Page 637 – Sonoma Magazine

Best Pancakes in Sonoma County

March 2009

By biteclub

Sonoma's Big 3 Diner lemon pancakes — Sonoma’s Big 3 Diner’s Lemon Pancakes | Heather Irwin

From Santa Rosa’s greasy spoons to divine diners, there’s no shortage of hotcake flippers in Wine Country. BiteClub susses out some of the best pancakes around…
Weekday mornings are a blur of sack lunches, misplaced gym clothes, and races against the school bell. By definition, they’re Cheerios and frozen waffle days, with an occasional overly ambitious egg sandwich tucked into a backpack. Anything involving a recipe or frying pans is, frankly, out of the question.
The jig’s up on Saturday. Tiny, slippered feet pad into my bedroom at 8am with uncanny predictability and two small voices demand what’s been denied for five unbearable days — pancakes. Resistance is futile.
And more often than not, I can be strong-armed into pulling out the flour, sugar, and milk to whip up a batch from scratch. Mother’s guilt.
Even better, though, when someone else stands behind the grill and washes up afterwards.
Totally corny: Hallie’s is where Petalumans line up for breakie standards with a Latin twist. Homemade corncakes are polenta-soft inside and get a kick from a side of Cajun sausage. 125 Keller St., Petaluma,
(707) 773-1143.
The standard: There’s a reason Hank’s Creekside always has a crowd at the door — the pancakes. Made from scratch (many breakfast spots use a pre-made mix), they’re steamier than a romance novel (and way more satisfying). 2800 4th St., Santa Rosa, (707) 575-8839.
More pancake spots to check out:
Dierk’s Parkside Cafe: 404 Santa Rosa Avenue, Santa Rosa, 707-573-5955
Garden Court Cafe: 13647 Arnold Dr, Glen Ellen, (707) 935-1565
Carlos’ Country Kitchen: 90 W College Ave, Santa Rosa
Sam’s For Play: 2630 Cleveland Ave, Santa Rosa
East West Cafe: 128 N Main St, Sebastopol and 557 Summerfield Rd., Santa Rosa

BIG 3 DINER’S LEMON-COTTAGE CHEESE PANCAKES
Serving size: 8
Preparation time: 20 minutes5 lemons — zest and juice
6 whole eggs, separated
1 cup powered sugar
1 cup all-purpose flour (approximately)
1 pint low-fat cottage cheese
½ pound clarified butterMix lemon juice, lemon zest, egg yolks, cottage cheese and powdered sugar.
Mix in flour.
Add clarified butter.
Whip egg whites to soft / medium peaks. Fold whites into batter.
Cook pancakes on a greased griddle to desired firmness.
Serve garnished with crème fraîche, a thinly sliced lemon twist and powdered sugar.

Trattoria Lupo: Santa Rosa

March 2009

By biteclub

CLOSED

Roberto is back. Seems the popular Santa Rosa restauranteur couldn’t sit by idly and watch his Italian trattoria fade into mediocrity after selling it several years ago. So Roberto Catania bought it back and now mans the door like the paisan he can’t help but be, embracing old friends with tight hugs and sidling into crowded booths like he never left left the place.
You’re either one of the family, or you soon will be.
Roberto’s, now renamed Trattoria Lupo in honor of Sonoma Valley scribe Jack London (lupo means ‘wolf’ in Italian) is the same dark, crowded, neighborhood chianti and osso buco spot it’s always been. Black-clad waiters snap around the room under the watchful eye of the restaunt’s affable Don.
And though Roberto probably wouldn’t appreciate all the Soprano’s comparisons folks can’t help to make about his chummy Italian eatery, he doesn’t exactly eschew the old school veal and red sauce vibe that permeates every corner of the room.
Which is not to say this is ‘Mama Mia’ spaghetti and meatballs fare. Roberto has pared down the menu to a managable list of classics — Veal Saltimbocca, polenta with sausage, unparalleled gnocchi, lamb shanks and Calamari Steak Dorado among the favorites.
This isn’t a fussy, ‘whatever’s in season’ menu. Chances are if you loved the ravioli last month it will still be on the menu next month — and consistency, predictablility and comfort always attract a crowd. There are a few daily specials, and Osso Buco (which wasn’t on the menu on either of my visits) is a much-anticipated treat.
What works so well is that the food is so unexpectedly good. Not haute cuisine, not tweezer-perfect and not even dead-on with every dish, but consistently tasty. The exterior, with its 60’s ranch architecture, faux-finish facade and Creamsicle orange paint, can be a barrier to entry. But inside it’s cozy and pin-neat –on the weekends, jammed to within an inch of bursting at the seams.

Waiting at the tiny, seemingly tacked-on full bar at the back, gives you a few minutes to peruse the menu and watch the drama unfolding in the dining room — families, a huge booth of gals having a well-earned night out, Roberto kissing babies and glad-handing old friends.
Best bets: Pasta and polenta are top-scorers for BiteClub. BiteClub Jr. and I nearly came to blows over a plate of cloud-like ghocchi. Veal is a signature dish, the Saltimbocca topped with mozzarella, prosciutto and a light white wine sauce. The carpaccio can’t compete with (as one Yelper pointed out) Cucina Paradiso’s in Petaluma, tasting more like very rare roast beef than the very sweet, clean flavor I prefer, but it’s certainly still worth a try. If you do nothing else, do not miss the housemade tiramisu. Layers of booze-soaked lady fingers, espresso powder, macarpone.
Working the room obsessively, Cantania stops at each table to ask if your food’s alright. If you need more wine. If you’re happy. And with Santa Rosa’s favorite paisan back in charge, chances are you will be.
Trattoria Lupo (formerly Roberto’s), 4776 Sonoma Hwy, Santa Rosa, 707-539-0260, open Tuesday through Sunday, from 4pm to 10pm.

Tater Tot Pie Recipe

February 2009

By biteclub

Tater Tot Casserole: From
“There’s Not A Healthy Recipe in This Whole Damn Book, A Guide to
Southern Comfort Food” by Paula Thomas Oandason. Available online at
Barnes and Noble online.

The recipe couldn’t be simpler (and
doesn’t include any specific measurements in the cookbook). The gist of
it: Cover the bottom of a greased baking dish (I used a 9X9 pan) with
frozen tater tots. On top of that, layer sour cream, pats of butter
(about 1/2 a stick, but to your liking), shredded cheese (I used a bag
of pre-shredded cheddar) and cooked crumbled bacon. Bake at 350
degrees, covered with aluminum foil for about 45 minutes. Remove the
foil and cook for an additional 10 minutes uncovered. Serve. Brent
Farris from KZST thinks it would be good with caramelized onions added
in.

Ghee Whiz: Ancient Organics Ghee

February 2009

By biteclub

I am forever running in circles. Stressing out about something I can’t remember an hour later. Huffing over every slight and feeling queasy about the hundreds of things left to do each day. And no direct sunlight, thank you.
This makes me a pretty typical “pitta” person apparently — an Ayurvedic description of everything from my digestive habits (how personal!) to my anger management techniques. Despite such rash labels being a little earthy-crunchy for my sensibilities my new pal, ghee-maker Peter Malakoff, informs me of my diagnosis within five minutes of our meeting.
I gotta wonder what else 5,000 years of collective Indian wisdom is telling him about me. I instinctively suck in my gut and start worrying if I’ve put on enough deodorant today.
Walking a quiet path around his rented Bolinas home, Malakoff, the founder of Ancient Organics, a Marin-based company exclusively devoted to small production ghee, plays Dharma to my Greg. We ponder the imponderables, expand our minds and explore our life paths before we get down to the business of his burgeoning butter empire. You don’t talk ghee without a little back story.
A towering, soft-spoken guy with expressive hands and a penchant for berets, he spins a complex tale of the magical Indian elixir used for millennia. Not quite butter and not quite oil, ghee is the very essence of grass distilled from cow’s milk into liquid gold, in his words.
In less flowery terms, it’s fresh butter boiled for hours to within an inch of its life. It’s used for everything from flavoring food to salving burns and improving complexions. A Swiss-Army knife of Indian condiments.
During the process of ghee-making, milk solids evaporate and what’s left is a paste-like spread that can sit on your shelf – un-refrigerated – for six months. It tastes like really good movie theater butter, meaning that uber-buttery, almost over-the-top flavor that’s hard to get enough of. In a good way.

But this Indian pantry-staple is almost unheard in the west. Which really bums out Ayurvedic practioners like Malakoff who proselytize the wonders of ghee with delicious fervor.

Unlike butter, he says, ghee is actually healthful. It awakes the digestive fire of the body, penetrates deep into the tissues and helps to give balance. Unlike butter doctors (at least Ayurvedic ones) recommend it rather than eschew it. Mixing a shockingly big blob it into rice, he hands me the bowl for a taste. Mmmm. Buttery. But good for you?
Consider what goes into it: Organic Straus Creamery butter from Marin. That’s it, except for some powerful good vibes in the guise of six (or so) continual hours of the ‘Mahamrtunjaya’ mantra played during it’s boiling and only made during the waxing moon (about 14 of 28 days of the month). Like many of biodynamic practices, it has everything to do with the tidal phases of the moon.
Malakoff and his assistant use a cooperative kitchen in Richmond make 1,000 to 1,500 pounds of ghee each month, give or take. The sunshine yellow containers make their way into Whole Foods and Bi-Rites around the Bay Area and ultimately around the globe to his growing fan-base.
And whether you put his ghee in organic brown rice with lentils or on top of your pancakes (which he laughingly calls “God’s Realization”) isn’t really the point. Malakoff ultimately just wants to make you think about what you’re eating. “What we eat is what we become,” he tells me. Sadly, I’m probably a turkey sandwich with mayo these days. But you have to appreciate the absolute focus and belief he puts into each jar of ghee.
He sends off each precious jar as if they’re children he’s seeing off. And in a sense they are considering the time and energy he’s invested. In return, I feel an obligation to take good care of his sunny little offspring. Even if it’s just slathering another spoonful on top of my morning waffle.
Ancient Organics Ghee, available as some Whole Foods or at online. Prices: 16oz,, $18.75, 32oz, $32.50.

Box vs. Bottle: Can a chef tell the difference?

February 2009

By biteclub

No matter how you spin it, box wines are still the red-headed stepchild of the swirl and sniff crowd. The mere mention sends most serious wine drinkers into fits of laughter. Or disgust.

Which isn’t totally fair. Drinkers in Australia and Europe have embraced the box. There are serious French, Italian and Australian wines being sold and drunk in this highly practical format — high-tech sealed plastic bags that keep wine fresh for up to a month after opening.

In the US, we’re still a little shy. Low-end bulk wines still dominate the box market –the pink stuff your grandpa used to foist on you at parties. But there are a few forward-thinkers, most notably Black Box (which has won numerous awards), putting some reasonably tasty wine inside cardboard boxes.

Which brings me to the big question: Are we just being snobs about the whole thing? Is the packaging influencing us more than what’s actually in it? But most importantly, could trained chefs actually tell the difference between a boxed wine and a comparably-priced bottled wine in a blind test?

The answer is yes. And no.

Continue reading “Box vs. Bottle: Can a chef tell the difference?”

Niman Ranch founder won’t eat the meat?

February 2009

By biteclub

A fascinating article in the Chronicle about the departure of Niman Ranch’s founder from his own company was brought to my attention yesterday. As most foodies (and chefs) know, Bill Niman’s sustainably and humanely raised meats were the darlings of many a kitchen despite their cost.

Seems that in Niman’s case, sustainability and ‘doing good’ couldn’t ultimately make a profit and the company narrowly escaped bankruptcy by turning its holdings over to Chicago’s Natural Food Holdings LLC. Niman has stepped away from the business and is now claiming that the company’s standards have dropped significantly.

It’s a tale that I’ve heard over and over and over again. I’ve been a huge fan of many artisan producers who, frankly, just couldn’t ultimately make the business succeed financially. Ideals are lofty notions that don’t always jibe with the cold, hard reality of capitalism.

It breaks my heart, just as the sale of Scharffen Berger to Hershey’s broke my heart. And the loss of so many other great producers.

The good news is that there’s always seems to be someone with a big idea, big hopes and big dreams ready to fill the void. I hope.

Read the Chronicle article.

Epicurean Connection, Sonoma

February 2009

By biteclub

Sheana Davis of the Epicurean Connection in Sonoma

Sheana Davis is a catering institution an nationally-respected cheesemaker who’s part of the fabric of the town of Sonoma. Suffice to say, she was farm-to-table before farm-to-table was cool.
Her eclectic shop and cafe, Epicurean Connection (now at 122 West Napa Street) brings together some of the best artisan cheeses and specialty foods (jams, sauces, olive oils) and fresh pastas that only she can suss out. Her close relationship with the Zingerman’s crew and frequent trips to New Orleans and San Francisco only add to her cache of food knowledge.
There’s always room at the family table for her slow cooked pulled pork sandwiches on fresh Dutch Crunch rolls (the best I’ve had in ages), homemade soups, cheese plates and daily baguette specials.
Don’t forget to pick up a container of her Delice de la Vallee, a tasty soft cheese made with triple cream cow and goat milk and her newly-released Creme de Fromage.
Each February, she hosts the Annual Sonoma Valley Cheese Conference
Epicurean Connection, 122 W. Napa St., Sonoma

La Gare French Restaurant | Santa Rosa

February 2009

By biteclub

Old school French fare in Santa Rosa’s Railroad Square, with a menu that bursts with butter. If you’re on a diet you can either go somewhere else or shatter the calorie counter. This is Julia Child-era French cuisine, from Escargots de Bourgogne to Carré d’Agneau persillé to Crème Caramel Beau Rivage. The most popular menu item, however, is the Chateaubriand or Steak Au Poivre.
Don’t miss the flaming tableside dessert of Cherries Jubilee! If you get out of here for less than $100 each (including wine, of course), you haven’t been eating right.
Popular local icon Chef Roger Praplan has been cooking in this spot for 30-years and has a rabid fan base of supporters — although even his best fans acknowledge that the interior is ready for a redo.
208 Wilson St., Santa Rosa, (707) 528-4355.

Jack and Tony’s Whisky Bar opens: With liquor license

February 2009

By biteclub

Jack and Tony’s is open for business in Santa Rosa’s Railroad Square. The restaurant, in the former Capri space, focuses on American comfort classics and an extensive whiskey tasting menu. Mmmm, whiskey. It’s the second restaurant for Chef Jack Mitchell, also of Sassafras.

The restaurant will be open for lunch Monday through Friday and dinner M-Saturday, but what’s got downtowners really buzzing is having another Sunday brunch spot in the neighborhood.

Opening brunch menu is a three-course prix fixe menu that ranges from crab cakes and baked brie (appetizers) to biscuits and gravy, corned beef hash, eggs Benedict and steak sandwiches as entrees. Pricing is $19 for adults, $12 for kids under 12.

<LUNCH UPDATE>: Stopped in for a late lunch yesterday. I like the menu selections — steak sandwich, burger, mussels and tasty comfort grub. Also well-matched to the season is a daily ‘yesterday’s soup’, which the server described as soup made yesterday because the chef says soup is always better the next day. The restaurant also does a housemade ketchup that’s stellar.

On the downside, the space is cavernous without much on the walls and feels very industrial. A customer behind me ranted for several minutes about the restaurant not having a seafood fork for her mussels. A minor issue, but details count. My open-faced steak sandy was good, if not epiphanous, and service is still spotty. (One server was very attentive, while other folks kind of wandered around the room. I also waited a couple of minutes for someone to seat me.)

It’s early in the game, admittedly, but there’s still work to be done if Jack & Tony’s is going to survive these rocky economic times. I appreciated that my server asked for feedback before I left. That shows they’re trying to get things right.

Railroad Square business owners seem to be glad to have the new kid on the block and with it’s large bar an and experienced chef at the helm, BiteClub thinks the kinks will work themselves out. Plus, I’m darned excited about the whiskey tasting.

Cyrus Restaurant | Healdsburg

February 2009

By biteclub

CLOSED
Cyrus Restaurant, Healdsburg’s hautest eatery has garnered enough culinary stars to light up most of Wine Country, yet remains as friendly and hospitable as the day it opened.
Culinary wunderkind Douglas Keane heads a precision-focused kitchen team that rivals that of The French Laundry, creating multi-course tasting menus that can span hours and cost upwards of $300 per person. A covetous wine list and caviar service round out the luxe experience.
Aside from the obvious, what sets this chef/owner apart from the competition is Keane’s passion for Japanese cuisine. Throughout the menu, you’ll find ingredients like yuzu, tofu, seaweed and other Asian Rim flavors woven into the fabric of more traditional French and Wine Country dishes. (Sea Scallop with Sweet Potato-Passion Fruit Puree and Turnip, Poke for example). Though it’s not a calling card, Keane experiments with molecular wizardry and gadgets from time to time, but signature dishes usually are more about the ingredients than the gee-whiz factor. What Keane can’t grow himself, he gets in abundance from artisan farmers throughout the Dry Creek Valley.
Co-owner and Maitre’d Hotel Nick Peyton has hospitality in his blood, having worked at some of the tip-toppiest hotels and restaurants in the Bay Area. But despite a crispy-buttoned exterior, Peyton is a down-to-earth family-guy who can be found eating at sausage stands and neighborhood bistros on his days off.
Lauded Pastry Chef Nicole Plue brings the dessert course up to the level of Keane’s cuisine with mind-bending sweets that need more than a single line of explanation on the menu. (Butterscotch “Sundae”, Popcorn Tuile and Chocolate Soil)
The restaurant has added lunch service along with a vegetarian tasting menu that’s a treat for even the most dedicated of carnivores.
See the menus
Cyrus Restaurant, 29 North St., Healdsburg, 707.433.3311