Quesabirria meaty tacos with a side of consome from the Tacos Tijuana food truck at Shady Oak Barrel House in Santa Rosa on Friday, October 22, 2021. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
The well-worn Wagon Wheel Saloon in north Santa Rosa has been called many things over the years, but a food truck hot spot is not one of them — until now.
Once infamous for its cast of colorful (and sometimes felonious) characters, the faded green bar is now ground zero for some of the county’s best quesabirria.
In late May, fluttering banners advertised Tacos Tijuana would be coming to the 3320 Mendocino Ave. location. Curiously, the owners of Tacos Tijuana posted on social media that the business had permanently closed in May.
So, was the new Santana-themed mobile kitchen emblazoned with the Tacos Tijuana logo the same taco favorite, or an impostor?
Co-owner Uriel Brena considers it more like Tacos Tijuana 2.0. His former business partners, Miguel Canseco of Taqueria El Paisa and Chef Jose Rodriguez of El Fogon Taqueria, left the business after the truck struggled to make a profit in its first six months at Shady Oak Brewing, according to Brena.
“We tried really hard, but it just wasn’t paying the bills,” said Brena, who continues to handle the business side of the food truck. A marketing professional and political consultant by day, Brena got into the restaurant business after volunteering his services to local restaurants during the pandemic. That led to co-ownership in Tacos Tijuana, whose tasty quesabirria tacos were tapped as favorites by The Press Democrat.
So, without partners, and stuck with a $60,000 used food truck, Brena decided to forge ahead and strike a deal with the Wagon Wheel’s owners to host the mobile kitchen. Tacos Tijuana’s original chef, Edwin Hernandez, and two of Hernandez’s family members have become Brena’s new business partners.
The menu remains much the same, with their signature quesabirria — a crispy, cheesy, beefy handful of happiness — as good as it ever was. New items are coming onto the menu weekly, including conchinita pibil and tacos al vapor (steamed tacos).
ChoriVegan nachos with black beans, vegan chorizo, vegan mozzarella cheese, bell peppers, avocado, vegan sour cream, diced green onions, dice tomatoes, chopped cilantro, avocado and green salsa from the Tacos Tijuana food truck at Shady Oak Barrel House in Santa Rosa on Oct. 22, 2021. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
In early July, chicken parmigiana and Philly cheesesteak sandwiches will also be added to the menu, Brena said. He tapped Chef Gerard Giudice from Sally Tomatoes Catering and the Heirloom Cafe in Rohnert Park to help perfect his sandwich game after working with Giudice on his successful campaign for Rohnert Park City Council.
Brena plans to add his mother’s chile rellenos as part of an expanded vegetarian menu that includes Soyrizo Nachos, zucchini blossom quesadillas and huitlacoche (a corn fungus with a mushroom-like flavor) tacos. He cautions that although the items are prepared vegetarian and vegan, the grill is also used to cook meat.
For now, quesabirria remains the top seller, but meatless options like the flor de calabaza (squash blossom) are also popular. Paired with a stiff gin and tonic at the Wagon Wheel, you can’t possibly go wrong.
3320 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa. Open 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily with $1 tacos on Tuesday. Delivery orders at 707-296-3000. More details on their Instagram page, @tacostijuana707. Parking can be a little tricky, and the only exit is a right turn onto Mendocino Avenue.
Banh mi tacos at Lagunitas Brewing in Petaluma. (Heather Irwin/Press Democrat)
It’s the loveliest time of year in Sonoma County, when farm stands are laden with fresh strawberries, flower bouquets and first-of-the-season tomatoes. Boozy outdoor brunches and face-plants into giant waffle cones are now seasonally appropriate, along with hogging a lovely patio table for a little too long.
So, in the spirit of gas economy and weekend adventures, here are 15 recently discovered summery Sonoma County spots worth visiting. They’re all shorts- and sundress-approved and waiting for you to put your Hot Girl (or Boy) summer bod on the back burner and enjoy the delicious things in life.
Santa Rosa
Mangonada from Fru-ta: If summer had a flavor, it would be the sweet, sour, salty, spicy, icy mangonada at Fru-ta. Made with fresh mango, mango sorbet, lime, chamoy (a pickled stone fruit condiment) and lime and dusted with Tajin, it’s everything a cold drink should be. The tamarind paste-wrapped straw just adds to the puckery deliciousness. Pairs perfectly with Takilocos, a mixed bag of Takis rolled corn chips, peanuts, cucumber, lime, jicama and pickled pork rinds. Three Santa Rosa locations: 2770 Stony Point Road, 52 Mission Circle and 3080 Marlow Road. frutaicecream.com. Open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily.
A Mangonada made by Teresita Fernandez at La Michoacana in Sonoma. The drink consists of blended fresh mango with ice, swirled chamoy sauce, topped with mango chunks and tamarind candy, and a tamarind stick. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)
Shady Oak Barrel House: We love the lineup of food trucks as much as the funky beers at this downtown Santa Rosa brewery. Hang at the picnic tables in the back with some of the area’s best food trucks and pop-ups, including Smackin’ Soul Food, pizza from SoCo Supper Club or burgers from Lunch Box. 420 First St., 707-575-7687, shadyoakbarrelhouse.com. Open 3 to 9 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday.
Geyserville
Rosé at Locals Tasting Room: Yes, Virginia, you still can taste wine for free. Though no purchase is required to sample the nearly 80 wines, chances are you’ll find at least one bottle to buy from this collective tasting room. The Dernier-Handal chenin blanc blend is a favorite summer sipper. 21023 Geyserville Ave., 707-814-0713, localstastingroom.com. Open 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday.
Dank beer and barbecued lamb at Corner Project Ales and Eats: At this family-run brewpub in Geyserville, one brother brews while the other operates the kitchen. More than just fried pub grub, Chef Tom Adamian’s menu includes lots of comforting dishes like meatball sliders, pulled lamb on focaccia with preserved lemons, and a perfect pickled veggie sando on thick slices of bread (my favorite). They also sell beers from other brewers; try the funky Smelltron 3030 from Santa Rosa’s Cooperage Brewing Co. or the super-refreshing Lavender Radler from Rohnert Park-based Old Caz Beer. 21079 Geyserville Ave., 707-814-0110, cornerprojectales.com. Open noon to 8 p.m. Thursday through Saturday, noon to 3 p.m. Sunday.
Healdsburg
La-Yu from SingleThread Farm: The owners of Healdsburg’s SingleThread restaurant have opened their new Dry Creek Valley farm stand, selling fresh flowers and perfect produce ($6 strawberries, worth every penny), as well as artisan donabe clay cooking pots, handcrafted knives and bespoke dishes used at the restaurant. Don’t miss larder items like Chunky La-Yu (chile oil), barrel-aged ponzu and yuzu kosho, a Japanese condiment made with chiles and citrus. 2836 Dry Creek Road, singlethreadfarms.com. Open 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Thursday through Monday.
Wine and pizza at Bacchus Landing: An impressive collection of tasting rooms that feature exceptional wines, including AldenAlli (a collaboration between Dan Kosta of Kosta Browne Winery and celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse), The Setting Wines (vintner Jesse Katz of Aperture Cellars) and Smith Story Wine Cellars (Alison Story). Though Bacchus Landing looks like a faux Tuscan villa, there’s plenty of space to lounge, sip and nibble, with a new wood-fired pizza oven and frequent food trucks and pop-ups, including Black Piglet and Bayou on the Bay. 14210 Bacchus Landing Way, 707-395-0697, bacchuslanding.com. Open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Thursday through Monday.
The Smith Story Wines tasting room at Bacchus Landing in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of Smith Story Wines)
Thai at Tuesdays on the Plaza: This relaxed Tuesday gathering with mostly locals features music, arts and our favorite Thai food pop-up, Sangsan. Look for Thai wok omelets and strawberry milk ice from chefs Ploypailin Sakornsin and Jeremy Kuo (both SingleThread alums). Open 5 to 8 p.m. Tuesday on the Healdsburg Plaza and 8:30 a.m. to noon Saturday at the Healdsburg farmers market, sangsanhealdsburg.com.
Monte Rio
Shakshuka at Lightwave Coffee & Kitchen: Located at the Creekside skate park in Monte Rio, this curious little cafe sells smoothies, bagels and Middle Eastern cuisine, including rich, tomato-based shakshuka. Watch for freshly baked desserts and creative specials from owners Ori and Gal Ginzburg. Or just grab a coffee from the walk-up window and watch the gnarly board slides and cringeworthy lip skids. 9725 Main St., 707-865-5169, lightwavecafe.square.site. Open 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday.
Petaluma
Strawberries at Stony Point Strawberry Farm Stand: Insiders know this is the spot for the best strawberries. This organic fruit and vegetable farm sells berries still warm from the sun. 735 Stony Point Road, 510-917-0514. Open 8:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily.
Lagunitas Taproom: There’s plenty of fun to be had for humans and dogs at this family-friendly, convivial Petaluma beer garden. The sprawling semi-covered outdoor space has picnic tables for people and plenty of slobbery water bowls for thirsty pooches. Seasonal offerings and tasty grub make it a must. 1280 McDowell Blvd., 707-778-8776, lagunitas.com. Open 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday.
Banh mi tacos at Lagunitas Brewing in Petaluma. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
Sebastopol
Piggy Punch at Third Pig Bar: This brand-spanking-new bar from the owners of Graton’s Bowman Cellars serves fresh craft cocktails, including the dangerously delicious Piggy Punch made with rum, Swedish Punsch, chicha morada (a purple corn drink), lime and cardamom bitters. They come in piggy cocktail glasses, and you’ll be oinking for more. Classic cocktails like the Mai Tai and Southside (gin, lime, orange bitters and mint) warm the summery, garden-like space. 116 S. Main St., thirdpigbar.com. Open 4 to 10 p.m. Wednesday and Thursday, 4 p.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday.
Singing Frogs Farm at the Sebastopol farmers market: There are so many local farms and farmers markets to love, but this Sunday market has the goods from my favorite permaculture, regenerative, sustainable farms in Sonoma County, including Singing Frogs Farm, a family-run, no-till farm that’s won many awards for its methods. The best of west county is at the Sebastopol market, along with J.E.S. plant-based foods, The Green Grocer and more. 6908 Weeks Way, 707-522-9305, sebastopolfarmmarket.org. Open 10:30 a.m. to 1 p.m. Sunday.
Sonoma
Dinner and a movie at Delicious Dish: Family-safe(ish) cult movies like “Cry Baby” and “Airplane!” pair with a casual patio dinner and plenty of fun at this Sonoma restaurant and catering company. The July 9 dinner (with Johnny Depp as Cry Baby) pays homage to Baltimore with fried green tomato and blue crab melts, Old Bay chips, peach and tomato salad and Baltimore’s famous fudge-iced Berger cookies. 18709 Arnold Drive, 707-721-4231. By reservation only, at deliciousdishsf.com/popup.
Picnic before the show at Transcendence: A night at Jack London State Historic Park watching Broadway stars perform has become a summer tradition. If you’re planning to go, one of the best parts of the evening is the dining experience before the show. You can pack a picnic, but it’s far more fun to grab food from one of several food trucks parked on the grass. Premium picnic table spots can be reserved for $50 when you purchase your tickets. 2400 London Ranch Road, Glen Ellen, 877-424-1414, transcendencetheatre.org.
Windsor
Tea time at Fleur Sauvage Chocolates: After years at farmers markets, Chef Robert Nieto opened his first brick-and-mortar store and kitchen in late 2021. It’s a gourmet dessert wonderland with truffles and cakes from one of the world’s top pastry chefs. Now he and wife Tara have started a Wine Country Tea Time with sweet and savory goodies. 370 Windsor River Road, 707-892-2162, fleursauvagechocolates.com, by appointment only.
Glamping tent at the campground at Sugarloaf Ridge State Park. (Sugarloaf Ridge State Park)
Whether you prefer to camp under a canopy of redwoods or near waves crashing on a beach, you’re sure to find your ideal campground in Sonoma County. Click through the above gallery for a few favorite camping spots.
A masterful new home built in up-to-date, mid-century style is available in Sonoma. The four-bedroom, four-bath, 4,080-square-foot home situated on a hilltop overlooking the Sonoma Valley and San Francisco is available for $9.95 million.
The home’s design by San Francisco-based firm Klopf Architecture embraces mid-century modern tastes to the fullest. This popular design preference doesn’t seem to be going anywhere given our love of seamless indoor/outdoor spaces and the tranquil aesthetic modern designs can offer. Eichler values are fully intact in this design: floor-to-ceiling windows, flat roofs, visible beams and squeaky clean lines with no ornamentation. But a lack of ornamentation doesn’t mean a lack of sumptuousness.
White oak cabinets and Calacatta marble provide rich texture in the kitchen. (Paul Rollins)
The design impact manages to be both strong and subtle. A simply designed cabinet gains its warmth through the rich white oak it’s made from. Calacatta and statuary marbles provide natural but bold accents in the bathrooms and kitchen. Floor-to-ceiling windows just can’t fail on this lot. The sky views at the top of the hill have a dreamy up-in-the-clouds feel.
Staging by Los Angeles-based Meridith Baer Home, with the input of listing agent Ginger Martin, follows through on understated design to achieve maximum beauty. Modern furniture — like armchairs in playful round shapes — adheres strictly to a white, black or tonal palette. Color is used with extreme restraint. There are ribbons of pale blue in a large abstract painting. Produce in dishes successfully serve as the color accents in the single-tone kitchen. The home provides a perfect example of how subtlety can really stun.
Outside, an infinity edge pool keeps the “invisible” aesthetic going. Three repeating wave-shaped lawn chairs with white and gray pillows add a sense of graceful movement and discipline. It’s a bit of an echo to what the architect calls “a rhythmic post and beam design” — referring to the repeating design element along the rear exterior of the home.
Outside, an infinity edge pool keeps the “invisible” aesthetic going. (Paul Rollins)
Landscape by San Francisco-based Arterra Landscape Architects consists of a few plantings chosen for water conservation and fire resistance, according to Martin. The design allows the natural rocky setting to take center stage, while bits of greenery have been added for a subtle sense of lushness. A few rocky outcroppings frame the views and take on the presence of abstract art.
The design takeaway is strong in this home. The concept of “less is more” is very present. It isn’t minimalist, but rather a thoughtful layering of well-designed pieces, exquisite materials and a few playful elements. Sky views don’t hurt either.
This home at 2979 Wood Valley Road is listed by Ginger Martin and Matthew Joseph of Sotheby’s International Realty, 1229 Adams St., St. Helena, 415-516-3939, ginger@gingermartin.com, gingermartin.com.
A sizable home and ADU (2,950 square feet and 1,200 square feet, respectively) with a super-modern meets beachy style is for sale in Petaluma. The dwellings — which together have four bedrooms and four bathrooms — have been renovated into a contemporary style that veers from some of the lovable modern trends we’re seeing right now. It isn’t farmhouse, and it’s not classic mid-century either. The original home was built in 1995 and has been reimagined for living and relaxing according to today’s tastes.
The home has a simple style with the ever-popular whited-out look to give off the calm feel people are craving in today’s busy and visually noisy world. But the tranquility-forward aesthetic has some rich color thrown in. Many stained wood elements are included, such as flooring, bookshelves, kitchen cabinets and furniture.
Elements like aqua-colored dining chairs and multi-colored textiles add vibrant color to the stained woods and white walls of the ADU. (Rob Sullivan – Vanguard Properties)
There are brilliant touches of bright color, too: deep blue tile in the ADU’s kitchen, orange umbrellas outside and a welcome sea-foam-colored paint in the bathroom (hello, ’90s). These elements come together to make an inspired and soothing environment.
When you learn that the homeowners lived in Hawaii, it makes sense that this home would have those satisfying beachy vibes. But there are no clichés here. It’s not all starfish pillows or “sandy feet” signs. The home just borrows the pretty palette of the oceanside for its subdued tropical appearance.
An ADU sits on a second story above the garage offering panoramic views. The design elements are not an afterthought. Details like aqua-colored dining chairs and multi-colored textiles add vibrant color to the stained woods and white walls.
The home’s sparse and tranquil vibes are carried outside to a stone patio with a simple rectangular pool and hot tub combo. (Rob Sullivan – Vanguard Properties)
The sparse and tranquil vibes are carried outside to a simple rectangular pool and spa combo. The bottom of the pool is lined with pebbles that provide a sensory treat for world-weary feet. The black pebble bottom absorbs temperatures well, according to listing agent Rob Sullivan, allowing the pool to heat on its own. Plants grow separated in “islands” — a disciplined look that’s modern both visually and in terms of fire resistance.
The homeowners tended to a variety of details, from a fire-safe steel roof to super-convenient motorized blinds.
All of this living space is priced at $3.2 million.
A group of friends lounge poolside with glasses of wine at Francis Ford Coppola Winery in Geyserville, California on Saturday, September 3, 2016. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
You know the drill. No sooner is the Memorial Day barbecue consumed than you turn your fantasies to summer — all those fantabulous things you’re going to do with the hot days and nights lingering ahead. Then suddenly it’s September, and we find ourselves staring down a dull plate of Nothingburger on Labor Day, cursing the summer that once again got away from us.
That doesn’t have to be your fate. Wherever you find yourself on the calendar, vow to turn it around now. Indulge in a Wicked Slush at Amy’s, book a night at Broadway Under the Stars, take that long-imagined float down the Russian River, or dive into the pool at Morton’s Warm Springs or Coppola Winery.
Those memorable summer moments can be as simple as beer with a dog at Stumptown, a beach day at Russian Gulf or a free concert in Juilliard Park. Mix it up with a big bite off your bucket list by skydiving in Cloverdale or learning to surf in Bodega Bay. Deciding can leave us frozen. So we’ve sifted through a multitude of options to come up with these ideas for making this your best summer ever in Sonoma County.
Peri Olsson of Santa Rosa takes her dog Teddy on a walk at Taylor Mountain Regional Park and Open Space Preserve in Santa Rosa. (Alvin Jornada/The Press Democrat)
This article was originally published in January, 2020.
Grab your backpack, fill up the water jug and lace up those boots. It’s time to take a hike! And, if you’re so inclined, sip some wine: in Sonoma County, there are tasting rooms at the end of the trail. (Remember to call wineries in advance to make sure that they are open, to get hike dates and make reservations).
Preeti Mistry curates a team of BIPOC women chefs at J Vineyards & Winery. (Courtesy J Vineyards)
At face value, J Vineyards’ summer wine and food pairing experience, “Shifting the Lens,” will showcase three chefs of color (Jenny Dorsey, Preeti Mistry and Shenarri Freeman), pairing their culinary creations and favorite flavor profiles with J Vineyards wines.
But Mistry isn’t a face-value kind of person. An outspoken activist for food justice and inclusion, Mistry used their platform as a Top Chef Season 6 contestant and as a guest on Michelle Obama’s “Waffles + Mochi” Netflix series to spotlight the need for representation of people of color in the food world (Mistry uses the pronouns they/them).
As a new Sonoma County resident and curator of “Shifting the Lens,” Mistry is expanding Wine Country’s narrow vision of wine and food pairing — cheese, charcuterie, European cuisine — to include global ingredients and underrepresented voices.
“We wanted to do something that not only showcased different cuisines with the wine but went beyond that to the deeper meaning behind the pairings,” Mistry said.
Preeti Mistry curates a team of BIPOC women chefs at J Vineyards & Winery. (Courtesy J Vineyards)
The winery says the event will build on its “legacy of growing, evolving and challenging people’s notions on pairing wine with food,” according to the online description of the chefs’ curated tasting menus.
“At J, we believe that learning about how a meal is made, the story behind its ingredients and how the chef’s experience shaped the dish goes beyond culinary knowledge. It broadens our scope and takes us to a place of discovery and connection,” the winery website says. J Vineyards & Winery is owned by E. & J. Gallo.
During Dorsey’s, Mistry’s and Freeman’s monthlong residencies at J Vineyards, each will prepare a five-course tasting menu that will be featured at the winery’s Bubble Room and host a VIP dinner and discussion.
“It’s so rare for chefs like us, BIPOC (Black, Indigenous and people of color) women, to have the platform and stage, cooking the food of our own culture,” Mistry said of the Indian, Chinese and soul food cuisines featured in the series. “People think these might not pair well with wine, but that’s absolutely not true.”
Mistry, who identifies as a queer, first-generation Indian woman, plans to include green garbanzo beans with stone fruit, sprouted mung puri and hibiscus pani along with burnt masala quail with saffron rice and a dessert of saffron cardamom yogurt pudding. Dorsey’s and Freeman’s menus are still in the works.
Dorsey is the founder of Studio ATAO, a nonprofit that advocates for equitable standards in the hospitality industry. Freeman champions plant-based Southern soul food inspired by her family in North Carolina.
All three chefs focus on farm-to-table cuisine, using fresh and local ingredients, but Mistry said the moniker isn’t unique to European cuisine.
“Right now, I’m in a crunch for sourcing (these meals) at local farms. I’m running around to find someone growing parilla and shiso. It’s about dispelling the myth that the only farm-to-table food is European. Where do you think the rest of us get food?” Mistry said.
J Vineyards & Winery’s vine-covered Russian River Valley production facility. (Courtesy of J Vineyards & Winery)
While there were more than 10 chefs on the winery’s shortlist for the residency, Mistry said it came down to a handful of people who really inspired them.
“This is part of a larger vision,” Mistry said. The goal is to create mentorships and showcase people who can bring even more impact and change to the community.
Dorsey’s tasting menu will be at the Bubble Room July 7-10 and July 14-17, with a VIP dinner on July 9. Mistry’s tasting menu will be available Aug. 18-21 and Aug. 25-28, with a VIP dinner Aug. 20. Freeman’s tasting menu will be available Sept. 29 through Oct. 2 and Oct. 6-9, with a VIP dinner on Oct. 1. More details at jwine.com.
Outside of Big Bottom Market in Guerneville. (Courtesy Big Bottom Market)
Michael Volpatt, owner of Big Bottom Market, is perhaps best known for his biscuits, which were one of Oprah’s “Favorite Things” a few years back. But Volpatt, a fixture in this tiny Russian River community, has his hands in the mix in many ways beyond making biscuits.
Volpatt co-owns the Equality Vines tasting room across the street from the market, heads up a local PR firm and volunteers at a nearby pig sanctuary. Not to mention that at the beginning of the pandemic, he became the host of a self-produced cooking show, making livestreams of his homemade meals: “I didn’t know what I was going to do. I hadn’t found my pod yet. So I said, ‘I’m going to do what makes me happiest,’ which is to make my mother’s marinara sauce.”
After finishing a day’s work, Volpatt heads to what he calls his gym, nearby Armstrong Woods, where he hikes the redwood trails and does strengthening exercises. But it’s his connection to the people of Guerneville that seems to fuel his boundless energy and interests.
For a Russian River day trip that would make Volpatt proud, check out these favorite stops below in Guerneville and west county.
Big Bottom Market’s Lazy Day Chardonnay with lunch. For every bottle of wine it sells, the Guerneville restaurant donates $1 to a local nonprofit. (Karen Kizer/Sonoma Magazine)
Big Bottom Market
Volpatt’s market has terrific takeout, cookbooks and foodie gifts, and partners with winemakers to offer bottles that give back to local charities.16228 Main St., Guerneville, 707-604-7295, bigbottommarket.com
River’s End Restaurant & Inn
Specializing in spectacular sunsets since the 1920s, this restaurant overlooks the spot where the Russian River slips into the ocean. Try hyper-local Dungeness crab ravioli with wild mushrooms.11048 Highway 1, Jenner, 707-865-2484, ilovesunsets.com
The view from the River’s End Restaurant & Inn is a sweeping panorama of the Pacific at Jenner where the Russian River flows into the ocean. (Courtesy photo)
Christopher Queen Galleries
In nearby Duncans Mills, this two-story gallery features rotating exhibits of contemporary artists on the first floor, and, on the second floor, California landscapes from the 1800s and early 1900s.4 John Orr’s Gardens, Duncans Mills, 707-865-1318, christopherqueengalleries.com
West County Wines
Flambeaux Wines is run by a family from New Orleans that creates bottles to pair with Southern foods like gumbo and shrimp and grits. And Porter-Bass has been farming with biodynamic practices since the 1980s. Both wineries are open by appointment.Flambeaux Wine, 1333 Jack Pine Road, Healdsburg, 707-637-9019, flambeauxwine.com; Porter-Bass, 11750 Mays Canyon Road, Guerneville, 707-869-1475, porter-bass.com
Love Wins sparkling rosé wine, left, and Decision pinot noir released by Equality Vines. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)
Equality Vines
The Love Wins sparkling wine celebrates the landmark Supreme Court decision that legalized same-sex marriage.16215 Main St., Guerneville, 877-379-4637, equalityvines.com
When Pigs Fly Ranch
Some very fortunate pigs are living well at this sanctuary on the Russian River. Wesley, an 800-pounder, will roll over for belly rubs. Visits by appointment. whenpigsflyranch.org
Gail Coppinger, right, and Scott Woodson, owners of Elk Fence Distillery, make Fir Top Gin, The Briny Deep Whiskey and White Elk Vodka in the only distillery in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
When Scott Woodson approached his friend Gail Coppinger to gauge her interest in distilling, Coppinger needed some clarification.
“Distilled water? Perfume? I had no idea he was talking about whiskey,” recalled Coppinger, who was running an organic produce stand at the time.
The two had met years earlier while working as painting contractors. Coppinger, a house shingler by trade, had moved on from contract work when Woodson showed up at her produce stand to talk whiskey. After catching up, they discovered they both were yearning for a new adventure.
Gail Coppinger, right, and Scott Woodson, owners of Elk Fence Distillery, make Fir Top Gin, The Briny Deep Whiskey and White Elk Vodka in the only distillery in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
“I approached Gail with the idea of starting a distillery because I remembered how well we worked together,” said Woodson, who has been an avid home brewer since the 1990s. “I knew we would make a good team.”
Today, Coppinger and Woodson are the proud owners and distillers of Elk Fence Distillery, the first craft distillery in Santa Rosa. Located in an industrial building off Santa Rosa Avenue, the small-batch distillery produces an American single malt whiskey, a botanical gin and a barley-based vodka, all poured and sold in their recently opened tasting room.
(As for the name, it refers to the fence bordering a field where Woodson once grew barley. On the other side were elk, and he called the area “the elk fence.” The partners thought it a fitting name for their new venture.)
For Coppinger and Woodson, getting to this point was an exercise in patience and determination that brought a new crop of gray hairs. From ideation to first distillation, the process took about five years, which Coppinger compared to “going through a series of brick walls,” from complications with permits to the 2017 Tubbs Fire.
“You hit one brick wall, you figure out how to go through it and then you keep going,” she said. “Because at some point you’ve gone too far forward to go back.”
An old Steinway upright in the Elk Fence Distillery tasting room in Santa Rosa Tuesday, May 24, 2022. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Breaking new ground
To start distilling, Coppinger and Woodson needed to apply for a distilled spirits permit. But before that, they needed to secure a lease on a distillery location.
Unfortunately, with no distilling experience, they found few property owners were willing to give them a chance — especially considering the flammability risk of spirits production. A year and a half later, they were grateful to obtain a location in Santa Rosa that would eventually become the town’s first distillery ever.
Then came the divorce.
The day before Coppinger and Woodson were scheduled to submit their distiller’s permit application, their attorneys called to discuss an urgent matter: tied-house laws.
In simple terms, federal and state tied-house laws prohibit distillers, brewers and winemakers from pressuring bars, restaurants and retailers to buy their alcohol. The laws came into effect after Prohibition, when alcohol beverage producers would often bribe saloons and retailers to sell their products in exchange for low-interest loans, free draft systems and other perks.
At the time, Woodson’s wife, Cat Cowles, worked for Hog Island Oyster Co., a popular oyster bar in Tomales Bay that had two liquor licenses. According to tied-house laws, that was a conflict of interest.
“If we wanted to be approved for our distiller’s permit, I would need to get a divorce!” Woodson said, laughing. “So that night, I broke the news to Cat. Fortunately, she agreed.”
“One of the things I love about Scotty is that he’s very even-tempered,” Coppinger said. “Nothing really rattles him. In that way, we even each other out. That’s one of the reasons our partnership is so strong and solid.”
By the time Coppinger and Woodson were ready to begin building their distillery, it was 2017, the year of the Tubbs Fire.
“When we told the fire department we wanted to build a distillery, they were like, ‘What?’” Coppinger said. “They had no idea how to handle us because there was no historical framework for building a distillery in Santa Rosa. There are numerous distilleries in Sonoma County, but each town has its own rules. So that made things very complicated.”
It would take three years for Coppinger and Woodson to build the distillery, but they forged ahead with determination throughout the process. To support U.S. manufacturing, they bought high-quality American-made equipment for their facility, including two copper Trident stills from Maine, a roller mill from South Dakota, a wort chiller from Arkansas and a boiler from the small town of Wyoming, Illinois.
Under the gaze of the mounted head of an elk purchased on eBay, co-owner Gail Coppinger checks a tank in the production room at Elk Fence Distillery in Santa Rosa Tuesday, May 24, 2022. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
For the tasting room, the pair cleverly transformed a tired office space adjacent to the distillery into a cozy bar beaming with character. Every object here has a story to tell, from the old-growth redwood bar dating to the 1800s, to the upright antique Steinway piano rescued from a basement, to the dark and dreamy wall art obtained at flea markets throughout the state.
Now, after years of delay, the Elk Fence tasting room is finally open for tastings, tours and select artisan cocktails.
The spirits
Elk Fence Distillery produces three core spirits, including a whiskey, a gin and a vodka.
Briny Deep ($140 a bottle), an American single malt whiskey, is made with local barley sourced from Admiral Malts in Alameda and Grizzly Malts in Rohnert Park. Aged for two years in new American white oak from Minnesota, it’s delightfully drinkable for such a young expression. “If you put good stuff in the barrel, it doesn’t take long to age,” Coppinger said.
White Elk ($35 a bottle) is a barley-based vodka that could stand on its own with just ice and a twist of lemon. Distilled only twice, the spirit retains a subtle sweetness with a hint of malt.
Fir Top ($50 a bottle) is a botanical gin made of juniper, coriander, tangerine and grapefruit from San Francisco Herb Co. It’s fresh, citrusy and destined for a gin and tonic with Fever-Tree tonic.
On certain days, Woodson whips up one or more of his inventive cocktails, like the popular Elksicle, with Fir Top gin, fresh tangerine juice, lemon and apricot liqueur.
The Elk Fence Distillery produces, from left, White Elk Vodka, The Briny Deep Whiskey and Fir Top Gin in the only distillery in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Tastings include a complimentary tour, with additional bottles available for purchase. The spirits are also available at Bottle Barn, Willibee’s and in cocktails at Perch and Plow.
Looking forward, Coppinger and Woodson want Elk Fence Distillery to be a gathering spot, where people can listen to music or learn more about the art of distilling. They also hope to offer classes in distilling someday.
“People know how to make beer and wine, but distilling is often under a veil of secrecy. We want to share our knowledge with others,” Woodson said. “Some people call themselves a master distiller, and I just shake my head. You might know a lot, but you’ll never know everything. That’s why we’re always learning and experimenting.”
Tastings from $10, waived with purchase. 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Fridays and by appointment. 464 Kenwood Court, Suite E, Santa Rosa; 415-497-4338, elkfencedistillery.com
You can reach staff writer Sarah Doyle at 707-521-5478 or sarah.doyle@pressdemocrat.com.
