Page 636 – Sonoma Magazine

Artisan Cheese Festival

March 2009

By biteclub

Aging like a fine cheddar, Petaluma’s Artisan Cheese Festival turns three this year, adding even more depth and flavor to the four-day festival of dairy deliciousness.

The annual gathering draws artisan fromagers Northern California and Oregon and their fans for a weekend of non-stop chatting and chewing about the wonders hand-crafted cheese. Which is actually pretty fascinating (and reaaaally fragrant), considering that the North Coast is where some of the country’s best cheese is being made these days.

Tickets are all but sold out, though a handful remain if you’re just dying to get your slice on. You can also participate a la carte, heading to one of several area restaurants hosting cheesemaker dinners on Friday night or mingling around Sunday’s Artisan Cheese Marketplace (advance tickets are recommended, or you can just take your chances and show up).

BiteClub will be there for the duration, first cut to final slice, so stay tuned for updates. Meanwhile, if you’re inclined to participate, here’s how the weekend rolls. Get your knife and crackers ready…

– Friday Night Dine Around: Zazu, Syrah, Zin, Restaurant Eloise, Della Fattoria, Cucina Paradiso and Central Market will all host special cheese-centric dinners in honor of the festival on Friday night only. Click here for the list, as well as how to make a reservation.

– Saturday: Seminar central. Some top picks include; Strong Cheese and Stout Brews with cheese gal Sheana Davis; Traveling the Oregon Cheese Trail with David Gremmels of Rogue Creamery; the New Artisan Food Landscape with Steve Sando (Rancho Gordo), Taylor Boetticher of Fatted Calf and a host of others. More info on the seminars.

– Artisan Gala dinner with John Ash, Duskie Estes (Zazu), Josh Silvers (Syrah) and others. Buy Tickets ($170).

– Sunday: Artisan Cheese Marketplace. Eat. Drink. Eat. A wonderland for food lovers.

– Monday: Creamery Field Trips. Head out to meet up with the folks who make cheese.

JUST THE FACTS:
When: March 20-23 2009
Where: Sheraton Sonoma County Petaluma, 745 Baywood Drive, (707) 283-2888

Need to do a little pre-cheese homework?
Culture Magazine is the skin mag for cheese-philes: Informative articles and glossy close-ups that’ll have you licking the pages. Alone. At night. More info: culturecheesemag.com/

Clark Wolf’s American Cheeses
I’ve been woefully behind in talking about this amazing book by SoCo’s own Clark Wolf. A funny and fascinating storyteller who’s got the chops to know what he’s talking about, Wolf weaves together stories of his own life along with vignettes about the cheesemakers from coast to coast. Definite required reading. Can I grow up to be you, Clark? Find out more.

Corned Beef

March 2009

By biteclub

Despite my Irish(ish) heritage, the annual St. Patrick’s Day corned beef adventure is one that I have, so far, avoided at all costs. Like a lot of other folks, wearing green, imbibing in stout beer and Irish coffee is about as Mac-involved as I really care to be. The Irish, let’s face it, aren’t usually known for their culinary prowess and if we’re being honest here, boiling meat within an inch of its life is not my idea of good eats.

Quaint and authentic yes. Delish? Not usually. Just pass the scones and oatmeal and we’ll call it good.

But here’s the thing: Corned beef is a uniquely American food steeped in history (along with pickling spices, but more on that later). It’s the culinary match that could only be made in New York, the lovechild of Jewish immigrants’ plentiful kosher beef brisket and Irish immigrants’ love of salty, boiled meats. Throw in a little cabbage, some pickling spices and potatoes and what we think of as Boiled Dinner (or Corned Beef and Cabbage) was born. In fact, so American was this invention that Abraham Lincoln served it as his inauguration and millions still consume it as a right of spring.*

So, how to do it right?

Continue reading “Corned Beef”

First Look: Rendez Vous Bistro

March 2009

By biteclub

Eager eaters are already packing downtown SR’s newest French bistro, chomping to see what former Emile’s Creekside chef Emile Waldteufel has up his sleeve. After an extensive overhaul, it’s an amazing space dominated by a large wood bar and a sunny Left Bank vibe.The menu is tres Parisian fare: from onion soup and escargot to Steak Frites, Sole Meuniere and Boeuf Bourginon.
But stakes are high in this crowded field which includes contenders like K&L Bistro, Chloe’s, Mirepoix and nearby Bistro 29 which have already proven their mettle. At first blush there’s still some translation getting lost — ho-hum frites, crackle-free creme brulee and some so-so sauces.
The good news: Service is spot-on, the location is great and with a bit of menu tightening, Rendez-Vous could end up a downtown classic, especially for late-nighters (they’ll be open until midnight). The restaurant will open for morning croissants and coffee, along with a full lunch menu starting next week. 614 4th St., Santa Rosa, (707) 526-7700.

Santi coming to Santa Rosa

March 2009

By biteclub

Santi coming to Santa Rosa
BiteClub got it straight from Santi owner Doug Swett that a lease is in the works for the Geyserville Restaurant to move lock, stock and barrel to Fountaingrove Village next fall. The popular Italian trattoria will neighbor Traverso’s, leaving behind it’s casual pizzeria sibling, Diavola, up north. Swett plans to keep his regional Italian menu and chef, Liza Hinman, but is looking forward to daily lunches and later nights at the new location on Stagecoach Road.

Smokin’ in Windsor
Chef Rudy Mihal of Odyssey Restaurant is thinking ribs and brisket. While working for Chef Daniel Boulud a few years ago, Mihal tells BiteClub that he used to spend his off days working with an old Southern BBQ maestro. He’s bringing that ‘q’ love to his Windsor restaurant, smoking up pulled pork and braised greens while keeping many of his menu classics. A new project in the works? “I’m just doing the stuff I love for possible future endeavors.” 426 Emily Rose Cir., Windsor, (707) 836-7600.

Bistro 29 changing owners?
When “Change of Ownership” sign went up last week, BiteClub called to find out what’s up with the year-old French Bistro in downtown Santa Rosa. Never fear, your buckwheat crepes are safe. Chef Brian says all is well and that he and his wife are merely becoming a corporation, hence the public notice. The couple are continuing their 3-course dinners for $29. 620 5th St., Santa Rosa, (707) 546-2929.

Whiskey A Go-Go

March 2009

By biteclub

Tell me what you drink and I’ll tell you what you are — or at least what you think you are, to rip off the sentiments of Brilliant Savarin. And though we may drink for the very purpose of forgetting, at least for a few hours what we are, our spirits of choice are like a loudspeaker to the soul.

Take whiskey, if you dare. At its core, this ancient mash is little more than distilled beer. The very essence of humble grains, whiskey (or Bourbon or Scotch as it’s also known), is the beverage of fathers, uncles and tweedy English professors. Not the Junior League.

Which may be exactly why it holds such a fascination. Anything but the sweet and syrupy-sippers so easily tippled from a martini glass, whiskies are is contemplative beverages that require a bit of reflection to enjoy properly. Properly. Guzzling it backstage is an entirely different beast.

Serious whiskey drinkers appreciate their beverage on the rocks (with ice) or with a slight dillution of water to release their aroma and, well, not leave you choking on the fumes. With proofs ranging from 80 to 110 (and more), it’s a prudent way to enjoy.

But aside from Jack and Cokes, most of us aren’t real clear on exactly what we’re drinking.

Continue reading “Whiskey A Go-Go”

El Puente Cantina Santa Rosa

March 2009

By biteclub

Birria is a traditional Mexican soup usually served on weekends (shutterstock)

Number 42 on my ongoing must-eat list: birria, a Mexican meat stew usually made with lamb or goat. Along with pozole and menudo, it’s one-dish comfort food that attracts the same kind of dedicated followers you find face-first in a bowl of pho or homemade chicken noodle soup.
One of a handful of restaurants that reliably serve up this homey standard, along with an impressive list of cantina classics, is the unfortunately-located El Puente Cantina on Santa Rosa Ave. Backed by a freeway off-ramp and wedged next to Denny’s and a gas station, it takes a bit of muster to walk in off the street.
But for the hungry souls who venture in and it seems to be quite a few of you, judging from recent comments, El Puente’s cocina-style cooking (and full bar) is a welcome antidote to grubby taquerias and fast-food nachos.
With an eye toward regional home-cooking, most of El Puente’s dishes are simple — homey chilaquiles for breakfast, tostadas, carnitas, tamales and burritos along with heartier entrees like Chicken Mole, Camarones A La Diabla and weekend menudo.
Slightly more upscale are house favorites Chile Colorado, thin strips of pork in a rich red chili sauce (and also mine), along with meaty fajitas that come steaming to the table in a cloud of smoke and garlic. If you’re guilding the lily, try the Mojarra Entera Frita, a whole fried fish with tortillas.
Most dishes are solid renditions, served efficiently by friendly staff. Chiles Rellenos, sadly, don’t stand up to nearby Las Palmas’, but El Puente steals the show with their creamy, rich refried beans — a usually dismal side.
As an admitted newbie to the Mexican table, I’ll leave final judgments to more experienced tortilla-eaters. But now, at least you know where to get a solid margarita and that bowl of elusive birria — which by the way, is still on my list.
El Puente Cantina, 1709 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, 707.569.0988. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Zazu Restaurant: Can’t miss farm to feast classic in Sebastopol

March 2009

By biteclub

Zazu’s Restaurant and Farm’s husband and wife chef team, John Stewart and Duskie Estes, are the poster children for Sonoma County’s farm-to-table dining scene.
In fact, you’ll often see Duskie picking fresh herbs from the planter boxes on the restaurant patio, and the menu pulls from many of their Black Pig Meat Co. artisan pork and charcuterie. In the summer, tomatoes come from their own gardens or those of friends, and they’re Slow Food celebs, making all of their food with intent and purpose.
California-Italian with occasional nods to the South — but depends heavily on local, seasonal produce.
The wine list leans toward many affordable, rising star local wines that you won’t find elsewhere. There’s also a full bar with creative cocktails (yes, some actually have bacon as a starring flavor) along with a late-night scene until 11p.m. Brunch is spectacular.
Think you’ve seen Duskie before? Yep, she’s been on several Food Network shows.
Zazu Restaurant + Farm, 6770 McKinley St. in the Barlow, Sebastopol. Open M, W, TH for dinner, Friday and Saturday for lunch and dinner and Sunday from 9a.m. to 9 p.m. Closed Tuesday. 707-523-4814, online at zazukitchen.com.

Girl and the Fig | Sonoma

March 2009

By biteclub

Just off the Sonoma town square, Sondra Bernstein’s sunny bistro marries the best of country French and fresh California flavors.
In addition to figs (which you’ll find on both the menu and in a must-try collection of bottled compotes), don’t miss the
cheese course, mussels, the signature arugula and goat cheese salad, selection of Rhone-only wines or secluded outdoor patio.
A Wine Country classic, perennial Michelin and Zagat favorite and BiteClub Top 25.
110 West Spain Street, Sonoma, CA 95476, (707) 938-3634. Open 11:30 am – 10:00 pm daily, late night brasserie menu til 11pm Fri-Sat
Sondra’s other restaurants in the area include Estate and the fig cafe (in Glen Ellen).

First look: GG’s Earth and Surf

March 2009

By biteclub

CLOSED
I’m looking forward to taking a deeper dive at the newly opened GG’s Earth and Surf in downtown Santa Rosa — the long awaited vegetarian/pescatarian eatery opened by former Lisa Hemenway collaborator Suzan Fleissner.

Fleissner is taking her commitment to local and sustainable foods very seriously, which can make for a challenge when folks want out-of-season strawberries or shrimp to show up on the menu.

The former Worth Our Weight space has been thoughtfully renovated with warm, cheerful touches and sunny decor, though the jury’s still out on the legacy atrium windows that make the space feel like a giant fishbowl.

Fleissner’s menu shows that she’s put some serious time and thought

in. Vegetarian dishes have broad appeal: bean fritters with avocado

cream ($6), a tasty sweet potato soup with curried granola and yogurt

($7) or simple, seasonal salads with warm spinach and lentils.

The

kitchen still seems to be getting its sea legs with the steamed clams

in young garlic broth, which though a bit bland, had potential as a

spring favorite.

Polenta fries are a crispy, hearty alternative

to potatoes, especially with a side of aioli and dishes like Pistachio

Ricotta Pancakes with Fresh Mandarin Ginger Honey ($8) or Chai-spiced

french toast have BiteClub jonesing for a brunch return.

The

warm crab salad with fennel and blood orange ($9) slightly missed the

mark, lacking flavor, though the presentation was spot-on. I’ll chalk

it up to opening jitters.

Kitchen and service are still working

out kinks, but there’s a desire to please that’s palpable. The

restaurant will be open for lunch (M,W,Th,F), dinner (closed Tuesday)

and Sunday brunch. Gluten-free and vegan diners will find an

accommodating environment.

It’s refreshing to find a commitment

to seafood and vegetarian dishes with such broad appeal and mastery in

the kitchen. Though there’s still fine tuning to be done when it comes

to seasoning and timing, GG’s should be a welcome addition to the

downtown dining scene.

GG’s Earth and Surf Restaurant, 630 3rd St., Santa Rosa, 528.1445.

Mondavi cancels Taste3

March 2009

By biteclub

It’s not a huge surprise, but a disappointment nonetheless, that COPIA’s signature annual event, TASTE3, has been canceled for 2009. It’s hard to express just what a bummer this is…but BiteClub’s been on the guest list the last two years and this convergence of writers, journalists, foodies, chefs, scientists, farmers and artists was one of the most fascinating and worthwhile culinary events of the year.

From today’s press release…

Due to the unfortunate nexus of the unprecedented economic downturn and the closing of our venue, Copia, Robert Mondavi Winery has decided to take a one year hiatus from Taste³. The quality of the event is our number one priority and given these unforeseen circumstances, we believe that postponing the next Taste³ to early summer 2010 will allow us the best opportunity not only to secure the right venue but also to build the critical level of sponsor and sales support that makes Taste³ possible.

Organizers hope to get Taste3 back on track in 2010. Here’s to a brighter tomorrow.