Food Porn as Art

Beautiful food, beautifully photographed: Depending upon where you stand on the cultural battlefield, the media we call food porn is either an artist’s glimpse of the otherwise unobtainable, a vicarious bite of somebody else’s meal; or, like a fat forkful of Marie Antoinette’s gateau, a gluttonous invitation to some karmic foodie apocalypse. Is good food fine art, obscene luxury, or moral imperative?

Food porn is a provocative term variously applied to a spectacular visual presentation of cooking or eating that arouses a desire to eat or the glorification of food as a substitute for sex. “Food porn” specifically refers to food photography and styling that presents food glamorously or provocatively. ~Wikipedia

I’m not so sure about the “food as a substitute for sex” bit – really, who wouldn’t choose “both” – but whatever your feelings on the matter, I suspect that we can all agree, if perhaps not admit, that they’re both fun to look at, which is why I’m psyched that Michael Magers Photography agreed to let me share his photografia culinaria with you today:With traditional food from Oaxaca, Brazil, Puerto Rico and more, these restaurants offer a truly global experience. The literal translation of photograph, from the Greek, means “to write in light”. What a wonderful phrase! I harbor no illusions about my capacity for art criticism, but it seems to me that writing in light is what all photographers should aspire to, and what excites me about Mike’s work:  First outpost of popular burger joint opens in Santa RosaWith traditional food from Oaxaca, Brazil, Puerto Rico and more, these local restaurants offer a diverse culinary experience. When people ask me why I write about food, I generally answer that the food itself is incidental, or is at best a parable, and that mainly I just enjoy using language to convey ideas; that I love to cook, and more particularly to eat and drink, simply provides me with a convenient story line, and makes it that much easier to be passionate about writing. I think it’s fair to say that Mike would describe his photography in analogous terms, and largely independent of whether his subject matter happens to be a Michelin-starred plate, a Spanish market, or a New York City landmark:

With traditional food from Oaxaca, Brazil, Puerto Rico and more, these local restaurants offer a diverse culinary experience. You can read about these images, and check out Mike’s work other work, on his website.

Grand Harvest Awards 2011 Announced

(straight up from the press release on this one…)

Santa Rosa, California (March 21, 2011) — Judging for the 2011 Grand Harvest Awards, an international wine competition produced by Vineyard & Winery Management magazine, completed its mission of recognizing outstanding wines from all over the world and simultaneously studying the effects of terroir on wine quality. Celebrating its 21st year, the Grand Harvest Awards was held March 1-2 at Villa Chanticleer, Healdsburg, California. Complete results.

Twenty-two judges evaluated 1,346 entries and awarded a total of 947 medals including 145 gold, 401 silver and 401 bronze. Garnering medals at the Grand Harvest Awards (GHA) is difficult to achieve because of its traditional high standards of excellence.

Most entries in the GHA were grown and produced in the United States and Canada with some originating in New Zealand and Turkey.

“We had great wines from a wide variety of growing regions,” said Bill Traverso, the chairman of the GHA and the director of wine competitions at Vineyard & Winery Management. “Producers in regions such as Lake Erie, the Finger Lakes, Virginia and Canada are finding out which grapes perform best under their unique growing conditions.”

James Beard Restaurant + Chef Semifinalists 2011

Wine Country chefs tapped in food "Oscar" semifinalsFew big surprises in today’s Restaurant + Chef Semifinalist announcements for the James Beard Foundation Awards for 2011. Winners will be announced at an event in May — the food and wine industry’s biggest night for collective back-patting.

The Rising Chef category is one of the few that showcases new talent, and Wine Country’s Perry Hoffman of etoile at Domanine Chandon and Aaron London of Ubuntu in Napa both got nods.

Here are some of the other local nominees. Here is a list of all restaurant and chef semifinalists…

Outstanding Wine and Spirits Professional
Merry Edwards, Merry Edwards Winery, Sebastopol, CA
Ted Lemon, Littorai Wines, Sebastopol, CA

Outstanding Wine Service
La Toque, Napa, CA, Ken Frank and Scott Tracy

Rising Star Chef of the Year
Perry Hoffman, étoile Restaurant at Domaine Chandon, Yountville, CA
Aaron London, Ubuntu, Napa, CA

Best Chef Pacific
Josef Centeno, Lazy Ox Canteen, Los Angeles
Kevin Chong, Chef Mavro, Honolulu
Michael Cimarusti, Providence, Los Angeles
Josiah Citrin, Mélisse, Santa Monica, CA
Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook, Animal, Los Angeles
Laurence Jossel, Nopa, San Francisco
Loretta Keller, COCO500, San Francisco
Andrew Kirschner, Wilshire, Santa Monica, CA
Chris Kobayashi, Artisan, Paso Robles, CA
Christopher Kostow, The Restaurant at Meadowood, St. Helena, CA
Mourad Lahlou, Aziza, San Francisco
Corey Lee, Benu, San Francisco
Daniel Patterson, COI, San Francisco
Gayle Pirie and John Clark, Foreign Cinema, San Francisco
Laurent Quenioux, Bistro LQ, Los Angeles
Richard Reddington, Redd, Yountville, CA
Carl Schroeder, Market, Del Mar, CA
John Rivera Sedlar, Rivera, Los Angeles
James Syhabout, Commis, Oakland, CA
Michael Tusk, Quince, San Francisco

Starbuck to buy Peet’s Coffee?

According to a number of published reports, Starbucks may soon acquire Peet’s Coffee, a much loved Bay Area-based coffee chain.

This isn’t necessarily good news for Sonoma County’s java-set. In fact, you can pretty much cause an all out fist fight by claiming allegiance to one or another, around these parts. Sure, we love our Thanksgiving, Ecco and Flying Goat, but there are also those times when you just need a fix.

What’s your take on all the hubub? Does it ruin your day, or is it just another merger? Sound off…

[polldaddy poll=4742845]

Panera Bread to Santa Rosa

National pastry and sandwich bakery Panera Bread is slated to open in Santa Rosa, according to several sources. An online hiring posting for an SR outpost showed up on the Interwebs, and local restaurant real estate folks are confirming rumors about the opening.

Though there are no solid confirmations yet, the buzz is that it may be going into the CVS shopping area on Mendocino Ave., close to all the other recent restaurant chain hubbub — Five Guys, In N Out and Whole Foods Coddingtown.

Are chain entries into the local restaurant market news? You tell me…

Stay tuned for more details.

Madrona Manor | Ideas in Food Dinner

Shaved Shrimp at Madrona Manor
Shaved Shrimp at Madrona Manor

Madrona Manor’s Executive Chef Jesse Mallgren has long dabbled in the world of forward-thinking culinary techniques popularly described as “molecular gastronomy.” And though most chefs now bristle at the term, it refers to a sort of laboratory approach to foods, breaking them down into their most basic elements or flavors, creating surprising methods of delivery or using unconventional cooking methods to create wildly creative dishes. Tools of the trade range from whipped creamers and blow torches to liquid nitrogen, gelatins, powders and foam. Its pioneers (Grant Achatz of Alinea, Ferran Adria of El Bulli) are some of the most celebrated chefs in the world. (Both also have books out this month…)

One of the pied pipers of this cooking style is H. Alexander Talbot of Ideas in Food. The East Coast chef, along with his wife Aki Kamozawa run a culinary consulting business that trains chefs on how to use modern ingredients, equipment and innovative approaches to food. The couple spent several days at Madrona Manor demonstrating transglutimates, liquid nitrogen, CO2 and other cutting edge kitchen wizardry. As a final demonstration, Talbot created a guest dinner at the restaurant.

On the menu 3/16/11…
– Scrambled egg mousse with Blis brook trout roe, melon and cucumber
– Medai with grilled fish bone oil, Eureka lemon leaf, salad burnet
– Shaved Shrimp with charred jalapeno and bolting cilantro (using Activa as a binder)
– Uni Tortellini with yuzu kosho and Dungeness crab
– Local black cod with chicory, squash banana and watermelon radish
– Sonoma lamb loin and tongue with carrot peanut butter and oxalis
– Cashew Butter Bavaroise with sugared crouton, huckleberry, white chocolate, toffee ice cream

Check out the pictures below…

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Healdsburg closure, opening

News from the Hburg front…

A Divine Affair has closed. Owner Kahleen Nowak’s eclectic downtown Healdsburg restaurant shuttered March 11. Nowak isn’t publicly saying why the restaurant closed, but insiders say the 100-year-old building had caused some inherent space and noise challenges for the eatery. The chef/owner is looking into the possibility of a new venture elsewhere in Sonoma County.

Santa Rosa’s Sizzling Tandoor is expanding to Healdsburg. The second location for the restaurant has just been inked off plaza, near Osake. It will no doubt be a welcome addition to the region, considering the dearth of Indian eateries north of Santa Rosa.

French Garden | Sebastopol

Beet salad with goat cheese and microgreens at The French Garden
Beet salad with goat cheese and microgreens at The French Garden
Beet salad with goat cheese and microgreens at The French Garden

CLOSED
Since 2006, Dan Smith has been on an often Quixotic quest to turn his sprawling Sebastopol eatery, The French Garden, into a Michelin-starred destination restaurant.

With it’s own 30-acre bio-intensive farm, Smith’s ample financial backing and a dedicated local following, it’s always had potential for greatness. Its Achiles heel:  The kitchen. A series of top-notch chefs have debuted impressive menus at FG, only to exit – sometimes within months – leaving kitchen staff scrambling. Departures have been so notable and so frequent that one recent toque was simply called Quince (or Fifteen in Spanish) in reference to the fallen chefs preceding him. He too, is now gone. Suffice to say Smith is as exacting with his kitchen as he is with his farm.

Undaunted by the turnover, Smith has soldiered forth, staunchly believing in the restaurant after many gave up on it. His patience, however, may finally be rewarded.

Current chef Patrick Quillec took over the kitchen in the summer of 2010. Like many of his predecessors, Quillec is a French chef both by birth and by trade. Hailing from a restaurant family from Brittany, he trained with several Parisian chefs and is a successful restaurateur in his own right, having opened a number of French bistros and cafes in the United States. Most importantly, he seems to get Smith’s vision for a true farm-to-table experience. Because having your own personal restaurant farm is great, but only if you know how to use it.

Lunch is classic bistro fare, impeccably executed: Charcuterie, daily soups, escargot, frites with lemon aioli, Salade Lyonnaise ($11), quiche, Coquilles Saint Jacques (scallops in cream sauce, $15), steak frites, burgers, Croque Monseiur and daily crepes. Up to six daily vegetables from the farm are featured as side dishes (chard, parsnip tempura, squash, or whatever is in season, $7 each). Flavors are light and bright, and presentation shows the kind of precision Quillec has in the kitchen and his fondness for Smith’s pristine produce. Little details, like warm bread served with honey butter (the honey is from the farm) add serious cred.

Coquille St. Jacques at French Garden
Coquille St. Jacques at French Garden

The evening dining room is a more upscale affair, though many of the dishes are the same, with the addition of a few heartier entrees — lamb shank, chicken breast and pork. Not everything hits the mark, but classic preparations including duck breast with lentils ($14) and whitefish in beurre blanc with risotto, French onion soup ($9) and squash and Boursin ravioli with crab and chanterelles ($15) are stunners. Seasonal desserts tart tatin with salted caramel sauce and creme fraiche ice cream or lemon tarts are equally impressive.

For more casual neighborhood dining, the bistro has upped its game with a hip cocktail menu, $4 happy hour tapas (tuna tartare tacos, hangar steak sliders), and a la carte dinner items served in the bar. On Sunday, the brunch menu ranges from apple crepes  ($7) and eggs Benedict to burgers, leek soup and and brioche french toast ($10) with the added benefit of their own farm market stand outside. The outdoor patio can’t be beat on warm spring and summer days and frequent live music acts add to the ambiance.

Nine months in, it seems safe to say that Chef Quillec’s may finally bring Smith’s epic quest to a close, windmills conquered with a fork and knife — and on track for the critical success The French Garden always has been capable of achieving.


French Garden Restaurant, 8050 Bodega Ave, Sebastopol, 824-2030. Open Wednesday through Saturday 11:30am to 2;30pm, dinner 5-9:30pm. Full bar and bistro from 4:30, happy hour 4:30 to 6:30pm. Sunday brunch and farm market, 10am to 2pm. Children’s menus available.

Pasta, with a Handful of Herbs

“…with a handful of herbs.” I love that. Even if the dish weren’t so simple and delicious, even if it didn’t leave my wife starry-eyed with carbohydrate lust, I’d cook this pasta just to call it by name; that, and the devil-may-care pleasure of a recipe defined, not by cups or teaspoons, but by the size of one’s hand. Want the recipe? Here it is: Grab a handful of whatever herbs happen to be growing in the garden, toast two handfuls of breadcrumbs, and sweat a handful shallots and garlic:

Say goodbye to stuffy ballrooms, powerpoint presentations and rubber chicken lunches, there’s a new kind of conference in town.Now choose a nice pasta – I particularly like the way penne and orecchiete cup the sauce – and cook til just al dente, toss the lot of it together, and serve it with some freshly grated cheese; parmigiano would be unimpeachable, although I might suggest a good pecorino instead, for its salty barnyard tang, and how that stands up to the pungency of raw herbs and the richness of buttery breadcrumbs and shallots. And that is it.

Say goodbye to stuffy ballrooms, PowerPoint presentations and rubber chicken lunches, there’s a new kind of conference in town.The size of your hand, the mixture of herbs, the type of bread, and the shape of the pasta will all influence the final product, but the beauty of this recipe is that it will almost always be good – I’ve tried to screw it up, and it’s not easy. The main thing is to strike a balance between sweeter herbs like tarragon and basil, stronger, more peppery herbs like rosemary or thyme, and the gentle bite of a green onion or chive. If at all possible, make your own breadcrumbs from a good, crusty sourdough, although I’ve used panko from a box with unqualified success. Ultimately, there are lots of ways to get it right, and very few not to.

The chef who taught me this particular version describes it as classic Italian peasant food, although I’ve never seen it on a menu or in a cookbook; probably, it’s a regional or even family-specific riff on pasta al grantatto, a fairly generic catch-all for “noodles with breadcrumbs”, and Italian Kryptonite for Atkins dieters. But whereas most al grantatto recipes include some form of seafood, this one depends mainly on the aromatics of fresh herbs, and varies naturally with the seasons, which seems especially nice.

Pasta with a Handful of Garden Herbs & Breadcrumbs (adapted from G. Sarnataro)
1 lb/500g best quality dry pasta, ideally penne rigate
1 large handful of mixed fresh herbs (lots of basil or parsley; some chives or green onions; and thyme, tarragon, or rosemary, more sparingly), chopped
1-2 garlic cloves, finely sliced (optional)
1 palm’s worth of finely chopped shallots (about 4 large or 6 smaller ones; or a medium onion, if shallots are unavailable)
2 large handfuls of fresh breadcrumbs, pulsed in a food processor (about 2 cups; substitute panko if necessary)
Butter, olive oil, salt, and pepper – as needed
Hard cheese, grated, for serving
  1. Sautee the shallots and garlic in olive oil until soft and sweetly fragrant; remove from pan and reserve.
  2. Melt a knob of butter in the same pan and gently toast the breadcrumbs until golden brown and lightly crunchy; remove from pan and reserve.
  3. After they’ve cooled (you don’t want to cook the herbs), combine the breadcrumbs, shallot mixture, and herbs in a bowl, toss with olive oil and season relatively aggressively with salt and a little pepper.
  4. Boil a large pot of salted water, cook the pasta until just al dente, and drain in a colander. Toss the pasta with the herb mixture, check the seasoning, and serve with a grated hard cheese.

Benefits for Japan

Chef Douglas Keane of Cyrus, HBG and Shimo Modern Steak has long been tied with the people and cuisine of Japan. He’ll host a series of events to aid the victims of the earthquakes in a variety of price points — so there’s no excuse for not opening up your wallet.

HBG, 3/29: Karaoke night from 7-10pm, $20. Beer wine, snacks and singing.
Shimo Modern Steak, 4/4: Several Hburg chefs gather at the restaurant, each serving a dis. $40, 6-9pm
Cyrus, 4/19: Mega star chefs David Kinch, Corey Lee, James Syhabout, Michael Cimarusti, Nicole Plue and Keane create a multi-course tasting menu. $450, limited to 50 people.

Here are some other Bay Area benefits posted by Inside Scoop SF.

Know of other local benefits for the earthquake victims? Let us know…