Roasted garlic ranch burger at Americana Restaurant in Santa Rosa’s Railroad Square. (Kelsey Joy Photography)
Dining editor Heather Irwin picks some favorite spots for summer dining in Sonoma County. Click through the above gallery for dishes to order.
Folktable
Let’s not mince words. Cornerstone Sonoma has long sought, and sometimes failed, to find an audience. It’s a lovely spot with sculpture gardens, tasting rooms, and aspirational design shops.
But the glue necessary to bind it together was never there, as restaurants quietly came and went without adding to the cohesion of a larger whole.
Until now. Folktable — a project from “Top Chef” finalist Casey Thompson and executive sous chef Melanie Wilkerson — is transforming meh into magnificent. After an extended ramp-up, Folktable has spread its wings with an expanded menu, dine-in seating, and patio service in the magnificent gardens. With flowers blooming, warm sun shining, and a bustling brunch set packing the place, it’s safe to say this spot is one of summer’s big hits.
Sitting under a sprawling olive tree, we couldn’t imagine a lovelier meal: fried chicken, tater tots smothered in Kewpie mayo and bonito flakes, and a big farm salad, each dish better than the last. Folktable also has a menu for dogs (of course), coffee and pastries from an outdoor kiosk, and the Best Buttermilk Carrot Cake, which lives up to its name.
Turkish eggs at Folktable in Sonoma. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
Best Bets
Fried Chicken Goujons, $18: This is just a fancy name for chicken fingers — juicy breast meat pieces covered in sticky chile-honey sauce and served with sweet, milk-washed Hawaiian rolls, pickles, and jalapeño dipping sauce.
Turkish Eggs, $13: This dish is a beauty. Poached eggs top warm Greek yogurt punctuated by Aleppo chile butter and crunchy shallots. Dip in crusty slices of sourdough for a satisfying breakfast or brunch.
Okonomiyaki Tots, $13: Here’s a riff on the savory Japanese pancake dish, topped with creamy Kewpie mayo, sweet barbecue sauce, scallions, and bonito flakes.
Open Wednesday through Sunday. 23584 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, 707-356-3569, folktable.com
Casino Bar & Grill – The Holly and Tali Show
The Casino Bar & Grill is a place to discover accidentally and then love unconditionally. As visitors crane their necks to see the steeple of the Saint Teresa of Avila church, made famous in Alfred Hitchcock’s “The Birds,” they tend to overlook an old wooden building that leans into the road at the center of town. For more than 100 years, the nondescript structure — with its neon red “CASINO” sign out front — has stood as a simple roadhouse. (It’s never been an actual casino.) Inside, the space is dark and woody, with creaking floors and an old jukebox in the corner. It’s not a place begging for attention from hipsters for its lineup of craft brews.
Salad with shrimp at The Holly and Tali Show at The Casino Bar and Grill in Bodega. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
On Monday through Thursday nights, local chefs and caterers Holly Carter and Tali Aiona put on the Holly and Tali Show at the Casino, preparing dinner menus reflecting the surrounding fields, farms, and fisheries.To call it a pop-up isn’t quite fair, because the duo have been creating destination-worthy food here for nearly six years — in a kitchen barely larger than its twoburner stove.
Recent menus included Panizzera sausage and brisket lasagna; orange-olive oil upside-down cake (their baked goods are incredible); Dungeness crab mac and cheese that beats every version I’ve ever had; kale and Brussels sprouts salad with prawns; tikka masala; and cider-brined pork chops with red lentils.
Don’t go in with any preconceived ideas. Just let Holly and Tali cook for you.
Open for dinner Monday through Thursday. 17000 Bodega Highway, Bodega. Order in advance; nightly menus are posted on Instagram @thehollyandtalishow. More details at thehollyandtalishow.com
Nimble & Finn’s
Guerneville’s legendary ice creamery has quietly opened a Santa Rosa outpost in Railroad Square with seasonal flavors like front porch mint chip, lavender honeycomb, and whiskey butterscotch. There are also boozy ice cream floats: We love the Permanent Holiday, featuring creamy Meyer lemon ice cream, Lo Fi sweet vermouth and Goat Rock rosé cider, and the summery Strawberry Letter, which combines strawberry sorbet, vermouth, elderflower, and Champagne. Either goes great with one of their gourmet grilled cheese sandwiches.
Open Thursday-Sunday. 123 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-666-9590, nimbleandfinns.com
Handmade organic ice cream from Nimble & Finn’s. (Courtesy of Nimble & Finn’s Ice Cream)
Americana
The opening of Americana is a dream come true for Samantha and Ryan Ramey.
The owners of Estero Cafe in Valley Ford saved for years with the hopes of bringing their field-to-fork diner fare to Santa Rosa. After simmering on a back burner during the pandemic, the restaurant is all ready for summer, with odes to classic American comfort food—think 1950s favorites like burgers, fried chicken, and onion rings with a side of the best pie you’ve ever had, all sourced from local farms and ranches.
Even in its infancy, Americana is the kind of uncomplicated, from-the-heart food that speaks to the moment. Best bets include the burger with blue cheese, mushrooms, and bacon—a mouthful of a meal on a Village Bakery bun—plus a fried chicken sandwich with coleslaw for extra crunch, a classic Cobb salad, and thick milkshakes with Straus ice cream. Americana’s holy grail French fries are cooked in beef tallow, just like original McDonald’s fries. Frying fat comes from Stemple Creek Ranch (as does the beef for the burgers) and is rendered in-house. It’s not a simple process, but the results are undeniable.
Open Thursday- Sunday. 205 Fifth St., Santa Rosa, 707-755-1548, americanasr.com
Cafe Citti
After a long renovation of the former Whole Pie location in Santa Rosa, the iconic Kenwood Italian restaurant best loved for its Caesar salad, lasagna, and crave-worthy pasta sauces is once again in business – with a twist.
Owners Luca and Linda Citti are now focused on takeout (though there are a handful of coveted seats on the outdoor deck). Pizzas, pasta, salads and sandwiches are queued up with amazing efficiency and ready to shuttle home to your table. There’s a lot of mix-and-matching on the menu, pairing sauces with pastas or polenta, which we love. Don’t miss the fried polenta with mushroom sauce or the pollo affumicato, a smoked chicken with tomato, and lemon cream sauce that’s perfect on anything.
Open Tuesday- Saturday. 2792 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-523-2690, cafecitti.com
Warm asparagus salad at Coyote Sonoma in Healdsburg. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)Red wine arancini at Coyote Sonoma in Healdsburg. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
Coyote Sonoma
“Beverly Healdsburg,” as locals sometimes call the once-sleepy ranch hamlet, is not known for its beer and chicken wings scene. But the one thing Healdsburg cannot abide, more than big-screen televisions the size of small trucks? Uninspired food. That’s why we’re smitten with Coyote Sonoma, in a hidden space in downtown’s Mill District. The spot’s Wednesday night trivia nights are becoming legendary, and the place feels like old times, when we could laugh and play games and shout out answers together.
Chef Tim Vallery has turned a ho-hum menu into something worthwhile: Reuben sandwiches with melted Gruyere; red wine arancini; and Pitman Farms chicken wings with housemade blue cheese dressing. Coyote Sonoma is just what we need right now: the familiar flavors of fun with a deft hand in the kitchen.
Open Wednesday – Saturday. 44F Mill St., Healdsburg, 707-433-4444, coyotesonoma.com
Pecan Pie from Sweet T’s in Windsor. (John Burgess/Sonoma Magazine)
Could there be any dessert more ready to satisfy our collective cravings this summer than a big ol’ slice of pie? Come July, when fresh-from-the-farm summer fruits are at their peak, all other desserts need to take a back seat. Just fold all that deliciousness into a crust and bake till bubbling.
Here are a dozen amazing spots to settle in for a slice—specialty bakeries, restaurants that lean heavily on pie, even a home-based entrepreneur who turned baking into a full-time gig. Plus, we’ve got summer holidays covered with a blue-ribbon recipe for Gravenstein apple pie. (The secret? Add blackberries!)
Step Back in Time — Betty’s Fish N’ Chips
When Susan Corso and her family bought Betty’s Fish N’ Chips 24 years ago, the only dessert on the menu was cheesecake. But Corso thought cheesecake with fish was a bad call. “I felt like lemon was the perfect match, so I took a basic lemon recipe and modified it, and that’s how the Lemon Cloud Pie came up,” she explains. With a super-flaky crust, tangy lemon custard (the fruit comes from her family’s Meyer lemon trees), and huge mounds of whipped cream, the delicious pie is a throwback to a simpler time.
All of Corso’s pies—over 200 a week at peak—are served in single-sized individual portions. “The problem is, it’s very, very labor-intensive,” laughs Corso. “I’ve created this monster for myself now, because everybody loves them, and that’s what they want, so I could never change.”
The 71-year-old runs Betty’s with her son and daughter-in-law, but the pies—the famous Lemon Cloud of course, but also apricot, triple berry, and rhubarb—are all her doing. Want the recipes? So does her son. They’re all in her head, she says. And she’s promised her family that this year, she’ll actually get around to writing them down.
The famous Lemon Cloud Pie and Apple Pie from Betty’s Bakery and Fish and Chips in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/Sonoma Magazine)
Double-Crust Wonders — Dominique’s Sweets
Dominique Cortara’s pies have loyal fans queuing up early at her farmer’s market booth. As the season unfolds, she bakes apricot, blueberry, blackberry, plum, peach, and Gravenstein apple pies. But there is a magical moment during summer’s harvest when she makes what may be the most epic of all summer sweets—a pie that combines four or more different fruits. “My favorite features nectarines, Santa Rosa plums, peaches, berries, and, when I can find them, cherries.”
Cortara has definite ideas about the structure of a perfect pie. “Pies are best with two crusts,” she explains, “as the top crust captures steam and facilitates cooking.” But because some folks like to see the fruit inside, she makes a few different lattice-top pies as well. Her flaky crust is simple: just local butter, unbleached organic flour, and ice-cold water.
Available Saturdays at the Santa Rosa Original Certified Farmers Market and Sundays at the Sebastopol Certified Farmers Market. Special orders available, 707-843-9765, dominiquesweets.com
Local’s favorites — Baker & Cook
Pastry chef extraordinaire Jen Demarest and her husband, Nick, ran the Harvest Moon Café on the Sonoma Plaza for years. They closed the busy restaurant in 2019 to focus on Baker & Cook, a more casual, neighborhood takeout shop.
Jen, who trained at the Culinary Institute of America and used to be a volunteer firefighter in her hometown of Kenwood, says her summer pies make the best of what’s at the market: caramel-peach, lemon-blueberry, and mixed berry. “I love just a simple peach and blackberry pie with a streusel topping,” she says. “The streusel makes it like a fruit crisp, but then you also have the crust.” She also makes a terrific s’more pie with a graham cracker crust, chocolate ganache, peanut butter mousse, and torched marshmallows on top. Her crusts are known to be super flaky and light. There’s no real secret, says Jen, just lots of butter. ‘That, and probably just technique — and love.’
Chile Pies Baking Co.’s pie with cheddar green chile-apple cheese crust and a walnut streusel topping. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Old-Fashioned With a Twist — Chile Pies Baking Co.
Set in the historic Guerneville Bank Club, this pie destination cares not a whit for calories. The from-scratch piecrusts are butter-based, and the counter staffers will wisely recommend you add a scoop of Nimble & Finn’s ice cream. You can go nuts, too, and turn the combo into a fancy milkshake – ask, and they shall blend.
Owner Trevor Logan thanks his grandmother for his love of pie – she baked every week when he was growing up in Oklahoma, he says. But pastry chef Wesley Monaham’s pies are all original recipes, including the New Mexico-style green chile apple, crafted with a tart filling that’s spiked with roasted Hatch green chiles under a sharp cheddar cheese crust sprinkled in brown sugar-walnut streusel. The recipe fits Logan’s preference for desserts that aren’t too sweet.
The pecan pie brims with nuts and benefits from the delicious addition of cinnamon- kissed Mexican chocolate. There’s also an apple, blackberry, and blueberry take-and-bake crumble that’s vegan and gluten-free. And if the white nectarine and raspberry pie is on offer the day you visit, don’t miss it.
Dennis and Ann Tussey’s shrine to Southern style cuisine has been a wine country favorite since it opened a decade ago, and why not? Everyone loves classic meals like barbecue, biscuits — and pie, wonderful pie. After the restaurant’s original home was lost in the 2017 wildfires, the restaurant returned to resounding cheers at a new Windsor location.
Pecan pie is served cold, in its sticky-crunchy, delicious glory, with a crown of vanilla ice cream slicked with caramel sauce. The Mississippi mud pie hits all the sweet spots, with a slab of mocha ice cream, and drizzled with Ghirardelli chocolate sauce, housemade caramel bourbon sauce and a cap of candied pecans, all atop an Oreo-cookie crust. And while it’s hard to get past the pecan and mud pies, explore the new banana cream pie, too. The crumbly graham cracker crust supports towering layers of banana custard and whipped cream, drizzled with chocolate and caramel sauces.
Pecan Pie from Sweet T’s in Windsor. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Gluten-Free Delicious — The Nectary
Raw, vegan, and gluten-free may, at first, seem to undercut the happy gluttony of pie, but the delicious summer offerings from The Nectary won’t leave you feeling lacking. Right now, they’re highlighting a strawberry-balsamic pie featuring fresh fruit from Petaluma’s Live Oak Farm, and a Meyer lemon-olive oil Sunshine Pie. “The juice, which is cold-pressed from local Meyer lemons, is amazing because the whole fruit is pressed, which means the juice is infused with essential oils from the peels,” explains founder Gia Baiocchi. The olive oil is from the robustly-flavored, piquant Arbequina, a Spanish olive variety.
For many pie lovers, it’s all about the crust. At The Nectary, you’ll find something unique: a vegan-friendly crust of sprouted buckwheat, dates, cashews, sunflower seeds, “activated” almonds (soaked in water for 24 hours), coconut oil, cinnamon, cardamom, vanilla, and pink salt.
The Nectary, inside the Barlow, 6760 McKinley St., Sebastopol, (707) 829-2697 and 312 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-473-0677, thenectary.net
A Slice in Hand — Criminal Baking Co.
The trick to securing a sweet treat at either of Criminal Baking Co.’s two locations is to arrive early, since owner-baker Dawn Zaft and co-baker Tayler Marsh’s made-daily hand pies sell out quickly. But it’s worth the work to wrap your taste buds around rotating flavors like sweet-tart roasted apples tossed with cinnamon, brown sugar, and lemon juice in a flaky, graham cracker crust.
To get your paws on a full-size pie, you need to order five days in advance. But that means you get to name your crust: buttery pastry, shortbread (gluten-free or regular), graham cracker, or a vegan oat and seed blend. Try silky peanut butter- chocolate cream pie rimmed in crumbles and finished with whipped cream and chocolate cookies. Or, for something different, dig into the delectable banana cream pie.
“The secret is our house-made custard recipe and a delicious smoked maple bourbon added in,” says Zaft. The pies are criminal, by the way – Zaft likes to joke that for her recipes, “fresh ingredients meet in a dark room to conspire in the ultimate taste bud heist.”
Criminal Baking Co., 808 Donahue Street, Santa Rosa, and 992 Gravenstein Hwy. South, Sebastopol, (707) 888-3546, criminalbaking.com
Summer Fruit Specialties — Jenny Malicki
“The fabulous fruit we have in Sonoma County inspires my summer pie-making,” says expert baker Jenny Malicki, adding it is also the most challenging time to bake, because of the heat. “A flaky crust needs cold,” she explains. Working with frozen dough helps maintain the layers of fat-flour-fatflour that create the beloved texture. It is important, as well, not to handle the dough too much, so that gluten does not develop.
Peach pie, made with fruit from a small orchard in Sebastopol, is a favorite, but the one that creates the most buzz is Malicki’s Atlantic Beach pie, inspired by crab shacks back East. The crust is crushed Saltine crackers, and the filling is a simple citrus custard — soft, tender, and topped with freshly whipped cream. “It is a delightful combination of sweet, salty, and crunchy,” she says.
Available at Estero Cafe, 14450 Highway 1, Valley Ford, and Americana, 205 5th St., Santa Rosa, 707-755-1548, americanasr.com.Malicki also serves pie at the Casino Bar & Grill pop-up, 17000 Bodega Highway, Bodega, 707-876-3185.
Exquisitely Crafted – Nom Nom Cakes
These intricate, 9-inch pies and 3.75-inch tarts are so gorgeous, you’d think they took a team of talented elves to create. But owner- baker Lana McIntire makes everything herself, all to-order, out of a licensed home kitchen she founded in 2017. She even personally handles deliveries to West County and the Santa Rosa area.
After baking her first pie at the age of nine, McIntire tested her recipes over and over until she found perfection. For summer, savor McIntire’s flawless peach pie, a labor-intensive, mouthwatering masterpiece. She marinates fruit from the Lao family farm in Sebastopol in vanilla and brown sugar, then thickens the sauce before baking. Her top crust is innovative too: a sweet-tart, eggwashed crust topped with turbinado sugar for both extra crunch and a subtle molasses flavor. No wonder she asks for a three-day lead time on all orders.
McIntire’s fruit tarts — nectarine, blueberry, raspberry, kiwi — sing of the season, with a slightly sour dough stuffed with vanilla bean custard. “But my personal favorite pie is my key lime pie,” McIntire says. “I love the creamy texture against the crunch, and the fresh whipped cream finish to balance the tart key lime.” The final flourish: toasted coconut shavings.
Nom Nom Cakes, pickup and local delivery, 805-350-0680, nomnombaking.com
Arnold Palmer Pie, with an Arnold Palmer drink, from The Spinster Sisters pastry chef Nicole Rubio. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Flavor Innovation — The Spinster Sisters
Pastry chef Nicole Rubio can do all the classics—lemon cream, berry pies, a terrific old-fashioned coconut cream—but what she’s really excited about is experimenting. Rubio can work magic with combinations others might find challenging—recently, an Arnold Palmer pie, with a creamy lemon meringue that gives way to a dollop of black tea jelly in the center. “It’s new and different, but it’s approachable, because everyone drinks Arnold Palmers,” Rubio says. “And I drink a lot of tea, so anytime I can work that into a recipe is great.”
Rubio, who graduated from the culinary program at Santa Rosa Junior College just a couple of years ago and started a small side gig, Fox and Bun, during the pandemic, credits family for her creativity and drive. Rubio’s mom is Italian, and on her dad’s side, she claims Mexican and Native American Yaqui heritage. “My dad’s mom is the woman on pie,” she says. “I use her apple pie and gingerbread recipes like a bible.”
Find Rubio’s pies on Instagram @foxandbun.bake and taste them at The Spinster Sisters, 401 South A St., Santa Rosa. 707-528-7100, thespinstersisters.com
A La Mode is a Must — Noble Folk Ice Cream & Pie Bar
With fan-favorite takeout cafes in downtown Santa Rosa and on the plaza in Healdsburg, Noble Folk Ice Cream & Pie Bar brings together two key ingredients to satisfy a sweet tooth: excellent pies and the ice cream to go on top. The flavor combinations here are sophisticated and seasonal, such as strawberry-blueberry-ginger, peach-raspberry, and Scandinavian almond-cardamom custard, which pays tribute to the family background of co-owner Christian Sullberg. There’s also classic apple with a crumble top, and a Mississippi mud pie with s’mores—a chocolate-lover’s dream, with gooey marshmallows baked inside and a cinnamon spiced whipped cream topping. Order by the slice, or grab a whole pie to take home.
Ordering a la mode is a given here, with creamy, house-made scoops like salted caramel and coffee that allow pie fans to layer in that something extra. Sullberg says he knows the past year has been a tough one: “I want people to enjoy something indulgent.”
539 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, (707) 978-3392 and 116 Matheson St., Healdsburg, 707-395-4426, thenoblefolk.com
Ingredients with Integrity — Petaluma Pie Company
Ingredients come as local as possible for co-owners Lina Hoshino and Angelo Sacerdote of Petaluma Pie Company, which recently celebrated its 10th anniversary. The small mom-and-pop shop uses organic unbleached pastry flour from Central Milling in Petaluma, just a few miles away. They buy their butter and eggs down the road, too: butter from Straus Family Creamery and eggs from the free-range chickens at Coastal Hill Farm.
Hoshino and Sacerdote have a rotating lineup of fruit and cream pies— coconut, chocolate, banana—plus lime and lemon meringue pies every day, made with fruit they harvest themselves. “We switched over to an Italian-style meringue,” says Sacerdote. “It’s a cooked sugar solution added into the whites as you’re whipping them, and it’s a lot more stable. Then you use a torch.”
Another can’t miss? The Elvis Pie, which layers peanut butter pie, sliced bananas, and chocolate cream, and comes topped with loads of whipped cream, more chocolate, and chopped nuts. Fit for a king indeed.
Gravenstein apple pie from recipe developer and cookbook producer Kim Laidlaw. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Great Summer Pie at Home
Growing up, Petaluma’s Kim Laidlaw, a cookbook author, editor, and recipe developer, loved to bake with her mother, and now she continues the tradition alongside her own daughter, Poppy. Laidlaw’s All-American recipe makes the most of Sonoma’s most celebrated local fruit, the Gravenstein apple—in this case, combined with blackberries to bubble up with tons of summer flavor. It’s a juicy, fragrant pie that’s all about the freshness of the filling. Laidlaw says you can make the dough up to a day in advance, but you’ll want to prepare the apples and berries just before baking. And feel free to play around. Laidlaw says the sweetness and juiciness of a pie is really a personal preference. Add more or less sugar, toss in a teaspoon of ground cinnamon if you like spice, or use brown sugar instead of white if you like the flavor better.
Sebastopol Gravenstein Apple and Wild Blackberry Pie
Makes 1 pie
For the crust:
2½ cups all-purpose flour ½ teaspoon kosher salt
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
14 tablespoons (7 ounces) very cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes
10 tablespoons ice cold water, plus more if needed
For the filling:
3 pounds Gravenstein apples, peeled, cored, and cut into wedges about 1/4-inch thick ½ small lemon, juiced ¾ cup packed golden brown
sugar ¼ cup granulated sugar ¼ cup (packed) tapioca starch
2 cups fresh blackberries (12 ounces)
1 egg, beaten with 1 teaspoon water to make an egg wash
1-2 tablespoons raw sugar, for sprinkling Vanilla ice cream or lightly sweetened whipped cream, for serving
Instructions:
First, make the crust. In the bowl of a food processor, process together the flour, salt and sugar.
Sprinkle the butter over the top and pulse a few times, just until the butter is the size of large peas. Evenly sprinkle the water over the flour mixture, then process until the mixture just starts to come together (add another 1 tablespoon of water, if needed, to bring it together).
Dump the dough into a large plastic bag, and press together to flatten into a disk. Refrigerate the dough for 30 minutes. (At this point the dough can be refrigerated for up to one day or frozen for up to one month; before rolling out, bring to cool room temperature.) Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 375 degrees (if you use a convection oven, start at 375 degrees for the first 40 minutes, then reduce the heat to 350 for the remaining cooking time).
To make the filling, toss together the apple slices, lemon juice, sugars and tapioca starch. Set aside while you roll out the dough.
To roll out the dough, remove the chilled dough disc from the refrigerator.
Divide the dough in half and form into two discs.
(If the dough is too cold and firm to roll out, let it stand at room temperature for about 10 minutes.) Dust a flat work surface and a rolling pin with flour.
Place one dough disc in the center of the work surface.
Starting from the center and rolling toward the edges and in all directions, roll out the dough into a 12-inch round. As you roll the dough, lift and rotate it several times to make sure it doesn’t stick to the work surface, dusting the surface and the rolling pin with flour as needed.
To line the pie dish, gently roll the dough loosely around the rolling pin and then unroll it over a 9-inch pie dish (preferably glass) so that it is roughly centered on the pan.
Lift the edges of the dough to allow the dough to settle into the bottom of the dish evenly.
Roll out the second dough disc into a rectangle that is about 12 inches wide. Using a pizza wheel or a large knife, cut the dough into as many strips as you can; they can all be the same width (1 to 2 inches) or you can vary some thick and some thin.
You should have about 10 strips, more or less.
Gently stir the fresh blackberries into the apple mixture you’ve set aside, then spoon the mixture, including the juices, into the pastry shell in an even layer.
Lay 5 strips of dough evenly across the top of the pie, using the longest strips in the center and the shorter strips on the sides (if you have different widths, vary those as you like).
Fold back every other strip halfway, and lay down a strip perpendicular across the unfolded strips.
Repeat the process of folding back and laying down strips to weave five additional strips of dough evenly across the top of the pie.
Trim the dough (bottom crust and strips together) to leave a 1½-inch overhang.
Tuck the dough under itself to create a rim. Use your fingers or a fork to flute the rim. Place the prepared pie on a baking sheet.
Gently brush the top and edges of the crust lightly with the egg wash. Sprinkle with the raw sugar.
Bake until the crust is golden brown and the apples are tender when pierced with a wooden skewer or a thin knife, about 1 hour 15 minutes. (If the crust starts to get too dark for your liking, lay a piece of foil over the top toward the end of baking.) Let cool to room temperature (or just slightly warm, if you can’t wait), about 3 hours, and serve with a big scoop of vanilla ice cream.
As summer temperatures continue to soar, we are all searching for ways to stay cool. How about beating the heat with an overnight stay or day pass at one of the many splashy hotel properties in the area? Sonoma County has plenty of sparkling pools perfect for a hot day. As does Napa. Click through the above gallery for some of our favorites. Did we miss your favorite? Let us know in a comment below.
Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Winery in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Winery)
The everyday roar of life can be deafening. Even in relative quiet, phones chime, dogs bark, the refrigerator hums and meetings beckon. Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Winery, deep in the Dry Creek Valley, is a place to reclaim that inner quiet with a series of Sunday brunches running through October.
The Italian-inspired winery estate, Villa Fiore, is encircled by exquisite gardens, including an enclosed meditative garden with a footbridge and chef’s garden, as well as a spectacular fountain that splashes in the background.
In the gardens at Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Winery in Healdsburg. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
Through October, you can enjoy a delicious brunch and wine tasting on the patio with just a handful of other guests. It’s a lovely affair that includes dishes like Prosciutto Benedict with estate eggs, Hollandaise sauce and Italian prosciutto; a Brunch Pizza with Journeyman bacon or the delicious Porchetta Sandwich with herbed pork, truffle aioli and pecorino cheese on a ciabatta.
Seatings from 10:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Sunday. Reservations are required. $85 per person ($68 for wine club members). 8761 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg. Details at ferrari-carano.com
Scallops, trout pate and tomato foccaccia at The Spinster Sisters in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
Prepare for changes in your dining experience as staffing woes, financial pinches, exhaustion and a quest for something just … different alter the restaurant landscape. Menus, hours, seating and pretty much everything else may change, and there’s also a sudden groundswell of ideas throughout Sonoma County that are introducing the out-of-the-ordinary.
Here are two incredible Santa Rosa restaurants representative of the kinds of changes that have us so excited about what’s next. Expect to hear about more fresh ideas at old haunts (and new spots) as we survey the new, new dining scene.
The Spinster Sisters
While the pandemic was rough for Chef Liza Hinman of The Spinster Sisters restaurant in Santa Rosa, she continued to find other ways to reach her loyal audience. First, with curbside pickup, then with creative, globe-spanning “Family Meal” dinners for two like braised chicken with artichokes, polenta and field greens with green garlic focaccia, salad and a dessert. When restrictions eased slightly, she and her staff built an outdoor garden with casual tables and the restaurant sold wines by the bottle and pantry items. Basically, Hinman did whatever she could to keep the restaurant open and staff working.
Now Hinman and many other chefs are taking stock as dining reopens. Limited staff, pandemic exhaustion and a refocus on what really matters are leading many to change business models, rethink menus and reassess what got them into the food business in the first place.
Peach salad at The Spinster Sisters in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine).
For Hinman, that’s meant some radical changes. She ended breakfast and lunch service, reformatted her menu to better reflect her cooking style and realized that trying to be everything to everyone just wasn’t sustainable.
“Coming out of the pandemic, I faced a lot of tough decisions about the direction we were going to head as a business when we reopened,” Hinman said.
“After a year of traveling the globe through our Family Meal menus, I wanted to take some time and cook food that was closer to my culinary home. So I looked to New England for some inspiration — where I grew up — and also to my Italian culinary background, the cuisine I spent most of my formative years cooking in San Francisco and Sonoma County,” she said. “I decided to part ways with the menus that had defined Spinster in pre-pandemic times and start fresh — essentially, open a new restaurant highlighting our garden space and these culinary influences.”
That’s not an easy pivot, especially with longtime patrons. But Hinman said she’s ready to focus on dinner service only and that the past few months have reinforced her resolve.
“We can’t please all of the different diners — those looking for pancakes and those looking for a fine-dining dinner. And we are unlikely to go back, because we are really feeling great about our new focus.“
Her New England background is apparent in the “Ocean” section of the new menu, with dishes like baked oysters with garlic herb butter and breadcrumbs ($12); a Wild Gulf Shrimp Salad Roll ($26) and Down East Clam Chowder with bacon, potatoes and homemade oyster crackers ($12) — one of the best-tasting chowders ever, especially with the float of crunchy crackers.
Another big winner from the Ocean section is the Mt. Lassen smoked trout pate ($15) with a piquant horseradish cream, avocado, beets and seeds with adorable endive boats for dipping. Finally, if you miss the Shrimp Salad Roll (lobster has gotten crazy expensive), you’re missing not only the buttery griddled bun but homemade salt and vinegar chips that put a smile on my face ($26). And that’s just one section of the menu that also includes a charming salad with Dry Creek peaches, Akaushi flat iron steak with grilled tomatoes and a divine blueberry bread pudding.
Spend some time perusing the well-curated wine list that includes several “orange” wines, which have nothing to do with actual oranges but an ancient winemaking technique that has been gaining traction in the last several years. The syrupy orange color belies a tart, nutty, often tannin-heavy wine that’s absolutely not like anything you’ve ever had.
Get ready for curves ahead, because The Spinster Sisters is not what it was. Even so, it still has the heart and personality it’s always had in spades. Open from 4 – 9 p.m. Thursday through Saturday for dinner. Family Meal dinners are available to eat in the garden. 401 S. A St., Santa Rosa, 707-528-7100, thespinstersisters.com.
Fourth Street Social
The former Jade Room in downtown Santa Rosa opened as Fourth Street Social just in time for the pandemic to start. It quietly hummed along serving only plant-based food until early 2021, when Chef Jeremy Cabrera decided to throw the whole thing sky high, reinvent the menu and bring a fine-dining feel to this pint-sized dining room.
You pretty much can’t look away from his Instagram feed @4thstreetsocialclub, featuring tweezer-ritfic plating, eye-popping rainbow hues using only plants and, of course, blue strawberries. Cabrera is clearly a tinkerer, using blue pea flower to color strawberries from the owner Melissa Matteson’s gardens and his own foraging.
Deconstructed lemon tart at Fourth Street Social Club in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy of Fourth Street Social)The High Priestess with house smoked Sabe Blanco Tequila, peach and apricot nectar, peach bitters, rose and elderberry at Fourth Street Social Club. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
The food is astounding, but we could do without some of the awkward folderol and pomp surrounding the dining experience. Such as, say, overly precious sections of the menu called “The Daughter” (smaller share plates) and “The Mother” (entrees) and the dishes requiring diners to order the “Penelope” (marinated pork belly) or “Daisy” (seared duck breast). The pre-meal complimentary tea is also slightly cringey (why am I getting tea?). Even the servers seem a bit embarrassed having to explain all the hoopla.
I get past it, however, for one of the best dishes I’ve had in a long, long time — the “Zuke” ($14) with roasted and torched white asparagus, fermented chiles, cherry relish, mint aioli and a shoyu-cured egg yolk topped with ube tuile. It’s tearfully lovely, but cracking the purple yam lace and releasing the salty umami yolk onto perfectly cooked asparagus is just as enjoyable. Eat with fingers for best results. Seriously, this is just so unexpected in downtown Santa Rosa.
We also love the “Lucy,” assorted seasonal housemade pickled fruits and veggies ($12). Pickled veggies are one thing, but adding fiddlehead ferns, blueberries and pickled strawberries makes it even more delightful. It’s this kind of attention that recently won the restaurant the Snail of Approval, a recognition of sustainable, slow food practices and a commitment to the core values of the slow food movement.
The “Daisy“ ($34) is a meaty dish with perfectly cooked duck breast with a bouquet of pickled and fresh cherries, watercress and dehydrated raspberries on a blackberry compote. Poured over tableside is a coconut lavender milk with herb oil. Sumptuous. Finally, don’t miss the “Lacey” ($32), a meat-free dish with roasted parsnips, cauliflower, pear rosettes, white corn succotash and lavender-smoked nectarine syrup with fried parsnip lace. I’m not a parsnip fan, but the roast made them sweet and soft, pairing so nicely with sweet summer corn.
Part of the joy of the meal is the farm-to-glass cocktails ($13), made with low-ABV spirits mixed with fresh fruit, bitters and even edible gold. Fun, without packing too big of a boozy punch.
Reservations highly recommended, 643 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-978-3882, 4thstreetsocialclub.com
Single Thread, a 3-Michelin star restaurant in Healdsburg, has won Wine Spectator Magazine’s Grand Award for its 2,600-bottle wine list (with a cellar holding 10,600 bottles).
This is the highest award given to restaurants that “show an uncompromising, passionate devotion to the quality of their wine programs.“ It’s an elite group, with only 97 winners in the world, among them Eleven Madison Park, The French Laundry, Le Taillevent in Paris, Spago Beverly Hills and The American Hotel in Sag Harbor, New York, which has been on the list since its inception in 1981.
“This has been a dream of mine, to be able to curate a Grand Award-winning list,” Wine Director Rusty Rastello told Wine Spectator. “We are truly honored and humbled to be the first Grand Award list in the bustling wine community of Sonoma County.“
Rastello’s team of sommeliers at Single Thread includes Alexandria Sarovich, Christopher McFall, Jonny Bar, Spencer Chaffey and Kelly Eckel.
The 2021 Grand Award winners include New Orleans’ Brennan’s and Le Bernardin in New York. More details about the Healdsburg restaurant owned by Kyle and Katina Connaughton at singlethreadfarms.com.
Rodney Strong Vineyards in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of Rodney Strong Vineyards)
Sometimes all a wine lover wants is an honest drink. A wine that’s affordable for any night of the week and every occasion. One that’s delicious and generously flavored, yet straightforward and without any pretension that it should be aged longer, served only with certain foods or poured at a precise temperature.
Honest wines should offer great value — what marketers call high QPR, or quality-to-price ratio, which is shorthand for vino that tastes a heck of a lot better than its price would suggest. Not all cheap wines have high QPR, and some more expensive bottles — say a Pinot Noir with a suggested retail price of $35 — can deliver more bang for the buck than another Pinot costing $55.
One of Sonoma’s many vinous blessings is that good- to great-value “honest” wines are still plentiful. Unlike Napa Valley, which became, for better or for worse, internationally glorified as a producer of super-expensive Cabernet Sauvignons and very little else, Sonoma County is larger in acreage with more diverse grape-growing areas, myriad varieties planted and winegrowing roots dating to before Prohibition, with many families still holding ownership of their vines and wineries.
Make no mistake, Sonoma produces its share of wallet-busting wines (particularly Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs). Yet many long-established wineries continue to satisfy consumers with smartly priced wines for any-day enjoyment, while also offering higher-end, more complex bottlings for those who seek them out.
Here are 10 Sonoma wineries that pour something for everyone, with excellent value/QPR in mind. Prices listed are those charged at the tasting rooms; these wines often can be found for less at high-volume-buying chain stores. Case purchases at these wineries are highly recommended for discounted pricing, too.
Alexander Valley Vineyards
Harry and Maggie Wetzel bought the historic Cyrus Alexander homestead in 1963, planted grapevines and raised their children there. Three generations of Wetzels now farm the vines. Cabernet Sauvignon is AVV’s bread-and-butter varietal, first bottled in 1968. Yet today, they produce a wide range of wines, among them a refreshing dry rosé of Sangiovese ($22), estate Chardonnay ($23) and estate Zinfandel ($24). When it comes to fine-value cabs, the ones to try are the Estate ($28) and the Organically Grown Estate ($35). The Alexander School Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon is a bargain, for its character and quality, at $60.
In a nondescript yet intimate tasting room in a Santa Rosa industrial park, winemaker Carol Shelton sells the Zinfandels she’s known for and also her “bargain” treasures (my term) — Chardonnays and Viogniers she labels as “wild things.” The Wild Thing Chardonnay ($24), from Shelton’s Dry Creek Valley vineyard, often bests far more expensive wines in competitions; it’s a crowd-pleaser, for sure. The Viognier ($24) hails from the Damiano Vineyard in Placer County. It’s an aromatic, honeysuckle-laced wine with richness cut by crisp acidity. Zin-fanatics know Shelton for her Wild Thing Old Vine Mendocino County Zinfandel ($21), an amazing value blend that includes Carignane and Petit Sirah. Upgrade to Shelton’s array of more complex Zinfandels, among them Rocky Reserve Rockpile ($44) and Maggie’s Reserve Old Vine Sonoma Valley ($38).
Fred and Nancy Cline started Cline Family Cellars in 1982, in Oakley in northeastern Contra Costa County. There, on the banks of the Sacramento-San Joaquin River Delta, grow ancient Zinfandel, Mourvedre and Carignane grapevines in soils so sandy it’s hard to believe they can support green growth. The Clines tapped these vines for their wines. In 1989, they moved their business to Sonoma Carneros, where they planted Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Noir and Syrah and devoted much of their vineyard acreage to what’s now the Petaluma Gap AVA. There are many excellent values in the multitiered brand lineup, among them the Seven Ranchlands Sauvignon Blanc, Estate Chardonnay and Estate Viognier, at approximately $25. Two to four bucks more scores the Estate Merlot, Pinot Noir and Syrah. For a taste of Oakley old-vine wine, try the Ancient Vines Contra Costa County Zinfandel ($22).
One can spend $90 for this Russian River Valley producer’s fine Estate Pinot Noir and $125 for the Parcelles Cachees Pinot Noir, from a vineyard block on the estate. Such is the pricing of top-notch Pinots from the Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast. DeLoach’s bargains are found in the Russian River Valley blends of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir ($34-$45), which overdeliver on quality and complexity. Winemaker Brian Maloney has a knack for evaluating multiple lots of wine and knitting them together seamlessly. He also produces several other varietals, including ultrafine zinfandels, traditional-method sparkling wines and Riesling and Pinot Noir from Marin County grapes.
David Stare, enamored by the wines of France’s Loire Valley, rolled the dice by planting Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc in Dry Creek Valley in the early 1970s against local viticulturists’ advice. They were wrong, as Stare coaxed fruit-driven yet racy white wines from his vineyard, later adding Zinfandel, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and another Loire Valley staple, Cabernet Franc. Although Chenin Blanc proved unprofitable at Dry Creek Valley land prices, Stare’s daughter, Kim Stare Wallace, her husband, Don, and winemaker Tim Bell continue to produce a dry version of the varietal from Clarksburg grapes ($18). Sauvignon Blanc is well-represented by the classic Fume Blanc at $21, the gently oaked and outstanding Sauvignon Blanc ($25) and two vineyard-designated Sauv Blancs. The Bordeaux-style reds are, dare I say, underpriced versus most of the competition, with the Cabernet Sauvignon ($35) and Merlot ($42). Zinfandels, many of them vineyard-designated, range from $28-$56.
Reno hoteliers Don and Rhonda Carano made Dry Creek Valley their second home in 1981, and what a place it is. They founded their winery, with its Italian-style architecture, stunning gardens, fountains and sculptures, in 1981, and matched the splendor with quality wines. Now owned by Foley Family Wines, Ferrari-Carano continues to bottle exceptional wines across multiple price points, with the black-and-silver label “Classic” series ubiquitous in grocery stores and on restaurant by-the-glass lists. Yet don’t miss these wines — Fume Blanc ($21), Pinot Grigio ($25) and dry rosé ($24) — because they are downright delicious, crowd-pleasing and often discounted. There are the single-vineyard, reserve and PreVail lines for those willing to spend more.
Founded in 1927 — during Prohibition, no less — this Dry Creek Valley winery also has weathered the Great Depression, World War II, 9/11, the 2008 economic meltdown, floods, fires and a pandemic to stay in business. That business has always been based on selling quality wines at affordable prices, even today, when the urge might have been to elevate prices and thus, profits. Jim Pedroncelli and his late brother, John, simply resisted. Spaniard Montse Reece took over winemaking duties from John six years ago, and while she has put her own spin on vinification, the Pedroncelli wines remain remarkably well-priced. The rosé is dry (not sweet) and luscious, with bright strawberry and watermelon fruit ($22). The Mother Clone Zinfandel is classic Dry Creek Valley, with pure red and black berry fruit and a dash of spice ($24). Don’t miss the Brother’s Mark Cabernet Sauvignon ($24), medium-bodied and balanced.
Founder Fred Peterson and his adult children, winemaker Jamie Peterson and sales and marketing manager Emily Peterson, grow 14 varieties in their Bradford Mountain Estate Vineyard off West Dry Creek Road. As farming costs and grape prices continued to soar in Sonoma County, they looked to Mendocino County for less expensive fruit, and the result is a less pricey, second line of wines. Barbera, Zinfandel and a Mendo Blendo red, all from grapes grown in the Tollini Vineyard in Mendocino, represent fine value for the money. The Peterson-label wines come from both the Bradford Mountain vineyard and purchased grapes. Zinfandel is a prime focus ($24-$42), as well as Petite Sirah ($38). Don’t miss the Egret 3V White Blend ($28), utterly refreshing on a summer afternoon and unusual for its mix of Vermentino, Vernaccia and Verdelho. Have a crowd coming over? Invest $92 in a bag-in-box 3-liter of Mendo Blendo, the equivalent of four 750-ml bottles.
4791 Dry Creek Road, Building 7, Healdsburg, 707-431-7568, petersonwinery.com
Rodney Strong Vineyards
You can get anything you want at Alice’s Restaurant, and Rodney Strong Vineyards, too: Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, rosé, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Meritage-style blends and Zinfandel, from $15 to $100 and up. The 60-year-old Healdsburg winery has undergone some brand and packaging retooling, including breaking out its Knotty Vines Zinfandel, previously under the Rodney Strong label, into a Knotty Vines brand. Priced at $15 each, the line includes Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and a red blend. It’s party-priced and competently made. The Sonoma County line (from $18), which retired winemaker Rick Sayre worked magic to create amazing-for-the-price wines, is now under the guidance of director of winemaking Justin Seidenfeld and better than ever. In fact, Rodney Strong Vineyards wines, across the board, are better than ever, and Seidenfeld’s Cabernet Sauvignon program is headed into the stratosphere. Watch this space.
11455 Old Redwood Highway, Healdsburg, 800-678-4763, rodneystrong.com
St. Francis Winery & Vineyards
Like many of the wineries here, St. Francis has been around a long time (founded in 1971) and has slowly raised wine prices to reflect the times and the costs of doing business. A $10 St. Francis Sonoma County Chardonnay in 1995 might have increased by 70% percent today, yet at $17, it’s still a steal. So are the Sonoma County Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Old-Vine Zinfandel, each at $22. From there are levels of reserve and single-vineyard wines, with cabernet and zinfandel the red-wine rock stars. Winemakers Katie Madigan and Chris Louton also produce small lots of Rhone-style wines, malbec, sangiovese and other varietals — all at reasonable prices compared to much of the competition.
With the North Bay’s beautiful summer weather comes a desire to get outside and explore. Marin County and Mendocino County are home to historical lighthouses that make for a perfect day trip, or destinations to visit as part of a weekend getaway. We have compiled a list of North Coast lighthouses to add to your itinerary, as well as some nearby attractions and restaurants to complete your visit. Remember it can get cold and foggy on the coast, so bring warm layers, maybe even a hot beverage. Click through the above gallery for details.
An adventurous spirit is taking hold this summer, as we see our landscapes with fresh eyes. Meet five Sonoma locals who explore our wild spaces in bold ways—from fishing the coast in a kayak to foraging for wild foods to mountain biking the craggiest ridgetops.
Kayak Fisher Kyle Monte
Standing on the beach at Fort Ross, all geared up and ready to jump in his kayak, guide Kyle Monte adds one last warning: “If for some reason I’m unconscious and unresponsive and you need to call for help, here’s the button to push,” he says, pointing out a red button on the waterproof radio attached to his life vest that will send a GPS signal to the Coast Guard. What started out as a calm morning along the coast near Jenner, will likely get blown out, he says. That means we might have an hour or two to hook rockfish before the swells rise.
Welcome to the always unpredictable world of ocean kayak fishing on the Sonoma coast. You gotta work to catch your fish with Monte, owner-adventurer of Kayak Fish Sonoma. Riding high on top of the water on rigged-out, hands-free, pedal-powered kayaks, guests lure rockfish, lingcod, salmon, halibut, striped bass, even sturgeon from the rocky depths. Kayak fishing is a more visceral experience than other types of fishing, Monte tells me. The kayak moves with every swell, sea spray splashing your face. “It’s a much more hands-on experience. When the fish bites and pulls, your whole kayak is moving.”
The rocky point near the cove at Fort Ross, a popular launch point. (Kim Carroll)
Whether guiding or fishing on his own, Monte watches the weather like a hawk, constantly checking NOAA updates and surfing apps so there are no surprises. “People forget how quickly the ocean can get out of control,” he says. “So I always go overboard with the safety.”
When the fish bites and pulls, your whole kayak is moving.
About a mile out, above craggy, uneven terrain, the first thing hooked is the bottom. “That’s what I call, ‘catching Cali,’” Monte jokes, before breaking the line and tying on new tackle. It doesn’t take long to land a black rockfish, which we decide to keep. But soon after, just as Monte predicted, the winds whip up and the fish hunker down.
We find calmer waters against a cliff in the same Fort Ross cove where Kashia Pomo people, and later, Russian settlers once found shelter. A seal and her month-old pup eye us from the shore, watching our every move. A few more curious seals pop up in the water around us. “I guess there are no greedy fish today,” Monte says, as we pedal back in, then pick up paddles and ride the breaking waves into shore.
“At least there’s something to throw on the grill tonight,” he says, after cleaning the rockfish and wrapping it for the trip home. After stuffing it with fresh herbs and lemon slices and grilling it whole, it tastes just like the ocean — a briny flavor even more satisfying knowing we had to paddle out and brave the waves to catch it.
— John Beck
The day’s catch, headed for the grill. (Kim Carroll)
Kyle Monte, right, with author John Beck. (Kim Carroll)
Heading Out
Guided trips: With a guide, kayak fishing on the Sonoma coast is a thrilling but accessible adventure. Monte’s business, Kayak Fish Sonoma, can take care of the details, starting at $300 per person including all equipment. “July, August, and September are hot months for salmon, when they’re close enough into shore to catch in kayaks,” Monte says. kayakfishingsonoma.com
Clubs: NorCal Kayak Anglers has an online forum with advice and fishing reports. norcalkayakanglers.com
Gear: Bodega Tackle, Petaluma, 707-559-3239
Mountain Biker Larissa Connors
Larissa Connors is the pro cyclist next door — and the best ambassador you’ll ever meet for getting out on Sonoma’s trails. Connors, who grew up riding in Annadel-Trione State Park and recently returned to Santa Rosa, is one of the country’s most decorated endurance mountain bike athletes, a two-time winner of the grueling Leadville 100 championship. She rides professionally for Voler Factory Racing, but she’s also mom of a toddler daughter, coaches a Santa Rosa youth mountain biking team, and teaches math at Petaluma High.
For Connors, riding Sonoma’s trails is more than just training and exercise. It’s engaging with the company of other riders— and a way to see Sonoma’s nature from a different perspective. “Here everything is just so gorgeous and bursting with life. And every second I’m on my bike, I just feel like it’s so full of joy,” she says. “There’s so much support and community and enthusiasm here around helping people get into this sport. And then you go on the trails—at Annadel or anywhere you go—and everyone’s happy, just celebrating being outside and appreciating it.”
Pro mountain biker Larissa Connors, right, with her mentee, junior national champion rider Vida Lopez de San Roman, who lives in Sebastopol. The two often train together in Trione-Annadel State Park. (Chris Hardy)
Pro mountain biker Larissa Connors. (Chris Hardy)
The bike community in Sonoma is tight-knit; riders cheer each other on and help out, even at elite levels. “I got a flat at Jack London, and I borrowed tools from two different groups of dudes… it’s just so helpful,” she laughs.
There’s so much support and community and enthusiasm here around helping people get into this sport. And then you go on the trails and everyone’s happy, just celebrating being outside.
In Connors’ world, one huge bonus to the bike scene in Sonoma County are the amazing post-ride meals: baked goods, burgers, milkshakes. She recently joked on Instagram that she doesn’t know whether she’s a cyclist with a pastry problem or a pastry lover with a biking problem. “Either way, I think ending up back in Sonoma County is the best thing that ever happened to me. We got an unlimited supply of butter being hugged by flour and miles of gorgeous roads in between!”
It’s all about getting out there, says Connors. “Just go pick a trail and commit…There are so many places in Sonoma County that are super beginner-friendly. And it 100% doesn’t matter if you have to hop off and walk something, because all of us started out that way… all of us walk obstacles at some point.”
— Abigail Peterson
Heading Out
Guided group rides: Santa Rosa’s TrailHouse often hosts group rides (see trailhousesantarosa.com for details), and Bell Joy Ride hosts women-only rides at all levels (on Facebook @ belljoyridesantarosa).
Clubs: The Redwood Empire Mountain Bike Alliance advocates for cyclists and builds trails. mountainbikealliance.org
Connor’s favorite beginner ride:
Windsor: Foothill Regional Park Oakwood to Alta Vista to Three Lakes Trail – 3 miles with a 500-foot climb. This is a very tame ride, says Connors, and a great place for someone brandnew to riding on dirt.
Near Occidental: Willow Creek Road Trail 19 miles out and back with a 1,000-foot climb. This is a gorgeous beginner ride on a wide fire road through redwoods.
Santa Rosa – North Sonoma: Ridge to Sonoma Ridge Trail 13 miles out and back with a 2,000-foot climb. This is a good pick for after you’ve built up some fitness, says Connors. It’s moderately technical with amazing views and options to extend the ride into Jack London State Historic Park.
To help navigate, Connors also recommends two apps: MTBproject (mtbproject.com) and Trailforks (trailforks.com).
At Bohemia Preserve near Occidental, Coby Liebman and his foraging partner Redbird pause at the preserve’s waterfall. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
Wild Foods Chef Coby Leibman
Cicadas are clicking in the dappled shade as a group of wild-food enthusiasts pauses to listen.“There they are,” says naturalist Meghan Walla-Murphy. “They hadn’t made a sound until we stopped.”
Making time to be still and pay attention to the surrounding woodland is just part of what this group — which also includes chef Coby Leibman and two of his mentors, Tektekh Gabaldon and Redbird Willie — holds dear. Each patch of grass, each tree or wildflower, it seems, reveals a different story about the life of the landscape and those who inhabit it.
Take the California bay laurel, for instance. Its leaves are medicinal and act as insect repellent. And its nuts can be gathered from the ground and roasted. Then there’s soaproot, growing on a steep embankment near the foot of the bay laurel. Motioning to its wavy-edged long leaves, Gabaldon, a member of the Onatsatis Nation and a tribal monitor, explains how the plant was used in Native American fishing practices. “We’d rub that and place it in a part of the creek where the water pools and riffles, and it makes the fish comatose.”
Wild foods open up an understanding of how an ecosystem works when everything is in balance, explains Leibman. “Every three to seven years we get these masses of acorns that feed the squirrels and deer, so they then have high birthing rates because they’ve built up their fat, which then feeds the predators. So you get these cycles of the system building itself up.”
Wild foods open up an understanding of how an ecosystem works when everything is in balance.
Salmonberries, thimbleberries, elderberries, gooseberries peak in summer. But there are ways to harvest that create a sustainable system and more abundance for everyone. “When we pick huckleberries, for example, we break off all the end tips, which mimics natural grazers,” Leibman explains, adding, “The ways people wild-farmed for thousands of years—through cultural burning, aerating of soil, digging roots—created an abundance that you can still, in a lot of wild places, see the traces of.”
The traditions of foraging—of searching for pinole seed and curly dock, sour grass and wood sorrel, wild figs and loquats, seaweed and sea urchins—foster what Leibman describes as “a deep tranquility,” a sense of the interconnectedness among all strands of life, from the tiny ant to the mighty oak. “Foraging has given me a deeper understanding of our place within that system, tending to it and building up these communities. There’s sometimes a feeling that we need to be as hands-off as possible, but there’s a lot we can do to support and create life in a place too.”
— Trina Enriquez
Heading Out
Guided trips: A few times a year, Coby Leibman and Meghan Walla-Murphy lead Sonoma foraging trips with conservation group LandPaths. Expeditions teach about foraging etiquette, identifying plants, and cooking with wild foods. 707-5447284, landpaths.org
Guidebooks: Leibman recommends these titles for beginners.
The Bay Area Forager by Mia Andler and Kevin Feinstein The Sea Forager’s Guide to the Northern California Coast by Kirk Lombard The Forager’s Harvest by Samuel Thayer
Summer’s wild foods: Clover, wood sorrel, purslane, and dandelion greens Seeds of wild buckwheat, radish, black sage, and curly dock Fennel and mint Dandelion, chicory, and cattail roots Black walnuts and wild hazelnuts Prickly pear cactus fruit and pads Blackberries, elderberries,
manzanita berries, and madrone berries.
Foraged items from Coby Liebman’s walk through the Bohemia Preserve. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)Manazanita berries. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
Plein Air Painter Sergio Lopez
Some take their time strolling through Healdsburg Ridge Open Space Preserve, stopping at Fox Pond to take in the peninsulas of green lily pads bobbing on its surface, or admiring the way the sunlight dapples the path in the oak woodlands. Not painter Sergio Lopez. He strides purposefully up the trail, clad in a T-shirt, jeans, and sun hat, taking several turns and making a beeline through a meadow before stopping on a rise beneath a leafy black oak. Lopez smiles broadly. He’s arrived.
Before him, the trees open up to a panorama of oak-dotted hills, with bluer peaks fading behind them. A patchwork of fields and vineyards unfolds in the foreground, with the clear-blue Russian River snaking alongside. It looks like something out of a painting. And, soon, it will be.
Plein air painter Sergio Lopez uses Tolay Regional Park in Lakeville as a backdrop for one of his paintings. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
Plein air painter Sergio Lopez uses Tolay Regional Park in Lakeville as a backdrop for one of his paintings. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
“This spot has a lot of what I like,” Lopez explains, as he adjusts his paint-spattered tripod. “It’s a vista with a lot of layers; every grouping of hills has its own way of being depicted in paint.” He opens his homemade field box, grabs tubes of gouache, and unzips a case of brushes, laid out with surgical precision. “I like the shapes the trees make, and I kind of like the vineyards, too, the geometry of them. Then, of course, the river’s right there. It’s got a little bit of everything.”
Lopez came to this work after a career as a professional illustrator. “Plein air painting has given me a reason to explore the world,” Lopez says. “Not only the whole world, but the world around me here, that I live in and interact with all the time.” Though he’s painted all over the country, Lopez, who was born in Santa Rosa, often gravitates toward home, particularly the west county. “I don’t think I’ll ever get tired of painting the coast. It’s just ever-changing. You could go to the same place every day of the week, and it’ll have a different feeling to it.”
Painting has given me a reason to explore the world. Not only the whole world, but the world around me here, that I live in and interact with all the time.
This sunny afternoon has an easygoing feeling to it. A lone hawk circles below; to the left, three butterflies flutter among the shrubs. On Lopez’s sketchpad, the scene has begun to emerge: first in ghostly outlines, then in blocky shapes. He remains focused on the landscape, playing out a rhythm of his own: wetting his brush, tapping it dry, painting, mixing, painting, mixing, eyes flicking between landscape and painting.
As a breeze rustles the leaves overhead, Lopez squints into the distance, then puts the final touches on the painting: a set of tiny barns at the juncture between a green field and geometric rows of vines. The result is breathtaking, conveying a rainbow of colors bursting from the hills and the drama of the river as it emerges. “Art gets people to look at the world differently,” Lopez says. “A good artist can change your perception of things, get you to look at the subject in a more appreciative way.”
And so he has.
— Megan McCrea
Heading Out
What to use: Lopez says gouache is a good medium for beginners because it’s easy to set up and use, with a quicker learning curve than other types of media. Once you feel confident about working with your materials, he says, “find something you feel like you can tackle in a small, simple way. Find a quiet park or a tree to sketch. You don’t have to go out to the coast and try to paint waves.”
Classes: Lopez, who exhibits his work at Christopher Queen Galleries in Duncans Mills, teaches an 8-week online course for beginning gouache painters. $130, sergiolopezfineart.com.
Groups: The Sonoma Plein Air Foundation sponsors a plein air painting festival in September. sonomapleinair.com.
Tiffani Canevari, a trainer and climbing coach, is part of a growing field of female athletes reaching new limits in the sport. (Jerry Dodrill)
Boulderer Tiffani Canevari
“Bouldering is like a puzzle,” says Tiffani Canevari. But unlike the puzzles we’ve reacquainted ourselves with this past year, Canevari must find the next piece while dangling from a rock, in some cases holding on with just one hand. “You are piecing together strength, hand position, body position, and mental fortitude, and just a small deviation in any of these can be the difference between falling and completing the route,” she says.
There are no ropes or harnesses in bouldering. It’s a type of free climbing done on rock formations just a few feet off the ground—but that doesn’t mean it’s not difficult. Bouldering allows athletes to pack harder moves into shorter climbs — difficult moves they wouldn’t be able to sustain if they were scaling a more towering feature. Canevari, a physical trainer and coach at the Santa Rosa climbing gym Vertex, is constantly working to hone her skills. She spent about five years working on one bouldering route near Salt Point State Park. “That feeling of accomplishment is worth every failure along the way,” she says without hesitation.
Boulderer Tiffani Canavari. (Jerry Dodrill)
On a breezy afternoon, she stares for a moment, standing in front of the Sunset Boulders near Goat Rock Beach. With the sound of the ocean crashing in the distance, she contemplates the challenge ahead. Her chalk-covered fingers and feet work in a skilled and coordinated harmony to find their way from one crevice in the rock to the next. Canevari moves like a crab, methodically reaching and swinging her body in her quest to make it to the top. Safety is important: A spotter stands at the ready, and below her, the ground is covered with a collection of colorful crash pads to help protect her from injury if she falls.
“It’s a very humbling sport,” says Canevari. “When it comes down to it, it’s just you and the boulder and no amount of wishing and wanting will get you up it. You just have to perform.”
In Sonoma County, bouldering spots are scattered, mainly along the coast. “It gets you out in nature,” says Canevari. “There are places I’ve traveled to and remote wilderness locations I’ve hiked to that I never would have experienced it if wasn’t for bouldering.”
— Dana Rebmann
Heading Out
Beginner classes: Canevari recommends starting in a gym to build strength. Vertex in Santa Rosa offers beginner climbing and safety classes. 707573-1608, climbvertex.com Session Climbing, owned by local climber Kevin Jorgeson, known for his free climb of Yosemite’s Dawn Wall, is opening soon. sessionclimbing.com.
Clubs: Santa Rosa’s Rock, Ice and Mountain Club (on Facebook @ RockIceMountainClub) meets monthly to talk climbing and plan trips.
Where to go: Popular destinations include Sugarloaf Ridge State Park and Sonoma Coast State Beach. Climbers trade crowdsourced tips and route information on mountainproject.com. Canevari recommends the book Bay Area Bouldering by Chris Summit for detailed info on local climbs.
Bay Area writer Chase Reynolds Ewald knows when a design topic is ready for its own coffee-table book. Ewald recently teamed up with Heather Sandy Hebert, a fellow writer who has worked at architectural firms throughout the Bay Area, to craft “At Home in the Wine Country: Architecture & Design in the California Vineyards,” a new book that showcases spectacular homes in Sonoma and Napa counties.
From contemporary farmhouse-style properties to ultra-modern residences, the homes featured in “At Home in Wine Country” pay homage to the prized setting they inhabit as they blend into the surrounding natural landscape by means of a “restrained approach to architecture,” according to Ewald.
This approach to architecture can be seen in the seamless connection between indoor and outdoor spaces throughout these properties: expansive, unadorned windows frame outdoor views while subdued color palettes give focus to surrounding vineyards and rolling hills. Hebert predicts this focus on connecting indoor and outdoor living spaces will continue in the world of design and architecture as homeowners try to create year-round outdoor areas for social gatherings in the wake of the pandemic.
To make homes blend with the surrounding area, the architects behind the book’s properties have paid close attention to the topography and colors of the landscape. If a property is to be located on a hillside, for example, they will build into the contours of the hills, says Ewald. And the color palettes will emulate the colors of the natural landscape or contrast — in black and white — in a way that showcases the nature rather than the house. A Black Box home in Napa, for example, might seem at first glance a radical exercise in modern design but Hebert points out that the architect’s intent was to make the building “disappear” into the afternoon shadows cast by the trees.
“At Home in Wine Country” features both exterior and interior shots of stunning homes as well as design details such as creative countertop stylings using pottery, textiles and natural elements, and garden landscaping that is beautiful, drought-tolerant and fire safe. While the book offers plenty of information and advice to prospective home builders, it’s perhaps primarily a celebration of architecture as an art form. Readers will no doubt pick out their dream homes and favorite design details among the properties featured in the book. Ewald, who grew up in Vermont, prefers a modern farmhouse “warmed up” with rustic elements while Hebert adores the “Nana windows,” a folding wall of windows that opens up toward the outdoors. Click through the above gallery to take a peek at some of the properties featured in the book and pick your own favorite.
“At Home in the Wine Country: Architecture & Design in the California Vineyards” is available August 24, 2021 and can be purchased online.