Sonoma’s Rural Flower Farmers Claim The Bounty Of Early Fall

By Abigail Peterson
At Front Porch Farm in Healdsburg. (Eileen Roche)

Farmer-florist Lennie Larkin says moving into agriculture as a second career was the answer to many questions in her life. “I’d never loved anything like I love flowers; I’d never been so fascinated,” she says. “The cultivation of flowers caused me to slow down and be in the moment more than any- thing I’d ever done. Talk about mindfulness.”

Larkin, who grows an acre of garden roses and other blooms at B-Side Farm in Petaluma, is just one of a group of farmer-florists changing the face of the local specialty cut-flower industry, an industry worth $4 million in 2020. Sonoma’s growers are leaders in advocating for the use of sustainably grown, local flowers—the so-called “farm-to-vase” movement.

Flower lovers, brides, and designers have buckets of options for high-quality blooms grown just a few miles away. “I don’t need a wholesale account at the flower market in San Francisco anymore,” explains Jennifer McClendon, a farmer-florist who creates elegant wedding arrangements at Sebastopol’s JenniFlora. “With the relationships I’ve made here locally, I can source everything I need.”

Lennie Larkin of B-Side Farm in Petaluma. (Eileen Roche)
Flowers from B-Side Farmstand in Sonoma. (Eileen Roche)
Flowers from B-Side Farm in Petaluma. (Eileen Roche)

Sonoma’s farmer-florists are expanding the range of blooms they grow, creating new avenues to support each other’s small businesses. And they are seeing real change in the inclusiveness of the industry as well. “I love the fact that people are so supportive of each other,” says Jude Crawford, who farms with her partner Dale Smith at Zannah Farms in Santa Rosa. “If I have a problem with cucumber beetles on my amaranth, I can reach out to other farmers to figure out what to do.”

Local growers value collaboration and community, explains Zoe Hitchner, who runs the flower program at Healdsburg’s Front Porch Farm, one of the largest farms in the county. She says there’s a feeling of abundance; that there is enough business to go around. “I can say to a client, ‘I can fill half of your order, and I recommend you go to these other growers, too.’”

Days on the farm are exhilarating and creatively fulfilling—but also a constant juggle as growers balance immediate needs with more long-term concerns. “You’re always having all these balls in the air: what you need to do today to get through the day, but also what has to happen to have flowers for sale three months from now,” says Larkin. “If you just put your head down and do the work right in front of you in the field, you’re going to screw up the next season of growing.”

The days start at dawn, as flowers do best when harvested while temperatures are still cool. Then it’s on to sorting and bundling blooms for market, arranging bouquets, prepping for weekend events, customer service, and business calls. Then there’s the constant weeding and field maintenance, much of it done on hands and knees. “Flowers are picky,” says Larkin. “A lot of them need to be corralled or netted or pinched or trained.”

And there’s the treachery of the season, too. Zoe Hitchner at Front Porch Farm has had to adapt her farming plan to broader concerns about drought and fire. It’s common at this time of year to be working and catch a smell of smoke in the air, she says, and during each of the last three years, they’ve been under evacuation warnings. Water—for farming, for local fish and wildlife, and for drinking—is an ever-present concern. The picturesque farm, located in a valley at a bend in the Russian River, draws its irrigation supply from the river, and in 2021, they had to stop irrigating entirely in mid-summer to help keep local water levels sustainable. Hitchner says most of the plants held on to allow them to continue to harvest and supply the market. “This year, we’ve made the choice to farm whatever is possible within the bounds of our year-round team,” she says.

Front Porch Farm in Healdsburg
Zoe Hitchner at Front Porch Farm in Healdsburg. (Eileen Roche)
At Front Porch Farm in Healdsburg. (Eileen Roche)

Hitchner and others are mindful of what the local cut-flower industry needs to stay sustain- able, both from an ecological perspective, and from the viewpoint of their own work-life balance. To expand the conversation, Lennie Larkin, shown below, who mentors new farmers and is an officer at the Association of Specialty Cut Flower Growers, is writing a book about the economics of running a cut-flower business, relaying how growers can find out their cost of production or how they can set prices for a fair return on the work hours spent. “It’s about profitability, and that can feel like a dirty word at times,” she explains. “There’s often this sense that farmers should just be in it only for the love of the land.”

And yet a deep love of the land does remain a driving force for these farmer/ designers, who live in tune with the seasons and cultivate their aesthetic sensibilities even as they make their way through chores. “September is an absolutely stunning time on the farm,” says Hitchner. “The weather is just starting to turn, and really interesting clouds build up in the sky and the light changes. Everything feels really dramatic.”

Larkin says she feels the pull of the blooms in the field from the moment she wakes up. “I’ll keep glancing toward the window, just wanting to get out there and walk the fields and see everything—even though I know every flower that’s there, even though I saw them all just yesterday.” Entering the garden in the calm, early morning stillness, when the dew is glistening on the petals and the fields are in their most natural state, is what she calls a perfect moment. “It never fails to lift me up, honestly,” says Larkin. “Something new is happening every day.”

Dale Smith and Jude Crawford of Zannah Farms in Santa Rosa cut and arrange fresh bouquets daily for their farmstand, and sell buckets of flowers for DIY arrangements. (Eileen Roche)
At Zannah Farms in Santa Rosa. (Eileen Roche)

A Sonoma Cutting Garden

Plant beautiful blooms of your own with these farm-tested, designer-approved favorites.

Anemones: Zoe Hitchner calls these “the heroes of spring” for their ability to provide a succession of flowers for up to five months from a single planting. She plants corms the first week of October and covers them in a low tunnel or cold frame. Hitchner recommends planting in moist soil but then waiting to water until shoots emerge—too much water leads to rot.

‘Buddah’s Hand’ Cosmos: Each mature plant boasts dozens of small, tangerine- colored blooms, and the plant will easily naturalize in a cutting garden. Thin seedlings to allow plenty of space, as each will grow to 5 feet tall and wide.

‘Chantilly’ Snapdragons: Lennie Larkin of B-Side Farm says these sweetly fragrant blooms make beautiful “spike flowers” in hand-tied bouquets. She sows them in early spring in pots and transplants into the garden as
young seedlings. When harvesting, cut low for continued blooms.

David Austin Roses: Larkin’s favorite varieties of these chubby, old-fashioned roses include ‘Lady of Shalott,’ ‘Carding Mill,’ and ‘Golden Celebration.’ She recommends planting in the sunniest spot you can find and mulching well. They need lots of water (she suggests using buckets of grey water from the shower) and frequent fertilizing. In Sonoma’s ideal growing climate, Larkin is able to coax up to three rounds of bloom in a single season.

At Zannah Farms in Santa Rosa. (Eileen Roche)
At Zannah Farms in Santa Rosa. (Eileen Roche)
At Front Porch Farm in Healdsburg. (Eileen Roche)

‘Fata Morgana’ Scabiosa: An easy annual that attracts bees and butterflies and has a unique color, somewhere between peach, yellow, and pink. You can sow seeds directly just about any time of year, according to Hitchner. She plants one set of seeds in fall to overwinter into spring, and then starts sowing again in April, planting monthly through the summer.

Mexican Tuberose: These bulbs, native to Mexico and the Southwest, love Sonoma’s hot summer days and bloom prolifically from July until November. Hitchner says they turn up their intoxicating scent at night, attracting the sphinx moth and other pollinators. At Front Porch Farm, they are grown as a perennial, and every four years, the bulbs are dug up, divided, and replanted.

Queen Series Zinnias: Larkin says these are not your grandma’s zinnias, with subtle gradients of color that bring an antique vibe to bouquets. She recommends sowing seeds directly in the garden anytime from April through July. They seem to thrive even when ignored and don’t need rich soil.

‘Sahara’ Rudbeckia: Heat tolerant and in demand from florists for their moody pink and peach coloring, reminiscent of milky coffee. Rudbeckia is technically a perennial, but Hitchner grows it as an annual, starting plants each April from seed in a greenhouse, then transplanting into the field.

And… extra greenery: “The tones, textures, and shapes will elevate home-grown bouquets to the next level,” says Larkin. Some of her favorite greens for Sonoma gardens include lemon basil, silver dollar eucalyptus, and raspberry greens, with or without the berries.

Grown in Sonoma

BEES N BLOOMS/ SIDEKICK FLOWERS
Farmer/florist Seth Gowans leases land at Bees N Blooms and sells his organic flowers alongside Bees N Blooms lavender. Farmstand at 3883 Petaluma Hill Rd., Santa Rosa. 707- 293-8293, beesnblooms.com

DRAGONFLY FLORAL
A longtime favorite, this local farm in the Dry Creek Valley offers local delivery and event design. 707-433- 3739, dragonflyfloral.com

FEATHER FLOWER FARM
Farmer/florist Sierra Bannister sells homegrown flowers at her own small farmstand (email for details) and at Bill’s Farm Basket in Sebastopol. Her Instagram feed (@featherflowerfarm) is stunning. featherflowerfarm.com

FLATBED FARM
A diverse farm and flower operation with a farmstand, farm products, and bouquets for sale from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Saturdays. Farmstand at 13450 Hwy. 12, Glen Ellen. flatbed-farm.com

At B-Side Farms
At B-Side Farm in Petaluma. (Eileen Roche)
At Front Porch Farm in Healdsburg. (Eileen Roche)
At Front Porch Farm in Healdsburg. (Eileen Roche)

FRONT PORCH FARM
A 110-acre farm by the Russian River with orchards, vegetables, and wine- grapes in addition to flowers. Flowers are sold at the Saturday farmers market in Healdsburg, to the FEED Sonoma produce hub, and wholesale to local designers. fpfarm.com

FULL BLOOM FLOWER FARM
Owner Hedda Brorstrom grew up in the area and runs a pretty farmstand along a country road, marked by a red mailbox. She also does events and offers weekly flower subscriptions in summer. Farmstand at 9516 Graton Rd., Sebastopol. 707-591-6968, fullbloomflower.com

THE HAPPY DAHLIA FARM
It’s dahlia time right now, and the growing fields are awash in color. A fun place for families to explore together. Farmstand at 2478 E. Washington St., Petaluma. 707-338- 9478, thehappydahliafarm.com

JENNIFLORA
Jennifer McClendon cultivates 1,500 heirloom roses on her 1.5 acre family farm in Sebastopol and designs stun- ning events. Call for bouquet pickup and local delivery. 707-495-9402, jenniflora.com

JOLEE BLOOMS & DESIGN
Owner Daniele Strawn has a diverse design background and runs a quarter-acre farm and a thriving event business in Occidental, with organic bouquets available for pickup or de- livery. 707-775-0101, joleeblooms.com

OAK HILL FARM
This landmark spot in Glen Ellen on over 700 rural acres has been farmed by members of the Teller/Bucklin family since the 1970s. Fresh flowers available at the Sonoma farmers mar- ket on Fridays and at the Red Barn Store farmstand from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Saturdays. 15101 Hwy. 12, Glen Ellen. 707-996-6643, oakhillfarm.net

POPPIES AND PETALS
At this you-pick farm, visitors can design and cut their own bouquet packed with organic, seasonal blooms. Bring your own vase. Open Tues., Thurs., Sat., and Sun. 500 Sanford Rd., Santa Rosa. 707-752- 7891, poppiesandpetalsfarm.com

STRONG ARM FARM
Heidi Herrmann focuses on beautiful tuberoses, primarily for the wholesale market. Herrmann was one of the founders of the North Bay Flower Collective, a local group that pro- motes the local flower movement and supports growers. strongarmfarm.com

SUNRAY FARM
A vegetable and flower farm in Sonoma focused on healthy soils and organic growing practices. They sell flowers at the Petaluma Eastside farmers market on Tuesdays, deliver weekly bouquets, and will sell large flower buckets for DIY arrangements. 707-210-9720, sunrayfarm.com

ZANNAH FARMS
Dale Smith and Jude Crawford cut and arrange fresh bouquets daily for their farmstand, and sell buckets of flowers for DIY arrangements. Farmstand at 5583 Occidental Rd., Santa Rosa. 707-247-5881, zannahfarms.com

Le Diner: A Bakery Is the Hottest French Restaurant in Healdsburg

By Heather Irwin
Le Diner at Troubadour in Healdsburg. (Emma K Creative)

The hottest new restaurant in Healdsburg is a sandwich shop.

Actually, it’s a bread bakery by morning that turns into a sandwich shop during the afternoon and does a final quick change into an intimate chef’s counter at night.

Chef Sean McGaughey is the guy in the baker’s apron at Troubadour Bread and Bistro’s Le Diner, a French-inspired restaurant that takes over the nibble-size bakery five nights a week.

It’s the third collaborative project McGaughey and his wife Melissa Yanc have founded in Healdsburg, the buzzy Quail & Condor bakery that opened in 2020.

For McGaughey, making sandwiches and pastries just wasn’t the same thing as working in the kitchens of Single Thread, where he rose from executive sous chef to head chef over five years. His background in classic French cuisine, plus the precision he practiced at Michelin-starred Single Thread, were still calling.

“I thought that putting the same effort of cooking into making sandwiches was going to fill my tank, but it just didn’t,” he said on the heels of his first week of dinner service at the newly reminted Troubadour Bread and Bistro.

Le Diner at Troubadour Bread and Bistro n Healdsburg. (Emma K Creative)
At Troubadour Bread and Bistro in Healdsburg. (Emma K. Morris)

The concept is simple: a five-course dinner for $125 per person, preordered through exploretock.com. On Tuesday through Saturday, McGaughey and his small team cook a dinner of seasonal, locally sourced dishes such as duck a l’orange with crisp salty skin, Wagyu steak tartare with a cured egg yolk, petite escargot served in a Limoges tea cup with creamy veloute and roasted garlic and a thick tomato slice with tart sauce vierge and caviar.

Much of the produce comes from the Single Thread farm in Alexander Valley. It’s stunning stuff, especially in a boulangerie with just 20 seats, all stools pulled up to counter seating. Much of the cooking is done in simmer baths and low-temperature ovens, to take advantage of every bit of space in the tiny kitchen.

“We don’t have a lot of refrigeration either, so it forces us to be creative and constantly change,” McGaughey said.

The restaurant is refreshingly single-minded in its vision of elevated French bistro cuisine. The menu isn’t Cal-Ital or Mediterranean-French or another fusion. It’s just French, with all the unpronounceable but delicious sauces that have been perfected over centuries.

“I’ve always liked cooking French food. It’s always been in my repertoire. These are the techniques you learn (in school). Even Single Thread is very much of the French tradition,” McGaughey said.

“I also love the mix of grand French cuisine, the copper pots stuff. But, on the flip side, I like bistro favorites and want to elevate those,” he said.

Sandwich from Troubadour in Healdsburg. (Emma K Creative)
Sandwich from Troubadour in Healdsburg. (Emma K. Morris)

The four best seats in the house are at the counter facing Healdsburg Avenue. There, you can watch people go by (and be watched, eating) in the evening hours. More private seats at the bakery counter are better for intimate dining, and groups of up to four can sit at a communal table. The vibe is a mix of irreverence (don’t miss the Andre the Giant homage in the bathroom) and old-school French, with antique mix-and-match Limoges plates and a clubby San Francisco cafe atmosphere.

McGaughey has teamed up with Single Thread alum Tiffany Spurgeon as the restaurant’s host. Spurgeon, McGaughey and his wife are all part of an ever-growing cohort of Single Thread alums creating new food businesses with the support of their former bosses.

“We weren’t really sure what this was going to be, but it’s turned into a secret date-night restaurant,” McGaughey said. “We’re untraditional but fun, and we’re not going to take up your whole evening.”

Troubadour Bread and Bistro dinner service runs Wednesday through Sunday by reservation. The shop is located at 381 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg. Visit troubadourhbg.com.

The Ultimate Guide to Halloween in Sonoma County, 2022

By Lonnie Hayes
Desiree Sizemore, right, screams as actor Emily Quintas, left, jumps towards her inside Uncle Chuckle’s 3D Mad House at Blind Scream Haunted House, in Rohnert Park, California on Wednesday, October 19, 2016. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)

From candy lands to haunted houses to masquerade balls, there’s something for everyone to enjoy this Halloween season in Sonoma County. Here are some spooky activities for kids, teens and adults throughout October.

Haunted happenings for kids

Oct. 15 — Pumpkin Splash: The Honeybee Pool in Rohnert Park lets you take advantage of Sonoma County’s warm fall weather with a pumpkin splash party. Kids can swim in the pool and dive for pumpkins, which they can decorate afterward. Register at the Rohnert Park Community Center front desk or call the center at 707-588-3456. $15 admission. 1170 Golf Course Drive, Rohnert Park, rpcity.org 

Oct. 22 — The Dance Center’s Not-So-Scary Halloween Party: Check out the haunted house, games, crafts and Thriller choreography at the Dance Center in Santa Rosa. From 4 to 6 p.m., children ages 3 to 5 are invited to the Halloween party, with one parent or guardian. From 6 to 8 p.m., children ages 6 and up can be dropped off to attend the event. $15 per child (proceeds benefit the Jazz Companies). Sign up in advance at the front desk of the Dance Center, or call 707-575-8277. 56 W. Sixth St. Santa Rosa

Oct. 28 — Downtown Santa Rosa Trick or Treat: Who says kids can only trick or treat on Halloween? Downtown Santa Rosa businesses will present a Fall Fun Fest from 5 to 8 p.m., with games, a Ferris wheel, zip line, live DJ and more. Children 12 and younger are invited to dress up for some trick-or-treating at local businesses and a costume contest at 6:15 p.m. in Old Courthouse Square. Adults can dress up, too, to compete in an adult costume contest at 7 p.m. Old Courthouse Square, downtownsantarosa.org

Oct. 30 — Spooky di Rosa: Tucked between Sonoma and Napa, the di Rosa Center for Contemporary Art will turn into Spooky di Rosa this Halloween, with trick-or-treating and a haunted museum from 1:30 to 3:30 p.m. Activities include a costume contest at 3 p.m., a spooky photo booth, face painting, courtyard games and music. “Gremlins” ages 17 and under are $5; “The Living” pay general admission (adults $20; seniors 65 and older and students $17). 5200 Sonoma Highway, Napa, 707-226-5991, dirosaart.org/halloween

Oct. 31 — Cotati Candy Land: The annual Cotati Candy Land trick-or-treat event returns to La Plaza Park with goodies from local businesses from 2 to 5 p.m. The free event takes place outdoors; no registration is required.

Frightening fun for families

Weekends in October — Blind Scream Haunted House: For those who enjoy the adrenaline rush of a good scare, Blind Scream is a great place to get your heart pumping. Now located just south of the Santa Rosa Plaza, the haunted house is open on select dates throughout October. This year’s theme is “House of Superstitions.” Those brave enough to enter will walk (or run) through a “dilapidated old dwelling deep in the dank, dark woods.” Here live three terrible sisters, “each one as evil as hell itself.” Tickets are $25-35 and can be purchased online (blindscream.com/haunted-house) or at the door. This activity is not recommended for small children or kids who are easily scared. 98 Santa Rosa Plaza, Santa Rosa, 707-953-3909, blindscream.com

Throughout October — Halloween Home Displays: The Press Democrat has created a map of the best Halloween home displays in the county, making it easy for you to get into the spooky mood any day of the week. Check out the map (pressdemocrat.com/article/news/map-halloween-decorated-homes-in-sonoma-county) to plan your route. Then walk or drive with family or friends to enjoy some creative decorations throughout the month.

Oct. 23 — Santa Rosa Symphony Spooktacular: The Santa Rosa Symphony will perform thrilling tunes and “ominous masterpieces” at the Green Music Center’s Weill Hall to get you and your family into the Halloween spirit. The Symphony Spooktacular, which begins at 3 p.m., will include film scores from “Harry Potter” and “Pirates of the Caribbean,” as well as works by Saint-Saëns and Mussorgsky. Costumes are encouraged. Tickets (tickets.srsymphony.org) are $20 for adults, $10 for children 12 and under. Weill Hall, 1801 E. Cotati Ave., Rohnert Park.

Oct. 29 — Pumpkin Festival and Costume Competition: Enjoy a festive morning with the family at the Healdsburg Farmers’ Market’s 38th annual Pumpkin Festival and Costume Competition. The event begins at 8:30 a.m. and features a variety of fun activities, including pumpkin carving, “pumpkin-car” races and, of course, costume contests (event attendees pick the winners). Registration for pumpkin-car races and costume contests is open 8:30 to 9:30 a.m. Healdsburg Farmers’ Market, Vine St., healdsburgfarmersmarket.org/pumpkin-festival-2022

Oct. 31 — Annual Halloween Open House: From 3 to 5:30 p.m., check out the Halloween celebration at the Guerneville Regional Library. The nonprofit organization River Friends of the Guerneville Library organizes the event and invites people of all ages to dress up and have fun. Guests can decorate pumpkins, compete for prizes, make scary buttons and more. They also receive a free book. This event is free, no registration is required. Guerneville Regional Library, 14107 Armstrong Woods Road, Guerneville, bit.ly/3VtA9RT.

For the grown-ups

Throughout October – Haunted Sonoma Plaza Ghost Tour: Hear dark tales of Sonoma’s history on spooky ghost tour at the Plaza. Local guides who love the paranormal will tell you all about the town’s hauntings on a half-mile walk. 8 to 10 p.m. Wednesdays and Fridays. $27 per person. Go to bit.ly/3g9OIKw for tickets.

Oct. 28 — Halloween Bash: From 10 p.m. to 1 a.m., Santa Rosa’s Epicenter will hold its second Halloween Bash, with three DJs, three dance floors and three full bars. Join hundreds of costumed partygoers for a night of bowling, dancing, arcade playing and even some ax throwing. The laser tag area will be turned into a haunted house, and there will be food and drink specials available. This event is for people 21 and older. Tickets are $20 and can be purchased online at bit.ly/3efGZtD. Epicenter, 3215 Coffey Lane, Santa Rosa.

Oct. 28-29 — Hallowine Run: Join runners and wine enthusiasts alike for the Hallowine Run, which will make its return to Wine Country after a three-year hiatus. The two-day event includes kid-friendly activities and an evening welcome reception on Oct. 28, and a half marathon (which participants can run as a two-person relay) and a 5K race on Oct. 29.

The Oct. 29 races begin at Orsi Family Vineyards in Healdsburg and take runners on scenic loops through the Dry Creek Valley. The half marathon begins at 7:30 a.m.; the 5K starts at 8:25 a.m.

There’s a post-race wine and music festival from 10 a.m. to 12:30 p.m., with live music, wine tasting, a costume contest and awards ceremony at 10:30 a.m. Profits benefit the Hall Steps Foundation, which supports women and children living in poverty in Ethiopia. Registration is open until Oct. 28 at hallowinerun.com/registration-info.

Oct. 29 — Halloween Masquerade Ball: Buena Vista Winery in Sonoma hosts its annual Halloween Masquerade on the last Saturday night of October. Celebrate “the Roaring ’20s, Great Gatsby-style” with live music, dancing, small bites and Buena Vista wines. General tickets are $125 ($100 for members). The event begins at 7 p.m. Buena Vista Winery, 18000 Old Winery Road, Sonoma, 800-926-1266, buenavistawinery.com

You can reach Press Democrat intern Lonnie Hayes at lonnie.hayes@pressdemocrat.com.

The Secret Sonoma Foodie Destination Only Locals Know About

By Heather Irwin
Flat Iron Steak Frites at Underwood Bar and Bistro in Graton. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

The tiny west county town of Graton is merely a blip on the radar (there’s not even a stoplight), but it is the essence of all that is weird, wonderful and deliciously delightful about the farther-flung regions of Sonoma County. Click through the above gallery for some of our favorite spots to grab a bite in and around Graton.

Passion Keeps Flowing for Sebastopol’s Spirit Works Distillery

By Sarah Doyle
Spirit Works Distillery owners Timo and Ashby Marshall are celebrating their 10-year anniversary making gins, whiskeys and vodka in Sebastopol’s Barlow September 30, 2022. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

A lot has changed since Timo and Ashby Marshall launched Spirit Works Distillery in Sebastopol’s Barlow a decade ago.

“For starters, we now have a staff,” said Ashby Marshall, co-founder and head distiller. “Sometimes (people) don’t believe we used to do everything ourselves. It still feels weird to have help.”

In 2012, Spirit Works was among the first three businesses to move into The Barlow, along with Woodfour Brewing and Kosta Browne winery. Back then, the property had yet to grow into the buzzing outdoor marketplace it is today, with wineries, breweries, restaurants, artisan shops and, of course, a distillery.

“When we signed our lease, the broader concept for The Barlow still remained on paper,” said Timo Marshall, co-founder and operations manager. “But they needed someone to believe in them, and we needed someone to believe in us. So it worked out well.”

Celebrating its 10th anniversary this month, Spirit Works Distillery has been a passion project for the husband-and-wife team since Day One. Among their award-winning spirits, you’ll find vodka, gin and whiskey produced with organic red winter wheat; their bestselling four-grain bourbon; and a delicious, juicy sloe gin made with fresh sloe berries.

To commemorate the anniversary, Spirit Works is releasing a limited-edition 8-year-old rye whiskey ($90), the oldest release for the brand.

“There were two barrels I’d had my eye on in the cellar for quite some time,” said Ashby Marshall, who created the limited-release rye. “One was producing beautiful fruity notes, while the other was very spicy, with coriander, cardamom and caraway. I felt like the flavors would meld beautifully together.”

The brand’s leading tenet is what they call “grain to glass,” reflecting the couple’s commitment to producing their spirits with organic whole grains.

“‘Grain to glass’ sounds like a nice marketing term, but it’s massively important to us,” Timo Marshall said. “Some craft distillers just buy alcohol, tweak it a bit, then bottle it. But we start production with high-quality raw materials and process everything on-site. We want to know where all our ingredients come from.”

So do their customers. In recent years, Timo Marshall said, many people have shifted from asking which ingredients go into their products to instead asking where the ingredients are sourced from. They’re more invested in learning about the brand’s intent, and they want to buy products that support the local economy, he said.

Spirit Works Distillery are celebrating their 10-year anniversary in SebastopolÕs Barlow with the release of an 8 year old rye whiskey September 30, 2022. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Spirit Works Distillery are celebrating their 10-year anniversary in Sebastopol’s Barlow with the release of an 8-year-old rye whiskey. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Change for distilleries

Among the most significant changes in the industry that the Marshalls have experienced since launching Spirit Works was the passage of the Craft Distiller’s Act in 2015.

Before the act passed, craft distilleries in California were not allowed to sell their spirits directly to consumers in a tasting room. They also couldn’t charge for tastings or tours, or accept tips.

“People would come in for a tasting and we wouldn’t charge them,” Timo Marshall said. “Then they would want to buy our products, and we would tell them to buy our spirits elsewhere. They were very confused.”

Now, customers can buy up to 2.25 liters of spirits per day directly from the tasting room. That lets the distillery experiment with small batches of new products and get consumer feedback before deciding whether to release new products into the marketplace.

“The Craft Distiller’s Act has had a huge impact on the creativity and imagination of the craft distillery industry as a whole,” Timo Marshall said. “Once it passed, distillers began making these really fascinating spirits in California. It has been an amazing change to our industry.”

Spirit Works has not been immune to the effects of the pandemic, with the tasting room being forced to close for months. Fortunately, the Marshalls were able to retain their entire staff and keep production flowing.

For California’s craft distillers, the unforeseen silver lining of COVID-19 has been the passage of Assembly Bill 920 in March 2022. Designed to “mitigate the negative effects of the COVID-19 pandemic on craft distillers and resulting loss of revenue,” the temporary bill authorized craft distillers to ship up to 2.25 liters of spirits directly to consumers — something that wasn’t allowed previously. Last month, Gov. Gavin Newsom signed a stopgap measure to extend the bill until Jan. 1, 2024.

“Being able to ship directly to consumers has been a massive change,” Timo Marshall said. “Before, customers would have to visit the tasting room to pick up their spirits club shipments, which limited our geographic reach. The bill has really helped us expand our business and hire more people, which is great for our community and the economy.”

A
A cocktail at Spirit Works Distillery in Sebastopol. (Loren Hansen)

Looking forward

While laws and legalities in the craft spirits industry may have changed over the last decade, Marshalls’ passion for producing quality grain-to-glass spirits remains strong.

Within the next few months, the distillery will release an exclusive Founder’s Reserve wheat whiskey, a hyper-local rye vodka, housemade citrus bitters and a unique sloe amaro.

They also are producing custom spirits for private clients, which is a significant and growing part of their business.

“The fact we’re still here after 10 years is huge to us,” Timo Marshall said. “We love seeing how Sonoma County has grown in its appreciation of craft spirits, and it’s incredible to think about all the people we’ve connected with over the years through the distillery. We’re so happy to be where we are in the industry.”

You can reach Staff Writer Sarah Doyle at 707-521-5478 or sarah.doyle@pressdemocrat.com.

5 Sonoma Hotels Named Among 20 Best in Northern California

By Sonoma Magazine Staff
Additional Sonoma County luxury establishments that were recommended by Forbes include Farmhouse Inn (pictured) and Farmhouse Inn Restaurant in Forestville and Hotel Les Mars in Healdsburg. (Farmhouse Inn)

Condé Nast Traveler magazine has announced its annual Top 20 Hotels in Northern California: Readers’ Choice Awards. This year, five Sonoma County properties made the list, which was topped by Auberge de Soleil in Rutherford, Napa Valley.

Healdsburg, which was named “Sonoma County’s most charming town” by Condé Nast Traveler in August, had two hotels on the list: Montage Healdsburg took the No. 2 spot; Hotel Healdsburg ranked No. 10.

“This accomplishment wouldn’t be possible without the support of our dedicated hotel teams and the loyal guests that visit our beautiful town,” said Tallia Hart, CEO of the Healdsburg Chamber of Commerce & Visitors Bureau. Click through the above gallery to see all the Sonoma County winners.

Condé Nast Traveler’s Readers’ Choice Awards, now in their 35th year, are the longest-running recognition of excellence in the travel industry. This year, more than 240,000 readers rated their top travel experiences around the world. Read more here.

A Dog-Friendly Getaway to the Sonoma Coast

By Dana Rebmann
People enjoy a sunny walk at Doran Beach in Bodega Bay on Thursday. (JOHN BURGESS / The Press Democrat)

It’s never been easier to travel with your dog, especially if you’re thinking about a getaway to the Sonoma Coast. Along with wide beaches and striking oceanfront hotels, a number of coastal wineries and restaurants welcome hounds and their humans. Click through the above gallery for some of our favorite dog-friendly destinations on the Sonoma Coast.

If you’re looking to head further north, these are some of our favorite Fido-friendly stops on the Mendocino coast.

Canevari’s Deli in Santa Rosa Gets a Face-Lift

By Heather Irwin
The Meatball Sub on a toasted ciabatta roll with provolone and asiago cheese, marinara and french fried onions from Canevari’s Delicatessen & Catering in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

For more than 100 years, the inimitable Canevari’s Deli and ravioli factory has been a delicious part of the fabric of Santa Rosa. Founded by Italian immigrants in the early 1900s, the family-run shop made hundreds of pounds of meat and cheese-filled pasta weekly. It remained in the Canevari family until 2012.

A decade ago, Lou Ciambrone (formerly of Sweet Lou’s in Cotati) took over the business and kept most of the menu the same — homemade ravioli, fresh cannoli and meaty sandwiches made fresh, hot and piled impossibly high. With a hearty handshake and booming voice, Lou is the embodiment of the warm goomba hospitality expected by longtime Canevari customers.

Now, a new generation is stepping in to expand the deli and continue its legacy. Lou’s son, Dominic Ciambrone, known internationally as the Shoe Surgeon, recently returned to Santa Rosa to inspire fresh ideas at the humble deli.

The well-known shoe designer makes bespoke kicks for celebrities and influencers at his Los Angeles loft (starting around $5,000 per pair). Though he’s embedded in the Los Angeles scene, Dominic grew up in Santa Rosa and worked at his parents’ restaurant as a kid.

The Sausage and Peppers Sandwich with a Spicy Deviled Egg from Canevari?s Delicatessen & Catering in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
The Sausage and Peppers Sandwich with a Spicy Deviled Egg from Canevari’s Delicatessen & Catering in Santa Rosa. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

“Hospitality is in my blood,” Dominic said while sitting inside the newly remodeled cafe in September. The interior has been refreshed with new counters and subway tiles along the back wall, but the historic black-and-white photos remain. “My dad has done an amazing job, but I want to give it new life and fresh energy. But the food (will) remain the same.”

The younger Ciambrone’s vision includes collaborations with big names including “Top Chef” Michael Voltaggio and celebrity chef Christian Petroni, who has appeared in “Guy’s Grocery Games” and “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives” on the Food Network.

Dominic sees the connection between Santa Rosa and Guy Fieri’s local TV production as a boon.

“Chefs come here all the time for Guy’s show,” he said. “We could do pop-ups and private dinners.” Production crews from Fieri’s shows are frequent visitors to the deli, he claims.

“I want to create opportunity. I’ve always looked up to Guy; he’s such an entrepreneur, and he comes from Sonoma County. It’s important for me to give back to the community that gave me my start,” Dominic said.

“I just want to blow this brand up and let the world know,” he said. He also hopes to ship the raviolis across the country and make Canevari’s a “worldwide” name.

Biting into a fresh cannoli filled with creamy ricotta, a shower of powdered sugar, a drizzle of honey and bits of torn basil, it’s easy to see how this kind of grandma-style Italian cuisine could be a draw.

Lou Ciambrone looked over at my gussied up cannoli and asked his son about the fancy additions he’s made to the simple dessert.

“He’s been in L.A. too long,” Lou said with a hearty laugh.

Canevari’s is at 695 Lewis Road in Santa Rosa. Call 707-545-6941 or visit canevarisdeli.com. The deli is open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Saturday; and closed Sunday and Monday.

Popular Pop-Up Burger Spot Gets Permanent Home in Sebastopol

By Heather Irwin

Click through the above gallery for a peek at some of  the delicious dishes from Lunchbox. 

We’ve been waiting ever so patiently for longtime pop-up burger and fry spot Lunchbox to open at the former East West Cafe in Sebastopol. So, so patiently.

The owners have announced that they’ve passed their inspections and are slated for an October opening. Even better news? They’ll be joining up with nearby Psychic Pie (the best Roman-style pizza ever) for hoagie offerings. A photo on their Instagram shows a tempting image of a sourdough meatball hoagie and Philly-inspired garlic-herb roast pork sandwich with broccoli rabe.

Stay tuned for details. Visit lunchboxsonomacounty.com.

Lunchbox burger
Burger from Lunchbox. (Jessica Fix Photo/Lunchbox)
Crispy fries smothered in American cheddar, onion butter, fancy sauce, peppers and green onions. (Courtesy of Lunch Box)
Crispy fries smothered in American cheddar, onion butter, fancy sauce, peppers and green onions. (Courtesy of Lunchbox)

Speaking of Philly-style sandos: Biteclub’s been on the hunt for the best Philly cheesesteak in Sonoma County.

The results have been mixed. Overly precious, California-ized cheesesteaks lack the greasy, cheap bread, Cheez-wiz, onion-y goodness this sandwich should always have. Cheap cheesesteaks taste like cheap meat and despair.

So far, the crowd favorite is Streetside Asian Grill (and I concur). The unassuming food truck focuses mostly on fresh Vietnamese and Asian-fusion dishes, but the Philly cheesesteak has become a bestseller. Cheesesteak fries are sold, too. Find the truck’s latest location on Instagram.

Late Chef’s Legacy Lives on at Hana Japanese Restaurant

By Heather Irwin
Ken’s Roll at Hana Japanese Restaurant in Rohnert Park September 21, 2022. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)

Each day Keita Tominaga opens the doors of Hana Japanese restaurant, he faces a challenging prospect — stepping into his late father’s shoes.

In May, the 31-year-old chef took up the reins of the venerated Japanese restaurant in Rohnert Park and PABU Izakaya in San Francisco, following the untimely death of his father, Kenichi “Ken” Tominaga, at age 61.

Ken Tominaga opened Hana in 1990 — long before nigiri and sushi rolls were a common sight in Wine Country — and PABU in 2014 with Chef Michal Mina (three additional locations in Boston are now closed). Most recently, the popular chef partnered with Dustin Valette to operate a sushi bar at Valette’s three-story Matheson restaurant in Healdsburg.

Ken’s greatest legacy, however, was his jubilant hospitality and kinship with the local food and wine community. Almost any night, you could find off-duty chefs seated at his sushi bar or sipping sake at a table and chatting with him.

“I was planning to take over the restaurant, but not this way,” said Keita Tominaga, looking around the empty Rohnert Park restaurant in late September as kitchen staff prepared for service later that evening. In the months since his father’s death, Tominaga says, many chefs have come to the restaurant to pay their respects and offer advice and support.

Though Keita always had planned to follow in his father’s footsteps, Ken’s unexpected death left a vacuum. Keita is scrambling to fill that gap with the help of his mother, Emiko, and brother, Kousuke, while also envisioning his future.

Sonoma meets Tokyo

Keita Tominaga grew up in Sonoma County and graduated from the Culinary Institute of America. He has cooked at the Farmhouse Inn, Diavola, Jackson Family Wines and Auberge du Soleil, which have given him a strong foundation in Western cuisine.

But six months working in Tokyo at the Michelin-starred Tenoshima last year brought him closer to Japanese cuisine. He learned about kaiseki, traditional multicourse meals of small seasonal dishes presented in a precise, ritualized manner. The experience allowed him to escape his father’s shadow.

Keita Tominaga’s Chef choice from bottom omakase nigiri, hon-maguro, ishigakidai, katsuo, iwana, hotate, and uni at Hanna Japanese Restaurant in Rohnert Park September 21, 2022. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Keita Tominaga’s Chef choice from bottom omakase nigiri, hon-maguro, ishigakidai, katsuo, iwana, hotate, and uni at Hana Japanese Restaurant in Rohnert Park. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Sukiyaki at Hanna Japanese Restaurant in Rohnert Park September 21, 2022. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Sukiyaki at Hana Japanese Restaurant in Rohnert Park September 21, 2022. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)

“I was a nobody there. Here, everyone compared me to my father,” Keita said. “I was able to develop a tougher skin there.”

He also delved into the culture and history of Japanese flavors, learning not just the techniques of cooking but the reasons behind those methods — why seasonality and history play a huge part in Japanese cooking.

“My boss (chef/owner Hayashi Ryohei) was very into that. He was into the ‘why,’ not just the ‘how,’ like ‘Why do we eat certain things at certain times of the year?’” he said.

“His take on food was to modernize the traditional in a respectful way,” Keita said.

Past and future

It’s much the same at Hana since the generational transition.

“I’m protecting what needs to be protected and changing what needs to be changed,” Keita said.

He’s cautiously watching for what works at the restaurant, and what doesn’t.

The menu hasn’t changed significantly, but Keita features more seasonal local produce now. On a recent visit, he offered a height-of-the-season tomato salad as an amuse-bouche. Fish on the menu continues to be sourced both locally and from Japan. He’s also revisiting Hana recipes that haven’t changed in decades.

The sushi bar, as ever, is the hot spot of the restaurant. Without the diversion of Ken’s larger-than-life presence, the dining room feels a bit worn, in need of fresh paint and modern tables. The more recently opened sake bar, however, is charming.

By early next year, Keita hopes to tackle some unfinished projects and make the menu entirely his, from start to finish. As he thinks about the future, his father still looms large in his mind.

“What do people feel when they walk in this door?” he said of his father’s constant smile, humor and appreciation for sharing Japanese cuisine. “Those things can’t change. That has to be protected.

“I’m still just learning how my father ran this place. Yes, we argued. We yelled. But those were good things,” Keita said.

“There are a hundred fires burning all the time, and I have to put them all out. But I can only do that one at a time. It feels like it’s been a very long and a very short year.”

Best Bets

Sushi & Sashimi, $8 – $30: Fresh fish is the reason you’re at Hana. Meticulous attention to detail and extensive knowledge make this one of the best places for raw fish in the North Bay. It isn’t cheap, but expect perfect cuts of tuna, mackerel, eel, sea urchin, salmon and seasonal specials with properly seasoned rice. This is the gold standard by which other fish should be measured.

Happy Spoon, $8: A delicious bite that combines a single oyster, uni, ikura and tobiko (roe), with a dot of ponzu-infused crème fraîche, this is a Hana classic.

Ken’s Roll, $22: The founding chef’s namesake roll is a flavorful blend of crispy prawn tempura, spicy tuna, avocado and shichimi pepper. If you’re more of a traditionalist, rolls filled with pickled daikon or plum, squash and even natto (fermented soybeans) are $7. On the other end of the spectrum, the Supreme Roll has toro (fatty tuna), uni and Osetra caviar ($40).

Maitake mushroom tempura at Hanna Japanese Restaurant in Rohnert Park September 21, 2022. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Maitake mushroom tempura at Hana Japanese Restaurant in Rohnert Park. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)

Sukiyaki, $38: Unlike its stylish cousins, ramen and shabu-shabu, sukiyaki isn’t exactly a cultural zeitgeist, but this showstopper should be. A skillet-size Japanese hot pot (or donabe) comes to the table trailing fragrant steam from onions, tofu, mushrooms, green onion and thin strips of rib-eye steak swimming in a sweet, salty, umami-packed broth. Served with rice and a raw egg for dipping into.

The restaurant also serves excellent Hokkaido Miso Ramen ($20) with a rich and salty broth, egg, corn and butter and Tempura Udon ($17) with fried prawns and udon noodles.

Miso Soup, $4 to $7: You’ll never go back to bland prepackaged miso after this. O-Age miso soup is made with red miso and studded with fried tofu and green onion. Asari miso soup is flavored with red miso and Manilla clams.

Sake: The restaurant has a large selection of Japanese sake, although the longtime sake sommelier Danny Pitassy no longer works at Hana. There’s an extensive wine list, too.

Hana Japanese is located at 101 Golf Course Drive, Rohnert Park, 707-586-0270, hanajapanese.com. Open 4:30 to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, 4 to 9 p.m. Friday and Saturday, closed Sunday and Monday. Last seating at 8:30 p.m.