It’s hardly news to the carnivorous-set that Mike’s at the Crossroads is probably the best place to dive into a nice half-pounder in the North Bay. Count me among the converted, having recently refreshed my tastebuds with a classic Mike burger ($6.50). Maybe its the tomato relish, the soft buns, the pristine lettuce or the Harris Ranch chuck ground locally. Maybe it’s just the lowbrow, DGAF-vibe that sticks a spatula in the eye of Wine Country foodie pomposity. Whichever way you grill it, it works.

What’s got fans atwitter, however, are the fries. For years, Mike steadfastly refused to make ’em. He had eleven reasons, in fact, why there was no changing his mind.

With a recent change in ownership, however, fries have made a debut on the menu. Mind you, they’re only around on Fridays at this point, but you can now get them hot, greasy and delish. Me? I’m still a fan of the dijon potato salad, thank you. But don’t let me keep you from getting your knickers twisted about it, though.

Need more reasons to check out Mikes? If you’re still a virgin, start with the classic. No substitutions, no changes. Even though he’s no longer an owner, Mike’s rules live on (as does the Jets schwag): All burgers get cheese (in fact, they’ll charge you a nickel to take it off); all burgers are cooked medium rare (a warm pink center).

Looking for more excitement in your life? Check out the KRUSH burger with sauteed mushrooms, onions and garlic in a Zinfandel glaze; a Western hickory burger, blue cheese burger (the Nauvoo), Stinky Breath Burger (guaranteed to keep people outta your face all afternoon) and the newish chili burger. Your call. I like to keep things simple.

Whether Mike’s is the (self-proclaimed ) best burger west of the Pecos is still up for some debate. It’s a mean burger, for sure. With fries? Even meaner. But just how mean? Show up in a Patriots jersey and order a white zinfandel at the bar and you’ll find out.

Mike’s at the Crossroads, 7665 Old Redwood Hwy., Cotati, (707) 665-9999

When someone says cheap and Indian food in the same breath,
it’s usually a recipe for indigestion, if not worse. You just don’t
want to play roulette with bargain-basement goat meat and lamb
slathered with curry sauce. Hence my slight trepidation when
BiteClubbers turned me onto Masala Jack’s which recently opened in
Cotati, featuring a menu full of curries under $7–many under $5.

Instead,
BiteClub found one of Europe’s largest curry chains come to America.
The new Cotati restaurant (which we hear may be branching out to Santa
Rosa’s downtown soon) is slick and clean, upscale Indian dining on a
daal budget. Though I’ve only begun piecing the details together, it
appears that Masala Jacks is an offshoot of Masala Jak’s–a popular
Indian restaurant from Glasgow, Scotland. That alone gives the spot
cred, as legend has it that tikka masala (one of the most popular curry
dishes ever) got its start on the British Isles. Suffice to say Brits
(and Scots) know their curry.

So here’s the deal. The menu is
packed with Indian delights both familiar and exotic. With prices so
low, feel free to explore outside your comfort zone. Palak Pakora ($2.95)
are deep fried spinach fritters that come with tamarind and mint
dipping sauce and are nearly enough for a meal on their own. Chicken Tikka Masala ($6.95) is a spicier, hotter version that you’ll find elsewhere in SoCo, but filled with big chunks of chicken. Palak Paneer,
a fresh homemade cheese cooked in creamy spinach sauce ($5.95) has
plenty of heat as well, cranking up the fascination factor on a dish
that sometimes crosses into Gerber-like mush.

Tandoor dishes, cooked in a clay oven, include the usual chicken and kababs, but also include Batakh Achari ($9.95), a pickled duck served with mango chutney. Karayla Ghosht ($5.95), a combination of bitter melon and lamb studded with spices or Bengan Bharta ($5.95), a mesquite smoked eggplant cooked with onions, tomatoes and spices that’s a perfect match with jasmine rice.

Everything
is prepared to order, so expect to cool your heels and kick back with
some Bollywood on the flat screen if you’ve got a big order. Bets bet
is to chillax with a glass of mango lassi and order up some naan. The
clay-oven baked flatbread comes in a variety-pack of flavors, from
plain to garlic, onion, cherry-stuffed and (BiteClub’s fave), chili cheese.

The one drawback to Jack’s is the fervor with which they spice, well, everything. You’ll
find whole cloves, cardamom and other herbal goodies in everything from
curries to rice. It’s not a fun thing to bite down on any sort of whole
spice, so be aware. Heat can also be eye-wateringly intense on some
dishes, so ask your server ahead of time if you’d like things cooled
down.

It’s fairly amazing that Masala Jack’s can keep prices so
low while serving up tandoor and curry that’s on par with some of the
better Indian restaurants in town. Maybe its better not to ask too many questions. And just go with the Bollywood vibe.

Masala
Jack’s Original Good Ol’ Indian Curryhouse. Open daily 11:30am to 9pm;
7981 Old Redwood Hwy, Cotati, 707.795.2251. Order ahead if you’re
planning to take out.

Despite some tough economic times, there’s no reason to go hungry. BiteClub’s putting together a big fat list of cheap eats for Wine Country. Here’s your chance to add your .02 for the best, yummiest and most satisfying meals on a budget.

Have at it…And stay tuned for the results.

When talking about a restaurant as well-worn as Juanita, Juanita I tend to gird my loins a bit. Folks who’ve been eating there for years either come out in rousing support or, uh, start hurling rotten eggs at me for daring to mention it. (Don’t believe me? Check out my riff on Hank’s Creekside).

All of which is fine because I don’t smell that great to begin with. But after hearing locals go on and on and on about this funky little hole-in-the-wall Mexican restaurant, BiteClub felt compelled to at least dip a toe in the guacomole. (Not literally of course, that would be unsanitary).

Located well off the main square, it’s everything a divey little spot should be: Ramshackle, weird, a little dusty around the edges, un-air conditioned and with politely detached wait staff. The Modern Tijanuana decor equals vibrant paint, faded pinatas, neon beer signs and hand-drawn pictures covering the walls. It’s charming to the extreme–the kind of place visitors are thrilled to stumble upon for the “real” Sonoma experience. Whether locals appreciate that discovery is a whole other thing.

And though the spot is anything but upscale, don’t expect gloopy refried beans and leathery meat here. Don’t expect $3 burritos either. Supers start at $8.50 and quickly hit double-digits. Worth it? From the heft alone (my arm was aching just to hold it up), you may be able to feed a whole family with just one of these edible missiles.

Don’t miss the Garlic Garlic Burrito ($11 with meat, $13.50 with prawns) filled with avocado, black beans, cheese, fresh spinach, garlic walnut paste, sour cream and veggies. And by veggies, we mean fresh corn, tomatoes, peppers and peas (!?). No rice. It’s easily the tastiest burrito I’ve ever tackled — and I’ve tackled quite a few.

Also on the a la carte menu are tostadas, nachos, quesadillas and tacos, as well as heartier entrees like the Chanchamito (a fried burrito), enchiladas (only after 5pm), tamales, half roasted Jamaican chicken and the popular Chipotle Plate ($14.85) — a grilled chicken in chipotle cream sauce that’s muy picante.

Purists may decry some of Juanita’s creative interpretations, but the
marriage of authentic ingredients and solid cooking make for good
eating in my book.

Head to the outdoor patio to find locals digging into chips and salsa on summer nights. I’ll leave it to them to fill you in on all the ins-and-outs of Juanita, Juanita over a cerveza or two. But please, keep your rotten eggs to yourself.

Keep in mind: Juanita, Juanita doesn’t take plastic, so plan accordingly. 19114 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, 707.935.3981. Open 11am to 8p Sunday through Monday. Closed Tuesday.

Raise your forked-filled fist in the air and wave it around like you actually care. The Slow Food Nation converges on San Francisco August 29 through Sept. 1, 2008 for an inaugural gathering at the altars of Pollan, Petrini and Waters — a sort of latter day organic movement headed up by this farm-to-table triumvirate. Think Terra Madre Bay Area.

It’s not an unfamiliar refrain to those of us living in Slow Food Country — in fact, I sometimes get a little tired of the fresh-local-organic drumbeat that every chef in the Bay Area seems to have adopted (though the alternative of stale-foreign-processed doesn’t sound that appetizing). Keep in mind that Slow Food isn’t just about lettuce and apples. The movement encompasses cheeses, meats, fish and wine.

With Mother Slow, Alice Waters of Chez Panisse, just around the corner (and sourcing much of her famous restaurant’s food from Sonoma/Marin/Napa) we’ve had some time to hear the call. Most of us already get that our delicate food system depends on local farming, sustainable practices and supporting conscientious artisan producers.

But even so, many are still waking up to the idea that eating tomatoes flown half-way around the world in January might not be such a good idea.

The Labor Day weekend event featuring the gastronomic rock-star lineup of author Michael Pollan, Slow Food founder Carlo Petrini, activist Vandana Shiva and food writer Corby Kummer is all about education. The program goes introspective with a series of “Food for Thought” discussions. If you think better with your stomach, however, a trip to the bountiful Taste Pavilions might be more your speed. Designed at Fort Mason by local architects, each of the 15 pavilions will offer a flight of foods from producers around the country — from beer to chocolate.

Also in the lineup are hands-on workshops, hikes, Bay Area journeys, an outdoor music festival (featuring Gnarls Barkley and Ozomatli) and the special Slow Dinners around the region. A little something for every palate.

Locals on tap (which seem suspiciously hard to find, but email me if you’re among them) include Joel Baecker of Pizza Politana, Saint Benoit Yogurt, June Taylor preserves, Marshall’s Farm Honey, Laloo Goat Milk Ice Cream, Straus, McEvoy Ranch, Ecco Caffe Coffee Roasters, Sonoma Direct, Medlock Ames and others.

Slow Food Nation ’08, Aug 20-Sept 1, slowfoodnation.org