Pieology Coming to Santa Rosa

Pieology has stores throughout the West, and will soon open in Santa Rosa
Pieology has stores throughout the West, and will soon open in Santa Rosa
Pieology Coming to Santa Rosa
Pieology Coming to Santa Rosa

Pizza chain Pieology, with more than 50 locations primarily in the Western U.S., is putting down stakes in Santa Rosa. The long-vacated Blockbuster store in the Mendocino Marketplace (2280 Mendocino Ave.) is slated to open later this month. The custom pie shop features DIY “artisan style” 11.5-inch pizzas, each under $10.

Pieology has stores throughout the West, and will soon open in Santa Rosa
Pieology has stores throughout the West, and will soon open in Santa Rosa

Mix and match traditional or gourmet toppings (herb butter sauce, meatballs, gorgonzola cheese, roasted red peppers) and get it cooked to order in their stone oven. Ready in about five minutes, its fast food with a personal twist.

New chef at Dry Creek Kitchen

Chef Andrew Wilson has been named executive chef at Charlie Palmer's Dry Creek Kitchen
Chef Andrew Wilson has been named executive chef at Charlie Palmer’s Dry Creek Kitchen
Chef Andrew Wilson has been named executive chef at Charlie Palmer's Dry Creek Kitchen
Chef Andrew Wilson has been named executive chef at Charlie Palmer’s Dry Creek Kitchen

Andrew Wilson has  been named the new chef at Charlie Palmer’s Dry Creek Kitchen in Healdsburg, replacing Dustin Valette.

Wilson was most recently at the Carneros Bistro & Wine Bar in Sonoma. With Wilson at the helm, Palmer says he plans to create “an elevated dining experience at the Hotel Healdsburg restaurant with a new style of service, enhanced operations, and all-new menus.”

We’ll look forward in coming weeks to seeing what changes Wilson brings to the popular destination restaurant.

Like Wine

After all the excesses of the holidays, it may be tempting to lay off the wine for a while. But there are still plenty of occasions where the fruit of the vine is welcome, especially with food. A good time for experimentation and restrained spending, this is a season marked by holidays intimate (Valentine’s Day) and grand (Super Bowl). Enjoy.

ZINFANDEL FOR THE SUPER BOWL

If you like:
DeLoach Vineyards 2012 Saitone Vineyard Olivet Bench Russian River Valley Zinfandel ($45)
From one of the most storied sites in the Russian River Valley comes this stubbornly persistent Zin, brambly and dusty and with an intense old-vine character. Cinnamon spice accents the hearty fruit in this balanced, complex wine. It’s a good candidate for cellaring (five to 10 years).

Then try:
River Road Family Vineyards and Winery 2012 Boschetti Vineyard Russian River Valley Old Vine Zinfandel ($20)
From a vineyard dating to 1925, this lovely Zinfandel is aromatic in sandalwood and blackberry, with peppery spice interspersed with generous fruit and creamy vanilla. There aren’t a lot of old Zinfandel vines in Russian River Valley, so this is not only a great find, it comes at an irresistible price.

CABERNET SAUVIGNON FOR GROUNDHOG DAY

If you like:
Markham Vineyards 2010 The Altruist Calistoga Estate Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($65)
Given more than two years of aging in French oak barrels, most of them new, this is a sizably lush and intense Napa Valley Cabernet, made from grapes grown at the winery’s estate vineyard. Bay leaf imprints itself on the wine’s entry, followed by juicy blackberry and vanilla notes. The firm tannins suggest this wine will improve with time in the cellar.

Then try:
Dealy Lane 2011 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($25)
From Michael Mondavi’s portfolio of family estate wines, Dealy Lane over-delivers on flavor given its price. This Cab has bold aromas of rose and lavender and a palate of zingy black fruit, oak and bacon.

DESSERT WINE FOR VALENTINE’S DAY

If you like:
Joseph Phelps 2013 Eisrébe Napa Valley White Wine ($50)
This subtle dessert wine is made from Scheurebe grapes (native to Austria) and has a lightness and floral quality to it. It’s lovely and fresh, expressing apricot and honey sweetness that lingers on the palate. It also can be enjoyed as an aperitif or digestif.

Then try:
Benessere 2012 Estate St. Helena Vineyard Scintillare Moscato di Canelli ($25)
Perfumed and aromatic, it’s reminiscent of Gewürztraminer in its ripe lychee aromas and flavors. This balanced wine, made from Muscat di Canelli grapes, has a pretty lightness to go with its moderate sweetness.

CHARDONNAY FOR CHINESE NEW YEAR

If you like:
Keller Estate 2012 La Cruz Vineyard Sonoma Coast Chardonnay ($38)
From the family’s estate vineyard high above Lakeville Highway, in the heart of what may one day be officially known as the Petaluma Gap appellation, this barrel-fermented Chardonnay is creamy and full-flavored. This style would pair well with Peking duck, dumplings and spicy noodles.

Then try:
MacMurray Ranch 2013 Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($20)
This is a straightforward Chardonnay with layers of ripe tropical fruit and caramel, a generous creamy texture and whispers of vanillin oak. Stock up for festive feasts in celebration of the Year of the Sheep.

Romance In Sonoma County

Some believe romance doesn’t just happen. It is in fact a premeditated act. With this in mind, we asked some Sonoma County notables: What’s the most romantic gesture you’ve ever made?

Terry EhretTerry Ehret, Sonoma County’s poet laureate from 2004 to 2006, celebrated her 25th wedding anniversary in Paris. To help finance the 2004 trip with her husband, she set up poetry readings and workshops in the City of Light. One workshop focused on poems based on Picasso’s portraits of women; a reading was held with the setting sun illuminating the facade of Notre Dame. While romance was in the air, the presence of Ehret’s daughter and colleagues from Santa Rosa Junior College, who were on spring break in Paris, were aperitifs.

Crista LuedtkeFor Crista Luedtke, owner of Guerneville’s Boon Hotel + Spa, Boon Eat + Drink and the new El Barrio bar, her romantic move nearly went down in flames. To surprise her girlfriend during a trip to Cabo San Lucas, Mexico, in 2013, Luedtke rigged up a pathway of luminaria — glowing candles in paper bags — that lit the way from their bungalow to a blanket, a bottle of wine and “a sneaky little ring box.” One of the paper bags caught on fire, but a chain reaction was avoided and the evening continued on. Her partner said yes.

Joan FrankSanta Rosa’s Joan Frank, novelist and short-story writer, confessed to being “a kind of monster” because she was seldom thoughtful in amorous ways. But a few years ago, Frank arranged a weekend getaway to Malibu so she and her husband could spend time in a cabin on the ocean. While she has always been obsessed with writing, she now tries to make room for romance. “There’s never, as far as I can tell, a bad time for flowers, Champagne and declarations of love,” she said. It rained their entire weekend in Malibu. It wasn’t an issue.

Jamie KutchJamie Kutch made a daring marriage proposal during the grape harvest of 2005. The owner of and winemaker at Kutch Wines in Sonoma sent a red box containing a diamond ring down the slow-moving grape-sorting conveyor belt. His girlfriend, Kristen Green, was at the other end of the conveyor, removing damaged grapes before they went into the press. She grabbed the box before it got mangled in the machinery; Kutch proposed on the spot and Green said yes. They celebrate their 10th anniversary this year.

Will SeppiIn a Healdsburg bar in 2008, Will Seppi ran into a woman he’d known since preschool. As they danced to a Johnny Cash tune on the jukebox, Seppi, the president of his family’s Costeaux French Bakery, asked her suddenly, “Will you go on a trip to Europe with me?” To his surprise, she said yes, and today they’re married and with three kids. “It’s a longer story than you’ll want to write,” said Seppi, the Healdsburg Sunrise Rotarian of the Year in 2014, “but long story short, we ran into each other at John & Zeke’s the day after Thanksgiving six years ago.” The rest is history.

Got Ink? – Tattoos

Tanya Whitehurst of Willits endures the pain of three tattoos at once at Valkyrie Tattoo in Penngrove. Harry Tucker, front, works an arm while Jennifer Untalan, left, inks a leg and Jessica Coccia works on her thigh. (photo by John Burgess)

There are two important rules when it comes to getting a tattoo: Don’t do it on a whim, and don’t cheap out.

“Being budget-conscious can make for a really bad tattoo,” warns tattoo artist Jennifer Untalan, owner of Valkyrie Tattoo in Penngrove.

Since the late 1990s, “inking” has transformed into an increasingly common expression of individuality for, well, pretty much anyone over 18. “It’s not about being a rebel anymore,” Untalan said. “It’s almost like you’re a rebel if you don’t have one, especially here in California.”

That’s due in large part to tattooing’s evolution into a respected art form, with highly detailed illustrations and a rainbow of colors that can last decades. In her 16 years behind the needle, Untalan has been asked to illustrate everything from delicate flowers and pin-up girls to flaming skulls, even a Band-Aid.

“It’s pretty much all been done at this point,” she said. But that doesn’t mean that Patrick the Starfish tattoo you’re jonesing for can’t be meaningful to you. “A tattoo can be emblematic of anything that’s important to you,” Untalan said. “It’s good to think deeply about it, but also to trust the artist, and the art.”

After all, it’s permanent.

Or at least mostly permanent. One afternoon, she worked on a friend’s tattoo, her needle buzzing against his calf. Untalan was doing a “cover-up,” which entails re-tattooing over an existing tattoo, usually to fix it. “Cover-ups are on the rise,” she said. Which is why it’s imperative, she said, to find an experienced artist you really like.

“It can be very intimate, something even magical that happens between you,” Untalan said. “It’s a genuine human interaction. You finish and think, this is why I do this.”

Heli Good View – King’s Helico Sonoma

Helico Sonoma chief pilot Daniel King flies over west Sonoma County. (photo by Christopher Chung)

Want to see what’s behind the no-visitors gate at E. & J. Gallo’s mammoth winery in Dry Creek Valley? Curious why the south-flowing Russian River takes an abrupt turn toward the Pacific? Ever wonder exactly how steamy it is at the Geysers geothermal plant atop Geyser Peak?

Then climb aboard Daniel King’s four- or two-seater helicopter at Charles M. Schulz Sonoma County Airport and take off for a bird’s-eye view of Sonoma and Mendocino. You’ll see so much more from the air than could ever be seen from the ground.

King’s Helico Sonoma offers several tour options, including custom itineraries. And there is no need to wait until spring or summer.

“We fly year-round and winter is actually a very good time to fly, as there is lots of water and green hillsides to enjoy,” King said. “We fly as long as it’s not raining hard or too windy.”

A 30-minute tour is $300 for up to three passengers, a 60-minute flight is $600 (per flight, not per person). Solo flyers can join King for a 30-minute flight for $160.

The whirlybirds don’t touch down at any wineries, but Helico Sonoma has a 20-minute tour package that’s followed by a food-and-wine pairing at Williamson Wines in downtown Healdsburg, for $250.

How to Serve Bubbles – Sonoma Champagne

For impressive Valentine’s Day pomp, pop the cork on a bottle of bubbles — Champagne, California sparkling wine, Spanish cava or even Prosecco — and serve it in glasses as seductive as you hope the evening will be. But which ones? Here’s a guide.

Tall fluteGOOD

The tall, trusty flute is a solid choice, its slender body encouraging a furious stream of bubbles. Yet the flute doesn’t allow much oxygen to get into the wine and open up its aromas and flavors. Connoisseurs, pass on this one.

Tulip fluteBETTER

Tulip-shaped stems such as this one combine the flute’s bubble-encouraging length with a slightly wider bowl. This shape aerates the wine, releasing the compounds that give sparklers their smell and taste.

French fluteBEST

Producers in Champagne, France, are increasingly serving their bubbly in stemware with the round bowl of a white-wine glass and an aroma-focusing flanged lip. These tulips on steroids have enough surface area to fully free up Champagne’s delicate aromas and flavors, and are voluptuous in their own right. Find this Lehmann Référence Jamesse Grand Champagne glass at K&L Wine Merchants in San Francisco, klwines.com.

coupeFORGET IT

The shallow, saucer-shaped glass known as a coupe was popular in the 1960s, but no more. Said to be modeled on the left breast of Marie Antoinette, its shallowness allows bubbles to quickly dissipate, mutes the aromas and holds only a few sips. Save this novelty for margaritas and daiquiris.
Fun Fact: To mark her 40th birthday, model Kate Moss created her own coupe, molded from her left breast
(a diminutive A-cup size).

East meets West at East Wind Bakery in Sebastopol

East Wind Bakery in Santa Rosa features bao, kimchee-stuffed croissants and milk bread made daily. Photo: Heather Irwin
East Wind Bakery in Santa Rosa features bao, kimchee-stuffed croissants and milk bread made daily. Photo: Heather Irwin

Milk bread, where have you been all my life? Found primarily in Asian bakeries, this Japanese style of bread (also called Hokkaido) makes a supple, sweet, heavenly loaf with nary a sprout or seed or whole grain in sight. Perfect for toast, sandwiches or simply nibbling from the bag, fresh loaves are baked daily at the recently-opened pan-Asian Bakery, East Wind (3851 Sebastopol Rd., Santa Rosa) flecked with bits of Earl Grey tea, herbs or cinnamon (as well as plain) for about $5 each.

But that’s just the start of your inevitable caloric overload.

The owners of East Wind Bakery
The owners of East Wind Bakery

This beautiful little bakery owned by partners Doug Quick and Tony Tam also features homemade bbq pork curried beef, red bean and taro bao (baked); kimchee and Chinese sausage-stuffed croissants (along with bacon chocolate and plain); Chinese sponge cake, garam-masala-spiced sweet buns, Massaman beef and Thai chicken pot pies, pork banh mi and, well, you get the idea.

milkbread
Milk Bread from East Wind Bakery studded with Earl Grey tea. Photo: Heather Irwin.

Go with a sense of adventure and a hungry belly, and don’t miss out on the Sea Foam coffee (made with a sweet-salty whipped cream, Asian spices, and coffee) or boba tea. I’d be remiss to leave out that they’ve also got plenty of Western sweets (cupcakes, lemon tarts, etc) that are equally delicious, though less exotic.

East Wind Bakery in Santa Rosa
East Wind Bakery in Santa Rosa

East Wind Bakery, 3851 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa, Hours: Tue-Fri 8am-4pm, Sat 9am-5pm, Sun 9am-3pm; 707-568-6081.

Thai chicken pot pie at East Wind Bakery
Thai chicken pot pie at East Wind Bakery

Fork Roadhouse: Brilliant for Brunch in Sebastopol

Fork Roadhouse opens in Sebastopol featuring breakfast and lunch
Fork Roadhouse opens in Sebastopol featuring breakfast and lunch

Fork Roadhouse is a honey little noshery on the way to Bodega Bay that’s worth a side-trip or stop on the way to Bodega Bay. A hidden local gem for breakfast, brunch and lunch, chef/owner Sarah Piccolo knows how to make incredible, comforting dishes that showcase the region’s best purveyors.

We’ve been a fan of Sarah’s roaming food truck for years but her meandering roadhouse has plenty of nooks and crannies to spread out with your polenta bowl filled with goat cheese, kale and a poached egg, pork belly taco or grass-fed burger with tomato jam.

Fork Roadhouse opens in Sebastopol featuring breakfast and lunch
Fork Roadhouse opens in Sebastopol featuring breakfast and lunch

The menu includes a number of vegetarian options, and everything is made with local, seasonal ingredients…and a whole lot of love. Best bet: Orange and ginger stewed prune with greek yogurt, honey, granola and bee pollen with roadhouse potatoes. 

The back patio with creekside dining and a toasty fire pit is perfect for wiggly kids or warmer-weather dining.

Fork Roadhouse: 9890 Bodega Hwy, Sebastopol. Breakfast and Lunch Wednesday-Monday 9am to 2pm, Dinners Wednesday-Monday (except Sundays) 5:30pm to 8:30pm. Closed Tuesday. 

Fork Roadhouse opens in Sebastopol featuring breakfast and lunch

 

French Laundry’s Thomas Keller Opens Ad Lib Pop-Up

Ad Lib Atlantic Salmon, one of the menu items from the Thomas Keller Restaurant Group and Silverado Resort in Napa. Photo: Meg Smith.
Ad Lib Atlantic Salmon, one of the menu items from the Thomas Keller Restaurant Group and Silverado Resort in Napa. Photo: Meg Smith.
AdLib_Kumamoto_Oysters_photo_by_Meg_Smith
Ad Lib Kumamoto Oysters, one of the menu items from the Thomas Keller Restaurant Group and Silverado Resort in Napa. Photo: Meg Smith.

Word broke Monday that Thomas Keller is opening Ad Lib, a pop-up restaurant at the Silverado Resort through early March while the French Laundry undergoes a renovation. The restaurant will operate out of the resort’s Royal Oak Room beginning January 21 through March 2 from 5-9p.m. Thursday through Monday.

Ad Lib Chop Salad, one of the menu items from the Thomas Keller Restaurant Group and Silverado Resort in Napa. Photo: Meg Smith.
Ad Lib Chop Salad, one of the menu items from the Thomas Keller Restaurant Group and Silverado Resort in Napa. Photo: Meg Smith.

According to the website, the menu consists of “traditional, honest food” with a hearty selection of daily specials influenced by The French Laundry Culinary Garden. The a la carte menu, with entrees ranging from about $28-$55 each, will include a Classic Caesar Salad and Steak Tartare, both prepared table-side, Fruitwood Smoked Kielbasa, Black Angus Chop Steak, Root Vegetable Pot Pie, Braised Beef Short Rib “Wellington,” Broiled Alaskan King Crab Legs and a Seven-Layer Coconut Cake. Guests can also expect a hearty selection of daily specials influenced by The French Laundry Culinary Garden.

Ad Lib Ribeye, one of the menu items from the Thomas Keller Restaurant Group and Silverado Resort in Napa. Photo: Meg Smith.
Ad Lib Ribeye, one of the menu items from the Thomas Keller Restaurant Group and Silverado Resort in Napa. Photo: Meg Smith.

This is a collaborative effort from TKRG Chef de Cuisine Devin Knell, The French Laundry’s Chef de Cuisine David Breeden and Sous Chef Michael Wallace, who has been appointed the Chef de Cuisine of the pop-up.

Ad Lib Kielbasa, one of the menu items from the Thomas Keller Restaurant Group and Silverado Resort in Napa. Photo: Meg Smith.
Ad Lib Kielbasa, one of the menu items from the Thomas Keller Restaurant Group and Silverado Resort in Napa. Photo: Meg Smith.

But here’s the rub. Unless you’ve got at least four people, you’re out of luck (and even then, you’ll have to call soon). Tables for two have already been snapped up for the duration of the pop-up. Details and more info online at thomaskeller.com/ad-lib

Ad Lib Parker House Rolls, one of the menu items from the Thomas Keller Restaurant Group and Silverado Resort in Napa. Photo: Meg Smith.
Ad Lib Parker House Rolls, one of the menu items from the Thomas Keller Restaurant Group and Silverado Resort in Napa. Photo: Meg Smith.