Cold mezze dips of hummus, baba ganoush, labneh and muhamarra at Levant restaurant in Petaluma. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
It’s rare for a restaurant opening to sneak up on me, but last week, Levant quietly soft-opened in Petaluma’s Theater District, offering an extensive menu that showcases the flavors of Syria, Lebanon, Jordan and Palestine.
Co-owner Arafat “Art” Herzallah of San Francisco’s popular Freekah restaurant has teamed up with longtime Petaluma residents Saheer Kassis and Issa Musalla to create a Middle Eastern culinary oasis at the site of the former Trattoria Roma.
Many dishes on Levant’s menu are tried-and-true favorites from Freekah, including cold mezze samplers with creamy hummus, yogurt-based labneh, smoky baba ghanoush and muhamarra, a sweet red pepper dip with walnuts ($21-$28). All are served with warm bites of pita bread.
Fried halloumi at Levant restaurant in Petaluma. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Hot mezze, such as fried halloumi (Jibneh Halloumi, $12), grilled Palestinian cheese (Jibneh Nabulsi, $12), fried cauliflower with tahini sauce (Zahara Bil Tahini, $16) and falafel ($10), also appear on the Freekah menu, along with skewers, wraps and salads.
Unlike the tapas-style dishes at Freekah, Levant dives deeper into the traditional, family-style meals of the Middle East, like Kufta ($24), a ground beef and lamb dish with sliced potatoes, onions and spices, topped with tahini or tomato sauce; and Lahme ($26), lamb simmered with potatoes. Mansaf ($32), a classic Jordanian dish made with lamb, spiced saffron rice and jameed (fermented yogurt), is an intensely flavored option that, while not my cup of tea, offers an earthy tangy richness inspired by Herzallah’s grandmother’s recipe.
Mansaf ($32), a traditional Jordanian dish made with lamb, spiced saffron rice and jameed (fermented yogurt), at Levant restaurant in Petaluma. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
The menu features a handful of Lebanese and Jordanian wines alongside pungent Turkish coffee and delicious mint tea.
First impressions
Levant is warm and inviting, and Herzallah’s wife, Monyca Currier-Herzallah, is an excellent guide, offering detailed explanations (sometimes with family stories) of each dish. As a longtime vegetarian, she has added plant-based meat options to an already vegetarian-friendly menu (which also features many gluten-free options).
The restaurant’s interior remains largely unchanged, with warm wood tones and earthy hues in the compact, 1,700-square-foot space. While the open kitchen can get a bit noisy at times, it also provides a fascinating peek at ingredients and preparations.
Salmon skewers with saffron rice at Levant restaurant in Petaluma. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Several dishes were a little heavy-handed on the salt, but spiced saffron rice had an intoxicating scent. Plates are meant to be shared, so be sure to go with friends and dip your pita bread with abandon.
There’s no shortage of Middle Eastern cuisine in Sonoma County (thankfully), with more than a dozen options for great hummus, tabbouleh, shawarma and falafel. But Levant stands apart with its traditional family recipes and many personal touches — something far harder to find.
Levant is at 140 Second St., Suite 100, Petaluma, 707-658-8017. Website coming soon. Open 4-9 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday. instagram.com/Levant_Petaluma
What kind of wine taster are you? Are you looking to revel in gorgeous gardens, or do you relish a fine coastal Pinot Noir? Is it all about classic Sonoma history, or are you seeking family producers a bit off the beaten track?
Whatever the reason, we’ve put together a Sonoma tasting guide to end all tasting guides, with over 120 recommendations — and right now is the perfect time to head out to explore the best wineries in Sonoma.
Click through the above gallery for a peek at a few of our favorite places to taste wine in Sonoma County.
“I Want to Support Smaller, Family-Owned Wineries — Ones a Bit off the Beaten Path.”
Carol Shelton Wines: Set in an industrial district of Santa Rosa, this tiny tasting room can barely contain all the ribbons and awards that Shelton — known as the “Queen of Zin” — has won. $20. 3354-B Coffey Lane, Santa Rosa. 707-575-3441, carolshelton.com
Frick Winery: Bill Frick has been a one-man show for 49 years. Join him in the adorable Frick House for small-lot wines made from Rhône varieties grown on his 7.7-acre ranch. Free. 23072 Walling Road, Geyserville. 707-484-3950, frickwinery.com
Enriquez Estate Winery: Cecilia Enriquez and her parents, Ana and Eduardo, produce about 1,000 cases a year of Pinot Noir and Tempranillo on the family’s 8.5-acre vineyard. From $50. 5960 Eastside Road, Forestville. 707347-9719, enriquezwines.com
Inman Family Wines: Try Kathleen Inman’s balanced, food-friendly Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and sparklers at this welcoming spot set in an organic vineyard. $30. 3900 Piner Road, Santa Rosa. 707-293-9576. inmanfamilywines.com
Singer Wine at Baker Lane Estate: Stephen Singer ran the wine program at Berkeley’s Chez Panisse with his former spouse, Alice Waters. He welcomes a few guests each week for a light meal and tasting of biodynamically farmed Syrah and Viognier. From $85. 7361 Baker Lane, Sebastopol. singer.wine
Bruliam Wines: Physician-turned-winemaker Kerith Overstreet makes just 1,000 cases — mainly single-vineyard Pinot Noir — each year. 1200 American Way, Windsor. bruliamwines.com
MacRostie Winery & Vineyards in Healdsburg. (Kim Carroll)
AVA Spotlight: Russian River Valley
Home to some of Sonoma’s oldest, most-prized vineyards, the Russian River Valley is widely recognized for premium Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The region is known for generously sunny days and cool, foggy nights, but given the diverse sub-regions, other varietals thrive here, too, like Zinfandel, Merlot and even cool-climate Syrah.
Favorite destinations include Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, where winemaker Theresa Heredia has been creating her own legacy of award-winning Pinot. Fellow pioneering labels like Merry Edwards, Williams Selyem, Rochioli and MacRostie Winery & Vineyards helped establish the Russian River Valley as an epicenter of premium Pinot Noir.
Sonoma-Cutrer and Balletto are ever-popular tasting spots and a crackling fireplace beckons at Benovia Winery.
The Dutton family of Dutton Estate have been farming in the Russian River region for six generations. And David Ramey of Ramey Wine Cellars is considered among the state’s most innovative winemakers. Tastings here overlook the production facility, for a glimpse of the magic in action.
Leo Hansen of Leo Steen Wines. (Lightspeed Films)
Taste With a Pro: Leo Hansen, Leo Steen Wines
The Drink (53 Front St., Healdsburg), located in the 1800s-era Old Roma Station building, is a shared tasting room for two standout labels: Hansen’s Leo Steen Wines (leosteenwines.com) and his buddy Mike Lucia’s Rootdown Wine Cellars (rootdownwine.com).
“The space was built as a co-op for Italian immigrants to make wine, and later became a fruit-drying facility during Prohibition,” explains Hansen.
His pick is the vibrant, green apple-kissed Saini Farms Dry Creek Valley Chenin Blanc, from one of the oldest planted Chenin Blanc vineyards in Sonoma County. “I love creating food-friendly, low-alcohol wine from this sleek, silky variety,” he says.
And Hansen loves meeting his guests — he leads tastings of six wines seven days a week ($30). After tasting at The Drink, Hansen likes to recommend that folks walk just a few blocks along the Russian River to Arnot-Roberts (arnotroberts.com). “They make fantastic wines with fun varietals like Ribolla Gialla, Trousseau and Gamay Noir.”
3 Great Kid-Friendly Wineries
Belden Barns, Santa Rosa: Scavenger hunts, explorer backpacks to borrow and a special wishing tree. beldenbarns.com
Preston of Dry Creek, Healdsburg: Ultra laid-back, with rambling gardens to explore, kitties to pet and hearth-baked sourdough bread. prestonofdrycreek.com
Cline Cellars, Sonoma: A historic property with sprawling gardens. Picnicking is welcome, and there are cute donkeys, too. Be sure to ask for a coloring map of their property to keep the kiddos entertained. clinecellars.com
No Car Needed: Petaluma
Petaluma has a Norman Rockwell feel, but locals know aspects of the town are just as edgy as San Francisco, just 35 miles to the south. Several excellent tasting rooms beckon here.
Barber Cellars (barbercellars.com), in the Art Deco-style Hotel Petaluma, features standout Zinfandel, classic ’80s arcade games, and an interesting food pairing consisting of a Ukrainian-style zakuski platter of cheeses, salads and savory pastries.
The future Adobe Road Winery, from former race car driver Kevin Buckler (adoberoadwines.com) is under construction along the Petaluma waterfront. For now, Adobe Road tastings are held in the historic Great Petaluma Mill.
And nearby Brooks Note Winery & Tasting Room (brooksnotewinery.com) is in a 1920s-era building. The flagship here is Pinot, but don’t miss the food-friendly Blaufrankisch, paired with local cheese.
Hardy Wallace, owner of Extradimensional Wine Co. Yeah! in Sonoma.
From award-winning winemaker Hardy Wallace, the most exuberant man in all of Wine Country, the Sonoma tasting room for Extradimensional Wine Co. Yeah! is a kaleidoscope of creativity and artistic intention. winecoyeah.com
‘‘Shifting the Lens” at sparkling wine specialist J Vineyards & Winery invites chefs from diverse backgrounds to take over the menu at their popular Bubble Room. In May, the honor went to James Beard semifinalist chef Michael Reed, of Poppy & Seed restaurant. jwine.com
2 Great Spots for Live Music
Muscardini Cellars, Kenwood: Italian varietals and live music every weekend May to October, with Simmer Down Saturdays. muscardinicellars.com
Rodney Strong Vineyards, Healdsburg: Beloved for their summer concert series, with major artists like Chris Isaak and Blues Traveler. Reserve a seat or bring a blanket and sit on the green. rodneystrong.com
“I’m a Total Foodie. Where Can I Have a Delicious Meal With My Tasting?”
Bricoleur Vineyards: The food program here is so meticulously handled that it takes three chefs to run it, including famed chef Charlie Palmer. The Rooted tasting ($150) impresses with a seasonal six-course meal with artistic dishes like handmade sweet shrimp siu mai dumplings with lemongrass and ginger. 7394 Starr Road, Windsor. 707-857-5700, bricoleurvineyards.com
Kivelstadt Cellars: Wine tasting at Kivelstadt’s bucolic tasting room in Sonoma gives you the opportunity to sample the exceptional food from Bloom Carneros restaurant. 22900 Broadway, Sonoma. 707-938-7001, kivelstadtcellars.com
Lynmar Estate: Chef David Frakes’ expensive-but-worth-it Collectors Lunch Pairing ($250) includes an exquisite, multi-course meal with dishes such as chile-Persian lime dusted watermelon with blistered stone fruit slaw. 3909 Frei Road, Sebastopol. 707-829-3374, lynmarestate.com
Jordan Vineyard & Winery: In April 2023, Jesse Mallgren left The Madrona, the Michelin-star restaurant he had run for nearly 25 years, and took his toque over to the glamorous Jordan, amping up an already upscale program. 1474 Alexander Valley Road, Healdsburg. 707-431-5250, jordanwinery.com
Paul Hobbs Winery: Chef Timothy Kaulfers joined this luxury spot in April 2023 to lead the Vineyard Designate tasting experience ($250), offering six rare wines alongside delectable dishes like housemade chicken sausage with an onion and fennel soubise. 3355 Gravenstein Hwy. N., Sebastopol. 707-824-9879, paulhobbswinery.com
Mayo Family Winery: Chef John Locher serves a delightfully inventive, meal with small-batch reserve wines in the Reserve Room ($90). 13101 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen. 707-833-5504, mayofamilywinery.com
Bloom Carneros, formerly Kivelstadt Cellars and Winegarten in Sonoma. (Daniel E Kokin)Sushi Grade Ahi Tuna with avocado, kewpie and served with chips from served with Twice Removed Rosé from the taps at Kivelstadt Cellars/Bloom Carneros. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
AVA Spotlight: Sonoma Valley
Stretched along the Mayacamas Mountains to the east and the Sonoma Mountains to the west, this beautiful area encompasses five distinct appellations and many microclimates ranging from brilliant sunshine to cool coastal fog. Given the climate, many types of grapes can thrive here.
Visit the 1,850-acre Kunde Family Winery for a mountaintop tasting, Chateau St. Jean for a garden stroll and tasting at the historic 1920s chateau, or VJB Cellars for Italian varietals and wood-fired pizzas on the Tuscan-style piazza.
Arrowood is famous for its warm-climate Cabernet Sauvignon and gracious tastings on its veranda, while Loxton Cellars and Hamilton Family Wines are boutique gems where you can see operations up-close, from grape to glass.
No Car Needed: Downtown Sonoma
Over 20 wineries have tasting rooms around downtown Sonoma’s shady plaza, making it an excellent destination for a day of tasting without the need for a designated driver.
Tom Darling of indie natural wine producer Darling Wines, down a pretty alleyway at the south end of the square, hit a home run with his very first vintage of cool-climate Syrah in 2017, which made the wine list at Thomas Keller’s Bouchon.
Pangloss Cellars (below) is a chic, airy tasting salon for Rhone varietals, with stone walls and wide windows out onto the park. Sosie Wines, right near Darling, makes three sparklers: red, white, and rosé, as well as an interesting Moon Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon.
And Sojourn Cellars is the spot for single-vineyard Pinot Noir from the Petaluma Gap, Russian River and Sonoma Coast.
Pangloss Cellars in Sonoma. (Robbi Pengelly/Index-Tribune)Lloyd Davis of Corner 103 in Sonoma. (Corner 103)
Founder Lloyd Davis has earned all kinds of recognition for his Corner 103 boutique tasting room in downtown Sonoma, including being named one of the top 10 tasting rooms in the country — twice. Davis credits the Black Lives Matter movement for making guests more aware of the importance of diversity in the wine industry and strives to make wine approachable to all. corner103.com
Free Tastings
At historic Korbel Winery in the Russian River Valley, the standard “marketplace” tasting is free, and a flight of three different wines is just $15 (korbel.com). And the super-friendly Locals Tasting Room in Geyserville offering tastings from 10 different local boutique producers, gratis (localstastingroom.com).
3 Great Spots to Play Bocce
Landmark Vineyards, Kenwood: Outdoor tastings by a lake and bocce for groups as large as 15. landmarkwine.com
Roth Estate, Healdsburg: Dedicated to powerful Cabernet from the Alexander Valley, Roth also hosts a bocce and barbecue tournament each spring. rothwinery.com
Dutcher Crossing, Geyserville: Play pétanque (another boules sport) on a court overlooking vineyards. Plus, get snuggles from cute golden retrievers. dutchercrossingwinery.com
Monica Lopez, the general manager of Bacchus Landing and proprietor of Aldina Vineyards in Healdsburg. (Beth Schlanker/The Press Democrat)
Taste With a Pro: Monica Lopez, Bacchus Landing
At this winery collective just outside Healdsburg, general manager Monica Lopez knows a thing or two about tasting rooms. After all, seven different boutique wineries welcome guests to the 3-acre property, which also has wood-fired pizza, a bocce court, and live music.
“I love being outdoors, so we put a lot of work into making Bacchus Landing a place you could relax outside,” says Lopez, whose family winery, Aldina Vineyards (aldinavineyards.com), is one of the seven tasting rooms on-site (tastings from $25). “We really want to encourage guests to purchase a bottle of wine and just hang out.”
On the rare occasions when Lopez isn’t leading tours at Bacchus Landing, she has a penchant for tasting rooms with beautiful outdoor spaces, like Robert Young Estate in Geyserville (ryew.com).
“It’s a Special Occasion, And I’m in the Mood To Splurge.”
Aperture Cellars: Modern luxury meets refined hospitality, where rockstar winemaker Jesse Katz continues to impress with his revered Bordeaux-style wines. There is plenty of eye candy here, including images from Katz’s father, photographer Andy Katz. Clearly, talent is a family affair. From $50. 12291 Old Redwood Hwy., Healdsburg. 707-200-7891, aperture-cellars.com
Silver Oak: Those who adore Cabernet will find much to fall in love with here. The winery produces an acclaimed expression of the Bordeaux varietal each year. From $50. 7300 Hwy. 128, Healdsburg. 707-942-7082, silveroak.com
Flowers Vineyards & Winery: There are few better ways to impress than a visit to Flowers Vineyards & Winery, where a short walk through the redwoods reveals a masterfully designed tasting room, California-inspired gardens, and acclaimed Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the Sonoma Coast. From $75. 4035 Westside Road, Healdsburg. 707-723-4800, flowerswinery.com
The Donum Estate: Spanning 220 idyllic acres in the Carneros, The Donum Estate is designed to dazzle, with more than 50 thought-provoking large-scale sculptures. The most exclusive tasting ($500) happens inside a kaleidoscopic pavilion of colored glass. From $150. 24500 Ramal Road, Sonoma. 707-732-2200, thedonumestate.com
Vérité Winery: Twenty minutes east of Healdsburg, Vérité seems to appear out of thin air, a dramatic, Abbey-inspired estate on a bucolic stretch of road. Father-daughter winemakers Pierre and Hélène Seillan have produced 17 hundred-point wines — all Bordeaux-style blends that reflect the region’s many micro-crus. From $200. 4611 Thomas Road, Healdsburg. 707-433-9000, veritewines.com
Hamel Family Wines: Impressive views of the biodynamically farmed vineyards, bespoke wine and food pairings, and small-production Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux-style blends all lure guests to this special spot in Sonoma Valley. From $95. 15401 Sonoma Hwy., Sonoma. 707-996-5800, hamelfamilywines.com
The Donum Estate.Silver Oak.
AVA Spotlight: Petaluma Gap
Bursts of Pacific Ocean-driven wind and fog through a “gap” in coastal mountain ranges makes the region a prime spot for growing cool climate Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah. It’s a huge AVA, spanning more than 200,000 acres from Bodega Bay to San Pablo Bay, but is mostly towns, vineyards and agriculture. Many well-known wines are made with fruit grown here, but actual tasting rooms located in the field are hard to come by.
To get the best sense of the wines made from the Petaluma Gap, head to Keller Estate, perched on a lushly landscaped hilltop with magical vineyard and valley views. Winemaker Ana Keller includes interesting varietals like a Syrah-Viognier blend, a Pinot Gris and sparkling wines (from $35, kellerestate.com).
Taste With a Pro: Ted Lemon, Littorai
There’s a lot to love at Littorai, but the coolest thing about visiting, says Lemon, is the private farm tour. “We’re a biodynamic wine farm, so you really get to see what’s involved in that,” he says. This includes seeing how Littorai makes biodynamic compost teas, which help nourish the vines, and walking through the vineyard blocks. “There’s a lovely view up top, so you can get a sense of the Sebastopol hills,” he says.
Lemon also likes taking friends to Freeman Winery for cave tastings of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and to Arnot-Roberts for intriguing, site-specific wines. “The Freemans are lovely and they’re small and owner-run. They don’t make a lot of wine, so you’re really tasting the signature of the winemaker,” he says (freemanwinery.com).
At Arnot-Roberts (arnotroberts.com), Lemon says there are a range of wines on offer from all over, often including offbeat varieties. “It’s really a lot of fun.”
Mutt Lynch Winery, Windsor: One of the most dog-friendly wineries around, with the motto “bark less, wag more.” Wine flights and wine club shipments come with special dog treats. muttlynchwinery.com
Smith Story Wine Cellars, Healdsburg: Lord Sandwich, the charismatic goldendoodle belonging to winery owners Alison Smith Story and Eric Story, helped make this charming family-owned tasting room Instagram-famous. smithstorywines.com
Kunde Family Winery, Kenwood: Fifth-generation winegrower Jordan Kunde welcomes dogs and their owners for a hike and romp through vineyards and native grasslands. kunde.com
Alison Smith Story and Eric Story with Lord Sandwich.
3 Great Wineries with Olive Groves
DaVero Farms & Winery, Healdsburg: Cuttings from an ancient, 800-year-old olive grove in Tuscany helped establish the orchards. The fruit is gently handpicked, then pressed the same day for an extra-virgin elixir that’s rich, fruity and peppery. davero.com
Trattore Farms, Geyserville: For $20, add a tasting of their excellent flavored oils to any tasting at their Dry Creek estate or in downtown Healdsburg. trattorefarms.com
Jacuzzi Family Vineyards, Sonoma: A large stone chateau anchors one of the area’s largest olive oil operations, with 45 acres of Italian and Spanish trees. In harvest season (usually October), visitors can see the pressing process up close. jacuzziwines.com
Francis Ford Coppola Winery.
At Geyserville’s family-friendly Francis Ford Coppola Winery, reserve a cabine to hang out and swim for the day in one of two giant swimming pools surrounded by chic blue chaise lounges (from $250). Inside, film buffs will find a museum of Coppola’s movie memorabilia, including Academy Awards and a screeching red Tucker automobile. francisfordcoppolawinery.com
Taste With a Pro: Alice Sutro, Sutro Wine Co.
Visual artist, winemaker and mother of two Alice Sutro wants her guests to experience her family’s ranch in Chalk Hill, near the Russian River, in a very authentic way, so guests are led on a walk through the vineyard tasting.
“It’s like a 30-minute crash course in viticulture. Why does a trellis work that way, why do we maintain the canopy like this, what are our volcanic soils like — and here’s how that affects what’s in the glass,” explains Sutro. “I really want people to see the effort and value in grape-growing. It seems so necessary to me.”
When not walking the lands that inspire her painting and winemaking, Sutro’s hands-down favorite tasting room is Bannister Wines in Geyserville (bannisterwines.com), where Brook Bannister, a furniture craftsman turned winemaker, and Morgania Moore, a jewelry and lighting designer, have created a bohemian-styled art gallery and salon in a 104-year-old former bank.
Sutro Wine Co. hike and tasting, $65. 13301 Chalk Hill Road, Healdsburg. 707-509-9695, sutrowine.com
Alice Sutro. (Kelsey-Anne Jones)Olga Fernandez of Guerrero Fernandez Winery in Windsor. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Owners Olga Fernandez and Martin Guerrero have poured their hearts into the homespun tasting room at Guerrero Fernandez Winery in Windsor, where guests can compare Zinfandel from Dry Creek and Russian River valleys. Don’t miss the karaoke nights. gfwines.com
“I Love a Sense of History. What Are Some Classic Destinations?”
Martinelli Winery: For more than 135 years, the Martinelli family has farmed this land, including the famously steep Jackass Hill. Daredevil winegrower Giuseppe Martinelli planted Jackass Hill in 1889 and farmed it with a team of horses for 30 years. From $35. 3360 River Road, Windsor. 707-525-0570, martinelliwinery.com
Buena Vista Winery: California’s first premium winery was founded by Hungarian immigrant Count Agoston Haraszthy in 1857. Don’t miss the plush, Champagne-focused Bubble Lounge. From $35. 18000 Old Winery Road, Sonoma. 800-926-1266, buenavistawinery.com
Kendall-Jackson Wine Estate & Gardens: The late Jess Jackson bought his first vineyards in 1974. An unwitting mistake that produced a slightly sweet Chardonnay put the winery on the map. These days, a 4-acre organic garden produces rare veggies for in-house pairing menus. From $35. 5007 Fulton Road, Santa Rosa. 707-571-8100, kj.com
Gundlach Bundschu Winery: The oldest family-owned winery in the state, GunBun’s Rhinefarm vineyards were first planted in 1858. The Bundschu family is known for coastal Chardonnay and reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, among a dozen different varietals — and for rollicking outdoor concerts in the old redwood barn. Metallica once performed a secret concert here. From $75. 2000 Denmark St., Sonoma. 707-938-5277, gunbun.com
Sebastiani Vineyards & Winery: This downtown Sonoma winery, founded in 1904, was one of the few to operate through Prohibition, producing small amounts of sacramental and medicinal wines. From $50. 389 Fourth St. E., Sonoma. 707-933-3200, sebastiani.com
Iron Horse Vineyards: The family winery began with a vision in the pouring rain back in 1976. Audrey Sterling and her late husband Barry thought the 300 acres of gentle rolling Sebastopol hills looked like Camelot. Today, the small sparkling wine house produces stellar bubbly. From $35. 9786 Ross Station Road, Sebastopol. 707-887-1507, ironhorsevineyards.com
The Bubble Lounge at Buena Vista Winery in Sonoma. (Buena Vista Winery)
AVA Spotlight: Alexander Valley
This is one of Sonoma County’s largest appellations in terms of acres planted, second only to the vast North Sonoma AVA. Located near Geyserville, Alexander Valley is known for fruit-driven Cabernet Sauvignon that is complex and full bodied, with silky tannins. This distinctive Cab comes courtesy of the region’s warm, dry climate, morning fog, and the moderating influence of the Russian River. Chardonnay, which tends to be on the rich, floral side, also shines here, along with old vine Zinfandel. Get a sense of the region’s best at Stonestreet Wines (below), Hawkes Wine, Hanna and Alexander Valley Vineyards.
Stonestreet Wines.
Taste With a Pro: Katie Madigan, St. Francis Winery
In 2002, Madigan was a 21-year-old intern at St. Francis back when the proverbial light bulb went off and she realized winemaking was her calling.
Two decades later, Madigan is still just as excited about the work she does. She says the winery has a variety of fun tasting experiences, including a pedal trolley tour made famous by Al Roker and friends at a taping with NBC’s Today Show in April 2023. Estate pairings on the patio from chef Peter Janiak use produce from the 2-acre garden.
With out-of-town guests, Madigan also loves visiting Anaba Wines in Sonoma (anabawines.com). “The winery is super dog-friendly, which makes it easy to bring my pup along,” she says. She also enjoys rare Rhone and Italian varietals at Unti Vineyards in Healdsburg (untivineyards.com). “All of its wines are dynamite, and the intimate feel of its tasting room gives the perfect personal touch.”
St. Francis tastings from $35. 100 Pythian Road, Santa Rosa. 888-675-9463, stfranciswinery.com
Katie Madigan, St. Francis Winery & Vineyards winemaker (St. Francis Winery & Vineyards)
Top 3 Tastings in Caves
Bella Winery, Healdsburg: In sprawling caves set beneath the gorgeous, century-old Lily Hill vineyard, visitors gather among stacks of barrels as soft light filters in. Small-production lots of Zinfandel are the draw. From $30. 9711 W. Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg. 707-473-9171, bellawinery.com
Deerfield Ranch Winery, Kenwood: Feel like part of the harvest action as you cross the outdoor crushpad to reach a quiet tasting room set inside 23,000 square feet of caves. From $35. 10200 Sonoma Hwy., Kenwood. 707-833-5215, deerfieldranch.com
Capo Creek Ranch, Healdsburg: Food pairings are led by Mary Roy, a former physician, now Capo’s hospitable winemaker, chef and owner. From $165. 7171 W. Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg. 707-608-8448, capocreekranch.com
Whamola wieners at Claypool Cellars in Sebastopol. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Pachyderm Station is what Primus guitarist Les Claypool calls his quirky Sebastopol tasting room decorated with concert posters and an old-timey bar. Homey? Yes. Weird in the best kind of way? Also, yes. Fridays through Sundays, pair the excellent site-specific Pinot Noirs with fancy hot dogs from Claypool’s own Whamola Wieners. purplepachyderm.com
At The Barlow in Sebastopol, Pax Winery & Tasting Room is like a clubhouse for likeminded indie winemakers, led by Syrah and Grenache specialist Pax Mahle. Take a quick peek around back at harvest time to glimpse the busy crush facility he shares with natural wine pioneer Martha Stoumen and rising stars Rosalind Reynolds and Patrick Cappiello. paxwine.com
The Pax Winery tasting room at The Barlow on a Friday afternoon in Sebastopol. (John Burgess/Sonoma Magazine)Golden hour picnic in Antonia’s Garden at Bartholomew Estate Winery. (Michelle Hogan)
Top 3 for a Great Picnic
Lambert Bridge Winery, Healdsburg: Shady tables await on an expansive picnic lawn, with gorgeous views of vineyards and surrounding forests. From $35. 4085 W. Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg. 707- 431-9600, lambertbridge.com
VML Winery, Healdsburg: Chill in the serene Butterfly Garden, a shaded sanctuary tucked next to Dry Creek, as you enjoy single-vineyard Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. From $50. 5610 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg. 707-431-4404, vmlwine.com
Bartholomew Estate Winery, Sonoma: Grab a bottle from the tasting room, then settle in at a picnic table overlooking the vineyard. After, hit the trail at 375-acre Bartholomew Park. From $45. 1000 Vineyard Lane, Sonoma. 707-509-0540, bartholomewestate.com
“Forget Instagram. I Want All the Prettiest Views in Real Life.”
Paradise Ridge: The second-story veranda is the place to drink in sweeping views of the Russian River Valley and the winery’s iconic “LOVE” sculpture as the sun sets over the vineyards. Paradise found, indeed. From $35. 4545 Thomas Lake Harris Drive, Santa Rosa. 707-528-9463, prwinery.com
Scribe Winery: Lush palms meet native ornamental grasses, succulents, roses, and a bountiful culinary garden at Scribe. The landscape’s wild splendor is a fitting accent to the restored hacienda’s “old California” vibe. Tastings for Scribe Viticultural Society members. 2100 Denmark St., Sonoma. 707-939-1858, scribewinery.com
Matanzas Creek Winery: Stunning lavender fields beckon at Matanzas Creek, especially in June, when row upon row of fragrant purple blossoms reach their peak. Book a reservation to visit the terraced gardens and tasting room. From $35. 6097 Bennett Valley Road, Santa Rosa. 707-528-6464, matanzascreek.com
Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Winery: The gardens are stunning any time of year, but for tulip lovers, early spring is the time to visit. Call the winery’s “tulip hotline” to find out when they’re at their colorful best. Tastings start at $40. 8761 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg. 707-433-6700, ferraricarano.com
Arista Winery: With a winding gravel pathway, picturesque pond, and harmonious collection of trees, ferns and manicured greenery, the Japanese water garden at Arista is an oasis of serenity for seated sipping. From $30. 7015 Westside Road, Healdsburg. 707-473-0606, aristawinery.com
McEvoy Ranch: The 550-acre winery and olive oil operation is tucked away in a hidden, private valley on the Sonoma/ Marin county line near Petaluma. Graceful olive trees are surrounded by extensive plantings of lavender and herbs. 5935 Red Hill Road, Petaluma. 707778-2307, mcevoyranch.com
Scribe Winery in Sonoma. (Leo Patrone)Matanzas Creek Winery in Santa Rosa. (Matanzas Creek Winery)
AVA Spotlight: Sonoma Coast
The Sonoma Coast appellation covers more than 750 square miles, stretching from the Mendocino County border to the San Pablo Bay. While the expansive AVA’s diverse microclimates, soils, elevations, and exposures allow many grape varieties to flourish, it’s best known for cool climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
Set within the broader Sonoma Coast, the West Sonoma Coast AVA covers the farthest western sliver of the county along the Pacific coastline, as well as the Fort Ross-Seaview AVA. The region sets itself apart with a cool maritime climate, high elevations and extreme growing conditions. To sample the coast, visit Fort Ross Vineyard & Winery (below) — one of the few West Sonoma Coast wineries with a tasting room within the bounds of the remote region — plus Peay Vineyards, Cobb Wines, Red Car Wine and Hirsch Vineyards.
Fort Ross Vineyard and Winery.
Taste With a Pro: Corinne Rich and Katie Rouse, Birdhorse Wines
Rich and Rouse have day jobs as assistant winemakers at Scribe and Bedrock Wine Co., respectively, but the couple still finds time to run their own wine brand, crafting uncommon varietals like Valdiguie and Cinsault. The couple thrill to introducing people to favorites like their Portuguese-style, green pineapple-wet stone Contra Costa Verdelho.
“It’s such a special wine, with so much of the texture and weight of an Old World Chardonnay, but a flavor profile that’s authentically Californian.”
To taste, they invite guests to join their mailing list and attend their release parties, recently hosted at chic Luma Bar & Eatery in Petaluma. Or look for the couple at Preston Farm & Winery, one of their favorite stops, where they treasure bottlings of Barbera, Carignan and Nero d’Avola (prestonfarmandwinery.com). “Their wines are excellent, and the farm is such a beautiful, integrated ecosystem of grapes, animals, other crops, and the natural surroundings. It’s really a gold standard of what farming in Sonoma County can look like.”
Corinne Rich and Katie Rouse of Birdhorse Wines. (Emma K. Creative)Three Sticks Wines tasting room in Sonoma. (Three Sticks Wines)
Custom white papel picado banners flutter in the breeze at the beautifully preserved 1842 Vallejo-Casteñada Adobe in downtown Sonoma, home to Three Sticks Wines, vintner Bill Price’s award-winning Pinot Noir and Chardonnay house. Not to be missed. threestickswines.com
Learn the art of sabrage — using the blunt edge of a sword to open a bottle of sparkling wine — at Healdsburg favorite Breathless Wines. After you learn to open the bottle, you get to drink it. breathlesswines.com
At Breathless Wines in Healdsburg. (Jeremy Portje/For Sonoma Magazine)
Top 3 for High-End Design
Ram’s Gate Winery, Sonoma: This hilltop destination in the Carneros gives off Belgian country vibes and was designed by Orlando Diaz-Azcuy, a member of Interior Design magazine’s Hall of Fame. ramsgatewinery.com
Reeve Wines, Healdsburg: Noah and Kelly Dorrance cofounded Healdsburg’s Banshee Wines in 2009, and Reeve, named for their son, is one of the couple’s two spin-off projects after Banshee. Kelly also runs a Healdsburg antique shop, and the tasting lounge here is decorated with her gorgeous finds. Events hosted here benefit Everytown for Gun Safety. reevewines.com
The Marine Layer tasting room in Healdsburg. (Gretchen Gause)The bathroom at the Marine Layer tasting room in Healdsburg. (Gretchen Gause)
Taste With a Pro: William Allen, Two Shepherds
The Two Shepherds winery is low on glamour, says Allen, but rich in uncommon grape varieties. “You will often get to taste some really unusual things, like our Grenache Blanc, which we make as a normal white and as an orange wine,” he says. “Or we have a carbonic Carignan versus a regular Carignan, so we can show you the different expressions.”
When friends ask for winery recommendations, Allen often sends them to the wonderfully laid-back Ryme Cellars in Forestville (rymecellars.com). “I love Megan and Ryan Glaab,” he says. “They make unusual varieties and their wines are super-awesome. They just have really fun, clean, interesting things that you’re not going to find in a lot of places, and it’s super-upbeat.” Two Shepherds Winery, tastings from $20. 7763 Bell Road, Windsor. 415-613-5731, twoshepherds.com
“I Want to Support Sustainable and Regenerative Farming.”
Medlock Ames Winery: Co-founder Ames Morison is an industry thought leader in sustainability planning and new trends in organic viticulture. A sound-immersion tour ($75) of their Bell Mountain Ranch property is an introduction to his approach. From $65. 13414 Chalk Hill Road, Healdsburg. 707-431-8845, medlockames.com
Hanzell Vineyards: Award-winning Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are created here in balance with organic vegetable gardens and orchards. Ducks and chickens wander the vineyards and a herd of fire-suppression pigs (yes, pigs!) loosen soils and tramp down overgrowth. $65. 18596 Lomita Ave., Sonoma. 707-996-3860, hanzell.com
Benziger Family: Winery Mike Benziger is a leader in biodynamic grapegrowing, a holistic method attuned to building the strength of the soil. On a tram tour into the vineyards ($35), learn about biodynamics and see the farm’s insectary gardens. From $75. 1883 London Ranch Road, Glen Ellen. 888-490-2739, benziger.com
Ridge Vineyards, Lytton Springs: The solar-powered winery is made of straw bales plastered over with vineyard clay, an insulated design that stays cool in summer and warm in winter. The estate Zinfandel vines are more than 115 years old and have thrived after the changeover to organic practices. From $30. 650 Lytton Springs Road, Healdsburg. 707-433-7721, ridgewine.com
DeLoach Vineyards: The estate has been farmed biodynamic ally since 2009, and tasting room guests are invited to tour the “Theater of Nature,” as they call it — a wander through 20 acres of culinary gardens and vineyards. From $35. 1791 Olivet Road, Santa Rosa. 707-755-3300, deloachvineyards.com
Quivira Vineyards: Want to talk green? Ask about the epic 500-yard compost pile that nourishes the gardens and fields. Quivira is a model of integrated, diversified farming with organic vegetables, flowers, and livestock among the grapes. From $35. 4900 West Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg. 707-431-8333, quivirawine.com
Medlock Ames in Healdsburg. (Kim Carroll/For Sonoma Magazine)Medlock Ames in Healdsburg. (Kim Carroll/For Sonoma Magazine)
AVA Spotlight: Dry Creek Valley
Zinfandel lovers make a pilgrimage to Dry Creek to taste this inky, feisty varietal, which thrives on the long, full days of abundant sunshine tempered by cool breezes from the Pacific Ocean. In addition to Zin, other varieties that grow well there include Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Grenache.
The indomitable Dave Stare of Dry Creek Vineyard helped shape the course of the valley and establish it as an AVA. The Nalle family of Nalle Winery are Dry Creek pioneers who farm 100-year-old Zinfandel ines. Several families have wineries that go back generations here: A. Rafanelli Winery, Seghesio Family Vineyards, Rochioli Vineyards & Winery and Pedroncelli. And don’t miss the views from the tasting room at Cast Wines, which span nearly the entire valley.
Taste With a Pro: James McCeney, Patz & Hall Winery
The winemaker joined the P&H team in May 2023 and enjoys popping out of the cellar to greet guests and share what drew him to the storied winery, founded in 1988.
“One of the things that makes Patz & Hall so special is our deep relationship with our growers,” he says. “Throughout our tasting room, we proudly display images of these farming families.” He also gets a kick out of sharing secret treasure vineyards. “If you enjoy our Zio Tony Ranch Russian River Chardonnay, this makes you a true insider — it’s a New World mirror of a Premier Cru Chablis with a mouthwatering taught, crystalline acidity.”
If not hosting at the P&H Sonoma tasting room, he often takes friends to Domaine Cameras (domainecarneros.com). “I live just over the county line in Napa, off Old Sonoma Road, so it’s a great spot for sparkling wine made from Sonoma Carneros grapes.”
Patz & Hall Winery, 21200 Eighth St. E., Sonoma. 707-265-7700, patzhall.com
No Car Needed: Downtown Healdsburg
Healdsburg’s compact downtown, organized around a central plaza like several other local wine towns, is another spot to wander all day without starting up the car.
A tasting at Matt and Sara Licklider’s Lioco Winery is like a visit to your coolest friend’s even cooler house, with interesting light fixtures and art prints on the wall. Record player aside — yes, there’s that, too — they’re known for stellar Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Carignan with an emphasis on older vines, unique soil types and heritage clones.
On North Street, BloodRoot Wines hosts vinyl record spin sessions and pét-nat and pupusas nights. Alan Baker of Cartograph Wines worked in public radio production in Minnesota for decades before realizing his winemaking dream with wife Serena Lourie.
And Centennial Mountain (formerly Aeris, for the Latin word for air or climate), celebrates founder Kevin Harvey’s love of Piemontese varieties, including Carricante, an aromatic white grape that grows beautifully on Sonoma’s Centennial Mountain Vineyard. It’s believed to be one of the only plantings of the rare variety in the state.
Bedrock Wine Co. tasting room in Sonoma. (Bedrock Wine Co.)
The intrigue of Bedrock Wine Co. lies in complex, character-driven wines from historic vineyards over a century old. Winemaker Morgan Twain-Peterson’s Sonoma tasting room occupies the 1852 home of Civil War general “Fighting Joe” Hooker — a coincidence given that Twain-Peterson also farms Hooker’s 130-year-old vineyard just outside town. From $45. 414 First St. E., Sonoma. 707-343-1478, bedrockwineco.com
Trail runners and mountain bikers can purchase a oneday pass to access vineyard trails with gorgeous views at Notre Vue Estate Winery & Vineyards outside Windsor. A 350-acre wildlife preserve surrounds the vineyard blocks. notrevueestate.com
Idlewild Wines, Healdsburg: Owner Sam Bilbro loves Italian Piedmont wines, so that’s what he makes, in a rainbow array of single varietal masterpieces, including jasmine tea-white peach Arneis and tart strawberry-violet Freisa.idlewildwines.com
Old World Winery, Fulton: Celebrating natural, biodynamic wine, owner Darek Trowbridge adds nothing to his juice except a minimal amount of protective sulfur. Focusing on field blends from 120-year-old vineyards, he crafts very rare varietals such as Muscadelle, Trousseau Gris, Palomino and Mondeuse Noire. oldworldwinery.com
Sunce Winery & Vineyard, Santa Rosa: Owners Frane and Janae Franicevic cultivate a global snapshot of four dozen- plus wines, including rare Lagrein, Negroamaro, Rosa del Peru and Trincadeira varietals. suncewinery.com
By the team of Tina Caputo, Sarah Doyle, Imane Hanine, Heather Irwin, Peg Melnik, Abigail Peterson and Carey Sweet.
Teen Rodeo Champions Andres Puentes, 16, left, and Paula Puentes 12, at their family ranch in Napa, Calif. May 15, 2025
(Photo: Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine)
Charrería is the national sport of Mexico — and a family tradition for Sonoma winemakers Juan and Miriam Puentes. Loosely translated as “horsemanship,” charrería predates the American rodeo and traces its roots to the 1600s, when Spanish conquistadors introduced horses, cattle, and ranching culture to Mexico.
“These were tricks and other things that they would use to handle cattle back in the haciendas,” Juan says of skills like roping, horse handling, and riding bareback on a wild mare. “They would say, ‘Oh, I bet you my guys are better than your guys.’ Friendly fun turned into a sport.”
The Puenteses’ award-winning charrería team, Charros de Honrama, includes not only Juan, 45, but also his son Andres, 16, and his daughter Paula, 12. Together they’ve won numerous competitions at the state and national levels, as well as in Mexico.
The Puentes family also runs Honrama Cellars in Sonoma, their wine labels adorned with charrería iconography. “In our culture, wine is not a common beverage,” Juan says. “It’s a very unique brand.” The winery will host a Dia del Charro celebration on Sept. 13. honramacellars.com
Teen charrería champions Andres Puentes, 16, left, and Paula Puentes, 12, at their family ranch in Napa, May 15, 2025. (Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine)
A busy schedule
We practice Tuesdays and Thursdays and ride every weekend. We’ll ride everything from little rodeos to massive events, and we take every competition just as seriously. We travel with two horse trailers, about 16 horses. This year we’ll go to Colorado, Texas, Arizona, L.A., San Diego, Las Vegas. We got invited to a competition in Washington. Every weekend we’re booked.
Dressing the part
I’m very proud when I dress the part. All of our gear has to be traditionally made. We can’t wear an American buckle, we can’t wear an American belt. I can’t wear Wranglers underneath my chaps. It has to be a charro pant. We have people make all of our clothes, the chaps, the saddles. And then the coolest part is the guy who makes the hats.
Los caballos
Part of the success our team has had is because of our four-legged friends. You can have the best charros, but if you don’t have them on good horses, they’re not gonna do anything. We have a very special horse named Chucho. He’s famous in the charrería world. It’s just one of those horses that is born one in a million. He’s a Seabiscuit, a Secretariat.
Juan Puentes performs charrería, Mexican rodeo, at his family’s barn in American Canyon, Wednesday, May 1, 2024. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
A successful pairing
If it wasn’t for charrería, we wouldn’t be as successful as we are in winemaking. Charrería is our hobby, but after riding that weekend, we come back on Monday in a good mood. My wife runs the tasting room, and I’m in charge of winemaking and production. They’re very similar passions. Being able to make wine with amazing grapes, it’s fun. We love what we do.
If you’re heading out to the coast, the Wild Poppy offers a creekside, dog-friendly patio with music for brunch on the weekends Saturday, July 13, 2024 on the Bodega Highway west of Sebastopol. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
In temperate Sonoma County, it’s rare to find a dining spot without a lovely patio or sidewalk seating. Still, a few standouts truly shine at offering stellar outdoor spaces alongside great food.
Here are my picks for shaded patios, prime sidewalk people-watching and sun-dappled gardens worth seeking out. As someone prone to severe sunburn, I’ve included a “shade score” to indicate how much coverage you can expect from umbrellas and other shade sources.
Santa Rosa
Mitote Food Park
Set in the heart of the predominantly Latino community of Roseland, this happy gathering of food trucks features the flavors of Oaxaca, Jalisco, Michoacan, Yucatán, and Mexico City. There’s also a vibrant al fresco bar and live music with fully-tented sun coverage. Shade score: 9/10. 100 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa, mitotefoodpark.com
Spinster Sisters
This outdoor garden is all about wide-open spaces in an urban setting. Enjoy supper and wine beneath colorful sails and twinkling lights. Charming bistro tables and retro picnic benches covered by floral oilcloth match the creative vibe of the SOFA (South of A Street) neighborhood. Shade score: 6/10. 401 South A St., Santa Rosa, 707-528-7100, thespinstersisters.com
Warm summer nights for dinner in The Spinster Sisters garden patio Tuesday, July 9, 2024 in Santa Rosa. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)The outdoor patio seating at Grata Italian Eatery Thursday, May 8, 2025, in Windsor. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Windsor
Grata
This Windsor restaurant serves up neighborhood Italian fare on a semi-enclosed patio with plenty of shady spots and cool breezes. The tiny tables aren’t ideal, but the risotto more than makes up for it. Shade score: 8/10. 186 Windsor River Road, Windsor, 707-620-0508, gratawindsor.com
Sonoma Valley
Sunflower Caffe
This longtime breakfast, brunch and lunch café has a secret — it’s shaded back patio features a sunny oasis decorated in cheery yellow hues. Surrounded by old oaks and topped with a weather-resistant pergola, it’s ready for almost any season. Best bites include their breakfast biscuit, passion fruit coconut waffle and kale chicken Caesar salad, along with wellness shots and mimosas. Shade score 9/10. 421 First St., Sonoma, sonomasunflower.com
Salt & Stone
Outdoor tables (with umbrellas) surround a tranquil lily pond and at night, twinkle lights give off a soft glow, making this a favorite romantic rendezvous in Kenwood. Solid American classic cuisine with a full bar. Shade score 4/10. 9900 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, 707-833-6326, saltstonekenwood.com
Dip your toes into the casual-chic scene at Valley Swim Club, a walk-in-only outdoor dining spot modeled after an East Coast clam shack. (Eileen Roche / For Sonoma Magazine)
Valley Swim Club
This seafood-centric restaurant has no indoor seating, so the year-round outdoor space is well-covered with retro-chic furniture and comfy bench seats. Oversize striped umbrellas create a shaded oasis for yard seating. Shade Score: 9/10. 18709 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, 707-243-3032, valleyswim.club
El Dorado Kitchen
A private courtyard and pool transport you from the busy downtown square to a restful retreat. Excellent Cal-Italian food and craft cocktails compliment the intimate space. Shade Score: 7/10. 405 First St. West, Sonoma, 707-996-3030, eldoradosonoma.com
The Girl & the Fig
Large umbrellas and sunshades cover the enclosed patio space that’s a world away from the daily grind. Casual French cuisine with a full cocktail bar and friendly service. Shade Score: 7/10. 110 West Spain St., Sonoma, 707-938-3634, thegirlandthefig.com
The popular patio at The Girl & The Fig on farmers market night in the Sonoma square Tuesday, July 9, 2024. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)The outdoor dining patio at Handline in Sebastopol. (Handline)
Sebastopol
Handline
Shoji screen-style windows open wide to let cool breezes flow through the restaurant, but the tented patio remains a favorite for families and pets. A newly added children’s area nearby helps keep little ones entertained. Creamy soft serve is a nostalgic nod to the restaurant’s past as a Foster Freeze. Shade score: 9/10. 935 Gravenstein Highway S., Sebastopol, 707-827-3744, handline.com
Khom Loi
It’s the best of both worlds — indoor while feeling like you’re outdoor — at this popular Thai restaurant. Enclosed on three sides with a soaring atrium, the space lets in the breeze while keeping you out of direct sunlight. Ramen Gaijin’s chef team brings their love of Thailand’s sweet, salty, sour and fragrant cuisine to Sebastopol with style. Shade score: 10/10. 7385 Healdsburg Ave., Sebastopol, 707-329-6917, khomloisonoma.com
Outdoor dining at Khom Loi restaurant in Sebastopol. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)If you’re heading out to the coast, the Wild Poppy offers a creekside, dog-friendly patio with music for brunch on the weekends Saturday, July 13, 2024, on the Bodega Highway west of Sebastopol. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Wild Poppy
The rambling outdoor patio of this offbeat Sebastopol roadhouse has always been a magical place, full of nooks, crannies and hidden spaces to explore. Despite plenty of umbrellas, it can be hard to find complete shade on extra hot days, but a quiet ledge overlooking the creek offers leafy coverage. Don’t miss the Cosmic Queso! Shade score: 7/10. 9890 Bodega Highway, Sebastopol, 707-503-6332, thewildpoppycafe.com
Petaluma
Brewsters Beer Garden
Everyone’s welcome (including your pup) at this indoor-outdoor destination. Excellent barbecue and burgers, mostly California-made beers on tap and cocktails. Live music can get a little loud if you’re trying to converse, but after a few beers, who cares? Shade Score: 7/10. 229 N. Water St., Petaluma, 707-981-8330, brewstersbeergarden.com
Water Street Bistro
Rise and shine on the riverfront with excellent morning pastries, sandwiches and salads at this cozy French bistro. You can’t get much closer to the river action than this. Shade score: 5/10. 100 Petaluma Blvd. North, Petaluma, 707-763-9563, waterstreetbistropetaluma.com
Healdsburg
Outdoor seating at Acorn Cafe in Healdsburg. (Acorn Cafe)
Acorn Cafe
The former Oakville Grocery has plenty of patio seating, complete with a cozy fireplace for chilly mornings. It’s great for well-behaved dogs and kids, or even not-so-well-behaved adults. I love their over-the-top takes on breakfast, brunch and lunch. The lineup includes tiramisu French toast, a brown butter hollandaise Benedict and quite possibly the world’s most inspired fried chicken sandwich. A tasty low- and no-alcohol cocktail menu and an inspired wine list create a Sunday brunch vibe even on weekday mornings. Shade score: 7/10. 124 Matheson St., Healdsburg, acornhealdsburg.com
The Rooftop at Harmon Guest House
Take in views of Fitch Mountain, the Mayacamas range and downtown Healdsburg while you nosh on small bites and casual dishes. Full bar, plus some excellent wines. Shade score: 6/10. 227 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-922-5449, harmonguesthouse.com
The Rooftop Bar at Harmon Guest House in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of Harmon Guest House)The Olive Terrace at Montage Healdsburg’s Hazel Hill restaurant. (Christian Horan Photography)
Olive Terrace at Montage Resort
Perched high above the Alexander Valley, the Olive Terrace at Montage’s Hazel Hill restaurant overlooks vineyards and hundreds of acres of open landscape. It also comes with cozy rocking chairs and fire pits. The menus offer both small bites and hearty dishes. Order craft cocktails at the adjacent Scout Field Bar. Shade score: 6/10. 100 Montage Way, Healdsburg, montagehotels.com/healdsburg
Roof 106
Chef Dustin Valette’s ambitious venture is a multistory building with The Matheson restaurant on the ground level, a mezzanine overlooking the restaurant for private events and a rooftop lounge, Roof 106. The rooftop lounge has a more casual indoor-outdoor setting with craft cocktails, small plates and seasonal flatbreads from a custom 3,800-pound wood-fired Mugnaini oven. Shade Score: 8/10. 106 Matheson St., Healdsburg, thematheson.com
Outdoor dining area at Bravas Bar de Tapas in Healdsburg. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
Bravas Bar de Tapas
“Jamon In,” reads the neon arrow pointing to the patio that Healdsburgers flock to every summer. Sangria, paella, Spanish tapas and plenty of gossip are what you’ll find at this popular watering hole and restaurant. Shade score: 7/10. 420 Center St., Healdsburg, starkrestaurants.com
Healdsburg Bar & Grill
Known to locals as HBG, this buzzing American eatery serves up comfort classics like macaroni and cheese, grilled fish tacos, fried chicken and the classic HBG burger. The fenced patio offers space for kids to roam. Don’t miss the okonomiyaki tots! Shade score: 7/10. 245 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, healdsburgbarandgrill.com
Occidental
Altamont General Store
The outdoor space is the perfect addition to this eclectic café and market. Umbrella-covered tables plus a grassy knoll for cartwheels on cool summer evenings. Shade score: 5/10. 3703 Main St., Occidental, altamontgeneralstore.com
Geyserville
The outdoor patio at Catelli’s in Geyserville. (Catelli’s)
Catelli’s
Lasagna with paper-thin layers of pasta and a tried-and-true meat sauce is a signature dish worth the trip north. Chef Domenica Catelli is one of Sonoma County’s bright lights, committed to using the best local ingredients. The expansive outdoor area with black and white tiles is iconic — and one of the best event spaces in Sonoma County. Shade score: 6/10. 21047 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, mycatellis.com
Diavola
You’ll swear you’re in Italy at this temple of charcuterie, wood-fired pizza and unmatched pasta entrées. The cheeky hanging laundry that lines the walkway to the back patio completes the experience. Shade score: 9/10. 21021 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, diavolapizzeria.com
Sonoma Coast
People dine on fresh seafood at Fishetarian in Bodega Bay. (Kim Carroll)
Fishetarian
This is as about as close as it gets to eating on the water. Though it’s less than fancy and you’ll get a snoot full of low tide from time to time, the casual picnic tables and chill vibe make it a fave. Shade score 3/10. 599 Highway 1 S. at Lucas Wharf, Bodega Bay, 707-875-9092, fishetarianfishmarket.com
Fisherman’s Cove
This no-nonsense family-owned seafood shack and fishing-marine supply store specializes in fresh local oysters harvested from Tomales Bay. The crab sandwich rivals nearby Spud Point. Shade score: 4/10. 1850 Bay Flat Road, Bodega Bay, 707-377-4238, fishermanscovebodegabay.com
Rocker’s Roadhouse
There’s often live music and dancing on the large back patio of this funky eatery and saloon in the historic Valley Ford Hotel. A mix of local oysters and Southern-influenced comfort foods using local ingredients make this a top stop. Shade score: 8/10. 14415 Highway 1, Valley Ford, rockeroysterfellers.com
Waterhawk Lake Club will open July 30 in Rohnert Park. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
The former Bear Republic location in Rohnert Park will reopen July 30 as Waterhawk Lake Club.
BiteClub got a first look. So far, thumbs up.
The owners of Petaluma’s Brewsters Beer Garden have taken over the space. The property has been completely refreshed with luxe outdoor picnic tables, an expansive view of Roberts Lake, a fully revamped interior and full bar with cocktails from beverage director Cappy Sorentino.
Cocktails at Waterhawk Lake Club in Rohnert Park. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
“We’re really leaning into being on the water,” Brewsters co-owner Mike Goebel said in April, when the new restaurant was first announced.
Live music will be featured outside, and it’s set to be a great summer hangout.
Brewsters Beer Garden (229 Water St. North) opened in 2016 with 350 seats in the heart of downtown Petaluma. Its picnic-style tables and open-air dining became especially popular during the pandemic, providing a much-needed respite for families and diners when lockdown restrictions were eased. General manager Ben Hetzel and beverage director Sorentino are also co-owners.
Waterhawk Lake Club, 5000 Roberts Lake Road, Rohnert Park, thewaterhawk.com
This two-bedroom, one-and-a-half bathroom craftsman home in the historic Oakhill-Brewster neighborhood in Petaluma is currently listed for $1,150,000. (Julian Rundle)
A beautifully preserved craftsman home in the historic Oakhill-Brewster neighborhood in Petaluma is currently listed for $1,150,000. The circa-1920 two-bedroom, one-and-a-half bathroom residence spans 1,277 square feet on a 9,004-square-foot property.
The dwelling stuns with original details, like stain-grade redwood woodwork — contrasted sumptuously with teal paint in the kitchen and a rich-green floral wallpaper in the dining room. Plus, a front porch, French doors, and a large kitchen and pantry with generous cabinetry.
Upgrades like Marvin dual-pane windows seal up the vintage charm with modern-day, energy-efficient insulation.
Kitchen in historic Petaluma craftsman home. (Julian Rundle)Dining room and living room in Petaluma craftsman home. (Julian Rundle)
A detached two-story barn has storage and a workshop space. The unit is topped with one-bedroom, one-bathroom guest quarters with a kitchenette and skylights.
The yard has many seating areas and is exceptionally landscaped with raised beds, fruit trees and a super lush collection of plantings.
For more information on this home at 306 Howard St. in Petaluma, contact listing agents Jeremy and Peg King, LivXplore Real Estate and Lifestyle, 707-338-8821, pegking.com, livxplore.com
Freshly picked strawberries at Piano Farm in Bloomfield on Wednesday, July 28, 2021. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)
Ruby-red strawberry juice drips down your chin and your hands are sticky and stained purple with blackberries. It’s the joy of summer, when fresh fruit not only flourishes but can be savored right from the garden at roadside stands or from u-pick farms. Then, as the beloved Gravenstein ripens in late July, you can pick apples in and around Sebastopol. Here are a few favorite spots for procuring berries, apples and other produce.
Kokopelli Farm, Sebastopol
Boysenberries, Blackberries and Raspberries: This organic farm, owned and operated by Shepherd Bliss, has been in business for over 30 years. The farm welcomes berry pickers by appointment only and also has an on-site farm stand. Call 707-829-8185 to make an appointment. The best time for berry picking is in the morning; that’s when the berries taste the best, says farmer Shepherd. Youth over 15 are welcome. 1543 Cunningham Road, Sebastopol, 707-829-8185
Earthseed Farm, Sebastopol
Blackberries, Raspberries, Plums, Pluots, Apples: This 14-acre solar-powered organic farm and orchard in Sebastopol is operated in accordance with Afro Indigenous permaculture principles. It welcomes berry and fruit pickers by appointment on select days in July and August (find upcoming u-pick dates on the farm’s website). Plums, pluots, blackberries, raspberries and a variety of apples are available in the summer. 3175 Sullivan Road, Sebastopol, 707-829-0617, earthseedfarm.org
San Francisco resident Erica Stinemates heads out after picking blackberries to make jam at EARTHseed Farm in Sebastopol. (Beth Schlanker/The Press Democrat)At Boring Farm, a u-pick raspberry farm in Sebastopol. (Boring Farm)
Boring Farm, Sebastopol
Raspberries: This family-friendly, certified organic red raspberry u-pick farm welcomes berry pickers on Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. from June through September. Make reservations online and check the farm’s Facebook page for the latest info. There is plenty of space for a post berry picking picnic by the ponds. Raspberries are $11.99 per pound. 4200 Canfield Road, Sebastopol, theboringfarm.com
West County Community Farm, Sebastopol
Produce, Herbs and Flowers: Formerly known as Green Valley Community Farm, this Sebastopol farm offers a special Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) membership program that allows members to pick flowers, herbs and seasonal crops from June through Thanksgiving. The farm grows over 20 varieties of edible and cut flowers, over 20 varieties of perennial and annual herbs, and a vast assortment of produce, from strawberries and cherry tomatoes to pumpkins and sugar snap peas. Due to its popularity, the farm’s 2025 CSA program is currently full, and a waitlist is available for when spots open up. 1720 Cooper Road, Sebastopol, westcountycommunityfarm.com
Lao’s Strawberry Stand, Sebastopol
Strawberries: Easier than U-pick, but just as fresh: Lao Saetern’s wood shack brims with baskets of super-sweet, glistening, gorgeous strawberries he personally farms. Expect long lines and, sometimes, rationing of the precious nibbles to one basket per person. 5556 Sebastopol Ave., Sebastopol, just west of Duer Road, 916-860-2945
Muoang Saetern and her husband Ryan make the long drive from Visalia to run the sales from the Highway 12 strawberry stand near Sebastopol for their father Lao so he can spend the weekend caring for the equipment in the fields Sunday, May 19, 2024. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)Torn Saetern loads up on flats of strawberries between rushes of customer at the strawberry stand on Watmaugh Road at Arnold Drive in Sonoma Wednesday, May 15, 2024. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Watmaugh Strawberries, Sonoma
Strawberries: Another popular stop for strawberries, this farm stand on Arnold Drive at W. Watmaugh Road, just south of the town of Sonoma, sells just-picked berries that are ripe all the way through and still warm from the sun. The stand occasionally sells produce other than strawberries, like apricots, cherries, peaches and nectarines. Check their Facebook page for hours of operation. 1120 Watmaugh Road, Sonoma, 916-807-1538
Duckworth Family Farm, Sebastopol
Blueberries: This Sebastopol farm is open for u-pick blueberries in June — their season lasts only seven weekends so make sure to contact the farm beforehand as the growing season varies each year, or sign up for the farm’s newsletter for updates on blueberry picking. After harvesting berries, guests can treat themselves to blueberry ice cream made right on the farm. Reservations, made online, are required. 2950 Canfield Road, Sebastopol, 707-829-7999, duckworthfarmblueberries.com
Lorri Duckworth helps pick Blueberries with Goldridge firefighters for their annual pancake breakfast at the Duckworth Family Farm in Sebastopol, Thursday, June 29, 2023. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)Aaron Brown, in white shirt, and Colin Blackshear at Ratzlaff Ranch, where they press their fruit. (Kim Carroll)
Apple-A-Day Ratzlaff Ranch, Sebastopol
Golden Delicious and Roman Beauties: This family-run farm in Sebastopol grows apples and pears and makes apple juice. U-pick of Golden Delicious and Roman Beauties is offered in September and October and Gravensteins are available for purchase when in season (from late July). Visit website or Facebook page for updates. 13128 Occidental Road, Sebastopol, 707-823-0538, appleadayranch.com
Chileno Valley Ranch, Petaluma
Apples: Mike and Sally Gale bought this Petaluma ranch in 1993 and have since planted 400 apple trees. They welcome apple pickers on Sundays starting in September and stay open for picking as long as there are apples. Honey, lavender and baked goods will be available to purchase. $10 entry fee per family; apples are $2 per pound. 5105 Chileno Valley Road, Petaluma, 707-765-6664, mikeandsallygalebeefranch.com
3 year old Rafi Brenman eating his way through the orchard at Chileno Valley Ranch in Petaluma. (The Press Democrat, file)
Shone Farm, Forestville
Berries, Flowers and Cherry Tomatoes: Santa Rosa Junior College’s student-run farm in west county will hold u-picks on select Fridays in July and August. They will also be selling cut flowers, beef and other goods like olive oil and berry preserves. Free parking and admission. See website and Instagram for details and updates. 7450 Steve Olson Lane, Forestville, 707-535-3702, shonefarm.santarosa.edu
Laguna Gold Fruit Co., Santa Rosa
Peaches: The farm has 16 varieties of peaches (both white and yellow) to choose from while walking through the 10-acre orchard. Upon arriving, guests will receive picking baskets that hold up to 10 pounds of fruit and directions to the ripest peaches. U-pick season is from the first of July through the end of August. Open 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. on Saturdays. 2600 Laguna Road, Santa Rosa, 707-322-5806, lagunagoldfruit.com
Kaila Bohler, Charlie Wiltsee and Maci Martell contributed to this article.
This contemporary farmhouse-style Kenwood home on one acre is currently listed for $1,295,000. (Michael Lounibos)
A contemporary Kenwood home with cheerful farmhouse style is currently listed for sale. The three-bedroom, two-bathroom dwelling sits on an acre — enough land for a starter farm. The asking price is $1,295,000.
The 2021-build enjoys the days-gone-by charm of scalloped and vertical siding, plus double-hung windows and a front porch. The interior is cozy with stone-topped stained cabinetry, a gaslit fireplace and lots of sunlight.
Living room in the farmhouse-style Kenwood home. (Michael Lounibos)Covered patio with lights and hydrangeas at the contemporary Kenwood home. (Michael Lounibos)
Solar power, a back-up generator and an EV charger in the detached garage address sustainability needs.
The large property enjoys shrubs and trees, but ample space is ready for additional plantings. The surrounding farmland, vineyards and mountain vistas can jumpstart the inspiration.
The pool area at Flamingo Resort in Santa Rosa. (Stephanie Russo / Flamingo Resort)
Wine Country is home to a long list of swanky hotels and resorts. More than simply places to rest your head, many of these properties also have sparkling pools that offer the perfect place to beat the heat and relax. Book a weekend away or a staycation — some of these pools can also be accessed with a day pass.
Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa, Sonoma
Sit back and relax or jump right in. The main pool averages 88 degrees. Day passes are available Monday through Friday and can be booked through the resort or ResortPass.
The geothermal mineral pools at the Willow Stream Spa flow from more than 1,000 feet below the surface. The spa pools and hot tub are open year-round for guests 18 years and older. There is a $69 fee for hotel guests to use the spa facilities. Non-resort guests pay $99–$199. The access fee may be waived when booking a spa treatment, depending on the service selected, time and availability. 100 Boyes Blvd., Sonoma, 707-938-9000, fairmont.com/sonoma
The pool at Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa in Sonoma. (Sonoma County Tourism)The pool at The Lodge at Sonoma. (The Lodge at Sonoma)
The Lodge at Sonoma, Sonoma
Enjoy the spirit of summer at the main pool and hot tub. If you are not staying at the hotel, you can purchase a day pass to the pool through ResortPass. 1325 Broadway at Leveroni and Napa Roads, Sonoma, 707-935-6600, lodgeatsonoma.com
MacArthur Place, Sonoma
Surrounded by trees and blooming gardens, this midcentury modern pool offers a quiet spot to soak up some vitamin D or make a splash. Day spa guests, who have booked a 50-minute spa treatment at The Spa at MacArthur, are welcome to use the pool. 29 E. MacArthur St., Sonoma, 707-938-2929, macarthurplace.com
The pool at MacArthur Place Hotel and Spa in Sonoma. (MacArthur Place Hotel and Spa)The pool at Gaige House in Glen Ellen. (Gaige House)
Gaige House, Glen Ellen
The serene setting along Calabazas Creek ensures a relaxing day in the pool or hot tub. Bring that book you’ve been meaning to read for the longest time. 13540 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen, 707-935-0237, thegaigehouse.com
Olea Hotel, Glen Ellen
This pool (heated year-round) and hot tub are open 24/7. It is only accessible to hotel guests. 5131 Warm Springs Road, Glen Ellen, 707-996-5131, oleahotel.com
The pool at the Olea Hotel in Glen Ellen. (Sonoma County Tourism)Spa cabanas by the warming pool at Kenwood Inn & Spa. (Kenwood Inn & Spa)
Kenwood Inn & Spa, Kenwood
In addition to the main pool and hot tub, this resort also features an adults-only warming pool. Cabana rentals are available for overnight guests only, with rates from $349 for up to two people. Spa guests who book a massage can add on pool access Monday through Thursday for $50. 10400 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, 707-833-1293, kenwoodinn.com
Flamingo Resort & Spa, Santa Rosa
After a $20 million renovation in 2021, the Flamingo Resort boasts a pool area that’s more popular than ever. Hotel guests receive a wristband at check-in for pool access, and non-hotel guests can purchase day passes for the pool on ResortPass. Day guests are restricted to adults 21 and over; children are only permitted as hotel guests. Pool day passes start at $60. 2777 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-545-8530, flamingoresort.com
The pool at Flamingo Resort in Santa Rosa. (Stephanie Russo / Flamingo Resort)The new pool area at Vinarosa Resort & Spa in Santa Rosa. (Sonoma County Tourism)
Vinarosa Resort & Spa, Santa Rosa
Formerly Vintners Resort & Spa, Vinarosa has recently unveiled a new outdoor pool area featuring plush daybeds and private cabanas. The spa also boasts an indoor caldarium with a heated soaking pool for guests 18 years and older. If you’re not staying at the hotel, but have an appointment at the spa, you get access to the pool and all spa amenities. Day passes to the pool, as well as daybeds and cabanas, are available on ResortPass. 4350 Barnes Road, Santa Rosa, 707-575-7350, vinarosaresort.com
Farmhouse Inn, Forestville
Named among the best hotels in the country last year, this family-run inn has a lovely pool that’s heated from April to October, depending on the weather. The hot tub is toasty year-round. Only accessible to hotel guests. 7871 River Road, Forestville, 707-887-3300, farmhouseinn.com
The pool at Farmhouse Inn in Forestville. (Farmhouse Inn)The pool at Stavrand Russian River Valley in Guerneville. (Emma K Creative)
The Stavrand Russian River Valley, Guerneville
A day by the pool and hot tub at The Stavrand comes with views of the property’s awe-inspiring redwoods. 13555 Highway 116, Guerneville, 707-869-9093, thestavrand.com
Boon Hotel & Spa, Guerneville
This saline pool is a popular spot to unwind with a good book or glass of wine. If the pool is not too crowded, day spa guests are permitted to use the pool and hot tub for a maximum of two hours before or after their spa treatment. 14711 Armstrong Woods Road, Guerneville, 707-869-2721, boonhotels.com
Sip on a cocktail or a glass of Sonoma wine from the Honor Bar by the pool at Boon Hotel + Spa in Guerneville. (Boon Hotel + Spa)The pool area at The Madrona in Healdsburg. (Daniel Seung Lee)
The Madrona, Healdsburg
Located in the center of the property, the saltwater pool is flanked by citrus groves and the estate garden. Food and beverage service is available poolside. 1001 Westside Road, Healdsburg, 707-395-6700, themadronahotel.com
The pool at Montage Healdsburg. (Montage Healdsburg)The pool area at Harmon Guest House in Healdsburg. (Harmon Guest House)
Harmon Guest House, Healdsburg
This solar-heated pool’s creekside location has a peaceful vibe and plenty of shade thanks to surrounding trees. Only accessible to hotel guests. 227 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-922-5449, harmonguesthouse.com
Hotel Healdsburg, Healdsburg
Surrounded by a garden with roses, hydrangea, olive and fig trees, it’s easy to lose a day relaxing by the 60-foot pool and bubbling hot tub. Only accessible to hotel guests. 25 Matheson St., Healdsburg, 707-431-2800, hotelhealdsburg.com
Pool area at Hotel Healdsburg. (Hotel Healdsburg)The pool at h2hotel in Healdsburg. (Kim Carroll / h2hotel)
H2hotel, Healdsburg
Located steps away from the lobby, this pool is flanked by comfy loungers. Only accessible to hotel guests. 219 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-431-2202, h2hotel.com
Hotel Trio, Healdsburg
The pool and neighboring bocce court are located in the center of the hotel property. Outside seating, fire pits and gas barbecue grills make the nearby patio area a favorite spot to enjoy the end of the day. Only accessible to hotel guests. 110 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-4000, hoteltrio.com
The pool at Hotel Trio in Healdsburg. (Hotel Trio)The pool area of the Graton Resort and Casino in Rohnert Park. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
Graton Resort & Casino, Rohnert Park
Live DJ entertainment by the pool is available daily along with food and drinks served poolside, which can be enjoyed on a plush daybed (starting at $150) or inside a private cabana (starting at $250). Pool day passes, which include one beverage with purchase, are $55 and are available at the resort’s gift and lobby shops. Must be a guest at the hotel or spa, have a pool day pass, or have daybed/cabana reservations to access the pool. Pool guests must be 21 or older. 288 Golf Course Drive, Rohnert Park, 707-588-7100, gratonresortcasino.com
The pool area at Francis Ford Coppola Winery in Geyserville. (Francis Ford Coppola Winery)
Francis Ford Coppola Winery, Geyserville
Although you can’t stay overnight at this winery, its 3,600-square-foot pool still deserves a spot on this list. Swimmers and sunbathers can dry off and play bocce ball, dine at the Pool Café or Rustic restaurant and head inside the winery to visit the tasting room or check out Coppola’s collection of movie memorabilia. Cabine reservations are required. 300 Via Archimedes, Geyserville, 707-857-1471, thefamilycoppola.com
Michelle Patino, a Kaiser ER nurse, helped to create a medical clinic at the Petaluma Fairgrounds for fire evacuees. Photo taken at the Petaluma Fairgrounds in Petaluma, on Thursday, November 9, 2017. (BETH SCHLANKER/ The Press Democrat)
On sweltering days, of which there are plenty in these parts, the interior of Mongos Ice House in Montgomery, Texas, stays dark and cool behind big, reflective glass windows. Video gambling machines line the walls, cigarette smoke hovers in the air, and the crowd at this strip-mall dive 50 miles north of Houston leans local but friendly, in a Texas way.
Mounted on a post by the bar is a bell with a handwritten sign: “Ring the bell, buy a round for the house!”
An occasional ebullient video jackpot winner might give the bell’s rope a tug, patrons say, but it didn’t ring often.
That is, until the Californian with the big bank account came to town.
Michelle Patino, founder of a Sonoma County-based company called DEMA Consulting and Management, purchased a condo next to Lake Conroe, one of Montgomery’s chief attractions, in November 2022. She soon developed a reputation as a big spender at the local watering hole.
On the left, Michelle Patino, RN, Owner/CEO of DEMA consulting and management, with Administration Drive site manager Monica Flores at the Sonoma County complex, Thursday, April 13, 2023. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
It became one of the better bets at Mongos that if Patino was there, “that bell was going to ring once or twice a night,” one patron said last fall. He, like two other regulars who shared their recollections for this story, asked to remain anonymous. They didn’t want to be labeled gossips in a small town, and they worried about retribution or harassment from Patino.
“It’s her way of showing off ‘I got money,’ and people congregated to her,” the regular said. “She’s throwing it away.”
Another person who saw Patino’s bar tabs said that each ring of the bell would cost hundreds of dollars, sometimes more than a thousand, depending on the crowd. Patino tipped well, regularly adding $300 to $400 to the already hefty tabs. That person said Patino would buy rounds for the bar as often as once a week over the course of a year and a half. And she paid for other fun too, renting party buses for birthdays or to take a group to the world-famous rodeo in Houston.
It wasn’t all frivolity. At a charity auction to help a local woman with her medical bills, Patino ran up the bids, donating $2,000 for a cowboy hat and as much as $5,000 for two handguns.
Her largesse, according to the three people, also insulated Patino.
When two bartenders sought to ban Patino for aggressive behavior in August 2024, the owner overruled them, inviting her back despite a police restraining order, a copy of which was reviewed for this story.
Ultimately, the two bartenders, one a Mongos fixture for years, quit rather than deal with Patino, according to the three bar patrons.
The managed encampment run by DEMA at the county administrative campus in front of Permit Sonoma along Administration Drive in Santa Rosa, Wednesday June 28, 2023. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Before all that, Patino was leading a startup homeless services company with a lucrative no-bid contract in Sonoma County and had expanded its operations into Harris County, Texas, after Sonoma County’s former health director had taken over the top health services job there.
The former emergency room nurse started her company in the first months of the Covid-19 pandemic, hoping to aid local governments responding to disasters. The name DEMA reflects its mission: Disaster Emergency Medical Assistance. Two years ago this summer, The Press Democrat — now part of Media News Group, also the parent company of Sonoma magazine — published the first installment of a wide-ranging investigation into Patino and her company. Initially discounted by some county officials, that investigation triggered a probe that led to the discovery that $11 million or more in public money wasn’t properly accounted for.
Additionally, The Press Democrat identified two cases in which Patino’s relationships with county officials pushed ethical boundaries.
In one, Patino briefly hired the daughter of Tina Rivera, the then-Sonoma County Health Services director who oversaw DEMA’s contract. Patino said she paid Rivera’s daughter only about $600 during that short-lived work stint. But Rivera did not inform county officials of her daughter’s employment by DEMA, county administrator Christina Rivera, who is not related to Tina Rivera, told The Press Democrat.
In the other, Patino extended a consulting offer to the husband of Barbie Robinson, the former Sonoma County Health director who helped propel DEMA’s rise before moving to Texas and overseeing DEMA’s government work there. That instance, documented as part of a criminal case against Robinson in Texas that has since been dropped, came on top of previous reports that she had offered a consulting contract to Robinson.
In a September 2021 email to Robinson, obtained by the Houston Chronicle, Patino expressed frustration that she had been blocked from a contract to provide meals at Sonoma County homeless services sites DEMA had been managing. County officials told her DEMA’s proposal represented a conflict of interest. “I can guarantee we came in cheaper with more benefits with our bid,” she wrote to Robinson.
In other emails, Patino suggested hiring Robinson as a consultant for help with “legal issues we may have in California.” The offer came as DEMA was competing for a major contract to run a crisis response program in Harris County. Robinson sat on the selection committee, and that contract later became a focus of the now-ended criminal investigation in Texas.
The home of DEMA CEO Michelle Patino with two DEMA vans parked in the driveway Thursday, Feb. 13, 2025. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
In California, Patino has faced scrutiny from law enforcement, along with civil lawsuits filed by former employees.
FBI agents in February descended on her Santa Rosa home with a search warrant — part of a federal investigation about which little is known. No criminal charges related to DEMA have been filed.
Separately, Patino faces misdemeanor charges in Sonoma County after repeatedly violating a restraining order obtained by her estranged domestic partner and former business partner, Mica Pangborn.
In an interview with The Press Democrat late last year, Patino sought to blame the company’s accounting shortcomings on her ex, saying it was Pangborn that handled the company’s billing. But Pangborn has alleged in court it was Patino who controlled the company’s money. And in an acrimonious divorce proceeding, Pangborn has repeatedly sought spousal support from Patino.
Patino concedes she might have made mistakes as a novice government contractor. But she has repeatedly denied any wrongdoing regarding DEMA’s work. “I didn’t know all the rules, I didn’t know everything, but I also know that there’s ethical things and there’s morals and you don’t cross the line. I didn’t cross those lines,” she said late last year. “I’m a person of honesty and integrity. I don’t lie, cheat, or steal.”
In emails and remarks to the Sonoma County Board of Supervisors, Patino held herself up as a hero of the pandemic.
“This company [DEMA] fell in my lap, literally, and I was completely unprepared and had no idea what it all entailed except I knew how to save lives,” she wrote to county auditor Erick Roeser and other officials. “Did you actually think I was occupied with anything else? No. Too many people were dying (in the pandemic). I did not have a business plan and sought the county’s direction and advice on all matters.”
Indeed, Patino didn’t operate in a vacuum. Sonoma County officials pushed $27 million to Patino’s company, well above other homeless service provider contracts, with county auditor Roeser confirming flawed oversight over those funds.
Sonoma County officials have yet to publicly account for what went wrong. Nor have the county supervisors announced any internal inquiries beyond the limited financial investigation that uncovered $11 million in billing unsupported by records.
Tina Rivera, who directed the Sonoma County health department for much of DEMA’s tenure after inheriting oversight of the company from Barbie Robinson, resigned in August, saying she wanted to spend more time with her family.
Tina Rivera, Sonoma County’s Health Services director, in Santa Rosa, Friday, Feb. 18, 2022. Rivera notified the Board of Supervisors and top administrators last June that she was resigning. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)Barbie Robinson, (second from right) the former director of Sonoma County’s Department of Health Services, shown in a file photo outside the Sonoma County administration building in Santa Rosa on Sunday, March 15, 2020, at the start of the pandemic. Robinson stepped down from the job in May 2021 to take a job leading the health department in Harris County, Texas. She was fired from that job, Harris County’s top administrator announced Aug. 30, 2024. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Robinson was fired by Harris County a week after Rivera’s last day in California. Her dismissal came amid an investigation by former Harris County top prosecutor Kim Ogg, whose office filed its criminal case against Robinson during Ogg’s last months in office. Ogg, who lost her reelection bid in November, had often been at odds with Democratic Harris County commissioners, and her charges against Robinson added to other corruption cases she’d brought against government officials tied to Harris County Democrats.
Ogg’s successor, Sean Teare, dropped all the charges against Robinson in May, saying there wasn’t sufficient evidence to support the allegations of bid-rigging and corruption — including a lack of evidence that Robinson or her husband accepted any money from Patino.
In a statement announcing his decision, Teare suggested the case had been politically motivated. In response, Ogg suggested Teare dropped the cases to protect the county commissioners.
“Ms. Robinson is thankful that the truth has come to light and that this politically driven case is finally behind her,” Robinson’s attorney told Houston Public Media.
While the Texas case is over, the activity in February at Patino’s Santa Rosa house indicates continued interest from law enforcement here. FBI officials have declined to comment on the scope or thrust of their investigation in Northern California, which began in partnership with Santa Rosa police.
The vast majority of the money Sonoma County paid DEMA was to be reimbursed by the federal government through pandemic response funds. Under President Joe Biden’s administration, the U.S. Department of Justice criminally charged more than 3,500 people and seized more than $1.4 billion in assets as it chased down fraud across the spectrum of unprecedented government spending during the pandemic. It’s unclear what impact the Trump administration, which has brought significant changes to both the FBI and Federal Emergency Management Agency — the body county officials hoped would ultimately reimburse Sonoma County taxpayers for DEMA’s bills — could have on the situation.
Michelle Patino, a Kaiser Permanente ER nurse, helped to create a medical clinic at the Petaluma Fairgrounds for fire evacuees. Photo taken at the Petaluma Fairgrounds in Petaluma, on Thursday, Nov. 9, 2017. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Like so much of Sonoma County’s recent history, DEMA’s roots trace back to the fateful and deadly North Bay firestorms in 2017.
Back then, before the investigations and resignations, and before the bar tabs and luxury cars and new homes, Patino was an emergency room nurse and a hero.
She had only recently moved to the county from San Jose and was working in Kaiser Permanente’s Santa Rosa emergency room. Patino wasn’t on shift at the hospital during its dramatic evacuation in the early morning hours as the Tubbs Fire bore down on the facility. But waking up and learning the hospital was closed, she looked for a way to chip in. She and Pangborn were renting a home next to the Petaluma Fairgrounds at the time. The couple had just moved in together, Patino recounted in an August 2023 Press Democrat interview, and had duplicates of household items like pillows and blankets. They gathered bedding and brought it to an evacuation center coming together at the fairgrounds.
When they arrived, Patino found refugees who had fled their homes — many were elderly and had left without critical medications. They needed help. “I started going around talking to every single individual, getting all their medical history,” she recalled. She returned every day for weeks, bringing in other nurses and paramedics, and organized them into a health clinic with 30 beds. She worked 12- to 16-hour days, for days on end, she said.
“I’m one of those people that I just can go,” she said. “You get in those situations … I’m an adrenaline junkie, that’s why I work in the ER and those high [intensity] areas, and I just go, go, go, go.”
Two years later, she did the same thing during the Kincade Fire, she said. This time she responded to a call from a doctor who, according to Patino, told her, “Get over here … they don’t know what’s going on. We need to get this place up and going or people are going to die.”
Those experiences sparked the idea for DEMA.
In spring 2020, as public health officials scrambled to give people without stable housing infected with Covid-19 a place to ride out the virus, Petaluma Health Center enlisted Patino, this time at a county-run shelter at Sonoma State University.
Patino and Pangborn had filed paperwork to start DEMA as a nonprofit but didn’t complete the process. Soon after Patino started at the SSU site, Petaluma Health Center’s leadership decided it could not continue to run it.
Rivera and Robinson each point to the other as the first to bring DEMA on. Whatever the path, Patino stepped into the void. Rushing to get contracted and get to work, according to Patino, they registered DEMA as a sole proprietorship in her name, records show. The business designation gave Patino direct control over the company and, unlike with a nonprofit, limited public insight into revenue and expenses.
Registered nurse Lilly Briggs, right, administers the Moderna COVID-19 vaccine to Sabrina Nesbit at the DEMA, Disaster Emergency Medical Assistance, vaccination clinic, at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds in Santa Rosa on Monday, Feb. 22, 2021. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)
Soon, health officials were giving DEMA more and more control over the SSU site and putting other homeless care sites under their supervision.
“I’m one of those people, I don’t say no,” Patino said.
DEMA boomed. By December 2021, Patino had signed a contract with Rivera for up to $21 million, and DEMA would continue to receive expansions on those contracts for the next three years. Because of emergency orders issued during the pandemic, those contracts were issued and extended without competitive bidding, even after the company came under scrutiny.
Internal emails from the first months of the company obtained by The Press Democrat show Patino riding the rush of the company’s explosive growth.
“I am absolutely the luckiest girl in the world,” Patino wrote, closing out an email to her staff in October 2020. “I have an amazing wife, family, career, and now I have an amazing team that impresses and amazes me in every way every day … We are a unique set of professionals, with hearts of gold, and an abundance of varying skill sets. That makes you, that makes Team DEMA, one hell of a force to be reckoned with.”
Patino paid her employees well, according to nearly two dozen people who have spoken to The Press Democrat over the past two years. The high salaries made up for a work environment that was often chaotic, as Patino’s leadership alternated between charming and erratic, according to people who interacted closely with her.
Two former employees, one in California and one in Texas, sued the company over a workplace culture they described as discriminatory or toxic, and nearly all the former employees who spoke to The Press Democrat said they feared retaliation from Patino both during and after their time with the company. Pangborn, who was chief financial officer for DEMA, would ultimately accuse Patino of sustained domestic abuse over years of their relationship. In March 2024, Patino fired her partner days before Pangborn obtained a temporary restraining order from a judge, which has since been made permanent.
Patino spent the first year of the company’s life “saying she never took a paycheck for herself,” said a longtime DEMA employee who asked not to be named because he, like others, fears retaliation or harassment from Patino. But as time went on, he said, she began “boast(ing) about how much money she was making.”
Around the time of the fires, public records show both Patino and Pangborn faced financial difficulties. At least two banks were pursuing judgments against Patino in 2018, according to court records, and the IRS had tax liens on her and Pangborn that stretched into the tens of thousands of dollars.
DEMA quickly reversed their fortunes. According to public records, Patino and Pangborn bought a $628,000 house in Santa Rosa in June 2021, and purchased the Texas condo the following fall. In both cases, the public record holds no indication of a mortgage, implying a cash purchase. There are other signs of significant wealth from their company. DEMA purchased a warehouse in downtown Houston later in 2022, appraised at just under $300,000. Again, there is no public record of a mortgage, and the deed implies a cash purchase.
The couple’s divorce records indicate they also owned a 2023 Toyota 4Runner, a second, older model 4Runner, and a 2018 BMW. Then there’s the $50,000 camper purchased in June 2023 and the 2024 BMW coupe, valued by the California DMV at around $77,000, that Patino registered in April of that year. That last purchase sparked outrage among some of her Sonoma County employees, because it came as the company was collapsing and they had gone weeks without pay.
As the pandemic wore on, Patino sought to move beyond health care, as she put it, and began seeking other contracts involved in the shelter effort. Records and interviews show she tried to shift contracts for both food service and security from other vendors to DEMA.
A DEMA vehicle sits in the parking lot on the west side of the emergency shelter site at 400 Administration Drive in Santa Rosa, Thursday, May 23, 2024. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Despite the county auditor’s findings on DEMA’s flawed accounting practices early last year, Sonoma County supervisors never ordered a deeper investigation.
Supervisor David Rabbitt, the board’s chairman at that time, instead publicly called on the federal government to figure out whether any taxpayer dollars had been wasted in Sonoma County.
About eight months later, in December, Harris County commissioners voted to sever their ties to the company, ending its last remaining contract in January.
Patino remains in Texas, according to people familiar with her whereabouts. In a March filing, Patino’s Sonoma County lawyer asked to be removed as her counsel in a suit brought by a former DEMA paramedic against Patino and other DEMA officials over allegations of harassment and wrongful termination. The attorney told the judge Patino “has withdrawn to Texas” and stopped communicating with him and his firm. The judge granted his request. The case is currently set for trial in August.
Among Patino’s many troubles in the wake of DEMA is one that hits hard.
The California Board of Registered Nursing in October ordered her to undergo an examination of her mental and physical health after finding there was “reasonable cause to believe that (Patino) was unable to practice nursing with reasonable skill and safety to patients.”
That finding came in response to a complaint that is not public record, according to a board spokesperson.
But the regulator’s website indicates Patino never replied. In January, the board revoked the license she had held since 2001.
The license that enabled her to save lives.
The license that made her a hero.
Read The Press Democrat’s full investigation of the Sonoma County DEMA scandal here.
