Bistro 29 | Santa Rosa

Bistro 29 Santa Rosa

Bistro 29 Santa Rosa
On those days when goofy gastronomic acrobatics just aren’t in the cards, I want food that is soul-satisfyingly good. I go to restaurants where I can count on the kitchen for a meal that feeds every part of me. Bistro 29 is one of those places.
Former Lolo’s chef Brian Anderson is at the helm of this cozy Santa Rosa bistro that specializes in food from the Brittany region of France. So, while you’ll likely recognize much of the bistro-y French fare, there’s an earthy warmth to the cuisine that reflects this coastal Northwestern nob of France.

Bistro 29 Santa Rosa
French onion soup at Bistro 29

Buckwheat crepes are a signature dish but the kitchen has proven adept at bistro classics as well. This is classic beret-and-Gauloise fare: steak frites, steamed mussels, crepes and a crunchy, decadent Croque Madame that’s as comforting as a quilted blanket on a cold night. Think of it as the gold-standard of grilled cheese sandwiches — a thick slice of bread covered with ham, Gruyere, and a fried egg. Gild the lily with a side of crispy frites and mayonnaise (never ketchup!). The Monsieur is capped with Mornay sauce.
Don’t miss Brian’s Soupe des Johnnies, an onion cider soup with bits of crispy buckwheat crepes and melted Gruyere ($6 cup). It’s loaded with onions and the cider gives a sweet tang.
A great by-the glass wine list and weekly prix fixe specials make it a spot to return again and again.
bistro 29: 620 Fifth Street, Santa Rosa, 707 546-2929

Dogged: Hot dog adventures

hotdog.jpgUPDATED: Though it’s hardly a newsflash, the Bay Area just isn’t known for its hot dog culture. Outside of backyard barbecues, Brats, foot-longs and chili dogs were almost unheard of if you traveled north of Modesto or west of, well, Chicago. Maybe it’s the fact that sauerkraut and relish can be so darned hard to pair with wine.

But we’re evolving. Though Wine Country doesn’t even register among the top hot dog consuming spots (New York is, not surprisingly number one with LA coming in second) more and more doggeries are popping up around the county to the delight of foot-long aficionados, New York transplants and, oddly enough, local chefs who are among their most devoted fans. Go figure.

Top Dog: Taps
If for no other reason than the 30-plus beers on tap and their heart-stopping fried bacon dog (with mayo), this Petaluma newcomer gets a howl-out. Housed in the former Petaluma Hotel courtyard, the spot is still trying to figure out if its a sports bar (flat-screen tvs dominate the wall above the bar along with some good-natured rowdiness on Sunday) or a family restaurant (with plenty of stroller-setters as well). The menu of specialty dogs (BLT, Seattle dog with sauerkraut, cream cheese and mustard, Reuben and Buffalo), Italian sausage and steak sandwiches match the hoppy-heavy selection of craft brews. Fries are standard-fare, but bonus points of small-production root beers for non-drinkers. 205 Kentucky Street (beneath the historic Petaluma Hotel), Petaluma, 763-6700. Open daily.

Roy’s Chicago Doggery
Folks got a little concerned when Mike’s left the Petaluma stockyard. The french fry-free burger institution, however, begat one of the county’s best hot dog spots, serving up Chicago-style Vienna dogs with serious fixins, from kraut and mustard to the Windy City classic of peppers, onions, celery salt and relish, to chili dogs and, of course, the famous Home Wrecker, a 12-inch half-pounder loaded with toppings that dares you to even try. And fries. Glorious fries. 84 Corona Rd, Petaluma, 774-1574. Closed Sunday.
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100 Things to Eat

100.jpgA British foodie recently came up with 100 things every Omnivore should eat before dying. What to try is so subjective, but the list is a fun start. I’ve crossed out what I’ve eaten and left blank the one’s I’ve yet to try. I can tell you I’m no rushing out for roadkill anytime soon.

Many of the foods are available locally without much looking. Others are more of a challenge (like Black Pudding, which I actually had at Oliveto). What would be on your 100?
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Cafe Gratitude | Healdsburg

 

Cafe Gratitude Healdsburg
Salad at Cafe Gratitude in Healdburg

CLOSED
 
With the aid of dehydrators, pressers and endless creativity  the folks at vegan and raw-foods friendly Cafe Gratitude in Healdsburg approximate nachos, cheese, yogurt, pizza and burritos along with a menu of other health-inducing concoctions free of, well, just about anything bad for you.
The Healdsburg location is the latest offshoot of the vegan/raw/self-empowerment kitchen that has won fans in San Francisco, Berkeley and San Rafael.
So, deep breaths. You order by stating an affirmation that synchs with a menu item. I Am Passionate=marinara pizza. I Am Present=Caprese salad.  The server confirms your affirmation when delivering the dish: You are Passionate.You are Thankful. You are Honoring. It’s hard not to feel like You Are An Idiot.
 
Best bets for the uninitiated: I Am Abundant sampler plate ($15). This share-worthy plate includes “live” crackers, hummus, olive tapenade, a mini-bowl of soup, a live spring roll, and “nachos”. It’s a tasty way to dip your toe into raw foods. Expect lots of chewiness, rough textures and stuff stuck in your molars for the entire meal.
My willing food assistant  and I also gave the thumbs up to I Am Graceful ($12.50), a bowl of quinoa and fresh veggies with a spicy coconut Thai sauce. Also tasty are I Am Fruitful lassis with coconut yogurt ($8.50)
Cafe Gratitude desserts
Desserts shine at Cafe Gratitude

Skip the I Am Elated Special Enchilada of the Day ($15) unless you’re up for a full-on
assault of your taste buds. The combination of sprouted seeds, salsa and
cashew sour cream don’t quite work. It’s sharp, acidic and hard to get down. A vegan pal confirmed that this dish wasn’t a winner with her, either.
Desserts are where Gratitude shines. A single slice of key lime pie (I Am Awakening, $7.50) with a macadamia-pecan crust was rich, creamy and filling. Chocolate mint treats were a bit less impressive ($5) with odd, gritty green stuff in the middle that didn’t benefit from warming up in the car. Ack.
The lunch and dinner menu are the same and a meal can get into the stratosphere quickly: I spent a whopping $90 on lunch for two. Keep in mind that the preparation of raw
Cafe Gratitude Healdsburg interior
Cafe Gratitude interiorfoods is time-intensive and labor-intensive. You can also order much less than you think you might need -- the portions are filling.

Gratitude is in some ways the anti-Healdsburg with its communal tables and crunchy aesthetic. And in other ways (like the hefty pricetag) so very Healdsburg. Its eco-consciousness and healthy, body-friendly menu clearly have appeal for the spa-set.
When it comes to Gratitude’s feel good ethos, you’ll either warm up to it immediately, go in for the novelty once or twice or run screaming toward a slab of bacon. Whatever your choice, I Am Supportive.  Just don’t ask me to eat cashew sour cream again.
Cafe Gratitude, 206 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg. 707.723.4462.
 

Stop eating out? Forget it.

broke.jpgBiteClubClub is feeling the pinch, as are many restaurant owners around the North Bay. You may have noticed that my coverage of new restaurants has all but fallen off the map — opening has become almost impossible. Even for longtime restauranteurs, getting credit is a laughable endeavor. I spent most of last month lamenting to myself about how bad things seem to be.

But stop eating out? Please. Check out some of my recent favorite cheap eats and weigh in on what you won’t live without (no matter how bad things get.) I just gotta rant on this one…

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Haute Burgers

Posh burgers can be a bit like a beautiful woman — each delightful in their own way, but with certain charms only appreciated by the beholder. Thin or thick around the middle; dressed impeccably or bare; with pickles or without.
I’m adding two more to the list of fancy-pants patties: K&L Bistro’s Meyer Ranch burger and Stark Steakhouse’s Kobe beef burger (above).
Stark’s Steakhouse
It’s pretty hard to go wrong when steak is your bread and butter. The
lunchtime-only Kobe beef burger is ground fresh daily and will run you
$13 right off the bat. Kobe, in case you’ve been sleeping since the
late 1990s, is a specially raised breed of cattle (Wagyu) known for its
tenderness. I can’t tell you if this American version is actually
massaged daily and fed beer
(doubtful) like its Japanese cousins, but
it definitely has a rich, meaty flavor that will make you swear off
70/30 forever.
Stark’s “Burgers Your Way” is a field day for the adventurous eater. On
top of the beef (though some would call it sacrilege, I won’t) you can
add an array of toppers from smoked cheddar ($1), bacon ($1.50) and
caramelized onions ($1) to sauteed foie gras ($12), a truffled fried
egg ($1.50, so French!), exotic mushrooms ($2) or black truffle aoili
($1).  If you’re feeling unsure of your combo, just try your burger
their way: with smoked bacon, salsa verde and Cambezola; truffled
aoili, fontina and caramelized onions or a lamb burger with Moroccan
BBQ sauce, feta and cucumber raita.
Fries come with the burgers, in addition to a toasted potato bun and
homemade pickles (a necessity!). Extra credit: I like Chef Mark’s yam
fries dusted with chili powder better than the plain old skinny fries.
Building your own burger is an eater’s dream. A definitely 2-napkin
experience. Minus: All those add-ons can get spendy and at a certain
point just detract from the burger itself. So use restraint. Stark’s Steakhouse, 521 Adams, Santa Rosa, 546-5100.
K&L Bistro
It’s been far too long since BiteClub hunkered down at this Sebastopol
institution, but the charming vibe and neighborhood clientele never
fail to delight. Though it feels like a bit of a cop-out to order a
burger when PEI mussels and french onion soup are on the menu
, I’ve
heard from many that their burger is the tops.
It’s a serious patty (about 10oz.) delivered with few frills. A nice,
toasty sesame bun, lettuce, tomato, onion and cornichons. Your choice
of seeded mustard or plain. Grueyere or blue cheese is $1 extra, and
after four days of gooey, cheesy burgers the fact that the waiter
forgot to add it was actually a bit of a relief. Probably the least
messy burger of the bunch,
but also pricey at $13.50 ($14.50 with
cheese). What really seals the deal, however, are the “Awesome” fries
that are the crunchiest, crispiest I’ve had lately.
Leave a little room for dessert if you can. Specials change up
regularly, but a fall black fig tarte tatin was worth every calorie
I’ll be trying to burn off over the next six months
. K&L Bistro, 119 S. Main, Sebastopol, 707.823.6614.

Haute hamburgers: A little bit PBR, a little bit Grey Goose

Luxe hamburgers are my official food of The Economic Downturn. Straddling the increasingly disparate worlds of white tablecloths versus paper plates, they’re comfort food with class. A little bit PBR, a little bit Grey Goose.
Gobbling upscale hamburgers made with pedigreed beef, drizzled with aoili, tarted up with house made pickles and truffled fries feels like a ridiculous indulgence at a bargain-basement price. Consider them your entree into some of the area’s best restaurants on a lunchtime budget.
Not that a good burger won’t run you upwards of $10-$15 — an eye-popping amount for the Mickey D’s set. A cost-per-bite steal for Michelin-rated restaurants.
What’s worth the price? BiteClub navigates the grills to get the lowdown in a continuing investigation. Keep in mind that many of these burgers are only available during lunch.
Mike’s at the Crossroads KRUSH burger
It’s hardly haute, sitting on ripped vinyl and sipping out of a “Stolen from Mike’s” tumbler, but the KRUSH burger
brings a touch of class — and Zinfandel glaze — to this
hole-in-the-wall joint. Extra credit: Fries on Friday, really flavorful
meat, sauteed mushrooms, onions and garlic. Minus: Buns can’t withstand
all the deliciousness. You’ll do better to lose the top bun and eat it
with a fork. $9.25
Mike’s at the Crossroads: 7665 Old Redwood Hwy., Cotati, (707) 665-9999

Handcar Regatta

regattagirl.jpg

If you missed the first annual Handcar Regatta, I’m sorry to say that you missed one of Santa Rosa’s coolest events…well…ever. Though the concept was a little hard to grasp for the uninitiated, if you’ve ever been to Burning Man you’ll get it. Steam punkers, railway antiquity, costumes, stilt walkers, fantastic inventions, music, food and general merriment.

Check out the photo gallery

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