A Sweet Farm Wedding in Sonoma Features Lots of Flowers and a Celebrity Sheep

Living in Berkeley, Madeline and Matt fell in love with the idea of escaping to the country for their wedding. The couple celebrated their nuptials at Beltane Ranch. (Paul Gargagliano, Hazel Photo)

“Wally is always trying to steal my thunder,” says Madeline Johnson.

She’s talking about her wedding day, so you’d think maybe Wally is her husband. But no, Wally the Wooly Weeder is the celebrity sheep who greets guests at Glen Ellen’s Beltane Ranch, where Madeline Johnson and Matt Secrest tied the knot this past June. “It was an explosion of flowers, of color, and there were chickens running around, and that’s all I ever wanted,” says Madeline.

Madeline and Wally the Wooly Weeder. (Paul Gargagliano, Hazel Photo)
Madeline and Matt at Beltane Ranch. (Paul Gargagliano, Hazel Photo)

Living in Berkeley, the two fell in love with the idea of escaping to the country for their wedding. “It’s a food mecca,” explains Matt, an epidemiologist.

At their ceremony, they sang a song that Matt wrote and exchanged vows under a giant oak tree in front of 110 guests decked out in vibrant, flowery dresses and pastel suits. Their wedding cake was in the shape of a big, plump chicken. And to make guests feel at home, the dress code listed on their wedding website was: “Whatever you can chase chickens in.”

The wedding cake was in the shape of a big, plump chicken. (Paul Gargagliano, Hazel Photo)

“Every time we go to Sonoma County, it’s such a warm place,” says Madeline, who works at the tech company Yeti. “It’s a slower pace compared to the city, and the people you meet are unbelievably friendly and inviting.”

The couple served rosé and Zinfandel made by Beltane Ranch, along with their own “foot stomped weddin’ wine.” And yes, at some point, as they looked around during the rollicking reception, there was Wally the Wooly Weeder, wearing a custom flower crown they had made especially for him. It was his day, too.

The tables are set under the oak trees at Beltane Ranch. (Paul Gargagliano, Hazel Photo)
The tables are set under the oak trees at Beltane Ranch. (Paul Gargagliano, Hazel Photo)
Table setting at Beltane Ranch. (Paul Gargagliano, Hazel Photo)

Resources

Planner and designer: Blissful Events

Location: Beltane Ranch

Photographer: Hazel Photo

Rentals: Encore Events Rentals

Floral design: Mae Flowers

Hair and makeup: The Powder Room

Caterer: Sage Catering

Band: Ticket To Ride

Cake and dessert bar: Supreme Sweets

Transportation: Pure Luxury

Caricatures: Billie Wylie

Madeline and Matt on their wedding day. (Paul Gargagliano, Hazel Photo)
Madeline and Matt on their wedding day. (Paul Gargagliano, Hazel Photo)

Table for 1? The Best Restaurants for Solo Dining Sonoma County

Truffle fries from Willi’s Wine Bar in Santa Rosa. (Willi’s Wine Bar)

I’m always surprised at the number of people — especially women — who say they’re uncomfortable dining alone. Solo-eating adventures are such a treat, giving me the time and space to really enjoy my meal in peace, undistracted by bored teenagers or hangry spouses. Give me a table for one or, even better, a seat at the bar — preferably off to the side with a great view of the dining room action — and I’m a happy camper.

Yes, you may get a sidelong look of pity when you raise a single finger indicating “party of one,” but there’s nothing sad or lonely about it. I’m definitely having more fun eating with myself than the silent couple at the next table or exhausted parents desperately trying to enjoy a forced “date night.”  I often have great conversations with other single diners when I’m feeling friendly. Or bury my face in a book (or phone) if I’m not.

I can’t think of any restaurant I wouldn’t go to solo, but as a lone diner, it can feel conspicuous at bustling, family-friendly restaurants or high-end eateries that cater to couples or groups. Splitting the difference, I’ve compiled a list of casual spots with great bar seating, great people-watching, great food and a welcoming atmosphere for anyone eating unaccompanied.

A few pro tips: If you’re going to sit at the bar, ask first if it’s okay to order food and eat there. Otherwise, you may be waiting for a menu that will never come. I like to dine on the earlier side when I’m alone. Single diners can get overlooked during very busy times. Finally, you’re absolutely not obligated to drink alcohol while eating at the bar, but it’s polite to make way for imbibing customers if the bar gets busy. And make sure to tip your bartender!

The best restaurants for solo dining

Valette: Though there are only a handful of seats, dining at the bar here is one of my absolute favorite Healdsburg experiences. While it’s still a white linen napkin affair, the elevated food feels somehow more approachable while I’m perched on a barstool. While the entire tasting menu at the bar might be awkward, it’s a perfect spot to hunker down with a glass of wine and a plate of duck breast with coastal huckleberries (and maybe a dessert). 344 Center St., Healdsburg, valettehealdsburg.com.

Duke’s Spirited Cocktails: Go on the earlier side to grab a seat at the bar (or settle into a bar table). Order a burger from next door’s Iggy’s Organic Burgers, dive into a Manhattan and watch the cast of characters parade through the door. 111 Plaza St., Healdsburg, drinkatdukes.com.

Lo and Behold: You will rarely be the only singleton at this post-work hospitality industry favorite. Bar seats are a premium, but there are plenty of other spots (including outdoors) to enjoy a cocktail and some “Almost Famous” chicken strips. 214 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, loandbeholdca.com.

J. Brix Sunrise Over Skin at The Redwood natural wine bar in Sebastopol on Friday, February 24, 2023. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
J. Brix Sunrise Over Skin at The Redwood natural wine bar in Sebastopol on Friday, February 24, 2023. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
Fried Potatoes with pimenton aioli at The Redwood in Sebastopol. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
Fried Potatoes with pimenton aioli at The Redwood in Sebastopol. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

The Redwood: If you’re a fan of natural wines, you’ve already discovered this hot spot. But if you’re wine-curious, get an education and some tasty risotto at the bar or in the dining room. 234 S. Main St., Sebastopol, theredwoodwine.com.

Sushi Kosho: Soft seating in the new lounge area or at the slim bar are both great spots for dining alone, but you can also plop down at a table outside and enjoy watching evening shoppers.  6750 McKinley St., Sebastopol, theredwoodwine.com.

Bloom Carneros: Though you’ll often find families here on the weekend, this mostly outdoor restaurant is always a breath of fresh air, letting you clear your mind while nibbling on chef Jennifer McMurry’s seasonally-inspired dishes. 22910 Broadway, Sonoma, bloomcarneros.com.

At Bloom Carneros in Sonoma. (Daniel E. Kokin)
At Bloom Carneros in Sonoma. (Daniel E. Kokin)
Mushroom Cubano with a pinot noir from Kivelstadt Cellars and WineGarten at the corner of Hwy 12 and Hwy 121 in Sonoma Thursday, October 20, 2022. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Mushroom Cubano with a pinot noir from Bloom Carneros (formerly Kivelstadt Cellars and WineGarten) in Sonoma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Oso Sonoma: Bar seating is plentiful, and the excellent collection of small plates — including ceviche, mac and cheese or mole-braised tacos — is impressive. 9 East Napa St., Sonoma, ososonoma.com.

Willi’s Wine Bar: I sometimes grab a happy hour nosh and a glass of wine just because it’s Wednesday at this tucked-away Santa Rosa institution. You’ll never feel rushed nibbling on your crab tacos and can stroll around the neighborhood to stretch your legs afterward. 1415 Town and Country Drive, Santa Rosa., starkrestaurants.com.

Crab tacos at Willi's Wine Bar in Santa Rosa on opening day of the new location after the Tubbs Fire. Heather Irwin/PD
Crab tacos at Willi’s Wine Bar in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)

The Spinster Sisters: The bar is the centerpiece of the dining room and a perfect spot to grab a light dinner on your own. Braised beans and greens are a favorite, but smaller plates like smoked trout dip are lovely. 401 S. A St., Santa Rosa, thespinstersisters.com.

Belly Left Coast Kitchen: If you want a little action but don’t have a date, head to this casual downtown Santa Rosa restaurant and grab a seat at the bar or outside. Happy hour is always hopping; there’s plenty of action to watch streetside, and the wall of taps is always flowing. 523 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, bellyleftcoastkitchenandtaproom.com.

Geyserville Gun Club: Shockingly good food and cocktails at this small town bar owned by a mega-talented chef. 21025 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, geyservillegunclub.com.

Louisiana Hash with onions, bell peppers, bacon, potatoes, cheddar, eggs, herbs, mushrooms and spicy seasoning from J & M’s Midtown Cafe, Thursday, Jan. 18, 2024, in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Louisiana Hash with onions, bell peppers, bacon, potatoes, cheddar, eggs, herbs, mushrooms and spicy seasoning from J & M’s Midtown Cafe in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Breakfast and brews

Tea Room Cafe: This charming little cafe offers breakfast all day as well as simple sandwiches and tasty tea elixirs. 316 Western Ave., Petaluma, tearoomcafe.com.

J&M Midtown Cafe: Though the vibe and the menu are classic greasy spoon, the chef takes special care to add special touches like house-smoked salmon and extra-yummy Hollandaise made from scratch. 1422 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, jm-midtowncafe.com.

Brew Coffee and Beer House: Beer and coffee are top-notch at this inclusive neighborhood cafe, along with creative sandwiches and toasts. We love the laid-back vibe and artsy crowd with our Golden Lattes. 555 Healdsburg Ave., Santa Rosa, brewcoffeeandbeer.com.

Owners of Valley Ford Restaurant Taking Over Lucas Wharf in Bodega Bay

The Lucas Wharf Restaurant and Bar in Bodega Bay closed down suddenly and laid off all their staff, leaving a note on the door stating “Temporarily Closed,” Monday, March 6, 2023. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

The owners of Valley Ford’s Rocker Oysterfeller’s restaurant are taking over the shuttered Lucas Wharf restaurant in Bodega Bay, with opening slated for early summer.

Longtime restaurateurs Brandon Guenther and Shona Campbell have confirmed that the dining destination overlooking the bay would be a third location for their Southern-style roadhouse eateries. Their Valley Ford and Placerville restaurants will remain in operation seven days per week for lunch and dinner.

“Brandon and I hold this place very dear to our hearts and have amazing memories relaxing at the bar and restaurant overlooking the stunning bay views ever since we moved out to the Sonoma Coast,” said a statement on Rocker Oysterfeller’s Instagram page. “When we had the opportunity to open up our third location in the town that we love and call home, we just had to say yes.”

The new menu will include additional steak and seafood options as well as their much-loved buttermilk fried chicken, bacon-wrapped shrimp and grits, barbecued and raw oysters, and Smashburgers. The new location will also include seasonal craft cocktails, local beers and a curated wine program.

Lucas Wharf, an iconic Bodega Bay restaurant, closed down suddenly and laid off all its staff in March 2023, as reported by The Press Democrat.

More details on the opening of Rocker Oysterfeller’s Seaside coming soon.

How Is Climate Change Impacting Sonoma County’s Ecosystems? Local Scientists Find Out

Imagine taking an empty picture frame and laying it flat on a grassy meadow on the same day each spring. Inside that rectangle is a microcosm—a living, breathing universe unto itself. In the height of the season it might be buzzing with pollinators. A snake might slither past or a gopher might pop up. Filling the diorama, native grasses and wildflowers jockey for space with invasive species in a patchwork quilt of ground cover.

If you were to study the picture inside that frame, year after year, measuring how it changes and evolves, the data would unfold like a time-lapse video, charting the effects of extreme weather patterns, non-native plants, controlled grazing, and rampant wildfire—the real-time window into the local impacts of climate change.

In Sonoma County, we know intuitively that our landscape is changing. From one year to the next, we seesaw from extreme heat waves and drought to epic rains and floods. Call it climate change, call it global warming. As fires scorched our land, some call it life or death.

“The ‘change’ part in climate change is that we don’t know what’s coming. We just know it’s changing, and that makes it extremely difficult to predict what the effects are ~ researcher Sarah Gordon

But spring arrives, and the landscape regenerates. Some years, lupines and poppies in our meadows bloom weeks earlier than usual. Other years, migrating Canadian geese arrive later. After the Tubbs Fire, bright blue lazuli bunting songbirds appeared for the first time in years. Some seeds can lie dormant for decades, only triggered to germinate by fire.

Timing is everything. Humans invented clocks, but nature keeps its own calendar. Scientists call it “phenology,” the study of the timing of biological life cycles like flowering and mating and how those cycles are influenced by climate. From grasslands to wetlands, scientists fan out across Sonoma County, documenting its diverse ecosystems and their inhabitants.

At Pepperwood Preserve, scientists lay down white-tubed “quadrats” and measure the percentage of cover of native perennial grasses, invasive exotic annuals and wildflowers. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)
At Pepperwood Preserve, scientists lay down white-tubed “quadrats” and measure the percentage of cover of native perennial grasses, invasive exotic annuals and wildflowers. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)
Scientists measure the percentage of cover of native perennial grasses (California oatgrass, blue wildrye), invasive exotic annuals (barbed goatgrass, ripgut grass) and wildflowers (buttercups, native clover). (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)
Scientists measure the percentage of cover of native perennial grasses (California oatgrass, blue wildrye), invasive exotic annuals (barbed goatgrass, ripgut grass) and wildflowers (buttercups, native clover). (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)

Every May at Pepperwood Preserve in the Mayacamas, researchers have been studying the same square-meter grassland plots, down to the centimeter, for the past 13 years. Instead of picture frames, they lay down white-tubed “quadrats” and measure the percentage of cover of native perennial grasses (California oatgrass, blue wildrye), invasive exotic annuals (barbed goatgrass, ripgut grass) and wildflowers (buttercups, native clover).

“If you look at every single vegetation map of Sonoma County, there will be many different forest types and shrub types, but when it comes to grasslands, it’s just listed as ‘grasslands.’ You know why? Because you can’t see it from space. You have to put your nose into it and really bend over to see it,” says Michelle Halbur, ecology research manager at the 3,200-acre preserve. “And what you see is incredibly diverse, on small and big spatial scales. Grasslands are very patchy. They’re dynamic over time, and they’re hard to categorize. They’re like the black box of vegetation types.”

Ecologist Sarah Gordon studies tiny, endangered plants in seasonal vernal pools, like this one along the Laguna de Santa Rosa near Sebastopol. Vernal pools appear with winter rains and disappear by late spring. Gordon is hoping to better understand how changes in temperature affect plant health. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)
Ecologist Sarah Gordon studies tiny, endangered plants in seasonal vernal pools, like this one along the Laguna de Santa Rosa near Sebastopol. Vernal pools appear with winter rains and disappear by late spring. Gordon is hoping to better understand how changes in temperature affect plant health. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)

In the Laguna de Santa Rosa watershed, plant ecologist Sarah Gordon studies vernal pools, the seasonal, swimming-pool-sized bodies of water that appear almost magically with the onset of winter rains and dry up by April or May, as part of a program started in 2006. These extremely fragile ecosystems are home to the endangered California tiger salamander and three endangered plants—Burke’s goldfields, Sonoma sunshine, and Sebastopol meadowfoam—which exist almost exclusively in Sonoma County.

On a recent morning, Gordon and a colleague set out with clipboards, making ripples across the pools in knee-high boots, to collect observational data, noting water depth and plant populations. Wading across one pool, Gordon spotted thin, green stems of Sonoma sunshine sprouting through the black mirrored water. A closer look revealed a string of tiger salamander eggs attached to a stem. Over the past few years, she’s witnessed “pretty extreme algal blooms” in the vernal pools, similar to toxic algae blooms on the Russian River, which can threaten fragile species.

At Pepperwood Preserve, a solar-powered weather station provides researchers with information on long-term weather patterns. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)
At Pepperwood Preserve, a solar-powered weather station provides researchers with information on long-term weather patterns. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)
Each year, as more extreme weather extreme weather conditions impact conditions impact the land, one of of The questions q uestions researchers hope researchers hope to answer is, answer WI p lant s How Willthe plants animals respond? But in the same breath, they also Willour community respond? And animals resp Ond? BU in same breath, they also want to know, how Willour community respond?
At Pepperwood Preserve.  (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)

“The ‘change’ part in climate change is that we don’t know what’s coming,” says Gordon. “We just know it’s changing, and that makes it extremely difficult to predict what the effects are going to be.”

This time of year, before the rolling hills of Sonoma County turn from Irish green to golden rye, students at Casa Grande High School in Petaluma flock to the school’s nursery to help repot seedlings. The seedlings will eventually find a home in restored grasslands as part of a program facilitated by Petaluma’s Point Blue Conservation Science. At Tolay Lake Regional Park outside Sonoma, students have helped restore over 4,000 plants.

Each year, as more extreme weather extreme weather conditions impact conditions impact the land, one of the questions researchers hope to answer is, how will the plants and animals respond? But in the same breath, they also want to know, how will our community respond?

Students also collect native grass seeds near future restoration sites. The seeds are brought back to the nursery to be weighed and catalogued. Then, depending on what kind of seed it is, they will encourage it to germinate—some seeds need to be roughed up and soaked in water or even dipped in acid to help break the seed coat. “There’s kind of a secret recipe for each species of seed,” explains Point Blue’s Isaiah Thalmayer.

If all goes well, by next spring Casa Grande students will repeat the ritual of replanting their carefully tended seedlings into larger pots.

But for now, students and researchers watch and learn. Each year, as more extreme weather conditions impact our grassland and wetland ecosystems, one of the questions they hope to answer is, how will plants and animals respond?

And in the same breath, they also want to know, how will our community respond?

In the plant nursery at Petaluma's Casa Grande High School, students team up with researchers from Point Blue Conservation Science to raise native plants for restoration projects, including one at nearby Tolay Lake Regional Park. Students gain hands-on experience in germinating the seeds of different types of grasses and shrubs and learn how researchers use stands of native plants to sequester carbon. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)
In the plant nursery at Petaluma’s Casa Grande High School, students team up with researchers from Point Blue Conservation Science to raise native plants for restoration projects, including one at nearby Tolay Lake Regional Park. Students gain hands-on experience in germinating the seeds of different types of grasses and shrubs and learn how researchers use stands of native plants to sequester carbon. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)
In the plant nursery at Petaluma's Casa Grande High School, students team up with researchers from Point Blue Conservation Science to raise native plants for restoration projects, including one at nearby Tolay Lake Regional Park. Students gain hands-on experience in germinating the seeds of different types of grasses and shrubs and learn how researchers use stands of native plants to sequester carbon. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)
In the plant nursery at Petaluma’s Casa Grande High School. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)

Along the Laguna de Santa Rosa, the community seems up to the challenge. One Fulton area landowner had no idea what a vernal pool was when they purchased their property. At first, they were nervous about caring for endangered plants. But after a few years, “they changed the whole trajectory of what they are planning to do with their property,” says Gordon. “They installed fencing and brought conservation grazing onto the property, on their own time and on their own dime. They have done everything they can to help take care of these endangered plants.”

At Pepperwood, volunteer outings and forest and grassland workshops are offered several times a year. “We’re trying to help build the skill set so folks can go back to their own land, their own homes, and apply the work that we’re doing and the monitoring that we’re doing,” says Halbur.

“It’s important for the long term, not just because climate change is happening, but to ensure that we are always learning. We’re always asking of the land itself, how is it doing? Are we doing a good job?”

Ecologist Michelle Halbur kneels beside a one-meter square quadrat, which she uses to document the distribution of grassland plants. Halbur has been visting the exact same grassland study sites each spring for the past 13 years. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)
Ecologist Michelle Halbur kneels beside a one-meter square quadrat, which she uses to document the distribution of grassland plants. Halbur has been visting the exact same grassland study sites each spring for the past 13 years. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)
The small-scale ecosystem inside a one-meter square quadrat at Pepperwood Preserve in Santa Rosa. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)

To learn more

Pepperwood Preserve: Wildflower tours and hikes each Saturday in April. pepperwoodpreserve.org

Point Blue Conservation Science: pointblue.org

Laguna de Santa Rosa Foundation: Spring ecology workshops in March and April. lagunafoundation.org

A Family of Seven Turns an Old Sonoma Schoolhouse Into a Gorgeous Home

“Not for the faint of heart,” was the line in the real estate listing that caught the eye of designer Eva Kunkle. She and her husband, Aaron, are childhood sweethearts who each come from families that worked in the building trades—so they were used to a good project. But this particular undertaking would need everything the couple and their five sons had to give.

The year was 2013, and the listing was for the nearly 150-year-old former Green Valley schoolhouse, located a few minutes outside the town of Graton. It had stopped operating as a school in 1962, and since then had been used as a childcare center, a polling location, a church—and more recently, a training center for Graton Fire Department.

Schoolhouse home transformation in Sonoma County.
A couple with five sons make a long-abandoned schoolhouse their forever home. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)

After several decades without permanent tenants, the building was in rough shape.

“The windows were all blacked out from the fire department training, and you could see the sky through holes in the ceiling,” Eva recalls. “And the hill in back had sloped and sloped until it essentially buried the whole back of the school.”

The couple wrote the fire department’s board of directors a letter, explaining the connection they felt to the building, and how the schoolhouse seemed like the place they should be raising their family of five boys, ages 7 to 12 at the time.

“It felt like this place was a part of our family, that it was meant to be—the building of boys, and the building of a family,” says Eva.

And the board voted to sell the building to them.

Renovations took several years. Eva and Aaron did most of the work themselves, while the boys adventured around the property and gave tours to the many locals who stopped in to see what was going on at the old schoolhouse.

“It was a wild and crazy time,” laughs Eva. “We would be here all day, and the kids would run around and play. We had a big tent set up in back with Legos and a queen-size bed and a Persian rug. We would just work, and then we’d barbecue dinner on the grill outside and go back to our rental and throw the five boys into the tub. Line them up, scrub them down.”

“They loved it,” says Aaron. “They thought it was funny. They thought they were cars, going through the car wash.”

The couple say that they focused all their intentions on knowing that while the work was tough, it was also a special time with their boys that they’d never get back.

“I couldn’t do it again, ’cause I’m in a different season,” says Eva. “But at the time, it really did create this idea of, like, life doesn’t have to be this perfect 72-degree situation. You can be creative with the way you live, and be resilient, and do hard things to create a future.”

That future is now evident in the many details and memories contained in the schoolhouse. The building still retains traces of its former life, albeit adapted to the needs of a large family.

The center hallway. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)

One enters the schoolhouse up a set of new front steps, through the original schoolhouse door, and into a center hallway. Off that hallway, there were originally two large classrooms, one to the left and one to the right, with a big washroom and the principal’s office in the back. Eva and Aaron remade the fifth through eighth grade classroom on the left into a large family room, with the school’s raised stage as their dining room and a kitchen and pantry built into the former cloakroom along the back wall.

Across the hall, the former kindergarten through fourth grade classroom is now a dormitory, with six cubby-style beds built into the back wall and big tables and couches for the boys, now 18 to 23 years old. The boys share a bathroom with the original vintage trough-style schoolhouse sink. And Eva and Aaron turned the principal’s office into a portion of a new primary suite, with an added-on bedroom that looks out to the backyard through French doors rescued from a salvage yard.

Schoolhouse home transformation in Sonoma County.
The Graton-area schoolhouse had been vacant for years when it was purchased by the Kunkle family. They turned the upper grade classroom into their family room, with restored windows and a large dining area where the school stage used to be. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)
Schoolhouse home transformation in Sonoma County.
The school bathroom is now a bathroom for the five sons in the family, with an original Kohler trough-style sink. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)

In the bright family room, the couple painstakingly restored the unique outswing windows, scraping off years of paint, putting in new glass, and reworking the original mechanisms inside. Eva spent months standing on scaffolding to spackle and sand the original ceiling plaster, which she was determined to save. Now, sitting in the family room, with its 12-foot ceilings and broad banks of restored windows, is almost like being outdoors.

“It feels special all the time. Imagine all the leaves bright green in spring, and it’s like you are in a tree house, the most beautiful tree house,” says Eva. “Watching the light play around with the shadows and the oak trees and the sun in the morning, it’s just beautiful.”

“The sun comes up, and this house is literally like a catcher’s mitt, catching all the light,” says Aaron. “It’s unbelievable; it just glows.”

The green of the oaks in spring is intense, and the front yard is filled with wild onions that bloom like little white bells. Eva likes to leave the onion flowers to grow as late as she can. Eventually the other wild grasses around them get so tall that the yard must be mowed, and then “the whole property smells like onions for like three days,” she laughs.

The rooms have a layered and authentic sense of history, filled with simple, natural pieces and gorgeous textures. Eva, who designs and styles interiors professionally, found nearly all of the furnishings at local thrift shops and secondhand stores.

“I really love to see the wood and concrete and metal. They’re honest materials. And I love patina and age—worn things that are made really well. That’s my style.”

The new kitchen cabinets were custom milled from reclaimed wood, and Eva chose brass pulls that echo the schoolhouse’s original hardware.

Sonoma schoolhouse transformation.
A warm, rustic simplicity in the primary bedroom, with French doors rescued from a salvage yard. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)
Schoolhouse home transformation in Sonoma County.
A reading nook in the home. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)

After the house was finished, the family used their restoration skills to help others in the community. Eva and Aaron got back into construction full-time, rebuilding family homes in Santa Rosa’s Coffey Park neighborhood after the Tubbs Fire.

“We had literally 16 projects pinned up on the wall of the dining room,” recalls Aaron. “It was, like, how could you sit here with a crew you’d just taught to build a house and not want to help.”

Moving forward, the couple say that they’re reaching a turning point, as the boys start to transition to more independent lives as young adults. There aren’t quite as many Nerf battles happening these days, as the daily rumble of a home filled with young boys starts to go down a notch.

Sonoma schoolhouse transformation.
Flowers and vintage finds. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)
Schoolhouse home transformation in Sonoma County.
Eva and Aaron Kunkle in the dining room. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)

Eva and Aaron are launching a new design/ build business focusing on custom, finely detailed accessory dwelling units, or ADUs. ADUs, they explain, allow families to stay together and retain flexibility as their housing needs change—offering young adults an affordable place to live, or empty nesters a smaller home near their children. It’s a project that feels right to Eva and Aaron at this stage of their lives.

But the couple still remember fondly the all-encompassing early days of the renovation, and how they’d rope pairs of boys into giving neighbors a tour of the project.

“Now that we’re finished, we don’t get as many former students stopping in. But that was a sweet season… This is such an important piece of property, not just to us, but to the people who went to school here,” says Eva.

Looking back, Eva and Aaron say the schoolhouse restoration has connected their family to something larger than themselves—an entire community of locals who knew and loved the old building.

“And we weren’t just renovating a schoolhouse,” says Eva. “We were raising men.”

Share Your Restaurant Recommendations, Questions With Our Dining Editor

A tray full of ribs and brisket and all the fixings of Austin’s Southern Smoke BBQ at Old Possum Brewing Co. in Santa Rosa. (Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine)

Recently I reached out to readers asking for their restaurant recommendations and questions. You didn’t disappoint. In fact, I got so much great feedback, I’m going to add a new reader question to my Bite Club column each week. (Bite Club is published in The Press Democrat on Sundays and on sonomamag.com weekly.)

Here’s our first inquiry from Melissa: “I’ve been waiting with bated breath for the opening of A&M BBQ that was supposed to occur April 1 in Sebastopol. Are you aware of any snag keeping it from opening as planned?”

Answer: Marvin’s BBQ owner Marvin Mckinzy said he’s working on some last-minute issues with Sonoma County that arose and the restaurant will be closed until next Thursday. The collaboration also is being finalized and the grand opening pushed back. Watch for more details on their Instagram page, Instagram.com/ambbqllc.

Share your restaurant recommendations and questions by sending an email

Popular Petaluma Restaurant Finds New Home in Santa Rosa

Ensalada Jardinera, with quinoa, bell pepper, celery, lime and cherry tomatoes and a purple corn based Chicha Morada drink from Quinua Cocina Peruana in Petaluma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

After closing his popular Petaluma restaurant over a lease dispute in January, restaurateur Juan Gutierrez was determined to find a new location for his Peruvian cuisine. Three months later, he’s poised to open Quinua Cocina Peruana in Santa Rosa at the former Spring Lake Chinese restaurant (4219 Montgomery Drive).

“We always loved Santa Rosa, and I want to share my food and culture,” Gutierrez said.

The menu will be similar to his location in Petaluma, offering classic Peruvian dishes, including Papa a la Huancaina (potatoes with yellow peppers and cream), a selection of ceviches, Lomo Saltado (beef in soy sauce with fries), Peruvian-style paella, braised lamb shank, Pato Huanchano (duck marinated in orange juice and peppers), and a new selection of salads and soups.

More details when the restaurant opens in early April.

This article is part of this week’s Bite Club column. Read it here

Peek Inside ‘Karate Kid’ Screenwriter’s Japanese-Style Sonoma Home

Along the southwestern slope of the Mayacamas, some 1,400 feet above the town of Sonoma, screenwriter and vintner Robert Kamen and his wife, Evonne Kamen Sproat, live in a much-longed-for contemporary Japanese-style hilltop home.

It is their oasis and their dream, they say—a place they never really imagined they would call home. But here, surrounded by 50 acres of organically grown Syrah, Cabernet, and Sauvignon Blanc, along with centuries-old oaks and heritage olive trees, the couple feels at peace.

At sunset, they relax on the expansive deck in modern chairs that hint of an Adirondack past, sipping a rosé made by Robert from grapes grown on the property, with their two standard poodles at their side, siblings named Kashmir and Kaia. The view they take in at the end of each day together sweeps broadly across the entire San Francisco Bay, with silhouettes of Mount Tam, the bridges, and even Mount Diablo.

The couple say it’s serendipity that brought them to this life, at this rugged site and on this rugged land, which lies 5 miles uphill from downtown Sonoma, the last two of those miles along a mostly dirt road.

“I live a 24-hour romance with the vineyard and with Vonnie. We live in the bubble of love,” explains Robert, a screenwriter known for “The Karate Kid,” “Taps,” “The Fifth Element,” and some two-dozen other blockbuster films. “I just knew I always wanted to live here, and I found the perfect person to do it with. If there’s someone who likes living here more than me, it’s Vonnie.”

A deep soaking tub on a bed of smooth river stones brings a sense of calm to the primary bath.
A deep soaking tub on a bed of smooth river stones brings a sense of calm to the primary bath. (Adam Potts)

Back in the late 1970s, it was Robert who stumbled upon the site of his home while on a hike with a friend. At the time, the place was strewn with rocks and ryegrass, but Robert found himself utterly seduced by the view. He put down $135,000 to buy the land, the entire paycheck from the first screenplay he ever sold. It was a leap of faith for sure, as there was no electricity at the site, no water, not even a road. Essentially, he bought the view.

For a couple of years, Robert simply hiked and explored the land, getting to know the place. Later, the Bronx native built a simple, rustic studio on the property—a retreat from his apartment on Central Park in New York City, where he raised three daughters from an earlier marriage.

Viticulturist Phil Coturri helped Robert plant his first organic vineyard, convinced that the rocky, volcanic soil could grow great wine. Kamen Estate’s first harvest was in 1986, and for a while, Robert sold the fruit to other producers. But soon, he was drawn to the allure of winemaking, and the first Kamen Estate release was bottled in 1999.

A simplified palette of Corten steel, iron, wood, and concrete complement the structural rammed earth walls and keep the focus on the surrounding landscape and vineyards. (Adam Potts)
A simplified palette of Corten steel, iron, wood, and concrete complement the structural rammed earth walls and keep the focus on the surrounding landscape and vineyards. (Adam Potts)

Robert left New York to live full time in the small studio on the vineyard in 2010. But these days, he and Evonne, who have been together 11 years, live in a larger Japanese-style contemporary home, designed by Santa Rosa architect Jessie Whitesides of Asquared Studios and completed in 2019.

The day of their first project meeting, Whitesides started sketching out designs with a black marker. “He said it needed to be a pretty simple thing,” recalls Whitesides. “I said ‘I see a couple of interlocking boxes, flat roof.’” And that was it—the basic vision for the project was in place.

“I probably never would have built the house without Vonnie,” Robert says of the three-year construction project Whitesides and her team oversaw. Evonne, a native of Hawaii of Japanese heritage, has always been drawn to the outdoors. She traveled all over the world for 44 years as a flight attendant.

Early in their relationship, Evonne told Robert the story of a fellow flight attendant who envisioned that she would one day live in the mountains near the ocean, surrounded by greenery. Driving up to the vineyard with Robert for the first time, Evonne thought, “My god, this is what she was talking about.”

Perched atop a steep hillside and divided into a series of three interlocking boxes, the couple’s 4,000-square-foot home has just one bedroom and a single office, lit throughout by floor-to-ceiling windows. A natural palette of Corten steel, wood, and glass blends with the surrounding property and with the textural striations of the rammed-earth walls.

The 8-foot-tall windows, imported from Portugal at a cost of nearly $1 million, are an essential feature of the design. “We take great pleasure in them, because our whole idea was we wanted to live inside and outside,” says Robert. “If it’s 100 degrees, we want to live inside. If it’s pouring rain, we want to live inside. But the rest of the time we want an inside/outside environment, and the windows afford us that.”

A marble Buddha greets guests as they enter the home through a massive oak front door, which pivots to open directly into the great room, where the view sweeps out through the windows to the spectacularly layered landscape beyond.

An open kitchen flanks one side of the entry, with an entertainment area at the other side. Nearby, there’s a yoga room with soaring windows, a wine storage area, and a Japanese-style bathroom with an elevated shower and soaking tub, opening to a zen garden.

Robert and Evonne have filled the home with art they’ve collected, including rugs, paintings, and textiles, many by friends and family. The early 1900s Japanese silk kimono Evonne’s grandfather’s wife wore for her wedding hangs on the bedroom wall, and polished Hawaiian driftwood sculptures made by Evonne’s mother share space with tapestries and paintings from Dutch actor Jeroen Krabbé.

Robert still writes daily in his large office on a desk inlaid with mother-of-pearl, which he purchased long ago in India, near the Taj Mahal. Photographs of his three daughters are displayed on long, open shelves, alongside piles of scripts from over the years, each inked on the side with the name of the film.

Robert and Evonne insist on a simple, purposeful life up in the hills, marked by long walks with their dogs through the vineyards, alfresco lunches, and evenings surrounded by the view. Robert writes in his office most mornings and practices karate daily, a habit he’s kept since he was 17 years old. Later, the couple might head down the hill to the Kamen Estates tasting room on the square in town, or host wine club members on the skydeck near the house.

This time of year, the promise of the upcoming harvest is tangible, as clusters hang on the vine and crews of fieldworkers prepare for the pick. It’s often windy, but at other times, it’s perfectly still except for the beat of the workers’ radios—here and there, they might even catch someone singing and humming along as the grapes come in. The work comes hard and fast, usually starting in late August for the whites, and late September for the reds. “It is beautiful to hear,” Evonne says.

Evonne believes that the way their life experiences and cultures intertwine are no mere coincidence, coming back to the concept of serendipity. “His whole life has come full circle, don’t you think?” she says.

“Everything happens for a reason,’’ echoes Robert. “I didn’t buy this property to plant a vineyard. My entire ethos and nature was all formed in a city housing project in the Bronx. Who would have thought a skinny little kid with a big mouth would end up here?”

Resources

Architecture: Jessie Whitesides and Tony Garcia, Asquared Studios, Santa Rosa, asquaredstudios.com

Contractor: Richard Kirby, Annadel Builders, Santa Rosa, annadelbuildersinc.com

Landscape Architect: David and Nancy Roche, Roche + Roche, Sonoma, rocheandroche.com

Rammed Earth: Dan Alvarado, Rammed Earth Works, rammedearthworks.com

Gravel Racing Was Happening in Sonoma Long Before It Became Cool. Now It’s Disappearing

Cycling standout Miguel Crawford was getting folks together for rollicking low-fi bike races in rural west county over a decade before the worldwide rise of gravel racing. (Brian Tucker)

Meet Miguel Crawford, husband, father, teacher, extreme velophile—dude has 15 bikes lined up neatly in his Sebastopol studio—and accidental pioneer.

It was 26 years ago that Crawford, a longtime Spanish instructor at El Molino, then Analy High School, organized his first Hopper. That’s the innocuous-sounding name for the merry sufferfests comprising the Grasshopper Adventure Series, which he founded with little to no fanfare back in 1998.

A slightly sadistic series of four to six “rideslash-races” taking place between January and summer, Crawford’s “Hoppers” have long put a premium on hard-won versatility, taking riders over pavement, dirt, gravel, distressed macadam, fire roads, old logging trails, single- track, you name it.

Ripping down Old Cazadero Road north of Guerneville, or grinding up Willow Creek outside Duncans Mills on a smorgasbord of different rigs—road bikes, mountain bikes, cyclocross bikes—those intrepid early Hopper racers didn’t look or feel especially cutting edge.

It turned out, however, that the multi-terrain adventures Crawford has been curating since the previous millennium preceded by at least a decade the rise of gravel riding and racing, a discipline that’s recently gained worldwide popularity. Grasshoppers were all about gravel—and the gravel ethos of fun and exploration— before gravel was cool.

“Gravel,” we are reminded by five-time Olympian and Hopper veteran Katerina Nash, is not to be taken too literally. That word has become shorthand, a catch-all for a mix of different terrains. A huge part of its appeal, says Nash, “is that it brings together all these athletes”— mountain bikers, roadies, members of the cyclocross tribe—“who wouldn’t otherwise meet.”

There are now hundreds of gravel racing events across the United States each year. Among the best known is Unbound Gravel, a 200-mile ordeal contested by 4,000 riders each June in the Flint Hills of Kansas. The Super Bowl of Gravel, as some refer to Unbound, has been won by several Hopper regulars, including Yuri Hauswald, Amity Rockwell, Alison Tetrick, and Ted King, who refers to the Grasshopper Series as the “OG”—the original gangster—of gravel. That tribute was validated in March of 2023 by the Gravel Cycling Hall of Fame, which included Crawford in its second class of inductees, along with Petalumans Hauswald and Tetrick—lending the Emporia, Kansas-based Hall of Fame a distinctly Sonoma flavor.

Decades before the bike industry began marketing gravel bikes, noted Crawford’s Hall of Fame presenter, Dan Hughes, “Mig and his friends were pushing their old road bikes to the limit, installing the largest tires the frames could handle and taking parts from early mountain bikes to create new frankenbikes that could handle the abuse of long mixed-terrain rides.”

The natural beauty of Crawford’s courses, coupled with the relaxed, low-fi vibe of the events, has earned the series a fiercely loyal following throughout Northern California and beyond. Hoppers tend to draw a mix of eager, über-fit amateurs and, at the pointy end of the peloton, a who’s who of pro riders, both mountain and road, seeking some hard miles to sharpen their fitness for the upcoming season.

It’s a mix that has led to some surreal moments. Crawford recalls Giro d’Italia stage winner Peter Stetina texting him from Europe to learn the results of certain Hoppers. “He’d be over in France, racing Paris–Nice or something, asking me who won Old Caz.”

But as word of the rides got out and the number of participants grew, so did attention from neighbors, including members of the Kashia Pomo rancheria. Some citizens complained to their elected officials, others to the California Coastal Commission. By 2022, the process of securing permits for Sonoma County events had become so onerous, even Kafkaesque, that Crawford made the tough, sad decision to move the bulk of the series to friendlier environs—ones outside the county where the races were born.

Miguel Crawford, a longtime Spanish instructor at El Molino, then Analy High School, organized his first Hopper 26 years ago. (Courtesy of Miguel Crawford)

The one who made it happen

A three-sport athlete and member of El Molino’s Class of 1988, Miguel “Mig” Crawford became an elite bike racer following his graduation from Humboldt State. Upon returning to Sonoma County, he spent a decade, on bike and on foot, getting to know the fire roads and byways, the abandoned railroad corridors and old logging trails of west county like the creases on the palm of his hand.

Working with remote, often stunningly beautiful roads such as Sweetwater Springs, Skaggs Springs, King Ridge, Kruse Ranch, Old Caz, Willow Creek—“sounds like a greatest hits album,” notes Crawford, as he ticks them off—he devised long, looping rides that were at once spectacular and spectacularly hard.

Mig and friends would meet in the parking lot behind Occidental’s Union Hotel, where he would hand them a laminated card with a hand-drawn map of that day’s route. In those early, unsanctioned years, there was no registration, no waivers or rest stops or prizes, other than bragging rights and a bag of chips at the finish, paired with a Coke—or perhaps some other, more potent cold beverage.

Crawford would “start us on pavement, jump to dirt, connect through the backwoods to a bit of singletrack,” says old Hopper hand Geoff Kabush, a Canadian mountain biker who competed in three Olympic Games. “It was always fun to see what he was going to piece together.”

The underground feel of those early Hoppers faded as the fields grew. The registration fee edged up, from free, to $5, and then $10. By the time the legendary Ted King showed up to ride his first Grasshopper in 2011, the price of admission was up to (gasp!) $20.

“Hoppers have a different feel than a lot of the other races we do around the country. It still has that original ethos, those nuggets of camaraderie that you don’t see elsewhere.” – pro rider Ted King

The event had been described to him as a group ride, and King remembers thinking at the time, “Why do I need to pay $20 to go on a training ride?”

But he soon found himself drawn in by the fellowship and the beauty of the route. Following the punishing climb of Geysers Road outside Cloverdale, which pitches up the way Mike Campbell says he went broke in Hemingway’s “The Sun Also Rises”: “gradually and then suddenly”—riders took a left at the old Jimtown Store, finishing 3,000 vertical feet later at the terminus of Pine Flat Road.

What King remembers about that day was the fun he had, the friends he made—and the dessert awaiting them.

“There were all these cupcakes,” he recalls, 13 years later. “Really nice, artisanal cupcakes.”

“That might’ve been the best 20 bucks I ever put into my cycling career.”

As many former WorldTour pros have after him, King discovered a fulfilling second career as a “privateer”—a rider unaffiliated with a team—on the gravel racing scene. The Hoppers, he says, “have a different feel than a lot of the other races we do around the country. It still has that original ethos, those nuggets of camaraderie that you don’t see elsewhere.”

As pro mountain biker Alex Wild put it after winning the Lake Sonoma Hopper in 2022, “No one’s telling me to be here. I don’t have to put [Hoppers] on my schedule. But Mig just puts on such good events, it makes people want to ride them.”

Top rider Larissa Connors of Santa Rosa finishes a muddy Mendocino Hopper in 2023. (Brian Tucker)
Top rider Larissa Connors of Santa Rosa finishes a muddy Mendocino Hopper in 2023. (Brian Tucker)

Today we ride

Twenty-six years after Crawford and a dozen of his buddies rolled out of Occidental for the inaugural Hopper, some 600 riders straddled their bikes, chatting nervously in the parking lot at Todd Grove Park in Ukiah. It was January 27, 2024, and the group was waiting for the start of the Low Gap Hopper, a half-dirt, half-pavement, 48-mile ordeal into which Crawford crowded 6,200 feet of climbing. (For context, the first mountain stage of this summer’s Tour de France is 87 miles, with 11,617 feet of gain.)

One the coolest things about these adventures, says Chas Christiansen, an artist and pro gravel rider, is who you end up saying hello to in the parking lot or at the start. “You’re standing next to these pros—Ted King, or Levi, or Peter Stetina—guys who just rode in the Tour de France or the Giro d’Italia. It’s wild.”

Christiansen was a 20-something San Francisco bike messenger in 2010 when a friend talked him into signing up for the Old Caz Hopper – the perennial Grasshopper season opener until 2019, when a landslide prompted the county to close the road. (It has yet to reopen.)

He grabbed his vintage Miele, an Italian-style racing steed—“the only bike I had with gears,” he recalls—and headed for Occidental. Thus did he find himself later that morning battling gravity and the elements on the descent of Old Cazadero Road. Such was the steepness of one muddy section of Old Caz that Christiansen was forced to sit astride the top tube of the bike, braking Fred Flintstone-style.

“I had a foot down on each side, like a trimaran,” he recalls.

Up ahead, riders were dismounting. Why are they doing that, he wondered, until he saw the rain-swollen creek bisecting the trail. “You know it’s a good race when there’s a surprise river,” says Christiansen.

Fourteen years later he’s still racing and riding bikes for a living. Christiansen credits Grasshoppers for helping him “get comfortable being extremely uncomfortable” and “riding deep into the wilderness and being confident in my own abilities to survive and thrive.”

Standing on the far side of Austin Creek that soggy morning, photographer Paul C. Miller snapped a picture of Christiansen as the grinning bike messenger forded the stream, shlepping his vintage road bike. Behind him are two riders, one carrying a mountain bike, the other a cyclocross rig. Crawford in particular treasures that image because it captures a core Hopper tenet: There is no “right” bike.

It has long delighted him that these mixed-terrain adventures force specialists out of their comfort zones. Pure roadies merely survive the rocky, technical sections. Fat-tire folk struggle to keep up on pavement. As Hopper apostle Austin McInerny recalls, each new event prompts a fresh round of “tinkering with our bike set-ups, asking one another, ‘What tires you gonna run?’” “For me, that was the fun,” says Crawford, who for years competed in his own events, finishing first in exactly one of them. “Here’s the course, now choose what to ride. We’re all trying to get there as fast as we can. How’s that going to play out?”

Some of that mystery has been removed by the emergence of discipline-specific gravel bikes—including those made by Specialized, now the title sponsor of the series.

McInerney got his first taste of the Grasshopper series around 2006. He was immediately beguiled by the beauty of the routes, and grateful for Crawford’s willingness to share. “Surfers are all about locals only, but Mig’s attitude was, ‘No, you’re here, you’re willing to check it out, you’re part of my group.’” That day’s ride finished at the top of Willow Creek Road, “and it was a huge party up there, chips and beer and soda and people just hanging out, celebrating.”

There is no “right” bike: Chas Christiansen, front, on a vintage Italian road bike, illustrates a core Hopper tenet while racing Old Caz back in 2010. (Paul Miller)
There is no “right” bike: Chas Christiansen, front, on a vintage Italian road bike, illustrates a core Hopper tenet while racing Old Caz back in 2010. (Paul Miller)

Growing pains

Rider Austin McInerny has a background in environmental planning and has consulted extensively on natural resource management cases, including work with the U.S. Forest Service and other federal agencies “with thorny issues, a lot of it dealing with recreation and public lands management.”

For the last six years or so he’s been Crawford’s point man, working with Sonoma County to get the Hoppers permitted. For years, he said, wrangling those permits had been straightforward.

Early in 2022, when the county began consideration of McInerny’s application for a permit to run the King Ridge Supreme Hopper in March of that year, “that’s when things started to go sideways.”

As they later learned, the county was in the process of updating its system for reviewing events such as theirs. As part of that overhaul, Hopper applications were now being scrutinized by newly created Municipal Advisory Councils.

In late January of ’22, Crawford and McInerny were informed by Permit Sonoma that the King Ridge application had drawn the attention of the powerful California Coastal Commission. Concerned citizens had objected to numerous aspects of the application—in particular the Grasshoppers’ plan to use Willow Creek Road, described by one as “an environmentally fragile area within Sonoma Coast State Parks’ salmon-bearing Willow Creek watershed.”

In addition to adverse impacts sure to be suffered by the salmon, the citizen went on, area roads would be blocked by cyclists “and their friends and families cheering them on.”

With the event less than two months away, Crawford and McInerny modified the course, routing riders away from Willow Creek. For weeks, the Coastal Commission withheld its approval of the application. In a letter to the commission, McInerny expressed frustration with its ongoing “review,” pointing out that this Hopper no longer passed through the area of environmental concern.

“The event does not use any of the coastal pullouts, is outside of the busiest time of year, nor requires any road closures. The event has already received approval from California Highway Patrol and is under review by Caltrans, which issued a permit for the same event in 2019.”

“Sadly,” he wrote, “this appears to be a case of locals not wanting to share the beauty of west Sonoma County with others.”

The Grasshopper never did hear back from the Coastal Commission. But a week after McInerny sent his letter, Crawford was informed by Permit Sonoma, that, upon careful review of the code, organizers didn’t need an encroachment permit for the King Ridge Supreme, after all.

The event was on! But the drama was not over.

The course called for riders to roll west on Skaggs Springs Road, then south on Tin Barn Road. Unbeknownst to Crawford and McInerny, that intersection, and the land around it, is the Stewarts Point Rancheria of the Kashia Band of Pomo Indians.

Some of the Kashia Pomo, including tribal chairman Reno Keoni Franklin, were upset that neither the county nor representatives from the Grasshopper Adventure Series had consulted them.

“They did not require safety measures to protect the children and elders who [live] on the Rez. They did not require the riders to post safety signs or to slow down when entering the reservation,” Franklin wrote in a Facebook post the day before the ride.

Describing the event as “extremely dangerous,” that he would be “driving tomorrow to block the road and anyone participating in the race to walk their bike through reservation. I am traveling on this and could use some support.” short notice, Crawford changed the route again, shortening the course considerably to the rancheria. a follow-up email to riders, Crawford explained that he hadn’t consulted with the Kashia before this Hopper, “but neither had we prior to any of our previous events, as this was not requested by any of the county nor California permitting agencies that we had consulted. As far as we understood, both Tin Barn Road and Skaggs Springs-Stewarts Point Road are public roads which have been used legally by the public for years.”

Having spoken with chairman Franklin, Crawford continued, “I now understand the importance of contacting the Tribe, regardless of what is required by the state or the County of Sonoma. All of us, unless native to California, are visitors on this land, and this is important to remember and recognize.”

Scarred by those experiences, and considering “the uncertainty and extremely laborious requirements” of the overhauled permitting process, says McInerny, the Grasshopper hasn’t applied for any permits in Sonoma County since—with the exception of the Lake Sonoma Hopper, which is held on lands managed by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, which has been “fantastic to work with,” says Crawford.

“We were caught,” McInerny believes, “in the middle of an apparent turf battle between the various MACs” and Permit Sonoma staff.

While unwilling to comment specifically on the Grasshopper series, Permit Sonoma director Tennis Wick defended the county’s revamped permitting process as an improvement over the old one, describing it as more efficient, and more responsive to concerns voiced by locals.

“Conducting a community event requires engagement with and respect for that community,” he wrote in an email. “There have been multiple complaints about events impacting local residents and Tribal Partners. Now that advisory councils receive referrals on event applications, residents and businesses may comment on proposals affecting their communities.”

The Grasshopper’s brief flareup with the Kashia Pomo left “no hard feelings,” says Franklin. “We know they learned from it, and in a good way.” He describes Crawford as “a great guy” running “a great organization. They’re raising funds for good causes—causes we support, too.” (The Grasshopper series often donated money to the west county volunteer fire departments along its routes.)

“If they ever do come back, we’ll be happy to work with them.”

Grass Hopper Adventure Series, Lake Sonoma Hopper Mt. Bike race on April 15th 2023.
Grasshopper Adventure Series by Lake Sonoma in April 2023. (Brian Tucker)

New chapter, new outreach

For now, however, the series that sprung up organically in Sonoma County holds all but one of its events elsewhere. In Mendocino County, Ukiah has embraced the Grasshopper series, hosting both the 2024 season-opening Low Gap Hopper in January and the Ukiah- Mendo Gravel Epic on May 11. The 89mile Huffmaster Hopper, on February 24, took place in Colusa County.

“What we’re looking for now,” says Crawford, “is to do events in communities that want us to be there, that see the benefit—that we’re bringing money in, bringing a form of recreation that’s healthy and positive.”

Yes, he is wide open to future rides in Sonoma County, but not if it means the kind administrative war of attrition the Grasshopper endured in 2022.

“It’s a shame,” says Peter Stetina, of the Hoppers exiting Sonoma County, “because they have such a rich history there.” He spoke of widespread “disgruntlement” within the county’s “cycling community”—a frustration with some leaders’ inability to see “a bigger picture” and appreciate the tourism dollars cycling can bring.

Amity Rockwell was philosophical about the migration of Grasshoppers from their original home, describing it as not so much sad as “a little bittersweet,” and, perhaps, inevitable.

Riding King Ridge and Old Caz and Willow Creek “was pretty special,” Rockwell allows. But as the number of riders in the Hoppers “doubled and tripled in size,” it became more difficult to hold the events “in a respectful manner in these really tiny places.” As it booms in popularity, the gravel scene “has undergone massive change in the last six or seven years. There are a lot of races that aren’t what they used to be. They’re something new now.”

One recent addition to Crawford’s series is a rider mentor program devised by Helena Gilbert-Snyder, a pro rider and analyst at Specialized Bicycles.

Gilbert-Snyder is passionate about correcting gender disparity in sports—which can be especially pronounced in cycling. Women make up a little over 20% of the Grasshopper fields. While that’s “above average” for gravel events, says Crawford, “I would obviously like it to go higher.”

Lining up for the Low Gap Hopper will be 20 young female riders, each paired with a seasoned female mentor.

What the job entails, said Rockwell, one of the mentors, is to “follow a junior rider around for the day, help them eat and drink and wear the right clothes.” While it might seem straightforward, “it’s a lot to take on, if you’ve never done this before.”

“When I was just getting started in my early 20s,” she recalls, the Hoppers “were a way for me to race against Olympians and WorldTour riders. And now here’s a chance for me to help a young rider who maybe has dreams of doing what I do, someday.”

She’s confident that the Hoppers will bloom wherever they’re planted. Spectacular as it is, Sonoma County has no monopoly on gorgeous Northern California scenery. And Crawford, she believes, has created “this, like, magic potion,” of elements, including the chance for pros to race hard “but not take everything so seriously,” and for up-and-coming riders to rub elbows with the pros.

“It’s just the right mix. We’re all drawn to it.”

Who loves a Hopper?

The front row of any Hopper sendoff has long bristled with world-class talent. Here are some of the big names who’ve suffered for vertical gain in the hills of western Sonoma County.

Mountain bike world champions: Chris Blevins, Kate Courtney

WorldTour road racers: Katie Hall, Ted King, Levi Leipheimer, Peter Stetina, Alison Tetrick Laurens ten Dam

Olympians: Geoff Kabush, Katerina Nash, Flavia Oliveira, Max Plaxton

Local rising stars: Luke Lamperti, Ian Lopez de San Roman, Vida Lopez de San Roman

Where to Eat Right Now in Sonoma County

Baked goods at downtown Sonoma’s new Monday Bakery. (Sakhon Nhek/Courtesy of Monday Bakery)

Dining editor Heather Irwin picks three top spots for dining out in Sonoma County as spring arrives. Click through the above gallery for a peek at a few favorite dishes at each restaurant.

Golden Bear Station

Chef Joshua Smookler tested nearly 100 pizza doughs for his new restaurant, and he’s still tweaking the recipe. The moisture, the flour, the “secret ingredient” he declines to share, the temperature of the wood-fired oven, and even the weather are all critical to the final result—a crust dotted with leopard spots, neither too burnt nor too raw, but just right.

Golden Bear Station, which Smookler owns with his wife, Heidy He, is a departure for the couple, who opened the critically acclaimed Animo in downtown Sonoma in 2022. While that now-shuttered dining experience focused on livefire cooking with luxe ingredients and Mediterranean and Korean influences, Golden Bear Station pays homage to Italy. Mostly.

Smookler and He shrug off being pigeon-holed into specific categories, and the new menu, which leans heavily on gourmet pizzas and pasta, also includes a hamburger, a tuna crudo starter, and a $155 whole lamb saddle, which must be ordered ahead of time. The scallops tiradito starter riffs on Peruvian-style crudo, with raw scallops thinly sliced into disks and stacked in basil oil, green tomato, and finger limes—a flavor bomb of sweet mollusk, tart citrus, and aromatic vegetal notes. The couple have also reprised the Asian-inspired pork chop in umami-laden dashi broth and lobster in XO sauce with lemongrass tea previously on the Animo menu. (Animo is slated to reopen in 2024 with a new concept.)

A Burger Named Harlan from the Golden Bear Station Thursday, January 11, 2023 on Hwy 12 in Kenwood. (Photo John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
A Burger Named Harlan from the Golden Bear Station in Kenwood. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Lobster XO with a table side pour of shiitake lemongrass tea over sushi rice from the Golden Bear Station Thursday, January 11, 2023 on Hwy 12 in Kenwood. (Photo John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Lobster XO with a table side pour of shiitake lemongrass tea over sushi rice from the Golden Bear Station in Kenwood. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

What brings this diverse set of offerings together is just how extraordinary everything is. Take the classic cacio e pepe , a classic bucatini pasta. Here, the dish is elevated with seven different kinds of pepper, giving it a spicy punch that lingers on the tongue. There’s an option to add fresh uni, which lends a creamy, briny, sweet accent, further elevating the dish. Pasta Bolognese is equally impressive, with a meat and tomato sauce that sticks to every centimeter of the fresh, housemade paccheri pasta (a larger, wider sibling of rigatoni).

Pizzas are a highlight, perfectly cooked without any bitter notes of char. The soft, chewy dough has a puffed crust and a thin but sturdy middle that holds on to ingredients rather than letting them all slide off. The best bet is the Boscaiola pie, topped with fresh mushrooms, sharp fontina cheese, and truffles, though the classic Margherita also shines.

Smookler and He’s shared passion for exhaustive research, even on the simplest of dishes, sets Golden Bear Station apart. As the menu continues to evolve, the amount of time and passion the couple invest in their practice is sure to lead to many more equally revelatory dishes.

8445 Hwy. 12, Kenwood. goldenbearstation.com

Monday Bakery

There is no tidy way to eat kouign-amann, the sweet but complicated cousin of the croissant. This crisp, buttery, caramelized French pastry explodes into a million tiny pieces of sugar and dough at the mere suggestion that you might eat it; napkins are useless against its many layers; and it laughs at your attempts to wipe the buttery crumbs from your face and hands.

And somehow, that is my warped rationale for eating one while driving away from Sonoma’s Monday Bakery. No matter what, it’s making a mess. Why not enjoy the ride?

The downtown bakery, owned by Sally Geftakys, crafts super-sized versions of kouign-amann (pronounced “queen-uh-man”), roughly translated from French as “you will be wearing these pastry crumbs for several days.” With crunchy petals of laminated dough and an airy honeycomb interior, they’re worth every bit of mess, hassle, and calorie (your hands will smell like a pat of butter for several hours).

Cheerful spring vibes at downtown Sonoma's new Monday Bakery. (Sakhon Nhek/Courtesy of Monday Bakery)
Cheerful spring vibes at downtown Sonoma’s new Monday Bakery. (Sakhon Nhek/Courtesy of Monday Bakery)

Geftakys, a CIA Greystone graduate and passionate baker, launched Monday Bakery at local farmers markets and pop-ups in 2017. But after finding a ravenous audience for her seasonally inspired sweet and savory pastries, she opened a storefront in downtown Napa in 2019, followed by this new Sonoma location in late 2023.

Seasonal ingredients like pears, apples, and berries fill scones and turnovers; ham, cheese, or chocolate are hidden inside fat croissants; and muffins, cookies, and quiche beckon from the glass display case. Premade sandwiches on fluffy baguettes are ready to grab and go. Nutella-frosted banana bread is a revelation—and the only way I’ll ever enjoy it again.

I’ll be cleaning the crumbs from my car upholstery for weeks, but life is too short not to dive into a messy bag of pastries immediately and without regret.

117 E. Napa St., Sonoma. 707-699-2960mondaybakery.com

de Havilland

For nearly 13 years, chef Mark Malicki spent his Friday, Saturday, and Sunday nights cooking in a closet-sized kitchen at the Casino Bar & Grill in Bodega. Inside that kitchen was a two-burner stove, a flat-top grill, and a refrigerator drawer—not exactly a dream setup for a chef.

But somehow, Malicki made it work, serving up decidedly un-barlike dishes like short rib goulash with mushroom gratin, Dungeness crab from nearby Bodega Bay, buttermilk fried rabbit with rémoulade sauce, or Wagyu beef with foraged chanterelle mushrooms. Without the financial pressures of a brick-and-mortar space, Malicki thrived in the remote west county town as a culinary curiosity— an off-the-beaten-path food destination beloved by insiders, but mostly ignored by the Michelin-star obsessed.

Chef Mark Malicki operates his de Havilland pop-up at Tea Room Cafe in Petaluma. Photo taken in Petaluma on Friday, January 12, 2024. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
Chef Mark Malicki operates his de Havilland pop-up at Tea Room Cafe in Petaluma. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

Now 64, Malicki says he was ready for a change, something closer to home, with a more expansive kitchen. After leaving the Casino last year, he created de Havilland, which takes over Petaluma’s Tea Room Cafe three nights a week, Thursday through Saturday. It’s a through line for Malicki’s deep-rooted passion for, well, whatever he’s passionate about at the moment—whether that’s frying latkes in Chinese scallion oil, feeding crab boat workers facing a deferred season, cooking for a fundraiser, or sharing a produce haul from his favorite farmer.

What you’ll experience will likely be a surprise, unless you follow Malicki’s Instagram (@malle.mal), where he posts the evening’s dishes along with observations and insights. There’s often a theme, but sometimes there isn’t, and it’s better not to go with any expectations. Just put yourselves into Malicki’s hands, and enjoy being treated to de Havilland’s wild, wonderful, heartfelt, idealistic, perfectly imperfect world.

316 Western Ave., Petaluma. 707-623-5141, cafedehavilland.com