Old School Lessons

Blues harmonica player Charlie Musselwhite. (photos by Chris Hardy)

It’s hard to see the address from the street, but there’s no mistaking Charlie Musselwhite’s house outside Healdsburg. The giveaway is the van parked out front with a bumper sticker that reads, “Old School Means Real.”

Old school, as in being born in 1944 in the Mississippi Delta and raised in Memphis, where Musselwhite learned to play harmonica on the streets.

Old school, as in playing and living the blues for decades, drinking two quarts of bourbon a day before quitting cold turkey, living to tell about the gun held to his head one night, and surviving a collision with a big rig in Mexico.

It’s that same old school that singer-songwriter Ben Harper was looking for when he tapped Musselwhite to collaborate on “Get Up!”, the hard-charging, spirited song cycle that won the Grammy award for best blues album in January.

“Chemistry” is the word nearly every reviewer used to describe the connection between Harper’s hybrid next-generation blues and Musselwhite’s passionate, soulful harp. Adored by critics, the album was a huge hit not only with blues crowds but also on the festival circuit, where it transcended genre lines. It meant that at 69, Musselwhite (he turned 70 in January) suddenly embarked on one of the biggest years of his career in 2013, touring the world, from the U.S. to Australia, Brazil and all over Europe. Along the way, he and Harper hit every late-night TV show: David Letterman, Jay Leno, Jimmy Kimmel and Jimmy Fallon.

“It’s been a great ride,” Musselwhite said in his soft Southern accent, his hair slicked back and his 6-foot-plus frame leaning back in a sofa in his living room. “I’m hardly ever home these days. If I’m off a week, it’s almost weird.”

When he is home, his daily ritual often involves a morning walk through vineyards or along the Russian River.

Across the room is a framed photo of Musselwhite and his wife and manager, Henrietta, with President Barack Obama and the first lady. It was taken when he played at the White House last year as part of the “Soulsville, USA: The History of Memphis Soul” program hosted by Michelle Obama. On another wall is a gold album on which he collaborated with singer Bonnie Raitt.

“If I’d known where all this was headed, I would’ve paid way more attention,” he said, looking back on his five-decade career. “I don’t even remember the first time I heard the blues. It was just part of the environment: blues, gospel, hillbilly.”

Musselwhite’s grandmother, Bessie Love, played piano in a Baptist church. His mother, Ruth Miller, who grew up on a Mississippi plantation adjacent to the Stovall Plantation where blues great Muddy Waters was born, also played piano. And when his father, Charlie Musselwhite Jr., wasn’t playing guitar or a mandolin he built himself, he was calling square dances.

As a kid in Memphis, the son made his first musical instruments out of a cigar box with rubber bands or a metal ammunition box strung with fishing line and played with a stick, almost like a slide guitar. At 13, his dad gave him his first guitar.

“I still remember making my first E chord, and then adding my little finger to it to make an E7,” Musselwhite said. “That was it, I was hooked.”

Growing up in segregated schools, he would question the Southern status quo.

“That’s the way my mother raised me,” he said. “She would say, ‘We’re all God’s children and if you disrespect somebody, you’re disrespecting God’s work.’ And I’d say, ‘Well, what about the separate water fountains?’ and she’d say, ‘We’re just a victim of circumstances.’”

As a teenager, he learned auto shop, machine shop and welding skills at Memphis Tech, which he remembers as “the only school you could go to if you got kicked out of all the other schools.”

It was on Beale Street in Memphis that he got hooked on the harmonica, watching street musicians and later picking up tips from country blues and jug band pioneers including Furry Lewis, Gus Cannon and Will Shade. As mechanized farming took over the South, Musselwhite joined the northward migration along Highway 51, heading to Chicago in 1962 when he was 18 to look for work, landing his first job as a driver for an exterminator.

“I didn’t even have a goal or a dream to be a musician,” he said. “I just loved the music and played it for my own satisfaction.”

One night, as Muddy Waters was leading an after-hours jam at Pepper’s Lounge, recalled Musselwhite, “A waitress I’d gotten to know said to Muddy, ‘You oughta hear Charlie play harmonica.’”

His life would never be the same. Soon he was playing gigs around Chicago with Robert Nighthawk and Big Joe Williams. He was one of a handful of white kids hanging out in South Side blues bars, along with musicians Nick Gravenites, Elvin Bishop and Paul Butterfield.

“I had more in common with the black people from the South, in Chicago, than with the white people in Chicago,” he said.

His first album, “Stand Back! Here Comes Charley [sic] Musselwhite’s Southside Band” in 1966, sold well and brought him instant recognition. It’s the same album Ben Harper points to in the “Get Up!” making-of video, when he talks about how his grandfather wore out the grooves in “Stand Back!” by playing it all the time in their house while Harper was growing up.

Musselwhite was eventually lured to the West Coast by receptive radio stations, a wealth of gigs and an audience that loved the blues. Over the years, he’s collaborated with John Lee Hooker, Cyndi Lauper and The Blind Boys of Alabama, to name just a few. That’s his harmonica you hear on INXS’s “Suicide Blonde” song and on Tom Waits’ “Chocolate Jesus.” Actor Dan Aykroyd has said that Musselwhite was the inspiration for his character in “The Blues Brothers” movie.

Ben Harper (rear) and Charlie Musselwhite perform a song from “Get Up!” at the Grammys in January. The album brought Musselwhite his first Grammy award, for best blues album, after eight prior nominations.
Ben Harper (rear) and Charlie Musselwhite perform a song from “Get Up!” at the Grammys in January. The album brought Musselwhite his first Grammy award, for best blues album, after eight prior nominations.

Now with a Grammy under his belt, which Musselwhite finally won after eight prior nominations, he’s been honored with nearly every award in the book, along with 14 W.C. Handy awards, given by the nonprofit Blues Foundation for the best in blues music every year, and induction into the Blues Hall of Fame in Memphis.

His latest solo album, “Juke Joint Chapel,” was recorded live in 2012 in Clarksdale, Miss., not far from where he was born in Kosciusko. This summer, he hits the road again with Harper and they’re already talking about collaborating on another album.

But Musselwhite hasn’t forgotten about his local fans. Sonoma County will be treated to a rare show at the end of May, when he kicks off the Healdsburg Jazz Festival with a two-day celebration of the blues and its influence on jazz. The first day, Musselwhite teams up with old pal Elvin Bishop and Guy Davis for the first set, and then he revisits the Cuban phrasings of his 1999 album, “Continental Drifter,” for a second set with John Santos Y Sus Soneros. The next day, he plays a set with jazz saxophonist Joshua Redman and his band, then Redman joins in with Musselwhite’s band.

“If you can play blues and you can play with that feel, that’s gonna color whatever else you do, no matter how much you advance to something else, like jazz,” he said. “If somebody comes out of a classical background and doesn’t have that, it’s real apparent in their music. They don’t have that grease in there.”

Shopping: Get Your Gear On

Things you’ll want to buy for cycling, grilling and cooking enthusiasts.

Round and Round: Must-Haves for Bicyclists

If the number of customized, carbon-fiber road bikes zipping around Sonoma County is any indicator, we take our cycling seriously. Just check out the many organized rides in the region and the preponderance of high-end bike shops. Finding hot gear isn’t a problem; putting the financial brakes on your hobby just might be.

Park Tool Deluxe Home Mechanic Repair Stand
Trying to hold up your $5,000 bike while adjusting brake cables just isn’t kosher. For home bike techs (if you’ve shelled out that kind of money for a bike, you’ll want to know how to fix it), a trustworthy repair stand is worth its weight in gold. Adjustable clamps and a quick-release cam will get even fine-tuning jobs done fast.
$300, Mike’s Bikes, 264 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-776-0606, mikesbikes.com

Kitsbow Cycling Cap
You gotta have the gear if you’re going to look the part, and it starts with a cool cap. Marin mountain-biking outfitter Kitsbow gets right to the point with its #justridedammit cotton twill noggin-hugger. Wear it under your helmet for extra sun and sweat protection or with the brim turned up for that devil-may-care daytime look.
$25, kitsbow.com

Reflective Dress Shirt
Like Superman, transform from a mild-mannered dinner date to Reflector Man with this stylish, flannel-look shirt. Built into the stripes are reflective threads that light up the night. Internal sleeve cuffs keep arms warm and a zippered back pocket holds your wallet, keys and Clark Kent glasses.
$84.99, Performance Bicycle, 1993 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-526-6291, performancebike.com

 

Smoke This: Tools for the Griller

Every serious ’cue nut has a secret way to cook the perfect piece of meat. Along with special spices, rubs and sauces, there’s a whole world of gadgets and devices to take your outdoor cooking to the next level.

Thermapen
There’s a saying about cooking thermometers we heard somewhere: Buy an expensive thermometer and you’ll only cry once. If you’ve been a victim of faulty readings, burned fingers and overcooked meat, you’ll understand. When it comes to serious grilling, an accurate temperature can mean the difference between triumph and disaster. The Thermapen is a top choice for chefs and grillers because of its quick readings, accuracy and simplicity.
$96, Sur La Table, 2323 Magowan Drive, Montgomery Village, Santa Rosa, 707-566-9820, surlatable.com

Cochon Volant BBQ Sauce
Sonoma chef Rob Larman is a regular at winery events, music festivals and farm markets with his portable smoker and immediately recognizable flying pig sculpture. But what folks line up for (in addition to his amazing brisket) is his outrageous sweet-smoky Sonoma BBQ Sauce. It’s got chipotles, passilla chiles and a whole lot of sass.
$12, The Epicurean Connection,
122 W. Napa St., Sonoma, 707-935-7960, theepicureanconnection.com

The Great Meat Cookbook
Wine Country chef Bruce Aidells, famous for his sausages, is a man who knows meat. At nearly 650 pages, his cookbook is an epic tome that claims, “Everything you need to know to buy and cook today’s meat.” Though it’s not specifically aimed at grilling, it’s a good primer on best practices, choosing great cuts, and how to marinate and sear properly.
$40, Copperfield’s Books locations in Sonoma, Napa and Marin counties, copperfieldsbooks.com

Black Dust Coffee & Spice Rub
You can marinate, inject and mop all you want, but the secret to a flavorful sear is a good rub. The bolder, the better. A mix of coffee, black pepper, cumin, smoked salt, brown sugar, cocoa and chipotle is one of our favorite not-so-secret recipes for a perfect steak; this blend is available exclusively at the two Savory Spice stores in Sonoma County.
$12.95 for 8 ounces, Savory Spice, 317 D St., Santa Rosa, 707-284-1310; 201 W. Napa St., #5, Sonoma, 707-721-1570, savoryspiceshop.com

Saber Grill-Cleaning Brush
The secret to not having brass bristles in your hamburgers? Don’t buy a cheap brush to clean your grill. In addition to tasting bad, broken bristles can be a choking hazard. The stainless steel bristle head and scraper blade of the Saber brush keep grates clean while offering the convenience of being made for the dishwasher and having a replaceable head (which should be changed at least once a year).
$25.67, Outdora, 128 W. Napa St., Sonoma, 707-227-1528, outdora.com

 

Chef Stuff: Clever Kitchenware

Every food lover has a collection of favorite tools, pans, pots, kits and implements they swear they can’t live without. Sonoma’s enthusiastic culinary culture has a variety of specialized stores catering to the whims of chefs and home cooks, with some of our favorites listed here.

Lekue Omelet Cooker
We’re not usually into gimmicky, one-trick kitchen gadgets, but Lekue has developed silicone cookware that turns out a perfect omelet in the microwave without tons of fat — and no pan. Just pour in eggs, veggies, cheese and seasoning, close the lid of the stylish red cooker and zap your way to breakfast.
$15, Sur La Table, 2323 Magowan Drive, Montgomery Village, Santa Rosa, 707-566-9820, surlatable.com

Zojirushi Neuro Fuzzy Rice Cooker
Say goodbye to burnt rice forever. The top choice of Japanese homemakers, this adorable egg-shaped rice cooker uses computer logic to adjust pre-soaking, cooking times and temperatures for absolutely perfect grains and rice. Menu settings accommodate sushi rice, brown rice and porridge, and vegetable and fish steaming.
$199, Hardisty’s Homewares, 1513 Farmers Lane Plaza, Santa Rosa, 707-545-0534, hardistys.com

Cambro Food Storage Containers
You’ll never go back to cheap plastic containers once you experience the durability and convenience of restaurant-grade food storage. Available in a variety of sizes, from 2 to 22 quarts, these hard-plastic containers have sturdy lids, won’t collapse or absorb odors, can go in the dishwasher, and withstand a cranky sous chef (or surly teenager) throwing them across the kitchen. They’re stackable and fit nicely in the refrigerator.
$3.50 to $15 each, Myers Restaurant Supply, 1599 Cleveland Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-570-1200, myersrestaurantsupply.com

DIY Cheesemaking Kit
Sure, you can buy a hokey kit to make ricotta (basically milk and a bit of vinegar), but when you’re ready to graduate to something a bit more impressive, say Brie, feta or mozzarella, you’ll need a few more ingredients. Santa Rosa’s The Beverage People is the spot for all things fermented, and its universal cheesemaking base kit is the ultimate hobbyist’s dream. It includes reusable supplies such as ripening and draining trays, low-temperature thermometer, vegetarian rennet and calcium chloride, as well as an instruction book, stainless steel ladle and other basics.
$99, The Beverage People, 1845 Piner Road, Suite D, Santa Rosa, 707-544-2520, thebeveragepeople.com

Food Truck Fest at SRJC’s Day Under The Oaks

Ribs from Goodfellas BBQ in Santa Rosa.
Ribs from Goodfellas BBQ in Santa Rosa.

Local food trucks, including several newcomers, pull up to Santa Rosa’s Day Under The Oaks, Sunday, May 4, 2014 from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. at Santa Rosa Junior College. 

Food trucks are paired with the JC’s interest groups and clubs who benefit from the day’s receipts. You’ll the trucks in the Green Area along Burbank Circle. BiteClub can hardly believe the Ultra Crepes beneficiaries…the Atheists and Skeptics.

New(ish)

Good Fellas BBQ (benefitting Business Department): This newcomer is run by Ben Edwards, a former sheriff’s deputy who learned his craft from his dad (a longtime Porter Street BBQ man). It’s an all-in-the-family affair, with his brother’s sauces, sides inspired by his mom’s recipes for potato salad, baked beans and cole slaw. Ben’s got a trio of drums he uses for barbecuing, and says his tri-tip sandwiches and pork ribs are top sellers. Along with fresh squeezed lemonade.

Got Plate Lunch (benefitting Computer Studies/Digital Media): Hawaiian-style plate lunch.

Sushi Shoubu (benefitting Biology Club): Sushi burritos. Not for everyone, but a BiteClub favorite.

Berry’s Burger’s Food Truck (benefitting Doyle Library): Don’t know much about these folks.

Taqueria El Coronel (benefitting High School Equivalency Program (HEP): Mexican favorites from the El Coronel restaurant folks, with tacos, burritos, tortas and huaraches.

Old Faves
Bruno’s on Fourth (benefitting Irish Club): Great comfort food from the Bruno’s on Fourth restaurant.

BunSlinger (benefitting Inter-Club Council Santa Rosa & Petaluma Campus): Asian-style pork buns.

Dim Sum Charlie (benefitting Student Ambassadors Club): Dumplings and ramen to die for.

Fish On! Chips (benefitting Boxing Club): Straight up fish and chips.

Mark’s the Spot (benefitting SRJC Petaluma Student Life): Excellent grub made by a real chef.

NitroKarma (benefitting SRJC Power Soccer Club): Made to order liquid nitrogen ice cream.

Revive (benefitting Bear Cub Athletic Trust): Killer kombucha.

Sift Cupcakes (benefitting WISE: Women in Science and Engineering): Yeah, they’re cupcakes. Noms.

Ultra Crepes (benefitting Atheists & Skeptics): Sweet and Savory Crepes

Vignette Pizza Coming to the Barlow

vignetteHoly pepperoni, Sebastopol’s Barlow marketplace will soon be home to yet another noteworthy restaurant. Chef Mark Hopper, former executive chef for the Thomas Keller Restaurant Group, will open Vignette Pizzeria in Sebastopol’s Barlow this summer. Hopper’s Twitter feed is punctuated with pizzeria pix from coast to coast, marking his R&D progress from New York City (Motorino), Denver (Pizzeria Locale) and SF’s Pizza Del Poppolo and Una Pizza Napoletano (among others). The menu will include Neopolitan-style ‘zas along with seasonal antipasti, craft beers and wines and will have both indoor and outdoor seating. Look for a summer opening at 6750 McKinley St., Sebastopol.

But wait, we’re not done. Also coming soon to the Barlow: Ultra Crepes and The Nectary. Ultra Crepes has had a mobile kitchen for several years, offering both sweet and savory concoctions (what BiteClub wouldn’t do for a Palachinka with Nutella, crushed cookies and whipped cream). They’ll be taking up permanent residence at 6760 McKinley, #120. The Nectary will focus on pressed juices, smoothies, probiotic beverages, acai bowls and other simple foods. (6760 McKinley, #130).

The Kids Are All Right – Young Winemakers

(photos by Chris Hardy)

It’s an exciting time for winemaking in California, with adventurous young winemakers coming to the fore. Free in spirit and style, they are making wines inspired both by what has always done well here in Northern California (Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir) and also experimenting with grapes we’ve forgotten or never gotten to know (Sylvaner or Grenache Blanc, anyone?). And they make the joy of experiencing wine both intimate and relaxed.

Savvy wine buffs will want to know about the winemakers profiled here. There’s no need to be on a VIP list to obtain the wines, as these three producers pour samples in tasting rooms.

William Allen, of Two Shepherds Winery. (photo by Chris Hardy)
William Allen, of Two Shepherds Winery. (photo by Chris Hardy)

Two Shepherds

A winemaker with a day job in software sales, William Allen must not sleep much. Forever in search of the best Rhone Valley grapes in California, and a passionate advocate
of Rhone-inspired wines and wineries, Allen produces some pretty spectacular bottlings and loves nothing more than to sit down with visitors and taste them.

It all started with Grenache Blanc, a bright, refreshing citrus- and apple-nuanced white with the texture and crisp acidity to shine on the dinner table.

With fewer than 300 acres of the variety planted in the state, Allen first found Grenache Blanc in the Saarloos Vineyard in the Santa Ynez region of Santa Barbara County, and released his first tiny commercial vintage in 2010, a mere 175 cases.

Soon after, he convinced the late Saralee Kunde to bud over old Merlot vines to Grenache Blanc in her Catie’s Corner Vineyard in Russian River Valley — grapes that for the 2013 vintage may also go into his signature Rhone white blend, Pastoral Blanc.

His Marsanne, Roussanne, Grenache Noir and Viognier also come from Russian River Valley, and El Dorado County near Placerville provides additional Marsanne and Roussanne.

Now up to a production level of nearly 1,000 cases a year, Allen introduced a Grenache Gris from 100-year-old vines in Mendocino in 2013, and has experimented with skin-fermented Marsanne, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc, in addition to Trousseau Gris from Fanucchi Vineyards in Fulton, near where he lives.

Two Shepherds Mourvedre comes from Windsor Oaks Vineyard, and Allen also makes Grenache, Syrah, a red Rhone blend named Pastoral Rouge, and a Syrah-Mourvedre blend. The wines range from $25 to $38.

Perhaps the newest and most exciting red grape he’s working with is Cinsault, from Lodi’s most hallowed ground: the 125-plus-year-old, dry-farmed Bechthold Vineyard.

Tastings by appointment at Sheldon Winery, 1301 Cleveland Ave., Santa Rosa, 415-613-5731, twoshepherdsvineyards.com

Csaba Szakal, owner of En Garde winery in Kenwood.
Csaba Szakal, owner of En Garde winery in Kenwood.

En Garde Winery

Csaba Szakal grew up in Hungary, the great-grandson, grandson and son of winemakers.

He left his homeland in 1996 to work as a computer engineer in Silicon Valley, where he met his wife, Sandy Scott, a CPA whose family once raised cattle on Chalk Hill near Healdsburg.

Having grown up around Sonoma County growers, Scott suggested that they play around with some grapes, and before long Szakal was making wine in his garage, getting his first grapes from Bennett Ridge Vineyard in Healdsburg in 2001. That first wine was a Merlot, aged in new Hungarian oak barrels for about a year. It won a gold medal in an amateur
competition, and Szakal was on his way.

In 2007, the couple decided to launch their wines commercially while keeping their day jobs. Living in Fremont, they first found winery space in the nearby Livermore Valley, easy enough for Szakal to run to for pump-overs, fermentation checks and blending sessions. Until 2013, En Garde remained half-based in Livermore, where it still sources some grapes.

But Napa and Sonoma were never far from mind. One of the first serious wines Szakal made was a Cabernet Sauvignon from the high-elevation Diamond Mountain appellation in Napa Valley, where he also sources Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.

Szakal quit his engineering job in 2010, and in 2013 he, his wife and young son, Adam, moved to Santa Rosa full time. This commitment allowed him to further focus on finding great grape sources and producing structured, elegant wines.

Szakal waited several years before releasing a 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon ($88) and 2007 Cabermet Sauvignon Reserve ($118), both still available in limited quantities; the Reserve is a knockout example of velvety tannins and age-worthy fruit. He treats the wine to new French oak, lightly toasted, and also makes a Bordeaux blend called Adamus ($78) from Diamond Mountain grapes.

En Garde added a Russian River Valley Pinot Noir in 2008, from a vineyard near the cooler-climate Green Valley. Szakal’s Pinots are aged in neutral oak, and the majority of the grapes are from a vineyard planted 20 years ago to three different clones (23, Pommard and 828). The 2011 Reserve ($66) will be released this spring, and with the 2012 vintage, Szakal will have vineyard-designated Pinot Noirs for the first time.

A man of his heritage, Szakal also makes a berry port-style wine called Magdalena ($38) in honor of his mother and grandmother. He uses raspberry, blackberry, pomegranate and sour cherry juice, making it similar to a Portuguese Ruby Port. And then there’s a dry rosé ($24), in homage to his great-grandfather’s, a mix of Pinot Noir and Tempranillo.

Szakal remains a finder of good fruit, sourcing Albariño from the Bokisch family’s Terra Alta Vineyard in Lodi and Tempranillo from El Dorado County’s decompressed granite
soils.

9077 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, 707-282-9216, engardewinery.com

Andrew, taller with a beard, and Adam Mariani of Scribe Winery.
Andrew, taller with a beard, and Adam Mariani of Scribe Winery.

Scribe Winery

Brothers Andrew and Adam Mariani grew up in Winters farming walnuts and almonds, and enjoyed it enough to long for a life in agriculture, though not necessarily doing what their parents do.

After working in wineries in Europe, they honed in on the notion of finding a place to grow grapes and produce wine, an estate of their own. Sonoma town resonated with them for its sense of history and cool-climate ability for nurturing beautifully understated wines.

In 2007 the brothers found 250 acres of part wilderness corridor, part waning turkey farm, on the cusp of Arrowhead Mountain, complete with a dilapidated hacienda awaiting
renovation. Could the habitat be revived for grapes as well?

The Marianis moved into the existing buildings, let the antibiotics-soaked soil rest and started digging into the property’s once-vibrant history, which included the Dresel brothers, who arrived from Germany in the 1850s and were contemporaries of Sonoma neighbors Jacob Gundlach and Agoston Haraszthy.

The Marianis discovered that the first Dresel to come over, Emil, planted Riesling and Sylvaner vines and released his first wines in 1858, the first in Sonoma to grow German varieties. The Mariani brothers planted those, too, in 2008, and added 13 acres of Pinot Noir and 20 acres of Chardonnay.

The first full vintage for their estate came in 2011 with a crisp, aromatic Sylvaner ($38) appropriately dubbed an “Ode to Emil.” Scribe also farms a small vineyard on Napa’s Atlas Peak, planted to Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah.

Even before the estate grapes became mature, Scribe enjoyed almost instantaneous success. Food & Wine magazine splashed the brothers and their friends across several pages,
touting their sense of casual style and joie de vivre as “Sonoma’s Wildest Wine Party,” DJ included.

But it’s the Marianis’ hands-off approach to winemaking — native fermentations, avoiding malolactic fermentation, and harvesting grapes based on a fragile balance between Brix sugar development and pH — that has earned them authentic respect with sommeliers, wine writers and consumers.

Scribe’s followers respond equally to the intimate experience the brothers strive to provide at both their winery and out-and-about dinners, whether they take place at Michelin-starred Meadowood in Napa or rustically gourmet Bar Tartine in San Francisco.

Ultimately, Scribe cultivates a place for people — many looking for a reprieve from their technology-dictated lives — to connect to agriculture and nature, and to take a deep breath surrounded by physical beauty, food, wine and friends.

2300 Napa Road, Sonoma, 707-939-1858, scribewinery.com

True Joie de Vivre

Jean-Charles Boisset sits at home with his wife Gina Gallo and their twin daughters Honorée-Josephine and Grace-Antoinette in Yountville. The family moved into the former residence of Robert Mondavi atop Yountville’s Wappo Hill. (Conner Jaya/The Press Democrat)

The nearly 3-year-old twins are climbing the small hill in their front yard to the lookout. Once the girls reach the top, they take in the sweep of the Napa Valley hundreds of feet below. It’s a breathtaking view that reaches to San Pablo Bay and beyond. Their tiny silhouettes framed by the colossal backdrop, it’s clear it will be some time before they grow into their names: Honorée-Josephine and Grâce-Antoinette Gallo-Boisset.

They are the fraternal twins of Gina Gallo and Jean-Charles Boisset, whose 2009 marriage joined two of the world’s most powerful wine families.

Gina is the granddaughter of the late Julio Gallo, co-founder with brother Ernest of E. & J. Gallo, America’s largest wine producer by volume. She has been a winemaker with the Northern California arm of the company for more than two decades.

Jean-Charles is the son of Jean-Claude and Claudine Boisset, founders of Boisset Family Estates. He is the president of the company, which is Burgundy’s largest wine producer and owner of Sonoma County’s Buena Vista Winery and DeLoach Vineyards, and Napa Valley’s Raymond Vineyards.

While the Boisset and Gallo businesses are separate, the nuptial tie has created a Franco-American family of four that lives in a world straddling two continents, with a home in Napa Valley and another in Burgundy.

In the eight years since their relationship began, Gallo and Boisset have weathered a major health scare, assuaged their families’ concerns about the melding by marriage of powerful California and French companies, and committed to giving their daughters a bicultural upbringing.

On this day, Honorée has short blond hair, while Grâce’s pale locks are a bit longer. They both have blue eyes and a bit of mud on their faces after a morning of planting flowers with their mother.

Gallo, 47, is wearing jeans, a sweater and boots for a casual day at home with the girls; she, too, has a little mud on her face. Boisset, 44, is taking a midday break from the office, so he’s in more formal attire — a polka-dot Dolce & Gabbana silk jacket and a white shirt made from Egyptian cotton.

The girls chirp a word or two in English and then a few in French. They are immersed in a trio of languages: They speak to Gallo in English, to Boisset in French, and to their caregiver in Spanish. They’re also frequent flyers; they’ve already traveled to France 10 times. Few toddlers can match that.

Gallo says they’re fond of the way of life in Burgundy, where they live in the village of Vougeot in the Côte de Nuits. As for their digs in Napa Valley, they live in the sprawling, 11,500-square-foot California Mission-style home built by the late wine pioneer Robert Mondavi. Situated on a knoll above Yountville, it was designed in 1979 by the late architect Cliff May, known as the father of the California Ranch House style. Its 50-foot indoor swimming pool has two Baccarat crystal chandeliers overhead.

Raising bicultural children is natural for the couple, for whom boarding a plane is as routine as hopping a taxi for most people. Gallo jokes that she never imagined marrying a Frenchman, but Boisset makes it easy because he’s so fond of America.

“I love America because of the American way of life, the sense of entrepreneurship, the dynamism, the sense of possibilities,” he says. “There’s a ‘maybe’ in everything you suggest and do.”

Meanwhile, winemaker Gallo has a strong affinity with Burgundy. “I feel at home there and it runs deep,” she says. “I think it’s the familiarity
of all these different connections, the vineyards, the little village.”

Boisset laughs and adds, “Gina is insane for Burgundy. She has a true appreciation. It’s not just being nice.”

In 2007, Gallo and Boisset had been dating about a year, a sometimes long-distance courtship carried out by cellphone. But one particular call Gallo made had her nervous; she had to tell Boisset she’d been diagnosed with breast cancer.

She surprised him when she said she thought they should part, at least for the time being. “I told him, ‘Let me get through this personally and if we come back, we come back,’” Gallo recalls. “I told him, ‘You’re young. I’m young. I don’t even know if I’ll ever be able to have children.’”

Boisset had a much different plan in mind. “He told me, ‘Love doesn’t run,’” she says. “He told me, ‘I fell in love with you and this is the first bump in the road, and hopefully the last, but we’re going to attack it together.’”

The “bump in the road” lasted 14 months, an intense regimen of chemotherapy and then radiation, with Boisset insisting on going to the appointments with Gallo.

“Nothing replaces being there and I’m sorry to be so strong about it, but I am very opinionated on the topic,” he says. “One of the programs that should be in place is helping people going through breast cancer or any form of cancer on their own. You look at everybody in those rooms with no hair, very depressed and really on the boundary of life and death because this is what it really is.”

Boisset says many people recover from breast cancer, but that others do not is a difficult prospect to face.

“It’s one thing to talk about it afterward because you come back stronger as a couple and certainly stronger as an individual,” he says. “But the process of it is very tough.”

Now in remission for six years, Gallo credits Boisset for helping her get through it by being so positive. She says he would often encourage her to walk with him after a treatment to help her feel uplifted. The man she met by chance at a tasting in Bordeaux became her most trusted ally in combating cancer.

“It took us two years to get through it,” Gallo says, but once they did, they didn’t waste time. They got married at the Fairmont Hotel in San Francisco in September 2009, and a year later Gallo was pregnant with twins.

A Catholic who was raised to consult God on all matters, Gallo would go to Notre Dame des Victoires church in San Francisco and ask God to keep the babies she was carrying safe. A request. A plea.

Now, glancing at her healthy girls, she smiles and says that during the tough challenge of cancer, Boisset revealed himself.

“He had much more to manage with his company than what I was doing,” she recalls. “But he was amazing through it all. So as my sister Julie said, ‘You wanted a sign. There’s your sign.’”

The couple’s Napa Valley home is filled with whimsical, lighthearted touches. The twisting tentacles of a giant fiberglass octopus support a marble tabletop. An open umbrella sprouts from the top of a Baccarat lighting fixture. A collection of Bernardaud porcelain plates from France includes a comical design of a naked woman in a bathtub by American artist Jeff Koons.

“Life is about having a sense of humor and this is what I love about America in many ways, truthfully,” Boisset says. “France is a pretty serious country ….”

When it comes to wine, there doesn’t seem to be a cultural dichotomy whatsoever. It’s here Gallo and Boisset speak the same language.

The first night Boisset came to Gallo’s home for dinner, she had 12 bottles of wine uncorked and told him with a laugh, “We have some tasting to do.”
“Gina has an incredible vision, a deep understanding of terroir, and she makes phenomenal wines.” He adds that they have a lot of fun, whether sipping or talking big-picture ideas. As for Gallo, she loves their wine-world connection. “It’s a beautiful thing; we’re traveling similar paths.”

But when it comes to their respective companies, it appears those paths are parallel. As Boisset puts it, “As for the businesses per se, they have nothing to do with one another and so we are totally separate and it will always be that way.”

He says he operates a bit differently, often following a hunch. For example, Boisset is open to doing something special when a winemaker finds unique characteristics in the grapes growing in five rows of vines. E. & J. Gallo, in contrast, typically focuses on larger-scale winemaking.

“For me, I have excitement and passion to tell you about 150 cases of wine,” Boisset explains. “Sometimes I’ll say I want a 25-case lot or a 10-case lot or even a five-case lot. Because of how we build, there’s a fundamental difference between the businesses, although I admire immensely what Gallo has done and it’s extraordinary. But we come from different angles, different cultures, different ways of looking at things. Gina just happens to be the hyphen between the two.”

Gallo continues to be the “face” of her family’s business for many, although these days she has pulled back from doing commercials and advertisements, opting to focus her time in the cellar. Gallo believes her late grandfather, Julio, would take great pride in her winemaking.

“I started winemaking in 1991 and here it is 22 years later and I’m still deeply engaged,” she says. “I think my grandfather would think, ‘She’s really serious about this.’”

The marriage between wine giants took some diplomacy. Gallo says her father, Bob Gallo, wasn’t initially excited about her marrying a Frenchman.

“My father said, ‘Gina, I went gray because of you. Now I’m going to go bald.’ But that’s my father.” Meanwhile, Boisset says preparing his family for an American bride was a delicate matter.

“It’s very true, my parents being very traditional,” he explains. “They had a question in their mind for sure, saying it’s a very different upbringing. So when I first introduced Gina, I didn’t go into details. It was not just a label, ‘I met an American woman.’ Thanks to her personality, her style, her approachability, her charm, they obviously adored her the second they met her.”

Gallo laughs and says, “He made it harder in the beginning, but he adds more color than I add to his family. Isn’t that a true statement? The most challenging things in life are the most gratifying things in life. So in a simplistic way, when you walked into our family, it was more challenging. But in the end he brings so much more color. My mother (Marie) adores him. My father adores him and it’s great because now it’s fun stuff.”

Both sets of in-laws play a big role in their granddaughters’ lives, as the twins spend a great deal of time in both California and France. “Jean-Charles never wants to miss a family event,” Gallo explains.

Looking ahead, the family plans to fly to Burgundy at least four times a year to give the girls time to immerse themselves in their French heritage.
The goal, Boisset insisted, is not just about learning a language.

“A culture is about the joie de vivre, the behaviors, the attitudes, the way to sit, the way to enjoy,” he says. “The girls will hopefully have a life that is bicultural, which not many people have. You cannot be transplanted.”

For the Love of Shellfish

A fresh oyster nestles in a bed of seaweed at Hog Island Oysters in Marshall. (photo by Clay McLachlan)

When it comes to local oysters, things have changed a lot since a 15-year-old Jack London raided oyster beds in San Francisco Bay in the dead of night in 1891. Back then, the bay teemed with tiny native Olympias, the one oyster species indigenous to our waters. London wrote that he could make as much from a single night’s bounty as he earned in three months at his job in a cannery.

Fresh raw oysters on ice at Hog Island Oyster Company, in Marshall. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)
Fresh raw oysters on ice at Hog Island Oyster Company, in Marshall. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)

By the middle of the 20th century, overharvesting, development and pollution had led to the demise of the San Francisco Bay oyster industry. Today there are no commercial oyster beds in the bay and Olympias are a fading memory, raised commercially only in Washington state. California’s oyster production moved south to Morro Bay and the Santa Barbara Channel, and also north to Marin County’s Tomales Bay and Humboldt Bay in Humboldt County.

Oyster farms on Tomales Bay are thriving, with established producers such as Hog Island Oyster Co. (famous for its Sweetwater oyster) and Tomales Bay Oyster Co. (formerly Bay Bottom Beds and producer of Preston Point oysters). Newcomers include Cove Mussel Co. and Starbird Mariculture.

The tiny hamlet of Marshall on Tomales Bay is Oyster Central, with many temptations along its stretch of Highway 1. On any given day, you can pull over and enjoy a platterful of fresh oysters on the half shell, nestled in ice, and savor them simply with a squeeze of lemon, a dash of Tabasco or a spoonful of tangy mignonette. There are options for every sensibility and season, from outdoor farms with picnic tables and shuck-them-yourself oysters, to the upscale Nick’s Cove Restaurant and Oyster Bar.

Oysters in Tomales Bay enjoy a special environment, with pristine waters monitored throughout the year by the state. A mix of the bay’s salt water and fresh water from Walker Creek results in oysters with a sweet succulence; they are mildly but not overly briny. Hog Island Oyster Co.’s beds, for example, are at the juncture of the creek and the bay and, by late spring, especially in rainy years, its oysters have been sweetened by this constant wash of fresh water.

All farmed oysters begin in a nursery, as tiny “seeds.” After several weeks, the seeds, now called spats, move from nursery to farm, where they are housed in Stanway Nursery Cylinders, devices developed in Australia that keep the tiny oysters tumbling with the tides. The tumbling encourages rapid formation of shells with hard, deep cups, beneficial when it comes to both shucking and serving. When they are large enough, the spats are moved to mesh bags and remain in the bay, high up in the water column above the mud and silt, until they reach harvest size.

A patron shucks his own oyster at the Hog Island Farm and Oyster Bar picnic area. (photo by Charlie Gesell )
A patron shucks his own oyster at the Hog Island Farm and Oyster Bar picnic area. (photo by Charlie Gesell )

Oysters are harvested when they are between a year-and-a-half to 3 years old; the youngest and smallest are for savoring raw, the oldest and largest are best for grilling and such specialties as chowders and fried oysters.

Oyster farmers are caretakers. Unlike farmed fish, oysters do not need to be fed. In the wild, they are immobile and eat by filtering nutrients from the water, exactly as they do in oyster farms, except that they are suspended in bags instead of attached to rocks. What better place to enjoy Tomales Bay oysters than on or near the bay itself, where you’ll find options for outside picnicking, inside dining and purchasing oysters to take home. It’s a good idea to reserve a picnic table ahead, and if you want more than 100 oysters to go, it’s wise to order in advance, especially on weekends. Don’t forget to bring a cooler: Oysters are living creatures and must remain cold at all times to keep them alive and fresh.

Fisherman’s Cove
Located in Bodega Bay, this northern outpost for Tomales Bay oysters sells fishing tackle, supplies, ice and more in its bayside shop, yet also has a surprisingly varied meal menu. In addition to pristine oysters, it offers clam chowder, Portuguese fish stew, fish tacos, Dungeness crab sandwiches, beer, wine and more. Indoor and outdoor seating affords great views of boats and bay, perfect when you need oysters but can’t get to Tomales Bay.
1850 Bayflat Road, Bodega Bay, 707-377-4238

A plate of raw and cooked oysters is served at the Marshall Store in Marshall. (photo by Charlie Gesell)
A plate of raw and cooked oysters is served at the Marshall Store in Marshall. (photo by
Charlie Gesell)

The Marshall Store Oyster Bar & Smokehouse
Here you’ll find oysters from Tomales Bay Oyster Co., which owns and operates this location. In addition to raw oysters, the bar serves cooked oysters,
seafood cocktails, fish tacos, sandwiches and smoked meats (bacon, beef jerky, smoked salmon) by the pound.
19225 Highway 1, Marshall, 415-663-1339, themarshallstore.com

Hog Island Oyster Co.
This bayside farm, established in 1983, is open daily and offers several options. You can reserve a picnic table, which includes use of a Weber grill; schedule a tour; or simply belly up to The Boat, an outside oyster bar open Friday through Monday from 11 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. The Boat offers oysters raw and barbecued, along with local cheeses, breads, charcuterie, beer and wine; it’s a communal table with first-come, first-served service. All seasonal shellfish — oysters, clams and mussels — are also available to go.
20215 Highway 1, Marshall, 415-663-0218, hogislandoysters.com

Oysters Nick-Erfeller at Nick's Cove in Marshall. (Kent Porter / Press Democrat)
Oysters Nick-Erfeller at Nick’s Cove in Marshall. (Kent Porter /Press Democrat)

Nick’s Cove Restaurant and Oyster Bar
Open daily for lunch and dinner, Nick’s Cove is a beautiful location for slurping shellfish. But it’s not at the bar or even at a table, as pleasant as these possibilities are. Here’s the secret: Order a premium oyster platter, or even just a few oysters, and when they arrive, carry them out on the long dock to the boat house. Zoning regulations prohibit the restaurant from offering service there, but there’s no restriction on walking there yourself, oysters in hand. The raw menu features several Tomales Bay oysters, along with those from other regions.
23240 Highway 1, Marshall, 415-663-1033, nickscove.com

Saltwater Oyster Depot
Luc Chamberlain’s 40-seat cafe has a menu that changes daily. There are always oysters on the half shell, including Scotty’s Cove and Hog Island sweetwaters.
12781 Sir Francis Drake Blvd., Inverness, 415-669-1244, saltwateroysterdepot.com

Tomales Bay Oyster Co.
Take advantage of the picnic facilities, with reservations required for groups of 10 (and a good idea for any number, especially on weekends). Cost varies,
but the basic group rate of $75 includes use of a picnic table and grill, along with a starting package of a shucking knife, set of shucking gloves, lemons or limes, ice, Tabasco or Tapatio hot sauce, and a dozen oysters. The farm’s oysters, clams and, sometimes mussels, are available to go. The company operates a traveling oyster bar, too.
15479 Highway 1, Marshall, 415-663-1242, tomalesbayoysters.com

 

OYSTERS FOR THE LANDLOCKED

A trip to the coast is less than a two-hour drive from just about anywhere in Wine Country, but sometimes the oyster craving strikes when there isn’t time for a leisurely ride. Several restaurants can oblige, and a handful of traveling oyster bars will come right to your door.

RESTAURANTS

Hog Island Oyster Bar
Open daily, this casual Napa restaurant features Hog Island oysters, along with a selection of other dishes. Happy hour is 5 to 7 p.m. Tuesdays and Wednesdays, when the chef offers a selection of half-shell oysters for half-price, plus beer and wine specials.
Oxbow Public Market, 610 First St., Napa, 707-251-8113, oxbowpublicmarket.com

El Dorado Kitchen
Fresh “Daily Oysters” are always available in the lounge and offered as starters on the dinner menu. Chef Armando Navarro sources seasonal ingredients for the seafood platters, paellas and risottos that add to the shellfish choices.
El Dorado Hotel & Kitchen, 405 First Street West, Sonoma, 707-996-3030, eldoradosonoma.com

Rocker Oysterfeller’s
This restaurant in the Valley Ford Hotel serves half-shell Tomales Bay oysters daily, along with grilled bivalves. Oyster Thursday, with discount-priced raw oysters, is so popular that you must arrive early or risk missing out.
14415 Highway 1, Valley Ford, 707-876-1983, rockeroysterfellers.com

Stark’s Steak & Seafood
No longer simply a steak house, Stark’s offerings include half-shell and barbecued oysters and other seafood selections. Happy hour (3 to 6 p.m. Monday through Saturday) features half-shell oysters at half price.
521 Adams St., Santa Rosa, 707-546-5100, starkrestaurants.com

The medium seafood platter with peel and eat Gulf prawns, Blue Point oysters, littleneck clams, and half a Dungeness crab with a variety of dipping sauces at Willi's Seafood and Raw Bar in Healdsburg. (photo by Beth Schlanker)
The medium seafood platter with peel and eat Gulf prawns, Blue Point oysters, littleneck clams, and half a Dungeness crab with a variety of dipping sauces at Willi’s Seafood and Raw Bar in Healdsburg. (photo by Beth Schlanker)

Willi’s Seafood & Raw Bar
The raw-bar menu offers a half-dozen oysters from throughout North America, including Tomales Bay and the rare Olympia from Washington state, with charming ambiance.
403 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-433-9191, starkrestaurants.com

TRAVELING OYSTER BARS

For the most luxurious indulgence, let the oysters come to you. Both Hog Island Oyster Co. and Tomales Bay Oyster Co. set up oyster bars at wineries, weddings and private events and parties throughout Wine Country and beyond. Other companies focus exclusively on traveling bars featuring Tomales Bay oysters:

Belon: Oysters for Occasions
Michael Watchorn, co-founder and former partner of Hog Island Oyster Co., operates a traveling oyster bar out of Inverness, featuring a selection of Tomales Bay oysters and his famous Hogwash, a spicy mignonette of rice-wine vinegar, lime juice, shallots, jalapeños and cilantro.
415-669-4599, belonoysters.com

The Oyster Girls
Sisters Aluxa and Jazmine Lalicker founded their on-the-road oyster bar in 2007. The Petalumans work directly with Tomales Bay farmers to bring half-shell and barbecued oysters to events, including at Iron Horse Vineyards in Sebastopol. They shuck and serve there every Sunday from April through fall, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. or until they run out, which does happen.
Iron Horse Vineyards, 9786 Ross Station Road, Sebastopol, 707-887-1507, ironhorsevineyards.com
The Oyster Girls, 707-694-3755, theoystergirls.com

Like Wine

Spring’s swing into summer begins a busy season of tastings, events, parties and auctions. It’s all the more reason to pick out just the right wine. Here’s an idea of what to drink for a dreamy Mother’s Day brunch, the well-heeled frenzy that is Auction Napa Valley, and other spring flings.

Sparkling Wine for Mother’s Day (May 11)

If you like:
Moët & Chandon 2004 Grand Vintage ($58)
This classic Champagne is fruity and floral, rich in lemon, spicy apple, herbal tea character, and has a grace note of brown sugar. Brilliantly yellow and with a satisfyingly minty finish, it’s generous enough to wash down breakfast and brunch fare such as green eggs and ham and eggs Benedict, and is a delight on its own.

Then try:
Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Blancs ($22)
Made entirely from Carneros-grown Chardonnay grapes, this nonvintage blanc de blancs is resplendent in orange blossom essence and creamy minerality, with hints of apple and brioche. All the right flavors and effervescence are there to rise above the sweet and savory cacophony that is brunch.

Cabernet Sauvignon for Taste Alexander Valley (May 17-18)

If you like:
Rodney Strong Vineyards 2011 Symmetry Red Meritage Alexander Valley ($60)
The Healdsburg winery is always a good one to look to and its top bottlings often hail from Alexander Valley. Symmetry (primarily Cabernet Sauvignon with splashes of Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot) is one of its best, with lush blackberry fruit around a core of spicy dark chocolate and a velvety texture.

Then try:
Rodney Strong Vineyards 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley ($28)
Also from Alexander Valley, this Cabernet Sauvignon is from estate vineyards and offers accessible, fruit-forward black and red fruit flavors amidst soft tannins. Aged in mostly French oak barrels, it’s ready for midweek meals and large gatherings, its price being a gift to us all.

Chardonnay for Auction Napa Valley (June 7)

If you like:
Grgich Hills 2011 Estate Napa Valley Chardonnay ($42)
The storied Grgich Hills Estate has always had a way with white wines. Founder Mike Grgich is responsible for making the winning Chateau Montelena 1973 Chardonnay in the famous 1976 Judgment of Paris tasting, a point in time many believe to have cemented Napa’s worldwide reputation. This Chardonnay offers ripe peach and tropical fruit, and refreshing acidity.

Then try:William Hill Estate 2012 North Coast Chardonnay ($17)
Based in the Napa Valley and now owned by E. & J. Gallo, William Hill’s easygoing Chardonnay is crisp and lively, with tropical fruit and brown-sugar spice — lean and creamy. Most of the fruit is from Sonoma and Mendocino counties.

Pinot Noir for the summer solstice (June 21)

If you like:Signaterra 2012 Bella Luna Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($49)
Benziger Family Winery’s small-production Pinot Noir delivers an expertly hewn taste of tart berry, plum and cranberry and a restrained layering of more savory elements, including black tea. Florally aromatic, it melds the best bouquets of both spring and summer.

Then try:
Cherry Tart 2012 California Pinot Noir ($25)
From the Mark Wine Group (the same folks behind the single-vineyard Cherry Pie Carneros Pinot Noir), Cherry Tart is a blend of Sonoma Coast, Monterey County and Santa Barbara County grapes. Evocative of its name, it has plum, cranberry and wild strawberry notes, rich texture and an oaky-vanilla finish.

Bringing Fresh Produce to Every Table

Volunteers work in the fields at the Bounty Farm in Petaluma. (photo by Scott Manchester)

This time of year brings the changing of the guard at the farm. Spring crops such as fava beans and sweat peas, and late-winter holdouts like kale, chard and leeks, are coming out, and the hot-season tomatoes and peppers are taking hold.

It’s fresh-grown, local produce, the likes of which doesn’t often make it to the table in needy households. When Petaluma Bounty formed in 2006, the need was obvious: Low-income residents weren’t eating healthy produce.

But the solution was a Catch-22.

“Most low-income folks can’t afford locally grown produce,” program director Suzi Grady explained. “And most small farmers would be considered low-income. That’s neither of their faults. It’s the system’s problem and it requires community solutions.”

Suzi Grady, the manager of the Bounty Community Farm, harvest heads of lettuce at the farm in Petaluma. (photo by Beth Schlanker)
Suzi Grady, the manager of the Bounty Community Farm, harvest heads of lettuce at the farm in Petaluma. (photo by Beth Schlanker)

With funding from the Hub of Petaluma Foundation, Petaluma Bounty created a box food club, delivering fresh fruits and vegetables to qualifying low-income families. Backed by volunteers, it planted community gardens around town, and the Bounty Hunters gleaning program was formed to harvest backyard produce that would otherwise be left to rot.

A thriving farm is planted on a 3-acre plot on Petaluma Boulevard North near the police station, where volunteers and families learn to cultivate and harvest.

Most of the produce is diverted to a partnership with the Petaluma Health Center’s PLAY (Petaluma Loves Active Youth) program.

In exchange for food boxes, low-income families commit to eight weeks — with both children and parents required to participate — at the farm and health center. They learn about nutrition and setting dietary goals, how to follow recipes and cook healthier meals together. At the farm, they’ll reconnect with their food source and learn to harvest their own produce.

“We start to explore what it means to support your local food economy and what it means when you buy food from a farmstand or local farmers market and how much of that food stays in the community, as opposed to buying it from someplace where it was grown far away,” Grady said.

Petaluma Bounty also receives donations from growers who have leftover produce from farmers markets. Connected to a network of local pantries and nonprofits, Petaluma Bounty “helped harvest, recover and redistribute” more than 100,000 pounds of food last year, Grady said. With 1 pound equaling approximately two servings, that amounted to 200,000 servings to families in need.

“It’s all tied to how much the community contributes,” Grady said. “And it continues to evolve, from the new ideas and thoughts, to the volunteers willing to come out to the farm and do the weeding and the harvesting.”

The farm’s annual plant sale on May 3 (9 a.m. to 1 p.m.) will offer than 3,000 plants for sale.

“Most of the varieties are heirloom, so gardeners can save their own seed,” Grady said. “But we will have a few garden favorites, including Early Girl tomatoes and Sungolds.” Also look for gardening workshops and a kid’s corner with hands-on garden activities.

 

Pinot and a Movie

Wine and beer patrons watching a free screening of Alfonso Cuarón’s film “Gravity” during Monday Movie Nights at Bergamot Alley Bar & Wine Merchants in Healdsburg. February 24, 2014. (Photo by Erik Castro)

When Bergamot Alley owners Kevin Wardell and Sarah Johnson purchased a digital projector in 2012, they had no plans for Monday Movie Nights. They just wanted to watch the 2012 Euros, the heated European soccer tournament between national teams that grips the continent every four years.

This was after they had the nerve to open a Healdsburg boutique wine bar that eschews California wines for Old World bottlings from Italy, France and Spain; it fit with their European sensibilities. Wardell and Johnson inspired a great turnout of soccer fans coming in not only for the wine and goals, but also craft beers from all over the Northwest. But after the tournament, they were left with a projector and nothing to screen.

Mike Velzo of Chicago playing a game of Rummikub with his wife Christina Velzo at Bergamot Alley Bar & Wine Merchants in Healdsburg.
Mike Velzo of Chicago playing a game of Rummikub with his wife Christina Velzo at Bergamot Alley Bar & Wine Merchants in Healdsburg.

“So we thought, why not show movies on Mondays when there’s nothing else to do?” said Wardell, a New England transplant who paid his dues as sommelier at restaurants in San Francisco. “A lot of people on Yelp will liken it to going over to someone’s house or their living room or den and just hanging out, as opposed to going to a bar.”

Part of the appeal is not just what’s on screen or what’s in the bottle, but the comfy recycled decor. The bar is built out of 15-foot mahogany boards removed from a truck bed in Geyserville, topped with folded zinc. The bar stools are made of student desks. The wine cellar, affectionately called the porn room, is where the rare bottles age.

As word got out about the movies, the Coen brothers’ cult hit “The Big Lebowski” inspired one of the biggest nights at Bergamot Alley, luring fans dressed in bathrobes like Jeff Bridges’ “The Dude” character. March featured a tribute to late actor Philip Seymour Hoffman.

But by far, Wardell said, the most packed the place has been was for the “Star Wars” trilogy. “And I’m talking the original cuts and not the re-edited versions,” he explained. “You have no idea how hard those were to find.”

A bar patron enjoying a glass of red wine before a free screening of Alfonso Cuarón's film "Gravity".
A bar patron enjoying a glass of red wine before a free screening of Alfonso Cuarón’s film “Gravity”.

Even if a movie starts to drag a little, there’s always the globe-trotting wine list that Wardell keeps in constant rotation.

“At first, there was a pretty stern eyebrow-raise when people heard we didn’t serve California wines,” he said. “But hearts were won pretty quickly, especially when they understood the idea is to celebrate the differences.”

The name of the bar comes from the fragrant Mediterranean orange often cited as a descriptor for one of Wardell’s favorite wines: Lacrima di Moro d’Alba. His first sip was in the Marche region on the east coast of Italy.

“That was the one place I went back to year after year after year when I was visiting Italy and it just blew my mind,” he said. “It put me on the path to realizing there’s so much to learn about wine and I just followed it from there.”

Beyond Monday Movie Nights, the ’Mot is home to bluegrass music on Sundays. In February, it staged Super Bowl Bingo and Valentine’s Day doubled as disco night.

“Every single project is about us coming up with ludicrous ideas together,” Wardell said. “We’re just trying to have a little fun.”