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Libations Unlimited

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Heritage Public House (1901 Mendocino Ave, Santa Rosa) has shuttered, effective immediately.
According to proprietor Dino D’Argenzio, the turnover of the kitchen and management to restaurateur Josh Silvers in April 2015, “didn’t fit” and the parties have ended the relationship on a “friendly note”. Several months ago, BiteClub tasted through the menu, which was impressive, but recently was cut back significantly.
“It’s disappointing it didn’t work out,” said Silvers. “The team was really gelling. I’m hopeful in this time of employee deficits they will get snapped up fast,” he added. Silvers is the owner of Jackson’s Bar and Oven and does frequent restaurant consulting.
Bloodline Brewing Co., which launched at the restaurant in 2014 and was a significant part of their tap program will continue brewing offsite and focus on increased distribution throughout the Bay Area. Bloodline is co-owned by several members of the D’Argenzio family.
The Heritage Public House building is available for lease, and D’Argenzio said he has some “exciting prospects”.
“We’d like to take this opportunity to sincerely thank the community for supporting us over the last four years. It has been a pleasure getting to know you, serving you and being a part of the vibrant SRJC neighborhood,” said D’Argenzio on the Heritage Public House Facebook page.
An apple orchard isn’t the kind of place you usually find an artisan salsa that makes all salsas seem pale in comparison.
But that’s how it happened.
Part of a fancy snack spread my friends had set out for us volunteer apple pickers was Primavera Roasted Tomato Chipotle Salsa with tortilla chips.
At first it was just mindless hunger driving me to stuff my face with this smoky, roasty salsa. Then, paired with ice cold hard cider, it was a revelation.
Then it just got plain embarrassing as I double and triple dipped, with red drips staining the front of my shirt. Hiding my gluttony was pointless, so I smuggled out the rest of it in my bag. I figured I’d earned it.
This is no mass-production salsa, but a well-honed recipe from the kitchens of Karen Waikiki, the owner Sonoma’s El Molino Central and Primavera foods.
A longtime friend of Mexican cooking authority Diana Kennedy and Alice Waters, she’s made it her mission to revitalize the art of making stone-ground corn tortillas and sharing traditional Mexican recipes using local produce.
It’s not always easy to find, and you’ll spend a little more than a simple pico de gallo, but even Michelle Tam of Nom Nom Paleo is a fan, calling this salsa, “the best g******* salsa around.”
Primavera Roasted Tomato Salsa with chipotle, $5.99, Oliver’s Markets.
Cucina Paradiso is coming to Santa Rosa.
The much-loved Petaluma Italian restaurant is slated to open a second restaurant later this fall, according to owner Dennis Hernandez. The restaurateur took over Roberto’s Trattoria Lupo on Sonoma Hwy. in August 2015, with plans to reopen in early November.
The menu will be similar to the Petaluma restaurant, which has been a longtime Michelin Bib Gourmand.
Chef Angelo Cucco will take over the kitchen, a longtime SF chef and pal of Dennis.
Less than 10 years ago, you could drive through Sebastopol in the fall and see tons and tons of apples rotting on the ground. Sonoma County’s iconic Gravensteins were in danger of disappearing, and the few remaining orchardists struggled to find a market for their apples. Entire apple orchards were ripped out and replaced with vineyards.
Hard cider is changing that dismal landscape, radically.
These days, the remaining orchards are becoming coveted sources for heirloom apples, and seasoned apple farmers are becoming mentors to a new generation of cider makers cropping up throughout Sonoma County. And whether they’re using estate apples, mixing West County apples from a variety locations or importing juice from the Pacific Northwest, all of their beverages have a definite North Bay twist.
As the weather begs for a warm fire and a cold cider, we’ve found some local favorites and got the goods on their new fall releases, which will hit local stores and restaurants throughout the late fall.
Here are our picks for the Best Sonoma Hard Ciders for fall 2015
Hops & Honey Cider, Horse & Plow: Although it’s rather unconventional in the traditional cider industry, lots of new cider makers are adding a bit of hoppiness to their brews, adding a level of complexity and giving them a crossover appeal to craft brew drinkers. Sebastopol winemakers Chris Condos and Suzanne Hagins have made artisan cider making part of their Horse & Plow wine business, with new Hops & Honey releases joining their Farmhouse and Heirloom ciders.
The Anvil, Sonoma Cider: A father-son team is making some of the most buzzed-about ciders in Healdsburg. Classic Dry Zider is a winner in the Reserve series, aged in Zinfandel barrels, while limited releases such as the recent habanero-lime cider are less classic. Our favorite, however, remains The Anvil. Here, apple meets bourbon; deliciousness ensues.
This spirited cider pairs sweet apples with the smokiness of bourbon (sans actual bourbon). Flavor? Full.
Coming soon: Dry Fuji, a “special reserve bottling” of dry fuji pear cider, and Imperial Reserve, a high-alcohol cider that’s packed with organic brown sugar, whiskey barrel fermented and aged to perfection.
2013 Barred Rock Barrel Aged Cider, Tilted Shed Cider: Aged in Tennessee bourbon barrels, this cider gets better with age. Late season Sonoma County heirloom and cider apples slowly fermented, then aged for three months in, did we mention, bourbon barrels. Coming soon: Like all of the ciders made in Windsor by Scott Heath and Ellen Cavalli, there’s a fascinating back story behind the releases: bacon smoke, “sidra” (Basque-style) cider and “lost” varietals. Sloe cider was the result of a collaboration with Spirit Works Distillery, and along with the annual releases of Graviva!, Smoked, Lost Orchard, Inclinado and Barred Rock, they’ll launch a club for rare and unusual releases this fall.
Black Jack 21, Ace Cider: Ace started the cider craze 21 years ago in Sonoma County, and they’re still making some of the most popular ciders in America. Though fruitier flavors like pineapple, berry and pumpkin, this dry reserve bottling is the champagne of ciders. Coming soon: Space Bloody Orange, a limited release apple cider infused with blood oranges.
Cidre Noir, Devoto: Only the most “charismatic” of apples goes into this velvet cape of a cider. Sweeter “black” varietals hang until late season, soaking up sweetness, then mix with a smattering of tart for a dry but rich pour. The Devoto family still farms 50+ heirloom apple varieties on their 26-acre Sebastopol farm.
Golden State Cider, Devoto’s second brand, comes in easy-drinking cans and is barn-storming the cider field. Made with West Coast apples, it’s an approachable Friday night kind of cider that’s dry and food friendly.
Foxcraft, Cranberry Cider: ’Tis the season to think berry. This easy-drinking cider gets juiced with cranberry for some tart/sweet holiday fizz. The Santa Rosa company ramps up this holiday-friendly flavor in October, but Apple Blossom, Pear and Blood Orange round out their flavor lineup.
All of these ciders also are available locally at Bottle Barn, 3331 Industrial Drive, Santa Rosa, 528-1161, and can frequently be found at Whole Foods and Oliver’s Markets.
Best places to find local ciders on tap and otherwise:
— Brew, 555 Healdsburg Ave., Santa Rosa
— Woodfour Brewing, 6780 Depot St., Sebastopol
— Sprenger’s Tap Room, 446 B St., Santa Rosa
— Heritage Public House, 1901 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa
— Petaluma Taps, 54 E. Washington St., Petaluma
— Olde Sonoma Public House, 18615 Sonoma Hwy., Sonoma
We all know the old adage that it takes a lot of beer to make good wine.
These days, there are about two dozen craft breweries around Sonoma County, including Russian River Brewing Co., home of the world’s best brew, according to readers of the trade publication Beer Advocate.
Along with this embarrassment of riches, there are now 10 gastropubs serving elevated pub cuisine worthy of the world-class brews produced on the premises. It’s a rare confluence of great food and beer, tapped at the same source.
“A place where you can get the whole package is special,” said Morgan Marshall, general manager of Fogbelt Brewing Company in Santa Rosa. “Our philosophy is, if you make things in-house, it’s better.”
Though they come from the wine world, Fogbelt owners Remy Martin and Paul Hawley have been making beer since 2004. They opened Fogbelt in February 2014, and the pub has been packing them in for happy hour ever since, with plans to expand its kitchen and brewing facility this fall.
Reflecting the DIY spirit of its nano-brewery, Fogbelt makes its own bread and butter pickles to serve alongside sandwiches such as the Smoked Tri-Tip Philly with Provolone and Horseradish Cream. The Spicy Turkey Sandwich with Smoky Hobbs Bacon, Pickled Onions and Sriracha Cream Cheese got a nod this year at the annual Battle of the Brews event, which crowned it “Best Cold Sandwich.”
Other tempting menu items created by executive chef Shawn Page, formerly of Willi’s Seafood & Raw Bar in Healdsburg, include beer-poached sausages from the Sonoma County Meat Co. of Santa Rosa, served with an array of DIY toppings; and a Butcher’s Board menu serving artisan products like Hobb’s Applewood Smoked Tavern Ham and Humboldt Fog goat cheese.
At Heritage Public House in Santa Rosa, owners Dino and Roman D’Argenzio recently hired chef Josh Silvers of Jackson’s Bar & Oven in Santa Rosa to manage the pub and revamp the menu. That has enabled them to focus on Bloodline Brewing Co. beers, including a seasonal brew made on-site. Silvers has elevated the lineup of traditional pub grub by adding beer-friendly salads like Spinach, Bacon & Mushroom and veggie entrees such as Black Barley “Risotto.”
“Barley is the heart of beer, so we bring it around,” he said.
“Beer evokes the feeling of hanging out in the backyard with friends,” Silvers added, and in the hot harvest season, this easy way of eating fits like a glove.
Bear Republic Brewing Co.
345 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg,
707-433-2337, bearrepublic.com
Dempsey’s Restaurant & Brewery
50 E. Washington St., Petaluma,
707-765-9694, dempseys.com
Fogbelt Brewing Company
1305 Cleveland Ave., Santa Rosa,
707-978-3400, fogbeltbrewing.com
Heritage Public House
1901 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa,
707-540-0395, heritagepublichousesr.com
Lagunitas Brewing Co.
1280 N. McDowell Boulevard, Petaluma,
707-778-8776, lagunitas.com
Russian River Brewing Co.
725 Fourth St., Santa Rosa,
707-545-2337, russianriverbrewing.com
Ruth McGowan’s Brewpub
(Cloverdale Ale Co.), 131 E. First St., Cloverdale,
707-894-9610, ruthmcgowansbrewpub.com
Stumptown Brewery
15045 River Road, Guerneville,
707-869-0705, stumptown.com
Third Street Aleworks
610 Third St., Santa Rosa,
707-523-3060, thirdstreetaleworks.com
Woodfour Brewing Co.
6780 Depot St., Sebastopol,
707-823-3144, woodfourbrewing.com
On a visit to the newly expanded gardens at Kendall-Jackson Wine Estate just north of Santa Rosa, you might find culinary gardens director Tucker Taylor juggling some very interesting things this late summer. Tim’s Black Ruffles. Grandfather Ashlock. Candy’s Old Yellow, Serendipity Striped and neon green, radish-shaped Michael Pollan.
No, it’s not a vaudeville show, but a collection of boutique tomato varieties, newly introduced for this year’s Kendall-Jackson Heirloom Tomato Festival. As the former master gardener for the French Laundry, Taylor is an expert on the magical — and sometimes bizarre — bounty of Mother Nature.
Appointed with producing more than 8,000 pounds of fruit in some 175 varieties from the winery’s Fulton estate and Geyserville gardens, Taylor has a simple suggestion for guests at the 19th annual walk-around food and wine tasting on the winery lawns on Sept. 26.
“It really comes down to one’s personal preference on what they like in a tomato,” he says. “I suggest trying them all.”
It’s a delicious assignment. All the luscious fruit is presented under a big tent for tasting your way through and discovering how tomatoes like Brandywine and Blue Berries actually taste like their namesake. For more temptation, there are also more than 50 notable local chefs cooking away, challenged to create recipes like previous years’ tomato cotton candy, tomato macaroons, tomato crème brûlée, and sparkling tomato water glittering with cucumber “pearls.”
Who will win the coveted People’s Choice Award for best dish? Last year, it was Nectar restaurant at the Hilton Sonoma Wine Country hotel, wowing with lobster, smoked mozzarella and tomato arancini. Competition will be fierce, with top restaurants participating, like Applewood Inn, Costeaux French Bakery, Earth’s Bounty Kitchen & Wine Bar, Epicurean Connection, Jackson’s Bar & Oven, John Ash & Co., and Tony’s North Beach/Graton Casino.
As some 2,600 attendees snack and sip, they can cheer on the Chef Challenge competitors in a cook-off pitting K-J executive chef Justin Wangler against two-Michelin-star chef and “Top Chef Master” Season 5 winner Douglas Keane; former “Top Chef” and “Top Chef All-Stars” contestant Casey Thompson; and former “Top Chef Masters” Season 5 contestant Sang Yoon. The talented contenders will whip up masterpieces featuring heirloom tomatoes along with a basket of mystery ingredients.
Besides eating, drinking and dancing to live music, guests can feel good knowing the event benefits Ceres Community Project, which provides free or low-cost healthy meals to community residents dealing with serious illness. The meals are prepared by 14- to 19-year-olds who volunteer as the program’s gardeners and chefs — aspiring culinary pros who someday may also be juggling Tim’s Black Ruffles.
Kendall-Jackson Heirloom Tomato Festival, Sept. 26, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., 5007 Fulton Road, Fulton, $95, $175 VIP, kj.com
Matthew Tudor-Jackson affectionately calls his new home “the lair.” He refers to that certain James Bond mystique surrounding his masculine hideaway, set on the lip of a mountain with a wing-like roof that makes it appear as if it could soar over the forested canyon beyond like a large raptor.
While it seems like it’s hundreds of miles off the grid in some ruggedly exotic locale patrolled by eagles, this house is just a 12-minute drive from a Safeway store. And Tudor-Jackson is no villain evading the law, but an artist and designer with a reverence for the warm, free-flowing architecture of Frank Lloyd Wright.
The organic materials, an economic use of space and a deliberate harmony with its natural surroundings captivated Tudor-Jackson the first time he saw this ivy-cloaked house hiding in Los Alamos Canyon, near Santa Rosa’s Hood Mountain.
“When I first came up here I totally fell in love,” he said. “You feel like you’re completely out in the boonies, like you’re going to run into a moose.”
It was no coincidence that the house, to Tudor-Jackson’s eye, had a come-hither look. The two-bedroom, two-bath home was designed by Gary Tucker. As a young student of architecture at UC Berkeley in the 1950s, Tucker spent a year as an apprentice at Wright’s headquarters in Wisconsin and Arizona, Taliesin East and West.
Tucker was turned on to Wright, regarded by the American Institute of Architects as the greatest U.S. architect of all time, when he was a high school student in Southern California.
“I was sitting in the waiting room of a doctor’s office and picked up a copy of some home magazine and there was a freshly minted picture of Fallingwater in Pennsylvania,” Tucker said, referring to the home breathtakingly cantilevered over a waterfall that is one of Wright’s most recognizable works. “I saw that house and decided that’s what I wanted to be. I spent a lot of time in the library reading up on his work and finally decided after I graduated that I would go and interview with him.”
Apprentices met directly with the master, who by then was at the end of his life. Wright died a year after Tucker completed his internship in 1958.
“You interviewed with Mr. Wright and if he liked what he saw in you and your work, you were accepted,” Tucker recalled. “He was so brilliant as a designer that for young architectural students who were inclined to that kind of work, it was nirvana working with him.”
Tucker went on to establish his own practice in Marin County before moving north in 1977 to Sonoma County. He designed many homes in breathtaking locations with dramatic geometric lines. For a home at Timber Cove, he created a long, narrow walkway that cantilevers in a heart-stopping way, out over the rocky cliff. A house on a golf course in Santa Rosa has curvaceous walls and pyramid roofs.
He relishes the challenge of difficult sites, as was the case with the property in Los Alamos Canyon, where Tucker chose to build his own live-work dream house in 1984.
“Basically, the intent was to make something that was totally in agreement with the beautiful setting, which meant a partially subterranean house dug into the hillside and opening out to big panoramic views on both sides,” he said.
The site was so steep that Tucker enlisted MKM & Associates in Santa Rosa to draw up plans, which called for bolting the house into a cement block, itself bolted into the mountain with steel and concrete piers.
“There’s nothing more boring than a flat piece of dirt,” said Tucker, 83.
He designed a 1,750-square-foot house that served his and his wife’s needs, with nothing superfluous.
“Our budget was restricted and we didn’t have any kids. We could make it into an adult’s environment and kept it compact for that purpose,” he said.
There is a cathedral-like quality to the design, with a central living room and kitchen under a 16-foot-high gabled roof with a rounded skylight along the spine. The two interior spaces are separated only by a formidable fireplace of red-brick blocks with ceramic brick facing. Two wings extend in either direction, like transepts from the nave of a church. On either side is a bedroom and bath, although one of the rooms served as Tucker’s work nook.
In keeping with Wright’s design principles, Tucker made use of different ceiling heights to create distinct spaces while keeping everything open. The bedroom and office ceilings drop to a cozy 8 feet.
Tucker continued to live and work at the Los Alamos Canyon house until age and a mild case of Parkinson’s disease made it too difficult for him to manage the steep slope and many steps. He moved to Oakmont and put his house on the market.
When Tudor-Jackson first saw the home, it seemed as if the forest had reclaimed it. Tucker had designed a living roof and planted ivy, but the vines had all but covered the structure. A long series of steps leads down to the front door from a parking terrace. Looking down from above, it appears like a hobbit house snuggled into the earth.
Tudor-Jackson and his spouse, Douglas Atkin, who works for Airbnb, were living in San Francisco and in the process of giving up a 200-year-old farmhouse and estate in upstate New York when Tudor-Jackson felt a pull back to the country.
It was a chance stay at an Occidental Airbnb cottage owned by Virginia Rago, a project planner and designer, that drew him to Sonoma. He returned to the cottage several times and the two became friends. At one point he told Rago, “I have to live in Sonoma County someday.”
“I went onto Zillow and for six months every morning I’d spend my coffee time looking all over California for just a cabin in the woods somewhere,” Tudor-Jackson said. “And then I saw how much property cost in California and I got really discouraged.”
In all that time, the only listing he bookmarked was an intriguing house in rural Santa Rosa. But when Tudor-Jackson called to inquire, it was already under contract for sale. He arranged to see it anyway, selling himself as a potential backup if the deal fell through. The day he met Gary Tucker at the house in December 2013 was the very day escrow closed on his 200-acre farm in New York, leaving him feeling both wistful and hopeful.
“When I was standing outside with Gary, I don’t know what it was, but we really connected,” Tudor-Jackson remembered. “Here he had designed and built it himself and lived in it for 30 years. I expressed to him how I understand what that means and that although it was already in contract, I reassured him — telling him it was going to be mine and that I’m going to take the best care of it in the world and love every corner of it.”
The next day the first offer fell through. The house was Tudor’s for $700,000. But until escrow closed on Jan. 31, 2014, he was “manically obsessed.”
“There wasn’t a day I wouldn’t look at a picture of the house and say, ‘You’re going to be mine,’” he said.
He immediately set to work restoring it, enlisting Rago to help. With a math degree from Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute in Troy, N.Y., she has a mind for engineering and construction challenges and even knew some of the contractors who had worked on other Gary Tucker homes.
“My heart is in the structure. I do furnishings, but that’s not my love,” Rago said. “My love is in the lines and making it work, making it flow. This is not a house you can show to just anyone and say, ‘Help us fix it.’ Most people don’t understand how it’s put together. But we were able to find the people who had worked on it.”
Tudor-Jackson’s work, nonetheless, has been mainly cosmetic, intended only to enhance what is already there. He cut back the overgrown ivy to reveal the striking geometry of the house. He replaced the ivy on the roof with a planting of wildflowers. Indoors, he applied beeswax, orange oil and a steam mop to bring out the beautiful grains of the woodwork. Rather than replace the studio tile, he meticulously brought it back to life with a wire brush. One of the few changes he made was to rip up the shag carpet and replace the concrete floor underneath with brick-shaped African black slate.
The furnishings, including an Eames coffee table and chair, also speak to the modern period. Tudor-Jackson’s pride and joy is his dining room set, a 1966 design by modernist Vladimir Kagan that was featured on “Star Trek.” He found it at a consignment shop in Marin and loves the fact that they were born in the same year.
His most recent project was a complete renovation of the swimming pool. It now has Mediterranean-blue plastering and is tiled with black slate that matches the redone flooring indoors.
Tudor-Jackson still makes his primary home in San Francisco and rents his “lair” on Airbnb when he’s not inhabiting it himself. He made Tucker’s desk into a daybed for guests, and the living room couch converts into a queen-size bed. It’s not the kind of house, he said, that is simply a spot to alight after flitting among restaurants and wineries. Mostly, whether he’s there alone with his two little hounds, Lady Margaret and Sir Oliver, or with friends, they all hunker down like summer camp. “We’re here. We dive into the pool and when we go out, we go hiking and then we come back and dive into the pool.”
Although there is more work ahead to preserve and restore Tucker’s dream home, Tudor-Jackson vows to never touch the architecture itself.
“I’m going to restore it like someone would clean a fine painting or revive a fresco,” he declared. “To me, it’s like a sacred art piece.”
Rancho Wikiup, a 100-year-old stable where famous thoroughbreds once pranced, is now home to Carlos and Nancy Guevara, who renovated the property and raised their family there. When their children trotted off, they turned this landmark that housed horse soldiers during World War II into a wedding and event venue extraordinaire.
Originally built by San Francisco industrialist John Rosseter in 1915, the 21,000-square-foot structure in the Larkfield-Wikiup neighborhood north of Santa Rosa is made of clear-grain Douglas fir, not a knot to be found. It surrounds a courtyard where horses grazed and couples now say their vows. Most of the stable doors are intact, with their original handmade hammered-brass hinges and silver door handles. Even the black stains from horse drool add authentic flair.
In the early 1990s, the Guevaras were living in Berkeley in a Victorian house they had completely upgraded. Ready for a new project and yearning for a more rural lifestyle, they began a search for a fixer-upper with an in-law unit on a large lot. Carlos had seen Wikiup in a magazine ad, and the family took a drive on a rainy Sunday to see it. A week later, in spring 1992, the place was theirs. “It was completely dilapidated,” Nancy said.
They moved into the ranch manager’s residence, giving Nancy’s father the only bedroom, and for six months she and Carlos shared an outdoor deck with their children, Erika and Gabriel, using sleeping bags and watching the sun rise and set. Carlos, a general contractor, started turning the hayloft into the master suite while sprucing up two existing rooms above the stables for the kids.
The room that became Erika’s has an autograph etched into the wood under the window that reads: Sgt. Milton L. Chenoweth, Btry. C 74th F. A., 5/14/42. Chenoweth was a mounted soldier with Battery C, one of the artillerymen who lived at what became Camp Wikiup when the U.S. Army requisitioned the property while guarding the coast during World War II.
For years after the Guevaras moved in, they used an itty-bitty kitchen that still remains in the ranch manager’s quarters. Nancy said even after Carlos completed the now-airy, high-end kitchen, she had become so used to cramped living that she would sit at the antique table and eat off her lap. Above the new kitchen island hang pendant lamps made of sheared agates, created by Nancy’s father, Dr. Kenneth S. Dod, who died in 2008. He also made the living room table and wind chimes.
The kitchen and a rustic recreation room with a pool table are in the south leg of the square of buildings that surround the courtyard. The kitchen adjoins the east side, the entire length of which has been turned into living space, with a dining room, great room and sitting area, wine storage downstairs and three bedrooms upstairs. Carlos built an open stairway connecting the two floors, fashioning it from fir salvaged from the horse stalls. Here and there are pieces of railing gnawed by Rosseter’s horses in the early 1920s.
Rosseter, who lived in San Francisco and was the owner of a steamship company and president of a flour mill, built Rancho Wikiup to raise thoroughbreds, and he and his wife spent leisure time there, often entertaining. The most famous of his horses was Disguise II, who won the Jockey Club Stakes, placed third in the Epsom Derby in 1900, and sired many winners in the racing world.
By the time the Guevaras acquired the property in 1992, the original 800-acre ranch overlooking Mark West Creek had been subdivided. The Guevaras own 11 acres. A hot tub and cobblestone-encased lap pool are nestled on the hillside among oak and bay trees behind the converted stables.
There is a parking area for 50 cars, graced with sculptures created by Carlos, who was an art student in his native Spain when he met Nancy while she was studying abroad in 1973. He moved to the Bay Area and they married. His knowledge of art is seen throughout Rancho Wikiup, its walls graced with interesting pieces he’s collected at auctions and galleries.
The couple renovated approximately 50 percent of the building, with the north side and much of the west side remaining as stables in their original condition. When weddings are held at the property, the great room is converted to a dance floor, with all the furniture moved out and stored in the stables.
Weddings are the most recent chapter of Rancho Wikiup’s history. Until the early 2000s, it was just the Guevara home. Erika had a horse, and the family had goats, chickens, ducks and dogs, living a busy family life. Once the kids were grown and gone, Carlos and Nancy had the idea to convert it to a bed-and-breakfast, haphazardly putting up a website that resulted in instant success. They started getting requests to use the property as an event venue, and now they rent only the entire space, not single rooms, while they bunk in the ranch manager’s residence.
Erika was married at Rancho Wikiup, and she and her bridesmaids honored the Wikiup tradition by wearing cowboy boots with their gowns.
Tiring for a while of all the work involved in hosting visitors and keeping up an aging site, the Guevaras listed the property for sale in 2011 at $2.5 million.
It sat on the market for two years, with an interesting array of potential owners wanting to make Rancho Wikiup a boutique hotel, yoga retreat or other business. But there was always some barrier. In the end, the Guevaras decided to stay put.
“It’s so nice here, quiet and pleasant all the time. We feel like we are living in a time capsule, in a different era,” Nancy said. “We plan to stay here until we drop dead.”
For more about Rancho Wikiup, call 707-495-3039 or go online to ranchowikiup1.homestead.com
Brien Farrell remembers the day but not the pain. Maybe the feelings are fuzzy because he was only a small boy of 6. But he suspects the wound to his family left by separation was so deep he simply “blocked it out.”
On that day in 1958 Tom Farrell and his wife, Evelyn, pregnant with their fourth child, piled Brien and his two younger sisters into the station wagon and made the half-hour drive to Eldridge, just past the village of Glen Ellen. They returned to Santa Rosa with only two kids in the back seat and an emptiness that would linger for decades.
Missing was Susan, a dark-haired, dark-eyed child of 4. She was tiny, self-contained, unable to speak and averse to touch. As time went on it became clear she was not developing like her siblings.
It was a time when there were few services available for the disabled outside of institutions and even Evelyn, a trained nurse, felt unequipped for Susan’s special needs, which included autism and an IQ of 17. A concerned family pediatrician recommended she be admitted to Sonoma State Hospital.
Susan would come home for holidays and visits but never to live. She would remain forever to her family a “Heavenly Guest,” as her father described her in a poem that became an anthem to the daughter he relinquished but never stopped loving with a longing so fierce that it turned him into a national crusader for the disabled until his death last year at 88. A building at Sonoma Developmental Center bears his name.
Separating from Susan, Brien Farrell remembers with a wince, “was the hardest thing my family ever had to do. It wasn’t done impulsively.”
When Susan arrived 57 years ago, “Sonoma” (as it was often called) had 3,200 residents, many of them children, a waiting list half as long and a staff of 1,300 in starched white uniforms.
She is now one of fewer than 400 residents who remain on a 945-acre campus targeted for closure under a proposal by Gov. Jerry Brown. With 1,305 jobs, the center is Sonoma Valley’s largest employer. The State Department of Developmental Services, which oversees the center, in October will submit a plan to the Legislature to shut down Sonoma Developmental Center by the end of 2018.
Many disability advocates applaud the move, saying that large institutions are an anachronism.
“It’s an outdated mode of treatment. As a society we don’t
segregate groups of people anymore based on anything,” said Katie Hornberger, director of the office of Clients’ Rights Advocacy with Disability Rights California, which advocates for the disabled. Her office works under contract to the Department of Developmental Services, which oversees the care of 280,000 individuals, most served by 21 community-based centers. Only about 1,030 residents remain in the three remaining developmental centers (Sonoma, Costa Mesa and Porterville).
“We wouldn’t buy a 1,000-acre parcel and say this is just for women or one racial group. When we look at why we integrate people, the benefits are amazing,” Hornberger added, noting that communities become more sensitive and accepting while the disabled themselves are given opportunities they didn’t have before.
But some families, like the Farrells, feel blindsided by the news that the state intends to shutter the Sonoma center so fast. For their loved ones, Sonoma is not a cold and impersonal institution, but home — sometimes the only one they have ever known. Despite a state pledge of nearly $50 million to transition the remaining residents into community homes and services, some families fear inferior care will put their relatives at risk.
Family members of SDC residents are not alone in their concerns. A report earlier this year by the Association of Regional Centers warned that years of underfunding of community-based services for the developmentally disabled have left the system “on the brink of collapse.” Service providers have been forced to trim their standards or close altogether, and regional centers have increased their case-loads to “above legally required levels.” The impact of underfunding, the report said, has left the developmentally disabled increasingly “without adequate services and supports to meet their needs.”
“I do think people safely transition. But there are gaps in community care and people are falling through them,” said Kathleen Miller. Her son, Danny Smith, an autistic with developmental disabilities and mental illness, was kicked out of two community homes and was often in restraints at other facilities. Since he came to Sonoma 15 years ago, she said, he has been so much better.
Still, the state’s developmental centers have had their dark chapters, among them overcrowding, allegations of forced sterilization, and medical experiments done on people with cerebral palsy at Sonoma in the 1950s. In the 1990s, after a teenage boy was found injured and lying in a pool of blood in a shower, a class-action lawsuit resulted in a settlement that stepped up the exodus of residents from developmental centers.
There have been other troubling reports of neglect and abuse at the Sonoma facility over the years. Investigations into allegations of unsafe care at Eldridge put federal funding for 11 units in its intermediate care facility in peril two years ago. Investigators said center staff failed to protect clients and did not follow proper medication protocols.
The center lost federal certification for four of the units, so the annual $13 million funding had to be taken from the state’s general fund. This summer, an agreement was reached that preserves federal Medicaid funding for the other seven units under certification.
State officials stress that the decision to shut down its remaining developmental centers reflects a nationwide shift in how people with developmental disabilities are served, a shift that began more than 45 years ago.
But expense is part of the equation. The state has estimated that the cost of caring for a single person at a developmental center has risen to $500,000 a year, compared to an estimated $75,000 to $300,000 in community care centers.
There is also widespread community interest in what happens to the land. Most of Eldridge is undeveloped, some 700 acres of redwoods and large stands of ancient oaks. Forests of evergreens and shimmering meadows of grass unfold into panoramic views of the upper Valley of the Moon, the same land that inspired the pen of neighboring rancher Jack London.
It is wild, patrolled by Golden Eagles, spotted owls, bobcats and mountain lions. Sonoma Creek, habitat for threatened steelhead trout and endangered California freshwater shrimp, meanders through on the valley floor and Suttonfield Lake, a reservoir for the center, seeps unseen through the folds of the hills along its eastern border next to Sonoma Valley Regional Park.
Surrounded by 9,000 acres of protected open space and parks, Sonoma Developmental Center is a prized piece of land coveted by environmentalists and recreation advocates determined to keep it protected for wildlife and public use.
When Susan Farrell arrived at the Sonoma center, it was a bustling world apart, a self-sufficient community in a sylvan setting at the base of Sonoma Mountain, adjoining Jack London’s beloved Beauty Ranch. It had its own post office, police and fire departments, cottage industries, dairy and hog farm, and a morgue and cemetery. A reporter at the time observed that it looked “more like a country estate than an institution,” with long stretches of neatly kept lawn and gardens, baseball fields and playgrounds.
Most of the residents had mild to severe developmental disabilities. But sprinkled within the population were more than a few unfortunates who were mentally able but dumped there for dubious reasons lost to time.
“People were there for hundreds of different reasons,” said Markley Sutton, a retired program director and senior psychologist who worked at Sonoma Developmental Center for more than 30 years. “I had a guy who came over to San Francisco on a three-masted schooner. He was just a sailor in a bar on the Barbary Coast. He got picked up and brought to Sonoma.”
Social attitudes, however, were already shifting. One hospital officer told a reporter in 1958 that state hospitals existed to provide care only until society had “matured” to a level where it was ready to give families the support they needed to keep their children out of big institutions.
In the 1960s, California schools were required to provide training programs for “the trainable retarded” and the state set up a series of regional centers to oversee support and services in the communities. Beginning in 1969, the Lanterman Act established that people with developmental disabilities and their families are entitled to the services and support they need to live like everyone else. California began emptying its institutions.
But Susan Farrell stayed at the Sonoma facility. Her family was convinced that despite its flaws, the large staff at Sonoma Developmental Center was then, and is now, better equipped to care for her than a private care home. She defies any easy label, said her brother, Brien. Susan has “pervasive developmental disabilities,” a seizure disorder and cerebral palsy.
Her life is simple. She has a day program where she might play with trucks (she prefers shiny red ones and likes to sleep with them) or gaze at magazines. She can’t read but Brien suspects she may be drawn to the colors. She prefers to stand at the sidelines of activities and groups, observing, and habitually walks in and out of the front door multiple times a day.
He visits regularly, taking her for small walks or out to McDonald’s, one of the most accepting places in Sonoma, he says, for a cheeseburger and coke with no ice.
“She has a social worker who is her advocate and ferocious about making sure any medical appointment or other service that Susan needs are taken care of,” said Farrell, a retired Santa Rosa city attorney who now shares conservatorship over Susan with his wife, Kathy. “There is a day program and there is music. There is a physician who has treated her for 16 years, a gentle, soft-spoken man who works there because he is drawn to working there, not because he was forced to. There are psych techs who have worked with her for many years. Some interact with her every day.”
Eldridge is, by bits and pieces, turning into a ghost town. Twelve of the 145 buildings, many predating World War II, stand empty in varying stages of deterioration. They include the stately brick administration building that has loomed at the end of the main, palm-lined approach since 1908. Many of the old residence “cottages” are now used for offices and storage. Monthly, the center holds public rummage sales to offload furniture and equipment.
Those who are left are, like Susan, older, beset with difficult-to-manage behaviors or are medically fragile. Although they range in age from 23 to 91, 75 percent are older than 50.
The lingering public perception about people in large institutions is one of neglect, souls locked away, abandoned and unloved. In fact, parents in the old days frequently were encouraged to cut ties with their children once they were admitted to the center, out of the misguided belief that it was the best thing, Sutton said.
And yet there are others, including the Farrells and Kathleen Miller, who heads the vocal Parent Hospital Association at Sonoma Developmental Center, who have held on to their family ties with a devotion both tender and unyielding. Not every resident is so fortunate. Only half have a family member serving as a legal conservator.
The story of these last remaining families is also the story of the 124-year-old Eldridge. As residents have aged or passed on, a brother, sister, niece or nephew has stepped forward to maintain the bond, gain conservatorship and watch out for their welfare.
For Mary Ferrario, the ties stretch more than 80 years. She was only 7, growing up on a small farm in San Lorenzo, now San Leandro, when her mother went to juvenile court in downtown Oakland to have her brother, Frankie Magliotto, committed to the Sonoma State Home. She did it only under pressure from a social worker who was concerned that Mary wasn’t going to school. Magliotto, born a year before her with serious brain injuries, was following her to school.
“I remember him always coming around and destroying things that I had,” Ferrario recalled. “My mother kept me home so she could watch him and watch me. She said she couldn’t be in two places at one time.”
Ferrario’s mother was born to an Italian family in South America. Her father was from Italy. There was no help and no respite for an immigrant mother with limited English during the depths of the Depression.
The entire family unfailingly made the long drive to Sonoma on the first Sunday of the month, her mother always at the wheel. They would leave at 6 a.m. and return 12 hours later.
“I think she was relieved,” said Ferrario, “but it must have been a heavy cross for her to bear.”
The little girl who still remembers that melancholy first trip to Sonoma on Aug. 20, 1934 — the date burned into her memory because it was the Feast of St. Bernardo — is now 87, recently widowed and a cancer survivor.
She has made that trip faithfully for 80 years. When her son and daughter were born in the 1960s, they, too, came along. In the early years they would bring Magliotto home for overnight visits. But after a medical scare kept the family up all night, they began picking him up in the morning, bringing him home and then driving him back to Eldridge at night, more than 260 miles on the road. On holidays, Ferrario said, her mother would set out a plate for Magliotto, even when he wasn’t there.
Now she comes with her son, Paul, 54, his wife, Julie, and their three young children, all equally devoted to their Uncle Frank.
On one summer day they arrive at his unit brimming with affection and laden with amusements to pique his interest.
Ferrario greets her brother with a kiss and sits close so they each can hear one another, leaning in and taking his gnarled hand into her own. Sometimes when she wants to make sure he understands, she falls back into the Italian language of their childhood, which he still remembers.
“Now he seems more like my child than my brother,” she conceded.
Paul Ferrario is an equal champion for his only uncle. His affection runs deep. On this visit he has brought empty containers of common items: sardines, ketchup, little things that will intrigue his uncle. He has also rigged a board with old electrical insulators he found around the house, similar to something that amused Magliotto as a little boy back on the farm. Ferrario for years has searched out the old transistor radios his uncle still cherishes. Magliotto’s physical needs now are considerable, yet his desires are simple.
Painfully shy as a boy, Ferrario said he believes he learned a few things about life observing his uncle, who has always been unselfconscious and guileless, endlessly curious about little things, and who seems to know everyone in Sonoma Valley. Before he suffered a stroke last year, Magliotto would be taken by his family to Mary’s Pizza Shack, or Eraldi’s for new clothes. He had no fear about walking up and asking people questions. Guys in trucks would drive by, lean out the window and call his name. Ferrario said he observed with envy the women who would come up to them in line at the drug store to greet Frank.
“Invariably,” he dryly recalled, “they were gorgeous.”
When he was still in his 20s, his mother recruited Paul and his sister, Julia Sells, who lives in Arizona, to be co-conservators for Uncle Frank. He wound up as president of the Parent Hospital Association and a vociferous advocate, traveling to Sacramento and Washington, D.C., to speak out for services, funding and the Sonoma Developmental Center.
“I found my inner voice,” Ferrario said.
He didn’t marry until he was in his 40s. But he said he knew he had found the right one in Julie when she connected immediately with Uncle Frank.
Now Ferrario is doing everything he can to make sure that Magliotto can live out his remaining days in his home of 80 years, in the place that is familiar, and with staff who know him and treat him like extended family.
Ferrario said he remembers as a boy looking at Magliotto’s bed lined up with so many others and feeling sorry that he didn’t have his own bedroom. But now he does, a room he shares with another man and that is filled with pictures and the things he loves, such as his transistor radio, toys, and the cattails he knits from yarn and that Mary has crocheted into any number of rugs and chairpads scattered throughout her house.
Over the years, Magliotto attended ballgames in San Francisco and visited the beach at Bodega Bay. He enjoyed the many activities at the rehabilitation center, particularly the Halloween parade.
“I think he had a wonderful life,” said Mary Ferrario.
Reflecting back, her son, an administrative analyst for East Bay Regional Parks, said whatever he has given, he has received back in spades from his relationship with his uncle.
“It helps you cut through all the noise we have in society, all of the superficial things. All of the vanities that surround us in life,” he said. “It struck me as a teenager. My mom over the years brought Frank a couple of TV sets. He wanted no part of them. He knew the people on the tube weren’t real. There are always treacherous people in life driven by jealousy and ambition. You visit somebody like Frankie, it brings back the humanity and balances out the distasteful part of life.”
When Pat Walter tried to get her severely disabled daughter, Andrea, admitted to Sonoma Developmental Center 14 years ago, the door was all but locked. She found a Napa attorney who was willing to go up against the Department of Developmental Services in court. It took months, but Walter was determined and prevailed.
At the time, Andrea had been at Queen of the Valley Hospital in Napa for months with recurring pneumonia. The hospital wanted to discharge her. Walter felt her daughter, who could no longer swallow food, was too fragile to live at home in Napa or in a community care home like the one in St. Helena where she had resided from age 7 to 19, coming home on weekends for visits.
“They wanted me to send her to a geriatric nursing home,” Walter said. “It was good, but they didn’t have the kind of care she needed. They didn’t have the suctioning for her lungs. There was a whole plethora of things they didn’t have.”
When Andrea was born in 1981, she was a rare perfect 10 on the Apgar chart that scores the health of newborns. She seemed to be thriving for her first two months, smiling and waving her arms. Then it all stopped, right after her first immunizations at 2 months old. For two days, Andrea, was quiet, then woke up crying and screaming. Tests at 7 months showed abnormalities. Anti-seizure medication calmed her down, Walter said, but she wasn’t developing. Her slowness was all the more apparent when her sister, Carolyn, was born two years later.
Walter, a clinical microbiologist, suspects there might be a correlation between her daughter’s disability and the shots. But neither she nor her ex-husband, a neurologist, pressed a case.
“I believe in immunizations, but if I had known my child would be the one to pay the price, I would have withheld. Yet they’re so important to society,” she said.
At 67, Walter still mothers her frail oldest daughter, whom she affectionately calls Sweet Pea. She visits once a week. While there are no heart-to-heart talks, Andrea likes to be talked to, her mother said, and makes little noises back. They connect over the tiniest of things. Walter will brush her child’s teeth and her hair, convinced she enjoys being touched.
Andrea has advanced osteoporosis and her bones are brittle; a recent hip fracture was discovered by center staff through a routine check of her vitals.
Walter worries about her daughter’s future and the ability of a smaller facility with fewer staff to handle Andrea’s intensive needs or know if she is in pain.
“One of the main things is that there is round-the-clock nursing care. At Sonoma, they move her every two hours so she doesn’t get bed sores. They know how to clean her properly. They do vital signs three times a day. They picked up that she had a necrotic gallbladder just through her blood pressure. I know that may be an unreasonable standard of care, but as long as it exists,” she declared, “I’m going to get the best for her so she won’t suffer.”
Walter said she understands that many people with mild to moderate disabilities are far better off in the community. But for Andrea, some well-intentioned efforts to normalize her, in fact, overlook her real needs. Her daughter doesn’t need “privacy,” as some advocates would argue. She enjoys company and would be lonely, her mother said. “If she’s not sick and weather is permitting, I get her up in her chair and take her for a walk. She likes it slow so she can look at things. She likes the firetrucks. I help her touch the chrome. She loves looking up at the trees.”
Kathleen Miller’s concerns are different for her son, Danny. At 48, he looks like any other man, except for the plush dog named Tom that he carries everywhere.
He can converse in simple ways and is free to walk around Sonoma Developmental Center, taking familiar routes. He walks to his vocational training program at Sunrise Industries past the small Junior Farm, where he does small jobs such as shredding paper. He makes a little money, which he spends on treats at the center’s store.
He can exhibit the sweetness of a little boy and often is endearing, with his flatteries and expressions of affection. But he also is volatile, and that is what worries his family.
Some advocates for closure of the center have suggested that the families who oppose the move are stuck in the past and don’t understand what’s available and why the community is better.
“There is some truth to that, especially among the older ones who have had family members in Sonoma so long they’ve never bothered to look. But some of us are more savvy. I’ve been out there. I’ve visited those homes. I’ve asked questions,” said Miller, who lives in Santa Rosa. A youthful blonde of 69, she had Danny when she was 21.
A single mom, she raised him at home along with her daughter, Molly Dillon, who is one year younger than Danny.
“He was this blond-haired, green-eyed little boy, very athletic, he was in Special Olympics, and beautiful,” said Dillon, an assistant city attorney for Santa Rosa and a co-conservator for her brother. “As much as he was difficult, he also gave us a lot of joy. He could be very funny.”
Once he hit puberty, however, Danny exhibited signs of bipolar disorder. It was too much for Miller, who had gone back to school to become a psychiatric social worker. For years she struggled to find the right placement for him. He was kicked out of several group homes, landed more than once in an acute psychiatric hospital, and spent time at several other developmental centers, including Camarillo, which shut down in 1997, forcing her to find a community placement that also didn’t work out.
“He will make threats. He will tell people to get out of his way if he wants something. He threatens to hurt himself. Sometimes he is self-abusive. He would pick and bite at his finger and skin until it was bleeding,” Dillon said of her brother in his most anxious times.
Without careful management of his medication, he would sometimes need to be restrained. His usually tough mother tears up remembering times when he was so debilitated.
But since he came to Sonoma in 2000, Danny has not needed restraint. He is free to walk the grounds without danger of frightening someone or getting into trouble with people who don’t understand his disabilities, his mother said.
The complexities of caring for someone like Danny, she explained, have “made me a stark raving maniac advocate person.” She also came to understand it from the inside, after working seven years as a psychiatric social worker at SDC.
“I think there were years when there were too many people at the developmental centers and the care wasn’t as good. I haven’t experienced those years. By the time Danny got to Camarillo, they were beyond that. The whole time he’s been in a developmental center, I’ve never seen the things they talked about in the days of old. I’ve always seen caring staff and competence.”
Miller and other parents are fighting fier cely to ensure that when the Sonoma center inevitably closes, the types of community homes needed by the medically fragile and those with severe behavior problems will be in place and that crisis and other support services will remain at Eldridge.
Their loved ones, they say, are worth it.
“I adore him,” Miller said of Danny, quietly through a tight throat. “He’s got the sweetest heart. To know him is to love him. He annoys the hell out of me and other people sometimes. But he fights to be good. He has such a hard time. It’s not fair. But you know? Life’s not fair.”
She and others are quick to point out that the effort has its returns. Their loved ones, children, their siblings, their uncles, have taught them lessons about compassion, commitment and the preciousness of life at its most fundamental.
After he retired as an attorney, Brien Farrell took on a second career teaching civics and economics at Elsie Allen High School with a student body both diverse and economically challenged. He loved it and he loved the spirit and hearts of his students.
“I don’t think I would have done that,” he said, “if not for Susan.”
Walter said when she realized Andrea was not going to be “normal,” she grieved. “I would wake up from a dream where she would be talking, and suddenly she wasn’t talking anymore. But it’s been a long time. Being with Andrea is like meditating, because it’s so simple and without guilt. It’s restful, nourishing, comforting. Life, for her, is what it is right now. There are very few things in our lives that are like that.
“I guess if you wanted to give me another normal daughter, I would be happy with that. But I wouldn’t change Andrea for a normal daughter. She’s the one I love now.”