Sneak Peek: Nonni’s
Downtown Santa Rosa gets a new addition with Nonni’s, an Italian restaurant that opened this week. It was a quick turnaround for the 420 Mendocino Ave. location that recently housed Saigon Bistro. I got a thumbs up report for their soft launch from a local culinary prof: “In a word: fabuloso! Osso bucco falling off the bone; crisp non-greasy calamari; a fabulous dessert called pesta: a custard-stuffed cookie shaped like a peach with vanilla ice cream…!” Stay tuned for more details as BiteClub hits the tables. The restaurant will be open daily for dinner and M-Saturday for lunch, staring at 11am.
Sneak Peek: Casa Del Mar
Lots of buzz about the mega-restaurant that’s been under construction at Stony Point and Todd Roads in Santa Rosa. Now open, the revamped La Strada interior features a large, full-service bar, comfy dining room and private party space, though the outdoor patio is still under construction. The new menu is as sprawling as the space, featuring dozens of seafood specials, daily menudo and birria, taco and enchilada combos and the usual Mex-American burrito/chimichanga fare. Focus, according to the owners, is on seafood (hence the name). First impressions: Great ceviche tostadas, disappointing fish tacos that were neither grilled (as advertised) or edible. 3660 Stony Point Road, Santa Rosa, 541-6140.
Best Bread: Celebrate the yeast feast
It’s been said that there’s something magical in the air around San Francisco that makes for our special sourdough. But it’s not just sourdough. The natural yeasts that have wisely settled in the North Bay make for truly great artisan bread, something that Bread Father Peter Reinhart of Brother Juniper’s knew well. The legendary baker who launched his bread business in Sonoma County (and has since moved onto national fame), set the stage for the dense, chewy, hearth and brick-baked breads that continue to grace our tables.
Throughout the county (and beyond), all you need to do is follow your nose early in the morning to find a fresh-baked loaf of Italian ciabatta, hearty wheat, French baguettes, Scandinavian smorrebrod and of course, our native sourdough, warm and ready to eat.
Wild Flour Bread
Make the pilgrimage to this funky Freestone bakery that’s become a must-stop for the bicyclists and the beach-bound. Follow your nose to where weekenders congregate around a communal table with steaming plates of sticky buns and fruit-studded scones or chase children through the garden. Don’t leave without tucking away a dense, seeded boule and an extra fougasse stuffed with savory cheese and veggies straight from the brick oven. There’s a catch, however: The bakery is only open Friday through Monday, they don’t take credit cards and speed isn’t a virtue here, so sometimes there’s a wait. Which only heightens the pleasure of finally getting that first bite. 140 Bohemian Hwy, Freestone, (707) 874-2938.
Full Circle Baking
The secret to this Penngrove bakery’s amazing bread is the flour. Owner Keith Giusto uses organic grains milled to his specifications for his coveted loaves, along with a nearly 20-year-old Zinfandel-grape starter. Sourdough is the bakery’s trademark, though fans also go nuts for their sprouted wheat. 10151 Main, Penngrove, (707) 794-9445 and at Santa Rosa farm markets.
Continue reading “Best Bread: Celebrate the yeast feast”
Xcena’s Perogies: A Divine Affair
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What crab feeds are to Northern California, pierogi dinners are to Ohio. Instead of cracking Dungeness with a nice glass of chardonnay, we Buckeyes look forward to heapin’ helpings of cheese, sauerkraut and potato-stuffed dumplings sauteed in butter and onions. Washed down with a side of Dr. Pepper.
Mother Nature may provide the bounty of crab. But in good Eastern European families, it’s somebody’s mother making the pierogi (or perogies) – a tradition of rolled dough and savory stuffing that’s passed down from generation to generation.
In Healdsburg, it’s Mother Xcena who’s the force behind A Divine Affair’s handmade Ukranian style dumplings ($16) filled with either potatoes and cheese, slow roast pork, oxtail or sauerkraut. Daughter (and owner) Kahleen Nowak’s mans the stove, pan searing them with plenty of butter and onions — an upscale version of my Ohio favorite. Decorated with little ribbons of sour cream. Oh joy.
These rustic little pillows of deliciousness are a taste of home — no matter where you’re from.
Eastern European classics, however, are only part of the menu. Kahleen does a very beety borscht with local beets, wilted cabbage and
smoked ham hocks, but her rotating menu also includes game
hen, flank steak, duck breast and lunchtime panini and her own fresh-baked breads. Check out the menu
A Divine Affair is open for lunch (11:30am to 2:30pm) and dinner (5:30pm to 9pm) Wednesday through Saturday. Sunday brunch on their back patio starting at 11:30am and dinner until 5pm. 330 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707.433.1035.
NYT Restaurant Critic Frank Bruni stepping down
Frank Bruni, the New York Times’ restaurant critic has announced that he’ll be stepping down from his powerful position as Top Dining Dog. So far, no successor has been named, but obvious forklifters include the San Francisco Chronicle’s Michael Bauer — who’d probably be wise to jump ship at this point — along with Jonathan Gold of LA Weekly and Alan Richman of GQ Magazine.
It will be interesting to see what happens over the coming weeks as Bruni wraps up his tenure (he’s been in the position since 2004) and heads off to tout his new memoir.
As I’ve said countless times, the role of a restaurant critic is much diminished in the era of blogging, Twittering and Yelping. Waiting three months to review a restaurant is almost unheard of — because word is out on the street within minutes of the doors opening. Struggling newspapers can ill-afford the high cost of sending critics out to pricey restaurants even once, to say nothing of three or more times and are demanding not only reviews, but personality-driven blogs, videos and other content often considered “beneath” the exalted Restaurant Critic.
Ironically, both newspapers and the food community vocally lament the foibles of sites like Yelp (accused of pay-for-good-review tactics), bloggers-turned-restaurant-reviewers taking free meals in return for meals (nope, I’m not allowed to), and the lines that get crossed when food writers aren’t anonymous (I frankly think the whole thing is dumb because EVERYONE knows what food critics look like anyway).
It’s a brave new world of food journalism, if it can even be called that anymore. Will the Times adhere to its time-honored (yet somewhat out of touch) traditions, or find a new style of reviewer for its Dining pages?
Time will tell. What’s your take?
Guy’s in town
Guy Fieri stopped by KZST this morning while I was on the radio talking about goat with Brent and Debbie just to say hi. No, he wasn’t thrilled about the whole Fake Fieri thing. Yes, he looks just like he does on TV — sunglasses, bling and everything.
And yes, he’s actually a really nice guy.
He’ll be back in town shooting, he tells BiteClub, in June. I’m hoping to tag along for the ride.
Goat is good
Goats have a bad rap. The bulging eyes, their comic book penchant for tin cans and that whole cloven-hooved association with The Dark One. It’s a PR nightmare, really.
But spend any time with goat people — and by that I mean the rare breed of folks who’ve somehow been captivated by these curious, spirited little creatures — and you can start to understand why much of the rest of the world relies on goats for everything from milk to meat. They’re handy little critters to have around. BiteClub takes a nibble out of the goaty goodness from Sonoma County.
Peter Lowell’s: Best. Lasagna. Ever
Though Seamus is now gone, the recipe remains.
+++++
Lasagna is not supposed to weigh four pounds per serving. Nor should it do double duty as a door stop or require a steak knife to cut.
Mine inevitably is characterized by all three of those faults plus razor-sharp shards of burnt cheese and mushy pasta. Laugh it up, but I’ve had even worse versions at a number of restaurants that shall remain nameless. Not even Garfield would eat that stuff..
The reason for this, of course, is that great lasagna takes time to do properly. Lots and lots of time, from rolling out fresh sheets of pasta to house-made béchamel and patiently waiting for it to cook (and cool just enough to hold firm). So far, the only guy we’ve found ’round these parts who truly does it right is Peter Lowell’s Chef Seamus Guevara.
The pasta impresario crafts the lightest, airiest lasagna in Wine Countrydom. Seven-plus layers thick, it’s a tasty stratum of pasta, cream sauce, zesty tomato sauce and fluffy ricotta. The ingredients are in line with the restaurant’s fundamental organic, seasonal, produce-centric offerings (they offer some fish selections, but otherwise are vegetarian).
For this version, no meat. No gloppy blobs of uncooked mozzarella. Just a sprinkling of fresh Parmesan and torn basil on top.
“It’s amazing. The best lasagna I’ve had,” gushed a local chef who tipped me off. Until proven otherwise, I concur.
But don’t expect it on the menu every day. Typically the lasagna shows up at Seamus’ whim, but he’ll be making it Friday, Saturdays and Sundays just for you, BiteClubbers. At least for a while. Making it even more elusive and special.
(If you don’t want to be disappointed, call ahead to see if lasagna’s on the menu. Guevara always has a daily pasta special, but it’s not always lasagna.)
Peter Lowell’s, 7385 Healdsburg Ave., Sebastopol, 707.829.1077.
Hana Sushi | Rohnert Park
Winner of BiteClub’s Top Sushi Spot in 2009
Chef Ken Tominaga works with fresh fish flown in from Japan (along with closer-by catches) each day, and staff know how to handle it with artistry and care. This is the real deal, when it comes to Wine Country sushi — no wacky rolls or silly sauces. The key here: Ask questions and show your enthusiasm. Your interest will be returned in kind.
101 Golf Course Drive, Rohnert Park, 707.586.0270.
Fake Fieri dupes interviewer
This is hilarious. Apparently there’s someone impersonating our very own Foodnetwork Star, Guy Fieri during a KC Royals game. The broadcaster gets duped, but it’s clear to anyone watching this guy doesn’t have the Fieri Fire.
Guy quickly Twittered that the faux fan wasn’t in fact him. “Some cat is playin me in KC,” he told fans. That’s so NOT money, baby.
Eating out Guide to the Culinarily Timid
Forgive me Pollan for I have sinned. I’ve driven through, super-sized and made plenty of runs to the Border. My glass house has seen too many Carl’s Junior wrappers for me to cast any greasy napkins at anyone else. Fast food is convenient, cheap and easy. A lot can be said for consistency as well.
The heartbreaking truth, however, is that we live in a food mecca, surrounded by hundreds of fresher, Slower, healthier choices. Finding great food at reasonable prices isn’t that hard. Local restaurants are struggling to make ends meet while too many of us flock to Red Lobster or Olive Garden with our hard-earned dining-out dollars.
Ultimately the choice is yours to make. I’m not here to judge too harshly. But here’s the delicious truth: If you’re only eating at fast food chains because you don’t now where else to go, BiteClub’s got some tasty faves as well as local alternatives to some of the stuff you love so much. Read on…