Russian River Valley Rosé: 15 Sonoma County Wineries to Visit

By Shana Bull
MacRostie Winery in Healdsburg, California
Outdoor tasting area at MacRostie Winery in the Russian River Valley. (MacRostie Winery)

Spring is here. For wine lovers, that can only mean one thing: rosé season is finally upon us. While there may still be rainy days ahead, weekends spent on patios and in backyards – pink wine in hand – are not far off.

In Sonoma County, rosé drinkers can choose from a wide variety of flavor profiles and it can be hard to pick a favorite. To highlight some outstanding rosé producers, we’re breaking it down by region.

First out, the Russian River Valley. This cool climate region is perfect for chardonnay and pinot noir grapes, so most of the rosés made here are pinot noir based. Wines from this part of Sonoma County, including sub-appellations Chalk Hill and Green Valley, are known for their ripe cherry, tangy cranberry, and earthy flavors. Click through the gallery for some of our favorites.

‘Unhappy Hour’ in Healdsburg Highlights the Gender Pay Gap

By Chelsea Kurnick
Co-founders Tara Heffernon and Laura Sanfilippo mixing drinks at Duke’s Spirited Cocktails. (Photo Credit: Nat and Cody Gantz)

Upset about the gender pay gap? On Tuesday, April 2, you can raise a glass to hardworking (and underpaid) women around the world during “Un-Happy Hour” at Duke’s Spirited Cocktails in Healdsburg.

The event, co-hosted by the Healdsburg American Association of University Women (AAUW), will highlight the persistent wage discrepancy by offering women patrons a 20 percent discount on drinks. (In 2017, American women earned on average 80 percent of what men earned, according to AAUW, a disparity that gets even greater when you contrast the wages of women of color with those of white men). The Healdsburg happening is part of a nationwide campaign to mark “Equal Pay Day,” the symbolic day up to which the average woman must work in a particular year to catch up with what her male counterpart earned the previous year. (Men are welcome to attend the event, but will not receive discounted drinks.)

Bridge the Gap at the Tap at Duke's Equal Pay Day Un-Happy Hour, hosted by Healdsburg AAUW
Bridge the gap at the tap at Duke’s Equal Pay Day Un-Happy Hour, hosted by Healdsburg AAUW

In addition to discounted drinks, Duke’s will also serve up a special drinks menu on April 2. Created by Duke co-founders Tara Heffernon and Laura Sanfilippo, it will feature libations produced by women distillers and winemakers. The Ledbetter Punch, for example, will pay homage to Lilly Ledbetter, women’s equality activist and plaintiff in the Supreme Court case Ledbetter v. Goodyear Tire & Rubber Co (Ledbetter sued Goodyear for gender discrimination, alleging that the company had given her a low salary because of her gender. Her name is attached to the Fair Pay Act of 2009).

In a wine and spirits world long dominated by men, Duke’s Spirited Cocktails is among a number of local establishments that pay tribute to women distillers and bartenders. This past month, they have poured a Wild Women Do cocktail to celebrate Women’s History Month and the launch of the Women’s Cocktail Collective, a collaboration aimed to “elevate and amplify the voices of all women in the industry.” Fifty percent of sales from the drink, which is made with Square One Organic Vodka, Pür Pear Likör, Buddha’s Hand Shrub, and lemon, will be donated to the National Women’s History Museum.

Wild Women Do cocktail at Duke’s Spirited Cocktails in Healdsburg.

Heffernon and Sanfilippo are also featured in a 2019 Bay Area Bar Women calendar, produced in partnership with Scottish spirits company Edrington. The calendar spotlights women from twelve influential Bay Area bars with the subjects dressed up as influential and inspiring women. Heffernon and Sanfilippo appear in September as paleontologists Annie Alexander and Louise Kellogg.

“So many of the other female bartenders were being powerful and sexy entertainers…We’re Sonoma County farmers and we wanted to portray women connected to the land,” said Heffernon. 

(The calendar is for sale at Duke’s – all proceeds benefit the Helen David Relief Fund for Bartenders Affected by Breast Cancer and the American Foundation for Suicide Prevention. Edrington is matching 100 percent of donations.)

Heffernon, a Healdsburg local, says that creating the Healdsburg bar with her longtime friends has been a dream. In June, it celebrates its three-year anniversary. 

While weekends get crowded at the bar, she says that weeknights are all about the locals. “We get to make nerdy craft cocktails but without the pompousness that can sometimes go along with that. It doesn’t matter who you are or what you order or what you’re wearing or what your day was like – we just want you to come in and feel very, very welcome.”

Equal Pay Day unHappy hour will take place from 4:00 to 6:00 p.m. at 111 Plaza St. in Healdsburg.

Where to Find Cheese Tea in Sonoma County, More Local Food News

By biteclub

Cheese Tea, Found

A few months back, I was on the hunt for Cheese Tea (or Chizu Tea), a popular southeast Asian trend that tastes much better than it sounds. Think boba tea with heavy whipped cream on top (which is actually a mixture of cream cheese and heavy cream). We found it here in Sonoma County at East Wind Bakery (3851 Sebastopol Road #109, Santa Rosa).

It’s always been a favorite for east-meets-west pastries like Baonuts (donuts made with bao dough and filled with exotic fruits and cream); churro croissants, cupcakes and kimchi pork but, cheese tea? It’s way better than a tired Frappuccino any day. Get the Thai Coffee cheese tea to launch you into the day, with cheesy foam and boba balls at the bottom. Don’t miss grabbing a couple of sweets while you’re there. Open 8a.m. to 4p.m. Wednesday through Friday, Sat/Sun 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., closed Monday and Tuesday, eastwindbakery.com.

Sweet Pea Bakery

Could we finally be getting some decent bagels in these parts? A quick stop at Sweet Pea Bakery in Sonoma turned up some ridiculously good rosemary asiago bagels that, while not exactly New York style, were chewy and crispy and surprisingly delish. We also liked the Kouign Amann, a sweet, flaky pastry with caramelized sugar and more butter than you’d like to think about.  720 W. Napa St., Sonoma, sweetpeanapa.com.

New/Old Chef at The Fountaingrove Club

Chef Patrick Tafoya, who you may remember from P/30 and several other Sonoma County restaurants has returned to Sonoma County after several years in the midwest. He’s taken on the position of executive chef at the Fountaingrove Club, a membership-only golf and country club. Welcome back, Patrick!

Where to Find International Food in Sonoma County

By Maci Martell
Marinated mussels, marinated vegetables, goat stew with fingerling potatoes and fried piri piri potatoes at Tasca Tasca in Sonoma. (Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)

It’s no secret Sonoma County offers a wide variety of exquisite cuisine, from upscale tapas to $2 street tacos. Mexican, Japanese and Thai food are commonplace in the county, but the international fare goes much deeper. For all the Sonoma County foodies out there, we’ve rounded up a fascinating lineup of eclectic food and dishes you might be surprised to find right here in Wine Country. Click through the gallery for details. 

Village Bakery Will Rise Again After Devastating Flood

By biteclub
Village Bakery general manager Lisa Schroeder shows an employee how high the water level reach during flooding last week in the Barlow business district in Sebastopol. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

(Updated 3/29/19) The sourdough will rise again at Village Bakery. It’s just going to take a few more months, says manager Lisa Schroeder.

In late February, amid the multi-day downpour that drenched the region, the popular bakery’s Sebastopol production facility at The Barlow flooded along with many other businesses in the upscale food and business center along the Laguna de Santa Rosa.

The bakery’s 3,500-square-foot production kitchen — from which it distributed to more than 200 commercial accounts, including K & L Bistro and Stark’s Steak and Seafood restaurants — was declared 
a total loss.

Mike Ramirez throws away trays of cookies and other pastries at the Village Bakery in the Barlow business district in Sebastopol on Monday. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Mike Ramirez throws away trays of cookies and other pastries at the Village Bakery in the Barlow business district in Sebastopol on Monday. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Owner Patrick Lum said he was forced to lay off 60 employees with no clear idea of when the bakery could reopen at that location.

“The employees are the heart and soul of our company. I hate seeing them go, but I hope they stay with us. We want everyone back, whether that’s realistic or not. I do understand if they have to leave, they have families,” said Lum.

Adding to the bakery’s difficult month, Lum’s wife Teresa also suffered a serious heart condition after hearing the news of the loss and required hospitalization for several weeks.

Mike Ramirez shovels water-logged bread dough into garbage bins outside of Village Bakery in the Barlow business district in Sebastopol on Monday. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Mike Ramirez shovels water-logged bread dough into garbage bins outside of Village Bakery in the Barlow business district in Sebastopol on Monday. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Cleanup work is progressing, and the Lums have now signaled that they are poised to reopen the bakery and move forward with a separate retail location in Santa Rosa’s Montgomery Village.

“It’s a matter of when,” Lum said of a reopening that Schroeder tentatively pegged for early summer. “But we’re not closing.

“It’s not really up to us right now,” Lum said. “We’re still assessing our equipment and things are up in the air.”

“We’re a Sonoma County staple, but it’s going to be a minute,” said Schroeder. “It’s longer than we wanted it to be, but the drywall is going back up. There is progress. We are working with The Barlow management/ownership to get up and running as soon as possible.”

As well, the closure has been difficult for the bakery’s wholesale customers, who have had to find different bakeries to fulfill their needs.

“We literally didn’t know how good we had it until they were gone. We had a symbiotic relationship with them,” said Lucas Martin, owner of K&L Bistro in Sebastopol. Martin said he has worked with three other bakeries since the closure of Village Bakery. He said the restaurant used their bread, rolls, and English muffins.

“It was just perfect for the style of food that we do. It’s just a huge loss,” he said. “The whole Barlow thing is a tragedy. I’m thrilled they’re going back in.”

Like many other businesses at The Barlow, Village Bakery didn’t have flood insurance, which Lum said was prohibitively costly. The site is located within the floodplain of the adjacent Laguna, and water in the bakery and neighboring businesses rose as high as 6 feet at the peak of the storm’s runoff. Several employees were in the building when the flooding occurred and had to be evacuated, Lum said.

Village Bakery general manager Lisa Schroeder cleans up after last week's flood waters reached about 3 feet in the Barlow business district in Sebastopol on Monday. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Village Bakery general manager Lisa Schroeder cleans up after last week’s flood waters reached about 3 feet in the Barlow business district in Sebastopol on Monday. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

“We thought we would be protected. We felt safe in terms of flood losses,” he said. Lum isn’t yet sure how much his losses have totaled but said it was “hundreds of thousands (of dollars) at least.”

“You have to put things in perspective. The loss is sad, but it could have been worse. There’s a lot of worse things in the world,” he said.

The bakery lost not just inventory, but much of its heavy duty equipment. The floodwaters, according to the owners, contained gasoline, kitchen grease and sewage, making cleanup incredibly difficult and hazardous.

“We have to sanitize everything. We want to make sure that when people come back to us we’re as good as they remember,” Lum said.

Workers try to upright a cold case tipped over in last week's flooding in the Village Bakery in the Barlow business district in Sebastopol on Monday. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Workers try to upright a cold case tipped over in last week’s flooding in the Village Bakery in the Barlow business district in Sebastopol on Monday. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Schroeder, who has worked for Village Bakery for six years, said the cleaning and repair is an onerous task. Its been happening at the bakery as well as adjacent flooded businesses for weeks.

In addition to the Sebastopol bakery, which had both production space and a retail store, Village Bakery plans to open a retail store in Montgomery Village at the former Michelle Marie’s Patisserie. That spot is under construction, and cannot open until a production facility is back in operation. Village Bakery’s longtime location in the Town and Country shopping center has closed in preparation for their Montgomery Village opening, meaning that the bakery currently has no retail operations.

Schroeder says they’ve had a huge outpouring of love from the community.

“People keep trying to come in. I get emails asking every day for seeded sourdough,” she says.

You can help the Village Bakery family get back on its feet: Contribute to their GoFundMe

This is the first in a series on food purveyors and restaurants navigating recovery after the Sebastopol flooding in February 2019

From Stewarts Point to Gualala: A Perfect Day Trip In and Around Sea Ranch

By John Beck & Meg McConahey

The words Sea Ranch conjure up images of weathered wood, cabins and barns purposely designed to not call attention to themselves, blending like old farm buildings into the coastal meadows.

More than half century after the first of its structures went up, Sea Ranch stewards are still committed to maintaining the coastal enclave’s original design ethos of “living lightly on the land,” as defined by its celebrated designer, landscape architect Lawrence Halprin.

Halprin’s vision inspired a revolutionary new approach to environmentally sensitive land-use planning and architecture, but Sea Ranch was also the catalyst for pitched battles over public access to its 10 miles of ragged bluffs and beaches.

Local activists led a fight for public trails to the coast. While their efforts failed locally, they led to a 1972 ballot initiative that created the powerful California Coastal Commission and in 1976, the state Coastal Act to protect the entire shoreline and ensure the public can share in its beauty.

Click through the gallery for a perfect day in and around Sea Ranch. 

From Schnitzel to Tinga: 10 Windsor Restaurants with Global Cuisine

By biteclub
Chick Kabob at Himalayan Restaurant of Windsor, Wednesday April 22, 2015. (Kent Porter / Press Democrat) 2015

Wine Country cuisine may reign supreme in much of Sonoma County, but if you look closely in shopping centers and tucked away spots — and some more obvious locations — there’s a world of food in Windsor.

From Eastern European jagerschnitzel to Himalayan momos, Thai po-pia, mole and New Zealand sausage rolls, tastes from around the globe beckon. Here are ten spots to find incredible food from other lands in your backyard – click through the gallery for photos. 

Tizsa Bistro: Chef Krisztian Karkus isn’t sure if he wants everyone to know how good his wiener schnitzel is. He has a special recipe, sure, and it’s pan-fried in butter and pork lard with fresh lingonberry jam and homemade cucumber salad, but says he doesn’t want to be pigeon-holed as a German chef. So, in addition to the spatzle mac and cheese with wild mushrooms, charbroiled octopus with Hungarian sausage and duck fat potatoes, jagerschintzel with spatzle, bratwurst with braised sauerkraut, and warm marzipan torte he also makes a mean duck leg confit, iceberg wedge salad and roast chicken breast (with spatzle, of course). Old World meets Wine Country in a most delicious way. 8757 Old Redwood Hwy., Windsor, (707) 838-5100, tiszabistro.com.

Ume: Tucked away in Windsor, Ume is the place that sushi connoisseurs talk about between themselves. The sushi is simple, minimal (not blobbed with wasabi or overly seasoned rice) letting the flavor of the fish express itself and sliced generously without being overdone. Specialties include excellent monkfish pate, a great sake list and artistic presentations. Want something a little more approachable? Ume has excellent ramen, tankatsu (panko-breaded pork), teriyaki and American-style rolls with lots of wacky ingredients — if you’re into that. 8710 Old Redwood Highway, Windsor, 838-6700.

Qimura: Homestyle Japanese cuisine that’s comforting for just about anyone. Grandma’s recipes include painstakingly made bowls of steaming ramen (butter miso is a favorite), Nanban chicken (deep fried chicken nuggets in a creamy sweet sour sauce), chicken katsu and hamachi collar. Their sushi rice is made from a secret family recipe. The sleek, modern interior is as clean and bright as their chirashi, a bowl of steamed rice with sashimi. Very authentic flavors with friendly service. 8960 Brooks Road South, 836-1699, qimura.us.

Himalayan Restaurant: Though the cuisines of India and the Himalyas aren’t exactly the same, they share many of the same pungent spices and cooking techniques, which you’ll find at this downtown spot. Crispy vegetable pakora, Himalayan dumplings (momo), biryani (rice with meat and dried fruits) and creamy chicken tikka masala are good introductions for first-timers, but to really get dive into true Indian cuisine, try tandoori meat or vegetables made in a special clay oven. Want to take it to the next step? Himalayan goat curry or lamb badami cooked with almonds and tomato sauce are more adventurous. Flat bread called naan is best perfect for sopping up all the extra sauce. 810 McClelland Dr., Windsor, 838-6746, himalayanrestaurantwindsor.com.

Cocina Mana: In Morales’ kitchen, there are no giant cans of pre-made sauce or piles of packaged tortillas. Everything’s made from scratch as a matter of pride. Here, tacos aren’t mix-and-match discs of tiny tortillas with nibbles of carnitas, but Tacos Giusados — platters of braised meat with beans and Mexican rice with homemade steamed tortillas on the side. In the morning, chilaquiles with red sauce are a warm way to greet the day (or recover from last night’s revelry).Tamales are a specialty here, made with fresh masa and meat, cheese, vegetables or, if you’ve got a sweet tooth, pineapple. 9238 Old Redwood Hwy STE.128, Windsor, 657-7701, cocinamana.com

Tomi Thai: This pocket-sized Thai restaurant is always packed, and for good reason. Rather than overly sweet, sticky dishes, flavors are bright and fresh. You might get a giggle or two ordering Po-Pia, vegan spring rolls filled with mung bean noodles, cabbage and mushrooms or Goong Gaborg, little cigar-shaped shrimp rolls the table will inevitably fight over. You can’t really go wrong on this menu, but their Pad Thai with fried rice noodles and tamarind sauce is excellent. Pumpkin curry in a rich yellow sauce is filled with kobucha squash, bamboo shoots, green beans and basil. You can adjust seasoning to everything from mild to Thai spicy, which we don’t recommend, because unless you’re Thai, you’ll have serious regrets — maybe not now, maybe not tomorrow but soon and for the rest of your day. Wash it all down with a creamy, floral Thai iced tea that, if you haven’t had it before, will become an obsession. 426 Emily Rose Circle, Windsor, 836-1422, tomi-thai.com.

BurtoNZ Bakery: When this Kiwi-run bakery (that’s a New Zealander to the rest of us) opened in 2014, their savory mushroom goat cheese pies, flaky meat pies topped with mashed potatoes, sausage rolls and New Zealand donut were a revelation. Nearly five years later, they’ve only gotten better. We’re especially fond of the raspberry cream Lamingtons and freshly made breads. If you’re on a diet, don’t torture yourself by going. If you’re not, get ready for a pastry feast from the Pastry Wonders from Down Under. 9076 Brooks Road South, Windsor, 687-5455, burtonzbakery.com.

El Gallo Negro: This ain’t your usual taqueria, but a funky mezcaleria featuring juicy cockails with spiked with smoky mezcal and tequila. Owned by the Diaz family, who own restaurants in Windsor and Healdsburg, the menu features their family’s mole, a complicated Oaxacan sauce made with 30 ingredients including special Mexican chocolate, chiles, tomatillos, cinnamon, raisins, garlic, cloves and host of secret ingredients. It’s a rare find because of its ingredient and labor-intensive production, but the family has stuck to time-honored tradition of making it in small batches for their restaurants. Don’t expect white tablecloths, instead, wood tables, $5 bottled beers and cocktails like the Tres Pedros with tequila, hibiscus tea, fresh lime and simple syrup are casual favorites. Daily specials like Margarita Monday, tequila Tuesday and Noche Oaxaquena with handcrafted cockails keep things fresh. 8465 Old Redwood Hwy., Windsor, 838-9511, elgallonegrowindsor.com. Also owned by the Diaz family, Tu Mole Madre featuring multi-course Oaxacan dinners and classes by reservation. Their grand-opening experience happens March 29. tumolemadre.com.

KS Tian Yeun Asian Cuisine: Recently opened in the Town Square, it’s one of the few Chinese spots in Sonoma County offering dim sum. The list is comprehensive and includes bao (steamed buns), shrimp dumplings, shiu mai, marinated tofu and a few more exotic offerings like chicken feet, turnip cake and pork intestines. They’ve also got both traditional and American Chinese food ranging from orange chicken and fried rice to sizzling clay pots filled with rice or vermicelli, veggies and barbecue. 610 McClelland Dr., Windsor, 892-2968, tianyuen.squarespace.com.

Castanedas Marketplace: The El Supremo Breakfast Burrito starts with a layer of griddled Oxacan cheese,followed by meat, eggs, tomatoes, avocado, bacon and a mess of other goodies. If you can eat the whole thing (or even if you can’t) you’ll be good to go for the day. Don’t miss giant chicharrones, fresh paella, tacos and wraps at crowd-friendly prices. 8465 Old Redwood Hwy., Suite 601, Windsor, 838-8820. facebook.com/castanedasmarket

Eat Cake All Night: ‘Art of Dessert’ Event in Santa Rosa Heaven for Sweet Tooths

By biteclub
This stunning entry was donated by Costeaux Bakery. The Annual Art of Dessert Gala, an event to generate funding for programs that educate thousands of local students each year, was held at the Luther Burbank Center for the Arts Saturday April 7th, 2018. (Photos Will Bucquoy/For the Press Democrat)

Let them eat cake! Then let them eat some more cake. Have they eaten enough cake? Celebrating all that is frosted with fondant and perfectly crumbed is the annual Art of Dessert at the Luther Burbank Center on March 30.

This delightfully decadent fundraiser for the Luther Burbank Center’s arts programs features seventeen pastry chefs from the likes of Costeaux French Bakery, Criminal Bakery, Dry Creek Kitchen, Sift Dessert Bar, Oliver’s Markets, Flower and Bloom Cakes, Tomales Bakery, IMA Cake Couture and Your Sweet Expectations competing for a year-long dynasty as the county’s best cake baker.

Winning in the category of 'Best Tasting' was this Myer lemon and blueberry filled creation by Sweet Expectations. The Annual Art of Dessert Gala, an event to generate funding for programs that educate thousands of local students each year, was held at the Luther Burbank Center for the Arts Saturday April 7th, 2018. (Photos Will Bucquoy/For the Press Democrat)
Winning in the category of ‘Best Tasting’ was this Myer lemon and blueberry filled creation by Sweet Expectations. The Annual Art of Dessert Gala, an event to generate funding for programs that educate thousands of local students each year, was held at the Luther Burbank Center for the Arts Saturday April 7th, 2018. (Photos Will Bucquoy/For the Press Democrat)

In a blind tasting, each will submit their best cakes to a panel of celebrity judges (hint: Mark Stark, Charlie Palmer and Dustin Valette and Biteclub) to determine the best in taste, creativity and originality, presentation and overall awesomeness. If you want to sit with a celebrity judge — and really who wouldn’t — you can purchase tickets for their table. It’s for the kids!

The evening whole evening of wine, music and desserts from around the county that’s for one of the best causes in the county. And I’m not just saying that because they’re promising cake. Tickets are $250 per person, details, and tickets at lutherburbankcenter.org.

Sweet T’s Opens in Windsor: Welcome Home

By biteclub
Fried chicken at Sweet T’s in Windsor. Heather Irwin/PD

Last summer, my daughter had a single request for her first dinner back at home from wilderness camping: A juicy mac and cheese hamburger from the Cheesecake Factory.

Don’t judge, because sinking her teeth into the juicy tower of fried macaroni, beef, tomatoes and lettuce became a delicious daydream over the miles of trail. Three weeks of eating mostly summer sausage, peanut butter and tortillas in the drizzle of the Olympic Peninsula can do strange things to a person. Day after day, she came closer to that hamburger. It was a beefy beacon of all that is good in civilization.

Sense memories of food evoke powerful emotions. Smelling cinnamon can transport us to grandma’s kitchen table, eating warm apple pie. Spending 20 years looking for a mozzarella that holds a curd to the stuff you used to get in Brooklyn? Totally reasonable. Finding emotional closure in a piece of fried chicken? At Sweet T’s you can.

One of several Santa Rosa restaurants demolished in the 2017 wildfires, Sweet T’s quickly became a symbol of hope as owners Dennis and Ann Tussey began working on their new Windsor location at the Lakewood Village shopping center. Fans watched as construction commenced, a kitchen was built and Pitmaster George Ah Chin fired up the smoker for the first time.

Now, as friends and Fountaingrove neighbors congregate at the rebuilt restaurant, eating ribs and toasting to rebuilt homes, it’s become a symbol of healing.

Deviled eggs at Sweet T’s in Windsor. Heather Irwin/PD
Deviled eggs at Sweet T’s in Windsor. Heather Irwin/PD

But is the food as good as everyone remembers it?

The ribs sure as sugar are. The cocktails are. The hush puppies and mashed potatoes? Yup. The fried chicken? Wonder-fowl.

Like our memories, not everything can be perfect. Rebuilding takes time, and we’re all still finding our new normal.

As the sweet smell of wood smoke drifts through the parking lot like a siren call, noses sniff the air toward the long-cooked slabs of meat scenting each breeze. It’s a sense memory we’ve long missed enjoying. It’s the smell of Sweet T’s — and so many fire survivors– finally coming home again.

Best Bets
From the Smoker, Ribs: These are the Goldilocks pork ribs we’ve been seeking for years. Yielding without falling apart, smoky without being bitter, soft with a nice chew. You can see the craft in a perfect pink smoke ring around all of Sweet T’s smoked meats. Ribs done absolutely right.

Mixed BBQ plate at Sweet T’s in Windsor. Heather Irwin/PD
Mixed BBQ plate at Sweet T’s in Windsor. Heather Irwin/PD

Smoker Plates: Beef Brisket is so tender, it’s almost hard to get it on a fork. We like asking for a mix of meats, because the pulled chicken and pulled pork are also worth trying.

Memphis BBQ Nachos, $8/$14: House made white cheese sauce is the secret to this tasty mess of tortilla chips with your choice of smoked meat with a barbecue sauce drizzle and pickled jalapeños.
Smoky, creamy, sweet and ridiculously good, they’re a crowd pleaser so order enough for the table.

Crispy Brussels Sprouts, $9: People who don’t like Brussels just haven’t had them cooked right. These roasty, crispy, salty little critters will turn even the biggest sprout haters into converts. Dipped in garlic lemon aioli, they’re even better.

Hush Puppies, $8: Required. Slather with honey butter at will.

Rib Salad, $16: Get the best of both worlds with a meaty pile of veggies. Ribs are pulled from the bone, tossed in vinaigrette and added to tasty mixed greens, spinach, cucumber, avocado and blue cheese.

Gumbo at Sweet T’s in Windsor. Heather Irwin/PD
Gumbo at Sweet T’s in Windsor. Heather Irwin/PD

Cajun Shrimp Gumbo, $19: Louisiana-style with shrimp, smoked chicken, andouille sausage, veggies and rice. It’s far lighter in color and flavor than one might expect from a traditional gumbo, but there’s still plenty of rich, smoky flavor. Though the green pepper is a little forward in this dish, overall, gumbo lovers say it’s the perfect stew.

Shrimp N’ Grits, $21: Everyone has an opinion about grits in the South, and pretty much no one agrees on what makes a perfect batch. Sweet T’s makes’em almost perfect, with plenty of creamy, cheesy, buttery goodness.Though we like ours just a squeak softer, topping them with sweet corn, house-made tasso ham and shrimp gravy makes them down-home-tastic. Southern Fried Chicken, $24: Though it takes about 20 minutes for this dish, the wait is worth it. A thin, crispy shell keeps the chicken moist, steamy and tender.

Like the ribs, this chicken is extra special and extra worth ordering. Served with the world’s best mashed potatoes (with just a hint of garlic), slaw and a biscuit.

Sides: Like any southern restaurant worth its grits, sides are what really make the meal. Sure, they’re mostly a lovely shade of beige — from mashed potatoes to creamed corn, mac ‘n cheese, French fries and potato salad. Skip the rainbow of veggies for a moment (unless you’re hankering for some okra or braised greens) and turn up your comfort-food-o-meter to eleven.

Key Lime Pie, $6: Another signature dish, this creamy, tart pie is a refreshing belly bomber. Take a slice to go. Want to drink your dessert? The Key Lime Pie Martini comes with a graham cracker rim and tastes every bit as tasty.

Key lime pie at Sweet T’s in Windsor. Heather Irwin/PD
Key lime pie at Sweet T’s in Windsor. Heather Irwin/PD

Libations
Red-Headed Mule, $11: A low-proof cocktail that’s dangerously refreshing and addictive. Jardesca Red Aperitif is a quintessentially Californian fortified red wine mixed with botanicals like cardamom, ginger and tangerine. Mixed with ginger, lemon and soda it’s a refreshing, lightly alcoholic sipper.

Texas Margarita, $13: It’s a margarita on the rocks with a pop of cayenne.

George Peach Martini, $13: The only fruit martini that I’d actually drink without shame. Made with peach vodka, peach puree and sparkling wine, it’s like drinking a fresh peach instead of eating a bag of peach-flavored candy.

Sweet T’s is at 9098 Brooks Road S, Windsor, 707-687-5185, sweettssouthern.com. Open daily from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Barley and Bine: Secret Windsor Taproom

By biteclub

We love hidden restaurant gems that take a little work to find. This one takes a whole lot of work to find, but it’s well worth the screaming match with your GPS. The well-tucked away Barley and Bine is the newest addition to Windsor’s Artisan Alley — a collection of artisan wine, spirit and cider producers that are a boozy interjection among commercial tile makers, auto body shops and the Windsor Gymnastics Center.

Almost invisible behind beefy pickup trucks and stacked harvest bins, Barley and Bine’s entrance is a completely unimpressive door surrounded by concrete bricks and aluminum siding. Don’t be put off, because inside you’ll find a charming spot to grab a table or a seat at the bar and peruse the 32 beers, cider and kombucha on tap. I can pretty much guarantee there will be at least three bearded guys sitting at the tap room at any given moment doing the same thing you are.

As reticent beer drinkers, we obviously reach first for the food menu. Which is a solid idea, because you’ll need a Tot-Tine as a solid base for the forthcoming suds. Yes, Tot-tine—the lovechild of Ore-Idea Tater Tots and Canadian poutine (brown gravy, cheese curds, and fries), this hot mess of deliciousness isn’t exactly a looker, but bacon, melty mozzarella, green onions with gravy soaked tater tots has loads of personality. I dare you not to fall a little in love with them.

The small kitchen also serves up simple flatbread pizzas, like the Hawaiian-inspired Hula and a tasty prosciutto and fig version. There’s simpler fare for kids — and yes, kids are welcome here with a little corner filled with toys and a chalkboard to keep them occupied while you kick back a couple brews.

Several computer screens above the bar show the dizzying selections, but if you’re overwhelmed, just ask the bartender for a little guidance. As a reticent beer drinker, we were thrilled to try 5oz. pours of Russian River’s Supplication (a sour brown ale aged in pinot noir barrels with sour cherries) and a raspberry lambic beer. I almost liked a couple of IPAs, but ti’s still a taste I’m acquiring.

Take a minute to check out their neighbors, Tilted Shed Ciderworks, Sonoma Brothers Distilling and Two Shepherds and Colagrossi Wines, most of whose products you can also find in the taproom.

If you get lost, just follow the bearded guys who look thirsty.

Open 11a.m. to 10pm. Sunday, Monday, Wednesday and Thursday. 11a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday. Closed Tuesdays. 7765 Bell Road, Windsor, 707-657-7774, barleybinebeercafe.com.