Page 212 – Sonoma Magazine

Visit Sonoma County’s Historic Vineyards Through 20 Stunning Photographs

November 2020

By Stacy Briscoe

Gnarled vine from a Monte Rosso vineyard above the Valley of the Moon as zinfandel marbles through veraison, 2020. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)

Can a vineyard have a soul? For the growers and winemakers who work with Sonoma’s old vines, the answer is yes, it most definitely can. Enduring for generations, our historic vineyards convey a solidity and timelessness that reassures in this moment of uncertainty.

Photographer Kent Porter and writer Stacy Briscoe open a window into the beauty of the old-vine harvest and introduce us to a grassroots group of locals whose stewardship protects this rare and highly prized crop. Click through the above slideshow for photos.

Winemaker Morgan Twain-Peterson of Bedrock Wine Co. has a deep obsession with Sonoma’s gnarliest oldvine vineyards. “These vines have survived two world wars, Prohibition, the change of consumer taste — and they’re still in the ground,” he says with a reverence he comes by honestly, having grown up in a prominent winemaking family. (As the story goes, he made his first wine, a Pinot Noir, at the tender age of 5.)

At a time when many aspects of our lives seem to be in a holding pattern due to circumstances beyond our control, these old vines represent a timelessness that comforts and reassures. Twain-Peterson calls their enduring nature a “Darwinian survival mechanism.” From a grower’s perspective, he explains, there are fundamental reasons these plants thrive: their root structures are deeper, the vines less susceptible to climactic changes, pests, and viruses.

“But I think the reason old vines do so well here is tradition,” he says.

Down a small lane near what is now Valley of the Moon Winery, Twain-Peterson’s 152-acre Bedrock Vineyard represents a chance for the winemaker to follow in the footsteps of history, quite literally. The vineyard was first planted in the 1850s by William Tecumseh Sherman and Joseph “Fighting Joe” Hooker, who both went on to prominent military careers during the Civil War. The vineyard was replanted in 1888 after an epidemic of phylloxera wiped out the original plantings. It’s these same 130-year-old vines that go into Twain-Peterson’s award-winning Bedrock Heritage wines.

Winemaker Mike Officer of Carlisle Winery & Vineyards shares those deep roots, living in the Russian River Valley among 11.2 acres of vines that are nearly a hundred years old. “I like history, genealogy, the people of the past. I like old things,” he laughs. He sources the fruit for his wines from several different historic vineyards around the county, but names Russian River Valley as the area of Sonoma with the most historic plantings and calls his neighborhood, the Piner-Olivet area, old vine “ground zero.”

In 2006 a number of vineyards in the Piner-Olivet area were sold to a private real estate investment firm, which ripped out the vines and re-planted with more profitable Pinot Noir. Officer was heartbroken; he had long-term relationships with many of the vineyards that were ripped out. “Twenty-two acres of beautiful old vines that created wonderful wine, just gone in one day,” Officer recalls. “And even though it was on a path I traveled at least several times a week, I had to take a detour — for many years — because I couldn’t even look at it.”

Officer’s heartbreak and his passion for old-vine vineyards were the impetus for the founding of the Historic Vineyard Society, a grassroots collective of growers and winemakers who protect these vines and promote the use of their fruit. “We were seeing this [ripping out of old vineyards] all over the place,” says Bedrock’s Twain-Peterson, who also helped found the group. “We were losing rare resources without any idea how much we were losing.”

The society started by establishing a registry of historic vineyards and has moved into promotion, hosting tastings of old-vine wines. To be included in the registry, a vineyard has to have been planted more than 50 years ago. At least a third of the vines must be traceable back to the original planting date.

“It’s all stewardship. That’s the difference with historic vineyards,” says Jake Bilbro, owner of Limerick Lane Cellars and a fourth generation Sonoma grower and winemaker. He lives with his family in a home built in 1910, the same year his vines were planted. Bilbro produces Zinfandel and Rhône-style wines from the original plantings and says he’s reached a level of “intune- ship” with both the land and the legacy it holds. “Our vintages are chapters in a story, and it’s a real romance novel,” he says.

Bilbro, too, attributes the success of Sonoma’s old vines to tradition and family. “Vines are resilient and can grow in different conditions, but they won’t unless a family can take care of them and keep the lineage going.”

April Nalle of Nalle Winery in the Dry Creek Valley, Thursday, July 30, 2020. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat) 2020 — April Nalle of Nalle Winery in the Dry Creek Valley, Thursday, July 30, 2020. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)

April and Andrew Nalle are caretakers of a Dry Creek Valley vineyard that dates back to the 1880s and has been farmed by their family for five generations, beginning with Andrew’s great-great-grandparents in 1917. “We care so deeply about how the wine tastes. If the flavors don’t match what our family has always stood for, that would be hard to live with,” says April, a viticulturist. She lovingly refers to the taste as “zin-berry” — low alcohol, high acid, and fresh fruit in balance with the full-bodied old-vine Zinfandel. It’s a style of winemaking that necessitates an early harvest and a light touch with the fruit.

“How we make the wine off these vines is something that’s been carried through for generations,” she explains. “Thinking how these vines have been here for 100 years, about the people who made the wine, drank the wine, and shared the wine over family dinners — and being able to continue that tradition — that’s what gives these wines a sense of place.”

Gnarled vine from a Monte Rosso vineyard above the Valley of the Moon as zinfandel marbles through veraison. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat) 2020 — Gnarled vine from a Monte Rosso vineyard above the Valley of the Moon as zinfandel marbles through veraison. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)

One of the few grapes with red juice, an alicante is squeezed to show its true color. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat) 2020 — One of the few grapes with red juice, an alicante is squeezed to show its true color. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)

Taste Sonoma County’s Old Vines

The Historic Vineyard Society’s website, historicvineyardsociety.org,
maintains descriptions of Sonoma’s historic vineyards.

RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY

CARLISLE VINEYARDS
Planted: 1927
To try: Carlisle Winery & Vineyard
2018 “Piner-Olivet Ranches”
Zinfandel, $38

JACKASS HILL VINEYARD
Planted: 1880s
To try: Martinelli 2015 Jackass Hill
Muscat Alexandria, $32 for 375 ml

PAPERA RANCH
Planted: 1934
To try: Williams Selyem 2018
Papera Vineyard Zinfandel, $65

SONOMA VALLEY

BEDROCK VINEYARD
Planted: 1888
To try: Bedrock Wine Co. 2018
“The Bedrock Heritage,” $45

LIMERICK LANE VINEYARD
Planted: 1910
To try: Limerick Lane Cellars 2018
“1910 Block” Zinfandel, $65

OLD HILL RANCH
Planted: 1880s
To try: Bucklin Old Hill Ranch 2018
Ancient Grenache, $40

MONTECILLO VINEYARD
Planted: 1960s
To try: Arnot-Roberts 2017
Montecillo Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon, $90

MOON MOUNTAIN

MONTE ROSSO VINEYARD
Planted: 1886
To try: Louis M. Martini 2017
Gnarly Vine Zinfandel, $75

ALEXANDER VALLEY

SEGHESIO HOME RANCH
Planted: 1895
To try: Seghesio Family Vineyards
2017 Home Ranch Zinfandel, $60

DRY CREEK VALLEY

LYTTON ESTATE
Planted: 1900s
To try: Ridge 2017 Lytton Springs
Red Blend, $45

HENDERLONG NALLE VINEYARD
Planted: 1927
To try: Nalle Winery 2018 Estate
Old Vine Zin, $48

Santa Rosa Artist Pays Tribute to Essential Workers

November 2020

By Dan Taylor

Artist John Deckert works on a painting of a pair of firefighters, at his home in Santa Rosa on Thursday, April 23, 2020. Deckert is making small paintings of essential workers, performing their duties during the shelter in place. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)

We’ve all seen paintings of heroes — generals on horseback, soldiers in battle raising the flag — but how often have you seen an ambulance driver or a letter carrier exalted through portraiture? Not often.

John Deckert decided to do something about that.

Deckert, 72, who lives in Santa Rosa’s Rincon Valley, is a professional artist as well as a longtime Marine reservist with 35 paintings in the permanent collection of the National Museum of the Marine Corps in Quantico, Virginia.

Since the beginning of the coronavirus pandemic, Deckert has been focused on a series of oil portraits that celebrate those whose work must continue despite Covid-19 — EMTs in an ambulance, a tree-trimming crew, his UPS delivery driver. More recently, he’s been working on portraits created from selfie photographs given to him by a dozen emergency-room nurses at Santa Rosa Memorial Hospital. “I’m a painter, so my way of saying thanks is to do a painting,” Deckert explains.

One of Deckert’s subjects is his former mail carrier, Ronald Crawley. “He photographed me at his mailbox and told me he was doing paintings of people still doing their jobs during the coronavirus. People think we’re heroes, or something special, but I was just grateful to still be working,” says Crawley, who recently retired. “I think his project is pretty cool, something that will be remembered for a long time to come.”

From Aztec Mocha to Swedish Fika: The Best Hot Drinks in Sonoma County

November 2020

By Sonoma Magazine Staff

An Aztec hot chocolate at Plank Coffee in Cloverdale. (Beth Schlanker/The Press Democrat)

The days are getting colder here in Sonoma County. While we may not have to shovel snow from our driveways to get to work, a cup filled with warmth is still a welcome way to start the day — or pick me up in the afternoon. From caffeinated to sweet beverages, click through the gallery for 15 satisfyingly warm and cozy drinks in Sonoma County.

Thanks a latte for reading! Let us know (in the comments below) your favorite place to grab a warm drink in Sonoma County.

Recently Opened Healdsburg Farm Retreat Offers Luxe Getaway

November 2020

By Jess Lander

At NewTree Ranch in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of NewTree Ranch)

Editor’s Note: Travel, dining and wine tasting can be complicated right now. Use our inspirational ideas to plan ahead for your next outing, be it this week or next year.

How many times have you gone on vacation only to return home feeling, well, like you needed another vacation?

Finding the time and place to relax is more important than ever. But getting away from it all can prove a challenge—especially right now. Amid coronavirus concerns and restrictions, US travelers are finding new ways to unwind by seeking out getaways that offer “fresh air, bucolic scenery, and ample room for physical distancing,” according to Business Insider. Unique accommodations such as treehouses and airstreams are growing in popularity, along with the latest travel trend: farm stays.

A recently opened property in Healdsburg, NewTree Ranch, is tapping into these travel trends by offering guests a breath of fresh air, plenty of space to roam and an opportunity to connect with the land.

Wellness with a twist

Less than 15 minutes from downtown Healdsburg, yet far away from the crowds, the secluded NewTree Ranch bills itself as a wellness retreat. But, unlike other wellness retreats, which tend to be heavily regimented, it puts the guests in charge of their experience.

If you want to spend your stay working remotely, lounging by the pool, and going for the occasional walk, you can do so. But if you would like a more immersive experience—connecting with nature, unleashing your creativity, unblocking your emotions, or confronting traumas, fears and anxieties—then this can be arranged, too.

The biodynamic farm at NewTree Ranch in Healdsburg. (Jess Lander / Sonoma Magazine)

NewTree Ranch’s particular approach to wellness is based on the idea that, by disconnecting with the outside world and reconnecting with ourselves, we can shift our perspective and achieve a more relaxed state of being. Co-founder and CEO Edward Newell experienced this for himself when he gave up a busy career in the corporate world to start this Healdsburg retreat. He says he used to work constantly, taking more than a dozen flights each month and spending most night in hotels, working until he went to bed.

“Now I’m relaxed all the time,” said Newell, noting how he used to seek out something like a massage in order to unwind. “Relaxed is a state of being, but we grow up thinking it’s something to be provided externally,” he added.

A ranch of one’s own

Another aspect that makes NewTree Ranch stand out from other retreats is the amount of privacy it provides to its guests. There’s only one guest accommodation on the property—The Ranch Estate, which sleeps 8. If you book a stay (minimum stay is four nights), you’ll have the 120-acre property all to yourself—sharing space only with the owners and the staff, plus a few animals. All of this comes at a price, of course: $4000 per night for the ranch estate.

The ranch estate has four bedrooms and bathrooms, a large living room with fireplace, a spacious kitchen, a formal dining room, and numerous light-filled nooks to relax in, including an outdoor lounge area with a fire pit, dining table and a solar-heated pool. Guests also have access to a glamping safari tent, complete with a hot tub on the deck.

Cellphone service is spotty at the ranch and while the estate does have wifi, this is the only place where guests can get a good signal. Newell mentioned that a few guests have requested to have the internet turned off from Saturday to Sunday noon. “People love that,” he said, “(they) really notice how they connect more (with each other) in those 24 hours.”

A cold plunge

NewTree Ranch offers an array of wellness experiences—some included, some for an additional cost.

It’s up to each guest to tailor their stay according to their own interest, and comfort level. Some visitors might play things simple—collecting eggs from the lively chicken coop, taking a plant-based cooking class, or spending time with the two Scottish Highlander cows, Kathy and Eddie, a spirited donkey named Fuzzy, and other animals that reside on the ranch. Others might dive deeper, booking experiences such as the “lakeside sound journey” with Tibetan singing bowls, or challenge themselves by spending an afternoon learning breathing techniques—part of what’s called the Wim Hof Method—before taking a dip in a bathtub filled with ice water.

The lakeside sound journey experience at NewTree Ranch in Healdsburg. (Jess Lander / Sonoma Magazine)

Ice bath for Wim Hof Experience at NewTree Ranch in Healdsburg. (Jess Lander / Sonoma Magazine)

Each experience at NewTree Ranch is intended to provide a fresh perspective and healing to the participant. The sound journey, for example, aims to “align and restore energy fields, and release tension or stress,” while the Wim Hof experience allows participants to “reconnect with the body’s inner wisdom.” The Wim Hof Method instructor at NewTree Ranch, Chuck McGee, says that the ice bath part of the experience is intended to train the body to better handle stress, pain and difficult circumstances.

While the idea of being submerged in ice water may seem extreme and anxiety inducing, Wim Hof—a Dutch extreme athlete—has attracted millions of followers worldwide, who swear his method has cured everything from depression to diabetes.

Farm-to-table for real

Newell, who lives on the ranch, wants to show people where their food is coming from and guests can expect the real-deal farm-to-table experience.

The plant-based culinary program at NewTree Ranch is led by chef Matteo Silverman, who sources ingredients for his dishes from the onsite biodynamic farm. Guests pay extra for these meals and can choose from a variety of board options ranging from $50 to $110 per person, per day.

Radish ravioli and quinoa sushi at NewTree Ranch in Healdsburg. (Jess Lander / Sonoma Magazine)

Veggie pizza at NewTree Ranch in Healdsburg. (Jess Lander / Sonoma Magazine)

The menu at NewTree Ranch changes with the seasons. On a recent visit, dishes included welcome crudités with creamy eggplant baba ganoush and dried apples with walnut butter; whole spelt pizza topped with shishitocini (shishito peppers pickled like pepperoncini) and fresh-picked veggies for dinner; pink ravioli made from two slices of watermelon radish stuffed with thyme-scented cashew cheese and topped with a Thai basil puree; and chia seed pudding or a savory autumn vegetable frittata for breakfast. Most meals are paired with fresh juices, like honeydew and melon, watermelon lime agua fresca, or a verbena cucumber refresher.

If guests would prefer to cook their own meals, they can do so in the ranch house’s expansive kitchen, making use of fresh ingredients from the farm or bringing their own produce.

3600 Wallace Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-9643, newtreeranch.com

5 Eco-Friendly Sonoma Wineries You Should Know

November 2020

By Linda Murphy

Outdoor tasting at Anaba Wines in Sonoma. (Courtesy of Anaba Wines)

Sonoma wineries increasingly employ environmentally ethical practices to their businesses, not only to produce better wines but to take care of the land for future generations, lower carbon footprints, preserve natural habitats, reduce or eliminate the use of harmful herbicides and pesticides and sustain agricultural businesses for the long term.

There are many ways wineries and growers approach the challenge and many organizations and certification boards that give their blessings to “green” wine making and grape growing. In 2014, Sonoma County Winegrowers committed to becoming the most sustainable winegrowing region in the world. The organization claims that 99% of the vineyard acreage in the county now has been certified sustainable by a third-party program.

But “sustainable” is subjective, not just in Sonoma, but throughout the world. In its broadest definition, it means an entity has developed practices that are environmentally friendly, socially responsible and economically viable. Organic farming enters the sustainability picture by specifically banning the use of synthetic pesticides and herbicides in agriculture. Biodynamic farming has been called “organics on steroids,” with the addition of natural compost applications, farm-animal waste used as fertilizers and even planting by the lunar cycle.

Benziger Family Winery in Glen Ellen has been the leader in Sonoma County biodynamic farming for two decades, encouraging a healthy ecosystem. Santa Rosa’s Kendall-Jackson, one of California’s largest wine producers, is a winner of the California Green Medal Leader Award for its many sustainability programs. Silver Oak Alexander Valley earned global recognition in 2017 for its Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) Platinum status, making it the first commercial winery in the world to attain the green-building program’s highest recognition for new construction.

But these aren’t the only Sonoma wineries making big moves to do the right thing for the land, vines, wines, employees and neighbors. Here are five others to know and visit now. Note that their coronavirus-related protocols require appointment-only visits, outdoor service and masks worn except when seated.

Anaba Wines

In 2009, this Sonoma Valley winery became the first in Northern California to use wind to help power operations. Owner John T. Sweazey installed a 45-foot Skystream wind turbine on the Carneros property, allowing the anabatic winds from San Pablo Bay and the Pacific Ocean turn the turbine’s rotors and produce electricity. An electric car charging station was added in 2015, for use by tasting room guests and staff, and solar panels are being installed. “By the end of 2020, we plan to be producing more power than we use, between wind and solar sources," Anaba Brand Manager Molly Lomenzo said.

Sweazey’s son, John Michael, now runs the winery, and Katy Wilson is the winemaker. Burgundian and Rhone Valley varieties are the focus here: chardonnays, pinot noirs, viogniers and syrahs that are elegant, refined and energetic. Grapes from the estate J McK Vineyard are joined by fruit from vineyards such as Bismark, Dutton Ranch, Landa, Sangiacomo Roberts Road and Wildcat Mountain, giving Wilson diversity and depth in her winemaking options.

Anaba’s new Vintners House tasting room is open 10:30 a.m. – 5 p.m. Thursday – Monday.

62 Bonneau Road, Sonoma, 707-346-5207, anabawines.com

In 2009, Anaba Wines became the first winery in Northern California to utilize wind to help power operations. (Los Heffernans Photography)

Nalle Winery

Forty-some years ago, Doug and Lee Nalle wanted a cave for the Dry Creek Valley winery they were building on land owned by Lee’s family, the Henderlongs, since the 1920s. The property was planted to zinfandel, and many of the vines remain today. But the site wasn’t conducive to digging a wine cave, so the Nalles did the next best thing — they covered their ground-level, Quonset hut-style winery with dirt 3 to 6 feet thick, planted 300 rosemary plants to keep the soil in place and voila, they had an above-ground cave which kept a constant cool temperature without using any energy.

As a bonus, the rosemary blooms invited busy bees — and still do — which assist in the pollination of non-grape plants (grapevines are self-pollinating) that add nitrogen and nutrients to the soil. Bees also protect beneficial insects from the destructive ones.

From the start, the Nalles stuck to their mantra of making zinfandels that were balanced and fresh-tasting, with the grape’s signature intense berry/cherry fruit character, yet without high alcohol and sweetness. Now the couple’s son, Andrew Nalle, and his wife, April, handle the winemaking and viticulture while upholding the original Nalle style. Their Estate Old Vine Zinfandel comes from the dry-farmed (no irrigation), head-trained vines. The Dry Creek Valley Classic Zinfandel is a blend of estate and neighboring vines. Both clock in at just 13.9% alcohol.

Over time, the Nalle family added sauvignon blanc, sparkling chardonnay, pinot noir and cabernet sauvignon to their lineup, all in small quantities and available only at the winery and a handful of restaurants. Taste these beauties and some history at the oddball, ahead-of-its-time eco-friendly winery, open 10 a.m. – 4 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

2383 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-1040, nallewinery.com

Outdoor tasting at Nalle Winery in Healdsburg. (Heidi Adler)

Quivira Vineyards

Organic farming is but one of many ecologically sound steps this Dry Creek Valley winery takes in the production of its wines. Winemaker Hugh Chappelle has a gift for producing vibrant sauvignon blanc — as many as four different bottlings in a given vintage — and rousing zinfandels. Grenache and other Rhone Valley varietals are other specialties.

On the ranch, composting of winery pomace (leftover grape skins and seeds) and estate livestock manure adds nutrients to the soils, as do cover crops in the gardens and vineyards. Creeks and riparian corridors that run through the property enhance diversity; ongoing restoration of Wine Creek allows coho salmon and steelhead trout to thrive during spawning season. All vineyard preparation materials are grown on the estate. Nine breeds of chickens, fed from the garden waste, produce eggs, and beehives encourage pollination of produce grown in the raised garden beds and elsewhere on the property. A solar electric system has supplied more than half of Quivira’s energy needs since 2005, a prescient move that is increasingly being replicated by other wineries.

Olive oils and jams made from estate-grown berries, peaches and Meyer lemons are sold in the tasting room, open 11 a.m. – 4 p.m. Thursday – Monday. The Classic Tasting includes five wines; the Estate Tasting offers six wines, served with charcuterie and other bites.

4900 West Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-395-3929, quivirawine.com

Ridge Lytton Springs

Old-vine zinfandel is the raison d’être at Ridge Lytton Springs, the Sonoma outpost of Ridge Vineyards in the Santa Cruz Mountains — maker of one of the world’s most respected cabernet sauvignons, Ridge Monte Bello.

The zins from Ridge Lytton Springs — more than a dozen of them from grapes grown throughout the state but weighted toward Alexander, Dry Creek and Sonoma valleys — are equally admired. They are remarkably balanced, without an alcoholic fruit bomb among them, and have a reputation for aging beautifully. John Olney makes the wines at Ridge’s eco-sustainable winery on Lytton Springs Road, located between Healdsburg and Geyserville.

The facility is built of straw bales and vineyard clay and is primarily solar-powered. Ridge is the largest grower of organically certified grapes in Sonoma County, and all the vineyards it farms are certified sustainable by Fish Friendly Farming. Composted pomace and neighbors’ horse manure are added to the vineyards. Cover crops are grown in each block, insectories are maintained, sensors indicate when to irrigate vines in order to save water and gray water from the property is recycled and can be used for irrigation. Bird boxes and raptor roosts encourage the presence of flying bug and rodent eaters.

In addition, Ridge lists on its labels all ingredients used in the production of each wine. On the label for the 2018 Pagani Ranch Sonoma Valley Zinfandel: “Hand-harvested grapes, indigenous yeast, naturally occurring malolactic bacteria, oak from barrel aging, SO2.” And nothing else.

Taste single-vineyard, zinfandel-based wines such as Geyserville, Lytton Springs and Pagani at the Outdoor Terrace tasting, 11 a.m. – 4 p.m. Thursday – Monday. It’s a seated experience that might also include petite sirah, carignane, mataro (mourvedre) and if one is lucky, a Ridge cabernet sauvignon.

650 Lytton Springs Road, Healdsburg, 408-867-3233, ridgewine.com/visit/lytton-springs

Truett-Hurst/VML Winery

Paul Dolan, who sparked Fetzer Vineyards’ massive move to organically farmed grapevines starting two decades ago, retired from the Mendocino County company in 2004 and embarked on several wine-based projects, among them Truett-Hurst in Sonoma’s Dry Creek Valley. The estate, certified for both its organic and biodynamic farming practices, ticks all the sustainability boxes for what a winery can do to care for its vines and environment.

At Truett-Hurst, biodynamic farming includes organic practices and treats the farm as a self-contained and self-sustaining organism capable of creating and maintaining its own vitality. Hedgerows and other plants create safe homes for beneficial bugs that prey on those that damage grapevines and other plants. Compost, made onsite from pomace and cow manure, adds fertility to the soils. Crimson clover, purple vetch, bell beans, peas and oats are grown in the vineyard rows; they pull carbon from the air and send it through the plants’ roots into the ground and feed grazing goats and sheep during the dormant season. Their droppings become nutrient-rich fertilizer.

According to Dolan, Truett-Hurst also works with government agencies to restore the portion of Dry Creek that flows through the estate.

Winemaker Ross Reedy bottles an array of wines, including sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, pinot noir, zinfandel, merlot and cabernet sauvignon. He also guides winemaking for sister brand VML, which excels in sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and pinot noir. Both brands are poured at the tasting room, which is open 10 a.m. – 4 p.m. daily for by-the-glass and bottle sales (no tastings). Picnicking is encouraged, with the purchase of wine.

5610 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-9545, truetthurstwinery.com

Owners of Single Thread Restaurant Purchase Noci Farm in Healdsburg

November 2020

By Heather Irwin

Chef de cuisine Aaron Koseba harvests purple frill mustard greens from the rooftop garden at SingleThread Farms Restaurant in Healdsburg. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Kyle and Katina Connaughton of the Michelin-starred Single Thread in Healdsburg have purchased a 24-acre farm in the Dry Creek Valley with their business partner, Tony Greenberg, and Bill Price of Price Family Vineyards & Estates. The price tag: $3.72 million — something of a steal considering that the farm was originally listed at $5.5 million.

The farm site was previously home to Noci Sonoma, a luxe agricultural space with fairytale gardens, a state-of-the-art test kitchen and lounge and a membership model that drew city dwellers seeking an idyllic escape. Noci Sonoma had some early success but the owners, Chris and Aria Alpert Adjanis, struggled with permitting for large-scale events and, after recent fires and the pandemic, decided to put the property up for auction.

The Connaughtons, who currently manage a 5-acre farm in Healdsburg from which they source ingredients for Single Thread, have quietly been planning an expanded farm, gardens and educational space focused on sustainable agriculture and biodiversity. They are calling their recently purchased land their “forever home.”

“I have long had a vision to create a shared space in support of vibrant ecology on our forever home, and for that land to serve not only an agricultural purpose but a community and educational purpose as well,” Katina Connaughton said.

Katina Connaughton at her Healdsburg farm. (John Troxell)

During the pandemic and wildfires, the Connaughtons have worked closely with Price to support local nonprofits and agencies, such as the Council on Aging, Corazon Healdsburg, Farm to Pantry and Sonoma Family Meal, who are feeding residents in need. All three envision the new farm as more than just a source of produce for Single Thread. (Editor’s note: Heather Irwin is the founder of Sonoma Family Meal.)

“I want to help them (the Connaughtons) realize their larger vision of being agricultural stewards of Sonoma County and provide them with this ability and space to grow beyond what their needs are at Single Thread,” Price said.

Katina Connaughton hopes to also add a workshop component, floral design and retail sales along with mushroom production to the new farm.

“My farming team and I are excited to share our knowledge of regenerative agricultural practices with other farmers, especially new farmers starting their careers,” she said. “We envision a learning space for those who want to deepen their relationship with their food system and strengthen their craft.”

You can see a video of the property and pictures of the buildings and kitchen at 2836drycreekrd.com.

Santa Rosa Restaurant with Sushi-Go Round Opens

November 2020

By Heather Irwin

The latest from Sonoma County’s dining scene:

Ippinn Sushi

Great news! Santa Rosa finally has a sushi-go round. The bad news? You can’t actually use it or the race-car sushi track until indoor seating is allowed again. However, you can order some impressive “utility” sushi from this newcomer in the Santa Rosa Junior College neighborhood. By “utility,” I mean Wednesday afternoon California rolls, veggie tempura and tonkatsu ramen with a girlfriend rather than Friday night, once-in-a-blue-moon break-the-bank sushi with Daiginjo sake. In my world, both are equally important. Ippinn Sushi is a sister restaurant to the nearby Ippin Udon. 1985 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-800-7699, ippinnsushi.com.

Mateo’s Cocina Latina

It’s been years since I’ve whiled away an afternoon drinking margaritas in Healdsburg. OK, maybe weeks, but it’s worth checking out Mateo’s back patio for fresh fruit margaritas and luxe dishes including pork belly with a honey serrano glaze ($11.75) or a high-end nacho platter with duck, fresh tostadas, shredded jack cheese, seasonal salsa and house-cured jalapeños. Chef Mateo Granados uses lots of locally sourced ingredients, and his Yucatan-inspired dishes raise the bar on Mexican cuisine in Sonoma County. 214 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-433-1520, mateoscocinalatina.com.

Grata Restaurant Serves Up Family-Friendly Classics in Windsor

November 2020

By Heather Irwin

Gnudi with butternut squash and sage at Grata Restaurant in Windsor. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

We drank wine. We gossiped. We shared dishes. We watched the sun set. We ate way too much. And most importantly, we laughed and laughed and laughed.

That’s exactly the idea behind Grata just off the Windsor Town Square. With a large outdoor patio, chef-owners Eric and Christina Foster wanted a festive local gathering spot with family-friendly, approachable Italian classics and a convivial atmosphere. Done and done.

A longtime chef for Stark Reality Restaurants group, Eric Foster is no stranger to bustling, high-volume restaurants and knows how to get out orders quickly and efficiently with minimal staff, something most first-time restaurateurs struggle to master. Foster also knows plenty about creating bold flavors, like his meaty sea scallops with sweet-sour apple agrodolce and chive sweet potatoes.

At Grata, you can go simple by sticking to hearty appetizers like the creamy Grata Burrata ($12) with a smear of preserved lemon honey, pesto, teardrop peppers and grilled bread or crispy arancini with marinara sauce ($11). Or you can dive into comfort carbs that include smoked salmon carbonara ($22) and a hearty risotto with Parmesan stock and grilled maitake mushrooms ($19). If you’re feeling extra hungry, Grata’s change up seasonally, including wine-braised beef short rib ($28) with creamy polenta and halibut piccata with lemon and white wine ($24).

Our three favorite dishes, however, were Shawnees Shrimp Diavolo ($24), Ricotta Gnudi ($19) and the ridiculously decadent Ricotta Zeppoli ($9).

Unlike most spicy shrimp dishes, this diavolo isn’t as much about heat as it is about full-flavored marinated shrimp with a deep flavor of tart tomato conserva and olive oil atop spaghetti noodles.

Ricotta gnudi ($19, and yes, it’s pronounced “nudie”) could be a wallflower of a dish, but in Foster’s hands it becomes the belle of the ball with brown butter-soaked ricotta dumplings, seasonal butternut squash, hazelnuts and basil. It’s definitely worth going back for, along with the warm ricotta donut holes served with a Nutella chocolate dip so delicious you’ll wish you were a kid again just so you could lick the bowl.

Grata’s lunch menu features many of the same appetizers as dinner, along with oysters, a chicken Parmesan sandwich and the ridiculously delicious-sounding PBLT, a pork belly, butter lettuce, tomato and Calabrian chili aioli sandwich ($13).

Lunch and dinner, 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Thursday through Monday. 186 Windsor River Road, Windsor, 707-620-0508, gratawindsor.com.

Sonoma’s Artefact Design and Salvage Reopens in Pop-Up Shop

November 2020

By Karen Kizer

It was sad news for Sonoma shoppers when Artefact Design and Salvage permanently closed their storefront in August after 17 years at Cornerstone Sonoma. The store housed a unique collection of new, salvaged, rare, exquisite and weird design items. Where would we now find decorative blobs of glass and gnarled tree branches to hang on a wall, or a giant chair made from teak root?

But in late October, Artefact proprietor and curator, David Allen, announced on social media that a new store was popping up. The business opened a week later on Sonoma’s Fremont Avenue.

On display at this new more intimate space are Allen’s patented ARTEFACTcurator Wall Mounts — wall panels studded with brass screws that can hold decorative pieces like branches, flowers, vases and framed art. Wool blankets from Spain, cork purses, air plants and staghorn ferns are also available.

Allen’s new pop-up store should not disappoint those in search of the big, bold and eccentric. The entrance is flanked with terracotta heads of Bacchus and Maenad, which were previously perched on the roof of the Vanderbuilt Hotel in New York City. The heads were removed from the hotel due to safety concerns, and Allen saw to it that they made their way across the country. Outside the store, a yard houses oversized pieces like the decorative top of a massive column and a giant limestone seal from Philadelphia. Allen travels the US by truck in search of rare finds—Pennsylvania has become one of his favorite places for old architectural pieces that become available during demolitions.

If you’re not in the market for giant finds, there’s lots of little things to love at the Artefact pop-up store, and gifts items will be making an appearance before the holidays.

Speaking of holidays, it will be interesting to see what will become of the three hundred plastic snowmen that Allen would arrange in creative formations at Cornerstone Sonoma each year. Judging by the surprise element in his design and curation choices, we’re guessing (hoping) Allen will drop more zany decorative fun.

Artefact Design and Salvage, 27 Fremont Drive, Sonoma, 707-933-0660, artefactdesignsalvage.com, Open Wednesday through Sunday 12 p.m. – 6 p.m.

7 Cozy Holiday Gifts from The Barlow

November 2020

By Karen Kizer

Inflatable ghosts and pumpkins have just been packed away, which, pre-pandemic, would signal it’s time to think turkey and gatherings. But since medical advice is to keep gatherings virtual or very small this year, now could be a good time to focus on early holiday shopping instead. By starting your holiday shopping early, you’ll have more time to ship gifts to family and friends and local businesses will appreciate an early kick-off to the holidays.

The Barlow in Sebastopol offers a range of options for the savvy holiday shopper. The former apple cannery now houses workshop and retail spaces where talented makers produce and sell their unique wares. Visitors to The Barlow can also enjoy drinks and bites from tasting rooms and restaurants. If you prefer to shop online, that can be done, too.

Click through the above gallery for some locally-made or designed gifts we found at The Barlow that are so cozy and “so Sonoma.”