Blue Ridge Kitchen will soon be opening in the former Zazu space in the Barlow.
Describing the menu as “California comfort food with a Southern drawl,” General Manager Eric Zahra (Real Restaurants group, Piatti) heads up an all-star cast that includes Virginia native Jared Rogers (Guesthouse, Picco) as consulting chef and Matt D’Ambrosi (recently of Spoonbar, Harmon Guesthouse and Pizzando). The restaurant is undergoing a makeover, which includes a showpiece J&R live fire grill but maintains the open, airy vibe of the space.
Barlow founder Barney Aldridge is currently a minority partner in the project and said he brought together the team to create a friendly, seven-day-a-week, “heart of the community” destination like Marin’s iconic Buckeye Roadhouse or Napa’s Rutherford Grill.
“I want it to be one of those timeless gathering places,” Aldridge said.
Blue Ridge Kitchen is hoping to open — with a full liquor license — in the next several weeks. Though the menu is still evolving, it currently includes Southern standards like fried green tomatoes, shrimp po’ boys, fried chicken platters, collard greens, pecan pie, shrimp and grits and smoked ribs, but also veers to NorCal faves like avocado toast (with crispy ham), smoked Mt. Lassen trout salad, roasted cauliflower steak and ahi tuna tartare. If you’re craving some meaty meats, try a tomahawk steak, rigatoni sugo with braised pork cheek or hardwood smoked prime rib. A little something for everyone.
Four months into the pandemic, the word “essential” no longer seems right to describe the vital workforce holding us together. So instead, let’s call it like it really is: “so indispensable it can be a matter of life and death.”
When the world came to a standstill, these men and women braced themselves and began working twice as hard. What are often seen as thankless, back-breaking jobs – cleaning hospital rooms, fixing our plumbing, delivering packages – deserve our respect more than ever. Take a moment to look into their eyes and listen to their stories. These workers are the backbone not just of Sonoma but of America itself. Without them, we would be lost, and the toll of the outbreak would loom far larger.
Rosa Contreras in Santa Rosa, California on May 19, 2020. (Erik Castro)
When Rosa Contreras applied for a job cleaning Kaiser Permanente hospital room 19 years ago, “compassion” wasn’t listed in the job description. But it didn’t take long for her to realize the job includes equal doses of caring and sanitation.
One morning during the pandemic, a patient was having a hard time breathing, so Contreras gave her a sentimental stone with the word “Breathe” etched onto it. Later in the day, a nurse asked, “Did you give her that stone? She’s been holding it in her hand the whole day. She was crying and said you told her, ‘Don’t forget to breathe.’”
“I feel more safe in the hospital than I do outside.”
Helping others is something Contreras learned growing up in Cotija, Mexico, as one of 12 children. Her mother watched over the family while her father worked the fields as a campesino.
“My parents told us, if you see someone who needs help, don’t think twice, just help,” remembers Contreras, 56, who lives in Windsor with her husband and three children. Her husband is concerned she might contract the coronavirus. “But I told him, don’t worry. We have trained for this. I feel more safe in the hospital than I do outside.”
Sebastian Juarez in Sonoma, California on May 14, 2020. (Erik Castro)
When he was a kid, Sebastian Juarez wanted to be a NASA engineer. “This is not the job I had in mind, but those are the cards I got dealt early, so I had to sustain the family, the housing, the food, the kids.” His mechanical knowledge of how things work comes in handy as a service technician for Garton Tractor, where he fixes farm equipment of all sizes for clients at vineyards, farms, and construction sites.
“The grapes don’t know there’s a pandemic going on.”
“During this time, people are just thankful we’re still coming out and keeping them going,” says Juarez, who is in his late 50s and lives alone in Santa Rosa. His parents were farmworkers in Mexico and moved the family to the United States when he was 12. They worked the vineyards and picked grapes every harvest, and now he makes sure all the machinery keeps moving in many of the same vineyards. “The wineries are relying on us when things break down, because the grapes don’t know there’s a pandemic going on.”
Jerry Tolman at the UPS Customer Center in Santa Rosa, California, May 27, 2020. (Erik Castro)
“You wake up one day, and it’s like, ‘What happened here?’” says Jerry Tolman, who has never felt such an “eerie feeling of driving empty roads” in his 29 years of delivering packages for UPS.
For the past decade, his rural route has taken him through Dry Creek Valley, where he delivers packages to residents and picks up shipments from wineries. Since the Covid-19 outbreak, he’s worked 10-12 hours a day. One winery owner told him, “You’re right below the doctors and the nurses. If it wasn’t for you guys picking up our wine and shipping it for us, we’d be dead in the water.”
Tolman grew up in Boonville and played basketball at SRJC and Sonoma State. His
goal was to coach junior high sports, but, he says, after getting a job with UPS right out of college, “I liked the steady paycheck and I liked that you’re your own boss. You’re out there by yourself all day long.” At 55, one year away from retirement, Tolman is more grateful than ever for the bond he’s established with customers over the years. “We’re getting a lot of love out there — a lot of love and a lot of support.”
Veronica Santiago Flores in Sonoma, California on May 15, 2020. (Erik Castro)
Starting her vineyard job at 5:30 a.m. six days a week, Veronica Santiago Flores takes pride in nurturing vines. But it’s not what she envisions for her 3-year-old son Caleb, who stays with a babysitter while she works. “I do not want him to work in the vineyard under the hot sun. I want him to go to school and maybe become a doctor or a dentist.
When Covid-19 hit in March, “I thanked God I still had a job and could support my son,” she says. Flores and her boyfriend, Jose Luis, work for Palo Alto Vineyard Management. In the fields, they maintain distances of six feet or more and wear masks and gloves.
“I thanked God I still had a job and could support my son.”
As a child growing up in Acapulco, she dreamed of one day becoming a nurse, “but it was too expensive to go to school for that.” After her family was threatened by a drug cartel and forced to relocate, she escaped to the United States in 2017. “I had hoped to go to school this year to learn English and find another job,” she says. “But now, I don’t know when that will happen.”
Alex Johnson in Santa Rosa, California. May 26, 2020. (Erik Castro)
“Honestly, I was scared,” says plumber Alex Johnson, remembering when businesses started shutting down in mid-March. “I’ve got two little kids and a wife, and the last thing I want to do is somehow catch this thing and bring it home to my family.”
But plumbing involves going into strangers’ homes, often several in a day, and that’s what he’s continued to do. He and his wife have had conversations about the number of infections in the area. “What’s the limit where I decide that’s enough, and I stay home?” he asks. In addition to wearing a mask and gloves, Johnson undresses in the garage when he comes home from work, putting his clothes in a designated hamper and showering before he touches anyone.
“What’s the limit where I decide that’s enough, and I stay home?”
Johnson specializes in hydronic radiant heating systems, most recently with Ongaro & Sons. “It’s one of those things where this isn’t what I wanted to do, but I’m really good at it. And, to me, this is art. It’s a passion, just like music,” says Johnson, 42, who also plays bass in local band Dr!ven, which has opened for original Beatles drummer Pete Best. “Even though it can look like a monster made out of all these pipes — it’s art.”
Cameron Duhaime, 30, at Bud’s Custom Meats in Penngrove, California on May 18, 2020. (Erik Castro)
As a butcher for Bud’s Custom Meats, Cameron Duhaime travels to farms around the Bay Area slaughtering cows, sheep, pigs, and goats. These days, he’s sharpening his knives more than ever before. “We are just slammed,” says Duhaime, 30, who lives in Cotati and also cuts meat at Bud’s Penngrove store. “It’s been super-busy in the shop, like three times the retail volume that we’re used to.” He attributes the spike in demand to more people cooking at home, with some learning to cook new cuts like elk chops or rack of lamb. “It seems like everybody’s a professional home chef now.” And during times like this, he says, there’s “a sense of security in having a quarter of beef in the freezer.”
Raised in Colorado, Duhaime farmed vegetables and later learned butchery on a farm in upstate New York. Since moving to Sonoma County two years ago, he has started working six to seven days a week, spending about half the time on the road and the other half in the shop. “I just feel grateful and really lucky that it just so happens the work I do is essential.”
“There’s a sense of security in having a quarter of beef in the freezer.”
Maria Lemons at Safeway in Santa Rosa, California, May 29, 2020. (Erik Castro)
“I miss seeing people’s faces,” says Safeway cashier Maria Lemons. “With a mask on, people can’t really see that I’m smiling, and I can’t see their expression. It’s hard to read people now.” A single mother raising three teenagers, Lemons has worked the last 15 years as a cashier, stocker, and customer service rep at the Safeway on West College Avenue in Santa Rosa. The beginning of the pandemic “was a bit scary,” she says. “But I continued working because that’s how I feed my family, and I was thankful I didn’t lose my job.”
Months later, she feels like she’s “coping better,” able to deal with a wide range of customers, some who want everything wiped down and others who don’t seem to understand physical distancing. Growing up “more of a tomboy kinda girl” in Nicaragua, Lemons, 40, played baseball, basketball, and volleyball before migrating to the United States when she was 19. She looks forward to a day when she doesn’t have to cover her smile anymore. “Once you get off work, you just want to get rid of that mask and just breathe fresh air.”
David Stafford at the Material Recovery Facility in Santa Rosa, California on May 20, 2020. (Erik Castro)
Every morning, David Stafford starts his shift at 3:30 a.m. in Railroad Square, maneuvering a massive front-loading garbage truck through the streets long before most of us are awake.
“The other day, there was this young woman wearing no shoes, riding her bicycle back and forth, following me,” says Stafford, 45, who grew up in Hayward and lives with his wife and parents in Santa Rosa. “Finally, she rides her bicycle straight towards me and stops and says, ‘I don’t know exactly what I’m trying to say, but I just wanted to say, ‘Thank you for what you do,’ and she rides off.”
“It makes you realize maybe this job is important.”
With everything he’s seen during his 21 years on the job — people asleep in alleys and jumping out of dumpsters — Stafford could only shake his head. “I don’t really like the spotlight,” he says. “But it’s kinda nice to hear someone say, ‘Thank you’ in times like this. It makes you realize maybe this job is important.”
Maraia Maffy at Brookdale Paulin Creek senior assisted living center in Santa Rosa, California on June 6, 2020. (Erik Castro)
“I have never shaved a beard in my life,” says caregiver Maraia Ledua Maffy. “But since this pandemic started, I’ve learned to shave and to cut a man’s hair, too.” For the past year, Maffy has been caring for a Santa Rosa couple in their 80s. Since the outbreak, her clients haven’t left their quarters at the Brookdale Paulin Creek assisted living facility.
“They are away from their family, and I am away from my family — both my kids at home and my family in Fiji — and so our bond has only grown stronger over the past few months,” says Maffy, 46. Working for North Bay Home Care, she is part of a vital local community of Fijian caregivers. “In Fiji, I think we learn to care for people at an early age because we live with our grandparents and often cousins and other relatives.”
“They are away from their family, and I am away from my family.”
Since the outbreak, her shifts have gone from 8 to 12 hours. It’s taken a toll at home, where her 21-year-old son watches her two younger boys, 7 and 10, while her husband serves a prison sentence. “This time has taught me to be grateful for every little thing we have. Sometimes we just have to stand still and be at peace and just love each other more and take care of each other.”
We’ve been a little jealous of the Wicked Slush cocktails we’ve been hearing about in Petaluma, Healdsburg and Sonoma, but now they’re coming to Epicenter in Santa Rosa.
The old Starbucks is gone and the activity center at Coffey and Piner has brought in Wicked Slush and Bella Rosa Coffee to keep things local, calling it Piner and Coffey to Go, natch. In case you were wondering, Epicenter is open for business, and you can bowl, do trivia on the patio, jump and game (socially distant) if you’re in need of some family fun.
There’s nothing like a warm pretzel with cheese — except maybe a warm cheese pretzel with cheese.
Professional baker Clare Hulme of Wooden Petal is making small-batch sea salt, cheese and “everything” pretzels from her commercial kitchen with cheese dip and mustard for pickup or delivery throughout much of the county.
Pretzels from Wooden Petal in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD
These soft little nuggets are closer to a roll than a tooth-breaking hard pretzel, with a yeasty, homemade flavor that’s hard to resist. Plus, no bitter baking soda (blech)! They’re just $25 for a fat box of 15 with two dips (we’d have paid extra for more cheese, cause we ate it all by pretzel three).
Hot or cold, our whole family gave these two cheese-covered thumbs up. On Wednesday and Thursday, Hulme is also doing jumbo cinnamon pretzels with icing. Perfect for a grad gift or the Father’s Day present you forgot.
Eating has become very primal for me lately, but that doesn’t mean I’m starting some ridiculous caveman-inspired diet. Instead, I’m following my deepest intuition about what I’m craving, what I’m desperately yearning for and dreaming about that drives me to venture forth into the world and snatch a takeout bag to bring home to my lair.
Most recently that was an egg salad sandwich I crammed into my face in a parking lot. I’d dreamed about it for a week. It lived up to the hype.
In uncertain times, I think we’ve all become a little more focused on things that feed our souls rather than just our bellies. To that end, you’d be amazed what a little outdoor patio time (socially distanced, of course), a glass or wine, a beautiful banh mi or a perfect ceviche can do to make life in quarantine a whole lot less dismal.
This week, I’m highlighting three great spots, from affordable to luxe, that I think will bring a smile to your face, even if it’s hidden behind a mask.
La Plaza
It’s a rare Mexican restaurant that really impresses me, but this little mom-and-pop spot on Santa Rosa Avenue is worth the trip. Though I’ve driven by this unassuming drive-through thousands of times, it was a post on the lively Facebook page “Save Sonoma Restaurants” that really piqued my interest as diners argued over the best Sonoma County Mexican food. I’m officially tapping La Plaza as a top contender. Even our giant takeout order (which apparently briefly closed the restaurant) was perfectly packed and incredibly flavorful and impressive.
My first indication that the food might be good? Ceviche Vallarta with brunoise crujiente (crunchy, small-diced vegetables). Someone has some knife skills, clearly, but it was the harmonious citrus marinade strong enough to “cook” the raw shrimp and whitefish without blistering the palate. It was so good I actually drank the remaining marinade the next morning.
Also great: grilled panella cheese with chili-lime salt (we missed the part about the chipotle salsa and flame-grilled tortillas to go with it, but it was great just plain).
Twice-cooked potatoes with barbecue sauce, crema and chipotle aioli were a perfect match to St. Louis spare ribs with tomato onion jalapeno sauce, and chicken in chipotle cream with mushrooms was a decadent foil to hotter dishes. Our only complaint was that the chicken seemed a bit overcooked. There are plenty of taqueria favorites as well, including fish tacos, burritos, chile relleno and quesadillas along with a fun dessert of cinnamon tortilla chips with cajeta caramel and chocolate drizzle. Our massive order (which included several more entrees) was just over $100.
Menu online at laplazasantarosa.com, call to order, 707-578-1551. Pickup at the drive-through, limited inside dining available. 2930 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa
April Pantry
The grilled cheese sandwich with cherry tomato salad never made it past the Highway 101 onramp. With crunchy, griddled sourdough bread and Gouda and Cowgirl Creamery Wagon Wheel cheeses, it seemed a sin to let it linger in a steamy to-go box. Good call for me. Bad call for my car upholstery. Some sacrifices must me made.
Newly-established at the former Ulia’s Deli in a Petaluma office park, the kitchen has some serious talent making crave-worthy sandwiches and salads. Another of our favorites was the Billionaire’s BLT, with crunchy sweet bacon, juicy heirloom tomatoes (finally in season) and smoked tomato jam.
We fought over the barbecue pork banh mi on a soft French roll, but it was the Aloha Plate, with fresh mac salad, coconut rice and fried chicken we really went crazy about. As Ohana regulars, we appreciated April Pantry’s fresh approach, and that rice — oh, that coconut rice. Easy online ordering, breakfast specials and giant cookies the size of your head, plus catering services.
Patio dining or takeout. 1000 Clegg St., Petaluma, 707-658-1326, aprilpantry.com
Paris on the Terrace, Jordan Winery
Winding oaks shade the patio of this carefully groomed property overlooking idyllic Alexander Valley hillsides. Inspired by historic ivy-covered French estates, it’s perfect for a Parisian-themed outdoor bistro featuring Chef Todd Knoll’s straight-from-the-garden dishes that are almost too heartbreakingly beautiful to eat.
Each course is paired with Jordan wines, from their AR Lenoble champagne to a well-balanced 2018 chardonnay and lip-smacking cabernet sauvignons. What took our breath away were the perfectly of-the-season dishes with estate vegetables, a charcuterie plate with local Journeyman meats and duck confit with stone fruit and quinoa.
What made it so special, however, was the luxuriousness of an afternoon spent with an old friend as a cool summer breeze and plenty of catch-up chatter wound around our wine glasses. It almost felt like old times. Almost.
$110 per person, reservations required, limit of 12 people per seating. 11 a.m. and 2 p.m., Thursday through Monday, until Sept. 7. Details at jordanwinery.com/visit
The best wine tastes better when it’s in a glass next to great food. If that dish happens to be dessert, even better. With summer nights in our sights, indulging in a dessert and wine pairing does more than satisfy a sweet tooth, it encourages us to linger at the table a little longer. We asked some of our favorite local chefs to share a prized recipe and tell us what they choose to sip alongside. Enjoy, and you’re welcome!
Delicious Wine Country Desserts
Chef Sondra Bernstein of the girl & the fig in Sonoma. (Christopher Chung)
Chef Sondra Bernstein
“As summer produce starts to show up at the farmers market, it is the perfect time to make a cobbler,” said chef Sondra Bernstein of the girl & the fig in Sonoma.
She suggests two different wines for her Apricot & Blackberry Cobbler. Choose between Anaba Wines, 2018 Late Harvest Sonoma Valley Viognier, and the Loxton 2015 Sonoma Valley Syrah Port.
Apricot & Blackberry Cobbler
Makes 6 to 8 individual cobblers or 1 large 8×8-inch cobbler
For the dough:
1 cup all-purpose flour
3⁄4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon ground allspice
1 teaspoon salt
1 large egg
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
For the filling:
12 fresh apricots
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons cornstarch
4 pints blackberries
1⁄4 cup lightly packed brown sugar
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces
To prepare the dough:
In a mixer on slow speed, combine the flour, sugar, cinnamon, baking powder, allspice, and salt. Add the egg to the dry ingredients. Add the melted butter and mix. Form the dough into a ball, wrap it in plastic and chill the dough for at least two hours and up to overnight.
Divide the chilled dough into 6 portions. Roll out the dough between pieces of wax paper so the dough is at least 1⁄2-inch larger than the size of the ramekin on all sides if making individual cobblers. Preheat the oven to 375°F.
To prepare the filling:
Quarter the apricots and coat them with lemon juice. In a separate bowl, dissolve the cornstarch in 2 tablespoons of water. Add the blackberries, apricots, and brown sugar to the bowl with the apricots and mix gently. Place an equal amount of the filling into each baking dish. Add 1⁄2 tablespoon of butter over each portion. Cover with a layer of solid dough or create a lattice topping by trimming the dough into 14 to 16 1⁄2-inch strips using a knife or a pizza wheel. Weave the dough strips over the filling by going over and under to create a lattice. Let the strips come a bit over the edge of the baking dish as the dough will slightly shrink as it bakes. Bake the cobbler for 40 to 50 minutes until the crust is golden brown. Let cool.
To serve:
Serve each portion with a scoop of ice cream or gelato.
Chef Liza Hinman of The Spinster Sisters. (Christopher Chung)
Chef Liza Hinman
“This recipe can be used for any combination of summer fruit and berries. I typically like to have two fruit together – often one stone fruit and one berry (2:1 ratio), which go wonderfully together,” said chef Liza Hinman of The Spinster Sisters in Santa Rosa.
Three variations she recommends include: apricot and cherry, peach and blackberry, and plum (or pluot) and raspberry. Hinman’s go-to wine to pair with this dessert is Amista’s Sparkling Grenache.
Summertime Fruit Crisp
Crisp topping:
8 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
½ cup all-purpose Flour
2/3 cup brown sugar
½ teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ cup rolled oats
½ teaspoon vanilla
¼ cup roughly chopped almonds
Crisp topping procedure:
Add dry ingredients and almonds into a bowl and whisk lightly.
Add the melted butter and vanilla to the dry ingredients and, using your fingers, lightly incorporate until moist clumps appear (loose cookie dough consistency). Hold in the refrigerator while you prepare the fruit filling. Topping can also be made ahead and frozen in a plastic bag for up to 3 months.
Fruit filling:
4 cups of stone fruit, cut into wedges or chunks
2 cups of cleaned berries
½ cup granulated sugar
2 tablespoons cornstarch (may need additional if fruit is quite juicy)
1 tablespoons lemon juice
Fruit filling procedure:
Whisk the sugar and cornstarch together in a large bowl to remove any lumps. Add the stone fruit to the bowl with the lemon juice and toss lightly to coat.
To finish the crisp:
Pre-heat to 350°, and butter a 9×9 or 11×7 baking dish.
Spread the stone fruit over the bottom of the pan, then sprinkle the berries over and lightly mix together. Scatter the crisp topping over in clumps. Place into the oven for 30-40 minutes, until the edges are bubbling, and the topping is golden brown. Place on a wire rack and allow to cool for at least 15 minutes before serving.
Serve with whipped cream or crème fraiche, or a rich vanilla ice cream.
Chef Charlie Palmer owns Dry Creek Kitchen in Healdsburg in addition to more than a dozen restaurants across the country.
Chef Charlie Palmer
Chef Charlie Palmer shared his recipe for Pear Tarte Tatin, which appears in his American Fare cookbook. He typically pairs it with a nice Riesling or a Sonoma Coast Gewürztraminer. Two of his favorites include: Gundlach Bundschu, 2018 Estate Gewürztraminer, Sonoma Coast, and Scribe 2017 Riesling Arrowhead Slope, Sonoma County.
Pear Tarte Tatin
Makes one 9-inch tart
3⁄4 cup tightly packed light brown sugar
1⁄2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
5 large firm pears, peeled, cored, and cut into quarters
1 piece frozen puff pastry (see Note), thawed
Whipped cream, crème fraîche, frozen vanilla yogurt, or caramel ice cream, for serving, optional
Preheat the oven to 375°F.
Combine the sugar and 1⁄4 cup cold water in an 8-inch nonstick, ovenproof frying pan over low heat. Cook, stirring constantly, for about 3 minutes or until the sugar has dissolved. Raise the heat to medium and bring to a boil. Allow to cook at a gentle boil, without stirring, for about 6 minutes or until a golden syrup has formed. Stir in the butter and cook, stirring, until well blended.
Remove the pan from the heat and carefully arrange the pear quarters, cut sides facing up, in a slightly overlapping circle in the caramel, and place 2 or 3 halves in the middle to fill any open space.
Lightly flour a clean, flat work surface. Place the pastry onto the floured surface and, using a rolling pin, roll the pastry out to a shape large enough to cut out a circle about 9 inches in diameter. Using a paring knife, cut out the circle and place over the pears. Fold the excess edge under to enclose the fruit. Using a paring knife, cut at least 4 slits in the center of the pastry to allow steam to escape. Bake the tarte for about 35 minutes or until the pastry has puffed and is golden brown.
Let cool on a wire rack to set for about 5 minutes. Using a small, sharp knife, loosen the edges from the pan and then place the serving plate over the pan and carefully invert the tart onto it. Remove the pan.
Serve warm, with a topping of choice if you like.
Note: Both Trader Joe’s and Dufour make excellent frozen puff pastry. The first is, obviously, available at Trader Joe’s markets; Dufour is available at many supermarkets and specialty food stores as well as online.
Chef Duskie Estes and John Stewart on their Black Pig food truck in the VIP area at BottleRock 2019. (Heather Irwin)
Chef Duskie Estes & Chef John Stewart
The love for summer fruit continues to shine in this recipe for Cherry + Rhubarb Crostata with Rose Geranium Gelato from chefs Duskie Estes and John Stewart.
“You can also garnish with some almond whipped cream, if the ice cream making is too much work,” said chef Duskie Estes of Farm to Pantry. “But nowadays we have more time at home.”
For the wine pairing, Estes recommends Gratitude Late Harvest Viognier from Davis Family Vineyards or bubbles from Iron Horse Vineyards. “I love the rainbow cuvée!” said Estes.
Cherry + Rhubarb Crostata with Rose Geranium Gelato Makes 4 crostatas
For the crostata dough:
8 oz cold unsalted butter
2 1/4 cups flour
a pinch of kosher salt
3 – 4 tablespoons ice water
For the crostata filling:
1# cherries, pitted and 1/2’d
1# rhubarb, diced
1 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon almond extract
2 tablespoons cornstarch
1 egg, beaten
demerara sugar to sprinkle
To make the crostata dough, cut the butter into small chunks and place in a food processor with the flour and salt. Pulse until the mixture resembles cornmeal. With the processor running, gradually add the water, using only enough water to bring the dough together. Wrap and refrigerate at least one hour.
Preheat the oven to 375°. Roll out the dough on lightly floured surface to 4 circles, 7 inches in diameter each, and about 1/8 inch thick. In a bowl, toss the rhubarb & cherries with the sugar, cornstarch and almond extract. Mound the fruit in the center of the dough. Gently fold the dough up toward the center of the rhubarb, creating an edge about 1 1/2 inches wide, pleating dough evenly as you fold around each circle. Brush the edges with the egg and sprinkle with sugar. Bake until golden brown, about 20 to 25 minutes.
For the gelato:
3 cups milk
3 cups heavy cream
2 cups sugar
A sprig of rose geranium or 1 cup picked leaves packed
In a pot on medium-high heat bring ingredients up to a simmer. Cool in an ice bath and let steep 1 hour. Strain off the leaves and turn in ice cream maker according to its instructions. Scoop and serve on top of warmed crostata.
After months of coronavirus-prompted closures, retail businesses in Sonoma County are welcoming customers back into their stores but many continue to face economic hardship and uncertainty — for some, the situation is so volatile that circumstances can change overnight, sometimes for the better, sometimes for the worse.
Made Local Marketplace in Santa Rosa, a prime retail shop for artisan products, announced its closure on June 19. The announcement was met with a flood of devastated responses from customers and makers alike —”some were in tears,” said store co-owner and tireless shop-local champion Kelley Rajala. But within five days, things had changed: at the 11th hour, realtor Willow Peterson made the decision to take over the business, allowing it to remain open.
Rajala, who is planning a move to Minnesota to manage her grandfather’s sustainable tree farm, will work with co-owner Pam Dale to transition the downtown business to new ownership. Rajala hopes shoppers will make an effort to continue supporting Made Local Marketplace, which in turn supports local artisans and helps keep tax revenue local.
Kelley Rajala, owner of Made Local Marketplace in Santa Rosa. (James Dunn)
Further down on Fourth Street, the doors are open at stationary, house-ware and art store Corrick’s, now in its 105th year of business. The original owner’s great grandson, Keven Brown, and his wife, Jeri, helm the store. Virtual shopping and phone orders kept the Browns busy during the shutdown along with local deliveries, which, according to Keven, “felt like old times,” when the company had four delivery trucks.
Keven Brown has observed a return to community-mindedness in these past few months — as people spend more time at home and settle into a slower pace of life, they want to talk, he said. As for the most popular thing to buy right now: The “change the date” wedding announcements that Corrick’s personalizes and sends out is in high demand.
At the Barlow in Sebastopol, the storefronts of Scout West County and Elsie Green still bear each business’s signage but the showrooms have been emptied of all inventory. Covid-19 is the latest in a series of sales setbacks for Barlow businesses with the 2017 wildfires, major flooding in February 2019, which damaged much of the industrial-chic shopping site, and then preemptive power outages and the Kincade fire later that year.
Oliver and Grace Estrada, owners of Scout West County, with their dog, Scout. (Michelle Pattee Photography)
While both businesses have closed their Sebastopol store fronts, customers can still shop Scout West County’s curated line of womenswear, menswear, accessories and home goods in Healdsburg (418 Healdsburg Ave.) and online (scoutwestcounty.com) and Elsie Green’s vintage French home goods in Concord (2954 Treat Blvd Suite C) and online (elsiegreen.com).
Kerry Mitchell, owner of Native Riders roadside shop on Gravenstein Highway in Sebastopol, recalls when his family’s business in Laguna Beach had to close in the 1970s. The property on which the family operated their Native American clothing and arts store was owned by the Mardian brothers, associates of then president Richard Nixon (Robert Mardian served in the Nixon administration and was embroiled in the Watergate scandal as one of the “Watergate Seven.”) The government seized the property following arrests in the Watergate scandal and it was later converted into a parking lot, “around the time that Joni Mitchell was singing about (paving “paradise” into) parking lots,” said Kerry Mitchell.
The owner of Native Riders now fears losing his business again. “History seems to be repeating itself,” he said. His store, which sells handmade leather, feather and beaded jackets, accessories and more, reopened a few weeks ago and has since seen a return of customers. Many of the first to return to the store were Native American, said Mitchell, and added, “we take care of each other.”
Around the Sonoma Plaza, most stores are now open — some with reduced hours. Signs about safety abound: “Welcome to Sonoma. Wear a mask.”
After weathering the shutdown by pivoting to virtual shopping appointments and online sales, proprietors are eager to see customers again. Erica Heald, owner of Perlé on West Napa Street, had planned to open an accessory boutique, Myriad, on April 1, just two weeks after the shelter-in-place order was issued. While she is excited to recently have been able to open her new store, Heald mentions that operating any retail business now also comes with safety concerns: for customers, staff, and yourself. Sanitizing hands, in addition to wearing a mask, is required upon entrance to her Sonoma store.
Aware of the recent surge in Covid-19 cases, Heald and other store proprietors in Sonoma County are worried about another shutdown. To cope with the uncertainty, Heald focuses on good moments in her hometown store, a place which customers can escape to or just “come to vent.” She wishes she could hug people but, for now, it’s “air hugs” all around.
After months of sheltering in place, many of us are craving a change of scenery. With relaxed Covid-19 restrictions and the gradual reopening of Sonoma County, area hotels are now beginning to welcome leisure travelers back again while also working hard to ensure a safe stay and an enjoyable experience for visitors. Locals looking for a close-to-home getaway have a list of options. But it’s never been more important to do your homework first: regulations and safety protocols vary between properties. Knowing what to expect will go a long way toward making any staycation more comfortable and relaxing. Here are a few things to keep in mind.
How check-in and check-out has changed
To reduce physical interaction, check-in and check-out procedures have been streamlined at most properties — many details can now be handled online ahead of arrival.
Four Sisters Inns, which operates Healdsburg Inn on the Plaza, Kenwood Inn & Spa, Inn at Sonoma, and Gaige House + Ryokan in Glen Ellen, is taking things a step further: in addition to an “express pre-arrival” check-in and texting service, guests also receive a phone call three days prior to arrival to discuss property changes and process payment, eliminating any credit card back and forth at arrival.
At AutoCamp Russian River, General Manager Mark Belhumeur says the property has “mastered a contactless check-in where guests can bypass the front desk entirely.” Entry to the property’s iconic Airstreams require a door code as opposed to a key. A welcome email sent before arrival contains everything guests need for access.
One of the first changes many guests may notice when arriving at lodgings throughout Sonoma County is the lack of valet service. Some properties, including Vintners Resort in Santa Rosa and MacArthur Place in Sonoma (both reopening on July 1), have suspended the service, making space available for guests to self-park. At Hotel Healdsburg, along with self-parking, valet service is available upon request.
The Astro in Santa Rosa is limiting their compact lobby to two guests at a time; guests waiting to check-in can hang out in the courtyard. When it’s time to check-out travelers can skip the lobby altogether and simply leave their key in their room.
The Astro courtyard.
How Housekeeping Has Changed
While cleanliness has always been a top priority at hotels throughout Sonoma County, it’s gained added significance due to Covid-19. Countless new standards and protocols have been put into place, utilizing everything from UV light to high-tech disinfectants to keep surfaces clean, and cleaning staff is now suited in personal protective equipment (PPE).
“Our current procedures include blocking and booking rooms so that a room may remain vacant for a minimum of 24 hours to allow a full cleaning and disinfecting process,” said Rosa Salgado, Housekeeping Manager at Hotel Healdsburg. “This works to keep both our guests and our employees safe.”
Time also plays a role in the cleaning procedures put in place at Santa Rosa’s Vintners Resort. “All rooms are cleaned and rested for at least 24 hours prior to the next check in,” said General Manager, Percy Brandon. Turndown service at Vintners Resort has also been temporarily discontinued.
At MacArthur Place, turndown service will be provided automatically in suites, but only by request in guest rooms. MacArthur Place has also appointed a full-time Cleanliness Steward dedicated to constantly sanitizing surfaces throughout the property such as door handles, tables, and countertops.
In many instances, properties have opted to remove non-essential, high-touch items such as throw pillows, magazines, and minibar provisions from rooms.
What Amenities Are Available?
This is where being organized and doing your research will help ensure you book the getaway that’s right for your staycation needs. Don’t make any assumptions about available services. As a result of the pandemic, amenity offerings have changed.
Pool at Hotel Healdsburg.
At Hotel Healdsburg, the pool and gym are open by appointment only to maintain social distancing and allowing for proper cleaning and disinfecting.
The fitness center at MacArthur Place is closed, but assorted equipment such as weights, mats, and kettlebells have been moved outside for workouts. The pool is open with pairs of sanitized lounge chairs physically distanced for safety. The spa at Vintners Resort remains closed, but the outdoor pool is open for hotel guests, with distancing taken into account in regards to seating.
Nightly wine and cheese buffets, a much-loved part of the experience for returning guests at Four Sisters Inns, have been replaced with picnic boxes packed with wine, a cheese plate for two and freshly baked cookies. Guests can enjoy them in their room, or bring them on their excursions.
Nightly wine and cheese spreads at Four Sisters Inns have been replaced with picnic boxes. (Photo Courtesy Four Sisters Inns)
Buffet breakfast offerings at Four Sisters Inns have been replaced with seated meals, available with advance reservation. Breakfast can also be delivered directly to a guestroom doorstep, without staff entering the room.
AutoCamp Russian River has temporarily discontinued their continental breakfast, but plans to bring it back when county regulations allow.
The lounge at The Astro is temporarily closed, but complimentary Flying Goat coffee is available from 7 a.m. to 10 a.m. every morning in the lobby.
Have you stayed in a Sonoma County hotel during the pandemic? Let us know about your experience in the comments below.
Oakland residents Jude Bermeo, left, and Christine Olivo float down the Russian River, Tuesday, June 4, 2019 in Monte Rio. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat) 2019
No doubt, this will be an unusual summer — but that’s no excuse to stay inside watching TV for the next few months. Thankfully, spending time outdoors lowers the risk of coronavirus spread (compared to indoor activities) so now is the ideal time to embrace nature and the fresh air. Scroll through the gallery above to see our favorite (pandemic-friendly) summer activities.
Did we miss one of your favorite activities? Let us know in the comments!
Need a little pick-me-up in your love life? Feeling bored with the usual Friday night takeout? We’ve got you covered — from movie night to at-home fine dining, these five pandemic-friendly date ideas are just too much fun to pass up. Click through the gallery to find inspiration for your next rendezvous.
Not quarantining with your significant other? No worries — these dates are just as romantic over FaceTime or Zoom.