Page 49 – Sonoma Magazine

Support Sonoma, Napa Wineries and a Good Cause at These Upcoming Events

March 2025

By Carey Sweet

The Stags Leap District Vineyard to Vintner event takes place April 25-27. (Bob McClenahan)

There’s no denying that times are tough for the wine industry right now, with sales declining and some longtime tasting rooms shutting their doors. Last month, St. Helena’s Newton Vineyard and Calistoga’s Twomey closed, followed by family-owned Thumbprint Cellars in Healdsburg (the winery plans to move operations to its rural Geyserville headquarters).

On the positive side, wine remains a major draw for Sonoma and Napa county organizations working to do good and support charitable causes. So far, many local wineries continue to sponsor and take part in fundraising events that ultimately cost them money. Typically, they donate both the wines being poured and those up for auction, all in support of nonprofit organizations.

For wineries, sponsoring fundraising events elevates their brands, expands their reach to a wider audience and provides tax deductions.

For nonprofits, winery sponsorship can boost event participation and markedly increase profits while reducing costs.

Earlier this month, a 9-liter bottle (called a Salmanazar) of 2021 Markham Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon fetched a jaw-dropping $225,000 at the 2025 Champions Wine Auction and Dinner at the NRG Center in Houston, Texas. (Not bad for a bottle that retails for $49 in its 750 ml format!) The event benefited the Houston Rodeo Education Fund, which provides scholarships, grants and educational programs for Texas youth.

The St. Helena winery can now boast the winning bid came from a real estate development group that included recording artist Curtis “50 Cent” Jackson.

Passport to Dry Creek Valley wine event — Celebrate spring in Sonoma Wine Country at the Passport to Dry Creek Valley festival in April. (Charlie Gessell/For Sonoma Magazine)

In addition to fundraising events supporting charitable causes, there are also a number of events throughout the year that directly support wine regions, wine growers and winemakers, including the upcoming Stags Leap District’s Vineyard to Vintner Weekend and the Winegrowers of Dry Creek Valley’s Passport to Dry Creek Valley festival (April 25-27).

Here are a couple of upcoming events where your ticket will support good causes or local wineries while offering entertainment, fine food and, of course, plenty of wine.

Fourth Annual V Foundation for Cancer Research Sonoma Epicurean, March 27-30

The four-day festival in Healdsburg features hands-on experiences with award-winning chefs, local artisans and world-class vintners. It’s so popular that the three-day all-inclusive passes have already sold out ($2,750), but tickets are still available for a few à la carte activities, including the hallmark Gala & Auction at the Montage Healdsburg luxury resort.

The evening offers a lavish, seven-course dinner from Montage executive chef Jason Pringle, showcasing dishes such as guinea hen with snap peas, Thumbelina carrots and sauce Blanquette alongside 2021 Lynmar Estate Sonoma Chardonnay, and Wagyu beef with fondant potato, fava and truffles paired with 2021 Knights Bridge Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.

The Fourth Annual V Foundation for Cancer Research Sonoma Epicurean takes place March 27-30 in Healdsburg. (Will Bucquoy)

Dozens of notable wineries have supplied 20 auction lots for the event, including Windsor’s Bricoleur Vineyards and Cirq, Healdsburg’s Aperture Cellars and Valette Wines, and Sonoma’s Three Sticks Wines. The lots include exclusive activities. The highest bidder on the Aperture lot, for example, will enjoy a vacation at Montage Los Cabos for a private dinner hosted by winery owner and winemaker Jesse Katz.

One of the most popular lots each year is the “Instant Cellar,” a collection of rare, high-end Sonoma County wines, including some that are only available to wine club members. This year, the haul includes 48 different bottles.

Last year, the gala raised $3.4 million for V Foundation for Cancer Research, with 100% of proceeds benefiting the cause. Since its founding in 1993, the nonprofit has funded nearly $400 million in cancer research grants nationwide.

Gala & Auction tickets are $1,500 and are available at sonomaepicurean.v.org.

Stags Leap District’s Vineyard to Vintner Weekend, April 25-27

The Stags Leap American Viticultural Area (AVA) is tiny — just three miles long and one mile wide, with less than two dozen wineries.

Famous for its Cabernet Sauvignon, the appellation includes boutique operations like Malk Family Vineyards, which produces only 800 cases each year, as well as well-known wineries like Baldacci Family Vineyards, Cliff Lede Vineyards, Shafer Vineyards, Stags’ Leap Winery and Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars. The two Stags are different operations, distinguished by the placement of the apostrophe; (the Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 1973 Cabernet Sauvignon won the 1976 Paris Tasting, also known as the “Judgement of Paris”).

To support its wine producers, the appellation has its own nonprofit — The Stags Leap District Winegrowers, an association of vintners and growers who work together to help protect the Napa Valley region, enhance its reputation and boost sales of its wines.

For the past two decades, the organization has hosted an annual fundraising weekend, anchored by the Savor Sunday event ($325), a tour of multiple wineries with special treats at each stop, like the popular poolside pizza party at the hilltop Lindstrom Wines.

For less driving around, the Saturday Taste of the Neighborhood event ($325) is a walking tour, tasting and luncheon in the Regusci Winery gardens that includes dozens of wines, live music and food from new top-notch Napa Valley restaurants Charlie’s, Stateline Road Smokehouse and Violetto.

Tickets are available at stagsleapdistrict.com/V2V.

A Creative Glen Ellen Vintner Makes White Wines From Rustic Italian Reds

March 2025

By Stacy Briscoe

Close-up of a glass of white wine on a wooden table, with green vineyards in the background. Wine tasting, rating, and savoring Mazur Travel/Shutterstock.

Fact: Nearly all grapes have pale-colored pulp inside, even red grapes.

Red wines become red not because of the color of the juice inside the grapes but because of the skins on the outside. When red grapes are crushed and fermented with their outer skins to make a red wine, the heat of that fermentation extracts red color and flavors. Take away those outer skins, and those characteristics no longer play a part in the final wine. In other words, it is possible to make a white wine out of red grapes.

It’s not a new concept. Winemakers have been doing this for ages. In fact, two out of the three main varieties used to make Champagne, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, are red. But leaving the red skins behind to make still white wines from reds is a more recent trend.

Emeritus Vineyards’ Mari Jones was the driving force behind the winery’s white Pinot Noir, produced from its famed Hallberg Ranch. Photo taken in Sebastopol, Wednesday, Sept. 13, 2023. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat) — Emeritus Vineyards’ Mari Jones was the driving force behind the winery’s white Pinot Noir, produced from its famed Hallberg Ranch. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)

still white wines from red Pinot Noir — Shalini Sekhar, winemaker and owner of Ottavino Wines, with a glass of Ottavino 2022 St. Laurent at Sonoma’s Ricci Vineyards. Sekhar has been experimenting with making still white wines from Pinot Noir — essentially a sparkling wine without the fizz. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)

A few local winemakers, including Mari Jones of Emeritus Vineyards in Sebastopol, Shalini Sekhar of Ottavino Wines in Sonoma and Waits-Mast in the Anderson Valley, have been experimenting with making still white wines from Pinot Noir — essentially a sparkling wine without the fizz.

But more recently, Cindy Cosco of Sonoma’s Passaggio Wines has been experimenting with making still white wines from rustic Italian reds like Nebbiolo and Sangiovese.
When Cosco founded the label in 2007, her intent was to be a white wine producer. She’s also made some fantastic reds over the years, but the 2024 portfolio is once again focused primarily on whites. “I’ve come full circle,” she said — but in a more unique and interesting way than she ever thought.

Cosco’s first foray into these whites-from-reds was a happy accident.

“I had done a Cab Franc Blanc for a friend back in 2018 — it was supposed to be a rosé, but it came out white. He sold out, people loved it so much,” she said. “So, I thought, I’ll try it again, but on purpose. And if this last year taught me anything, it’s that people are looking for something different. When you tell them you have a white red, it creates interest.”

Winemakers like Cosco and Jones tweak the production process when working a red into a white wine. The grapes are picked earlier, fermentation temperatures are lower and the winemaking is done in neutral, stainless-steel vessels — no oak. The result is a lighter, higher acid, lower alcohol version of their red-expression counterparts, perfect for sipping on the patio on a spring afternoon.

white Pinot Noir wine — A bottle of Emeritus Vineyards Hallberg Blanc Pinot Noir in Sebastopol, Wednesday, Sept. 13, 2023. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)

A small selection of Passaggio Wines, in the tasting room at Jack London Village in Glen Ellen on Arnold Drive on Friday, Jan. 20, 2023. (Robbi Pengelly/Index-Tribune) — A small selection of Passaggio Wines, in the tasting room at Jack London Village in Glen Ellen. (Robbi Pengelly/Index-Tribune)

Passaggio Wines 2024 Sangiovese Bianco, $29

“When you taste it blind, you’d never know it was a red, but you definitely wouldn’t know what kind of white wine it is,” says Cosco. The surprise, she comments, is how the grape’s innate florality shines through — maybe even more so from the delicate winemaking process.

Passaggio Wines 2024 Cabernet Franc Blanc, $30

Just a delicate nod to the red wine original, Passaggio’s Cab Franc Blanc is layered with subtle herbaceous notes and red-berry fruits, lifted by a bright, vibrant acidity.

Passaggio Wines 2024 White Nebbiolo, $29

“Tar and roses” is a common descriptor for this native Piemonte red wine that typically reaches alcohol levels of 14% or above. While the nose gives a little wink to white roses, the palate blooms with juicy just-ripe white plums and strawberries, balanced by a lean 12.9% alcohol by volume (ABV). “Pair with seafood or white pasta dishes,” advises Cosco.

Passaggio Wines, 14301 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen, 707-719-9813, passaggiowines.com

Sonoma, Napa Women Recognized by Wine Enthusiast for Revolutionizing the Wine Industry

March 2025

By Eden Collier

At Donum Estates, Anne Moller-Racke takes in the view of the Carneros wine growing region, Friday Nov. 1, 2013, east of Sonoma. (Kent Porter / Press Democrat)

In a recent Wine Enthusiast feature, eight women from around the globe were celebrated for their innovative work in the wine industry. Of those, three are based in Wine Country, helping lead the charge in reshaping an industry traditionally dominated by men.

These women’s groundbreaking work not only influences our local wine culture, but also contributes to a larger, global movement toward change and inclusivity in winemaking. Find more of our favorite women in the local wine industry here.

Cathy Corison, Corison Winery

Cathy Corison in the Corison Vineyard — Cathy Corison works in the Corison Vineyard in Napa Valley. (Chicago Tribune/MCT)

Cathy Corison has been a pioneer in artisanal winemaking for over three decades. When she entered the wine industry in 1972, women were a rarity in the field, but she quickly proved herself by earning a master’s degree in oenology from UC Davis. After gaining experience at various California wineries, she went on to co-found Corison Winery with her husband.

Known for producing wines that emphasize the power and elegance of Cabernet Sauvignon, as well as the subtlety of Cabernet Franc, Corison’s creations stand out for their refined qualities and balance. What shines through the most in Corison’s wines is her ongoing commitment to innovation. From adjusting acidity levels to experimenting with electric tractors, Corison is constantly pushing the boundaries of sustainable winemaking.

987 St. Helena Highway, St. Helena, 707-963-0826, corison.com

Anne Moller-Racke, Blue Farm

Anne Moller-Racke of Blue Farm Wines in Sonoma. (Kassie Borreson)

Anne Moller-Racke’s journey in the wine industry has been marked by groundbreaking work and a deep connection to California’s wine culture. Originally from Oberwesel, Germany, Moller-Racke arrived in California in 1981. Her first major role was becoming the vineyard manager for Buena Vista Carneros Winery. There, she helped Los Carneros gain recognition as an American Viticultural Area (AVA).

In 2001, Moller-Racke founded The Donum Estate, where she served as president and winegrower, further establishing her reputation in the industry. While growing the Donum brand, she started a personal project at her home, planting seven acres of Pinot Noir. This humble beginning evolved into Blue Farm Wines, a boutique vineyard now known as one of California’s finest. In 2019, Moller-Racke shifted her focus entirely to Blue Farm, leaving Donum to invest her energy in her new pursuit.

Sonoma, 707-721-6773, bluefarmwines.com

Theresa Heredia, Heredia Wine Consulting

Former Gary Farrell winemaker Theresa Heredia on Thursday, July 13, 2023. Heredia has since launched her own wine consultant business. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Theresa Heredia’s passion for wine began with her chemistry background and was deepened by her early travels through France’s renowned wine regions. Her first internship at Saintsbury Winery in Napa’s Los Carneros set the stage for a career focused on cool-climate grapes. She further honed her skills as a winemaker at Freestone Vineyards in Sonoma.

In 2012, Heredia brought her expertise to Gary Farrell Winery as a winemaker, specializing in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. She served as the director of winemaking, leading the production of wines that highlight the unique characteristics of the vineyards. Heredia left Gary Farrell in May 2024 to start her own wine consultant business, Heredia Wine Consulting, where she offers guidance to wineries on everything from grape sourcing to winemaking protocols.

Service areas in Sonoma County and beyond. herwineco.com

Here Are Some of the Best Spots for Real Farm-To-Table Dining in Sonoma County

March 2025

By Heather Irwin

Eggs Benedict from Americana. (Americana)

Grabbing a beer with your mushroom purveyor is a point of pride for many Sonoma County chefs. And while high-profile, Michelin-favored restaurants get plenty of love for their agricultural ethos, there are also lots of neighborhood restaurateurs who wouldn’t go within 10 feet of factory-farmed, well, anything. Here’s a shoutout to a few of my farm-friendliest favorites.

The Priestess of Produce: Lunchette

Naomi Crawford doesn’t just source locally — she’s a superfan of local farms and ranches. Her Instagram (@lunchette_petaluma) is a daily reminder of the incredible bounty of Sonoma County. 25 Fourth St., Petaluma. 707-241-7443, lunchettepetaluma.com

Some of the many locally-sourced dishes at Lunchette in Petaluma. (Houston Porter / Petaluma Argus-Courier) — Some of the many locally sourced dishes at Lunchette in Petaluma. Chef-owner Naomi Crawford sources from local farms and ranches. (Houston Porter / Petaluma Argus-Courier)

Farm to table tacos — The Handline “El Coronado” taco with beer battered fired rockfish, shaved cabbage, chipotle aioli, avocado and lime. Seasonal veggie dishes don’t take a back seat here, carefully sourced from local farms. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Sea to Table: Handline

You’ll be hard-pressed to find fresher fish tacos, citrusy ceviche and raw oysters than at this casual Sebastopol café. Seasonal veggie dishes don’t take a back seat, carefully sourced from a who’s who of local farmers. Worth a pilgrimage in summer, too, for their sweet elote. 935 Gravenstein Highway S., Sebastopol. 707-827-3744, handline.com

Classic Comfort: Americana

Burgers, shakes and piles of pancakes are almost virtuous, with painstakingly sourced Sonoma-centric ingredients at two locations. Even the mimosas get seasonal fruit infusions. 205 Fifth St., Santa Rosa, 707-755-1548; 162 N. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-827-3309. americanasonomacounty.com

farm to table dinner at Americana — Crab cakes and seared steak with sides from the dinner menu at Americana in Santa Rosa April 13, 2023. The painstakingly sourced Sonoma-centric ingredients come from local farms. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Almond Olive Oil Cake with tangerines, orange blossom yogurt and a drizzle of tangerine tarragon syrup from The Redwood chef/owner Geneva Melby Thursday, February 27, 2025, in Sebastopol. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat) — Almond Olive Oil Cake with tangerines, orange blossom yogurt and a drizzle of tangerine tarragon syrup from The Redwood chef/co-owner Geneva Melby in Sebastopol. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Natural Pairing: The Redwood

This Sebastopol wine bar is all about not messing with what nature provides, both with the low-intervention wine list and the Mediterranean-inspired menu. Liberty Duck liver mousse, smoked black cod dip with yogurt and potato chips and warm pita bread with smoky baba ghanoush are best bets. 234 S. Main St., Sebastopol. 707-861-9730, theredwoodwine.com

Snail Approved: The Spinster Sisters

One of just a handful of local chefs awarded Slow Food’s Snail of Approval, Liza Hinman walks the walk of sustainable Sonoma County ingredients cooked with care. Even a simple side of beans and greens is magical. 401 S. A St., Santa Rosa. 707-528-7100, thespinstersisters.com

farm to table dining at Spinster Sisters — Carrot Hummus with a drizzle of olive oil from chef Liza Hinman, owner of the Spinster Sisters restaurant in Santa Rosa, Thursday, Feb. 22, 2024. Hinman’s restaurant, Santa Rosa’s Spinster Sisters, recently received a “Snail of Approval” from Slow Food. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

A dish at Glen Ellen Star in Glen Ellen. (Sonoma County Tourism) — A dish at Glen Ellen Star in Glen Ellen. Most of the produce here is sourced from Glentucky Family Farm. (Sonoma County Tourism)

All in the Family: Glen Ellen Star

Most of the produce at chef Ari Weiswasser’s popular bistro comes from his father-in-law Mike Benziger’s Glentucky Family Farm just up the hill. You can’t get more local than that. 13648 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen. 707-343-1384, glenellenstar.com

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

The Most Sought-After Restaurant Seats in Wine Country, According to OpenTable

March 2025

By Eden Collier

From left, fried Rhode Island calamari, tuna carpaccio with nectarine and arugula, and the whole-roasted orata fish at Scala Osteria in Napa, Wednesday, September 6, 2023. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)

Curious where diners are booking in Wine Country? OpenTable recently announced the 10 most booked restaurants in the region, based on thousands of restaurant reviews from the past month.

These top spots in Sonoma and Napa counties are the most in-demand, according to reservations made through OpenTable.

Sonoma County

the girl & the fig, Sonoma

A longtime favorite in Wine Country, the girl & the fig has made its mark with seasonal, Provencal-inspired cuisine featuring farm-fresh vegetables and herbs. For over two decades, it has been a go-to spot for both locals and visitors seeking rustic yet refined dining. 110 West Spain St., 707-938-3634, thegirlandthefig.com

Fig and arugula salad at the Girl & the Fig in Sonoma. (Alvin Jornada/The Press Democrat) — Fig and arugula salad at the girl & the fig in Sonoma. (Alvin Jornada/The Press Democrat)

Sweet T’s Restaurant + Bar, Windsor

Offering a charming dining experience with Southern-inspired food and friendly service, Sweet T’s is known for its fried chicken, generous portions and specialty cocktails. Popular with both locals and tourists, the lively ambiance adds to the appeal, while the patio provides a more relaxed dining option. Reservations are recommended. 9098 Brooks Road S., 707-687-5185, sweettssouthern.com

El Dorado Kitchen, Sonoma

Featuring award-winning cuisine crafted with local, seasonal ingredients, El Dorado Kitchen offers a cozy dining experience for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The Sonoma restaurant offers indoor and outdoor seating, perfect for enjoying the fresh California cuisine in a pleasant setting. 405 First St. W., 707-996-3030, eldoradokitchen.com

Napa County

Bistro Don Giovanni, at 4110 Howard Lane, has been operating as a Napa staple restaurant since 1993, and serves classic Italian food made with fresh, local California ingredients. (Amy Little Photography) — Bistro Don Giovanni has been operating as a Napa staple restaurant since 1993. The restaurant serves classic Italian food made with fresh, local California ingredients. (Amy Little Photography)

Bistro Don Giovanni, Napa

This Mediterranean-inspired eatery offers a warm, inviting atmosphere paired with fresh Italian fare. Chef Scott Warner’s menu features locally sourced ingredients, with signature dishes like freshly baked bread, housemade pastas and grilled meats. The bar boasts an extensive selection of Napa Valley wines. 4110 Howard Lane, 707-224-3300, bistrodongiovanni.com

RH Restaurant, Yountville

Located in the heart of Napa Valley, RH Restaurant combines food, wine, art and design in an elegant yet relaxed environment. The menu of refined American classics is complemented by a curated selection of artisanal wines and craft beers. Diners can enjoy a peaceful, indoor-outdoor experience surrounded by fountains and olive trees. 6725 Washington St., 707-339-4654, rh.com/us/en/yountville/restaurant

Part of the five-building RH Yountville compound in Napa Valley, the restaurant seeks to integrate food, wine, art and design. It also features the RH Wine Vault. (Courtesy of RH Restaurant)

Scala Osteria restaurant — Fried Rhode Island calamari at Scala Osteria in Napa, Wednesday, Sept. 6, 2023. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)

Scala Osteria, Napa

A tribute to traditional Southern Italian cuisine, Scala Osteria serves seafood-centric dishes and Neapolitan-style pizzas in a lively, inviting space. Enjoy a quick bite at the oyster bar or a leisurely meal with friends, complete with a perfect wine pairing. 1141 First St., 707-637-4380, scalaosteria.com

Bistro Jeanty restaurant — Cassoulet with baked beans, duck confit, sausage & Nueske’s apple smoked bacon from Bistro Jeanty, Dec. 19, 2024. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Profiteroles with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce from Bistro Jeanty in Yountville, Dec. 19, 2024. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Bistro Jeanty, Yountville

One of the only French-owned and operated restaurants in Napa Valley, Bistro Jeanty offers an authentic French bistro experience. Classic dishes like chef-owner Philippe Jeanty’s famous tomato soup and mussels au vin rouge transport diners to the heart of France, all while enjoying a warm, casual ambiance. 6510 Washington St., 707-944-0103, bistrojeanty.com

Bottega Napa Valley restaurant — Pollo alla Diavola sul Mattone, Calabrian marinated chicken with roasted Shishito peppers and cipollini onions at Bottega on Monday, May 11, 2015, in Yountville. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)

Bottega Napa Valley, Yountville

Chef Michael Chiarello’s farm-to-table Italian cuisine takes center stage at Bottega Napa Valley. With seasonal dishes reflecting Chiarello’s culinary roots and sustainably produced ingredients from Napa Valley, diners enjoy a rich menu complemented by an extensive wine list featuring both local and Italian selections. 6526 Washington St., 707-945-1050, botteganapavalley.com

Mustards Grill, Yountville

A beloved Napa Valley destination for over 35 years, Mustards Grill offers a diverse menu featuring American regional dishes with global influences. The wood-burning grill produces favorites like Mongolian pork chop and barbecue baby back ribs. An eclectic wine list includes selections from Napa, Sonoma and beyond. 7399 St. Helena Highway, 707-944-2424, mustardsgrill.com

Cole’s Chop House, Napa

A sophisticated steakhouse in the heart of Napa, Cole’s Chop House serves 21-day dry-aged steaks and other premium cuts of meat, paired with hand-selected bourbons and an extensive wine list. The elegant setting and attentive service make it a prime destination for steak lovers. 1122 Main St., 707-224-6328, coleschophouse.com

Spring’s Lupines Are Painting Sonoma County a Vibrant Purple. Here’s Where to See Them

March 2025

By Nate Seltenrich

Wild lupines in a meadow. (Alyona Shu/Shutterstock)

From Bodega Head to the Mayacamas, Sonoma is home to 19 lupine species in the wild. And the state of California has more than 70 natives, flowering in a rainbow of colors. Which one you envision when you close your eyes — blue or yellow, perennial or annual — probably depends on where you live, where you look and what’s in your yard, says Josh Williams, native plant expert and owner of California Flora Nursery in Fulton.

In any case, we needn’t rely on imagination alone: the annual lupine bloom is imminent.

Sky lupines, which grow throughout Sonoma County, are an annual species, meaning they live their life in a single season, then reseed. They’re a compact, low-growing plant with distinctive leaves like outstretched fingers and, beginning in late March, striking blue-to-purple flowers. “It’s the classic one that everyone takes pictures of, carpeting grasslands in spring,” Williams says.

Spring sky lupine — A bumble bee buzzes to the next spring sky lupine at Sonoma Valley Regional Park in Glen Ellen. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)

Coastal bush lupine, a vigorous perennial with yellow flowers and a woody base, grows several feet tall. It’s the largest of the local lupine species, Williams explains, and it’s found in sandy coastal areas that don’t get too cold in winter. It blooms a little later than some other types of lupines, but the blooms last longer. Sonoma is at the northern edge of its native range.

Silver bush lupine has a shrublike structure and silvery, hairy leaves, with beautiful blue flowers that appear above the foliage. In the wild, it prefers drier, hotter, rockier sites. It’s probably Cal Flora’s best-selling lupine, Williams says — though in home gardens, it needs well-drained soils and can do poorly if overwatered.

The tall, dense flower spikes of bigleaf lupine are a coveted landscaping plant around the world. Preferring moist wetland and riparian areas, it’s rare and somewhat confined here in Sonoma County, but considered invasive in parts of Europe and the eastern U.S.

Silver Lupine in Nancy Lloyd and Michael Princevalle's Hummingbird Haven habitat garden in Cloverdale, Monday, April 24, 2023. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat) — Silver lupine in Nancy Lloyd and Michael Princevalle’s Hummingbird Haven habitat garden in Cloverdale. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Josh Williams, owner of California Flora Nursery, trims native plants while making the rounds at the nursery in Fulton Monday, April 29, 2024. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat) — Josh Williams, owner of California Flora Nursery, trims native plants while making the rounds at the nursery in Fulton. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)

Williams likes to highlight one more Sonoma native, the rare Cobb Mountain lupine, with large, felted leaves and chunky lavender-blue flowers. “It sits fairly low to the ground, but its big flowers and foliage make it really striking. Not a lot of people know about it, but when they see it in the nursery, they tend to love it,” he says.

That sentiment, in fact, captures the magic of all of our spring lupines, no matter the form or locale: To see them in bloom is to love them.

Four common species of lupines — and where to see them

Sky lupine (Lupinus nanus): Along west-facing grassland trails, including the Cobblestone Trail in Trione-Annadel State Park.

Coastal bush lupine (Lupinus arboreus): On coast bluffs in Fort Ross State Historic Park and at Bodega Head in Sonoma Coast State Park.

Silver bush lupine (Lupinus albifrons): Try the Lawson Trail in Hood Mountain Regional Park and near the top of the Bald Mountain trail in Sugarloaf Ridge State Park.

Seashore lupine (Lupinus littoralis) Along the Salt Point Trail in Salt Point State Park.

Find lupine plants for the home garden at California Flora Nursery, 2990 Somers St., Fulton. 707-528-8813, calfloranursery.com

Hendry Ranch Is Doing It Old School in Napa

March 2025

By Tina Caputo

At Hendry Ranch, wooden tables dot a large patio overlooking the vines, inviting guests to slow down and get comfortable. (Hendry Ranch)

Napa is justifiably famous for its Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, but in the region’s early days — before skyrocketing land prices made it practically impossible to justify growing grapes that didn’t command the highest prices — the valley’s offerings went far beyond the “king” and “queen” of noble grapes. Hendry Ranch offers a welcome taste of variety on a charming estate at the foot of Mt. Veeder, farmed by the same family for more than 85 years.

The story

Hendry Ranch got its start in 1939, when agronomy professor George W. Hendry bought a 200-acre property in Napa and moved there with his wife Margaret. When George died just five years later, Margaret took over managing the farm, growing plums, walnuts and grapes — all while raising their two children. Having grown up on the family ranch, their son George O. Hendry followed a somewhat unexpected career path: He became a designer of cyclotrons used in medical imaging. Any free time he had, he spent working on the farm.

George Hendry — George O. Hendry, of Hendry Ranch, followed a somewhat unexpected career path: He became a designer of cyclotrons used in medical imaging. Any free time he had, he spent working on the farm. (Hendry Ranch)

By the early 1970s, with Napa’s wine industry on the rise, Hendry realized he could make more money selling wine grapes than he would bring in with prunes and walnuts. He replanted most of the ranch to grapes, starting with Zinfandel and Pinot Noir, and began selling the fruit to Robert Mondavi and Kent Rosenblum. He made his first wine in 1992 and built the winery eight years later.

Hendry — now in his 80s — still lives on the property, just a short walk from the winery. His nephew, Mike Hendry, manages the ranch’s 114 acres of vines, including many grape varieties you don’t often find in Cabernet-centric Napa these days, like Primitivo, Albariño and a tiny bit of Mission.

The vibe

Driving through residential Browns Valley, most people wouldn’t expect to find a vineyard estate. Look for the understated sign that marks the entrance to Hendry Ranch, then drive past George Hendry’s big white house to the brown tasting room building.

Wooden tables dot a large patio overlooking the vines, inviting guests to slow down and get comfortable. The bright and airy indoor space, decorated with warm wood accents and Hendry family artifacts, includes various rooms for seated tastings. Hendry often pops in to say hello, accompanied by Gracie, his sweet Chihuahua mix.

On the palate

Hendry grows a dozen grape varieties, so there’s a lot to explore. Albariño has recently become “a thing” in the U.S., but you won’t find many made in Napa Valley. George Hendry was way ahead of the curve, planting it on the ranch in 1997.

Hendry’s 2023 Albariño () is a lively summer sipper with peachy notes. (Hendry Ranch) — Hendry’s 2023 Albariño ($28) is a lively summer sipper with peachy notes. (Hendry Ranch)

Hendry’s 2023 Albariño ($28) is a lively summer sipper with peachy notes. It’s fun to compare the 2023 Unoaked Chardonnay ($28) and 2023 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay ($40). The wines are made with the same grapes and share a tangy green apple profile, but the oak adds soft vanilla aromas and a creamy texture. A standout among the reds is the elegant 2021 Primitivo ($42) with its cherry-berry flavors.

Hendry Ranch Primitivo — A standout among the reds is the elegant 2021 Primitivo with its cherry-berry flavors. (Hendry Ranch)

Tastings range from $50 for a red wine flight to $75 for a mixed tasting to $100 for a flight of reserve wines. (All fees are waived with an equivalent wine purchase.) Because appointments are private affairs with an expert guide, the tasting lineups often vary according to guests’ interests. You might even get a quick lesson in grafting grape vines.

Beyond the bottle

I love a gourmet market, and locally owned Browns Valley Market is a neighborhood gem. It’s known for its meat section, so this is the place to grab steaks or a marinated tri-tip to pair with Hendry’s excellent Zinfandel or Cabernet Franc. The deli offers a terrific selection of grill-and-go panini to take along on a Wine Country picnic.

3104 Redwood Road, Napa, 707-226-8320. Tastings daily by appointment. hendrywines.com

Tina Caputo is a wine, food and travel writer whose work has appeared in numerous publications, including SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, HuffPost and Sonoma magazine. Follow Tina on Twitter @winebroad, view her website at tinacaputo.com and email her story ideas at tina@caputocontent.com.

Sonoma’s Italian History Is in Every Bite of Canevari’s Ravioli

March 2025

By Heather Irwin

Housemade ravioli with marinara and pesto from Canevari’s Deli Friday, March 14, 2025, hidden in the Santa Rosa’s JC neighborhood. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Sonoma County was built on red wine and ravioli.

As the chosen home of thousands of Italian immigrants in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the simple food and wine of their homeland became the basis for a flourishing economy, and family names like Bacigalupi, Bastoni, Pedroncelli, Seghesio, Traverso and Martinelli have continued to power that engine.

The Canevaris are part of that local history, selling their cheese and meat-filled ravioli to Mary’s Pizza Shack and nearly every supermarket from San Francisco to the Oregon border — or so the story goes.

The tiny ravioli factory founded in 1929 by Atillio Canevari and later run by his son, Edwin, still sells freshly made ravioli (the original recipe) but has expanded into a popular Italian deli under current owner Lou Chambrone (formerly of Sweet Lou’s in Cotati).

Owner Lou Chambrone with the popular Italian Meatball Sandwich in front of Canevari’s Deli Friday, March 14, 2025, hidden in the Santa Rosa’s JC neighborhood. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

A hale and hearty paisan, Chambrone has upped Canevari’s game with fat Italian-style subs, his recipes for lasagna, creamy tiramisu, polenta and dozens of other dishes that show up as daily specials on the handwritten signs outside the deli.

And it’s those idiosyncratic signs with their wobbly handwriting that Chambrone credits for his ongoing success. The deli sits on Lewis Road, a busy thoroughfare extending from Steele Lane to a nearby residential area.

“People would come by and say they’ve driven by here for 10 years and never stopped. It just catches people’s eyes,” he said. Now, they come in out of curiosity or rumbling tummies on their way home from work to see the specials, he added.

The signs are so iconic that a friend made a computer font out of his handwriting — you’ll see it on half a dozen or more signs inside the deli. But Chambrone still likes to write the signs outside himself.

While talking with Chambrone, a line of DoorDash drivers and catering pickups start extending toward the counter. “It’s raining. People are ordering in,” he said. The line continues to grow until it’s nearly out the door.

Excusing himself and heading to the prep area, he dives in to help his small staff.

“I’ll be right with you all. Now, who’s next?”

Fun fact

Chambrone’s son, Dominic Ciambrone, creates bespoke sneakers and footwear for celebrities that start at $5,000. He created a special pair of kicks with red checkered cloth, green trim and tiny ravioli on the laces inspired by Canevari’s. You can see them at the deli.

The vibe

Chambrone and his son Dominic recently renovated the Santa Rosa deli, giving it a warm and inviting feel while keeping the historic charm. The affable Chambrone loves collaborating with other local restaurants and most recently did a special “Cubano Cannelloni” with Carlos Mojica of Guiso Latin Fusion.

The food

Everyone has a favorite here — from the meaty Italian sub, filled with salami, mortadella, capicola, provolone and tangy muffuletta spread, to the frozen ravioli with homemade sauce, fresh cannoli, lasagna, creamy polenta, chop salad and tiramisu. Everything is made fresh and Chambrone champions local purveyors, including Zoe’s Meats, Imwalle Gardens and Franco-American bread.

The recipes are all Chambrone’s, who has spent a lifetime in the restaurant business. “The menu is too long, but it all sells,” he said. “If I take something off, people complain.”

The perks

Though you can sit at one of several tables inside, most of Canevari’s menu is prepared to go. They’ve recently added their menu to DoorDash and Grubhub to make stuffing your face with a gabagool sub even easier.

The Sausage and Peppers Sandwich with a Spicy Deviled Egg from Canevari?s Delicatessen & Catering in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat) — The Sausage and Peppers Sandwich with a Spicy Deviled Egg from Canevari’s Deli in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

The tab

Sandwiches range from $14 to $17; Lou’s Chop Salad is $12; and spaghetti, ravioli or creamy mushroom polenta plates are $12 to $13.

The deals

Take and bake Family Platters serve a small crowd and can include ravioli, tri-tip, mesquite chicken, a loaf of garlic bread and sauce. Prices range from $47 to $75.

The service

The staff makes sandwiches lickety-split, even when there’s a line. Chambrone is usually somewhere in the mix: making sandwiches, answering the phone, ringing up customers or entertaining regulars.

The spot

695 Lewis St., Santa Rosa, 707-545-6941, canevarisdeli.com

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

Renovated Craftsman Bungalow For Sale in Historic Petaluma Neighborhood

March 2025

By Karen Kizer

A renovated 1915 bungalow is currently for sale in Petaluma’s Oakhill-Brewster neighborhood, known for its variety of heritage homes. The two-bedroom, one-bathroom craftsman has been renovated with modern conveniences, but it maintains its classic style. The asking price is $1,099,000.

Quintessential craftsman details remain in good repair: the handsome coffered ceilings in the dining room, wide molding around double hung windows and a built-in glass-paned hutch in the dining room. Additionally, the original brick fireplace creates a charming spot to lounge in the living room, while the vintage tile in the bathroom makes a bold period statement.

Fireplace in living room in craftsman home — Fireplace in living room of historic craftsman home in Petaluma. (RavePhoto.com)

Kitchen in craftsman bungalow in Petaluma. (RavePhoto.com)

The kitchen has been updated with stone countertops and a professional Bertazzoni range. Generous square footage in the kitchen, no doubt, spurred the addition of an island.

The two-car garage has been finished to function as a studio. The ceiling has open beams, painted white, and barn doors to create a welcoming entry to the auxiliary space for lounging, working or entertaining.

For more information about this home at 619 Liberty St., contact listing agent Rob Sullivan, 707-772-9171, Coldwell Banker Realty, 619liberty.com

Celebrity Farmer of Umbel Roots Farm Grows Produce for Top Wine Country Restaurants

March 2025

By Carey Sweet

William Henpenn in a greenhouse at his organic Umbel Roots Farm in the Carneros. (John Burgess)

At the moment, it helps to be a visionary when you’re touring William Henpenn’s certified organic 7-acre Umbel Roots Farm, off Highway 37 in the Carneros. After leasing the long-fallow land in late 2023, he’s been working to build the Eden of his dreams, with towering hoop greenhouses, rows of field vegetables, young fruit trees, and tall mounds of beautiful compost and biochar warming in the sun.

Feeding the soil is critical for Henpenn’s work as a top-level produce provider for heavy hitters like SingleThread in Healdsburg, Quince in San Francisco, Street Social in Petaluma and Press in Napa. Each season, Henpenn develops his farming plan to accommodate chefs’ special requests — tender, maroon-hued Teagan lettuce, or earthy-sweet Beauregarde purple snow peas from Row 7 Seed Company, the line of heirloom seeds from chef Dan Barber of Blue Hill at Stone Barns.

“Geeky chefs love these peas, because other kinds turn green when you cook them, but these stay purple. And bonus — your mouth turns purple, too,” he says, sticking out his tongue.

Umbel Roots Farm owner William Henpenn — William Henpenn at his organic Umbel Roots Farm in the Carneros. (John Burgess)

Picking vegetables at Umbel Roots Farm in Petaluma. (John Burgess)

Such artisanal details power high-caliber menus, and Henpenn is always on the hunt for new or rare specialty ingredients he can grow. For example, chefs don’t just want artichokes, says Henpenn — they want crosnes, gnarly root vegetables that look a bit like a string of pearls, with a delightful crunch and nuttiness. At Henpenn’s farm, chefs can specify spring radishes that are either 12, 16 or 21 days old, depending on their needs.

Henpenn is unusually equipped to handle this level of request. As a young chef, he owned a series of restaurants in the Portland area, and has worked as a sommelier at Michelin-starred restaurants in New York. More recently, he’s pivoted to farming and food gardens, developing a farm at Donum Estate winery, planning gardens for tribal members at Graton Rancheria and overseeing extensive food gardens at the Sonoma home of chef Dominique Crenn.

“I’m so happy talking to the chefs. It makes me feel like I’m still in the kitchen,” he says. “I can speak their language and totally get their recipes. I’m not the weird farmer standing in the corner — I’m the guy that’s boisterous and tries to keep the staff interested.”

As his own utopia takes shape at Umbel Roots, Henpenn is developing skills for resiliency and nurturing endless other farming and food ideas. A self-taught builder, over the winter, he rebuilt several hoop houses after powerful winds from San Pablo Bay flattened them.

“Hiring help is expensive,” he says. “And stuff happens all the time, usually in the middle of the night. So I learned tractor repair; I build everything. That’s how this farm succeeds.”

Later this summer, he plans to open the farm for a few special events. A wide path running between tall dirt berms is being planted with eco-friendly dinners and pop-ups with his chef and winery associates. “These parties will not be to make money,” he says.

“These are to make friends and develop community, gathered around the pizza oven or the Santa Maria grill, and enjoying all this beautiful nature.”

Umbel Roots Farm, 3900 Sears Point Road, Petaluma, 707-339-0209, umbelroots.com