Could Climate Change Mean an End to Cabernet in Napa Valley? This Winemaker Thinks So

Cabernet Sauvignon is king in Napa Valley. 51 percent of the area’s 46,000 acres of wine grapes are devoted to the varietal. Chardonnay grapes, which come in on number two, occupy just over 6000 acres, and while more than 30 other wine grape varieties are grown here, none of them come with the kind of bragging rights that the coveted “cab” does. 

But as secure as the reign of Cabernet Sauvignon may seem, some think we shouldn’t take it for granted.

“I think you’d be foolish to believe Napa Valley is going to look exactly like this 30 years from now. I don’t think Sonoma is going to look like Sonoma 30 years from now,” says Dan Petroski, winemaker at Larkmead Vineyards in Calistoga.

Petroski, along with other Napa Valley winemakers, thinks climate change  — rising temperatures, droughts, extreme weather — might dramatically alter the local winegrowing landscape. To prepare for such a scenario, he is now looking at grapes from warmer regions around the world and thinking about how they might be implemented in Napa Valley 20 to 30 years from now.

To get a better idea, he’s about to start experimenting with some of these warmer-climate grapes in Larkmead’s vineyards. The Calistoga winery is currently dedicating three acres out of their 110-acre estate to a “viticultural research block.” The experimental vineyard will initially be planted with seven red grape varieties and one white.

“My number one objective for these seven red grape varieties is that they have the ability to blend well with Cabernet, as a supporting actor until Cabernet can’t be used anymore,” says Petroski. “We’re trying to get a head start on this whole process. I don’t want 2040 to roll around and we’re sitting on our heels going ‘alright, what are we going to plant now, when it’s too hot for Cabernet?’”

The three-acre plot will be planted in the late spring or early summer of 2020 with Chenin Blanc, Petite Sirah and Zinfandel, alongside varieties such as Aglianico, Tempranillo, Touriga Nacional, Charbono and Syrah.

But planting, growing, harvesting, aging, bottling, and finally seeing what customers think of the wines will take time.

Expected to last 21 years, the project will be divided into three phases — the upcoming planting is part of the first phase. Every seven years, Petroski hopes to find one or two grape varieties that will do well at the winery.

Founded in 1895, Larkmead will celebrate its 125th anniversary in 2020. This isn’t the first time the winery has been involved in viticultural research. In the 1940s, a Cabernet Sauvignon clone commonly known as the “Oakville selection” was developed here by UC Davis viticulturist Dr. Harold Olmo.

A newly installed walkway leads the way to the winery’s research block. It’s a path Petroski hopes will encourage conversations with visitors about the future.

“It’s hard to tell people Cabernet is going to die. It’s hard to say it’s over because it’s still our lifeblood. It’s the beating heart of what we do and we do it really well,” says Petroski. “Some of the best wines in the world are made here in the Napa Valley, so it’s hard to have that conversation. But I think the other side of that conversation is that we’re forward-thinking. We are evaluating, we’re looking to the future.”

10 Best Things to Do in Napa

From outstanding wineries and restaurants to inns surrounded by vineyards, Napa Valley is a dream destination for those in search of good food, good wine and a good time. The city of Napa, located in the southern end of the valley, has undergone a transformation in recent years, attracting celebrity chefs like Charlie Palmer, a slew of colorful tasting rooms that stay open late as well as interesting art projects. Click through the gallery to discover how to spend 24 perfect hours in Napa.

Lingering Stress After the Fires? This Sonoma-Made App Might Help

Thick smoke from the Kincade fire obscures the setting sun as seen from the Middletown side of the Mayacamas Mountains, Friday, Oct. 25, 2019. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)

To recover from a wildfire takes time and involves demanding tasks for those affected: calls to insurance companies, clean up of debris, finding a new place to live, rebuilding a home, and resuming regular routines with work or studies, among many other things.

One task that often fails to make the long list of things to do, however, is taking care of your mental health. But according to experts on trauma and post-traumatic stress disorder (PTSD) this is an important aspect of wildfire recovery.

Healdsburg resident Dr. Adrienne Heinz, a clinical and research psychologist specializing in trauma and PTSD, says surveys indicate that one-quarter of wildfire survivors develop PTSD symptoms while one-third experience depression and anxiety. Left untreated, these conditions can have a detrimental effect on a person’s social life and wellbeing.

“What we know from [studying] people post 9/11 and other disasters is that, if you don’t give folks the resources they need to bounce back, the recovery can be fraught with struggles: loss of relationships and jobs, substance abuse disorders and mental health struggles … the list goes on,” she says.

Heinz is part of a team that developed mental health resources for local residents following the 2017 North Bay fires, including the mobile app Sonoma Rises. Intended for users ages “13 to 113,” it gives access to a variety of treatment options to suit different preferences and needs, including trauma-informed yoga, self-help tools such as breathing techniques and meditation, as well as individual and group therapy.

“We felt like an app was the perfect medium because people are on their phones all the time anyway,” Heinz explains, adding that those reluctant to see a therapist in person (therapy is the recommended treatment for PTSD) might be more inclined to interact with mental health professionals through an app.

In the wake of last year’s Kincade fire, the amount of Sonoma Rises users has increased. Many lost homes, part of their school, or were otherwise displaced by the October 2017 fires and have reported high levels of anxiety, including feeling “keyed up” and “re-triggered,” following this recent event.

Heinz’s co-researcher, psychologist Dr. Shannon Wiltsey-Stirman, explains that previous trauma makes a person more susceptible to develop post-traumatic stress disorder. While many wildfire survivors will initially experience symptoms such as mentally replaying the trauma, avoiding situations that recall an aspect of the event, becoming irritable or hypervigilant about safety, lingering symptoms may be a sign that a person is developing PTSD.

Lack of timely and adequate care following a traumatic experience like a wildfire can also increase the risk of developing PTSD.

Petaluma therapist Marty Schwebel, who works as a volunteer chaplain for the Petaluma Police Department, says he believes we don’t have proper rituals in our society to process grief, and that he has noticed many delay getting treatment until the “adrenaline” of recovery tasks wear off.

Schwebel believes trauma-informed yoga can be helpful. “The body keeps the score,” he says, citing the title of the 2014 bestselling book by Boston-based psychiatrist Bessel Van der Kolk.

Van der Kolk’s main premise in his book is that trauma is remembered in the body — it physically “reshapes both body and brain — and that treatments, like yoga, can help people who’ve experienced trauma by bringing more awareness to their bodies, thoughts and emotions.

Research supports Van der Kolk’s theory: Using a combination of traditional therapy techniques and alternative treatments such as EMDR (Eye Movement Desensitization and Reprocessing) and yoga can help alleviate stress and anxiety induced by traumatic events.

By increasing accesses to these kinds of evidence-based treatments, as well as other no-cost mental health services, Heinz and the team behind the Sonoma Rises app hope they will be able to continue provide support to those affected by wildfires in Sonoma County and beyond (the team is keeping their work “open access” so that other communities can use and customize the app).

“If this is to be our new normal,” says Heinz, “we have to prioritize our mental well-being. Without that other things in life start to erode.”

Download the Sonoma Rises app for iPhone here and for android here. Visit mysonomastrong.com for more information and support. More free mental health resources available here

Where to Try 2020’s Biggest Food and Drink Trends in Sonoma County

What will we be eating in 2020? Food fanatics can’t help but love this time of year when we prognosticate exactly what trends may be coming (and going) in the next 12 months.

As usual, it’s a mixed bag of conflicting ideas:

Nuts are the new dairy, but alternative nut butters are raging.

Middle Eastern foods are on the rise, but fried chicken is still big.

You’ll be puckering up with lots of sour flavors, but sweet desserts are upping their game with “adult” versions of ice cream sundaes.

The good news is that 2020 will bring increased attention to issues like climate change, zero waste, livable wages in the hospitality industry, healthy-eating alternatives and a move away from old-school processed foods.

Click through the gallery for some of our favorite upcoming trends you’ll be seeing here in Sonoma County.

Fried Chicken With A Side Of History at Pat’s International in Guerneville

Korean fried chicken sandwich at Pat’s International in Guerneville. Heather Irwin/PD
Korean fried chicken sandwich at Pat’s International in Guerneville. Heather Irwin/PD

For nearly 80 years, Pat’s Cafe quietly persisted in downtown Guerneville. With a focus on breakfast and lunch, meals were hearty workaday diner standards with family-friendly prices and fisherman-friendly hours. And for three generations under the ownership of the same family, not much changed.

Time meandered by like the nearby Russian River as salmon runs came and went. Floods came and went. Lazy Bear weekends, summer resort-goers and Sisters of Perpetual Indulgence came and went.

Then came David Blomster and his Korean Fried Crack (aka Korean Fried Chicken) and everything changed.

Huevos Rancheros at Pat’s International in Guerneville. Heather Irwin/PD
Huevos Rancheros at Pat’s International in Guerneville. Heather Irwin/PD

Over the last six years, Blomster was behind an evening pop-up at Pat’s that featured Asian-inspired dishes with California flair. It’s messy, saucy, cram-it-in-your-face kind of food, with his sweet-savory fried chicken as the star.
Now, Blomster is heading the whole Pat’s show, taking ownership of the restaurant, removing the old bar, creating a new menu and changing the name to Pat’s International to better reflect the gentle mash-up of cuisines he’s featuring.

You can sit at the retro-cool counter with round diner seats or pad into the dining room with wall-to-wall green carpeting and wooden picnic tables. Napkins, silverware, and jam are already on the table.

Though you can certainly stumble into Pat’s with blinders on, it’s the journey into the town’s history and Blomster’s quirky design sensibility that’s a huge part of the appeal.

Interior of Pat's International. Photo: Caitlin McCaffrey
Interior of Pat’s International. Photo: Caitlin McCaffrey

To take anything at Pat’s at face value is to miss everything. Every surface tells a story, from the mottled “pecky cypress” wood on the walls to the geometric plastic ceiling tiles that are actually an art installation by artist Jim Isermann to a meticulously detailed 1950s Russian River map made by Bill Schaadt, considered one of the world’s greatest fly fishermen.

Everything at Pat’s comes with a side of history. Or fried chicken. Your choice.

Best Bets
The KFC Sandwich, $10: The classic fried chicken sando comes with slightly spicy sweet and savory sauce, vanilla slaw, aioli, and a brioche bun. Skip the chicken and get a fried KFT, made with tofu.

Mac and Crack, $17.50: You can go with the plain mac, made with cheddar, Gruyere and Parmesan cheese, but why not sex it up a little and throw some Korean Fried Chicken on top? If you can eat the whole bowl, I salute you and your powerful appetite.

Ham and eggs Benedict with Mornay sauce at Pat’s International in Guerneville. Heather Irwin/PD
Ham and eggs Benedict with Mornay sauce at Pat’s International in Guerneville. Heather Irwin/PD

Ham Benedict, $15: Why hasn’t everyone thought to make eggs benny with cheesy Mornay sauce instead of Hollandaise? Details. Truly a triumph of yum.

Huevos Rancheros, $14: The classic made with layers of crispy tortilla, black beans, a thick disc of scrambled eggs, salsa and sour cream.

Chicken Pozole, $16: A heaping helping of mild green chili and shredded chicken soup with hominy. Guaranteed to cure your winter blues.

Opening day at Pat's Cafe in Guerneville in 1940. Sonoma County Library Digital Collections
Opening day at Pat’s Cafe in Guerneville in 1940. Sonoma County Library Digital Collections

Also check out: Tofu scramble, biscuits and gravy, hot cakes and syrup, a grass-fed burger, a vegan soba noodle bowl, “Catch of the Day” fish and chips or the Reuben.

Currently serving breakfast and lunch daily from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Dinner will return in the spring. 16236 Main St., Guerneville, 707-604-4007, patsinternational.com.

The Most-Read Sonoma Magazine Stories of 2019

Acme Burger at Acme Burger in Cotati. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)

When we review the readership of our articles, one thing becomes apparent: our readers like to eat and drink. From the best burgers in Sonoma County to favorite kid-friendly wineries, food and wine continue to be incredibly popular topics. But the most-read article of the year had nothing to do with dining. Click through the above gallery to see our top stories of 2019.

Find a Portal to New York City at Santa Rosa Art Exhibit

How do you capture the essence of a multi-faceted place like New York?

Photographer Helen Levitt took her camera to the city’s poorer neighborhoods. In one of her best-known photographs, shot in 1945, four East Harlem girls watch soap bubbles drift across a desolate street. It’s a fleeting moment. While the ephemeral bubbles float, there is the everlasting hope and magic of New York, the city where everything seems possible.

Documentary filmmaker D.A. Pennebaker, in his 1953 “Daybreak Express,” revealed mid-century Manhattan through a rush of images from a Third Avenue train. Propelled by the rhythm of Duke Ellington’s music, Pennebaker’s six minute short explores the large, unfathomable city by going small, capturing its everyday details and rapidly-passing scenes to find authenticity and beauty.

In this century, artists continue their quest to capture the pulse of New York.

Some of the most creative renderings of the city’s people and pockets are the original artworks — satirical, poignant and whimsical — on the cover of its iconic publication, The New Yorker, first published in 1925.

To attain the cover of The New Yorker is a mighty achievement for an illustrator and one that Marcellus Hall, a New York resident for 25 years, has accomplished five times. His work also has appeared in The Wall Street Journal, The Atlantic and Time. A selection of his artwork — sketches, drawings and watercolors — is currently being shown and sold at Sonoma Academy’s art gallery in Santa Rosa (Jan. 7 – Jan. 30).

Hall’s illustrations, like Levitt’s bubbles and Pennebaker’s “Daybreak Express,” offer glimpses of ordinary people going about their lives in New York City: crowds at a park on a summer’s day, young people sipping wine at an art gallery, ice skaters at Rockefeller Center, a homeless couple asleep on the street. His subjects, diverse as the city itself, share one thing: they hold their smartphones tight.

While cellphones have changed the ways in which people interact in public since the days of Levitt and Pennebaker (American photographer Joel Meyerowitz said they “killed the sexiness of the street”), Hall continues to be drawn to the more human aspects of the urban experience.

“I think the flux of the personal and universal that exists in cities is what attracts me,” the illustrator said. “Each person embodies a thousand stories. Sometimes I marvel at the millions of faces in New York and I’m desperate to chronicle or preserve them on paper.”

It’s no coincidence then that Hall’s exhibition at Sonoma Academy feels like a collection of vignettes — if not a thousand or a million, then enough to transport you across the continent.

Arrayed on the gallery’s walls, black and white sketches depict everyday scenes on street corners and subways, in restaurants, parks and pedestrian underpasses. Two recent New Yorker covers show a modern Lower East Side and a humorous take on the urban fascination with bicycles. A series of watercolors conjure artistic renderings of Bill Cunningham’s fashion photography.

On a table in the gallery, you’ll find still another portal to New York: a copy of Hall’s recently published graphic novel “Kaleidoscope City.”

“I wanted to get down on paper something poetic that might capture the beauty and pace of my New York experience,” Hall said about his book. “I’ve never felt comfortable with the panel structure of comics, so I employed the Japanese concept of yohaku no bi (the aesthetics of empty space).”

By using a poetically-concise prose style, combined with etching-like minimalist illustrations, “Kaleidoscope City” takes the reader on a journey through the metropolis. The graphic novel’s protagonist, a young artist, wanders the streets of New York carrying only a broken heart and a sketchbook. He finds inspiration in unexpected places and tells his story through a series of postcards depicting “far-flung neighborhoods … fleeting glimpses of a mysterious woman.”

An excerpt reads, “When I first moved to the city I was intoxicated with possibility … the blank page, the unseen future, the unwritten chapters and the endless possibility of chance encounters that presented itself in the shifting river of faces on every street corner. For years, the desire to get it all down on paper nagged at me, this life and all the serendipitous, beautiful things about it … The Fourth of July fireworks reflecting on the river … The horse head on Market Street … That beautiful Friday night feeling. That mix of hopefulness and expectation that comes when you’re rushing off to somewhere. The streets are electric with energy and your heart is beating with the promise of a perfect night … and romance.”

Writer E.B. White likened New York to a poem “whose magic is comprehensible to millions but whose full meaning will always remain elusive.”

While it may be impossible to capture the essence of a city whose only fixed quality is its constant metamorphosis, the exhibition at Sonoma Academy shows that sometimes it takes only an image, or a short sequence of them, to transport the viewer through time and space to the heart of New York City.

Marcellus Hall at Sonoma Academy, Jan. 7-30, 2020, Mon – Fri, 8 a.m. – 4 p.m., 2500 Farmers Ln, Santa Rosa. Free (sign in at the school reception). Show curated by Hillary Younglove. Follow Marcellus Hall on Instagram, @marcellus_hall

Upcoming Shows at Sonoma Academy

Feb 1-Feb 27: Susan Stover, susanstover.com.
Feb 28-March 29: Hayley Samantha Jensen, hayleysamanthajensen.com.
May/June: Hillary Younglove: “Passages.” hillaryyounglove.com.

sonomaacademy.org

5 New Sonoma County Stores We’re Excited About

New year, new you, and new stores! As much as we hate saying goodbye to some of our favorite businesses that close their doors to the retail scene, we love meeting the new kids on the block and seeing the infusion of style they bring. Here are just a few businesses that have recently set up shop in Sonoma County—click through the above gallery for details.

Sample the Best of Healdsburg at New Food and Wine Event

High tea in the dining room at Jordan Winery // Photo by Kim Carroll

2020 in Sonoma County has a lot in store, including a great new way to sample the best of Healdsburg.

During the last weekend of January, the recently launched Tastemaker Weekend will introduce participants to Healdsburg’s food, wine and artisan scene through a variety of activities, such as hunting for garden treasures with flower farmers and blending wine with renowned winemakers.

The new event is part of an effort to bring more visitors to the northern Sonoma County town in the wake of October’s Kincade fire. Though the fire largely spared Healdsburg, downtown businesses have continued to suffer as less visitors come to the area.

“The message we want to get out there is that we’re open for business,” said Holly Fox, chair of the Healdsburg Tourism Improvement District, the organization sponsoring the event. “What makes [our town] special are all the incredible people who live and work here, and our first ever Tastemaker Weekend gives you the chance to get to know these talented makers and experience their crafts firsthand.”

As Fox suggests, the weekend features one-of-a-kind, hands-on experiences with some of the best and brightest artisans in the city. Among them: A flower-foraging and design class with Carlisle Degischer and her team at Dragonfly Floral; a pastry class with Karah Williams, pastry chef at Costeaux French Bakery; high tea at Jordan Vineyard & Winery with Executive Chef Todd Knoll; a cooking class with Oaxacan chef Mateo Granados; a wine-blending workshop with Lambert Bridge Winemaker Jennifer Higgins; and a distillery and mixology class with Jason Jorgenson, co-founder and head distiller of Alley 6. (Tickets to each experience are sold separately.)

Arrangement by Dragonfly Floral in Healdsburg. (Courtesy photo)
Arrangement by Dragonfly Floral in Healdsburg. (Courtesy photo)

Winemaker Jennifer Higgins is excited to share the wonders of wine-blending with those who previously may only have enjoyed tasting wine.

“Blending is where the artistic side of winemaking comes out…we have this huge blank canvass and much like a painter with a brush stroke, we are creating something beautiful with each blending trial,” she said. “Giving our customers the opportunity to blend allows them to experience first-hand just how much effort and energy go into producing our wines. It’s truly a behind-the-scenes look. I think it will give folks a whole new appreciation for what we do.”

Other Tastemaker Weekend events include a wine cave dinner with Shelly Rafanelli Fehlman, the winemaker at A. Rafanelli Winery; a cooking class with four other local winemakers at Relish Culinary Adventures; a cave tour and bottle-sabering experience at Breathless Wines; a watercolor-painting class with two local artists; and a wild-mushroom foraging excursion.

The weekend itinerary also features a free activity — a trail run to the top of Fitch Mountain, led by Skip Brand, owner of Healdsburg Running Company — and ticket holders can enjoy deep discounts on lodging: 50 percent off a second night at most local inns and many Healdsburg-area hotels, including the new Harmon Guest House, Hotel Trio, Duchamp Hotel, and the Best Western Dry Creek Inn. Considering that this is the off-season in Wine Country, base rates at most properties are already lower than usual, and so the discount amounts to a pretty sweet deal.

Mike Brennan, director of sales at Mill District, a mixed-use real-estate development at the south end of town, says the Tastemaker Weekend captures the very best of what Healdsburg is all about.

“Living and working in Healdsburg, we are fortunate to sample the fruits of [these artisans’] labor on a daily basis,” he said. With this event, he added, “visitors can experience it, too.”

stayhealdsburg.com/tastemaker-weekend

Greener New Year: 9 Eco-Friendly Products from Local Stores

If the approaching new year is making you feel optimistic about improving things, that’s good because the world could use more of that. Making greener, more sustainable shopping choices is a great place to start. From products made locally with upcycled or natural materials to items made with gentle fabrication processes, here are a few things that will help make a difference. Click through the above gallery for details.