Cars parked by Sonoma Plaza in downtown Sonoma, flanked by historical buildings. (Michael Vi / Getty Images)
John Toulze of The Girl & The Fig has confirmed that he and founder Sondra Bernstein are taking over the lease of a longtime Sonoma restaurant. At first, the exact location remained a closely guarded secret — until the restaurant itself dropped an important announcement.
On Aug. 22, Maya Restaurant posted on its Facebook page that it will close after 28 years in business. “Fig will be taking over the space at the end of September,” the post stated.
The Facebook post went on to show support for the upcoming restaurant and announced Maya’s final day of service, Sept. 21. The Sonoma restaurant is located at 101 E. Napa St.
Truite du Mont. Lassen with romano beans, fingerling potatoes, romesco sauce and toasted almonds from Poppy restaurant Thursday, June 12, 2025, in Glen Ellen. Chef and restaurateur John Toulze announced he and The Girl & The Fig founder Sondra Bernstein will open a new restaurant in Sonoma later this year. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
The news follows the June debut of Poppy in Glen Ellen, the freshest sprout on The Girl & The Fig’s ever-growing family tree.
While the concept for the new venture is still in development, Toulze hints at a late 2025 opening. Consider this your first taste — more delicious details to come.
Chef Mark Miller prepares his entry for the Lord of Rice competition at Kendall-Jackson Wine Estate and Gardens in Santa Rosa on Thursday, September 19, 2024. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
Six chefs. Six judges. And a whole lot of rice.
Windsor’s Grata Eatery will host the highly anticipated return of the “Lord of Rice” competition on Sept. 10, featuring a diverse array of rice-focused dishes from top chefs.
Whether it’s arancini, risotto, sushi or sticky, competing chefs — Paul Schroeder (a past winner from Jackson Family Wines), reigning champion Mark Miller (Underwood Bar & Bistro), Eric Foster (Grata), Robert “Buttercup” Nieto (Fleur Sauvage), Barbara Hom (private chef) and Jay Veregge (Cutthroat Club, Idaho) — all have “the rice stuff.”
Chef Mark Miller’s Lord of the Rice competition winner: Nam Khao Tod, Lao-Thai Crispy Rice Salad with the popular Pineapple Express cocktail with a sprig of Thai basil Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024, from Underwood Bar and Bistro in Graton. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
The winner will be crowned Lord of Rice and awarded a trip to the 2025 International World Rice Conference in Phnom Penh, Cambodia, where they will serve as a judge in the “World’s Best Rice” competition.
Attendees will have the chance to sample each competing dish, along with passed appetizers from Grata. Young chefs from the Analy High School Culinary Program will collaborate with the competing chefs, gaining hands-on experience.
Tickets are $50 per person and can be purchased on Eventbrite.
Pancakes from the North, features thin Swedish pancakes, lingonberries and vanilla cream, maple syrup, and butter, at Baked on the River in Guerneville on Thursday, August 7, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
When Guerneville’s Baked on the River cafe closed in late 2024, it felt like the end of a dream for chef and owner Helena Gustavsson Giesea. She had given up her lease with plans to relocate but when the new location fell through, she was left without a clear path forward. With no other option, she packed up her kitchen and put her equipment in storage.
“It was tough to pack up without knowing where we would be,” said Gustavsson Giesea, who opened Baked on the River in 2018.
As word of her plight spread, offers for new spaces rolled in, from Napa Valley to the Sonoma Coast. But there was one offer she couldn’t refuse — the R3 Hotel.
“It was my top choice and it felt like coming home to a family,” said the Swedish-born chef.
Baked on the River owner and chef Helena Gustavsson Giesea in Guerneville on Thursday, Aug. 7, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
The quirky cafe inside the LGBTQ+ hotel had long been a local hangout for guests and residents alike (it was formerly Betty Spaghetti and later the Rio Café). With a turnkey kitchen, the space was ready to reopen as the new Baked on the River — and did so in just 10 days.
In late May, Gustavsson Giesea opened her doors and has been busy crafting and recrafting the menu ever since — a process that fuels her creativity, she said.
The place
The R3 Hotel has a long history as a social hub, dating back to the town’s cultural transformation in the 1980s, when it became a popular summer retreat for gay and lesbian travelers from around the Bay Area. Originally built as a motor lodge in the 1940s, the hotel has undergone several renovations but retains much of its original character.
Baked on the River sits just inside the hotel entrance, with windows overlooking a private, fenced-in pool area. Hotel guests provide a built-in clientele for poolside dining and room service, but the cafe is open to the public. While much of the resort is 21+, the restaurant is family-friendly.
Interior dining area of Baked on the River at the R3 Hotel in Guerneville on Thursday, Aug. 7, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)Baked on the River is located at the R3 Hotel in Guerneville on Thursday, Aug. 7, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
Inside, glass doors and windows block out most of the poolside music, though the tile floors and bare walls inside could use some soundproofing — something Gustavsson Giesea said she is working on, along with finishing the decor. Cheerful, sun-kissed tables are scattered throughout the restaurant.
The food
A longtime chef and baker, Gustavsson Giesea previously operated two other Guerneville restaurant ventures: Charizma Wine Lounge & Deli on Main Street and a kitchen at the former Whitetail Wine Bar. Both, she said, were a little ahead of their time. Since opening Baked on the River, she’s weathered two floods, two fires and a pandemic, maintaining her optimism and loyal customer base through it all.
The restaurant has given her a chance to stretch her culinary wings, with a menu that spans barbecue, baked fish and burgers.
“I love to create dishes in my head and I want my food to be complex, but in a simple way,” she said.
Best bets
Brunch
Pancakes from the North, features thin Swedish pancakes, lingonberries and vanilla cream, maple syrup, and butter, at Baked on the River in Guerneville on Thursday, Aug. 7, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
Brunch is offered 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Thursday through Sunday. On my first visit at 10 a.m. on a Sunday, the restaurant was nearly empty, but by 11 a.m., it was packed inside and out — lazy weekends start late here.
Gustavsson Giesea leans into her Swedish heritage on many dishes, but her Pancakes from the North ($18) are a must-try. These thin Swedish pancakes (think sweet crepes) are served with a hearty dollop of vanilla whipped cream, lingonberry jam, butter and syrup.
Groovy Sconed and Gravy, featuring crispy bacon-cheddar scones in creamy gravy with a soft egg, at Baked on the River in Guerneville on Thursday, Aug. 7, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
Scones are a specialty here, and the Groovy Sconed & Gravy ($18) is a standout with bacon and cheddar, smothered with creamy vegetarian gravy that’s as good as the sausage kind. (Many dishes are available vegetarian and gluten-free.)
Savory brunch options include Avocado Toast ($18) with an herby guacamole, soft egg and seeded bread; Frittata with Swedish Meatballs ($20); and a hearty Hash in a Pan ($22) with chicken sausage, pancetta, poached egg and potatoes.
Dinner
Dinner is offered 5-9 p.m. Thursday through Sunday. You’re here for the award-winning salmon chowder and barbecue.
The rich, creamy chowder ($9 cup, $18 bowl) is a Double Gold Harvest Fair Winner for a reason. Flecks of salmon and diced potatoes swim in a thick chowder seasoned with white pepper and herbs. Not too thick, not too thin — just right.
Salmon Chowder, featuring wild king salmon, potatoes, and vegetables, at Baked on the River in Guerneville on Thursday, Aug. 7, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)BBQ Apple Pork Ribs Plate at Baked on the River in Guerneville on Thursday, Aug. 7, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
I was skeptical that a baker could pull off decent barbecue, but Gustavsson Giesea does. The fall-off-the-bone pork ribs ($32) are applewood smoked, grilled and baked with an apple glaze. Served with warm German-style potato salad, applesauce and slaw, it’s my favorite entrée. Smoked brisket and pulled pork are also excellent.
Mahi-mahi ($28) is a new menu item, served with grilled pineapple, butternut squash and green beans. Traditional Swedish meatballs and mashed potatoes ($26) are also available gluten-free or vegetarian.
For dessert, the chewy Mocha Cake ($10) — Gustavsson Giesea’s take on a Swedish brownie — is delightful with a crisp edge, vanilla whipped cream and berry sauce.
Baked on the River is at 16390 Fourth St., Guerneville. 707-865-6060, bakedontheriver.com
Joanna Grawunder and Mark Jensen built a modern, multilevel Russian River retreat in the footprint of a dilapidated Depression-era cabin. (Joe Fletcher / for Sonoma Magazine)
House hunter Joanna Grawunder’s first impression of the property at the base of Healdsburg’s Fitch Mountain was horror and a hard no. As she and husband Mark Jensen were scouting out weekend home possibilities along the Russian River in 2012, she recoiled as they approached one listing.
“I was screaming at him. Don’t stop! Just go!” she recalls. But her husband who had a hunch there might be more than meets the eye, insisted they have a look.
“As soon as we walked in — and we made sure not to fall through the floor or step on a rat — we saw this. It was so amazing,” she says, looking out from her deck at a gobsmacking stretch of the river where the water at this time of year pools calmly against a palisade of trees in the early evening sun.
The couple’s multilevel home in Healdsburg along the Russian River is filled with simple charm. (Joe Fletcher / for Sonoma Magazine)
That view is what sold them on a ramshackle house with numerous funky additions, that had been abandoned for two years. Pretty much anything that could be wrong with it was, from septic problems to termites.
“Being two crazy architects, we thought, nice view, nice location. We can solve all these problems,” says Jensen. He was propelled by fond memories of spending hot summer days on the Russian River with his dad, who moved to Healdsburg in the 1970s and still lives on the other side of the mountain.
When the couple went to county offices to research the property, they discovered it had a long list of violations. “They told us 20 other people did the same thing we did,” Jensen says, “and just ran for the hills.”
But Jensen knew the location was a jewel. While they never would be allowed to build a new house so close to the river, they could create something new on the foundation and footprint of the old Depression-era summer cabin. It took two years getting permits and two more years to build before they were finally able to move in eight years ago.
Joanna Grawunder and Mark Jensen built a modern, multilevel Russian River retreat in the footprint of a dilapidated Depression-era cabin. (Joe Fletcher / for Sonoma Magazine)
The effort and wait were worth it. The modest multilevel house made of simple board-and-batten siding and a concrete base evokes a farm building in the rural landscape and has proven remarkably comfortable despite — or perhaps because of — its simplicity. They love that it’s only a 2-mile walk to the Healdsburg Plaza and they’ve built up a solid network of friends, including one with a farm who frequently has amazing produce to share since they have little space to grow more than tomatoes, some espaliered apples, and some citrus trees.
“This was intended as our weekend getaway. But then, common story, Covid hit and we moved here full time and just got so enamored with the lifestyle we really didn’t ever want to leave,” says Jensen, who heads his own firm, Jensen Architects, in the city. “We still do have a small loft in San Francisco where I stay when I go in to work a couple of days a week, but the majority of the time we’re here.”
While little of the original structure remains, they were charmed by the steep, timeworn concrete steps leading down to the original dock. What they hadn’t noticed at first was the 20th-century Boho art embedded in the walls that terraced down to the river — decorative abalone shells, mirror and tile fragments, glass bottles, and small niches perfect for candles on a warm night.
The steep, timeworn concrete steps leading down to the deck. (Joe Fletcher / for Sonoma Magazine)
It was as thrilling as a major archaeological discovery when they unearthed it beneath a thick layer of sand.
“We didn’t even know we had those terraces,” Jensen says. “Once we started cleaning up, we always say it was like finding Pompeii.”
Digging sand and silt out of the terraces where they often hang out — closer to the river and the amusing parade of people in their floaties, inner tubes, kayaks, and canoes — has become an annual spring ritual. “We call it shovel camp. It’s fun,” Grawunder says.
The house is simple and open, with a winding staircase leading up to a bedroom loft where, in winter, the sunrise from a saddle in the hills is their alarm clock. Grawunder marvels at how, from this high perch, she can actually look down on great blue herons, bald eagles, and osprey patrolling the river.
Most of the casual furnishings are indoor-outdoor, so they can be moved outside for entertaining. Although the whole house is only 1,100 square feet, a wide deck with wing walls on either side and a retractable awning extends the living space in summer. The mini kitchen is confined to just one wall but sufficient for cooking, even for the frequent guests who, in summer, often arrive by kayak and canoe.
The home’s light, bright, and simple decor reflects the couple’s appreciation of modern art and design, including a dining room table made by a famous Italian design collective known for its grid patterns. (Joe Fletcher / for Sonoma Magazine)
But there are a few Fabergé-quality Easter eggs embedded within the simple decor that speak to the couple’s deep appreciation for modern art and design. Their dining table, with a playful grid pattern, is a focal piece, created by Superstudio, a famed Italian design collective founded in the 1960s by Adolfo Natalini and Christiano Toraldo di Francia, under whom Grawunder once studied and worked.
She and Jensen met while studying abroad in Florence during their last year of architectural courses at Cal Poly San Luis Obispo. Grawunder stayed in Italy for many years — she still maintains a tiny apartment in Milan where she continues to work with galleries — and moved into artistic design, from limited edition furnishings to modern lighting and color installations. One of her pieces, a striking acrylic mirror light, looks like a window high on the white walls of the open concept living space.
The pair love observing all the seasons from their snug nest. In winter they can sit in an alcove cantilevered off the living room and watch the rushing water.
But summer is when the river slows and the living is easy. They frequently entertain, starting out at the dock with drinks and moving up to the covered deck for dinner.
The couple’s home on the Russian River is filled with simple charm, such as the rope with a basket dubbed the “Italian grandmother elevator” they use to transport food to guests. (Joe Fletcher / for Sonoma Magazine)
“But on warm evenings, I end up bringing the dinner down there,” Grawunder says. A rope with a basket dubbed the “Italian grandmother elevator” helps transport pasta and pizza to guests below. There is a casual camaraderie along the river, where the waterway is a country road linking neighbors.
“It’s not like it’s hot every night. But when it stays warm in the evening, it’s great to be down there,” Jensen says. “There are varying degrees of impromptu and planned interactions because sometimes people just paddle by and invite themselves to come ashore.” The pair are ready with free refreshments.
“We have this long paddle,” Grawunder adds with a chuckle. “Sometimes we hand out Negronis. They don’t even have to get out of the boat if they don’t want to.”
Do you — or someone you know — have a beautiful home with a story to tell? Whether it’s big or small, rural or suburban, Sonoma magazine wants to showcase what makes your slice of Sonoma County special. Email us at editors@sonomamag.com and share your story.
Pavillion. (Paul Rollins / Sotheby’s International Realty)
A newly built Napa estate on 6 acres of vineyard is currently listed for $26,500,000 — the second highest listing price in the region. The eight-bedroom, 10-bathroom, 10,500-square-foot dwelling sits below the Mayacamas Mountains and Stags’ Leap Palisades on the former Trubody Ranch, which began in 1897 cultivating orchards, grain and, eventually, vineyards.
The luxury Napa home consists of a group of longhouse-like structures — some connected by corridors, while others are freestanding. The steep pitch and weathered-wood siding is a fresh iteration of modern farmhouse design. The effect is an effortless style that sits gently in the tranquil vineyard.
Great room. (Paul Rollins / Sotheby’s International Realty)Fitness room. (Paul Rollins / Sotheby’s International Realty)
The listing described the home as having a wellness-forward design ethos. A fitness pavilion, cold-plunge pool and infra-red sauna are some of the included amenities. But the breathtaking setting, accessible through the home’s many retractable glass doors, likely makes a sense of wellness a forgone conclusion.
The property also includes a two-room guest house, a pool house, an infinity pool and spa, raised gardens beds, and a loggia for outdoor cooking and dining.
For more information on this luxury home at 5434 Trubody Lane in Napa, contact listing agent Hillary Ryan, 707-312-2105, 707-224-8000, Sotheby’s International Realty- St. Helena Brokerage, sothebysrealty.com
Patate e Porchetta pizza from L’Oro di Napoli Friday, February 28, 2025, at their second location in Petaluma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Amid a whirlwind year of restaurant openings, everything’s coming up roses for the city of Petaluma. And national publications are taking note. In a recent article, food review site Mashed named the Gold Rush-era town a “must-visit food destination.”
Of course, this is no news to Sonoma County residents, who have enjoyed Petaluma’s farm-fresh cuisine since it gained the designation as the World’s Egg Basket 100 years ago — resulting in an annual Egg Day Parade that still marches on to this day.
But lately, it seems the rest of the nation has finally embraced the charming wonders of Sonoma County’s historic gem of a town. In June, CNN named Petaluma among the best towns to visit in the U.S., describing it as “a riverfront farm-to-table paradise.”
Petaluma restaurants to try
Branzino in Crosta, grilled potato wrapped sea bass with cherry tomatoes in a lemon white wine sauce from L’Oro di Napoli Friday, Feb. 28, 2025, in Petaluma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)Strawberry Tart with strawberry compote, vanilla cream, mint strawberry sorbet and meringue from Bijou Monday, July 1, 2025, in Petaluma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
The Mashed article cited a number of essential Petaluma restaurants to try, from historic community staples to beloved modern fusion eateries.
Dining at Brewsters Beer Garden in Petaluma. (Sonoma County Tourism)Meatballs and mashed potatoes at Stockhome restaurant in Petaluma. (newrevmedia.com)
Those looking for a more unique dining experience should try the Swedish and Middle Eastern cuisine at Stockhome (220 Western Ave.), where Mashed recommended dishes like fried halloumi and wiener schnitzel. Among Petaluma’s newcomers, L’Oro Di Napoli (208 Petaluma Blvd. N.) was named for providing a high-end dining experience with “exquisitely crafted dishes” like risotto and grilled seabass.
For more favorite restaurants in the foodie haven of Petaluma, check here.
This circa-1936 two-bedroom, two-bathroom Cazadero home is currently listed for $513,200. (John Genovese)
There’s much to love about a circa-1936 Cazadero home that’s currently listed for $513,200. With two bedrooms and one-and-a-half bathrooms, the 908-square-foot cottage — referred to as the “Cazadero Love Nest” — sits on .18 acres nestled in redwoods.
A great-room layout offers light and openness in the kitchen and living room. Views of trees are in good supply here. There’s an eat-in kitchen counter as well as a separate dining room, also with redwood views.
Kitchen in the Cazadero cottage. (John Genovese)Patio at the Cazadero cottage, surrounded by redwoods. (John Genovese)
An updated bathroom with pine paneling and marble herringbone tiles combines cozy and stylish vibes. Downstairs bedrooms have direct access to the yard that offers a full forest bath. There’s also a detached studio, garage and workshop area.
For more information on this home at 5600 Austin Creek Road, Cazadero, contact listing agents Richard Lester, 707-303-6358, John Genovese, 415-407-8796, The City Country Group at Vanguard Properties, mycitycountry.com
Eggnog Waffles with Brandy Butter Saturday, December 7, 2024. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
While the United States celebrates National Waffle Day on Aug. 24, International Waffle Day is held March 25, celebrating the worldwide love of the sweet breakfast food. But the annual foodie holiday reportedly began as a misunderstanding.
First, the origin of the waffle
According to Smithsonian Magazine, the waffle dates back to ancient Greece, where Athenians roasted flat cakes called obelios between two hot metal plates.
Later adapted to the French oublies during the Middle Ages, the edible discs typically depicted Biblical scenes and religious iconography, as they served as a sort of communion wafer, eaten after meals as a symbolic blessing. Made of simple grain flour and water, the food was commonplace among all walks of society throughout Europe by the 13th century.
As cooks gained access to different ingredients and spices, the recipe of the wafer changed over time, transforming into a delicacy called a gaufre or wafel. Eventually, the treat traveled around the world, picking up new names, flavors and designs.
So how did Waffle Day start?
While the first iterations of the waffle gained popularity as a communion wafer, Waffle Day began with a Christian holiday, the Feast of Annunciation or the Day of Our Lady. Typically held on March 25, it commemorates the moment archangel Gabriel told Mary she would give birth to God’s son.
Waffle – the food – has little to do with this celebration but its name, in Swedish, apparently made March 25 the designated day for waffles, all due to a misunderstanding, according to tourism website Visit Sweden. In Sweden, the Feast of Annunciation is called “Vårfrudagen” (the Day of Our Lady), which sounds very similar to “våffeldagen,” which means the waffle day.
Over time, it became tradition to eat waffles on March 25, and soon Waffle Day was celebrated all across Europe. And while the U.S. has its own National Waffle Day on Aug. 24 — coinciding with the patenting of the first American waffle iron in 1869, invented by Cornelius Swarthout of Troy, New York — it doesn’t hurt to celebrate the treat at least twice a year.
A variety of waffles from around the world include the fluffy Brussels-style Belgian waffle; Sweden’s crispy, heart-shaped waffles; the thin, cookie-like Dutch stroopwafels; the fish-shaped Japanese taiyaki waffles; the green Vietnamese pandan waffle; the savory, U.K.-based potato waffles and many more.
No need to travel the world to find a hot plate of delicious waffles. Here’s the best of the sweet breakfast treat in Sonoma County to celebrate International Waffle Day on March 25, America’s National Waffle Day on Aug. 24, or any day of the year.
Berry granola waffles from Sunflower Caffe in Sonoma. (Sunflower Caffe)
Sunflower Caffe
The rotating seasonal menu currently offers a passion fruit coconut waffle — a buttermilk waffle topped with passion fruit curd, Chantilly cream, toasted coconut and organic Vermont maple syrup. A gluten-free oat waffle can be subbed for $2. 421 First St. West, Sonoma, 707-996-6645, sonomasunflower.com
Belgian waffles are on the menu at Verano Cafe in Sonoma. (Robbi Pengelly/Index-Tribune)
Verano Cafe
The Sonoma cafe offers a Belgian buttermilk waffle topped with seasonal fruit, whipped cream and syrup. Or, spring for a classic waffle and fried chicken. 18976 Sonoma Highway, Sonoma, 707-931-6837, veranocafesonoma.com
Sax’s Joint
This 1950s-style diner has an extensive breakfast menu, including a handful of waffle dishes. Go for the classic chicken and waffles or take it next level with the spicy bacon cheddar waffle. Prefer a sweeter take on the morning treat? Delight your inner child with Baily Shay’s Cereal Waffle. 317 Petaluma Blvd. S., Petaluma, 707-559-3021, saxsjoint.com
Fried chicken and waffles at Sax’s Joint in Petaluma. (Chris Hardy/for Sonoma Magazine)The waffle with fresh strawberries served at the River Front Café in Petaluma. (Crissy Pascual/Petaluma Argus-Courier)
River Front Cafe
The riverside cafe’s Belgian waffle is topped with fresh strawberries, powdered sugar and whipped cream. 224 B St., Petaluma, 707-347-5147, riverfront.cafe
Mr. Stroopwafel
The Netherlands stroopwafel shop has a variety of the Dutch cookie-like waffle treat on its menu. The Original Stroop is a classic stroopwafel filled with caramel. Or go for one of the tantalizing signature stroopwafels, such as the chocowafel, strawberry drizzle and coconut crisp. 441 N. McDowell Blvd., Suite 24, Petaluma, mrstroopwafelusa.com
Cafe Mimosa
Cafe Mimosa serves waffles at all three of its locations — topped with berries, powdered sugar and mascarpone. 417 N. McDowell Blvd., Petaluma, 707-658-2795; 451 Rohnert Park Expressway, Rohnert Park, 707-595-3764; 456 College Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-293-9450, cafemimosaaa.com
Waffles with berries, powdered sugar and sweet mascarpone cheese from Cafe Mimosa in Rohnert Park. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)Chicken and waffle with Fresno chili at Beer Baron in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Beer Baron Bar & Kitchen
Take your bar bites to the next level with Beer Baron’s fried chicken and waffles, served with Fresno chili slaw, maple syrup and bacon butter. For dessert, try a churro waffle, topped with vanilla bean ice cream and sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar. 614 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-757-9294, beerbaronsr.com
Americana
A waffle, which can be made gluten-free, is served with housemade vanilla cider maple syrup, whipped cream and seasonal fruit. Available at both Santa Rosa and Sebastopol locations. 205 Fifth St., Suite A, Santa Rosa, 707-755-1548; 162 N. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-827-3309, americanasonomacounty.com
The Belgian waffle with strawberries and cream at the Howard Station Cafe in Occidental. (Beth Schlanker / Sonoma Magazine)
Howard Station Cafe
The locomotive-themed cafe in Occidental includes a variety of waffle dishes on its menu, from a simple Belgian waffle to more decadent versions like the chocolate chip and cream waffle. A favorite is the peaches and cream waffle. 3611 Bohemian Hwy., Occidental, 707-874-2838, howardstationcafe.com
Fandee’s Restaurant
Fandee’s waffle is served with chocolate sauce and fresh berries. Make it a meal (for an extra $6) with two eggs any style and two pieces of bacon or sausage. Waffle add-ons ($2 each) include banana, blueberries and chocolate chips. 7824 Covert Lane, Sebastopol, 707-829-2642, fandeesrestaurant.com
Savannah Banana Waffle with toasted pecans, banana and housemade molasses butter served with a mimosa at Cape Fear Cafe in Duncans Mills. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
Cape Fear Café
Offering California cuisine with a southern twist, Cape Fear Café has a handful of waffle dishes on its breakfast and brunch menus, all served with housemade molasses butter and hot syrup. Our go-to is the Savannah Banana Waffle, topped with toasted pecans and fresh sliced banana. 25191 Main St., Duncans Mills, 707-865-9246, capefearcafe.com
Saucy Mama’s Jook Joint
The cornbread waffle is the perfect accompaniment to the buttermilk fried chicken or spicy hot link. 16632 Highway 116, Guerneville, 707-604-7184, saucymamasjookjoint.com
Aged Tuna Crudo with in a watermelon reduction from Farmhouse Sonoma in the old Palms restaurant location Friday, May 9, 2025 in Sonoma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Sonoma has no shortage of dining destinations, but Farmhouse Sonoma has filled a niche for a long-needed casual, affordable, family-friendly spot in Sonoma Springs. When it opened in April, the spacious restaurant almost instantly became a community hub, where locals gather for meals, cocktails, and gossip.
Farmhouse is a change of pace for Sherpa, who came to California from Nepal in 1997 to attend college and culinary school. Instead of his signature Nepalese, Tibetan, and Indian cuisine, the menu here is brimming with classic American-Mediterranean fare like golden brioche French toast at breakfast, Cobb salad adorned with both blue cheese and ranch dressing, crisp fried calamari with saffron-lime aioli, and pastas made fresh daily.
Pappardelle Carbonara from Farmhouse Sonoma in the old Palms restaurant location Friday, May 9, 2025, in Sonoma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Together with chef Sonam Sherpa, Pemba has created dishes that are surprisingly refined for such a relaxed, reasonably priced hangout. (The two are unrelated, despite the same last name, which is common in the Himalayas where many work as climbing guides.)
Sherpa spent a year renovating the restaurant space, which previously housed the Palms Grill. The transformed dining room gleams with newly exposed high ceilings, a sophisticated cream-and-black color palette, and bamboo accents. Sherpa’s landlord, Justin Altamura, crafted the dramatic steeple-style foyer using old-growth redwood reclaimed from a barn once owned by his grandfather in Napa — a place where the famed racehorse Seabiscuit was known to vacation. Additional woodwork in the dining area was done by Sherpa’s cousin from New York.
A selection of wines at Farmhouse Sonoma in the old Palms restaurant space Friday, May 9, 2025 in Sonoma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)Farmhouse Sonoma in the old Palms restaurant space Friday, May 9, 2025, in Sonoma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Every visit here feels like a family affair. There are handshakes and hugs all around — from both regulars and new patrons as guests pause to greet Sherpa and his wife, Tenzin Yangchen, who helps at the restaurant in the evenings after her day job as a pharmacist.
Sherpa says the new restaurant exists because of the community. “We’ve been through it all — recessions, the pandemic, wildfires — and the reason we’re still in business is because of the locals.”
Best Bets
Grilled Branzino from Farmhouse Sonoma in the old Palms restaurant location Friday, May 9, 2025, in Sonoma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Tuna Crudo: Dry aging for 10 days results in tuna that is meltingly tender with concentrated flavor. It’s a generous portion with a refined finish that includes sake, watermelon, and calamansi.
Bruschetta: Topped with burrata and caramelized peach chutney that is delicious enough to eat straight from a jar with a spoon.
Pappardelle Carbonara: Pasta is made fresh from scratch, then tossed with salty pancetta, English peas, wild mushrooms, and a delightfully rich cured egg-yolk sauce.
Grilled Branzino: Delicate whole herb-crusted fish is served tail-on and butterflied atop whipped potatoes then finished with grilled lemon and chimichurri.
Mike Zakowski, owner and baker of The Bejkr, sells his bread, scones, and fresh wood-fired pretzels Friday, May 23, 2025 at the Sonoma Farmer’s Market. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
The moment one walks through the door of Quail & Condor bakery in downtown Healdsburg, a sensual feast begins. The intoxicating, yeasty aromas of just-baked breads rocket straight from nose-to-brain, and then to belly as it responds with a powerful, hungry rumble.
These are no ordinary breads. These are handmade sourdough beauties kissed with startling tang — hearty sesame-seed epis hand-rolled into classic wheat stalk shapes, and slightly sour miche that’s fluffy inside and made with fresh-milled rye, spelt, and whole wheat. The bakery’s naturally leavened baguettes are so sexy, the long, slender loaves look as though they belong tucked alongside a colorful bouquet of flowers in the basket of a bike tootling along the Champs-Élysées.
Quail & Condor caught the attention of The New York Times this past December, putting the tiny shop on the list of “22 of the Best Bakeries Across the U.S. Right Now.” Then, in January, bakery owners Melissa and Sean McGaughey were named as semifinalists for the 2025 James Beard Outstanding Bakery Award.
Sesame-seed epis and naturally leavened baguettes at Quail & Condor in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
And yet, as wondrous as the accomplishments are, it can sometimes feel like just another day in Sonoma County — blessed with such a collection of outstanding family-owned bakeries, it might seem an embarrassment of riches.
But that inkling of too much privilege dissipates with that first bite of crunchy-chewy crust on Quail’s pain de campagne, the French country bread crafted with rye and whole wheat, folded in with tart olives, and even more exquisite when slathered with imported French butter.
Chef/co-owners Melissa Yanc McGaughey and Sean McGaughey and their team bake their New York Times heralded breads for Quail & Condor at their second Healdsburg restaurant, Troubadour Bread & Bistro, Wednesday, May 21, 2025. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
And that’s just one example. Sonoma County boasts Wild Flour Bread in Freestone; Nightingale Breads in Forestville; Red Bird Bakery in Cotati; Goguette Bread, Village Bakery, and Marla Bakery all in Santa Rosa, and the list goes on. Some specialize in wood-fired brick hearth ovens, some use rack ovens, some work out of home kitchens with cottage licenses. But all unite in one shared cause: to make the finest breads with artisanal flours and grains, wild yeasts, and hands-on love which includes long fermentations.
What is it about Sonoma County that makes it such a hotbed for bread? San Francisco’s sourdough bread is famous, with humidity said to play a crucial role in its fermentation and flavor, but does Sonoma County have its own magical secret factor?
Bakery owners Melissa Yanc McGaughey and Sean McGaughey and their team bake breads for Quail & Condor at their second Healdsburg restaurant, Troubadour Bread & Bistro. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
“That’s a really good question,” Melissa McGaughey muses. “There aren’t a ton of grain growers here. For me, it’s about the community and lifestyle, the energy and flow. I’ve only really lived in big cities, so I always thought that the small town of Healdsburg was a stepping-stone for me, but I found that all of Sonoma County is bustling. We’re big, but small — I love that I get to connect with so many people personally.”
Mike Zakowski agrees that it’s the mesmerizing vibe keeps him rooted. He competed for Team USA at the Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie in Paris in 2012, where the group won a silver medal. He could work anywhere across the globe.
Mike Zakowski, owner and baker of The Bejkr, sells wood-fired pretzels at the Sonoma Valley Certified Farmers Market. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Yet now, with his own The Bejkr business, he sells his mouthwatering goods at the Sonoma Valley Farmers Market year-round on Fridays at Depot Park on First Street West and during summer at the Sonoma Tuesday Night Market.
“I’ve made bread all over the world. I travel and I teach a lot. There’s good bread all over,” he says. “It’s the Sonoma weather that attracted me, actually. I’m from the Midwest originally and I’ve been here 18 years. It’s just such a stunning place to live.”
Mike Zakowski, owner and baker of The Bejkr, sells his bread, scones, and fresh wood-fired pretzels Friday, May 23, 2025, at the Sonoma Valley Certified Farmers Market. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
His breads, all artfully scored, are made of ancient, whole grains, sourced from local farms and stone milled. He mills his own specialty grains, too, such as emmer, spelt, ancient einkorn, California rye, and wheat.
He appreciates that he always finds great reception for even uncommon bread flavors like a loaf he makes with Khorasan (an ancient wheat variety), stone-milled rye, roasted sweet corn, jalapeño, cilantro, and kovasz keszites, a Hungarian-style sourdough starter.
Recently, after a tour of Japan, he’s been experimenting with even more flavors.
“I got reinspired to do some new things, like raisin water, which is an old French technique,” he says. “And I’m a matcha drinker, so I’m exploring green tea powder, adzuki beans, roasted soybeans, mochi, and rice in breads, and I’m making a shokupan now (pillowy-soft Japanese milk bread).”
The fact that so many Sonoma foodies are open to, and eager for, such interesting specialties is a big incentive for creative bakers. For Lee Magner of cult-boutique Sonoma Mountain Breads, that’s been a big selling point keeping him here.
“It’s a community that really celebrates food across the board,” he says, of people who swarm his email to grab the 100 baguettes and 125 or so artisanal loaves he produces each week at his Sonoma Mountain home and farmstand. “Craftsmanship is also really celebrated here, and people understand that making bread is definitely a labor of love.”
Sonoma Mountain Bread owner Lee Magner bakes small batches of bread out of a barn in the hills above Penngrove Friday, May 23, 2025. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
The local bread phenomenon was birthed at the turn of the last century, beginning with Franco American Bakery, which started in 1900, making the family-run business the oldest established bakery in the North Bay. The sourdough starter is the same as it was 125 years ago, lovingly nurtured like the precious child it is. It was followed with downtown Healdsburg’s Costeaux French Bakery, founded in 1923, and still wowing with its seeded sourdough and feather-soft brioche.
More beautiful breads blossomed in 1994, when Kathleen Weber introduced us to artisanal loaves made with fine ingredients like organic flours, Brittany sea salt, local extra virgin olive oils, and instead of commercial yeast, a natural starter featuring her own Petaluma ranch-grown grapes.
Initially, she drew on her home-baked, Italian-style fermented fare, baked in a wood-burning oven. By 1995, the French Laundry demanded to be a customer, followed by more high-end restaurants such as Auberge du Soleil. Some might say that the local love truly took flight when Weber opened Della Fattoria in Petaluma in 2003, enchanting customers including Martha Stewart. We lost Weber in 2020, but her legendary breads live on at the restaurant.
Certainly many of Sonoma County’s local bakers could go big time, if they chose. Both Costeaux and Della Fattoria have grown over the years into wholesale businesses. More recently, after outgrowing her home-based baking business, the acclaimed Alexandra Zandvliet opened Sarmentine Organic French Bakery in Santa Rosa in 2021, which was immediately so popular she now has shops in Sebastopol and Petaluma, too.
The team at Quail & Condor bake breads at the owners’ second Healdsburg restaurant, Troubadour Bread & Bistro. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)Mike Zakowski, owner and baker of The Bejkr, sells his baked goods at the Sonoma Valley Certified Farmers Market. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Yet for many of today’s modern bakeries, keeping small is the point. “For us, the fulfillment doesn’t come from making a bunch of money and growing the business,” McGaughey says. “My husband and I are super-aligned on that. We don’t need to live superlavishly. We are able to pay our bills, put our kids in good schools, and reinvest in the people that we hire so they are able to not only have a career, but also be able to take care of themselves. If there’s anything left over, we are able to take one to two vacations a year.
“We also enjoy very much being able to work with the farmers personally. If we got any bigger, it’d be much harder for us to do that.”
The Bejkr’s Zakowski is a bit more blunt.
“No, none of that interests me,” he says politely, of expanding. “I used to do all that, working with so many bakeries. Been there, done that. I literally do everything myself now, and that’s what I love.”
