Sonoma County has never had a love affair with clubby steakhouses — manly, dimly lit, leather-and-cigar-scented temples of aged beef and expensive whiskey. While expensive steaks are certainly on high-end local restaurant menus, local steakhouses are rarer than a properly cooked filet mignon.

This week, Healdsburg bucks the trend with Goodnight’s Prime Steak + Spirits, where a shareable 42-ounce Tomahawk steak will set you back $200, more than 80 brands of whiskey grace the bar menu and high-back tufted leather banquettes create private sanctuaries for diners.

Located on the Healdsburg Plaza, the restaurant is part of an ever-growing list of Foley Entertainment Group eateries backed by wine mogul and entrepreneur Bill Foley including (locally) Duke’s Spirited Cocktails, Chalkboard and the still-in-flux Burdock. The group also owns international restaurants, wineries and hotels, the Vegas Golden Nights hockey league and other entertainment and hospitality assets.

Chef David Lawrence, a familiar San Francisco culinary figure whose projects include Fillmore 1300 and Black Bark BBQ, will head up the culinary program. The steakhouse is a return to a familiar format for the Brit who cut his chops at London steakhouses with his Jamaican-born father.

The menu is inspired by cattle wrangler, Texas Ranger and inventor of the chuck wagon, Charles Goodnight. He was a prominent rancher and herder on the 19th-century Western frontier, the owners said.

“Goodnight played a pivotal role in herding untamed Texas Longhorn cattle in the vast expanse of the Texas panhandle. His rugged toughness, adventurous spirit and inventiveness are expressed throughout the restaurant’s culinary and beverage programs and what can only be defined as Texas-sized hospitality,” said a news release announcing the restaurant’s soft opening on Tuesday, Aug. 1.

The menu will lean heavily on steak (Wagyu, New York strip, rib-eye) but also includes seafood and well-crafted vegetarian options like housemade linguine with ricotta, eggplant, blistered cherry tomatoes and chile crisp oil. Much of the produce will come from Foley’s nearby Chalk Hill Estate Winery. Lobster thermidor — a throwback dish of lobster, cheese and cream made famous in the early 20th century by luxury hotels and restaurants — also appears on the menu.

The wine list is, not surprisingly, heavy with Foley-portfolio wines. Mixologist Devon Espinosa heads the lighthearted cocktail list.

Goodnight’s is at 113 Plaza St. in Healdsburg. Reservations are available online at goodnightsrestaurant.com. Open daily for dinner from 5 to 10 p.m.

If you did Saturday night right, says Kapu’s general manager and tiki cocktail expert, you won’t be hungry until 2 p.m. on Sunday.

At least that’s the idea behind the Petaluma bar and restaurant’s new Hangover Brunch. The Hawaiian-style brunch menu includes rib-sticking Kalua pork hash, a fried rice omelet, acai bowls, fried banana bread, Spam and egg musubi and poke bowls. Brunch starts at 2 p.m. on Sundays only and runs until the food is gone. You snooze, you lose. 132 Keller St., Petaluma; 707-559-3665 or on Instagram @kapu.bar.

More dining news

Jalisco’s closes: Readers are mourning the loss of a humble but much-loved neighborhood taqueria, Jalisco’s Mexican Food in Santa Rosa. Located at 1800 Mendocino Ave., it was a family-friendly burrito spot frequented by SRJC-neighborhood residents since the 1980s. The owners could not be reached, and the telephone number to the restaurant has been disconnected.

Acre Pizza has opened a new location, at 8175 Gravenstein Highway in Cotati, after nearly a year of construction.

This is the third store for owner Steve DeCosse, who founded Acre Coffee. DeCosse sold his coffee business in 2020 to Rob Daly, who changed the name to Avid Coffee in 2021.

DeCosse spent several years developing the pizza concept, introducing crispy Detroit-style pizza and hiring pizzaiolo Alastair Hannmann to launch the pizza menu at The Barlow in Sebastopol.

DeCosse said he was inspired by a seminar on pizza making with gluten guru Peter Reinhart (founder of Brother Juniper’s Bread). Decosse went down a rabbit hole of pizza styles before landing on the famous New-York-style thin crust and the trendy Detroit style, a thick-crust pizza baked in a cast-iron square pan with caramelized Wisconsin “brick cheese” (a semisoft cheese sold in a brick shape) as a key component. Acre’s second location, at 1080 Petaluma Blvd. N. in Petaluma, serves the same menu.

Opening in Cotati was a dream for DeCosse, who hopes to continue growing the pizza business.

“I believe this store will become a great destination for our community. It has a large outside seating area with colorful picnic tables, and comfy booths inside. It also features both an interesting selection of on-tap beer and wine,” he said of the new restaurant.

DeCosse said he hopes to add more items soon to the menu of Detroit, New York and Sicilian pizzas, including a focaccia sandwich the baking team is still perfecting. The Cotati location is open 3 – 8 p.m. Monday to Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Friday and Saturday and 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday. More details at acrepizza.com, 707-596-7802.