Are you Grateful? Are you Charistmatic, Sassy, Golden or Abundant? Prepare to be all of them…and much moremore when SF’s Cafe Gratitude opens in Healdsburg in mid-September.
Are we ready for all this raw, vegan, healthful positivity? The restaurant has been a whirlwind success elsewhere in the Bay Area with its combination of rejuvenating foods, lifestyle affirmations and social conscience. Want a side of spicy olive tapenade, you’ll need to order, “I am Extra Opulent”. Pesto Pizza made with hemp seeds goes by the moniker “I am Sensational”.
Aside from their jazzy names, all items on the menu are “live” foods — meaning nothing is actually cooked (but can be warmed slightly). That means lots of salads, smoothies and shakes, but Gratitude also has a plan for soups (Pho Miso, carrot avocado, etc), pizza, lasagna and grain bowls. No meat, no animal proteins, no heat, no gluten, all the rage.
Prepare to feel “abundant” with you wallet, however. Appetizers run upwards of $8.50, salads $12-$15 and entrees around $15. Feel-good fare doesn’t come cheap.
Cafe Gratitude, 206 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg. Expected to open in mid-September 2008.
Tosaki Sushi
It used to be that you could pretty much throw a slab of raw fish at me and I’d clap my hands in joy — kind of like a sea lion.
I’m over it. Truth is that like taquerias, there are far too many Japanese-style eateries churning out mediocre imitations of the real deal in hopes that we won’t notice. I recently visited a local sushi spot that served me a still-frozen slice of tuna and had the gall to charge $5 for that nasty surprise. I’ve been served rancid mackerel and octopus so tough I nearly broke a tooth. I refuse to wade through a swarm of flies at the door of a certain sushi spot for warm crab salad rolls. I recently tried some really outlandish sushi rolls at a Korean BBQ joint. Bad plan.
Thing
is, unlike a bad $3 taco, you can’t help but feel like a sucker when
dropping $30 or more for gnarly sushi. I’m willing to pay the price for
a sure thing at places like Ume, Go Fish and Hana where I’ve had slices
of fish so buttery and rich that they brought tears to my eyes. I’m not
willing to pay it when I leave a restaurant feeling like I’ve got a
50/50 chance at serious intestinal distress.
Call it the Americanization of Sushi. Raw
fish has gone from exotic ethnic food to mainstream fare — popping up
everywhere from gas stations (seriously), supermarkets and convenience
stores to the haute-est of old school restaurants. Yay for
accessiblity. Yikes for execution.
The art of making sushi —
which refers to the vinegared rice, rather than the fish itself — is
just that. An art. True sushi chefs train often train for years, even a
lifetime to master the perfect rice, form the perfect Nigiri, learn the
exacting cuts of fish. Devotees return to the restaurant again and
again, learning from the master and putting themselves in his hands
(called omakase or “it’s up to you”).
I won’t pretend to know
much more about the mastery of sushi outside of what I’ve learned over
15 years of loving sushi and a friendly Wikipedia assist, but I can say
that the increasing preponderance of American-style sushi rolls (mango!
wasabi mayonnaise! lots of fried stuff inside!) sends me (and most true
sushi chefs) into convulsions. California rolls are one thing. Stuffing
a piece of nori with as much sweet, creamy, fried stuff as it will hold
and then squirting sauce all over it is quite another.
I love
fried goodness as much as the next guy, but it seems to me that the
point of sushi is to actually taste the freshness of the fish. One has
to wonder what exactly is getting covered up in all the goopy gloppy
stuff. Every time I get talked into one of these $14 rolls I end up
with a mouthful of mayonnaise and a stomach full of regret. Maybe I’m
just being grouchy. It wouldn’t be the first time. But sheesh, they’re
everywhere!
All of this has everything and nothing at all to do with Sebastopol’s newest entrant into the Japanese restaurant game, Tosaki Sushi. I will say right off that I had an absolutely fine bento box experience there — nicely done tempura,
miso, rice and four small pieces of sashimi. I enjoyed a softshell
crab. The restaurant is very clean. The service is a bit slow but very
friendly.The overall experience was quite decent. Thing is, I simply couldn’t bring myself to enjoy what seems to be a core focus of the restaurant — creative rolls. Especially when the sushi station was empty most of my visit.
Regardless,
here’s the lowdown on Tosaki: There are nearly 30 rolls to choose from
varying from straightforward to outlandish, all with photos of
extravagantly done plating. Very pretty stuff. Heaven if you love wacky
rolls. The California Sun Roll has fried crab meat, avocado, unagi and passion sauce (?); The Spicy Girl Roll ($12.95) includes spicy tuna and crab topped with seared tuna. There’s the usual Rainbow roll, Dragon roll and Caterpillar roll. You can get really crazy and go for the curious Sagano roll (“Special”
fish topped with hamachi and banana fried prawns, $14.95) or the Mojo
roll with shrimp tempura, cucumber, salmon and mango ($14.95).
The list goes on an on. The large lunch and dinner menu also includes more
traditional sashimi and nigiri as well as “Japanese hand balls” or temarizushi which are hand-formed balls of fish and rice. Chirashi fans can get their sashimi over rice and there’s plenty of udon, teriyaki, yakitori and tempura as well. Plenty to love even if you’re not a roll fan.
But for me, the glitz and glare of super-Americanized rolls just outshines the beauty and simplicity of well-executed Japanese-style fare. I mean what’s next? Sushi rolls with French fries? Heh.
What’s your take? Do you love outlandish sushi rolls or hate ’em? Is Tosaki the next sushi sensation? Am I way off base? Tell me.
Battle of the Chefs
After two weekends of judging Iron Chef-style smackdowns — first at the Sonoma Wine Country Weekend and most recently at Kendall Jackson’s Heirloom Tomato Festival — I’m stuffed, exhausted, dehydrated and thoroughly impressed. From the haze that is my addled brain, some juicy tidbits I wanted to share with BiteClubbers.
– The big winner during Saturday’s KJ event was the winery’s own chef, Justin Wangler. Consider the fact that Wangler was competing against some of the biggest names in California cuisine — three of Food & Wine’s Top New Chefs, including previous winner Sean O’Brien (formerly of Myth, but opening a new SF restaurant called Zinnia), E. Michael Reidt (another former winner of LA) and Suzanne Tracht of LA’s Jar.
I’ll have to admit that Pop Rocks and ceviche from Reidt nearly won it for me, but Wangler’s incredible use of summer ingredients put him over the top. Well, that and the Coors & tomato juice coolers he sent to all the judges. Nice touch. If Wangler ever decides to open a restaurant, look out.
– If you’ve never had tomato creme brulee, I’m truly sad for you. On Saturday dozens of local chefs served up tomato creations for the annual Heirloom festival. John Ash restaurant’s creamy, savory brulee was the runaway crowd favorite, served by Chef Thomas Schmidt (though we hear it was a longtime recipe of former JA chef, Jeffrey Madura). Other fascinating ‘mater dishes included tomato cotton candy (Kendall Jackson) and tomato macaroons (better than they sound).
– Seen on the scene: Restaurant magnate Pat Kuleto, most recently of Nick’s Cove and John Ash (a fellow judge and recent winner of the IACP’s 2008 Cooking Instructor of the Year).
– Saturday’s event was a serious steamer, so imagine my shock at seeing none other than Chef Douglas Keane, the multi-starred Cyrus chef manning a fryer most of the day. The restaurant was serving up fried green tomatoes and Keane sweated it out over hot grease for hours without complaint. And even an occasional smile.
– Keane wasn’t the only chef manning his station, Zin’s Jeff Mall was serving up “not your grandmother’s tomato aspic” with his wife, Susan Dunphy Mall. Regina Silvers manned Syrah’s station while hubbie Josh MC’d the chef competition with local celeb Marcy Smothers (of the Food Guy & Marcy radio show on KZST Sundays at 6pm).
– Speaking of Food Guy (who is local celeb Guy Fieri), Smothers told me that fame hasn’t changed her co-host a bit and that he’s every bit the same cool guy he was when they started the show. Such a love fest.
– Restaurant Eloise fans will be excited to hear that the Sebastopol restaurant will be open for lunch starting this week. Chef Ginevra Iverson, who was serving up tomatoes on Saturday as well, says they’ll be doing a fixed-price menu to keep things simple. I also talked to the folks at Bistro 29 in Santa Rosa and they’re hoping to start doing lunch in the near future. Let’s keep our fingers crossed.
– Looking way back to Labor Day weekend, if you haven’t already heard, it was last minute entry Thomas Schmidt, the new chef at John Ash, who reigned supreme. I can say that all of us at the judges table were blown away by his precise European preparations. I saw him again this weekend at the tomato festival and he let me know that he’s been working hard on the new menu and has been in the kitchens there for about a month or so. Kudos to the other chefs who all worked tirelessly and impressed greatly — Janine Falvo, Carlo Cavallo and Jeff Mall.
Slow Food Nation Photos
I’m stuck between a food coma and a philosophical mind meld after spending part of the weekend at Slow Food Nation ’08 in San Francisco. Not surprisingly lots of locals were represented at the events including (and this is hardly comprehensive) Cowgirl Creamery, Ecco Caffe, Medlock Ames, many Mendocino Wineries, Nana Mae Organics, Valley End Farms and on and on.
I’m drinking from the well, Slow Foodies, so stay tuned for more. But before I head out for a sparkling wine-filled day in Wine Country, check out some of my favorite photos from the weekend, both from a stroll through the Victory Gardens near City Hall (with an incredible Slow Foods market) and from the Taste Pavillions — a tasting experience like no other. Sante!
Chef Smackdown Videos
Four chefs, one winner. Who will reign supreme at this weekend’s Steel Chef competition? Check out the trash-talkin’ smackdown videos where Zin’s Jeff Mall, Sonoma Meritage’s Carlo Cavallo, Carneros Bistro’s Janine Falvo and new kid on the block Thomas Schmidt get serious about their craft.
Let’s just say there’s some serious produce-abuse involved. And meat hammers. And really big knives. Awwww yeah. Can’t see the video? Click here.
News and gossip
Best place for beer!
Imbibe magazine has named The Black Rose Irish Pub in Santa Rosa one of its “Best Irish Pubs” in America. That’s a huge honor for the neighborhood watering hole owned by Will Roll. Cheers to one of our favorite spots for pub grub and pints. Black Rose Irish Pub, 20074 Armory Dr., Santa Rosa, 707.546.7673.
Sonoma Wine Country WeekendThis is definitely an event not to miss. Yours truly will be schlepping through every tasting she can (in addition to being a judge at the Steel Chef competition) on Saturday. If you’re there, search me out and I’ll take your picture for a BiteClubber photo album to be posted next week. Check out all the details on WineTravel.com! See you there!
New Sushi
Paris1880 writes in to let BiteClubbers know about a new sushi restaurant that’s opened in Sebastopol called Tosaki Sushi (the restaurant renaissance continues!). It’s the third sushi spot for the town (there’s also Sushi Tozai and Sushi Hana), so clearly there’s some stiff competition. Only about two weeks old, it’s located in the Sebastopol Shopping Center. Other early birds report that the menu has some interesting items including a sashimi salad and nice desserts. Stay tuned for more details. Tosaki Sushi, 799 Gravenstein Ave., Sebastopol, 707.829.0892.
Chef change
Also in Sebastopol, a chef change-up for Peter Lowell’s. Steven Peyer has departed. Taking his place is Seamus Guevara whose local resume includes stints with Tracey Shepos at of the Stark’s Group and at Santi in Geyserville. Owner Lowell Sheldon also tells me that a new hot yoga studio is going in next door — a good match for the casual, farm-to-table vibe of the nearly one-year-old restaurant. 7385 Healdsburg Ave., Sebastopol, 707.829.1077.
Late-breaking
Two other re-opened spots to check out. First off, Katie M. tells BiteClubbers that Triple S on Petrified Forest Road has recently reopened with a southern-style menu. This under-the-radar spot in Calistoga recently revamped its hungry-man style steak and potatoes menu which was a favorite of locals. 4600 Mountain Home Ranch Road, Calistoga, 707.942.6730. Also, we’ve gotten word that the French Garden Restaurant has completed its revamp and is open for biz with their new chef, Didier Gerbi. The addition of a bistro menu (all items $10, including skirt steak and fries, duck confit and a mushroom burger) is a great way to check out how the kitchen’s doing for a great price. French Garden, 8050 Bodega Ave., Sebastopl, 707.824.2030.
Humble Pie
Food made with hate can leave a nasty taste in your mouth. Especially eggs, according to Joshua Norwitt of the recently opened Humble Pie in Penngrove.
It’s a sort of mantra that he and fiance Miriam Lee Donaldson (the chef) have repeated to themselves for the six weeks or so since opening the homestyle eatery attached to the Black Cat Bar. Food made with love just goes down a whole lot better than food that isn’t. He says the couple came up with the idea for Humble Pie while sitting in a diner in Southern California. “You could just tell the food there was made with hate. The chef was back there sweating and cursing,” he told BiteClub. When their eggs arrived, the couple suddenly lost their appetite. “You could just taste the hate,” Josh said.
After working in restaurants up and down the coast (Josh is a Petaluma native and worked at Della Fattoria), they decided to take over the tiny kitchen at Penngrove’s famously eccentric bar when its chili-making owner recently retired. Armed with a handful of family recipes and some serious sibling togetherness (his sister Brook McCann and her chef husband Dan are also helping out), they’re serving an opening menu of locally sourced comfort food with an emphasis on pie–from tater tot to banana cream.
Everything is made from scratch, from the ketchup and hand-formed tots to the wontons. It’s a labor of love that may end up too big a challenge for the small staff in the long-term, but endearing nonetheless. The tot pie is a motherhood classic, done with shredded taters and cheese. Despite needing a bit more seasoning, it brings a huge smile of childhood familiarity. Fry Babies ($6) are homemade wontons stuffed with veggie cream cheese sitting in a pool of smackingly good honey ginger sauce. They need a goosing in the crispy department, but have solid potential. Also for starters, Blue Balls (local beef and pork stuffed with Point Reyes Blue cheese ($7) and prosciutto wrapped melon.
BiteClub fell in love with The Fungus Among Us ($12) — two buttery baked polenta cakes slathered with shitake ragu and a side of refreshing sesame draped greens. It’s dead-on delish. We caught a whiff of the potato-topped Shepard’s Pie ($12), but McNibs was feeling carnivorous and dove into a Steak Sandie ($12) piled with rare tri-tip, horseradish cream and red onions. Also on the menu, the ZucCanoe — a zucchini stuffed with cheese, crumbs and herbs ($9) and Lasagne pie ($10).
Dessert is, not surprisingly, pie. Homemade banana cream was the dessert of the night, though we caught a fleeting glimpse of peach. Early birds get the pie, here. The wine list is compact, but the kitchen has come up with some unique fruity beverages made with a mix of wine, strawberries and champagne.
Sitting in the tiny candlelit restaurant feels a lot like sitting in someone’s dining room. You can hear every joke in the kitchen. An old record player belts out scratchy vinyl, the plates and tables are adorably mismatched and every so often the chef steals a zucchini or two from the centerpieces for her creations. You can’t help but love the folksy vibe.
The menu is set to change up frequently depending on the chef’s whims and what’s in the garden. Like mom’s kitchen, not every dish is perfect, but all are made with a reassuring amount of butter and love. You’ll be hard-pressed to leave Humble Pie’s table hungry or unsatisfied.
Humble Pie, 10045 Main St., Penngrove, 707.664.8779. Open Wed. through Sunday 5pm to late (12ish). Friday and Saturday, 5pm to 2am.
If you go: Unlike mom’s kitchen, the restaurant is open late–until 2am on Friday and Saturday. You can get the full menu at the Cat’s bar (including tater tots if you ask nice), so you don’t have to miss a second of whatever country-punk, banjo-playing, wig or lingerie show that happens to be happening. (Which I say with nothing but love, cause the Cat rocks my world on a regular basis). Bonus!
Humble Pie
CLOSED
Food made with hate can leave a nasty taste in your mouth. Especially eggs, according to Joshua Norwitt of the recently opened Humble Pie in Penngrove.
It’s a sort of mantra that he and fiance Miriam Lee Donaldson (the chef) have repeated to themselves for the six weeks or so since opening the homestyle eatery attached to the Black Cat Bar. Food
made with love just goes down a whole lot better than food that isn’t.
He says the couple came up with the idea for Humble Pie while sitting in a diner in Southern California. “You could just tell the food there was made with hate. The chef was back there sweating and cursing,” he
told BiteClub. When their eggs arrived, the couple suddenly lost their appetite. “You could just taste the hate,” Josh said.
After working in restaurants up and down the coast (Josh is a Petaluma native and worked at Della Fattoria), they decided to take over the tiny kitchen at Penngrove’s famously eccentric bar when its chili-making owner recently retired. Armed with a handful of family recipes
and some serious sibling togetherness (his sister Brook McCann and her chef husband Dan are also helping out), they’re serving an opening menu of locally sourced comfort food with an emphasis on pie–from tater tot to banana cream.
Everything is made from scratch, from the ketchup and hand-formed tots to the wontons. It’s a labor of love that may end up too big a challenge for the small staff in the long-term,
but endearing nonetheless. The tot pie is a motherhood classic, done with shredded taters and cheese. Despite needing a bit more seasoning, it brings a huge smile of childhood familiarity. Fry Babies ($6) are homemade wontons stuffed with veggie cream cheese sitting in a pool
of smackingly good honey ginger sauce. They need a goosing in the
crispy department, but have solid potential. Also for starters, Blue Balls (local beef and pork stuffed with Point Reyes Blue cheese ($7) and prosciutto wrapped melon.
BiteClub fell in love with The Fungus Among Us ($12)
— two buttery baked polenta cakes slathered with shitake ragu and a
side of refreshing sesame draped greens. It’s dead-on delish. We caught
a whiff of the potato-topped Shepard’s Pie ($12), but McNibs was feeling carnivorous and dove into a Steak Sandie ($12) piled with rare tri-tip, horseradish cream and red onions. Also on the menu, the ZucCanoe — a zucchini stuffed with cheese, crumbs and herbs ($9) and Lasagne pie ($10).
Dessert is, not surprisingly, pie. Homemade banana cream was
the dessert of the night, though we caught a fleeting glimpse of peach.
Early birds get the pie, here. The wine list is compact, but the
kitchen has come up with some unique fruity beverages made with a mix
of wine, strawberries and champagne.
Sitting in the tiny candlelit restaurant feels a lot like sitting in someone’s dining room.
You can hear every joke in the kitchen. An old record player belts out
scratchy vinyl, the plates and tables are adorably mismatched and every
so often the chef steals a zucchini or two from the centerpieces for
her creations. You can’t help but love the folksy vibe.
The menu is set to change up frequently depending on the chef’s whims and what’s in the garden. Like
mom’s kitchen, not every dish is perfect, but all are made with a
reassuring amount of butter and love. You’ll be hard-pressed to leave
Humble Pie’s table hungry or unsatisfied.
Humble Pie,
10045 Main St., Penngrove, 707.664.8779. Open Wed. through Sunday 5pm
to late (12ish). Friday and Saturday, 5pm to 2am.
If you go:
Unlike mom’s kitchen, the restaurant is open late–until 2am on Friday
and Saturday. You can get the full menu at the Cat’s bar (including
tater tots if you ask nice), so you don’t have to miss a second of
whatever country-punk, banjo-playing, wig or lingerie show that happens
to be happening. (Which I say with nothing but love, cause the Cat
rocks my world on a regular basis). Bonus!
Taste of Railroad Square
The first annual Taste of Railroad Square happens Saturday, Aug. 23 from 12-4pm in, uh, you guessed it, Railroad Square. What exactly does the square taste like? For $40 (this is a benefit for the 6th Street Playhouse), you can find out by stuffing your face with gourmet goodies from the likes of Syrah, Stark’s Lococo’s and more. In addition to the tasty bites, the event alos features wine, beer, live music and other fun.
But you know, we’re all about the food, so here’s some of the lineup:
– Josef’s Restaurant: Curried salmon cake, vegetarian lavosh, spanekopita with cheese and spinach, prosciutto with melon
– Starks Restaurant and Kendall Jackson Winery: Mini Kobe Beef Sliders with Black Truffle French Fries, paired with Kendall Jackson wine.
– LoCoco’s Cucina Rusica: Crusini with prosciutto, figs marscapone and/or homemade ricotta & spinach ravioli
– Pizzio’s Cucina Italiana: Gnocchi with Gorganzola sauce, Penne con Salsicce (a Double Gold Winner at the Harvest Fair), Pesto with Chicken, Shell pasta with Ricotta Sauce and/or a hearty cheesy red sauce.
Syrah Bistro: Deep dark chocolate brownies
Mmmm. Brownies. Also in the house will be future resident Jack & Tony’s Restaurant & Whisky Bar (which isn’t set to open until later this year) serving up tri-tip; Wine Spectrum and others.
Check out the details at tasteofrailroadsquare.org.
Alcatraz Seafood
Just a quick heads up today on a fab find that came in from a BiteClubber about Alcatraz Seafoods. The fish market on Sebastopol Road is now offering made-to-order seafood sandwiches, fish ‘n chips and chowder as well as BBQ oysters, bacon-wrapped tuna skewers, shrimp and salmon kabobs on Friday and Saturday afternoons.
There’s no better spot to get fresh fish than straight from the source, so I had to follow up on this one right away. Bless you, Sylvia W. who tipped me off to the lobster rolls.
Made with toasted New England split top rolls (they claim to be flown
in fresh daily), the a generous fist-full of lobster meat is mixed with
mayo and tarragon and slathered onto the sandwich. For $9.89, it seems
almost a steal to get that much lobster.
Despite the heat, I had to check out the Clam Chowder ($4.25)
as well. It’s a thinner than some of the spoon-standing versions I’ve
had before, but that’s not a bad thing by a mile. I knew I had a winner
when I found a nice little film of butter camped out along the top.
Nice. Though I might suggest just a bit more creaminess, the smoked
bacon adds a nice earthy savoriness to the clams and taters.
There’s also an albacore tuna sandwich ($4.99)
made with ultra-low mercury fish, Bay shrimp ($5.99) in a light Louie
sauce, smoked lox (award winning) and a Dungeness Crab sandwich. On the
fried tip, check it out: Calamari and chips!
Keep in mind this is primarily a wholesale/retail fish market, so seating is a bit of an afterthought. There
are just a couple of picnic tables outside the front door with a lovely
view of the parking lot. And possibly a whiff or two of used ice and
oceanic detritus. But who needs luxe when you’ve got lox?
The
market also offers lots of fresh fish — bug-eyed snapper, Ahi,
calamari and the like for subsequent meals. You can fax in your order
ahead of time for quick pickup.
Sea you there.
Alcatraz Seafoods, 3230 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa, 707.527.8876. Open daily 9am to 6pm.