Rosso Mozzarella Bar

By biteclub
Burrata at Rosso Pizzeria and Wine bar

Burrata at Rosso Pizzeria and Wine bar
Rosso Pizzeria and Wine Bar’s John Franchetti is something of a mozzarella guru.

Since opening the restaurant, he’s become legendary for the creamy, freshly pulled cheese served daily at the pizzeria and at various farm stands around the county. He teaches classes at Relish Culinary (see upcoming classes)on the art of curd pulling, as well as making this creamy Italian cheese (which is harder to make than you might think).

In preparation for the opening of the cheese-focused Rosso Pizzeria that will soon open in Petaluma, the Santa Rosa outpost has added Mozzarella Bar to the menu, featuring the cheese in it’s many forms: as the cream-centered burrata, stuffed with goat curd, as stracciatella (shreds of mozzarella) or shaved on bruschette.

Heaven in dairy form.

Rosso Pizzeria + Wine Bar:53 Montgomery Dr, Santa Rosa, 544-3221

 

WiFi, Wine, & Jazz On The Plaza

By biteclub

You know those tools at your local coffee shop, the ones that holler into their iPhones while holding court at that prime table over by the window, and generally behave as if the place is a private office? Well, hopefully I’m not one of them, because, surely, I’m not without sin. The thing of it is, I work out of a home office, and that turns island fever into an occupational hazard; it’s a matter of when, not if, I meander inexorably toward the nearest watering hole for the vaguely self-employed, in search of caffeine and a free WiFi connection, entangled by their gravitational clutch like a planetary body in search of its sun…

I live in Healdsburg, where you can count the freebie hotspots on one hand. Which means, more often than not, when I feel compelled to escape the moronic drone of the talking heads over at CNBC or Fox Business, I end up at the Flying Goat, purveyors of outstanding espresso (which, to the Goat’s undying credit, they serve ristretto by default).

But sometimes, my partners on the East Coast have all gone home, it’s a gorgeous Sunday afternoon in wine country and I’m off the clock, or for whatever set of reasons I’m just plain done, and what I really want is a sip of some tasty wine to wash down my Internet addiction, and that’s when I head down the block to to the Vintage Wine Estates tasting room, home to cozy couches, fast and free WiFi, a particularly smoking-hot Chardonnay from Sonoma Coast Vineyards, and – on the second Sunday of every month – sweet jazz from guys like local guitar wizard, Christian Foley-Beining. In fact, now that I mention it, I’ll be there next Sunday, so come on by and dig it.


Rendez Vous Bistro | Santa Rosa

By biteclub
Steak Frites at Rendez Vous Bistro in Santa Rosa

 

Steak Frites at Rendez Vous Bistro in Santa Rosa

Restaurant redemptions are rarer than a $2 steak. Which makes discovery all the sweeter.

In its first eighteen months, Santa Rosa’s Rendez Vous Bistro (which opened in March of 2009) was the source of significant Net chatter –– some quite unflattering. Despite a major interior revamp, the restaurant publicly struggled with uneven service and an inconsistent kitchen. Owner Nino Rabbaa, who sunk much of his own wealth into the venture, persevered at the central Santa Rosa location bolstered by a convenient location, a large and sunny outdoor space, a vibrant bar scene and a serviceable if not impressive food.

Earlier this year things began to turn around with the hiring of Chef de Cuisine Matthew Karson, a Santa Rosa native (and SRJC culinary grad) who spent time in the haute SF kitchen of Aqua and several local restaurant restaurants before landing at Rendez Vous. Bringing youthful ambition and high-end French technique to Rabbaa’s bistro classics, the two seem to have finally cracked the code. The menu is now approachable enough for workaday lunchers but with enough carefully-tuned details to impress the dining out crowd.

“Like a fine wine, with age we get better,” said Rabbaa, who plans to open a second eatery, a high end burgery in Santa Rosa this summer.

Though there are still missteps (desserts never quite hit the mark and when Karson isn’t in the kitchen, it can show), the restaurant seems to have found solid footing to build on. With a crowded playing field of top-notch French bistros in Sonoma County, the bar is set high. But if Rendez Vous can continue to match friendly service, kitchen talent and well-priced Parisian fare in its highly-trafficked downtown space, BiteClub can honestly say: Restaurant redeemed.

 

Foie Gras at Rendez Vous Bistro
Foie Gras at Rendez Vous Bistro

What to Eat
Dip Your Toe: BiteClub’s first foray back was Rendez Vous’ weeknight prix-fixe dinner served Monday through Thursday from 5-9:30. Three solid courses included a classic beef-broth French Onion Soup, meltingly delicious wine-braised Beef Bourguignon with creamed potatoes and haricots verts and a mini Crepe Suzette. Impressively plated and generously portioned, it was a meal that made me rethink the restaurant.

Small Bites: Happy Hour and late night, Rendez Vous serves up bar bites well into the night including truffled pommes frites, a petite tuna tartar, polenta fries, and sliders. Plus, a nifty specialty cocktail menu with gimlets, mojitos, and margaritas from $7 to $9. Sunday through Thursday 3-6pm and 9-12am; Friday and Saturday, 3-6pm, 10pm to 2am.

Go For It: Kobe Beef Steak Frites ($24.25) is a lush strip of Snake River steak, truffled butter and celery root slaw with crispy fries. Liberty Farms Duck Confit is one of the most ambitious and delicious dishes, with crispy skin, white beans and shaved fennel ($18.50); Tuna Tartare ($14.50) has gone through a number of evolutions, including pear, almonds and other flavors, but might best be left to let the fish speak for itself; Pan-Seared Sustainable Salmon ($19.50) shows off artichoke frites, melted leeks and smoked tomato foam (a Karson favorite); Seared Sonoma Foie Gras: Lush, indulgent with dried cherries and watercress, along with a Champagne gastrique ($16.50)

 

Duck confit at Rendez Vous Bistro

Crepes: Sweet or savory, Rabbaa has definite ideas about how a crepe should be — slightly crispy and not made with buckwheat flour. Loaded with fillings, they’re a slightly more American-friendly version made with white flour. Savories include duck confit with béchamel; ham, Gruyere and spinach with a fried egg, shredded chicken with olive tapenade and mushroom with Mornay and white truffle oil. Sweet Suzette’s are solid, if slightly sweet, but I have to question the “Aurelie” a frozen crepe filled with Oreo cookies and ice cream — mon dieu.

Aioli: I’ve told the story a thousand times, but it bears repeating. On one of the first nights of Rendez Vous opening, I asked for aioli with my fries (notch) and was given a ramekin of olive oil with garlic in it by a confused waiter. Not cool at a French bistro. The restaurant now has three different types of aioli: Plain, basil and white truffle.

Rendez Vous Bistro: 614 4th St., Santa Rosa, 526-7700.

> MORE FRENCH RESTAURANTS

Mother’s Day 2011

By biteclub

Take it from someone who knows: The best gift for a hard-working mother is a meal she doesn’t have to make. Want to really make her heart sing? Clean up after yourself, too.

Mother’s Day (which is Sunday, May 8, in case you forgot), is the one day each year we moms get a pass to put up our feet, be showered with affection and appreciated for all we do. We accept with equal gratitude tissue flowers and finger-painted masterpieces as well as wildflower bouquets, cards and hug coupons.

But for the lady who serves up breakfast, lunch and dinner without fail day after day, a reprieve from the kitchen is worth its weight in gold. So if you’re searching for the perfect idea, even last minute, there’s still hope for the lollygaggers and late-comers among you.

Shower her with Flowers: Luther Burbank Home & Gardens
From petunias to tomatoes, a variety of perennials, herbs, annuals and veggies are on sale from $2 to $9, along with a free corsage. Propagated from the historic gardens of this horticultural landmark, these starts have serious green-thumb cache for backyard gardeners. 204 Santa Rosa Ave, Santa Rosa, 524-5445.

Where to eat nearby: Bliss Bakery (gluten-free goodies, 463 Sebastopol Avenue
Santa Rosa, 542-6000),  Taqueria Las Palmas (spice up mom’s day, 415 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, 546-3091); Dierk’s Parkside Café (404 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, 573-5955), Rendez Vous Bistro (10am to 8pm, kids under 10 eat free, $5 mimosas, 614 4th Street Santa Rosa, 526-7700).

Head To The Country: Get a little fresh air on a drive through West County, destination unknown.
On your way, Lynmar Estate Winery is offering moms a taste of their new rose release paired with Meyer lemon pound cake and strawberries (the dessert is free for moms, $10 for everyone else, 3909 Frei Road, Sebastopol, 829-3374.)  On the way, stop for a to-dip into the cool Russian River, a stroll through the Sunday farm market in downtown Sebastopol and end the day with a slice of pie from Mom’s Apple Pie (4550 Gravenstein Highway North Sebastopol, CA 95472-2240 – (707) 823-8330). Stroll with mom along the beautiful West County Trail (you can park behind the old Graton Fire Station, but watch for bikes while walking!)

Where to eat nearby:  Zazu Restaurant & Farm: $37 per person, kids under 12 half price. 9am to 3pm, 3535 Guerneville Road, Santa Rosa, 523-4814; Henweigh Café ($16.95 Mom’s Day Brunch 9:30am to 2pm, 4550 Gravenstein Hwy North, Sebastopol 829-7500, ; Sarah’s Forestville Kitchen (cash only, but great southern-inspired favorites and a kid-friendly patio, 6566 Front St., Forestville, 887-1055). Willow Wood Market and Café, 9020 Graton Rd., Graton, 823-0233.

Valley Venture: Sonoma Valley reminds us all why we live here…the views, the hills, the farms and of course, the wine
Both Sugarloaf Ridge State Park and Jack London State Park have mild to adventurous hikes to work up mom’s appetite. Afterwards, stop in for a wine tasting along Highway 12 (Chateau St. Jean and Landmark are particularly mom-friendly) or a biodynamic vineyard and cave tour at Benziger Winery.  In Glen Ellen, the Red Barn Store is a hidden gem with Martha Stewart-perfect wreaths and flowers along with herbs and vegetables from the coveted Oak Hill Farm. (10am to 6pm Wed through Sunday, 15101 Sonoma Hwy)

Where to eat nearby:  Big 3 Diner (18140 Hwy, 12, Sonoma, 939-2410); girl and the fig, 110 W. Spain St., Sonoma, 938-3634;  Red Grape Pizza, 529 1st Street West, Sonoma, 996-4103); Epicurean Connection (grab and go sandwiches, cheeses, fresh salads and picnic fare, 18812 Sonoma Hyw, Sonoma).

Grab a Picnic and Go: 
Seems like pretty much everyone has the same idea on warm, sunny days – head to the park.
Be prepared to jockey for parking and be sure to bring a blanket to sit on, as picnic tables are at a premium. But if you’re headed park side, make sure to stock up with plenty of yummy picnic fare beforehand. Many wineries are happy to have picnickers, but it’s usually necessary to purchase a bottle of wine beforehand.
– Dry Creek General Store, 3495 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 433-4171
– Fresh By Lisa Hemenway: 5755 Mountain Hawk, Santa Rosa, 595-1048.
– Oakville Grocery: 124 Matheson Street, Healdsburg, 433-3200
– Andy’s Produce: 1691 Gravenstein Highway North, Sebastopol, 823-8661
– Glen Ellen Village Market: 13751 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen, 996-6728.

Breakfast in Bed: Don’t worry if you can’t boil water. There are plenty of local bakeries who’ll let you take all the credit.
–    Downtown Bakery and Creamery: Best sticky buns in the world. 308 A Center St., Healdsburg, 431-2719.
–    Village Bakery: 1445 Town and Country Drive, Santa Rosa, 527-7654
–    Blue Label at the Belvedere: 727 Mendocino Ave, Santa Rosa, 542-8705.
–    Bovine Bakery: 23 Kentucky Street, Petaluma, 789-9556
–    Café des Croissants: 2444 Lomitas Avenue, Santa Rosa, 544-6710, also Montgomery Village and Oakmont.
–    Donut Hut: 555 Healdsburg Avenue, Santa Rosa, 544-2085.

Life’s Short, Eat More Waffles

By biteclub

Waffles want for cured pork like my kids want for soap: as undeniably sweet and delicious as they may be au naturelle, they’re immeasurably improved by the right sort of garnish. I say this with some confidence, not only because I know what my kids smell like after they’ve talked me out of one too many baths in a row, but because none other than than Sonoma County’s own Prince and Princess of Pork, and the High Priestess of BiteClub herself, have a publicized habit of serving up bacon-in-the-batter waffles for brunch. And since we here in the Proximal Kitchen remain firmly entrenched in the “if some is good, more is better” camp, I got to thinking: what other salty bits of Wilbur might flatter the sweetness of the all-American waffle?

We could split hairs over whether it’s the added crunch or hint of smoke that makes bacon such a loving plate-mate to a waffle but, for me, the drool-worthy duo has its roots in the  vaguely trashy, salty-sweet, unapologetically guilty pleasure of breakfast meat slathered in syrup; indeed, it’s hard for me to think of a form of pork, particularly but by no means exclusively of the cured variety, that wouldn’t play nice with the nutty, honeyed richness of the sap of the sugar maple… and, given that, why stop at bacon-in-the-batter?

Life has taught me that, given a chance, luck almost always betters skill, at least in the short run, and thus it was pure happenstance that we had a slug of Palacios Chorizo Picante lying about. I love chorizo made in the classic Spanish style, dry cured with loads of smoky paprika and garlic, with just the right amount of heat and a dense, chewy texture that I thought would hold its ground against the steamy interior of a waffle in situ.

As long as we’re on the salty-sweet-breakfast train, why not make the batter with cornmeal, because what’s better with honey and butter than a golden brown crusty wedge of griddled cornbread? And finally, because it’s almost always better to regret something you’ve done than something you haven’t, let’s gild the lily with a fat handful of tangy goat’s milk cheddar from local fave Redwood Hill Farm, because goat’s milk cheeses kick ass with with smoky sausage and cornbread, because cheese bubbling and frying in a waffle iron makes for a sinful crunch along the pasty’s leading edge, and because my kids have even milked the goats…

Chorizo-Cheddar Cornmeal Waffles

Note: Like all pancake-style batters, you can make it at the last minute, but it will be far better if it rests. Particularly if you like a courser grind of cornmeal, the extra resting time gives the grain time to soak up the liquid; we will often do it the night before and rest in the fridge to simplify and speed up a hangover/kiddie cure in the AM – just be sure to tell the kids to take it out an hour before they get you up.

1 cup all-purpose flour + 1 cup medium-grind cornmeal
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tsp baking soda
1 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
3 really fresh eggs, beaten (preferably from a local farmer like Rian at Wyeth Acres)
1/4 cup melted butter, cooled, plus a little extra to grease the iron
2 cups milk
1 cup grated sharp cheddar (preferably from Sonoma County goats!)
1 cup small-dice dry cured chorizo sausage (you can find Palacios at Traverso’s in SR and The Cheese Shop in Healdsburg)

Method
Set up your waffle iron around medium high. Don’t forget a spritz of oil. Melt butter, set aside. Beat milk and eggs together, set aside. (See ahead-of-time note on resting batter, above.)

Sift together dry ingredients in a large bowl (don’t try to sift the cornmeal – mix that in after). Pour wet mixture into dry and combine with a few brisk strokes – don’t overwork it. Incorporate diced chorizo and grated cheese in to the batter.

Ladle enough batter (it’s impossible to say – depends on the size of your iron) to just fill the bottom tray and barely cover the ‘studs’ of the iron. Cook until steam slows from the iron and the waffles are crisp and golden-brown; probably 5 minutes, or thereabouts. (You can test one square first if you’re not sure – and better to wait too long, lest you wreck the iron.)

Serve immediately with butter and maple syrup. Ideally, make a compound butter out of goat’s milk butter and dark syrup in advance, cut into discs, and serve on top.

If you want a really hearty meal, a gently fried egg makes a great side.

 

Farmstand meets food trucks meets tomatoes: Kendall Jackson

By biteclub

Kendall Jackson Wine Center kicks off their summertime farm stand with a massive heirloom tomato seed sale, estate produce market, artisan cheese tasting and food truck extravaganza this Saturday, May 7, 2011.  Consider it a one-stop-shop for just about every hot food trend happening this spring.

For greenthumbs: The extensive Kendall-Jackson culinary gardens are a tomato lovers’ paradise, harvesting nearly dozens of different varieties of heirlooms on their own property and hosting the annual Heirloom Tomato Festival each fall. For backyard gardeners, they’ll be selling more than 100 varieties of seeds and starts at Saturday’s event. They’ll go fast, so get there early.

For cheeseheads: K-J’s own curd nerd Tracey Shepos (formerly of Stark’s) will be sampling and selling local artisan cheeses as well as hosting cheesemaker Sheana Davis (Delice de la Vallee, Epicurean Connection) as the first featured cheesemaker.

For food truckers: The local mobile kitchens many of us came to know and love (and ultimately lose in downtown Santa Rosa) have been booked non-stop around Sonoma County, most recently getting a gig at the K-J market. Expect to see the usual suspect: Fork, Karma, Street-Eatz, Dim Sum Charlie’s and Chicago Style Hot Dogs on the 7th.

For loafers: Bakers Eric Frischkorn and Brandii Magliulo are bread and pastry whiz-kids who’ll be up at the crack of dawn to bake up fresh and yeasty goodies for the market.

For the fruit and veg crowd: Early season estate grown goodies including favas, lettuces, spinach, beets, carrots and frisee.

The Details: Saturday, May 7, 2011
Where: Kendall-Jackson Wine Center, 5007 Fulton Road, Fulton, California (directions)
Farm Stand: 10am – 1pm
Plant Sale : 10am – 5pm (B.Y.O.B. – Bring your box / bag for packing your tomato plants.)
Food Trucks: 11am – 2pm

Missed this event? The farm stand will be held the first Saturday of each month from May through October (excluding September).

Josef Keller: A Chef’s Second Act

By biteclub

Walking around his new kitchen, arms folded over a navy sweater vest, Chef Josef Keller sniffs at the air. “Smell that,” he says pointing around the expansive space with his nose. “It smells like a restaurant kitchen.”

More recognizable in a chef’s jacket than his street clothes, the 57-year-old toque is a Santa Rosa culinary fixture, running longtime white tablecloth restaurants La Provence and Josef’s in Santa Rosa. And though he retired from the commercial restaurant business in 2009, there’s no doubt the 30-year restaurant veteran knows what a kitchen should smell like.

“Institutional” is exactly what it shouldn’t smell like, said Keller, who was asked in January 2011 to overhaul the kitchen and menus of one of the largest meal-providers in the county, The Council on Aging’s Meals on Wheels.  The massive institutional food preparation and delivery system provides nearly 1,000 meals a day to senior citizens throughout the county.

Keller’s challenge: Making the practical, nutritional food of Meals on Wheels more, well, palatable. With a local focus on fresh, local foods and an evolving demographic of Baby Boomer seniors joining the donation-based food delivery program, the organization wanted its meals to be more than just sustenance. That meant cost-efficient, but good quality food with more eye appeal.

In other words, food that looked and smelled like it came from a restaurant kitchen rather than an industrial one.

“Institutional food doesn’t have to taste bad,” Keller said.  Walking into the massive food prep and storage hangar that also serves as the county’s central emergency kitchen, the first thing he noticed when he came to the kitchen in January was vats of boiled meat.

“They had this huge skillet, and they just used to overcook everything in boiling water,” he said with a sigh. “And the recipes were old. There were no spices. That isn’t how we do it in a restaurant,” said Keller.  Working with the staff dietitians, the French-trained chef incorporated braising, sauteing and low-sodium spices like ginger and mustard to add flavor to the meals.

Derby Days is Meals on Wheels’ biggest fundraiser of the year, held this year on May 7, 2011 at Sonoma-Cutrer Winery. The gala event features a four-course gourmet luncheon prepared by French Garden Executive Chef Patrick Quillec, Doug Richey of Santi, Dustin Valette of Dry Creek Kitchen, Josh Ash & Co pastry chef Casey Stone and Chef Josef Keller. A live auction is hosted by KZST’s Brent Farris. For more details, councilonaging.org.

“I told them, ‘As long as you use my name, you have to cook the way I want,’” said Keller.

On the menu now are dishes like chicken curry with basmati rice with pineapple; chicken Marsala with whole wheat pasta, Beef Stroganoff with summer squash, pork loin with mustard sauce and seasoned barley or fish with lime and cilantro.  There are also traditional favorites like tuna casserole and turkey meatloaf as well as vegetarian meals. The kitchen also prepares specialized meals for dialysis patients for $5 per meal.

With the improved menu, Keller hopes to expand the program’s reach even further by offering a food delivery service to paying customers – affordable comfort food for caregivers, those just out of the hospital, ill spouses or individuals who otherwise don’t qualify for the Meals on Wheels program.

With a fixed $2.60 food cost per meal, it’s no small challenge to use as much locally sourced and fresh produce as possible; keep meals nutritional and flavorful and on budget (meals cost about $7 to produce) but after years of restaurant experience, Keller seems to have a unique ability to do both.

Keller’s work at the Meals on Wheels kitchen, however, has a short shelf life. Once staff is retrained and menus reworked, he’ll move on to more local projects. “I plan to go to schools and hospitals next,” he said of his passion for transforming industrial cuisine.

“There is just such a need to re-educate people working in the institutional food model,” said the chef.

Keller plans to stay on as permanent spokesman and menu consultant for the Council on Aging. “How could I not? I’m getting love letters for the food now. Really, love letters!” he said.

Shave Your Asparagus

By biteclub

Fresh AsparagusMy kids won’t eat asparagus. I’ve tried everything: slathered in butter; gently steamed; roasted (my favorite), with lots of olive oil and salt; and even, per this week’s post, served simply raw, and dressed so lightly as to be nearly naked. I think it was terrific although, in the final tally, it turned out to be about as productive as a hard 16 in Vegas, the stuff still won’t pass their lips except perforce…

The munchkins claim that it’s because of the well-advertised, if not terribly well-understood, Wee Wee Effect, and that a single bite will permanently dye them an unpleasant shade of green or something, but I’m skeptical; I just think they don’t like to eat green stuff, and the data is on my side.

Be that as it may, asparagus season is rocking right now, and I’m not about to stop cooking the stuff at its seasonal peak – the California crop crests in March, April, and into May – just because the peanut gallery doesn’t care for smelly pee. And that’s a good thing, because asparagus makes for seriously tasty and healthful munchies – the funny-looking little trees come loaded with antioxidants, vitamin K, and folates – and  Americans don’t eat nearly enough of it: per capita annual consumption in the US has leveled off at a rather flaccid 1.5lbs. You may counter that at least we’re weaning ourselves off the noxious canned stuff, and you’d be right, but to put it in context, that 1.5 lbs is what just one of those little bushels you see at the market probably weighs, and works out to a paltry 0.3% of the typical American’s total annual diet of vegetables. Suffice it to say, I’m doing my part to get the numbers up.

I like to taste an ingredient in its most stripped-down form before mauling it over the heat anyway, so in an inexplicable fit of optimism, I wondered if the kids, having rejected all cooked forms of the vegetable, would get on-board with me and consume it raw. I was wrong, but I still like to think of this dish as a gateway drug for the uninitiated: uncooked, nearly unadorned, and shaved like a proper example of personal grooming, it tastes precisely like what it is. The out-of-season tomatoes I get at Whole Foods are tragically if predictably substandard right now, but fine salt and a hint of lemon from the exceptional Da Vero olive oil do wonders for asparagus’s distinctly sulfurous note, and shaving it eliminates the unpleasantly woody texture that raw or undercooked asparagus usually has. That, and it took about 90 seconds to prep.

Shaved Asparagus with Da Vero Meyer Lemon Olive Oil & Sel Gris

Ingredients:

One bunch of fresh California asparagus, preferably organic (try to find a bunch of relatively small and uniform diameter, and with tight, coherent tips); a handful of grape tomatoes; Da Vero Meyer lemon olive oil (any good olive oil will do, but you may then want for a squeeze of lemon); and Sel Gris (or your favorite finishing salt).

Method:

1) Wash the asparagus and cut off and reserve the tips; cut off and discard the dried, wooden ends. Wash the tomatoes.

2) Blanch the asparagus tips for 2-3 minutes (optional, but they’re much better this way, and add a nice variation in flavor and texture to the salad).

3) Set the stalks on a cutting board, hold down the thin end, and use a vegetable peeler to shave them into long, thin strips (I discard the first and last strips, as they are virtually all exterior skin and can be unpleasant to eat raw).

4) Toss the shaved strips and tomatoes in bowl with the olive oil and plenty of the salt (maybe a squeeze of fresh lemon juice, depending). Garnish with tips, if using. You’re done.

 

Tequila + Mezcal Sonoma Style

By biteclub
Tequila Flight at La Rosa in Santa Rosa
Tequila Flight at La Rosa in Santa Rosa
Tequila Flight at La Rosa in Santa Rosa
Tequila Flight at La Rosa in Santa Rosa

Just about everyone has a tequila story, and it usually doesn’t end well. I still have a dent in my forehead that was a direct result of face-planting on a wood deck after 14 shots. Synonymous with spring break, beaches, youthful indiscretions, and the Jersey Shore crew doing doing body shots, it’s gotten a bit of a bad rap.

But as Cinco de Mayo approaches, it’s worth taking a second look at this complex and oft-maligned nectar of the agave plant, along with its cousins Mezcal and Sotol.  Not just for blending in margaritas anymore, well-crafted tequilas can be smooth enough for sipping and sampling straight up with some adult restraint.

Tequila 101
Tequila is a Mexican spirit that, like French champagne, can only be called tequila if it comes from a particular region — usually the state of Jalisco in central Mexico. Within that area are highlands and lowlands where the Blue Weber agave plant grows (the only type used for tequila), each  imparting a unique flavor. Though the spiny shrub looks like a cactus, it is actually a yucca and takes up to 15 years to mature. The plants are harvested, then baked and finally distilled into tequila.

Do you know your blanco from your anejo? Like many spirits, tequila comes in a variety of styles, from unaged blanco (usually called labeled as “silver”) to reposado (rested), anejo (aged) and extra anejo (long-aged).

Experts describe the blanco as the most piquant of the group, the purest expression of the agave plant which goes into steel tanks and never sees oak. Most aged tequilas are put into oak barrels previously used for bourbon for one to five years. The barrels impart oaky, vanilla flavors as well as color.  Anejo is typically aged between six months and a year, giving it a light caramel color and slightly smoother flavor. Aged tequilas can be much darker in color, and get a creamier, oaken quality from the amount of contact they have with the wood.

Not sure where to start? Jose Cuervo is the grocery store brand most of us blend into our margaritas, but aficionados steer toward either smaller production brands, or lesser known brands that offer more value.

A few tequila brands to try:
Values: Oro Azul, Carralejo, Milagro
Mid Range: Partida, 7 Leguas
High End: DelLeon, Don Julio 1942 

Mezcal
A smokier cousin to tequila, mezcal typically comes from the Oaxaca region of Mexico. And yes, its the spirit with the worm in it. In fact, it’s not actually a worm, but the larvae of a moth that likes to feed on agave, it’s sometimes put into a bottle to suggest that alcohol content is high enough to preserve the larvae. Historically it was thought to have magical healing properties.

Unlike tequila, for mezcal, the agave plant is roasted in the ground before distillation, giving the resulting spirit a smoky, earthy quality. Often made in small, artisanal batches (and rarely making it out of the Mexican market), mezcal is finally getting its due as higher quality varieties emerge on the American market.

Sotol
Almost unknown in the US, Sotol is a related spirit commonly from Chihuahua made from a wild agave plant known as Dasylirion or Desert Spoon. Cooked and distilled similarly to mezcal, the flavor tends to be smoother than tequila.

Where to get it locally
La Rosa Tequileria & Grill: The recently-opened cantina in downtown Santa Rosa has about 160 different tequilas. Co-owner Darren Chapple credits growing up in San Diego (just over the border from Tijuana) and his longtime employment in Mexican restaurants with his passion for tequila. “It’s just a growing trend, and is definitely my drinking choice,” he said. He and his staff hand-pick each of the tequilas carried at the restaurant, with a number of rarer, high-end tequilas along with a wide variety of more affordable tequilas. His take on blended margaritas? “We do them, but they’re better on the rocks,” And on salt and lime with a shot?. “It just covers up the flavor,” he said.

Try one of four specialty flights that range between $13 and $27, taking sippers through various regions and agings, along with a high-end tasting of “big dog” tequilas Clase Azula Plata, DeLeon Reposado and Don Julio 1942. The Smokey, a margarita made with both tequila and mezcal ($9) is a favorite as well.

Mezcal Tasting at Traverso’s: On May 5, Traverso’s will host a Mezcal tasting with Del Maguey owner Ron Cooper. One of the most popular brands of Mezcal, Del Maguey bottles small production spirits in remote villages. Each of the bottles bears the name of the village where it is produced. The event takes place from 7-9pm at the Hyatt Vineyard Creek Hotel, reservations are required. Info, (707) 542-2530 or info@traversos.com.

Benesin Mezcal: Santa Rosan Efrain Nolasco, a native of Oaxaca, imports small batch mezcal, which is certified organic. You can find it at liquor retailers in Sonoma County.

Tres Hombres Longbar and Grill: With more than 100 different tequilas, this Petaluma restaurant features a specialized club for serious tequila drinkers and several tequila dinners each year. Members of the club reach various levels by sampling different tequilas, and getting special incentives. 151 Petaluma Blvd. S., Suite 129, Petaluma, 773-4500.

Maya Restaurant: In the heart of downtown Sonoma, this Mexican restaurant offers a temple of tequila with more than 100 specialty tequilas, from the pricy Don Julio to more affordable Patron and Cabo Wabo. 101 E Napa St., Sonoma, 935-3500.

Have a favorite tequila or a local spot (uh, no, not your backyard) you like to sip? Tell us.

The Heirloom Bean Project: Refried

By biteclub

Last week was one of those between-shopping weeks. You know, those annoying periods of Home Ec during which the shelves remain stocked, with at least 50% of whatever it is that you bought last week, but you still can’t figure out dinner? To compound matters, I flatly refuse to buy food right before a holiday, and Spring Break was imminent: a road trip to Santa Cruz, and then to the ballpark. (On a related tangent, and gender politics notwithstanding, the hard reality is that you’re unlikely to see many Giants games when you live 75 miles from the park, in a house chock-a-block with little women, and I’m outnumbered 6 to 1, counting the cats. My point being, keeping my girls happy on the eve of our trip seemed important.)

Scouring the cupboard yielded some 97 boxes of dried pasta, a still-virgin bag of brown rice that my wife optimistically adopted back in the mid-90s, a random assortment of canned goods (tomato paste, tuna, and – inexplicably – haggis), and a handful of options from last month’s Birthday Bean Sampler from Rancho Gordo. I knew I had some leftover tortillas, jalapenos, and cotija cheese in the fridge from an ongoing flirtation with chilaquiles, and I almost always have a few eggs from one of my favorite local chicken ranchers lying about, so I grabbed a bag of dried beans and set out to play a simple riff on huevos rancheros; as the entire country of Mexico has known for generations, eggs, corn, cheese and beans can be combined into complete proteins in almost limitless ways, and breakfast-for-dinner has a storied tradition in our home…

I continue to be astounded by the qualitative difference and depth of flavor that I get out of ancient strains of the deceptively humble legume: cooked simply in water, with plenty of time and a little salt, these under-appreciated if flatulent treats will utterly beguile your perception of what beans are all about. Add a splash of livid chili-pepper green, grate some tangy snow-white cheese, and top it all off with a crazy-fresh egg with a yolk the color of marigolds, and you’ve either got a cheap, healthy, crowd-pleasing family meal, a hangover cure extraordinaire, or – at least in our house – both, for the price of one.

Local Huevos with Refried Heirloom Beans and Jalapeno Oil (4-6 servings)

Ingredients: 1 pack of Corn Tortillas from your favorite local mercado or, failing that, good old Safeway, 1 per plate; 0.5lb of Dried Heirloom Beans (Rio Zapes or Pintos would be classic, but I made this batch with Good Mother Stallards, and we all loved the color and texture); fresh Eggs, 1 per plate; 1C finely grated Cotija Cheese; 1-2 fresh Jalapeno Peppers, seeded and finely chopped; Olive Oil, as needed; 1T minced White Onion; and Salt and Pepper, to taste.

Method:

  1. Soak and cook the beans according to their instructions; drain, reserving 1C of the pot liquor. (This can be done indefinitely far in advance.) Cook the onion in 2T of olive oil (or rendered lard, if you’re a purist; or butter, if you’re French) until soft, add the beans and some pot liquor, and mash and stir until very smooth, adding the liquor as needed to achieve the desired consistency (in addition to a good bean, some patience and a little arm muscle seem to be the key to a proper refried). This will take 15-30 minutes. Adjust seasoning and keep warm.
  2. While the beans are cooking, or in between mashings, puree the jalapeno with enough olive oil in a blender or food processor to turn it into a smooth sauce, seasoning with salt and pepper to taste; I would typically run it through a strainer and just use the infused oil, but that’s totally optional.
  3. When everything else is ready (or in parallel, if you don’t mind moving a bunch of pans at once), gently fry the eggs (they will look much better sunny-side up).
  4. Quickly warm the tortillas, top with the beans, then the cheese, and finally the egg. Garnish the egg with good salt and dress the plate with the jalapeno oil.