Close-up of a glass of white wine on a wooden table, with green vineyards in the background. Wine tasting, rating, and savoring Mazur Travel/Shutterstock.
Fact: Nearly all grapes have pale-colored pulp inside, even red grapes.
Red wines become red not because of the color of the juice inside the grapes but because of the skins on the outside. When red grapes are crushed and fermented with their outer skins to make a red wine, the heat of that fermentation extracts red color and flavors. Take away those outer skins, and those characteristics no longer play a part in the final wine. In other words, it is possible to make a white wine out of red grapes.
It’s not a new concept. Winemakers have been doing this for ages. In fact, two out of the three main varieties used to make Champagne, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, are red. But leaving the red skins behind to make still white wines from reds is a more recent trend.
Emeritus Vineyards’ Mari Jones was the driving force behind the winery’s white Pinot Noir, produced from its famed Hallberg Ranch. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)Shalini Sekhar, winemaker and owner of Ottavino Wines, with a glass of Ottavino 2022 St. Laurent at Sonoma’s Ricci Vineyards. Sekhar has been experimenting with making still white wines from Pinot Noir — essentially a sparkling wine without the fizz. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
But more recently, Cindy Cosco of Sonoma’s Passaggio Wines has been experimenting with making still white wines from rustic Italian reds like Nebbiolo and Sangiovese.
When Cosco founded the label in 2007, her intent was to be a white wine producer. She’s also made some fantastic reds over the years, but the 2024 portfolio is once again focused primarily on whites. “I’ve come full circle,” she said — but in a more unique and interesting way than she ever thought.
Cindy Cosco, of Sonoma’s Passaggio Wines, is making white wines from Italian and French red grapes. (Passaggio Wines)
Cosco’s first foray into these whites-from-reds was a happy accident.
“I had done a Cab Franc Blanc for a friend back in 2018 — it was supposed to be a rosé, but it came out white. He sold out, people loved it so much,” she said. “So, I thought, I’ll try it again, but on purpose. And if this last year taught me anything, it’s that people are looking for something different. When you tell them you have a white red, it creates interest.”
Winemakers like Cosco and Jones tweak the production process when working a red into a white wine. The grapes are picked earlier, fermentation temperatures are lower and the winemaking is done in neutral, stainless-steel vessels — no oak. The result is a lighter, higher acid, lower alcohol version of their red-expression counterparts, perfect for sipping on the patio on a spring afternoon.
A bottle of Emeritus Vineyards Hallberg Blanc Pinot Noir in Sebastopol, Wednesday, Sept. 13, 2023. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)A small selection of Passaggio Wines, in the tasting room at Jack London Village in Glen Ellen. (Robbi Pengelly/Index-Tribune)
Passaggio Wines 2024 Sangiovese Bianco, $29
“When you taste it blind, you’d never know it was a red, but you definitely wouldn’t know what kind of white wine it is,” says Cosco. The surprise, she comments, is how the grape’s innate florality shines through — maybe even more so from the delicate winemaking process.
Passaggio Wines 2024 Cabernet Franc Blanc, $30
Just a delicate nod to the red wine original, Passaggio’s Cab Franc Blanc is layered with subtle herbaceous notes and red-berry fruits, lifted by a bright, vibrant acidity.
Passaggio Wines 2024 White Nebbiolo, $29
“Tar and roses” is a common descriptor for this native Piemonte red wine that typically reaches alcohol levels of 14% or above. While the nose gives a little wink to white roses, the palate blooms with juicy just-ripe white plums and strawberries, balanced by a lean 12.9% alcohol by volume (ABV). “Pair with seafood or white pasta dishes,” advises Cosco.
Passaggio Wines, 14301 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen, 707-719-9813, passaggiowines.com
At Donum Estates, Anne Moller-Racke takes in the view of the Carneros wine growing region, Friday Nov. 1, 2013, east of Sonoma. (Kent Porter / Press Democrat)
In a recent Wine Enthusiast feature, eight women from around the globe were celebrated for their innovative work in the wine industry. Of those, three are based in Wine Country, helping lead the charge in reshaping an industry traditionally dominated by men.
These women’s groundbreaking work not only influences our local wine culture, but also contributes to a larger, global movement toward change and inclusivity in winemaking. Find more of our favorite women in the local wine industry here.
Cathy Corison, Corison Winery
Cathy Corison works in the Corison Vineyard in Napa Valley. (Chicago Tribune/MCT)
Cathy Corison has been a pioneer in artisanal winemaking for over three decades. When she entered the wine industry in 1972, women were a rarity in the field, but she quickly proved herself by earning a master’s degree in oenology from UC Davis. After gaining experience at various California wineries, she went on to co-found Corison Winery with her husband.
Known for producing wines that emphasize the power and elegance of Cabernet Sauvignon, as well as the subtlety of Cabernet Franc, Corison’s creations stand out for their refined qualities and balance. What shines through the most in Corison’s wines is her ongoing commitment to innovation. From adjusting acidity levels to experimenting with electric tractors, Corison is constantly pushing the boundaries of sustainable winemaking.
987 St. Helena Highway, St. Helena, 707-963-0826, corison.com
Anne Moller-Racke, Blue Farm
Anne Moller-Racke of Blue Farm Wines in Sonoma. (Kassie Borreson)
Anne Moller-Racke’s journey in the wine industry has been marked by groundbreaking work and a deep connection to California’s wine culture. Originally from Oberwesel, Germany, Moller-Racke arrived in California in 1981. Her first major role was becoming the vineyard manager for Buena Vista Carneros Winery. There, she helped Los Carneros gain recognition as an American Viticultural Area (AVA).
In 2001, Moller-Racke founded The Donum Estate, where she served as president and winegrower, further establishing her reputation in the industry. While growing the Donum brand, she started a personal project at her home, planting seven acres of Pinot Noir. This humble beginning evolved into Blue Farm Wines, a boutique vineyard now known as one of California’s finest. In 2019, Moller-Racke shifted her focus entirely to Blue Farm, leaving Donum to invest her energy in her new pursuit.
Former Gary Farrell winemaker Theresa Heredia on Thursday, July 13, 2023. Heredia has since launched her own wine consultant business. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Theresa Heredia’s passion for wine began with her chemistry background and was deepened by her early travels through France’s renowned wine regions. Her first internship at Saintsbury Winery in Napa’s Los Carneros set the stage for a career focused on cool-climate grapes. She further honed her skills as a winemaker at Freestone Vineyards in Sonoma.
In 2012, Heredia brought her expertise to Gary Farrell Winery as a winemaker, specializing in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. She served as the director of winemaking, leading the production of wines that highlight the unique characteristics of the vineyards. Heredia left Gary Farrell in May 2024 to start her own wine consultant business, Heredia Wine Consulting, where she offers guidance to wineries on everything from grape sourcing to winemaking protocols.
Service areas in Sonoma County and beyond. herwineco.com
3/20/2014: B1:
PC: Malisa Bruno turns a cartwheel while frolicking in a field of mustard at the Brown Farm, in Santa Rosa on Wednesday, March 19, 2014. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)
Following winter rains, mustard flowers turn Sonoma County vineyards and valleys a vibrant yellow, adding a pop of color to the local landscape and to Instagram feeds.
If you’d like to take in the scenery or capture it with your camera or smartphone, we’ve listed some of our favorite public places for mustard flower appreciation. To make sure you are satisfied in true Sonoma style, we’ve also included nearby places for a bite and a glass of wine.
Please be mindful of plants and wildlife and respectful of private property — no trespassing, of course.
A vineyard workers sprays back mustard weed at the Alexander Valley Vineyards, Saturday, Feb. 11, 2023. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
Alexander Valley
Sonoma County’s Alexander Valley abounds with mustard flowers in late winter and early spring. Just after you turn from Alexander Valley Road onto Highway 128, both sides of the road are covered in bright yellow flowers.
Sonoma Valley
B.R. Cohn Winery’s iconic “mustard flower hill” turns yellow and white during spring, offering a gorgeous view during a drive down Highway 12 in Sonoma Valley. Just make sure to keep an eye on the road when driving past. Stop by the winery for a glass of Chardonnay. 15000 Sonoma Highway, Glen Ellen, 707-938-4064, brcohn.com
Early morning sun filters on to the B.R. Cohn vineyards fronting Highway 12 in Glen Ellen. At left is Sonoma Mountain. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)An old vine at Kunde Family Winery in Kenwood is surrounded by mustard in bloom. (Rebecca Gosselin/for Sonoma Magazine)
Kunde Family Winery in Kenwood is covered in mustard flowers come February and March. Stop by Palooza Gastropub for craft beer and pub bites on their expansive patio. 9825 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, 707-833-5501, kunde.com
Santa Rosa and Russian River Valley
The Joe Rodota Regional Trailbetween downtown Santa Rosa and Sebastopol borders yellow mustard fields in late winter/early spring. Stop alongside the road for some photos (please note that properties bordering the trail are private). Take the family for a bike ride to Sebastopol and stop by The Barlow for a snack or drink.
At Paradise Ridge Winery in Santa Rosa, watch outdoor sculptures surrounded by mustard in bloom. Then sip wine paired with small bites on the winery veranda. 4545 Thomas Lake Harris Drive, Santa Rosa, 707-528-9463, prwinery.com
A portion of the art installation Empyrean, by Laurence Renzo Verbeck and Sylvia Adrienne Lisse, on a mustard-covered hillside at Paradise Ridge Winery in Santa Rosa. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)
Imwalle Gardens on Third Street in Santa Rosa is a small family-owned market surrounded by homes and, during spring, fields of mustard flowers. Pick up some picnic provisions at the market or flower starters for your garden. The mustard flowers grow on private property so please keep your distance. 685 W. Third St., Santa Rosa, 707-546-0279, facebook.com/p/Imwalle-Gardens-100057055376943
Laguna Environmental Center, located off Occidental Road near Sebastopol, is a good spot for mustard flower appreciation. During heavy rains, the area tends to flood, but across the street from the Laguna de Santa Rosa, the mustard flowers shine brightly. After admiring the mustard flowers, head to Balletto Vineyards for some sparkling brut rosé on the patio. 900 Sanford Road, Santa Rosa, 707-527-9277, lagunadesantarosa.org
Mustard highlights the sunset at the Laguna Center near Sebastopol. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)At Gloria Ferrer Vineyards, you can enjoy sparkling wines and Spanish tapas on a terrace overlooking mustard fields. (Gloria Ferrer Vineyards)
Carneros Valley
Sonoma’s Carneros Valley has a cooler climate than other parts of the county, making it perfect for Pinot Noir and mustard flowers. The best view of the valley is from Gloria Ferrer Vineyards, where you can enjoy sparkling wines and Spanish tapas on a terrace overlooking mustard fields. 23555 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, 707-933-1986, gloriaferrer.com
Petaluma Gap and Sonoma Coast
In your search for mustard flowers, take a drive out to Dillon Beach on the Sonoma Coast. On Tomales Road in Petaluma, you will be able to enjoy a serene countryside landscape blanketed in mustard flowers and dotted with dairy farms. Make a pit stop at Petaluma Creamery in downtown Petaluma (711 Western Ave.) for some Spring Hill cheese curds before you head to the ocean.
Storm clouds hang over a field of mustard blooming along Hardin Lane in Petaluma. (Beth Schlanker/ The Press Democrat)Mounts Family Winery vineyard worker Maria Santian prunes wine grapes in the west Dry Creek Valley amid a cover crop of mustard near Healdsburg. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
Dry Creek Valley
West Dry Creek Valley Road offers more of an intimate country road experience than that of its parallel road, Dry Creek Valley Road. You can view mustard flowers along the road in late winter/early spring. With less cars on the road, it is a more relaxing route to travel — especially on bike. Visit Quivira Vineyards for wine and learn how bees pollinate the plants in their organic garden. Continue to Martorana Family Winery & Vineyards for a glass of Zin and Mounts Family Vineyards for breathtaking valley views and a glass of Grenache.
Grabbing a beer with your mushroom purveyor is a point of pride for many Sonoma County chefs. And while high-profile, Michelin-favored restaurants get plenty of love for their agricultural ethos, there are also lots of neighborhood restaurateurs who wouldn’t go within 10 feet of factory-farmed, well, anything. Here’s a shoutout to a few of my farm-friendliest favorites.
The Priestess of Produce: Lunchette
Naomi Crawford doesn’t just source locally — she’s a superfan of local farms and ranches. Her Instagram (@lunchette_petaluma) is a daily reminder of the incredible bounty of Sonoma County. 25 Fourth St., Petaluma. 707-241-7443, lunchettepetaluma.com
Some of the many locally sourced dishes at Lunchette in Petaluma. Chef-owner Naomi Crawford sources from local farms and ranches. (Houston Porter / Petaluma Argus-Courier)The Handline “El Coronado” taco with beer battered fired rockfish, shaved cabbage, chipotle aioli, avocado and lime. Seasonal veggie dishes don’t take a back seat here, carefully sourced from local farms. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Sea to Table: Handline
You’ll be hard-pressed to find fresher fish tacos, citrusy ceviche and raw oysters than at this casual Sebastopol café. Seasonal veggie dishes don’t take a back seat, carefully sourced from a who’s who of local farmers. Worth a pilgrimage in summer, too, for their sweet elote. 935 Gravenstein Highway S., Sebastopol. 707-827-3744, handline.com
Classic Comfort: Americana
Burgers, shakes and piles of pancakes are almost virtuous, with painstakingly sourced Sonoma-centric ingredients at two locations. Even the mimosas get seasonal fruit infusions. 205 Fifth St., Santa Rosa, 707-755-1548; 162 N. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-827-3309. americanasonomacounty.com
Crab cakes and seared steak with sides from the dinner menu at Americana in Santa Rosa April 13, 2023. The painstakingly sourced Sonoma-centric ingredients come from local farms. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)Almond Olive Oil Cake with tangerines, orange blossom yogurt and a drizzle of tangerine tarragon syrup from The Redwood chef/co-owner Geneva Melby in Sebastopol. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Natural Pairing: The Redwood
This Sebastopol wine bar is all about not messing with what nature provides, both with the low-intervention wine list and the Mediterranean-inspired menu. Liberty Duck liver mousse, smoked black cod dip with yogurt and potato chips and warm pita bread with smoky baba ghanoush are best bets. 234 S. Main St., Sebastopol. 707-861-9730, theredwoodwine.com
Snail Approved: The Spinster Sisters
One of just a handful of local chefs awarded Slow Food’s Snail of Approval, Liza Hinman walks the walk of sustainable Sonoma County ingredients cooked with care. Even a simple side of beans and greens is magical. 401 S. A St., Santa Rosa. 707-528-7100, thespinstersisters.com
Carrot Hummus with a drizzle of olive oil from chef Liza Hinman, owner of the Spinster Sisters restaurant in Santa Rosa, Thursday, Feb. 22, 2024. Hinman’s restaurant, Santa Rosa’s Spinster Sisters, recently received a “Snail of Approval” from Slow Food. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)A dish at Glen Ellen Star in Glen Ellen. Most of the produce here is sourced from Glentucky Family Farm. (Sonoma County Tourism)
All in the Family: Glen Ellen Star
Most of the produce at chef Ari Weiswasser’s popular bistro comes from his father-in-law Mike Benziger’s Glentucky Family Farm just up the hill. You can’t get more local than that. 13648 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen. 707-343-1384, glenellenstar.com
From left, fried Rhode Island calamari, tuna carpaccio with nectarine and arugula, and the whole-roasted orata fish at Scala Osteria in Napa, Wednesday, September 6, 2023. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Curious where diners are booking in Wine Country? OpenTable recently announced the 10 most booked restaurants in the region, based on thousands of restaurant reviews from the past month.
These top spots in Sonoma and Napa counties are the most in-demand, according to reservations made through OpenTable.
Sonoma County
the girl & the fig, Sonoma
A longtime favorite in Wine Country, the girl & the fig has made its mark with seasonal, Provencal-inspired cuisine featuring farm-fresh vegetables and herbs. For over two decades, it has been a go-to spot for both locals and visitors seeking rustic yet refined dining. 110 West Spain St., 707-938-3634, thegirlandthefig.com
Fig and arugula salad at the girl & the fig in Sonoma. (Alvin Jornada/The Press Democrat)Southern Fried Chicken with garlic smashed potatoes, slaw, braised greens and a biscuit from Sweet T’s Restaurant + Bar in Windsor. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Sweet T’s Restaurant + Bar, Windsor
Offering a charming dining experience with Southern-inspired food and friendly service, Sweet T’s is known for its fried chicken, generous portions and specialty cocktails. Popular with both locals and tourists, the lively ambiance adds to the appeal, while the patio provides a more relaxed dining option. Reservations are recommended. 9098 Brooks Road S., 707-687-5185,sweettssouthern.com
El Dorado Kitchen, Sonoma
Featuring award-winning cuisine crafted with local, seasonal ingredients, El Dorado Kitchen offers a cozy dining experience for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The Sonoma restaurant offers indoor and outdoor seating, perfect for enjoying the fresh California cuisine in a pleasant setting. 405 First St. W., 707-996-3030,eldoradokitchen.com
Napa County
Bistro Don Giovanni has been operating as a Napa staple restaurant since 1993. The restaurant serves classic Italian food made with fresh, local California ingredients. (Amy Little Photography)
Bistro Don Giovanni, Napa
This Mediterranean-inspired eatery offers a warm, inviting atmosphere paired with fresh Italian fare. Chef Scott Warner’s menu features locally sourced ingredients, with signature dishes like freshly baked bread, housemade pastas and grilled meats. The bar boasts an extensive selection of Napa Valley wines. 4110 Howard Lane, 707-224-3300,bistrodongiovanni.com
RH Restaurant, Yountville
Located in the heart of Napa Valley, RH Restaurant combines food, wine, art and design in an elegant yet relaxed environment. The menu of refined American classics is complemented by a curated selection of artisanal wines and craft beers. Diners can enjoy a peaceful, indoor-outdoor experience surrounded by fountains and olive trees. 6725 Washington St., 707-339-4654, rh.com/us/en/yountville/restaurant
Part of the five-building RH Yountville compound in Napa Valley, the restaurant seeks to integrate food, wine, art and design. It also features the RH Wine Vault. (Courtesy of RH Restaurant)Fried Rhode Island calamari at Scala Osteria in Napa, Wednesday, Sept. 6, 2023. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Scala Osteria, Napa
A tribute to traditional Southern Italian cuisine, Scala Osteria serves seafood-centric dishes and Neapolitan-style pizzas in a lively, inviting space. Enjoy a quick bite at the oyster bar or a leisurely meal with friends, complete with a perfect wine pairing. 1141 First St., 707-637-4380,scalaosteria.com
Cassoulet with baked beans, duck confit, sausage & Nueske’s apple smoked bacon from Bistro Jeanty, Dec. 19, 2024. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)Profiteroles with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce from Bistro Jeanty in Yountville, Dec. 19, 2024. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Bistro Jeanty, Yountville
One of the only French-owned and operated restaurants in Napa Valley, Bistro Jeanty offers an authentic French bistro experience. Classic dishes like chef-owner Philippe Jeanty’s famous tomato soup and mussels au vin rouge transport diners to the heart of France, all while enjoying a warm, casual ambiance. 6510 Washington St., 707-944-0103, bistrojeanty.com
Pollo alla Diavola sul Mattone, Calabrian marinated chicken with roasted Shishito peppers and cipollini onions at Bottega on Monday, May 11, 2015, in Yountville. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Bottega Napa Valley, Yountville
Chef Michael Chiarello’s farm-to-table Italian cuisine takes center stage at Bottega Napa Valley. With seasonal dishes reflecting Chiarello’s culinary roots and sustainably produced ingredients from Napa Valley, diners enjoy a rich menu complemented by an extensive wine list featuring both local and Italian selections. 6526 Washington St., 707-945-1050,botteganapavalley.com
Mustards Grill, Yountville
A beloved Napa Valley destination for over 35 years, Mustards Grill offers a diverse menu featuring American regional dishes with global influences. The wood-burning grill produces favorites like Mongolian pork chop and barbecue baby back ribs. An eclectic wine list includes selections from Napa, Sonoma and beyond. 7399 St. Helena Highway, 707-944-2424,mustardsgrill.com
Cole’s Chop House, Napa
A sophisticated steakhouse in the heart of Napa, Cole’s Chop House serves 21-day dry-aged steaks and other premium cuts of meat, paired with hand-selected bourbons and an extensive wine list. The elegant setting and attentive service make it a prime destination for steak lovers. 1122 Main St., 707-224-6328,coleschophouse.com
Wild lupines in a meadow. (Alyona Shu/Shutterstock)
From Bodega Head to the Mayacamas, Sonoma is home to 19 lupine species in the wild. And the state of California has more than 70 natives, flowering in a rainbow of colors. Which one you envision when you close your eyes — blue or yellow, perennial or annual — probably depends on where you live, where you look and what’s in your yard, says Josh Williams, native plant expert and owner of California Flora Nursery in Fulton.
In any case, we needn’t rely on imagination alone: the annual lupine bloom is imminent.
Sky lupines, which grow throughout Sonoma County, are an annual species, meaning they live their life in a single season, then reseed. They’re a compact, low-growing plant with distinctive leaves like outstretched fingers and, beginning in late March, striking blue-to-purple flowers. “It’s the classic one that everyone takes pictures of, carpeting grasslands in spring,” Williams says.
A bumble bee buzzes to the next spring sky lupine at Sonoma Valley Regional Park in Glen Ellen. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)Coastal bush lupine is the largest of the local lupine species. It’s found in sandy coastal areas that don’t get too cold in winter. (Richard OD / Shutterstock)
Coastal bush lupine, a vigorous perennial with yellow flowers and a woody base, grows several feet tall. It’s the largest of the local lupine species, Williams explains, and it’s found in sandy coastal areas that don’t get too cold in winter. It blooms a little later than some other types of lupines, but the blooms last longer. Sonoma is at the northern edge of its native range.
Silver bush lupine has a shrublike structure and silvery, hairy leaves, with beautiful blue flowers that appear above the foliage. In the wild, it prefers drier, hotter, rockier sites. It’s probably Cal Flora’s best-selling lupine, Williams says — though in home gardens, it needs well-drained soils and can do poorly if overwatered.
The tall, dense flower spikes of bigleaf lupine are a coveted landscaping plant around the world. Preferring moist wetland and riparian areas, it’s rare and somewhat confined here in Sonoma County, but considered invasive in parts of Europe and the eastern U.S.
Silver lupine in Nancy Lloyd and Michael Princevalle’s Hummingbird Haven habitat garden in Cloverdale. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)Josh Williams, owner of California Flora Nursery, trims native plants while making the rounds at the nursery in Fulton. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Williams likes to highlight one more Sonoma native, the rare Cobb Mountain lupine, with large, felted leaves and chunky lavender-blue flowers. “It sits fairly low to the ground, but its big flowers and foliage make it really striking. Not a lot of people know about it, but when they see it in the nursery, they tend to love it,” he says.
That sentiment, in fact, captures the magic of all of our spring lupines, no matter the form or locale: To see them in bloom is to love them.
Four common species of lupines — and where to see them
Sky lupine (Lupinus nanus): Along west-facing grassland trails, including the Cobblestone Trail in Trione-Annadel State Park.
At Hendry Ranch, wooden tables dot a large patio overlooking the vines, inviting guests to slow down and get comfortable. (Hendry Ranch)
Napa is justifiably famous for its Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, but in the region’s early days — before skyrocketing land prices made it practically impossible to justify growing grapes that didn’t command the highest prices — the valley’s offerings went far beyond the “king” and “queen” of noble grapes. Hendry Ranch offers a welcome taste of variety on a charming estate at the foot of Mt. Veeder, farmed by the same family for more than 85 years.
The story
Hendry Ranch got its start in 1939, when agronomy professor George W. Hendry bought a 200-acre property in Napa and moved there with his wife Margaret. When George died just five years later, Margaret took over managing the farm, growing plums, walnuts and grapes — all while raising their two children. Having grown up on the family ranch, their son George O. Hendry followed a somewhat unexpected career path: He became a designer of cyclotrons used in medical imaging. Any free time he had, he spent working on the farm.
George O. Hendry, of Hendry Ranch, followed a somewhat unexpected career path: He became a designer of cyclotrons used in medical imaging. Any free time he had, he spent working on the farm. (Hendry Ranch)
By the early 1970s, with Napa’s wine industry on the rise, Hendry realized he could make more money selling wine grapes than he would bring in with prunes and walnuts. He replanted most of the ranch to grapes, starting with Zinfandel and Pinot Noir, and began selling the fruit to Robert Mondavi and Kent Rosenblum. He made his first wine in 1992 and built the winery eight years later.
Mike Hendry manages the ranch’s 114 acres of vines, including many grape varieties you don’t often find in Cabernet-centric Napa these days. (Hendry Ranch)
Hendry — now in his 80s — still lives on the property, just a short walk from the winery. His nephew, Mike Hendry, manages the ranch’s 114 acres of vines, including many grape varieties you don’t often find in Cabernet-centric Napa these days, like Primitivo, Albariño and a tiny bit of Mission.
The vibe
Driving through residential Browns Valley, most people wouldn’t expect to find a vineyard estate. Look for the understated sign that marks the entrance to Hendry Ranch, then drive past George Hendry’s big white house to the brown tasting room building.
Hendry Ranch offers a welcome taste of variety on a charming estate at the foot of Mt. Veeder, farmed by the same family for more than 85 years. (Hendry Ranch)
Wooden tables dot a large patio overlooking the vines, inviting guests to slow down and get comfortable. The bright and airy indoor space, decorated with warm wood accents and Hendry family artifacts, includes various rooms for seated tastings. Hendry often pops in to say hello, accompanied by Gracie, his sweet Chihuahua mix.
On the palate
Hendry grows a dozen grape varieties, so there’s a lot to explore. Albariño has recently become “a thing” in the U.S., but you won’t find many made in Napa Valley. George Hendry was way ahead of the curve, planting it on the ranch in 1997.
Hendry’s 2023 Albariño ($28) is a lively summer sipper with peachy notes. (Hendry Ranch)
Hendry’s 2023 Albariño ($28) is a lively summer sipper with peachy notes. It’s fun to compare the 2023 Unoaked Chardonnay ($28) and 2023 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay ($40). The wines are made with the same grapes and share a tangy green apple profile, but the oak adds soft vanilla aromas and a creamy texture. A standout among the reds is the elegant 2021 Primitivo ($42) with its cherry-berry flavors.
A standout among the reds is the elegant 2021 Primitivo with its cherry-berry flavors. (Hendry Ranch)
Tastings range from $50 for a red wine flight to $75 for a mixed tasting to $100 for a flight of reserve wines. (All fees are waived with an equivalent wine purchase.) Because appointments are private affairs with an expert guide, the tasting lineups often vary according to guests’ interests. You might even get a quick lesson in grafting grape vines.
Beyond the bottle
I love a gourmet market, and locally owned Browns Valley Market is a neighborhood gem. It’s known for its meat section, so this is the place to grab steaks or a marinated tri-tip to pair with Hendry’s excellent Zinfandel or Cabernet Franc. The deli offers a terrific selection of grill-and-go panini to take along on a Wine Country picnic.
3104 Redwood Road, Napa, 707-226-8320. Tastings daily by appointment. hendrywines.com
Tina Caputo is a wine, food and travel writer whose work has appeared in numerous publications, including SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, HuffPost and Sonoma magazine. Follow Tina on Twitter @winebroad, view her website at tinacaputo.com and email her story ideas at tina@caputocontent.com.
Housemade ravioli with marinara and pesto from Canevari’s Deli Friday, March 14, 2025, hidden in the Santa Rosa’s JC neighborhood. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Sonoma County was built on red wine and ravioli.
As the chosen home of thousands of Italian immigrants in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the simple food and wine of their homeland became the basis for a flourishing economy, and family names like Bacigalupi, Bastoni, Pedroncelli, Seghesio, Traverso and Martinelli have continued to power that engine.
The Canevaris are part of that local history, selling their cheese and meat-filled ravioli to Mary’s Pizza Shack and nearly every supermarket from San Francisco to the Oregon border — or so the story goes.
The tiny ravioli factory founded in 1929 by Atillio Canevari and later run by his son, Edwin, still sells freshly made ravioli (the original recipe) but has expanded into a popular Italian deli under current owner Lou Chambrone (formerly of Sweet Lou’s in Cotati).
Owner Lou Chambrone with the popular Italian Meatball Sandwich in front of Canevari’s Deli Friday, March 14, 2025, hidden in the Santa Rosa’s JC neighborhood. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
A hale and hearty paisan, Chambrone has upped Canevari’s game with fat Italian-style subs, his recipes for lasagna, creamy tiramisu, polenta and dozens of other dishes that show up as daily specials on the handwritten signs outside the deli.
And it’s those idiosyncratic signs with their wobbly handwriting that Chambrone credits for his ongoing success. The deli sits on Lewis Road, a busy thoroughfare extending from Steele Lane to a nearby residential area.
“People would come by and say they’ve driven by here for 10 years and never stopped. It just catches people’s eyes,” he said. Now, they come in out of curiosity or rumbling tummies on their way home from work to see the specials, he added.
The Canevari’s Deli case is loaded with salads, desserts, polenta, lasagna and more Friday, March 14, 2025, in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
The signs are so iconic that a friend made a computer font out of his handwriting — you’ll see it on half a dozen or more signs inside the deli. But Chambrone still likes to write the signs outside himself.
While talking with Chambrone, a line of DoorDash drivers and catering pickups start extending toward the counter. “It’s raining. People are ordering in,” he said. The line continues to grow until it’s nearly out the door.
Excusing himself and heading to the prep area, he dives in to help his small staff.
“I’ll be right with you all. Now, who’s next?”
Fun fact
Chambrone’s son, Dominic Ciambrone, creates bespoke sneakers and footwear for celebrities that start at $5,000. He created a special pair of kicks with red checkered cloth, green trim and tiny ravioli on the laces inspired by Canevari’s. You can see them at the deli.
The vibe
Chambrone and his son Dominic recently renovated the Santa Rosa deli, giving it a warm and inviting feel while keeping the historic charm. The affable Chambrone loves collaborating with other local restaurants and most recently did a special “Cubano Cannelloni” with Carlos Mojica of Guiso Latin Fusion.
Canevari’s Deli is a historic Italian joint that serves up classic sandwiches, ravioli and other casual eats in their tiny place Friday, March 14, 2025, hidden in the Santa Rosa’s JC neighborhood. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)Canevari’s Deli sticks with tradition with their cannoli dusted with powdered sugar Friday, March 14, 2025, in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
The food
Everyone has a favorite here — from the meaty Italian sub, filled with salami, mortadella, capicola, provolone and tangy muffuletta spread, to the frozen ravioli with homemade sauce, fresh cannoli, lasagna, creamy polenta, chop salad and tiramisu. Everything is made fresh and Chambrone champions local purveyors, including Zoe’s Meats, Imwalle Gardens and Franco-American bread.
The recipes are all Chambrone’s, who has spent a lifetime in the restaurant business. “The menu is too long, but it all sells,” he said. “If I take something off, people complain.”
The perks
Though you can sit at one of several tables inside, most of Canevari’s menu is prepared to go. They’ve recently added their menu to DoorDash and Grubhub to make stuffing your face with a gabagool sub even easier.
Lou’s Chop Salad with romaine, salami, red onion, tomato, provolone, pepperoncini, olives, cucumber, and Lou’s creamy Italian dressing from Canevari’s Deli Friday, March 14, 2025, in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)The Sausage and Peppers Sandwich with a Spicy Deviled Egg from Canevari’s Deli in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
The tab
Sandwiches range from $14 to $17; Lou’s Chop Salad is $12; and spaghetti, ravioli or creamy mushroom polenta plates are $12 to $13.
The deals
Take and bake Family Platters serve a small crowd and can include ravioli, tri-tip, mesquite chicken, a loaf of garlic bread and sauce. Prices range from $47 to $75.
The service
The staff makes sandwiches lickety-split, even when there’s a line. Chambrone is usually somewhere in the mix: making sandwiches, answering the phone, ringing up customers or entertaining regulars.
Server Erika Corella carries a tray of Russian River Brewing Co.’s 20th anniversary Pliny the Younger triple IPA for guest on the first day of the limited release at the brewpub in Santa Rosa, Friday, March 22, 2024. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Pliny the Younger, Russian River Brewing Company’s super-hoppy triple India pale ale, will be released Friday, March 21. It will be available until April 3 and is expected to bring thousands of self-proclaimed beer geeks to Russian River Brewing Company’s Santa Rosa and Windsor brewpubs.
To get you primed for Pliny time, we’ve answered some of the most common questions about the coveted brew. Click through the above gallery for photos from previous Pliny releases, plus some quick facts.
Kegs of Russian River Brewing Co.’s coveted, limited-release Pliny the Younger in 2025. (Russian River Brewing Co.)
What’s the big deal?
Russian River brewmaster Vinnie Cilurzo first brewed “Younger” in 2005. At the time, it was the only beer of its kind: the first triple IPA. It is only available for a limited time at the brewery’s Santa Rosa and Windsor brewpubs. Until 2022, it was released in February. Since then, it has been released in March. (Since 2022, it has also been released to a selection of bars and restaurants before its official in-person release.) At the brewpubs, Pliny is only available on draft and is served in 10-ounce glasses. Patrons can also buy and take home bottles of the coveted beer — three bottles per guest are sold on a first come, first served basis, only available at the brewpubs.
OK, when can I get my hands on some Pliny?
Russian River Brewing Co.’s brewpubs in Santa Rosa and Windsor will be pouring Pliny from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily, March 21 through April 3. The beer will be available each day until the brewpub runs out of that day’s allocation. Pliny pilgrims can expect long waits to get into the brewpubs; lines start to form around 5 a.m. Once inside, guests are allotted two and a half hours at the pub, three “Youngers” (10-ounce pours) and three bottles of Pliny to take home.
A group of friends traveled from Germany for the first day release of Pliny the Younger triple IPA at the Russian River Brewery in Windsor. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
If Pliny is so popular, why not just make more of it?
According to Russian River Brewing, Pliny the Younger is a very time consuming and expensive beer to brew. It requires an exceptionally large amount of raw materials — malt and hops in particular — and takes up significant tank space at the brewery. In other words, it’s just not worth the money and effort to make more Pliny — especially when the limited supply seems to be working out just fine.
Is there any way to skip the line?
In 2018, for the first time in Younger history, a lucky few got to cut the line. Following the wildfires in October 2017, Russian River Brewing launched Sonoma Pride, which raised funds for fire relief efforts in part through $25 donations for a chance to win Pliny line-cutting privileges. Since then, however, there are no cuts allowed. For the best shot at a short wait, the time to come is midweek during the evening (Windsor is your best bet). But, believe it or not, a lot of people actually want to experience the line — come rain or shine — because “that’s where the event is.” But standing in lines has rules…
How do I master the line (and not get kicked out)?
No matter how pumped you are about Pliny, waiting in line for hours can be boring, and bored people do silly things. Therefore, there are rules: no smoking, no drinking, no bottle sharing (in line or inside the brewpub), no camping in front of businesses (leave your pop-up tents and easy-ups at home) and come with your entire party — don’t cut in front of people who have been waiting for hours because “your friends saved your spot;” that’s not cool.
The Russian River Brewing Co. 20th anniversary 2024 Pliny the Younger triple IPA is filtered and ready for bottles and kegs in Windsor, Monday, March 18, 2024. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
What happens once I get inside?
Russian River Brewing Company keeps track of allotted time and pours with a four-tabbed wristband — not, disappointingly, with chalk marks like meter maids. Tabs are removed as Youngers are poured; the fourth tap is for purchasing Pliny bottles. Draft pours are not transferable, but bottle allocations can be transferred to other people in your party. Inside, Plinys can be paired with pub fare. Naturally, “Pliny” bites are the most popular pick, but “Drew” bites are also worth a try. The Windsor brewpub has more food options.
What does Pliny taste like?
Pliny the Younger is a rendition of other Russian River Brewing Company favorite Pliny the Elder, except with more hops, malt and higher alcohol (the beer finishes around 10.25% AVB). The hops used in the recipe include Amarillo, Citra, Mosaic, Nectaron, Simcoe and Warrior. New to the mix this year is Tangier, a hop variety from Segal Ranch in Washington. According to those in the know (and Russian River Brewing Company’s website), it is loaded with hop flavors and is surprisingly smooth and dry for the amount of alcohol and malt.
Who is this Pliny character anyway? And how do I pronounce Pliny?
Gaius Plinius Caecilius Secundus, a.k.a Pliny the Younger, was a lawyer, author and magistrate of ancient Rome. Pliny’s uncle, Pliny the Elder (also a Russian River beer), helped raise and educate him, and later adopted him. Pliny Jr. and Pliny Sr. witnessed the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 AD, which took Pliny the Elder’s life. While most people pronounce the popular beer “ply-knee,” the “correct” Latin pronunciation is actually “plih-nee” – rhyming with “mini.”
Portrait of Pliny the Younger, on the marble retained after the Giovio palace in the city of Como, vintage engraved illustration. Magasin Pittoresque 1847. (Shutterstock)
What’s the Windsor brewery like?
The Windsor brewpub can accommodate up to 200 Pliny enthusiasts (the Santa Rosa pub’s capacity is 135). The food menu offers more options than the Santa Rosa location, including burgers, double-fried Kennebec fries, fish and chips, salmon, schnitzel and salads. If you need some fresh air, you can step out on a year-round patio and 1-acre pet-friendly beer garden. In addition to Pliny the Younger, visitors can sample other popular Russian River Brewing beers.
I’m from out of town; where is a good place to stay? And how do I get around after I’ve had my share of Plinys?
Want to explore Sonoma County post Pliny? Uber and Lyft are available in Santa Rosa and Windsor. The SMART train is another good option.
What if I am pining for Pliny, but am not willing to wait in line for hours?
No worries. Pliny the Younger’s close relation, Pliny the Elder, is available year round — bottled or on tap. You can also check out local restaurants and bars that may have some Younger left on tap.
Where to get Pliny the Younger
Russian River Brewing Co. Santa Rosa: 725 Fourth St.; 707-545-2337. Windsor: 700 Mitchell Lane; 707-545-2337.
Hours: Both brewpubs will be open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. through April 3. Pliny will be available each day until the brewpub runs out of that day’s allocation. Customers can expect long wait times, with lines starting to form around 5 a.m. or earlier.
The 20th anniversary 2024 Pliny the Younger triple IPA was bottled and packaged at the Russian River Brewing Co. in Windsor, Tuesday, March 19, 2024. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
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Fireplace in living room of historic craftsman home in Petaluma. (RavePhoto.com)Kitchen in craftsman bungalow in Petaluma. (RavePhoto.com)
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