Oysters 101: Oysters with a shucking knife at Santa Rosa Seafood. Heather Irwin/PD
The Oyster Eater’s Guide
(This article was originally published in 2016 when I met with Santa Rosa Seafood owner Mike Svedise. Sadly, Svedise died unexpectedly in 2017.)
On Thursday and Friday mornings, dozens of mesh bags filled with oysters are piled onto fresh ice at Santa Rosa Seafood shop. They travel from waters as far away as Prince Edward Island and the Virginia coast, to Pacific waters between Tomales Bay and British Columbia, and come in all shapes, sizes, colors and textures.
Call it a United Nations of bivalves.
Devoted oyster seekers come for Kumamotos, Miyagis, Malpeques, Kusshi and even Fat Bastards.
Sixteen different kinds of oysters are in today’s order: from Hammersly Inlet, Tomales Bay, Wildcat Cove or Anchor Bay Washington; the Yeocomico River in Virginia or Long Island. Each has a distinctive shell shape, ruffled, flat, ruggedly bumpy or nearly smooth.
As staff shuck them, he reveals a time capsule of a specific place and time where that oyster grew, what they’ve eaten, the temperature of the water, the time of year and of course their place of origin. All give an oyster the unique flavor some compare to a wine’s terroir, or “merroir.”
As we head into winter, the ideal time for shellfish, it’s worth knowing what you’re eating and what to look for.
Oysters at Santa Rosa Seafood in 2016 (Heather Irwin)
What an oyster is
Oyster are bi-valves, meaning they are filter feeders with a hinged shell. Also part of the oyster family tree are mussels, clams and scallops. As anyone who’s been to an oyster bar knows, part of the fun of eating these slippery shellfish is getting up close and personal with them.
It’s less clear what’s in a name. Fanny Bay, Hog Island Sweetwater, Totten Inlet, even French Kiss and Naked Cowboy are just a few of the monikers you’ll find, most of them referring to the place they were grown. We actually eat only five main species in North America: Pacific, Kumamoto, Olympia, Eastern and European Flats.
Blue Point Oyster at Santa Rosa Seafood (Heather Irwin)
Pacific oysters are the most common species, estimated to be 75 percent of the worldwide market. They have ruffled shells, like our local Hog Island Sweetwaters. Both Pacific and Kumamotos originated in Japan but are frequently grown in California and Washington. Kumamotos tend to have the lightest, sweetest flavor and are great for first-timers.
Olympia oysters tend to be small, but are gaining popularity with aficionados, even though they can be hard to find. Eastern oysters have flatter, less jagged shells and often a stronger briny flavor. European Flats are native to the cool waters of Western Europe and less popular in the U.S., though you can find the rare French Hog at Hog Island Oysters.
Miyagi oyster at Santa Rosa Seafood (Heather Irwin)
Why we love oysters
“A good oyster smells like the sea breeze skipping over the shore,” writes Rowan Jacobsen in “The Essential Oyster: A Salty Appreciation of the Taste and Temptation” (Bloomsbury, $35). “A bad oyster smells like a murder victim. I prefer the former. But I like how even the latter helps exemplify the essence of the interface: An oyster conveys its life experience directly to your senses.”
Though it seems a bit counter-intuitive to yearn for a slimy little creature that spends its life filtering mud, algae and other floating things, archaeologists have found ancient oyster shell piles (called middens) that date back millennia. Clearly our ancestors knew there was something to be said for them, whether it was the salt, the minerals in their flesh or simply their alleged aphrodisiac properties.
Oyster at Santa Rosa Seafood (Heather Irwin)
Then again, there’s something primal about tucking into a plate of these sea creatures. They are the essence of salt water and time.
Many are available year-round, though experts that include Jacobsen say it’s best to use the “R” rule, eating them in months with an “R” in their name (September through April, in other words).
Most oysters we eat are farmed, not wild. And that’s not a bad thing.
Fat Bastard oyster at Santa Rosa Seafood (Heather Irwin)
In Northern California, they are seeded and grown, each oyster filtering up to 50 gallons of water each day, according to the Chesapeake Foundation, and are generally thought to improve their surrounding environments. In fact, a Stanford study found that oysters and other bivalves could significantly reduce toxins in water, though you might not want those on the half shell.
Oysters at Santa Rosa Seafood (Heather Irwin)
The biggest concentration of oyster farms is near Vancouver Island, British Columbia, where popular Pacific oysters like Fanny Bay, Kusshi, Emerald Cove, Denman Island and Chef’s Creek are grown. Washington state is also a large producer best known for Kumamotos and smaller Olympia oysters. In Northern California, Hog Island oysters are plentiful in Tomales Bay. Keep in mind that most oysters we eat don’t grow pearls, though it’s always worth a look.
Oysters: What to look for
“The first thing you want to see is liquid,” said Aluxa Lalicker, co-owner of The Shuckery restaurant in Petaluma. As half of “The Oyster Girls” traveling oyster bar she runs with her sister, Jazmine, she’s seen a lot of oysters, both good and bad.
“Oysters are bringing the seawater to you,” she said, in the form of oyster liquor, the watery, salty liquid that surrounds an oyster. If an oyster is dry, you probably don’t want to eat it, and for heaven’s sake, don’t pour out the liquid. It’s part of the tasting process and tres gauche to dump it.
Depending on the kind of oyster, it should look plump and healthy. Color is also important, according to Lalicker. “Some have a more orange or coppery color, offering a lot of minerality. Some have really green gills with notes of vegetables, prized in Europe,” she said. “After you open a lot of oysters, you kind of know what it’s going to taste like.”
Oysters should always be stored cold and served cold if they’re raw. If an oyster is already opened before shucking, it’s dead, and you really don’t want to eat it.
Starter oysters
Lalicker’s restaurant usually has about four kinds of oysters on the menu, but Tomales Bay Miyagis are her favorite. The local oysters have a salty, sweet and slightly metallic flavor that’s approachable to newcomers, but also a favorite of more experienced oysterologists.
“I’ve tasted oysters from throughout the world, and they’re addictive,” Lalicker said. Like wine, however, it takes a little while to learn what you like.
“We ask if you like ice cream or potato chips,” she said. Folks who like chips tend to like briny, more intense flavors. Ice cream people tend to like sweeter, softer oysters grown near freshwater that have a less salty flavor.
Best bet, however, is just to ask questions, go to a reputable purveyor or restaurant, and try a few oysters to see what you like. “It’s about the smell, the taste and the texture all coming together,” said Lalicker.
How To Shuck An Oyster
Great Spots to Get ‘Em
You can practically throw a rock in any direction and hit an oyster bar in Sonoma County. We’ve got a passion for them, just about any way you can serve them up. Here are a few spots to try them:
El Dorado Kitchen: El Dorado Hotel & Kitchen, 405 First Street West, Sonoma, 707-996-3030, eldoradosonoma.com
Stark’s Steak and Seafood: 521 Adams St., Santa Rosa, 707-546-5100, starkrestaurants.com
Sonoma Grill: 165 W. Napa St., Sonoma, 938-7542
Cafe Lucia: 235 Healdsburg Ave., Suite 105, Healdsburg, 707-431-1113.
Rocker Oysterfeller’s: 14415 Highway 1, Valley Ford, 707-876-1983, rockeroysterfellers.com
Nellie’s Oysters: Saturdays at the Santa Rosa Community Farmers’ Market, Santa Rosa Veteran’s Building.
Hog Island Oyster Co.: This oyster pilgrimage spot has recently changed up their policies on the picnic area: Seating is reservation-only and are limited to 90 minutes, though its really only enforced Friday through Monday. Make sure to check the website before you go so you won’t end up disappointed. 20215 Highway 1, Marshall, 415-663-0218, hogislandoysters.com
It’s the first day of fall, and I’m already noticing some of my summer plants going dormant. My cucumbers, eggplants, and okra are on their final stretch – and although my tomatoes are still looking healthy, I know they won’t last much longer. It’s time to plant vegetables that will thrive as the temperatures begin to drop.
Here are six edibles that will reinvigorate your garden, as well as your dinner plate:
Cabbage
Cabbage seedlings. (Image via harvesttotable.com)
I’ve always had a tough time growing cabbage, but it’s not stopping me from trying again this year. Cabbage needs fertile soil and lots of moisture to thrive. This year, I’ll plant the seedlings by a drip irrigation system I’ve had installed – and I’ll keep my fingers crossed for better cabbage-growing luck.
Cabbage ready to harvest. (Image via gardeningknowhow.com)
You’ll know your cabbage is ready to harvest when it looks like a green sculpture that you can’t wait to take a crunchy bite of. It generally takes about 70 days to mature.
Roasted cabbage with bacon. (Image via azestybite.com)
My favorite way to enjoy cabbage has always been with corned beef. However, this roasted cabbage with bacon recipe has made me consider trying something new this year.
Broccoli, the oh-so-often-underrated vegetable, is one of the most versatile ingredients you can grow in your garden. While I like to experiment with different broccoli preparations, my boys are more “basic” in their broccoli tastes: some melted cheese on top and they’ll happily take a bite – or two.
Broccoli ready to be harvested. (Image via bonnieplants.com)
Not only is broccoli tasty – it’s healthy too! It is an excellent source of dietary fiber, vitamin B6, and vitamin E.
Roasted broccoli with cherry tomatoes. (Image via foodandwine.com)
Brussels sprouts seedlings. (Image via podgardening.com)
Brussels sprouts are one of the most reliable edibles to plant in the fall – they do well even in temperatures that drop as low as 20°.
Brussels sprouts ready to harvest. (Image via Wikipedia)
Brussel sprouts take around 90 days to mature, but they are worth the wait if you plant them in early fall as cool weather seems to bring out the taste better.
Brussels sprouts sliders.
I made these Brussel sprout sliders for Thanksgiving two years ago, when my brother-in-law brought his vegetarian girlfriend for dinner. The sliders were served as an appetizer, and were thoroughly enjoyed by all – carnivores included.
While technically a member of the cabbage family, kohlrabi tastes and looks very much like a turnip. I was introduced to this funky vegetable a couple of years ago by a co-worker, and I’ve been enjoying it ever since.
Kohlrabi ready for harvest. (Image via plantgeeksgarden.com)
Much like a turnip, kohlrabi will mature in a little less than 60 days – you’ll see the bulb stick out above the soil when it’s good to go.
Kohlrabi scallops. (Image via rachelcarr.com)
This Kohlrabi Scallops dish uses thick slices of kohlrabi as a vegetarian substitute for scallops. With delicious additions of shallots, garlic, and cashew milk, you won’t miss the seafood.
Cauliflower seedlings. (Image via inchbyinchrowbyrow.com)
Much to my 7 year-old son’s dismay, I adore cauliflower. They are trickier to grow than many fall vegetables, but well worth the effort. Cauliflower needs to be planted 6 to 8 weeks before the first frost. Pay attention to temperature fluctuations – too much fluctuation can make your cauliflower taste bitter.
Cauliflower ready to harvest. (Image via laurarittenhouse.com)
There’s little guessing involved when it comes to deciding when your cauliflower is ready for harvest – it’s practically begging to be picked up and eaten.
Broccoli cauliflower casserole. (Image via mccormick.com)
Casseroles make a weekly appearance at my house, and this broccoli cauliflower casserole has enjoyed many reruns. This is one of the few vegetable dishes my young boys will gladly eat – while most other veggies are forcefully pushed away.
Radish seedlings. (Image via better-together-farm.com)
When planting radishes, there are a variety of seedlings to choose from but the differences are slight. Some will mature more slowly but be larger in diameter, while some can mature in as few as 25 days.
Radish ready to harvest. (Image via campusagriculture.ca)
When radishes are ready to grace your dinner table, they’ll start poking their little heads out of the ground. (Image via campusagriculture.ca)
Honey roasted radish. (Image via thebittenword.com)
Roast your radishes in honey for a sweet and savory contrast to the peppery – sometimes tangy – taste of the radishes. Honey roasted radishes will pair well with pork chops or salmon fillets.
Just in time for fall – Sonoma County style comfort food and full bodied wheat beer. Perfect Pairing: Modern Times Unfortunate Islands
Fall is officially here, and we’re getting ready to settle into our comfort food phase with hearty stews and soups on chilly nights. If you’d like to savor some of the summer feeling in early fall, try this recipe with roasted root vegetables seasoned with fresh spices from the local Savory Spice Shop. Pair it with a fruit-forward, hoppy wheat beer – like Modern Times Fortunate Islands, available at Beer Craft in Rohnert Park.
1 head cauliflower, quartered, sliced in thin steaks
2 tsp. Garam Masala
1 and 1/2 tsp. salt
½ tsp. fresh ground pepper
1 head frisee salad, chopped
3 heads hearts of romaine, chopped
1 c. green olives, sliced in quarters (long)
½ cashews, chopped
DIRECTIONS
Roasted Cauliflower: Pre-heat oven to 400 degrees. Place cauliflower steaks on a sheet tray. Use two trays if needed to avoid layering. Drizzle 1 tsp. olive oil over cauliflower, dust with garam masala. Roast in oven for 30 minutes, flipping steaks after 15 minutes. Set aside when done.
Dressing: In a small mixing bowl, squeeze the juice from one lime and add mustard, remaining olive oil, ½ tsp salt and pepper. Blend well.
Salad: In a large mixing bowl, add in romaine and frisee salad, olives, half of the cauliflower, and dressing. Mix and transfer to serving bowl. Add remaining cauliflower and sprinkle cashews on top. Ready to serve.
Happy Cooking!
Savory Spice Shop
Santa Rosa: 317 D Street, Santa Rosa, CA 95404.
Sonoma: Sonoma Market Place, 201 West Napa Street, Unit 5 , Sonoma, CA 95476.
Beer Craft, Commerce Business Center, 5704 Commerce Blvd, Rohnert Park, CA 94928, (707) 206 – 9440 @BeerCraft
“I feel like I’m receiving nonverbal messages and cues all day long from ambient aromas inside and outside of the winery,” she said.
The associate winemaker, gifted with sensory acuity, helped craft our wine-of-the-week winner — the La Follette, 2013 North Coast Pinot Noir at $24.
The La Follette pinot noir has aromas of bright strawberry that give way to concentrated flavors of dried cherry, cracked black pepper and mushroom. This pinot has depth, surprising at this price point. You also can find it at discount retail shops for $20.
Sequeira, 41, has been working with vintner and winemaker Greg La Follette since the brand’s inception in 2009, also the year La Follette sold his winery, then named Tandem, to Wine Creek LLC.
La Follette said he continued working with his namesake winery until June, when he left as a result of corporate restructuring with its current owner.
La Follette produced the winning North Coast pinot before leaving the company and is now the winemaker of Ancient Oak Cellars, which has a tasting room in downtown Santa Rosa.
“I’m proud of all the wines I produced at La Follette,” he said, “and very thankful for the excellent work of Simone Sequeira, my gifted assistant winemaker for many years, who remains with La Follette.”
Sequeira said she is “honored to have spent so many years learning from a master such as Greg La Follette. Now with Greg’s departure from La Follette, I am looking forward to continuing to craft beautiful pinot noir and chardonnay under our new winemaking consultant, Ehren Jordan.”
Sequeira’s pivotal moment with wine came when she had the opportunity to taste an old Burgundy.
“Until that time, I had no experience with cellared wines,” she said. “What I sipped that night was so ephemeral, so pleasing and fleeting that it changed the way I considered wine. And it also served as an introduction to the birthplace of pinot noir.”
In 2002, Sequeira worked her first harvest at Domaine de la Vougeraie, surrounded by grapes from some of the finest vineyards of Burgundy.
Sequeira said what the uninitiated may not know about pinot noir is how easy it is to bungle.
“Pick it too early and you may have missed the real flavor development,” she said. “Pick too late and the acidity drops and the potential alcohol rises.”
Of all the daunting decisions winemakers make, the harvest date is the most crucial, she said.
“It’s like the blue flash that happens when the sun dips below the horizon on a clear sunset. You look away for a moment and you’ll miss it.”
Sequeira said she’s well-suited to winemaking because she thrives on multi-tasting.
“Winemaking is a carousel of vineyard visits, cellar decisions, tasting, traveling, spreadsheets and sharing the wines with others,” she said.
During harvest, we often hear the saying, “It takes a lot of good beer to make great wine.” Luckily local brews abound, and they are a steal with 22-ounce bottles typically in the $5 range. Here are some India Pale Ales to drink while this fertile region makes wine.
Bear Republic Racer 5 IPA, 22 oz., 7.5% alcohol. Healdsburg. A full-bodied beer that’s hoppy, both in aroma and flavors. Additional notes of mango and caramel. Balanced.
North Coast Stellar IPA, 22 oz., 6%. Fort Bragg. A medium-bodied beer that’s very tasty. Flavors of toast, citrus and toffee. Creamy texture. Hoppy finish.
Fogbelt Del Norte IPA, 22 oz., 7%. Santa Rosa. This is a tasty beer with aromas and flavors of pineapple, citrus and caramel. A touch sweet. Malty finish.
Lagunitas IPA, 22 oz, 6.2%. Petaluma. A brew with mild hoppiness. It has both citrus and tropical notes, with a hint of caramel. Foamy head. Dry finish.
Squab miso ramen at Miminashi, a Japanese izakaya, in Napa, California on Tuesday, August 30, 2016. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
Squab miso ramen at Miminashi, a Japanese izakaya, in Napa. (Photo by Alvin Jornada)
From the very front door, we can tell that Miminashi is something special. Designer Michael McDermott dreamed up a stunning hand-carved creation, inspired by Mt. Fuji, for a three-sided foyer lined in hundreds of small peaks that rise from the naturally multi-colored wood, each mountaintop capped with a tiny volcanic indention.
To me, the pattern looks more like female anatomy, in an art form of epizeuxis. But either way, it’s gorgeous and sets the stage for what is now downtown Napa’s most exciting restaurant. The Japanese décor is sophisticated, the Japanese cuisine is authentic and the experience pushes the envelope for anything we’ve ever had in this area.
Chicken tail yakitori at Miminashi restaurant in Napa. (Photo by Heather Irwin)
Yakitori? Yes. You can see the skewers being fired on the expo robata grill. But here it comes in the many unusual cuts the Japanese culture appreciates, with grilled chicken breast ($9) and thigh ($7.50), but also chicken belly ($7), knee cartilage ($9), heart ($8.50), fatty-luscious fried skin ($8) and tail (ok, butt), which is a delicacy, even if it’s too fatty and squid textured for my taste ($6).
Miatake mushroom yakitori at Miminashi restaurant in Napa. (Photo by Heather Irwin)
The concept is a radical switch for chef-owner Curtis Di Fede, who leapt into the spotlight in 2010 with his Oenotri southern Italian restaurant in Napa. Then, two years ago, he and co-owner Tyler Rodde ended their partnership, with Rodde keeping Oenotri.
Soon after, Di Fede took an Asian vacation and decided Napa needed an izakaya, in an upscale, Cal-inspired version of the boisterous pub style so beloved in Japan. After lots of red tape, he opened Miminashi earlier this year in the historic Young Building on Coombs and Second streets, just around the corner from Oenotri.
Customers enjoy dinner and drinks at Miminashi, a Japanese izakaya, in Napa. (Photo by Alvin Jornada)
Now, instead of Oenotri-style braised pigeon pasta, Di Fede gives us pigeon miso ramen ($17), the savory bird broth stocked with slippery noodles, pork chashu, shimeji mushroom, grilled Little Gems, leeks, black garlic and sesame.
And he sends out Paine Farms squab ($30), presented in a dramatic fashion with the feet still attached to the skin-on plump legs, splayed atop Brentwood corn, sweet Jimmy Nardello peppers and red spring onions. (Tip: don’t eat the feet.)
Executive chef/owner Curtis Di Fede stands inside the walk-up ice cream window beside the unique wood front door at Miminashi. (Photo by Alvin Jornada)
Most everything tastes as impressive as it looks, from hamachi sashimi decorated with avocado slabs and diced chives ($8), to a magurodon bowl layered with ruby red ahi, fiery daikon kimchee, radish, pickled kombu, shiitake tsukemono (pickle), Tokyo negi (onion), rice, sesame and furikake seaweed-fish seasoning ($18).
Throughout, the chef balances fat and lots of vegetables to soak up what is often a lot of salt, plus often serious jolts of heat, such as the gypsy peppers that zip up sweet fluke sashimi draped in shiso ($11).
I don’t need freshly grated wasabi ($4.50) for any of my dishes, since there’s enough spice already in the recipes.
A selection of robatayaki / yakitori, from front to rear: kawa (chicken skin), yagen nonkotsu (chicken cartilage), Tsukune (chicken meatball) with egg yolk, and momoshiniku (boneless chicken thigh) with negi (Welsh onion), at Miminashi in Napa. (Photo by Alvin Jornada)
From bacon-cabbage okonomiyaki (savory pancakes, $15) to Georgia white shrimp gyoza in vinegar-sharp shiso ginger broth ($13), selections change nearly daily. It’s like Christmas each time I open the folded paper menu.
On one visit, the ramen is tonkatsu style, creamy and meaty. It is topped in crispy pork belly, shiitakes, yuzukosho (chile-yuzu peel paste), toasted nori and a crown of onsen egg, poached inside its shell so the white is silky with a custard yolk ($17).
It’s my favorite for its umami and succulence. On another visit, the ramen is chicken paitan style, the velvety broth stocked with roasted kohlrabi, grilled Little Gems and black garlic shoyu butter ($16). It’s my favorite for its rich earthiness.
Yellowfin tuna crudo with soba dashi and sungold tomatoes at Miminashi, a Japanese izakaya, in Napa. (Photo by Alvin Jornada)
Too many favorites
There are worse problems to have than too many favorites at a restaurant; ordering gets tough since it’s all good. Still, I’ve zeroed in on recent standouts like wok-fried shimeji mushrooms tossed with crisp gypsy peppers and sugar snap peas in a bright sesame cream vinaigrette ($13), and kama yakitori, a meaty slab of salmon collar ($20) that goes marvelously with a crisp, shaved cabbage salad dressed in shiso, puffed rice curls, black sesame seeds and sharp, charred ginger vinaigrette ($10).
But I also love the asparagus, roasted over Japanese Binchotan charcoal that imbues char without smokiness. The tender spears arrive laced in negi, black garlic, a fried egg and whispery thin bonita flakes ($13), all set — like all the food — on pretty, imported pottery.
Sake at Miminashi restaurant in Napa. (Photo by Heather Irwin)
Like a true izakaya, drinking is a major component here, as is noise. Loud voices bounce across the 85 seats and communal wood bar, up into the dramatic wood-lined, 20-foot-tall modern pagoda ceiling and down into tall wood booths that look like triangular origami.
Servers deliver plates in quick succession, but once I learned to ask for slower pacing, I wasn’t racing through my ramen to get to the crisp croquette ($5) stuffed with creamy mashed potato, chicken and negi, for dunking in sweet, rice-vinegar mayonnaise.
Lorraine Tiang, left, snaps a selfie with Wan Chan after their dinner at Miminashi, a Japanese izakaya, in Napa. (Photo by Alvin Jornada)
Yet here, there’s a sommelier on staff to help navigate the 100 international wine choices, and nearly two dozen sake choices that include chilled Gunma Izumi sake ($15, Asian carafe), and a prized Junmai Daiginjo from the Niigata prefecture of western Japan ($100).
There’s Asahi Super Dry draft ($6), but also a mixologist fashioning a floral Axolotl of Olmeca Altos blanco tequila, St. Germain elderflower, makrut lime cordial, celery juice and bitters ($11).
Soft serve ice cream in a waffle bowl with sesame honeycomb topping at Miminashi, a Japanese izakaya, in Napa. (Photo by Alvin Jornada)
Is there a word for a soft-serve mixologist? There should be, since Miminashi has one who crafts the ice cream ($7) in a variety of nightly changing flavors, like bold matcha green tea, lemon verbena, sweet corn, malted chocolate and black sesame that boasts a peanut butter-like flavor.
It’s even better served in a super-crispy waffle bowl ($1), and sprinkled with add-ons like candied ginger, sesame honeycomb candy and whiskey butterscotch sauce (50 cents each). Hint: You can now snag the soft serve at a walk-up window next to the front door.
Sake cups at Miminashi restaurant in Napa. (Photo by Heather Irwin)
About that name, by the way. It’s a salute to Mimi-nashi Hoichi, a mythological character who, in a long, complicated story, ends up with his ears ripped off by a samurai. According to Di Fede, mimi-nashi also honors a Japanese tradition of a chef covering his ears with a towel when making ramen.
Over several visits, I have yet to see Di Fede sporting a turban, but he has certainly taken all the other meticulous steps in this magnificent creation.
This autumn, give your wardrobe an update with versatile and wearable pieces that you can pair with pretty much everything. Here are 10 trendy basics – available or made locally – that will take your fall outfits to a whole new level of fabulousness:
A Bomber Jacket
Bomber jackets are making a comeback for both men and women. Soft chambray gives this bomber jacket an extra dose of chic. Wear this bomber with a pair of contrasting darker denim jeans for a stylish denim-on-denim look. Or tie on a colorful silk neck scarf to add personalty and vibrance to your look.
Regis Chambray Bomber Jacket by Velvet Heart $98
Available at Macy’s, Santa Rosa Plaza, 800 Santa Rosa Plaza, Santa Rosa
The Poncho
Ponchos have been on-trend for the last several seasons, and they continue their popularity this year. Wearing a poncho is an easy way to be fashion-forward while staying warm. Add a long necklace and a pair of jeans or black pants for a stylish fall ensemble. You can also wear a poncho over a dress or with a skirt and heels for a dressier look.
Melissa Fringe Poncho $109
Available at Chico’s, Montgomery Village Shopping Center, 713 Village Ct., Santa Rosa
A Cashmere Wrap
Invest in a wardrobe item that you will keep for many decades and reach for time and time again. Himalayan Chyangra cashmere wool shawls from Pashmn & Co., based in Petaluma, are handcrafted, not machine-woven. These incredibly soft shawls come in an array of beautiful colors, weaves and wool blends – you can even pick out the type of fringe you’d like, if any. With our ever-changing temperatures and micro-climates here in Sonoma County, you won’t want to leave the house without your wrap any time of year. They are perfect for travel too.
Your fall wardrobe will benefit from a great fitting pair of classic black pants. These ponte ankle pants from White House Black Market have a modern cut and are made with soft, comfortable and forgiving ponte material. Wear them to the office with a button down tailored blouse, skinny belt and pumps or out on the town with a black beaded silky tunic and strappy, get-noticed heels.
Ponte Slim Ankle Pants $79
Available at White House Black Market, Montgomery Village Shopping Center, 706 Village Ct., Santa Rosa
Cropped Jeans
Not ready to give up your summery cropped pants just yet? You don’t need to with these Cropped Flare Jeans from Old Navy that have a touch of fringe at the hem. Wear these mid-rise jeans with a pair of stylish booties, a slouchy t-shirt and a long knit cardigan for a boho chic look for fall. If you’re in between sizes, size down.
This tunic-style Little Black Dress from Bay Area designer Lesley Evers will be your go-to dress for the office, a party, or out wine tasting with friends. The dress’s length, just above the knee, and 3/4 sleeves make it flattering on nearly every figure. Dress it up with black heeled Mary Jane pumps, a statement necklace and black clutch or wear it casually with a denim jacket, wool scarf, tote bag and tall low-heeled boots. This dress is machine washable and made in the USA.
Carey Black Dress $168
Available at Lesley Evers, 211 Town Center, Corte Madera
A Timeless Leather Handbag
Few colors say “autumn in Wine Country” more than a deep, rich burgundy shade. This versatile hue works well with most fall shades. The Carlyle bag from Bella Vita Sonoma is a 100% leather shoulder bag with a canvas lining and a timeless look. Carry all your essentials in its handy compartments. There is even an interior pocket for your tablet which snaps closed. The Carlyle also comes in an always classic black.
Carlyle Bag $225
Available at Bella Vita Sonoma, 457 1st St. W., Sonoma
Leopard Print
While the leopard and cheetah print trend has never gone entirely out of style, it may have taken a backseat in recent years. This season it’s taking center stage once again. Look for leopard print dresses, handbags, coats, belts and shoes like these darling flats by Matt Benson from Tamarind at The Barlow. Wear these flats with cropped and ankle pants, dresses and skirts and try wearing them with a bright color. One of my favorite colors to wear with leopard prints is fire engine red!
These handcrafted distressed leather short boots by BED STU will take you into both fall and winter. Wear them with dresses, skirts, and jeans for a ruggedly stylish cool weather look. BED STU uses traditional cobbling techniques to create their much sought-after designs. Their boots are a favorite among stars like Taylor Swift and Brody Jenner. Shop for an array of BED STU boots – both short and tall – at Robindira Unsworth Boutique in Petaluma.
BED| STU Short Boots $245
Available at Robindira Unsworth Boutique, 115 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma
A Long Beaded Pendant Necklace
Elongate your silhouette and add texture, interest and color to your outfit with a beautiful handmade beaded necklace from Meghan Bo Designs of Sonoma. These beauties are 72″ long and made with an assortment of beads, gold accents and a pendant. Available in Amazonite with Arrowhead, Jasper with Tusk and Turquoise and Black with Long Horn.
Groovin’ to the music at the Petaluma River Craft Beer Festival. (Photo by Tim Vallery)
20 local breweries kept the beer flowing in the Indian summer heat on Saturday as the Petaluma River Craft Beer Festival returned for its fourth consecutive year.
Set along the Water Street promenade in Petaluma’s historic downtown, this year’s beer fest quenched the thirst of sun-soaked visitors with a select lineup of cool brews.
A few festival highlights: Cooperage Brewing served their new Ancient Chinese Secrets IPA; Lagunitas came in full force with their classic IPA, Born (Again) Yesterday, 12th of Never Pale Ale, and Tuberfest; St. Florian’s owner and brewer, Aron Levin, poured his Extreme and 48/96; and Moylan’s featured their new Session IPA. Brewers from other parts of the Bay Area made guest appearances, including Headlands Brewing and Marin Brewing Company. (View the full list of breweries here.)
Karly from Crooked Goat Brewing serves beer at the Petaluma River Craft Beer Festival.
The festival also served up locally sourced bites and beats: Rosso Pizzeria, Palm’s Grill, Bellyful Dinners, Secret Kitchen, Velasco’s, Beyond the Glory, Brasil BBQ, Sax’s Joint, Nopalito and Charley’s provided food tastings, accompanied by live performances from Petaluma Pete, Randy and the Special Agents, and Sugar Moon.
Brian from Moonlight Brewing enjoying the day at Petaluma River Craft Beer Festival. (Photo by Tim Vallery)
A $40 ticket covered admission and included 10 tickets for beer pours and food. The festival, sponsored by Petaluma Valley Rotary and Petaluma Chamber of Commerce, donates all proceeds to Petaluma River projects, non-profits and community activities. This is a great event, so make sure to keep it on your radar for next year! petalumarivercraftbeerfest.org
Locals having fun at the Petaluma River Craft Beer Festival. (Photo by Tim Vallery)Enjoying the view of the river at Petaluma River Craft Beer Festival. (Photo by Tim Vallery)Fogbelt pouring their wet hopped Saison at Petaluma River Craft Beer Festival.Aron from St. Florian’s working hard!
The Washoe’s new owner gave the landmark a fresh coat of red paint. (Photo / Chris Hardy)
The Washoe House in Petaluma.
In its earliest years, Sonoma County was home to many roadhouses, most now long abandoned, but important to weary travelers in their day. There was the Llano Roadhouse in Sebastopol (1850-1874), Emil Alber’s One Mile House (1900-1909) in Sonoma and Donahue Roadhouse (1951–1960) on Lakeville Highway in Petaluma, plus plenty of obscure others.
United in their style of two-story clapboard structures to host overnight guests at $1 a night, their locations along rural wagon roads, these roadhouses also offered reliable comforts of decent food and hard drink, plus sometimes dancing and gambling.
As times changed and development boomed, however, roadhouses became seedier spots. Hotel rooms turned to brothels, more than a few lives were lost in bar shootouts, and customers usually were weathered drunks nursing morning-afternoon-evening beers at the bar.
Later, a roadhouse might be a biker bar or worse (think the 1989 movie “Road House” with Patrick Swayze). And the food became dull.
Yet who doesn’t love the idea of a little debauchery? Departed spirits, ribald history and crusty personalities? These reinvented roadhouses are becoming a Sonoma statement once again, resurrected as destinations that everyone, from hipsters to families, can enjoy just as much as that toothless guy tying one on at 10 a.m.
Some patrons happen on Rossi’s 1906 in Sonoma when they’re out on a ride. (Photo by Chris Hardy)
ROSSI’S 1906
Bringing authentic back to the old place, Sonoma
After Max Young purchased the former Little Switzerland out of foreclosure three years ago, his goal was clear: bring back the original spirit of the neighborhood hideaway that had devolved over decades from a lively roadhouse to an aging dance hall, and finally, a bar.
So he sat down in the dusty space and listened to the walls.
“I love old places, and I felt I had a responsibility to history,” said Young, whose wife, Karen, is from the longtime Bruschera family of Sonoma. “Anyone can open something new, but for an authentic place, you can’t create what’s there. It just is.”
Bryan Tatum pours drinks for a Friday night crowd at Rossi’s 1906. (Photo by Connor Jay)
It may be hard to believe now, but when Swiss-Italian founder Al Rossi first opened Little Switzerland 110 years ago, the adjacent Boyes Hot Springs community was a resort destination, drawing well-heeled tourists coming for annual retreats fueled by the natural underground hot mineral waters.
By 1920, the area, known as “The Springs,” was a glamorous vacationland visited by as many as 70,000 travelers annually, according to the Sonoma Valley Historical Society’s Depot Park Museum.
“The train used to stop just two blocks away from here,” Young said. But then, the Great Depression hit in 1929, the rail closed, and the area faded into the mishmash rural neighborhood it is today.
Live music and the dance floor draw a crowd at Rossi’s 1906. (Photo by Chris Hardy)
Little Switzerland changed hands several times, yet stayed true to its Alpine theme and became a locals’ favorite for live polka music and dancing, big pasta dinners and beer. Seniors and families with children spun on the parquet dance floor, with more than a few lederhosen-clad gents in the crowd. Still, neglect took its toll as the interior decayed and the menu featured chewy Hungarian veal schnitzel over soggy noodles.
It took more than a year of refurbishing for what was, as Young said, “not funky fun, but a nasty place with old-beer smell.” Now, the charm is palpable. It’s still a work in progress, Young admitted, with the 4,405-square-foot building that’s split, as it’s always been, between a front bar and a back dining room that’s been enhanced with a rebuilt live music stage, full bar and doors leading to an enormous patio shaded by ancient trees.
Guests take advantage of the nice Sonoma weather on the patio at Rossi’s 1906. (Photo by Conner Jay)
Young repainted, re-floored with reclaimed barn wood, re-paneled and refurnished, but he left the core intact. That’s why the patio is gussied with a fancy new deck, yet it’s still enclosed by tall, locally quarried stone walls topped with — weird, but perfect — coils of barbed wire.
Late last year, Young hired on-site chef Adam Shoebridge, a South Carolina native who has cooked across the South, in New England, Australia, and at Sonoma’s El Dorado Kitchen.
Families come and go from Rossi’s 1906 in Sonoma. (Photo by Conner Jay)
“I quickly learned that people can love the room, but unless the food is really, really good, they aren’t going to come back,” said Young, who also owns McNally’s Irish Pub in Oakland, and HiFi Lounge, Bamboo Hut and Mr. Smith’s in San Francisco. “Especially in Sonoma. It doesn’t have to be fancy food; you’re never going to find foam or microgreens here. But it’s got to be excellent.”
He also beefed up the music program, diversifying with groups including Get Dead electric-acoustic punk rock, T-Luke & the Tight Suits zydeco, and the Dixie Giants Brass Band. On any given evening, rough-and-tumble blue-collar drinkers sit next to fleece-vested winemakers and 20-somethings sipping craft cocktails.
A quiet afternoon at Rossi’s 1906 in Sonoma. (Photo by Chris Hardy)
“Everyone comes now,” Young said. “We had a 100th birthday party here, a 50th anniversary, and a second birthday party. We’ll get a guy in black tie on his way home from a winery event, sitting next to a dude in work boots. And lots of people just sort of stumble on us when they’re cruising around.”
No matter what changes Young makes in the future, one thing is destined to live forever: the Heidi-like Swiss murals on the dining room walls. Cleaned up and refreshed, they add that incomparable nostalgic salute to a space that has been reborn.
The Twin Oaks Tavern has welcomed travelers on Old Redwood Highway since 1924. (Photo by Chris Hardy)
TWIN OAKS TAVERN
Keeping a distinctive cowboy character intact, Penngrove
The first thing Dean Biersch did after acquiring this venerable jewel in December 2015 was console the locals that he would upgrade, but not change, the character.
Since opening in 1924, the Oaks had sat mostly alone in what is still a postage stamp of a town, catering to souls traveling the main thoroughfare, Old Redwood Highway. It was an agricultural crowd, because at that time, Penngrove was known as the “Egg Capital of the World,” later losing the title to neighboring Petaluma.
This was also the place ranchers went for home-brewed beer served on the down-low by Vernon and Frances Hoar during Prohibition. As the story goes, if you wanted a beer, you requested “a hoar.”
The “Must be 21” sign is out of date; the pub’s license now allows families with children. (Photo by Chris Hardy)
While the place declined as the years dragged on, it held on better than most, thanks to a friendly cowboy atmosphere and nicely done, slow-smoked barbecue. Things brightened noticeably in 2013, when new owner Sheila Groves Tracy took over and cleaned up what she called “a honky-tonk juke joint.” She remodeled the patio, established a solid calendar of live music acts, and dressed up the menu with such treats as homemade chicken potpie and gumbo.
The music drew in Biersch, who hosts similar top-rated shows at his HopMonk Taverns in Sonoma, Sebastopol and Novato.
“There are so many layered generations here,” Biersch said. “I love that. It’s like a time warp. So I’m very mindful that this is a huge responsibility, to preserve its core DNA but bring even more energy.”
Bartender Dorothy Drew serves a regular customer at Twin Oaks Tavern. (Photo by John Burgess)
In fact, he hopes his changes won’t be noticeable, as he rolls them out over the coming year. First, Tracy stayed on as music booker, adding an open-mic schedule and Biersch’s favorite bluegrass genre, along with her signature selections of country, honky-tonk, soul, blues and rock bands. The dance floor is new, and Biersch installed a vintage jukebox cranking retro hits from Hank Williams, Led Zeppelin and Lynyrd Skynyrd.
He expanded and upgraded the outdoor beer garden and altered the pub’s operating license to allow families with children. An upper-level dance floor has new windows and a taller ceiling. The kitchen will be overhauled as well, perhaps this summer, for a more extensive chefcaliber, locally sourced menu, and added beers made by small, independent and traditional brewers.
Beer fans can choose among many local brews on tap at the bar at Twin Oaks Tavern. (Photo by Chris Hardy)
“We put three beer towers on the bar, for 15 to 18 choices on tap,” Biersch said. “Sonoma County has so many great brewers, and we’re sharing their stories.”
He’s confident about his storytellers, too.
“We interviewed all the staff to see who wanted to stay on,” he said. “And we hired back every single person.”
Washoe Roadhouse in Petaluma. (Photo by Chris Hardy)
WASHOE HOUSE
No messing with tradition — or the ghosts, Petaluma
Over the many decades, employees at Washoe House in Petaluma have learned never to say “ghost” out loud.
Too often, they’ve had nervous customers bolt out the door. But more than anything, the attention irritates the ghosts, some of whom have hung around the roadhouse since it opened in 1859 as a stagecoach stop for pioneers and rushers traveling to Gold Country.
The Washoe Roadhouse Piano that has been there since the 1800s. The animal heads once hung upstairs, where the bordello once was. (Photo by Chris Hardy)
“I’m not going to mess with them,” server Colleen Conrad said, looking cautiously over her shoulder as she set down a guest’s burger on a chilly winter day. “People think I’m joking, but some of these ghosts get cranky.”
She’s seen phantom little girls running around, next to apparitional card players at the dining room tables, and Victorian-clad figures watching from the upstairs windows.
“Most are happy, but one tickled me with string, some have yelled at me, and one followed me to my car,’ Conrad said. “And they have rules, like no women allowed in the bar.”
Whether she’s pulling a leg or not isn’t the point.
Why the cash in the ceiling at Washoe House? Legend has it that Gold Rush travelers used the ceiling as a bank, signing their bills to be reclaimed upon their return. More often than not, successful miners used their “lucky” currency to buy a lady a drink. (Photo by Chris Hardy)
A Penngrove resident who has worked at Washoe for two years, Conrad is a master storyteller and as such, a gem of an ambassador for the classic roadhouse. Her tales make the experience more fun, the food and drink more flavorful, and epitomize the appeal of such watering holes: rich history, marvelously woven, if sometimes fanciful, backstories, and clutches of colorful characters bending ears at the bar.
No matter what else changes, there’ll always be a burger and fries on the menu at Washoe House. (Photo by Chris Hardy)
The hundreds, perhaps thousands, of dollar bills tacked to the bar ceiling are just one proof of the 157 years the two-story, red clapboard roadhouse has celebrated on Stony Point Road at Roblar Road.
After its stagecoach-stop days ended, it housed a brothel, a butcher shop and then a post office. Its sturdy rock foundation and redwood frame anchored with hand-beaten square nails survived the earthquake of 1906, and in 1999, the place grasped a bit of fame, featured in Clint Eastwood’s movie “True Crime.”
In between, its fans brewed up tales aplenty. Unfounded stories include Gen. Ulysses S. Grant pontificating from the bar’s balcony, and a day when angry Petaluma activists stormed Santa Rosa for some reason or other, lost steam on arrival, and ended up bringing their foes back to get pickled in beer at the roadhouse.
A night at Washoe House in Petaluma. (Photo by Chris Hardy)
“Sure, we get some whack-a-doodles in here,” server Colleen Conrad said of the clientele that tends to hunker over drinks, though it’s beginning to include younger folks. “But a little nuts is fun.”
To this day, Washoe remains surrounded by fields of grazing cattle, and the parking lot is often full of mudcaked pickups. Expensive Harley-Davidson bikes and sports cars have been known to pull up. For the past 33 years, the structure was owned and operated by Bill and Edith Drew and their daughters, Cheryl Jensen and Patti Tobin. Bill died in 2006, and Jensen took over.
So when Larry Peter, owner of Petaluma’s Spring Hill Jersey Cheese, purchased the business in 2015, he accepted the ghosts and promised not “to mess with tradition.”
He tidied things up a little, slapped on a gleaming fresh coat of red paint outside, and hung 6-foot-long mirrors on the ancient, peeling floral brocade wallpaper perfumed with decades of fried chicken and laughter. New wood tables sit proudly atop the trampled down carpet — the guy who installed the rug decades ago is a regular and promised that there is no heritage wood beneath.
A deck is being built for outdoor dining, and the second-floor private-party space might get spruced up a bit. Other than that, guests can still savor the framed wreath of flowers and human hair from a deceased visitor, the singles that hang like tattered bats from the ceiling, and the rough wood bar stained with endless wet-glass rings and soaked-in liquor. The old-fashioned lanterns still bathe the largely wrinkled faces of customers in a yellowish glow.
A new chef was hired and the menu updated. Meals now start with sliced Spring Hill cheeses, and end with complimentary Spring Hill ice cream. The food in between remains standard stuff of hamburgers and frozen fries, but there is also a good lamb stew over polenta, and classy touches such as iced tea served in a carafe.
Still, as loud voices echoed around the dining room about a “Hot Rod” game that seems to involve beer and musical tables, then quickly switched to clamoring about volunteering for a community fundraiser, it was impossible to not feel the love.
“Really, the energy is so great and happy,” Conrad said, clearing the table. “I couldn’t be here if it wasn’t. The ghosts aren’t malevolent, it’s just that we’re in their home.”
2840 Stony Point Road, Petaluma, 707-795-4544, visit on Facebook.
Fork Roadhouse. (Photo by Chris Hardy)
FORK ROADHOUSE
A dubious past gives way to a fresh approach, Sebastopol
The cute little roadhouse on Bodega Highway just west of Sebastopol has been several things, most recently a succession of shortlived restaurants including Two Crows Roadhouse, P30, Saint Rose, Claudio’s and Stillwater Kitchen. After being built in 1930 as a 1,006-squarefoot- home, the now-pretty red and yellow building attracted the attention of its neighbors, rumor goes, as it morphed into a bordello.
In January 2015, new owner Sarah Piccolo hosted her grand-opening party with free mimosas and nary a lady of the evening in sight, having exorcised any dubious past with a charming, wood and cream interior that’s airy with lots of windows and flanked by a lovely slate patio for alfresco meals made elegant with serenades from a hippie, white-bearded harp player.
Following a succession of short-lived restaurants, Fork Roadhouse is drawing locals and travelers alike with superb food, such as its pork belly and fried egg taco plate. (Photo by Chris Hardy)
The roadhouse mood still pervades, though, in the pastoral setting flanked by meadows and fruit orchards; the place is a happy surprise for folks traversing the winding road to west county. It’s a happier surprise if the cafe is open, since service is limited to Thursday through Sunday.
“We get the locals who have spent some or most of their lives planting apple trees, grapes or olives,” Piccolo said. “I think it’s because a roadhouse is solid, no BS. It’s a great place to see all walks of life, where the rough meets the curious, sophisticated types. Come as you are.”
Patio dining at Fork Roadhouse on Bodega Ave. east of Sebastopol. (Photo by John Burgess)
The food is superb, certainly, much elevated from any expected roadhouse fare. The menu espouses organic, local, seasonal farm-to-table dishes such as polenta topped in Laura Chenel chevre, braised organic kale, poached egg and gomasio (Japanese sesame salt spice), and short ribs braised in Gabriel Farm’s apple pear, hoisin and lime sauce with horseradish mashed potatoes and asparagus.
Yet even if there’s Petaluma-brewed Revive Kombucha served alongside North Coast Brewing Scrimshaw or Bear Republic Racer 5 IPA on tap, this isn’t a buttoned-up crowd.
“We definitely get our regulars, some with a crazy life now or in their past lives,” Piccolo said. “Farmers, growers, former techies, musicians, stagehands — you never know who you might cozy up next to at our bar. Being located in such a desirable area, you honestly never know who’s who. And it’s always a nice surprise when you find out who they really are.”
The Fremont Diner in Sonoma is famous for its chicken and waffles. The wait for a plate can be up to an hour on busy weekends, but these chicken and waffles transport your taste buds straight to the South. (Photo by John Burgess)
Whether it’s a classic lodge or a mobile home, Sonoma roadhouses promise distinct personalities. These tucked-away treasures take a drive to reach, but the journey is a big part of the fun.
STORMY’S RESTAURANT
Established in 1854, this “Spirits & Supper House” is one of the oldest roadhouses in the West, owned by the Cramer family since 1961. It may also be the most remote, as the only remaining commercial business in the now whisper-size town of Bloomfield. It thrived during the Gold Rush, but fluttered to near-death after a planned rail line bypassed it and the 1906 earthquake flattened most of its buildings. Originally known as Big Valley House, the dark wood structure now embraces a loyal clientele of ranchers, artists and anyone who’s discovered very good prime rib and fried chicken at rock-bottom prices. Plan on leftovers, too, since each meal comes with homemade clam chowder, salad with creamy Italian dressing, potato, vegetables and French bread. The full bar tempts, the wood-burning fireplace warms, and a new deck is great for stargazing, since there’s nary a light in the surrounding, endless acres of farmland.
Owner, chef and barbecue pit master Chad Harris can be credited with starting the roadhouse revitalization trend in 2009, when he opened his eatery in a low wooden building surrounded mostly by Carneros vineyards and dairies. The place previously was Babe’s Burgers & Franks takeout stand for what seemed like forever; Harris, a former caterer, repainted and fluffed it a bit, then whipped into action when crowds — and more crowds — converged on his updated tiny dining room with counter seating and picnic-table-set patio.
The mood is rustic farm, with vintage pie cabinets, antique soda crates and an old, rusted truck in front.
But the food is sumptuous: a fluffy yeasted waffle made with corn and sorghum; spicy fried chicken served with a choice of white bread, mac and cheese or waffle; a killer burger; and a Pacific Coast oyster sandwich with arugula, remoulade and bacon with a side salad and juniper-pickled red onions. Sip wine or beer, and save room for caramel cake.
It’s not actually a casino, but a pool hall and tavern opened in 1939 by Nebo Casini, an entrepreneur who figured a twist on his family name would help attract attention for his fledging business. (It did offer a few slot machines until 1949, when Nebo sold the joint to his brother and sister-in-law, Art and Evelyn Casini.) Built as Goodman’s General Mercantile in 1874, next to the St. Teresa of Avila Church made famous by Alfred Hitchcock’s thriller, “The Birds,” the faded white wood building looks scruffy on the outside, dark and dingy on the inside, yet serves terrific locally sourced cuisine. Chefs and daily menus rotate during the week, but if Mark Malicki is in the house, the food is extra-good. Either way, look for superb, eclectic dishes such as a noodle bowl with pork-bone broth, fried egg, silken tofu and seaweed; diver scallops with wild rice, peppery puy lentils and fennel cream; and olive oilorange cake with whipped cream and grapefruit.
Not a true roadhouse, it’s actually a refurbished double-wide trailer with a big bar and an outdoor stage for every kind of weekend music, including French funk folk and Rolling Stones covers. Yet owner Brad Metzger keeps things family friendly (there’s a big swimming pool on-site), and the small Russian River neighborhood that surrounds it is home to lots of cordial regulars who will cheerfully suggest their favorite local beers from the 15 on tap. The betterthan- trailer-grub includes homemade French onion soup, half-pound burgers, a Reuben, thin-crust pizza and delicious slow-roasted pulled pork with Boont Amber Ale slaw. If the trailer is more modern-day, the surrounding land has plenty of history, dating to 1860 when a redwood mill operated there. It evolved to a community of bungalows and cabins in 1907, and by the 1920s, the river town had turned resort retreat, famous for its open-air dance hall and raucous dance bands. Did someone say dance?
A version of this article originally ran in Sonoma Magazine in March 2016.
Phyllis Thiebaut, long time patron of El Verano Inn, stands on the front of Sonoma stands on the patio of Sonoma’s El Verano Inn. Thiebaut has been a patron of the El Verano Inn for the last 30 years. (Photo by Crista Jeremiason )
EL VERANO INN (contributed by Dianne Reber Hart)
Even teetotalers get tipsy at the El Verano Inn, where the floor of the historic building has a decidedly downward and outward slant. No one complains. It’s part of the charm and character of the 1887 building, a wooden two-story false-front structure that started out as Mullen’s General Merchandise Store back when the railroad made several trips through town. The renegade floor speaks to a building constructed on a low water table without a foundation and victim of several questionable remodels throughout its 127-year history.
In addition to serving as a general mercantile, the building housed a post office, bus depot, various taverns and a few apartment rooms; was a meeting place for religious Catechism classes and, according to some but disputed by others, a brothel in its earlier years.
Owners Leslie and Richard Danon purchased the building in 1998 to run a bar, only to face a costly rehabilitation ordered by the county in 2009. When the bar reopened after more than six months of repairs, patrons raised a toast to both the past and the future. It’s a place where old-time photos and mementos like square-head nails and layers of lead paint on an original redwood remnant tell its history; where standing-room-only punk-rock nights bring in Millennials just old enough to legally drink.
“Hands-down, it’s the friendliest bar in town,” Leslie Danon said of the unassuming watering hole. “It’s historical by day, hysterical by night.”
705 Laurel Ave, El Verano, 95476 Sonoma, (707) 935-0611, elveranoinn.com
Farmer’s Guild Executive Director Evan Wiig at the Farmer Olympics in 2016.
Watermelon seed spitting, goat milking, bee data collection and squash bowling? Welcome to the annual Farmer Olympics sponsored by the Farmer’s Guild. Held at the Petaluma Fairgrounds on Sept. 17 ,2016, it’s a celebration of agriculture in Sonoma County, with plenty of food, beer, kefir, and kombucha. Plus a whole lot of family fun.
A new generation of young farmers are giving Sonoma County farms a fresh outlook, and bringing 20 and 30-year old dreamers back to the land. And our cowboy hats are off to them. Want to find out more about what’s happening? Farmer’s Guild, or read more about some inspiring local farmers here.
