Peter Mondavi Because Wine’s Our Middle Name This Month

With Spring finally here, we decided it was time to celebrate possibly our favorite drink of the season (or every season for that matter): Wine. On our recent trip to Napa.

“Today I was asked when I realized I was in the wrong body. As much as it took me a really long time to come to terms with it, I think I have known since I can remember—since I could even think about gender or notice it. I was thinking about when I was in pre-K ,and I would dress up as Cinderella and do girl things. If I decided to wear a dress or roleplay as a princess, my teachers would tell me I couldn’t do it because I was a boy. So when you have everyone in your life telling you that you’re a boy, you kind of start to believe it, even though none of it comes naturally to you.

My transition has been a very gradual, very cerebral process. For a lot of people, it’s very easy to reduce gender to bodies, and that’s terrible. So to answer that question that I was asked today, I realized I was a woman after I was already living as a woman for about a year or so. Before that, I had this platinum blond hair, acrylics, and would dress in skirts, and wear purses—but I still identified as male. I was open-minded enough, growing up, to think that even if my outward appearance was female, I could still be male. If you read enough queer theory, you realize any sort of conjunction is possible. There are boys who want experience life as women but still be boys, and that’s valid.

I never understood why people would think that men couldn’t be as beautiful as women, so for a long time I didn’t have a word for myself. I was like, ‘I’m not a boy but I can’t let myself be a woman.’ So at the time I was like, ‘OK, I’ll be something else.’ It was weird for me, and in some ways, my thinking allowed me to keep putting off how I felt inside by just covering it up with this cerebral explanation.

[blockquote author=”” pull=”normal”]There is a lot of psychological tension in trying to discuss anything with gender identity.[/blockquote]

I used to wear a lot more makeup. I fucking love Boy George, and I would put on that amount of makeup—like Boy George amounts of makeup. My eyeliner would like reach my hairline. I would go really crazy with it. I would try to overcompensate. Now I’m much more toned down, but I feel like all girls have that phase when experimenting with makeup for the first time. Though, if I started off putting on the amount of makeup I wear now, I knew I would just look like who I really am, and I think I was just not ready for that.

I was 14 years old when I got my first taste of makeup. I was in a band as the lead singer and we were playing one of our first shows. At that point all I could get away with was straightening my hair maybe once a month. So yeah, I was at my first show, and I remember finding a Revlon retractable black eyeliner in the bathroom.

Rustic-Wine-Rack-5-bottles

I put it on my waterline, not even thinking about the fact that I could get an eye infection as I picked it up off the floor—it was disgusting. I guess the cool thing about being in a band is that there is so much more freedom. There’s the classic ‘Dude (Looks Like A Lady)‘-feel. I felt like I could wear the eyeliner, and no one would care because I was at a rock show. Then I wore it again to a crowd that was more of a hardcore scene, and it wasn’t a cool experience. They were screaming at me to get off the stage and calling me the F word. I was just like, ‘Wow, OK.’ I was 15 at that point. It was a terrible wake up call to me, all because I was wearing eyeliner—it’s not that big of a deal, and yet, people are already policing me for not performing this gender that I’m pretending to be. Obviously I was doing a shitty job at performing male. Sometimes I tell people that I really feel like I was in drag for over a decade, in the sense of performing male gender roles. I’d end the night and make sure to wipe off my eyeliner before I got home.

I had really bad acne in high school, so I’d get away with wearing coverall and that’s it. Still, my mother would look at me from her bed—I did, and still do, my makeup in her room because it has the best lighting—and be like, ‘What are you doing?’ I used to tell my mom like, ‘Don’t worry! I’ll never wear mascara!’ But it all happens…100 YouTube tutorials later you emerge in full face [Laughs].

I always admired makeup. I’d watch my grandma doing her makeup, and she’d always be put together. She would tell me that photos are forever, you can’t take it lightly, and you have to perfect it. Little things like that really stuck with me. Without my mother’s permission, I dyed my hair platinum blonde as a teenager. Having white hair changes your life, regardless of gender identity. It is a really crazy experience. You learn about so many different sides of people and how they perceive you—it’s crazy. It was motivation, I guess, and it was the first instance of feeling like I can’t hide myself.

I was really obsessed with Final Fantasy at the time, especially the Final Fantasy villains. If you really look at a Final Fantasy villain and analyze it, it’s a female head on a male body. I felt connected to the possibility of being really pretty, even if my body didn’t match up—there was a chance for the head portion to be on-point and consistent with how I view myself. After that, I started really diving into makeup as identity. Beauty can be a big deal for all girls, but beauty for a trans girl could be life-or-death. There’s moments when you could be placed in danger for not passing as a woman convincingly enough. One time I was walking with my friend and a guy was trying to holler at me, then he took out a knife. Makeup is much more serious to trans women. Even cis girls can relate—they get attacked and bullied in schools, growing up, because they’re not pretty enough.

I really feel bad for a lot of trans people and trans women who don’t have the experience [with makeup] before they come into themselves and have to learn to do their makeup in no time. They’re 35, they have kids, and they need to transition then—that’s the bravest thing ever. That’s not to say that I think people transitioning later in life necessarily need to wear makeup to be who they are. I just identified with it. The way I did it was just like how every girl picks up makeup skills—where your mom is like, ‘You can only put on lipgloss.’ You need time to practice, so it looks good. I used to just have these Zen three-hour makeup sessions. Of course, during the day I just wear tinted moisturizer, concealer, and maybe mascara. Sometimes I’ll do a wing, but just a little bit on the outer edge. But at night…at night is when I’d really take my time. I’d do my makeup from 7pm to 10pm and go out at midnight.

Duck Club Restaurant Most Beautiful View in America?

The Duck Club in Bodega Bay, CA has been named one of the 10 Most Beautiful Restaurant Views in America according to People.com.
The Duck Club in Bodega Bay, CA has been named one of the 10 Most Beautiful Restaurant Views in America according to People.com.
The Duck Club in Bodega Bay, CA has been named one of the 10 Most Beautiful Restaurant Views in America according to People.com.
The Duck Club in Bodega Bay, CA has been named one of the 10 Most Beautiful Restaurant Views in America according to People.com.

People.com has chosen Bodega Bay’s Duck Club Restaurant as one of its 10 Most Beautiful Restaurant views in the US.

According to the magazine, ”The stone fireplace is the centerpiece at this cozy, clubby eatery, but the panoramic views of Bodega Bay and the Pacific Ocean deserve equal billing. Nestled in a dreamy bay, the restaurant overlooks a wildlife sanctuary, adding to the serene, natural beauty.”

Just another day in paradise.

The Duck Club in Bodega Bay, CA has been named one of the 10 Most Beautiful Restaurant Views in America according to People.com.
The Duck Club in Bodega Bay, CA has been named one of the 10 Most Beautiful Restaurant Views in America according to People.com.

 

Purroy Takes Kitchen Reins at Sonoma State

New Sonoma State Chef Alexandre Purroy
New Sonoma State Chef Alexandre Purroy
New Sonoma State Chef Alexandre Purroy
New Sonoma State Chef Alexandre Purroy

Chef Alexandre Purroy, formerly of Doce Lunas Restaurant in Kenwood, has taken over the kitchens of Sonoma State.

Students, faculty and Green Music Center attendees have come to expect serious Wine Country cuisine from the educational institution since the arrival of Food Network personality Eric Lee upped the school’s culinary ante in 2013.

Lee left last August, but Purroy seems well suited to handle the big shoes, having spent most of his career in large hotel kitchens throughout the world. We’re looking forward to seeing how he’ll change up the menus.

Goose and Gander: New Chef Howard Lee Ko

Goose & Gander in St. Helena, CA has announced a new chef
Goose & Gander in St. Helena, CA has announced a new chef
Chef Howard Lee Ko takes over as Chef de Cuisine at St. Helena's Goose & Gander
Chef Howard Lee Ko takes over as Chef de Cuisine at St. Helena’s Goose & Gander

St. Helena’s Goose & Gander has tapped Chef Howard Lee Ko as its new chef de cuisine. Most recently from the kitchens of Michelin darlings Restaurant at Meadowood and the French Laundry (as well as Picholine and Daniel in NYC), he’s some serious firepower for the nearly four-year-old restaurant. Opening chef Kelly McCown left last winter after an offer in Sacramento.

Goose & Gander in St. Helena, CA has announced a new chef
Goose & Gander in St. Helena, CA has announced a new chef

“We are thrilled Howard Ko is leading our culinary team at Goose & Gander.  He brings his incredible talent, vast experience and a fresh, new perspective to our restaurant and is excited to add his take on the popular style enjoyed by our many happy regulars.  The timing is perfect as we embark on our fourth year of business. . .we feel very fortunate to have him with us,” said proprietor Andrew Florsheim.

The restaurant, which was formerly the Martini House, received solid reviews under McCown and got a well-need facelift when new owners took over in 2012. The upstairs/downstairs space features a large dining room and an intimate and well-loved bar downstairs. The menu, described as “public house” new American cuisine includes hearty dishes like steak tartare, roasted bone marrow, burgers, duck confit and pan roasted chicken. No word yet on when/if the menu will change. Goose & Gander is located at 1245 Spring Street, St. Helena, CA, 707.967.8779. The restaurant and Basement Bar are open Sunday through Thursday from noon until 11:00 PM, and stay open until midnight on Friday & Saturday.  Starting July 1, the Basement Bar is open every night until midnight, www.goosegander.com.

Spring Nail Art Ideas to Rock Of the Runway

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Barndiva Studio opens for no-reso cocktails, bites

Barn Diva Studio offers a curated list of cocktails and small bites with no need for reservations
Barndiva Studio offers a curated list of cocktails and small bites with no need for reservations

One of the curses of success in a small town like Healdsburg? Being too full to accommodate the locals. Which is exactly what’s happened to Barndiva over the years as out-of-towners have flocked to this essential Wine Country destination.

Not surprising considering Chef Ryan Fancher’s spot-on dishes — Lobster risotto, goat cheese croquette with wildflower honey, pork belly salad with poached quail egg — and the rustic, Cali-chic indoor-outdoor dining. Now, however, they’ll be offering a no-reservations, stop-by for a drink option in their nearby gallery (Studio Barndiva) with simple dishes and curated cocktails. Fancher’s sous chef, Andrew Wycoff will handle the studio kitchen, featuring plates of bone marrow tater tots, pork meatballs with fennel, Cuban sandwiches and fish and chips. Continuous service from 3p.m. on Wednesday through Sunday.

Barn Diva Studio offers a curated list of cocktails and small bites with no need for reservations
Barndiva Studio offers a curated list of cocktails and small bites with no need for reservationsv

We miss the custom of neighbors drifting into the Barn after work for a few drinks with friends, groups that would exponentially grow by dragging a few tables together without worrying about the noise or someone with a reservation needing the tables,” said Jil Hales, creative director for Barndiva, in her “Eat the View” blog.  Find Barndiva at 37 Center St., Healdsburg.

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Haverton Hill Creamery Sheep Milk Ice Cream

Haverton Hill Sheep Milk Ice Cream is made from 100% sheep's milk fro Petaluma. Photo from Haverton Hill.
Haverton Hill Sheep Milk Ice Cream is made from 100% sheep’s milk fro Petaluma. Photo from Haverton Hill.

 

Move over Bessy, ‘cause there’s a new udder in town.

Petaluma’s Haverton Hill Creamery, which produces the nation’s first commercially available bottled sheep’s milk, is moving in to the ice cream business. Now appearing on the shelves of Sonoma County grocery stores are small batch pints of vanilla bean, dark chocolate cocao nib, mint chip and hazelnut crunch 100% sheep’s milk ice cream.

Lower in fat than cow’s milk and low in lactose to boot, its lush and creamy and everything ice cream should be. Tasters said they could definitely tell it wasn’t cow’s milk, but had its own unique quality. Suffice to say that if you like sheep’s milk cheese, you’ll get it.

Churned at their farm, it’s made with fresh milk, egg yolks and cane sugar — the old fashioned way. There are seasonal specialty flavors, with Taylor Maid coffee the star of the moment. At $10.99 the price is a bit steep, but keep in mind that sheep produce significantly less milk than cows, so it takes a whole lot more milking.

Look for it at Oliver’s, Community Market and local Whole Foods.

Zin Fans Love Martinelli’s Jackass Hill

The historic Zinfandel vines at Jackass Vineyard, which were planted around 1883 in Forestville. (photos by Erik Castro)

Looking down from the top of Jackass Hill, a 60-degree, sheer slope above Martinelli Road in Forestville, it’s hard to imagine that someone planted every one of the 300-some grapevines by hand.

Leno Martinelli working Jackass Hill with the trailer.
Leno Martinelli working Jackass Hill with the trailer.

The double black diamond ski run at Tahoe’s Squaw Valley known as McConkey’s is just a tiny bit steeper than Jackass Hill, which slants to a 68.5-degree pitch in some spots. Tending a vineyard growing at even remotely that angle is dangerous. It needs to be pruned, mowed and harvested, work originally done on Jackass Hill with horse and plow and now with a tractor, which isn’t any safer. A tumble down the hill is just a misstep away.

Gnarled and photogenic, these tiny-yielding, dry-farmed vines contribute to one of the most revered Zinfandels anywhere, Martinelli Winery & Vineyards Jackass Hill, so designated by the Martinelli family since the 1980s, when, in addition to growing grapes, its members started making wine.

Lee Martinellis Sr. on Jackass Hill among the Zinfandel vines planted by his grandfather, Giuseppe.

Lee Martinelli Sr. is the vines’ caretaker, a 75-year-old farmer so devoted to this vineyard — planted in the 1880s by his Tuscan grandparents, Giuseppe and Luisa — that he only recently and reluctantly started letting his grown sons, Lee Jr. and George, share in the upkeep.

“We really acknowledge our family, what they’ve done before us,” Lee Sr. said. “They gave us our start and most of all, they settled in Sonoma County.”

He, his wife, Carolyn, and their four children (Julianna, Lee Jr., Regina and George) represent the family’s fourth generation, and each of them is involved in the business.

“Our family is fortunate to have been in the right place at the right time,” Julianna Martinelli said. “In Sonoma County, we can grow everything and the wine culture’s gone crazy. We’re fortunate we have a crop, wine grapes, that allows us to make a living.”

In the 1990s, Julianna took on the family’s marketing and sales duties as a young mother with three children. She recalls selling apples as a teenager and then needing to evolve the family business as it became more about wine, something she said remains a struggle.

“There are so many great wines, you have to reintroduce yourself again and again,” she said.

Comprising only 3 precipitous acres, with a couple of mysterious rows of Muscat Alexandria, Jackass Hill Vineyard in a good year ekes out about 60 cases of $120-a-bottle Zinfandel for the Martinellis. Each of the six primary family members is allotted just two bottles. Jackass Vineyard Zin from lower down on the property sells for $95.

Lee Martinelli Sr.’s father, Leno, farmed this land well into his 80s before finally letting a few duties go to his son, in around 1968. It was Leno’s second wife, Helen, who coined the term Jackass Hill to describe the incredibly steep slope, saying only a jackass would be foolish enough to farm it.

In those days, the grapes were sold to various wineries, helping to provide a decent living for the family that has deep and tentacled roots throughout Sonoma County.

In addition to grapes, the Martinellis are dogged apple growers, a crop they’ve stuck to even while becoming famous for wine grapes. They sell some of their apples to the Martinelli’s juice company, although there is no other connection between the two.

It helped that Leno Martinelli married a Bondi, Alma (his first wife and Lee Sr.’s mother), also from an Italian immigrant family with its own roots in Sonoma. Having started out with potatoes, Alma’s family realized apples were the region’s future, and by 1970, her brother, Tony, was one of the major apple growers in the county.

It was Tony’s premature death in 1971 that prompted Lee Martinelli Sr. to become a full-time farmer. He had been a high school teacher in Santa Rosa but needed to take over the Bondi apple operation in order for it to survive.

As apple prices fell, grape prices soared, and Martinelli began replanting some of the land to Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah grapes, starting with the Zio Tony Ranch. Today, it’s a coveted grape source for many wineries, including Sonoma’s Patz & Hall.

Josè Garcia prunes vines in the Giuseppe & Luisa Vineyard at Martinelli Winery & Vineyards on River Road in Windsor.
Josè Garcia prunes vines in the Giuseppe & Luisa Vineyard at Martinelli Winery & Vineyards on River Road in Windsor.

Like his father before him, Martinelli wed a farmer’s daughter, Carolyn Charles, who was raised above Fort Ross on a 2,000-acre sheep ranch that has been in her family for generations. By the 1970s, the ranch was struggling and so it, too, began a transition to grapevines. Carolyn’s father, George, first planted 17 acres of Chardonnay on the site in the early 1980s.

The Martinellis now have several vineyards within the Fort Ross-Seaview appellation of the Sonoma Coast, including Blue Slide Ridge, Three Sisters and Wild Thyme, all ideal yet extreme sites for growing cool-climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, just 1 mile from the ocean. But it was Charles Ranch that provided the serendipity that would forever change the course of the Martinelli family’s fortunes. Right next door was a winemaker, Helen Turley, who was planting a vineyard she’d call Marcassin.

The Martinelli family circa 1910. From left, Bing, Giuseppe, Luisa, Etta and Fred with Leno in front.
The Martinelli family circa 1910. From left, Bing, Giuseppe, Luisa, Etta and Fred with Leno in front.

Already famous for making the Colgin Cellars and Bryant Family wines in Napa Valley, Turley had a casual conversation with Lee Sr. over a fence line and that soon led to the Martinellis hiring her as their winemaker in 1992.

Turley pushed the family to farm for ever-higher quality, overseeing higher-density plantings at many of their sites. It was unorthodox and risky at the time but paid off, both in terms of the Martinellis’ reputation as growers, and as a marquee producer of remarkable wines.

Today, the wines are made by Bryan Kvamme, who worked alongside Turley for many years, and Erin Green, another Turley protégé. Turley consulted on the Martinelli wines through the 2010 vintage.

The Martinelli family. From left, Lee Jr., George, Carolyn, Lee Sr., and Regina.
The Martinelli family. From left, Lee Jr., George, Carolyn, Lee Sr., and Regina.

“Farming the same land for 100 years now is a great story,” Julianna said. “But flavor has to be in the bottle and we have to show consistency. We work hard to keep that consistency.”

In all, the Martinelli family farms 450 acres across the county, the majority of them in the Russian River Valley. Regina’s official title is executive vice president, although her business card also reads, “The Great Granddaughter of the Original Jackass.” Lee Jr. and George want simply to be known as farmers.

For fun, family members enjoy hunting and camping at Charles Ranch, cooking what they shoot. Those are some of their happiest times, when they can leave the business part behind. For Lee Sr., that is the crowning achievement, that they remain together, united in their land.

“In a family business, there’s something for everyone to do,” Julianna added. “My parents are happy and proud that we’ve taken up the reins.”