wine. In Sonoma, wine preferences are particular – similar to personal taste in fashion.
Wine tasting at Ferrari-Carano with friends. I’m wearing a striped dress from Ooh La Loft.
This summer, my best friend and I can’t wait to check out the Champagne tasting room Sigh, in Sonoma. Since she’s a photographer, she’ll be snapping away, so of course I’m already thinking about what I’m going to wear.
Whether you’re headed to your favorite winery with friends or a visitor sipping your way through our incredible wine region, expect to see folks donning chic looks for wine tasting.
This season’s fashion trends are perfect for wine tasting. I’ve got my eye on pairing denim capris with an off the-shoulder top or wearing a maxi dress with my cropped jean jacket.
I teamed up with local shopping destinations, Santa Rosa Plaza and Petaluma Village Premium Outlets, to discover on-trend inspirations for fantastic wine tasting fashions.
Love Local The Santa Rosa Plaza features more than 120 stores, including Ooh La Loft, owned by Petaluma twin sisters Cristina Wilson Hudlin and Michelle Wilson Bien. The boutique offers bohemian and vintage pieces featuring layered lace, fringe galore and chunky statement necklaces.
Classic, Comfortable and Chic
Look for breathable materials and layered textures that are perfect for our changing weather in Sonoma. Grab a mid-thigh sweater or light jacket, a length that is flattering for many body types. And don’t forget a lightweight scarf – a versatile summer accessory that adds a pop of texture or color to a neutral outfit.
Available at Macy’s, Santa Rosa Plaza
Dressed to Impress
Head to the Petaluma Village Premium Outlets, where shoppers can expect discounts of 25 to 65 percent off at 60 luxury and popular outlet retailers. Wine tasting is all about savoring sips in outdoor settings which is an ideal backdrop for this season’s florals, pleated dresses, suede platform sandals and tribal prints.
Available at Express Factory Outlet, Petaluma Village Premium Outlets
For the Gents – Classic with a Modern Twist
Men’s choices for summer wine tasting include classic chinos and 1950s-inspired shirts with broad collars. Guys can’t go wrong when they channel the color blue. Think navy and nautical.
Available at Express Factory Outlet, Petaluma Village Premium Outlets
Santa Rosa Plaza is located just off Highway 101 at the Downtown Santa Rosa exit, while Petaluma Village Premium Outlets is just 15 miles south of the Plaza right off Highway 101.
For perhaps the first time in human history, music festival goers can say, “I’m just here for the lamb butchery.”
But it probably won’t be the last, since chef-tertainment — chefs as rock star entertainers — are one of the hottest trends at summer music festivals like this week’s BottleRock, San Francisco’s Outside Lands, Coachella and the recently-announced Desert Trip. Taking top billing next to music icons, chefs have become high profile attractions in their own right, thanks to the Food Network, Top Chef and Chopped.
Napa’s BottleRock, however, has taken the cake this year, with an expansive culinary stage featuring chefs Masaharu Morimoto, Tyler Florence, Gorden Ramsay, Michael Voltaggio, along with local toques including Chris Cosentino, Michael Mina, Curtis DiFede and Sonoma County’s own Ari Weiswasser. Paired up with acts like Greenday, Cheech & Chong, drummer Taylor Hawkins of the FooFighters, Grouplove and NFL stars Dwight Clark, Charles Woodson and Vernon Davis, the focus is on food-focused entertainment rather than serious cooking.
“Chef-tertainers” or celebrity chefs have become high profile attractions at music festivals. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
And the aforementioned lamb butchery.
It all makes perfect sense, considering Wine Country’s draw for food and wine. But it’s also about the continual rise of chefs as entertainers.
“I’m gonna blame Top Chef for this,” said Glen Ellen Star Chef Ari Weiswasser. Though he’s no stranger to media attention for his culinary skills, Weiswasser admits he’s not a performer.
“There’s a lot of entertainment value here, and general interest in food and chefs is the highest I can remember,” he said. There’s also the whole spectacle of breaking down a whole lamb on stage, in front of hundreds of festival-goers, assisted by three football players, which Weiswasser will attempt to do on Sunday on the Williams-Sonoma Culinary Stage at BottleRock.
“It’s live and something is going to go wrong,” he said. “But its a microcosm of your restaurant, and you have to just react. I’ve (butchered) a thousand lambs, but I might screw it up. If I give Vernon Davis a hacksaw and he’s doing a great job butchering, I’m gonna have to ask him why he’s so comfortable with a hacksaw,” Weiswasser joked.
At last year’s BottleRock, one of the most popular acts on the culinary stage was Chef Morimoto teamed up with rapper and cannabis activist Snoop Dogg. The theme for the demo: Rolling Skills, be it sushi or otherwise. When given a piece of dried seaweed and some rice, Dogg nailed the roll and Morimoto took a shot a singing. Suffice to say, both probably should stick to their day jobs, but it made for a great show.
Chef Morimoto teamed up with rapper and cannabis activist Snoop Dogg at BottleRock 2015. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
So how do organizers get a synchronicity between chefs and performers, or even know which chefs to pick?
“You start with the chefs,” said Dave Graham, CEO of Latitude 38 Entertainment, which organizes the BottleRock festival. Graham and his management team simply sit aroundthrowing out “the craziest ideas ever”, maybe doing an internet search on what kind of food a certain band likes, said Graham, “It’s just sitting down and spitballing. Most of it sticks, some of it doesn’t,” he said.
He explained the choice of San Francisco chef Chris Cosentino, known for his love of meats, offal and irreverent sensibilities. “I’ve had his food, and there’s always smoke component to it,” said Graham. Who likes smoking things? Thursday night performers Cheech and Chong. Suddenly, it’s a match made in heaven. Or at least a really promising blind date. The trio will ad lib their way through a half hour of entertainment on the Williams-Sonoma Culinary Stage on Friday, from 3:45 to 4:15 p.m., possibly making a one-of-a-kind cocktail and talking about savory smoked foods as the program advertises. But more than likely, go off script and just make something up.
“These aren’t infomercials,” said Graham. Local culinary personality Liam Mayclem, aka the Foodie Chap, keeps the stage rolling through awkward, unrehearsed moments as the emcee. “Liam does a great job of keeping it all together,” said Graham, “He just reads the room.”
There’s also a natural chemistry between many of the chefs and bands. “Artists travel the world and have access to more types of cuisine than most. There is just an inherent love of food that exists in the artist community. Just as much as the chefs want to hang out with the artists, the artists want to hang out with the chefs. They just naturally went together,” Graham said.
“We want to deliver on the expectation of world class food and wine in Napa Valley,” said Graham. “We’ve hitched our wagon to that star,” he said. “There are food channels, there are food shows, and the people who make food are celebrities,” said Graham. “We’re part of that trend.”
Some of this weekend’s other culinary stage events include:
– Chef Michael Mina and Seattle’s famous Pike Place Fish Throwers testing SF 49er football player Dwight Clark’s ability to catch fish thrown at him
– Top Chef contestant Mei Lin teaming up with Atlas Genius and Grouplove to create and on-the-fly dish with secret ingredients from both bands’ tour riders
– Napa Izakaya chef Curtis DiFed rocking and rolling out homemade udon noodles and swapping Japanese adventure stories with the band R5.
– San Francisco chef Mourad Lahlou swapping healthy cooking tips with musician Michael Franti and radio host Robin Quivers
-Tyler Florence serving up his famous Wayfare Tavern Fried Chicken with emcee Billy Harris
Scallops at Spoonbar restaurant in Healdsburg on 5/15/15 . Copyright Heather Irwin, Biteclubeats.com.
Spoonbar is a sprawling dining room and cocktail bar that’s always had great chefs and the kind of potential that would make it a rousing success anywhere but Healdsburg. In the midst of so many Michelin-starred chefs and destination-worthy dining spots, it can be hard to stand out, especially at the far southern end of town.
But suddenly Spoonbar is standing out.
After the recent departure of Chef Louis Maldonado and several bartenders (who are opening a Healdsburg craft cocktail bar in June), the restaurant needed a fresh outlook. Husband and wife chef team of Patrick and Casey Van Voorhis were tapped in January 2016, and have been quietly changing up the menu. And locals are noticing.
Rhubarb and strawberry pie with candied rhubarb at Spoonbar restaurant in Healdsburg on 5/15/15 . Copyright Heather Irwin
With extensive experience in haute SF restaurants including the Michelin-starred Acquerello, Quince, it’s sister restaurant, Cotagna, as well as Yountville’s Bouchon, they’re pros who can turn out extraordinary dishes easily equal to any of the upscale eateries in town.
Roasted County Line carrots with prosciutto, brown butter egg yolk, toasted walnut vinaigrette at Spoonbar restaurant in Healdsburg, California. Heather Irwin, Press Democrat
One of the best dishes of roasted carrots I’ve ever had was from Maldonado when he joined the team in 2012, but a plate of roasted County Line carrots with prosciutto, brown butter egg yolk and walnut vinaigrette ($14) bested it in every way with a mix of sweet caramelization, savory egg, salty slivers of ham and the gently tart vinaigrette.
Beet salad with cocoa sable, smoked parsnip, fines herbes at Spoonbar restaurant in Healdsburg on 5/15/15 . Copyright Heather IrwinMiyagi oysters with granita mignonette at Spoonbar restaurant in Healdsburg on 5/15/15 . Copyright Heather Irwin, Biteclubeats.com.
Also stunning was the beet salad, with gem-like wedges of yellow, pink and red beets, smoked parsnip puree and a dusting of cocoa sable (a crunchy chocolate cookie, $13). Miyagi oysters with sea beans, pink peppercorns and mignonette granita (basically frozen, shaved vinaigrette) have an element of surprise and delight that oysters, well, usually don’t have.
Roasted cauliflower ravioli with truffle caviar, preserved lemon, fried shallots, shaved kohlrabi at Spoonbar restaurant in Healdsburg on 5/15/15 . Copyright Heather Irwin
Roasted cauliflower ravioli with truffle caviar, preserved lemon, fried shallots, shaved kohlrabi at Spoonbar restaurant in Healdsburg on 5/15/15 . Copyright Heather Irwin
Make a beeline for the house made pastas. Meyer lemon-ricotta gnudi are puffy pillows of ricotta cheese with a roasted chicken glaze, wild mushrooms, chicken cracklings and Parmesan foam ($16) that’s a steal of a deal for this kind of tweezer-perfect cooking. We also loved the roasted cauliflower ravioli ($18) with preserved lemon, fried shallots, shaved kohlrabi and faux “caviar” made with black truffles. Perfect with a few glasses of wine and a seat by the floor to ceiling windows (which open in the summer), you won’t find an easier table or better prices for this level of dining anywhere on the square.
Meyer lemon ricotta gnudi with roasted chicken glaze, wild mushrooms, chicken cracklings, parmesan foam at Spoonbar restaurant in Healdsburg on 5/15/15 . Copyright Heather Irwin, Biteclubeats.com.
Entrees jump up in price to between $23-35 dollars, and are good, but don’t quite match our enthusiasm for the rest of the menu. A lemon-brined chicken gets a unique presentation with a seared, sliced breast and “terrine” of leg artistically plated with charred ramp relish, smoked turnips and morels ($26). Moist and flavorful, but still chicken. Seared day boat scallops ($28) are perfectly cooked with charred asparagus, puffed black rice and shiso, but the slightly medicinal turmeric peanut sauce seemed all wrong for the delicate scallops. Maybe we were just getting full.
Lemon brined organic Rocky Jr. Chicken with charred ramp relish, leg terrine, smoked turnip and morels at Spoonbar restaurant in Healdsburg on 5/15/15 . Copyright Heather Irwin, Biteclubeats.com.
But dessert (each $10) raises the bar again, with complex interpretations of homey standards like rhubarb strawberry pie, which here includes liquid nitrogen drops of strawberry, candied rhubarb and shortbread crumbs; or S’Mores with chocolate ganache, cinnamon meringue and caramel. Almost too pretty to eat, but we made the sacrifice.
S’mores dessert at Spoonbar restaurant in Healdsburg on 5/15/15 . Copyright Heather Irwin, Biteclubeats.com.
It would be unfair not to mention one of the biggest draws of Spoonbar: The cocktails. Alec Vlastnik is the newest bar manager, continuing the tradition of precious, seasonal cocktails with mixes of small batch bitters, shrubs, fruit, spices and CO2 (which frizzes up any drink). They’re chips off the block that mixologist Scott Beattie first chiseled when he created the restaurant’s cocktail program in 2010. A fan of small, local distilleries, Vlastnik has nearly 30 cocktails on the menu, each better than the last. The wine list is also spectacular, serving Sonoma County wines exclusively.
Pisco punch at Spoonbar restaurant in Healdsburg on 5/15/15 . Copyright Heather Irwin, Biteclubeats.com.Dr. Cocktail #7 and Cali Collins at Spoonbar restaurant in Healdsburg on 5/15/15 . Copyright Heather Irwin, Biteclubeats.com.Bergamot blossom at at Spoonbar restaurant in Healdsburg on 5/15/15 . Copyright Heather Irwin, Biteclubeats.com.
Though the space can feel a bit casual for the luxe, complicated dishes on the menu (especially when there are happy hour revelers at the bar), Spoonbar never takes itself too seriously. It does, however, take itself seriously enough to be turning out really impressive food and dynamic cocktails at reasonable prices. All of which can be hard to find in Healdsburg.
Spoonbar at the H2Hotel, 219 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, (707) 433-7222, spoonbar.com
Having a tavern in a grocery store is a bad idea, said no one ever.
Whether you call it Saturday Afternoon Spouse Parking or just spot to grab a cold one before grabbing a gallon of milk, Oliver’s Tavern Off the Green (located just off the Windsor Town Green, natch) makes grocery shopping a whole lot more fun.
The new pub is a casual gathering spot with local beers on tap and an affordable tavern-style menu right inside the store. This restaurant-in-a-store concept also allows patrons to eat anything from the grocery store at the tavern, functioning as a stand-alone spot for lunch meet-ups, happy hour and after school hummus plates, with plenty of tables and bar seating. There’s also a refrigerated case with cold bottles of beer, wine and soda.
Hummus and veggies at Oliver’s Market in Windsor. Heather Irwin (PD)
Overseen by the market’s executive chefs Nick Zielke and Mark Kowalkowski , the menu is simple, but smart. Snacks include spicy salty nuts in maple syrup with cayenne and rosemary ($4.99 and totally addictive), along with pickled baby vegetables ($5.99) and a hummus plate with naan and veggies straight from the produce department. The local cheeseboard ($14.99) is one of the best (and most generous) we’ve seen, with Valley Ford Estero Gold Reserve, Cowgirl Creamery Red Hawk, Pug’s Leap Samson goat cheese and Bleating Heart Moolicious cheeses, gourmet crackers, honey and membrillo. Like it? The cheese department headed up by the fabulous Madame Fromage is steps away should you want to share a little Red Hawk with your sweetie later on.
Lagunitas chili at Oliver’s markt in Windsor. Heather Irwin (PD)
We also tried the Lagunitas Pork Chili ($9.99) with big chungs of Lagunitas braised pork, hominy, chipotle and pablano peppers. Served wtih sweet cornbread and cilantro lime butter it’s a hearty lunch or dinner. Korean beef street tacos ($9.99) are filled with marinated flank steak, Korean-style slaw and red chili sauce. Of course there’s comforting tomato soup with grilled Valley Ford Hwy. 1 Fontina cheese ($11.99) and spicy mac and cheese with bacon ($8.99). The tavern also serves gelato and lemon tarts, but if you’re in need of a sugar rush, the bakery also happens to be mere steps away so a lunch of cupcakes, macarons and bubbly is perfectly acceptable as well.
Cheese plate at Oliver’s Market in Windsor. Heather Irwin (PD)
Oliver’s doesn’t have the market cornered on pubs within stores, with Whole Foods and Lisa Hemenway’s now-shuttered restaurant/market, pioneering the idea locally.
Pickled veggies at Oliver’s Market in Windsor. Heather Irwin (PD)
Oliver’s CEO Tom Scott says he loved the concept, but wanted to personalize the tavern for Windsor to be larger, with an external entrance and kid-friendly atmosphere. “It’s a gathering place, I want it to feel friendly,” he said, hoping to appeal to the after work, after school, happy hour crowd. That, and the “I need a gallon of milk and a loaf of bread” crowd needing a little reward — sudsy or otherwise — for an errand accomplished.
Seasoned nuts at Oliver’s Market in Windsor. Heather Irwin (PD)
Oliver’s Tavern Off the Green, Bell Village, 9230 Old redwood Hwy., Windsor.
Don’t let the nondescript buildings and warehouse spaces fool you. Just off Coffey Lane in Santa Rosa is Crossing the Jordan’s latest venture—a retail space that has undergone a fabulous contemporary makeover.
You may know Crossing the Jordan if you’ve been to their home goods thrift store off Piner. I’ve been impressed by the selection of furniture there and I love the game room where kids stay busy playing free arcade games while parents shop.
But this new boutique is a stand out and their best venture yet. What makes shopping really rewarding is knowing your money goes towards transforming the lives of families in Sonoma County.
When you enter, you are transported from the surrounding industrial area, into a hip, modern boutique, the likes of which you’d find in an urban, downtown shopping district.
Modern white walls and floors are the perfect backdrop for a colorful variety of gently used jewelry, clothing, shoes, and handbags. You’ll find clothing for children, women (up to size 20), and men. There’s even a rack of glamorous fur coats!
Stylish attention to detail is abundant throughout the space. From the white leather sectional ottoman to the pink and green chairs and wine barrel display stands; fans of Kate Spade will appreciate the gold polka dots on the walls and enjoy shopping in this hip boutique. Near the register is the “Outfit of the Week” display, curated by local stylist Erica Rian.
Newly opened this month, the folks at Crossing the Jordan are just getting started. The Boutique is in the process of launching several concepts including the ability to reserve items from the website to try on at the store before buying.
The entire space can be booked for private shopping parties where the host earns money (for themselves or an organization of their choice). Or skip the party and simply sign up friends, family and supporters as your guests, so each time they shop, you earn a commission. Coming soon is the “Buy Back Center”, where you can sell your items for cash. In the meantime, grab your friends, support your community and get first dibs on designer and name brand items at affordable prices.
Pacific yellowtail with tatsol, ginger, citrus and togarishi at SHED Cafe’ in Healdsburg (photo by Heather Irwin)
From world fusion to ice rink cuisine, bon vivant Heather Irwin recommends these hot spots of the moment.
Ma po at Persimmon restaurant in Healdsburg. (Photo by Heather Irwin)
Persimmon on the Square
Marrying classic French cooking techniques, local ingredients, a broad interpretation of Thai-Vietnamese-Chinese cuisines and a soupçon of Mexican, Danny Mai has created an Asian-fusion menu entirely his own. From pho and ramen to banh mi and shrimp dumplings, this is approachable yet upscale dining that works perfectly in Healdsburg. Try the green-onion pancake, a thin, crisp wafer broken into four pieces, interspersed with minced pork in spicy seafood sauce, maitake mushrooms and onions. Also don’t miss the Peking duck bao, banh mi du jour and seven-spice brisket with a potato-wasabi croquette.
Wood fired Neapolitan style pizza at Franchetti’s in Santa Rosa
Franchetti’s Kitchen
Since leaving Rosso, chef John Franchetti and his wife, Gesine, have revamped their bistro menu with a lineup of small plates, salads and entrees that showcase what Franchetti does best. Each day, specials go on the chalkboard, so you never quite know what you’ll experience, though the fried chicken, arancini, wood-fire pizzas, roasted olives with burrata and breakfast skillets are in the regular rotation. Don’t miss the spicy chicken flash-fried with salsa verde and Calabrian chile paste ($10).
1229 N. Dutton Road, Santa Rosa, 707-526-1229, franchettis.com
BBQ pork ribs at Apple Junction Smokehouse in Sebastopol. (Photo by Heather Irwin)
Apple Junction BBQ Smokehouse
It takes a brave chef to jump into the barbecue scrum that has left the region awash in burnt ends and secret sauce. But the mother-son team who took over the restaurant caboose at Gravenstein Station seem to know a thing or two about smoky brisket and pulled pork. Maybe that’s because co-owner Jake Owen has been at a grill since he was practically in diapers. The mixed barbecue platter is a good bet; try the pulled pork, brisket, coleslaw, beans and Junction Fries. Or just get the fries, covered with a mound of pulled pork, onion jam and barbecue sauce. This being Sebastopol, there are several options for vegetarians, including country-fried tofu and a portobello mushroom sandwich.
Eggs Benedict is among the treats at Sprenger’s Tap Room (Photo by RohndaSue Photography)
Sprenger’s Tap Room
Local electrician and barbecue pitmaster Damon Gault takes over this downtown taproom on Saturday and Sunday mornings for word-of-mouth breakfasts. You heard it here: The house-smoked pastrami hash is insanely good, made with diced potatoes, pulled pastrami, eggs to order and sautéed kale. Other winners include chicken-fried steak with potatoes, biscuits and gravy, and cinnamon walnut French toast. Go with a sense of adventure, grab an early-bird beer and enjoy the ride.
Tiramisu at Tomatina Italian restaurant in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy Photo)
Tomatina
Former Tra Vigne chef Rogelio Jacinto is behind this chain of eight Bay Area restaurants. Daily specials and an approachable menu make it family friendly, though this is far from just a pizzeria. Dishes include homemade meatballs and arancini, orecchiette carbonara, salmon piadine (a salad atop a pizza crust) and gourmet pizzas.
Montgomery Village, 2323 Sonoma Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-583-0035, tomatina.com
Alfajores – Peruvian shortbread and caramel cookies – at Quinua Cocina Peruana in Petaluma (Photo by Heather Irwin)
Quinua Cocina Peruana
With three Peruvian restaurants in the North Bay, this South American cuisine is gaining traction, and for good reason. A mashup of Spanish, West African, Italian, Japanese, Chinese and indigenous flavors, it’s soulful and exotic, yet also approachable, even though chiles are a major component of sauces and stews. At this Petaluma newcomer, dishes such as lomo saltado (beef with soy sauce and ginger) and mashed Peruvian potatoes with cream and cheese are easy beginner choices. The mixed seafood ceviche (mussels, shrimp, white fish and squid “cooked” in lime juice), hearty meat stews and duck marinated in orange juice are also recommended.
The late cartoonist Charles M. Schulz still has a table reserved at this nostalgic snack bar at the Redwood Empire Ice Arena. Though Peppermint Patty’s hot chocolate and nachos are still top sellers, longtime restaurateur Josef Keller has upped the cafe’s game by adding some fresher fare, including daily specials such as grilled salmon and beef stew with polenta, plus his famous apple strudel. Snoopy’s is a godsend for families hungry after an afternoon of skating. Keller also does occasional pop-up dinners with white-tablecloth service.
Pacific yellowtail with tatsol, ginger, citrus and togarishi at SHED Cafe’ in Healdsburg (photo by Heather Irwin)
SHED Cafe
Chef Perry Hoffman’s new menus at Healdsburg SHED impressed the heck out of everyone, but that’s not stopping him from continuing to push his menus forward. Hoffman and new chef de cuisine Bryan Oliver have launched a nightly four-course prix fixe dinner that “reflects the best of each day.” There is no printed menu, but chefs come to the table to talk about each dish and its ingredients. This experience, Hoffman said, allows the chefs to play with “new flavors in the moment, and to work with special, small quantities of ingredients that are fleeting.” Expect a light starter, vegetable-inspired first course, meat or fish second course, and a sweet or savory ending.
Margherita pizza fresh from the wood-fire oven at Glen Ellen Star in Glen Ellen. (photo by Crista Jeremiason)
Glen Ellen Star
This compact little restaurant has been a foodie destination since it opened, but owner Ari Weiswasser is proving to be a young chef to watch as he expands his repertoire to include passion projects like barbecue (an amazing new grill sits out back). He is obsessive about his sourcing and menus, using of-the-moment produce and local meats. The new patio is an indoor/outdoor space that’s luxe enough for high-end events and everyday dining.
The annual music, bbq and oyster funfest happens on May 28 at Rocker Oysterfeller’s Kitchen + Saloon in Valley Ford. Five bands, two stages, bbq and raw oysters, fried oyster po boys, smoked brisket tacos, Lagunitas, local wines and Hurricanes are ready to greet you at 12:30p.m. The event is family-friendly, and encourages bad dancing and eating yourself silly. Tickets $20 in advance, $25 at the door. 14415 Highway One, details online at facebook.com/oysterpalooza.
Musicians Michael Franti and Zella Day make pizza with chef Roberto on the Culinary Stage at the BottleRock Napa festival. (The Press Democrat)
For perhaps the first time in human history, music festival goers can say, “I’m just here for the lamb butchery.”
But it probably won’t be the last, since chef-tertainment — chefs as rock star entertainers — are one of the hottest trends at summer music festivals like this week’s BottleRock, San Francisco’s Outside Lands, Coachella and the recently-announced Desert Trip. Taking top billing next to music icons, chefs have become high profile attractions in their own right, thanks to the Food Network, Top Chef and Chopped.
Napa’s BottleRock, however, has taken the cake this year, with an expansive culinary stage featuring chefs Masaharu Morimoto, Tyler Florence, Gorden Ramsay, Michael Voltaggio, along with local toques including Chris Cosentino, Michael Mina, Curtis DiFede and Sonoma County’s own Ari Weiswasser. Paired up with acts like Greenday, Cheech & Chong, drummer Taylor Hawkins of the FooFighters, Grouplove and NFL stars Dwight Clark, Charles Woodson and Vernon Davis, the focus is on food-focused entertainment rather than serious cooking.
And the aforementioned lamb butchery.
It all makes perfect sense, considering Wine Country’s draw for food and wine. But it’s also about the continual rise of chefs as entertainers.
“I’m gonna blame Top Chef for this,” said Glen Ellen Star Chef Ari Weiswasser. Though he’s no stranger to media attention for his culinary skills, Weiswasser admits he’s not a performer.
“There’s a lot of entertainment value here, and general interest in food and chefs is the highest I can remember,” he said. There’s also the whole spectacle of breaking down a whole lamb on stage, in front of hundreds of festival-goers, assisted by three football players, which Weiswasser will attempt to do on Sunday on the Williams-Sonoma Culinary Stage at BottleRock.
“It’s live and something is going to go wrong,” he said. “But its a microcosm of your restaurant, and you have to just react. I’ve (butchered) a thousand lambs, but I might screw it up. If I give Vernon Davis a hacksaw and he’s doing a great job butchering, I’m gonna have to ask him why he’s so comfortable with a hacksaw,” Weiswasser joked.
At last year’s BottleRock, one of the most popular acts on the culinary stage was Chef Morimoto teamed up with rapper and cannabis activist Snoop Dogg. The theme for the demo: Rolling Skills, be it sushi or otherwise. When given a piece of dried seaweed and some rice, Dogg nailed the roll and Morimoto took a shot a singing. Suffice to say, both probably should stick to their day jobs, but it made for a great show.
So how do organizers get a synchronicity between chefs and performers, or even know which chefs to pick?
“You start with the chefs,” said Dave Graham, CEO of Latitude 38 Entertainment, which organizes the BottleRock festival. Graham and his management team simply sit around throwing out “the craziest ideas ever”, maybe doing an internet search on what kind of food a certain band likes, said Graham, “It’s just sitting down and spitballing. Most of it sticks, some of it doesn’t,” he said.
He explained the choice of San Francisco chef Chris Cosentino, known for his love of meats, offal and irreverent sensibilities. “I’ve had his food, and there’s always smoke component to it,” said Graham. Who likes smoking things? Thursday night performers Cheech and Chong. Suddenly, it’s a match made in heaven. Or at least a really promising blind date. The trio will ad lib their way through a half hour of entertainment on the Williams-Sonoma Culinary Stage on Friday, from 3:45 to 4:15 p.m., possibly making a one-of-a-kind cocktail and talking about savory smoked foods as the program advertises. But more than likely, go off script and just make something up.
“These aren’t infomercials,” said Graham. Local culinary personality Liam Mayclem, aka the Foodie Chap, keeps the stage rolling through awkward, unrehearsed moments as the emcee. “Liam does a great job of keeping it all together,” said Graham, “He just reads the room.”
There’s also a natural chemistry between many of the chefs and bands. “Artists travel the world and have access to more types of cuisine than most. There is just an inherent love of food that exists in the artist community. Just as much as the chefs want to hang out with the artists, the artists want to hang out with the chefs. They just naturally went together,” Graham said.
“We want to deliver on the expectation of world class food and wine in Napa Valley,” said Graham. “We’ve hitched our wagon to that star,” he said. “There are food channels, there are food shows, and the people who make food are celebrities,” said Graham. “We’re part of that trend.”
Some of this weekend’s other culinary stage events include:
– Chef Michael Mina and Seattle’s famous Pike Place Fish Throwers testing SF 49er football player Dwight Clark’s ability to catch fish thrown at him
– Top Chef contestant Mei Lin teaming up with Atlas Genius and Grouplove to create and on-the-fly dish with secret ingredients from both bands’ tour riders
– Napa Izakaya chef Curtis DiFed rocking and rolling out homemade udon noodles and swapping Japanese adventure stories with the band R5.
– San Francisco chef Mourad Lahlou swapping healthy cooking tips with musician Michael Franti and radio host Robin Quivers
-Tyler Florence serving up his famous Wayfare Tavern Fried Chicken with emcee Billy Harris
When John Franchetti announced he was splitting with longtime Rosso Pizzeria partner Kevin Cronin in December, fans of his rustic Italian cooking were concerned. But as it turned out, things only improved for Santa Rosa diners.
After Franchetti stepped away from the two Rossos in Santa Rosa and Petaluma, he was able to focus more on his baby: Rosso Eventi + Rosticerria, which the duo had opened in early 2014 in Santa Rosa.
First order of business: change the name to Franchetti’s Wood Fire Kitchen to emphasize flame roasting. Second, expand the menu for more Cal-Italian dishes and new dinner service. Third: amp up the fun. We can play Ping Pong next to the dining tables, a fittingly offbeat activity when we’re dining in what’s also a catering commissary in an industrial/office park at Dutton and College avenues.
Chef and owner John Franchetti working in the kitchen near his wood fire oven at Franchettis’ Wood Fire Kitchen, Catering & Events located on Dutton Avenue in Santa Rosa. (Erik Castro/The Press Democrat)
Wisely, the chef didn’t change the backbone of his menu, keeping his signature breakfast hash, upscale sandwiches and thin crust wood-fired pizza. But now we can savor that hash ($12.75) as lunch, too, in a tumble of fire-browned potato chunks, bell peppers, onions, mushrooms, chicken, thick cut bacon and a crown of two over-easy eggs sprinkled with chopped scallions and herbs. It’s a big, bright mix-up, all mounded in an iron skillet, then presented on a wood board.
Rosso Eventi was planned primarily as workspace for Franchetti’s burgeoning catering business, and the layout still feels workman. From the order counter, guests can peek into the 2,500-square-foot kitchen. In a clever touch, a towering potted tree near the front door is on a wheeled dolly, so the space can be completely rearranged for private parties.
The dining room has been dressed up a bit, including a corner nook set with lounge chairs and board game tables. Yet we still choose from a paper menu printed and tacked to the wall, grab a number and wait for food delivery to our table. Casual, yes. At one busy lunch hour, Franchetti’s wife Gesine was juggling multiple tasks between kitchen and counter, and I got a cheerful “Here’s your sandwich!” as a summons to pick up my food.
Franchetti’s spicy chicken with salsa verde and Calabrian chili paste. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
As I dipped my tri-tip ($10.25) into a cup of hot jus, though, etiquette didn’t matter. The ciabatta here is perfect, chewy crusted and savory. Thick-cut beef is study enough to hold up to the bread, slicked with earthy chimichurri, garlic aioli and a bit of caramelized onions, while a side of homemade potato chips adds crunch.
Whap-whap-whap, a Ping Pong ball bounced back and forth nearby as my companions and I nibbled on creamy omelet folded with Swiss, feta, spinach, roasted onion, sun dried tomato and spicy Italian sausage with a side of home fries ($15.75). Like the setting, our meal was a bit-of-this-and-that, part breakfast, part lunch, featuring a juicy Rocky chicken sandwich slicked in chile mayo and a layer of sweet apple slaw ($9.75), plus another Franchetti hallmark — his excellent veal and pork meatballs tucked into sourdough with rich pomodoro, parmesan and the secret weapon, burrata ($11).
For good measure, we also got the Manchester 92 pizza ($17 11-inch, $19 14-inch). I remember my first bite of such pie at the newly opened Rosso in 2008, and it’s still one of the best in Northern California. Think crisp crust spun lavash-thin and christened in a hell-hot oven, emerging bubbly and puffy-edged under a mantle of pepperoni, Italian sausage, prosciutto, mozzarella and caramelized onions.
Crab fettucine at Franchetti’s Wood Fire Kitchen in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Dining can seem pricey for the basics, but let’s keep in mind that this is boutique food, with attention to detail. Even the milk for the Sonoma Roast organic coffee from Taylor Maid Farms is served in a chic carafe kept on ice; never mind it’s self serve ($3). Wine comes in a plain glass from a short list of seven whites and seven reds, yet they’re friendly six-ounce pours for some interesting choices like Pieropan Soave Classico ($8, Veneto, Italy).
The best bargains — and the biggest evolution from the Eventi roots — come with the entrées, when Franchetti flexes his cooking muscles for plates like Kurobuta pig roast ($22). The premium, buttery meat is cooked on the bone for deeper flavor, paired with sautéed spinach and roasted potatoes and finished with a scattering of pine nuts and raisins. It’s home cooking if you came from a really, really good home. Spicy roast chicken is another simple success, thanks to the sneak-up heat of Calabrian chile paste brightened by a drizzle of lemon oil ($15).
You might never guess that such a relaxed space offers homemade pasta, either, but it does, thanks to the catering operation economics, delivering flair like fettuccine laced around chunks of sweet Dungeness crab, mushrooms and sherry-kissed sauce ($22). As with the chicken, I wish I’d had bread to sop up the last good bits.
Sometimes the place looks disjointed. On one visit, bare tables were arranged mish-mash, and the drink station was sloppy. On another, the dine-in bar counter was arranged with fresh flower vases, and tidily arranged tables were set with rolled cloth napkins. Who knows, décor might depend on whether or not an event is in the works.
But here’s one thing we can always count on. Chef John Franchetti’s soul-warming cooking is better than ever.
Owners John and Gesine Franchetti have staked their claim at Franchettis’ Wood Fire Kitchen. (Erik Castro/The Press Democrat)
Sonoma Magazine won top awards for “general excellence” and “best feature story” in its circulation category at the 31st National City and Regional Magazine Awards competition. The awards were announced Monday at the City and Regional Magazine Association’s annual conference in Denver.
The judges, in honoring Sonoma Magazine with the overall award for general excellence, highlighted the magazine’s diverse and evocative coverage of Sonoma County:
“From the beautiful to the quirky, Sonoma Magazine captures the essence of this region with an editorial mix that celebrates its many facets; urban and rural, sophisticated yet authentic, personal but community minded, the magazine’s strong voice, charming writing style, inspiring photography and fresh design make Sonoma compelling.”
Sonoma Magazine also took home the top award for feature story for “Up Against the Wall,” Phil Barber’s gripping account of the historic Dawn Wall climb in Yosemite last winter by Santa Rosa resident Kevin Jorgeson and climbing partner Tommy Caldwell. “Up Against the Wall” earlier this month was also recognized as the best interview/profile story at the 65th annual Maggie Awards in Los Angeles.
“This is a huge honor amid great company and strong competitors,” said Sonoma Magazine Editor-in-Chief Catherine Barnett. “These awards value above all capturing a sense of place, and I am proud we are doing that for Sonoma. So many people here put their hearts into this and it is great to see that commitment to excellence recognized.”
In addition to Sonoma Magazine, other publications honored with multiple awards Monday included Texas Monthly, Portland Monthly, Denver-based 5280, Los Angeles Magazine, Boston Magazine, D Magazine, and Philadelphia Magazine.
The prestigious CRMA competition attracted nearly a thousand submissions from magazines throughout North America. The finalists were selected by more than 100 judges, representing a host of international publications including: ELLE, Entertainment Weekly, Esquire, Food Network Magazine, Harvard Business Review, Marie Claire, National Geographic, O (The Oprah Magazine), Rolling Stone, Southern Living and the Washington Post.
