The Next Big Cheese

Lisa Gottreich, cheesemaker of Bohemian Creamery, who makes some very creative cheeses from goat, sheep and cow’s milk in a former milking barn in Sebastopol. (photo by Chris Hardy)

Outside of Bohemian Creamery in Sebastopol, a herd of goats grazes and gazes over the grassy plains of the Laguna de Santa Rosa, all the way to the sloping shoulders of Mount St. Helena.

But inside the former milking barn, cheesemaker Lisa Gottreich doesn’t have time to enjoy the panorama. She is too busy monitoring the stainless steel cheese vat, where 220 pounds of coagulated cow’s milk wait to be cut by hand.

“This is the only time you see a cheesemaker move,” Gottreich said, carefully lowering the curd knife — a large paddle with horizontal wires — in order to cut the curds and extract the solids from the whey.

Over the course of the next few hours, the 52-year-old never seems to stop moving, her hands a blur of molding and draining, rinsing and mopping.

“I used to have a desk job, so I’m sick of sitting,” she said. “I like scrubbing the floor because you get instant results. It’s not like making cheese, which takes months and months.”

After the curds are sliced vertically, Gottreich and her assistant quickly scoop them into colanders and plop them down on stainless steel tables, where the liquid whey runs off into buckets.

That evening, the solid curds will be pressed, then flipped and pressed again, all to extract as much whey as possible, before going into a brine bath for the next two months.

That’s when this batch of soft, rich Boho Belle cheese, reminiscent of the Bel Paese cheese of Lombardy, Italy, will emerge at the Healdsburg Cheese Shop and at restaurants all over the Bay Area.

While most chefs serve Bohemian Creamery cheeses on cheese plates, some, like Berkeley’s Chez Panisse, use them in dishes, from French onion soup to ravioli.

“What I love about Lisa is that she is very creative and passionate,” said chef Dustin Valette, who showcases Bohemian Creamery cheeses at the Dry Creek Kitchen in Healdsburg. “She’s a chef’s cheesemaker.”

Gottreich is part of a new wave of Sonoma County cheesemakers joining veterans such as Bellwether Farms and Redwood Hill Farm in raising the bar for the North Bay’s array of cheeses.

Like a Wine Country chef, Gottreich will give a classic cheese her own twist. Her first cheese, Capriago, is a play on Italy’s semifirm Asiago cheese, but made with goat’s instead of cow’s milk. Her sweet and nutty Cowabunga showcases a thin ribbon of cajeta (goat’s milk caramel) running through it.

“I’m using Cowabunga right now at the restaurant,” Valette said. “It’s a sweet, sticky goat cheese inside, and a fresh, briny cow’s milk flavor on the outside.”

Gottreich uses Russian River Brewing Company’s Consecration, an ale aged in Cabernet Sauvignon barrels, to wash the rinds of The Bomb, a sheep-goat blend fashioned after France’s stinky Epoisses cheese. HolyMoly, a soft-ripened goat cheese with lots of eyes (holes), also gets a Consecration wash.

Like many cheesemakers, Gottreich fell into the field by accident, after pursuing a string of careers. “I’m basically unemployable,” she said. “Whatever I do, I have to do it for myself.”

The daughter of immigrants from Hungary and Sweden, Gottreich grew up in Bolinas in West Marin, surrounded by goats and other farm animals.

She majored in economics and philosophy at UC Berkeley, studied abroad in Padua, Italy, then returned to Italy to work in film. After graduate studies in European Integration in Washington, D.C., she worked on trade issues with the U.S. and the European Union.

Lisa Gottreich and her assistant, Lauren Helvajian, stir the curd to break up larger clumps so it can cook evenly. (photo by Chris Hardy)

All the while, she was exploring cheese, eventually taking the plunge into production after a sudden divorce left her with two kids to raise.

“I like it because it’s multifaceted,” she said. “I take care of my goats for a while, then I make cheese, and then I schmooze with chefs.”

Starting out in 2008 with a leased vat in the town of Bodega, Gottreich expanded two years later to her current Sebastopol digs, just a minute from her home. She credits her creativity to her ingrained “stubbornness.”

“I ask, ‘What can’t be done?’” she said. “And then I try to make it happen.”

One of her new experiments involves a “surf and turf” cheese, featuring dried, toasted seaweed culled from the Sonoma Coast.

Also in the works is a tasting room where visitors can purchase her cheeses and take a tour of the aging rooms, where Gottreich works her magic in the mysterious ripening process known as affinage.

“If you’re a piece of cheese, it’s in your intent to grow old,” Gottreich said. “It’s nice to work with something where age is respected.”

Wine Apps

When’s the last time you saw someone in a tasting room poring over a folder of printouts, or better yet a travel guide, while planning their next winery stop?

Probably the last time you saw an actual foldable map.

It doesn’t happen. You take your last sip, consult your smartphone and you’re off to the next tasting room.

But Sonoma wine apps land all over the “map”: One is great for wine-tasting deals, another takes you on virtual video tours and another has the “jammy, oaky, fruit-forward” lexicon you want to try out on every pourer.

Until someone puts it all together in one simple interface, here is a quick scroll through some of the best free Sonoma wine apps:

Tasting Passes
The gist: Imagine Groupon for wine tasting that covers both Sonoma and Napa. Recent deals offered a 2-for-1 mountaintop tasting at Kunde Family Estate in Kenwood and a tasting of seven wines for $10 at Fritz Underground Winery in Cloverdale.
Random detail: “Bad Driving in Napa Valley” video
Use it for: Saving on tasting fees.

iVisit Sonoma County
The gist: Wineries are only a small part of this app and it’s more of a laundry list from A-Z, but it does tell you if a winery is pet-friendly, or grows its grapes organically, or if it offers tours.
Random detail: Dry Creek General Store listed under “Breweries”
Use it for: The bigger picture, like when you want to unwine and drink a locally brewed beer, unwind at a spa, go to a museum or hit the links.

Wine Road
The gist: Great maps, quick access to information on Wine Road events such as Barrel Tasting and Winter WINEland, and beginners can pick up tips in the Wine 101 section.
Random detail: List of wine tasting terms, which includes “musty,” “sweaty” and “blood”
Use it for: The lay of the land and quick-hit Food & Wine magazine picks.

Wineries of Dry Creek Valley
The gist: One of the best single-valley apps, with a clever wine-wheel layout and decent dining blurbs.
Random detail: Big shoutout for the Sonoma County Wine Library under “Activities”
Use it for: The specials, such as this recent Dry Creek Vineyard winery deal: “Mention this app and receive wine club benefits for the day”; and the carefully selected Dog Friendly Trail and Green Trail of organic and Biodynamic wineries.

Prepare to Launch!

Seth Schwebs, left sets a kite aloft while Temesgen Schwebs, Steven Johansen and Kristen Schwebs share snacks during a hiking break at the Taylor Mountain Open Space in Santa Rosa. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)

Go fly a kite. And that’s meant in the nicest way possible.

“There is something fascinating about watching them float in the sky,” said Lynette Gosch, co-owner of Second Wind, one of, yes, two kites shops in the tiny town of Bodega Bay. “People like to look at them; they’re attracted to them. They give people a sense of being free.”

Fliers can experience the same feeling, a meditative calm that comes from gazing at open skies, hearing the flapping of the soaring sails, and experiencing the tension and quivers of the kite’s strings or controls in their hands.

The windy Sonoma Coast has emerged as one of the nation’s best-known spots for kite flying, welcoming both the casual, lazy-days-of-childhood fliers and the highly competitive sporting types, who seek an adrenaline rush instead of a calming peace. “We didn’t get the name ‘Blow-dega Bay’ for nothing,” Gosch said. “You frequently have good winds and we have some good, accessible beaches.”

Flying a kite at Dillon Beach. (photo by Chris Chung)
Flying a kite at Dillon Beach. (photo by Chris Chung)

A favorite spot is Doran Regional Park, which features a wide beach facing the relatively calm bay, with no power lines or trees to disrupt flight.

“It’s a great way to spend a day out in nature. … It’s just a great escape,” said David Love, co-owner of Candy & Kites, the other kite store in town.

Flying kites is one of those pastimes that can appeal to people of all levels of skill. It requires a modest initial investment and getting started is not difficult, though competitive kite flying, using huge two- and four-line stunt kites, can be strenuous. “We call it a workout in a bag,” Gosch said.

So popular is the kite sport on the coast that Doran Regional Park has hosted the Castle and Kites festival for nine years, an exhibition of both kite flying and sandcastle making. Scheduled for May 3 at the park, the event is free, but parking is limited and subject to a $7 day-use charge.

Both kite shops will have displays, and Second Wind plans to have a sales booth and will have its competitive kite-flying team on hand to offer lessons to fliers of all skill levels and degrees of seriousness. Kite legend Dodd Gross, a champion flier and kite designer, will be at the festival, giving tips and meeting fans.

For more information on the sport of kite flying, check out the American Kitefliers Association at kite.org.

Spring wines to like

The days are longer and the light brighter, igniting the urge to get outdoors into air that’s fresh and invigorating. Easter brunch on a lovely patio might be the ticket. These wines will add to all sorts of spring dalliances.

Petite Sirah for St. Patrick’s Day

If you like:

Stags’ Leap Winery 2010 Ne Cede Malis Estate Grown Stags Leap District Petite Sirah ($80)
As brooding as a young Liam Neeson, this wine will gain layers of complexity as it ages, taking on power and nuance in equal parts. With supple, dark blueberry fruit and sensuous tannins, this is among Napa Valley’s greatest portrayals of Petite Sirah. Ne Cede Malis is Latin for “Don’t give in to misfortune.”

Then try:

Ridge 2007 Dynamite Hill California Petite Sirah ($32)
Part of Petite Sirah’s beauty is its ability to age, so getting your mitts on this 2007 vintage from Fritz Maytag’s York Creek Vineyard on Spring Mountain in Napa Valley is highly recommended. It affords a fortunate chance to get a delicious education in a red wine with softened tannins, proper white pepper and mature fruit. Pair with spring lamb.

Albariño for daylight savings time

If you like:

Marimar Estate 2012 Don Miguel Vineyard Russian River Valley Albariño ($32)
The winery’s third vintage of this iconic Spanish white (and the right go-to when there’s an extra hour of sunlight in the evening), the Don Miguel Albariño is a celebration of citrus in all its natural acidity, with pretty floral aromatics accenting the medium-bodied experience from start to finish. To pair? Think fresh fish.

Then try:

Schulz Cellars 2012 Dragone Vineyard Calaveras County Albariño ($20)
Sourced from the Sierra Foothills, this crisp Albariño offers floral scents and a taste of bright citrus and textured apple. Fresh and enjoyable, it’s a fine match at dusk with shellfish and appetizers. Sonoma-based Schulz is family-run; John Schulz doubles as the national sales director for Dutton-Goldfield in Russian River Valley.

Viognier for springs beginnings

If you like:

Freemark Abbey 2012 Napa Valley Viognier ($32)
A wine rich in tropical fruit tones and a finish of toast and vanillin oak, this is a powerhouse Viognier that’s still buoyant in acidity. It comes from a producer with a consistently good track record with the grape. Pair this wine with chicken, fish or a brunch meal built around ham and buttery eggs.

Then try:

Bonterra 2012 Mendocino County Viognier ($14)
Made from organically grown grapes, this is a delicious and easygoing Viognier with flavors of fresh apricot and lemon-lime. It’s multitalented as a porch sipper and also an accompaniment to spicy dishes and seafood.

Pinot Noir for Earth Day

If you like:

Siduri 2012 Keefer Ranch Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($52)
Siduri has made wine from the famed Keefer Ranch since 2000, one of its longest-standing sites. Gorgeously floral, this Pinot also has an earthy personality that would please John Muir. It’s exquisite as a sipper and pairs handsomely with mushroom- and herb-accented dishes.

Then try:

Siduri 2012 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($32)
Blended from multiple sites within the vast Russian River Valley, this is a tremendous wine and a tremendous deal, fruit-forward and lush in red cherry and cola flavors, with plenty of earth and herb nuances.

#NotInKansasAnymore

Lisa Mattson, author of “The Exes in My iPod,” at Jordan Winery in Healdsburg on Wednesday, Dec. 18, 2013. (Conner Jay/The Press Democrat)

Come for the “Gangnam Style,” stay for the wine. That could have been the hook when thousands of newcomers clicked on Jordan Vineyard & Winery’s “Gangnam Style” video spoof that featured CEO John Jordan on the giddyup in 2012.

But Lisa Mattson, the auteur behind the camera, was up to so much more. It was more like, stay for the French macaron cookie-making video, the vineyard time-lapse footage and the spooky night harvest horror flick, all on her “Journey of Jordan Winery” blog.

A social-media maven with cinematic flair, Mattson, 39, has single-handedly upped the ante when it comes to winery promotion on the Web.

The same creativity fuels her own pursuits. Mattson’s new novel, “The Exes in My iPod: A Playlist of the Men Who Rocked Me to Wine Country,” is a thinly veiled retelling of her former life waitressing and falling in (and out) of love in Miami in the 1990s. Published in paperback, iPod, e-book and mobile-phone editions, “Exes” follows Harley Aberle’s romantic escapades and associates them with certain songs playing on her iPod.

“It’s based on a lot of the things I went through, but at some point I decided to turn it into a novel, create a main character and change things up,” she said. “And for exes that were upset about me writing the book: You’re not Cuban anymore, you’re Puerto Rican. Nobody’s going to know.”

When Mattson first started at Jordan in 2010 (after stints directing public relations and events programs for other wine companies), all she knew about the Alexander Valley winery was that “It was this pretty chateau on the hill that makes Chardonnay and Cabernet,” she explained. “I wasn’t even sure if there were actual Jordans behind the brand. Once I figured it out, I thought it was this huge opportunity.”

For a 4-H Club girl who grew up in a small Kansas town with just one stoplight, Mattson’s come a long way.

“When we first started in 2010 (at Jordan), I’d never operated a camera,” she said. Now she’s setting up elaborate shoots just like any independent film crew.

Not surprisingly, the awards have rolled in, including Best Winery Blog at the 2012 and 2013 Wine Blog Awards, and several finalist nominations for best video in the annual Wine Spectator magazine video contest.

One of the latest Jordan viral videos is “Blurred Vines,” a Wine Country take on Robin Thicke’s “Blurred Lines” music video (go to blog.jordanwinery.com and click on “Our most popular videos”).

“It allows people to see us as normal people who like to have fun,” Mattson said. “We get a lot of feedback in the comments or from people visiting the winery who say, ‘I saw your “Gangnam Style” video or “Blurred Vines” and I knew I had to come to this winery.’”

N.Y. vibe in Napa

An artist’s rendering shows the restaurant and wine bar at City Winery Napa; (opposite) the entry of the 1880 Napa Valley Opera House, which will become City Winery Napa.

Napa, you are now officially cool.

City Winery, a buzzed-about New York City winemaking facility, restaurant, wine bar and concert hall, lights up its first West Coast marquee in downtown Napa in early April, adding another layer of style and sophistication to a city making an energetic recovery from dreariness.

Taking over the 134-year-old Napa Valley Opera House, City Winery Napa promises a 300-seat concert space, state-of-the-art sound system, 100-seat restaurant and wine bar. More than 400 wines will be available by the bottle and 35 by the glass, served from kegs. Among the performers scheduled to appear in the first half of 2014: Bruce Cockburn, Leo Kottke, Maria Muldaur and comic Lewis Black.

The Napa Valley Opera House in Napa. (The Press Democrat / Crista Jeremiason )
The Napa Valley Opera House in Napa. (The Press Democrat / Crista Jeremiason)

But there will be no winery at City Winery Napa. New York impresario Michael Dorf, who created City Winery in New York in 2008 and added a Chicago location in 2012, offers regular folks the opportunity to have their own wines made for them at those sites. But Dorf figures there’s enough winemaking going on in Napa Valley as it is, and will leave the hose-dragging and barrel-rolling to the established pros.

Dorf has a 10-year lease on the opera house. Built in 1880, it was shuttered from 1914 to 2003, reopening after an extensive renovation. The grand edifice on Main Street became a source of civic pride and a keystone in the transformation of downtown Napa from drab to upbeat, with new restaurants, hotels, galleries and tasting rooms opening in rapid fire.

But the Napa Valley Opera House struggled through the recession, and in 2013, its directors learned that Dorf was searching Napa Valley for a City Winery site. They proposed sharing the building with him, impressed by his ability to attract top-name acts and the profit-generation potential of continuous food and drink sales, even on dates when the concert hall is dark.

Dorf’s lease allows for 300 City Winery performance dates per year, 75 of which are reserved for the opera house’s own community-based programs. Weddings and other private parties can book the venue, and wine- and food-focused events are also in the works.

Opera house regulars will notice some design changes. The downstairs has been retooled to accommodate the restaurant, and the sloped floor of the second-story Margrit Biever Mondavi Theatre is now flat, its row seats replaced by cocktail tables and chairs so that concert-goers can eat and drink during shows.

Of course, the announcement of City Winery’s lease for the building didn’t sit well with everyone in Napa. Some feared that Dorf was installing a noisy nightclub or cabaret; others accused him of killing their opera house.

His response? “We are not about the ‘destruction of the opera house,’ as some have speculated, but rather about helping the venue do more of what it was designed to do: creating a lifelong memory of an experience involving all of the senses, and reaching as many people as possible.”

Napa will be all the hipper for it.

Something for Everyone – Oxbow Public Market

Visitors walk between the shops at Oxbow Public Market in Napa, Calif., on Jan. 8, 2014. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)

Stop in at the Oxbow Public Market in Napa any time of day or evening and it’ll be bustling with shoppers and diners, a draw for those looking to make an epicurean connection.

Since opening in December 2007, Oxbow is widely credited as having succeeded where its higher-profile former neighbor, Copia, failed.

The 40,000-square-foot indoor marketplace is inviting to tourists and also serves locals as a community hangout. Copia, which debuted with a high-end museum concept and never found its footing, closed within a month of Oxbow’s opening. A few vendors have come and gone since Oxbow’s debut, yet today, the venue is as vital as ever.

Anyone can wander in and enjoy the market’s range of delights, which includes a chocolate shop, butcher shops, oyster bar, wine shop, seafood purveyor, bakeries, florist, local honey, organic ice cream, a coffee roaster, tea and spice shops, a micro-distillery and many worthwhile eateries, from chef Todd Humphries’ expansive Kitchen Door to Napa Valley’s revered gourmet hamburger haven, Gott’s Roadside.

Founded by Steve Carlin, who also developed the Ferry Building Marketplace in San Francisco, Oxbow draws 1 million visitors a year. With 24 merchants, it lures residents to come again and again by hosting weekly Locals’ Nights (Tuesdays) and a seasonal farmers market (Tuesdays and Saturdays, May through October).

Locals like to sit on the back patio overlooking the Napa River and enjoy a glass of wine from the Oxbow Cheese & Wine Merchant, which also serves draft beer, cheese and charcuterie. Hog Island Oyster Bar is nearby. Kara’s Cupcakes bakes new flavors throughout the day, tempting desirers of sweet treats from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Dining options include C Casa, chef/owner Catherine Bergen’s Latin cuisine mecca, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, its menu gluten-free. Newer still is Cate & Co., Bergen’s gluten-free bake shop, which opened in December.

Ca’ Momi is both a full-service restaurant and wine bar with indoor and outdoor seating; its pizzeria is Vera Pizza Napoletana-certified. Ca’ Momi is also a traditional Italian pasticceria.

Pica Pica Arepa Kitchen high-lights Venezuelan cuisine. The Fatted Calf and Five Dot Ranch ensure well-raised meat is always available, while Kanaloa Seafood is a full-service place to buy locally caught fish and shellfish, run by a Ph.D. biologist and former Scripps Institute of Oceanography researcher.

Many Napans like to start their day at Ritual Coffee Roasters for single-drip cups of carefully picked and roasted coffee. Tillerman Tea serves the same purpose for loose-leafed teas.

Tiny Napa Valley Distillery carries micro-batch spirits, shrubs, tonics, syrups and bitters from around the world, and also sells its signature Napa Vodka Vintage Reserve made from Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc, barrel-aged cocktails and seasonal liqueurs.

Vessels That Beckon

Unless you’re an aficionado, the wine aisle can be a daunting place. Columns of glass soldiers stand silently, unflinching as Buckingham Palace guards and without so much as a wink that says, “Pick me.” With hundreds, and sometimes thousands, of wines on store shelves, it’s no wonder some would-be buyers run for cover.

Marketing minds say that getting a customer to pick up a wine bottle is half the battle; once it’s touched, the chance of that bottle going into the shopping cart is high. How the bottle looks is just as important as the taste of the drink inside (there are very few “bad” wines these days), so wineries seek to create eye-catching labels and vessel shapes to impress younger wine drinkers, and the young at heart, who are unexcited by Chateau This and Domaine That. If it looks cool, it’s cool to drink.

Healdsburg’s Truett-Hurst Wines is at the forefront of producing wines with quirky, cutting-edge, evocative packaging. While most of the company’s 30 brands come in traditional glass bottles with paper labels, it has a division devoted to finding avant-garde ways to present wines in chain stores such as Safeway and Total Wine.

Two years ago, Truett-Hurst launched a series of 10 wines at Safeway stores, each variety wrapped in wildly illustrated paper that tells a story about the wine, includes a recipe, or makes suggestions for what to serve with the wine. The wrap for Schucks White Wine, for example, has fish swimming around the bottle, suggesting that it goes with seafood.

Then came California Square wines in, yes, square-sided glass bottles reminiscent of old-time spirits and hair tonic. Ever so tongue in cheek, Truett-Hurst marketers claim that the California Square bottle is not only recyclable, it’s reusable (and thus green), and suggest using it as a vase, water carafe or olive oil container once the bottle is empty. California Square Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and a red blend ($20), appear to target the wine drinker furnishing his or her first apartment.

Late 2013 saw Truett-Hurst’s delivery of Paper Boy, which it says is the world’s first paper wine bottle. It has a recycled cardboard shell in the shape of a wine bottle, with a plastic bladder inside holding the wine (Mendocino County Chardonnay and Paso Robles red blend, each $15). At 1.5 pounds for a 750-ml “bottle,” Paper Boy is significantly lighter than a standard glass bottle (3 to 4 pounds) and is 67 percent more efficient in its production carbon footprint. All of its parts are recyclable.

Green is good, of course, and the unbreakable bottle makes Paper Boy easy to put in a backpack or tote to the beach or tailgate party. The same is true for Flasq Wine in St. Helena, which fills sleek 375-ml, brushed-aluminum cans with Chardonnay and Merlot made from California grapes. Each Flasq ($5 to $6), which holds two glasses of wine, is shatterproof, chills wine five times faster than glass, reduces carbon footprint 35 percent due to its light weight, and has the sporty look one would be proud to display on the golf course, after a hike or out on the ocean. Think of it as wine in beer clothing.

When it comes to taste, these wines won’t bowl over the critics, yet they’re well-made, easy to drink and fairly priced. They don’t just wink. They shout, “Pick me!”

Daffodils: Bundles of Sunshine

Daffodils along River Rd. (photo by John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

On the cusp of spring they start poking their heads from the soil, arriving in jaunty clumps, cancan lines or in large conventions crowding an entire meadow or hillside.

Daffodils aren’t bashful as are many wildflowers that hide in woodlands and swales. Instead, they act as the brass band of springtime, marching into the awakening landscape often well before the rhododendrons and tulips, with trumpets of yellow, white and sometimes pink and orange.

“They’re the first sign of spring and they just jump out of nowhere,” said Merle Reuser, Sonoma County’s unofficial “Daffodil King.” For some 57 springs, Reuser has given away thousands of daffodils harvested from the ranch of his lifelong mentor, Margaret Adams, as a way of spreading cheer and honoring the memory of people beloved in the community. “They’re an instant upper.”

When Reuser was a small boy, Adams, who lived on a neighboring ranch in Cloverdale, instructed him to pluck daffodils from her property, which was overrun with bulbs planted generations earlier by pioneers. She then told him to take the blooms to town to give away to friends and strangers, in random acts of kindness.

“I would go down with all the flowers I could carry and just walk around the street and give them out,” Reuser said.

Adams died in 2000 at age 104. Reuser, 66, carries on his task of delivering bouquets of spring sunshine. Among his key recipients are students at Cloverdale High School. One day each March, he greets students flooding into the cafeteria for lunch and passes out some 200 bouquets in memory of Courtney Davis, a sunny-tempered 16-year-old who died of cancer in 2008.

Daffodils along River Road in the Russian River Valley. (photo by Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Daffodils along River Road in the Russian River Valley. (photo by Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)

Each year he digs up clumps of bulbs, separates them and replants them on a dozen different properties around the county, the Johnny Appleseed of daffodils.

The severe drought may put a damper on this year’s daffodil display. It’s a game of wait and see, though it’s likely that determined bulbs will make an appearance.

“I just don’t know how long they’re going to last without rain,” said Marde Ross, the “Daffodil Lady” who has planted approximately 200,000 bulbs on the hillsides surrounding her Glen Ellen cottage. Starting in midwinter with the slender little February golds, her daffodil show features some 15 varieties that arrive in succession through April. For determined daffodil spotters, Ross, who sells bulbs, invites folks, by appointment, to walk along her bluestone-lined path through the daffodil fields (mardeross.com).

Another good place to ogle daffodils and tulips are the gardens at Ferrari-Carano winery on Dry Creek Road in Healdsburg (garden hotline: 707-433-5349).

It was the late Saralee Kunde, head cheerleader for local agriculture, who first brought daffodils to Sonoma County in a big, splashy, public way. More than 20 years ago she dreamed up the idea of beautifying the neighborhood around her Slusser Road vineyard estate in Windsor with daffodils as a way of attracting visitors to area farms and tasting rooms during an otherwise bleak time of year.

Kunde eventually enlisted some two dozen wineries, landowners and organizations to buy and plant bulbs to help turn Highway 101 from River Road to Fulton, and River Road to Forestville and beyond, into a blazing yellow palette. Tons of daffodil bulbs went into every sorry weed patch Kunde could find.

Theft and time have diminished the show. But some daffodils remain in legacy to the diva of daffodils, who saw them as a way of ushering in a new growing season as sure as bud break in the vineyards.

They’re a symbol of hope and a sign of perseverance. That beauty prevails, is their message.

Charlie Palmer brings dinner home (w/video)

Palmer shoots at a pheasant with chef Dustin Valette, of Dry Creek Kitchen in Healdsburg. (photo by Chris Hardy)

If you run into Charlie Palmer at the Dry Creek Kitchen in Healdsburg, chances are the tall, imposing chef will be buttoned up in a crisp chef’s jacket or white Oxford dress shirt.

But scratch the surface of this well-known hospitality entrepreneur — with 12 restaurants to his name and a growing collection of boutique hotels and wine shops across the nation — and you’ll find a country boy at heart.

Whether fly-fishing on Colorado’s Laramie River or stalking the scrappy pheasant in Sonoma with Dry Creek Kitchen executive chef Dustin Valette, Palmer likes to relax in the colorful costume of the avid outdoorsman: jeans, red cap and camouflage jacket.

Thanks to the locavore movement, people increasingly want to know how their food is grown and raised. More and more hunters are motivated by the promise of high-flavor meat than they are by the sport alone.

But not everyone knows the best way to cook partridge and rabbit, venison and elk. And from a chef’s point of view, that’s a problem.

Charlie's dog, Bob, returning a downed pheasant. (photo by Chris Hardy)
Charlie’s dog, Bob, returning a downed pheasant. (photo by Chris Hardy)

“You’ve got all these people who are into hunting and fishing, but they don’t know what to do with the stuff they catch,” Palmer said. “If you kill it, you eat it.”

So when the gun-manufacturing company Remington Arms went looking for a chef to collaborate on a new cookbook, it didn’t take long to flush Palmer out of his home in the forested hills above Healdsburg.

After all, the project spoke to Palmer’s two greatest passions: the primal pleasure of eating in the outdoors, and the sourcing of the very best ingredients from around the world.

“Eating in nature, from nature, means eating mindfully within seasonal harvests, using simple dishes enhanced by vivid flavors,” Palmer said.

This ain’t your grandma’s recipe box, and it’s not your average celebrity chef cookbook, either.

Illustrated with rustic photographs and paintings from the archives and art collection at Remington Arms, “Remington Camp Cooking” by Charlie Palmer has the luxurious feel of a family keepsake, with a soft leather cover and flexible spine.

Yet it’s rustic enough to throw in the back of a pickup truck with the guns and ammo.

Chef Charlie Palmer deglases his cooked pheasant at his house with Dustin Valette, chef at Dry Creek Kitchen. (photo by Chris Hardy)
Chef Charlie Palmer deglases his cooked pheasant at his house with Dustin Valette, chef at Dry Creek Kitchen. (photo by Chris Hardy)

“The more you get oil on it, the better the book is going to feel,” Palmer said. “It’s not aimed at our restaurant clientele, but at the outdoorsman.”

With the help of Valette, also a lifelong outdoors enthusiast, Palmer developed a mouthwatering array of recipes to appeal to anyone who believes food tastes better when enjoyed in the great outdoors.

“There’s not a lot out there about cooking in the outdoors … at least, not a lot that’s usable,” Palmer said. “Most of it is Uncle Joe’s recipe, and you soak it in Coca-Cola.”

From a Duck Meatball Banh Mi to Trout in Foil with Lemon-Sage Butter, the recipes marry the elegant with the accessible. They can be made by anyone with access to a grill, campfire or Dutch oven.

“The recipes could be done anywhere,” Palmer said. “But the focus is how to be a more successful outdoor cook, whether you’re cooking over a fire pit, grilling or tailgating.”

Palmer, who grew up in upstate New York and trained at the Culinary Institute of America at Hyde Park, N.Y., has been hunting and fishing, cooking and camping, all his life. Most of the practical wisdom he imparts in the book has become second nature to him.

“I got my first shotgun when I was 12,” he said. “My brother would take me trap and skeet shooting with clay pigeons.”

While attending culinary school, he went pheasant hunting with one of his roommates from South Dakota.

“There’s acres and acres of harvest corn just loaded with pheasant,” he said. “It’s a perfect habitat for them.”

Charlie Palmer's pan roasted pheasant. (photo by Chris Hardy)
Charlie Palmer’s pan roasted pheasant. (photo by Chris Hardy)

Before he was married, he also fell in love with deep-sea fishing, chasing the storied blue marlin from the Bahamas to the coast of Venezuela.

And years ago, before A&E’s “Duck Dynasty” TV show was a glint in the eye of its creator, Palmer was invited to Louisiana’s bayou to shoot a hunting show with Eli Haydel, a famous maker of duck calls.

“We took the ducks back and cooked them,” Palmer said. “There was a guy named Big John who was drinking moonshine whiskey, and he had water moccasin scars all over his arm.”

These days, Palmer likes to cook wild game on a fire pit he built outside his house. During the season, he enjoys morning pheasant and chukar (partridge) hunts at a local sport-hunting club in Sonoma County.

“It’s like a preserve,” Palmer said of the rustic club. “It’s amazing that that piece of land is there still, and you can hunt with a dog.”

Valette, who grew up in Geyserville, learned about hunting and fishing from his dad, Robert “Pops” Valette, an air tanker pilot for the California Department of Forestry and Fire Protection.

“We didn’t have TV, so we were always doing something hands-on and outdoosy,” Valette said. “I learned about guns on Ridge Ranch at the Geysers, which is owned by family friends.”

Valette started out with a Red Ryder BB gun, then received an old shotgun from his grandfather. He started quail hunting at 6 and shot his first buck at Mount Lassen when he was 9.

Photo gallery: Charlie Palmer: The Rest of the Story

In the winter, Valette likes to go to the Baxter Ranch at Lake Sonoma to hunt wild boar, then grinds the meat into luscious sausage, following his father’s recipe.

“It’s more natural,” Valette said of range-to-table cooking. “Because the animal is not in captivity, it has a more natural life.”

This spring, Dry Creek Kitchen plans to launch a new 24-seat outdoor annex, the White Oak Grill, with a simple menu inspired by Valette’s oak-wood grilling experience at Baxter Ranch.

“It will add another dimension to the restaurant, with a casual feel to it,” Palmer explained. “We’ll do a simple, grilled menu.”

Like most outdoorsmen, both Valette and Palmer are passionate about taking care of the land, not only for themselves, but for future generations.

“Outdoorsmen, hunters, fishermen and campers — those are the people who are most concerned about the outdoors,” Palmer said. “They understand they have to take care of it … or it won’t be there.”