Just a quick hit on this brand new downtown Santa Rosa restaurant before I do a deeper dive in the coming weeks, but The County Bench seems to be an out-of-the-gate hit. Michelin-starred chef Bruce Frieseke (Applewood, Bella Vineyards) and Ben Davies (Petite Syrah, Spoonbar, Mirepoix) are flexing their culinary muscles with seemingly simple dishes that are anything but.
Popcorn+corn ($4) is popcorn with freeze dried powdered corn and chili sprinkled on top that’s so addictive you’ll want one to take home. Deviled eggs get upstaged by deviled Brussels sprouts ($4), and sizzling side dish of cauliflower, brown butter and oxtail ($8) stole the show. Desserts are stunners, and the wine list is an ambitious 10-plus pages.
Popcorn + corn at County Bench in Santa Rosa.
Craft cocktails are having a spring resurgence, and their NYC cocktail wrangler knows his way around the bar with insanely complicated sippers like a clarified Milk Punch ($13) with jasmine tea, arrack (a rare spirit from Southeast Asia) and gin along with simpler classic cocktails. We’re stoked to see a restaurant this cosmopolitan on Fourth St. , and hope its a sign of more great things to come.
Milk punch at County Bench in Santa Rosa.
Keep in mind, this isn’t a stuffed shirt spot (though its pretty swank for dinner), and is serving both lunch and brunch on the weekend.
Hours: Lunch Monday through Friday from 11:30a.m. to 2p.m., dinner from 5p.m. daily, Brunch 10a.m. to 2p.m. Saturday and Sunday and happy hour Monday through Friday from 4-6p.m. 535 Fourth St., Santa Rosa.
Photography by Heather Irwin.
Deviled brussels sprouts at The County Bench in Santa Rosa, CA.Cauliflower with oxtail.Dessert of sour creme mousse, chocolate crispies, ganache.
Clad in neon pink sequins and flowers, “Diva D” boasted before hundreds of people in downtown Guerneville Sunday that Sonoma County’s Pride Parade is more successful than it’s ever been.
“We were a smashing success last year,” said “Diva D,” as David Goyes is known in drag. And turnout at this year’s festival celebrating the lesbian, gay, bisexual and transgender community likely beat last year’s numbers, parade organizers said.
“This is such a great time because it draws out everyone — it’s not just the gay community, it’s the whole community,” said Goyes, an organizer for the popular event. “I feel like the gay community is not often recognized in Sonoma County, so this is great.”
Jeunesse Monroespeed plays the saxophone with the San Francisco Freedom Band during the 2016 Sonoma County Gay Pride Parade in Guerneville. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
An estimated 1,500 people were expected to take part over the celebration’s four-day run, which kicked off Thursday with an LGBTQ film festival in Monte Rio.
Sunday’s annual parade drew hundreds of people to the streets of Guerneville. Songs by Prince blared over loud speakers, rainbow flags flew in the entrances of downtown businesses and kids frolicked in the sun-drenched streets as the parade passed the river town’s historic main street.
“This is the best pride parade around,” said Ukiah resident Tony Berno, who regularly visits Guerneville during pride week. “We love coming here. It’s perfect — swimming in the river, walking in the woods and having fun. There’s not too many towns like Guerneville.”
Sonoma County has a 30-year tradition of gay pride celebrations, and the Guerneville parade has become wildly popular among pride celebrations across the Bay Area.
“It has more of a community feel compared to San Francisco’s big pride celebration,” Goyes said. “We love San Francisco — it’s the mothership for the gay community, but this is important in Guerneville to help break down some of the stereotypes out there.”
Jennifer Lux dancing in the street during 2016 Sonoma County Pride Parade in Guerneville. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Similar pride events held around the nation during June commemorate the Stonewall riot that erupted June 28, 1969, after a police raid on a West Village gay bar in New York City. They also provide opportunities for self-affirmation and validation of sexual and gender diversity.
San Francisco was home to another rebellion in favor of LGBTQ rights prior to Stonewall, when in 1966 a group of people rioted at Compton’s Cafeteria in the Tenderloin District. The restaurant at the time was a mingling space for transgender people.
Such monumental events have paved the way for more rights for LGBTQ people, but many still experience discrimination in schools, the workplace and in receiving services such as health care, some parade attendees said.
Phillip Evans rides on a float during the 2016 Sonoma County Pride Parade in Guerneville. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Jody Laine, an organizer for the Monte Rio film festival called “OUTWatch,” said seeing LGBTQ people in the larger community helps further the quest for equality.
“It’s really important to let people know we’re still here and to let newcomers know that they’re welcome. And what better a place for this? Guerneville is known as a marvelous mecca for the gay community.” Laine said. “It’s important to have a center even though we’ve been integrated in the community for a long time. It wasn’t always that way.”
For more highlights from 2016 Sonoma County Pride Parade, browse the gallery below.
Members of The Hubbub Club take part in the Sonoma County Gay Pride Parade. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)Nick Carrigan adjusts his butterfly wings before walking in the Sonoma County Pride Parade. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)Vince Baker blows bubbles from atop a float during the Sonoma County Gay Pride Parade. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)Ramon Ramirez leads a group from Kaiser Permanente during 2016 Sonoma County Pride Parade. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)Larry Taylor, left, and his partner Danny Garcia walk towards downtown Guerneville during Sonoma County Gay Pride Parade. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)Paradegoers ride atop the Rainbow Cattle Co. float during the Sonoma County Gay Pride Parade. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
What’s the going rate to tour South Africa and see the island jail cell where the country’s late president, Nelson Mandela, spent 18 years in captivity? Well, if you purchased the trip at Saturday’s Auction Napa Valley charity wine event, it would have set you back seven figures.
The Staglin Family Vineyard’s “Into Africa” lot, including the aforementioned tour, sold for $1.05 million, boosting the auction’s weekend take to a $14.3 million, a dip from last year’s $15.8 million.
Guests wave their bidding paddles in the air before the auction commences during Auction Napa Valley at Meadowood Napa Valley in St. Helena, California on Saturday, June 4, 2016. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
Nearly 900 auction attendees, paddles in hand, gathered under the white tent at St. Helena’s Meadowood Resort to bid on lots that included premium wines, international trips, catered parties and other high-dollar amenities.
Some had shocking price tags.
Chris Yelich, the new co-owner of the Napa Valley Wine Train and a first-time auction-goer, said he was “blown away” by how high the bids spiraled.
“I had no idea lots would go for such big numbers,” he said. “It’s very cool to see that happening for the charities.”
The auction, in its 36th year, caps a week of fundraising events put on by the Napa Valley Vintners to benefit local nonprofits focusing on community health and children’s education. Another first-time auction-goer, Angela Jorgensen, said she was as impressed with what was going on outside the white tent as she was with the fundraising inside.
Jorgensen, from Tiburon, witnessed the spectacle of headliner chef Francis Mallmann’s dinner preparations, which included a number of domed rebar spits where 750 pounds of rib eye and whole chickens cooked in the open air over flames and hot coals.
Nearby on the manicured grounds of Meadowood, a half a ton of vegetables were roasting underground.
“It’s an impressive event,” Jorgensen said. “I saw the meat hanging outside the tent. Frankly I can hardly wait to eat the food.”
To whet the appetite of the bidders, Mallmann, a renown Argentine chef, prepared two treats: an empanada of beef, tomato and cheese and an eggplant and goat cheese panini. Mallmann urged the bidders to be generous.
“I feel like we are romantic, passionate soldiers of wine and food,” he said.
The white tent was minimalist in decor, except for what mattered most: air conditioning. It cooled the 83-degree weather outside to a comfortable 70 degrees inside, with a breeze that made the occasional burst of red confetti flutter.
Eleanor Coppola, left, wife of Francis Ford Coppola, greets honorary auction chair Augustin Francisco Huneeus, right, of Quintessa Winery during Auction Napa Valley, 2016. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
The top single lot of the day, the Staglin Family Vineyard’s Africa-themed offering, initially sold for $700,000, and then it was expanded from two couples to three, boosting the sale to $1.05 million.
The lot included an all-expenses paid trip for six, an in-depth master class on South African wines and a boat trip with a guided tour of the Robben Island cell where Mandela spent all but nine of his 27 years in captivity.
Amuse Bouche and Tusk Estate, both Napa-based wineries, offered another hot lot that sold for $520,000 and included a Golden State Warriors 2015 NBA championship ring, team jerseys and a 6-liter commemorative red blend. Model and actress Kate Upton sweetened the deal, when she offered to go to the game with the winning bidders, boosting the sale to $1.04 million.
The most sentimental lot was Fund-A-Need, which reeled in $2.1 million. It’s dedicated to funding early intervention to support troubled children.
For more highlights from 2016 Auction Napa Valley, browse the gallery below.Photography by Alvin Jornada.
Chef Francis Mallmann addresses the audience during Auction Napa Valley, 2016. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
Eugene and Harriet Becker of Long Island, New York, dance to live music during Auction Napa Valley, 2016. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
In wine-centric Sonoma County, the water cooler talk is less about the weather and more about the exciting bottle of wine we just tasted. Even those of us who have plenty of disposable income love to find wines that over deliver for the price. It’s human nature to love a steal. Here are six tasty wines to spice up your water cooler talk.
Dry Creek Vineyard, 2014 Heritage Vines Sonoma County Zinfandel, 14.5%, $22. Aromas and flavors of blackberry, plum and cracked black pepper. Finishes spicy. Great backbone (structure). Top rate.
Novy, 2014 Santa Lucia Highlands Syrah, 14.5%, $19. This is a concentrated syrah weighted to black fruit and it has just the right dose of cracked black pepper. It’s a syrah with broad appeal – a seamless version with less grit.
Layer Cake, 2013 California Cabernet Sauvignon, 13.75%, $15. This cabernet is a great deal for those who want a fruit-forward quaff. Tasty black fruit, lively black pepper spice and a lingering finish. A steal.
Insurrection, 2014 South Eastern Australia, 15%, $17. An edgy red blend with that’s approachable. Bright red fruit, snappy spice. Easy drinking. A great quaff.
Mirassou, 2014 California Cabernet Sauvignon, 13.6%, $12. A cab with aromas and flavors of blackberry, currant and vanilla. It finishes with a hint of caramel. The concentrated flavors are a surprise at this price point.
River Road, 2014 Russian River Valley, Sonoma County Pinot Noir, 13.7%, $19. This is a lovely, layered pinot. What makes it a standout is its upfront cherry fruit, while notes of plum, herbs and spice play back up. Well crafted.
Bird and The Bottle, a new Stark Reality Restaurant in Santa Rosa, CA. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
Looking for some inspiration for your next dining out experience? Here are spoon-size portions of Sonoma County restaurant reviews by Jeff Cox (JC) and Carey Sweet (CS), accompanied by the date they originally ran in The Press Democrat.
Price Guide
$ Entrees under $12
$$ Entrees $12 to $17
$$$ Entrees $17 to $24
$$$$ Entrees $24 and up
Butterscotch Pot de Creme from Oso Sonoma on the square. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
COTATI
Tiny Thai Restaurant
This humble place doesn’t scrimp on portions or preparation. The vegetarian fresh rolls come with a great peanut sauce. The usual Thai favorites such as pad Thai, green papaya salad and tom yum soup, street foods including Thai basil, and house-made curries are all here. No beer or wine, but there’s always Thai iced tea.
The Butcher’s Board served at Central Market in Petaluma. (Crista Jeremiason / The Press Democrat)
PETALUMA
Central Market
This is a genuine farm-to-table restaurant, as chef Tony Najiola raises pigs, hens and vegetables for the restaurant on his organic farm not far from town. Those pigs become some of the best charcuterie around, and the vegetables are snapping fresh and respected by the cooks. While the menu is local, the wine list is global in scope. Everything is made from scratch daily, even the breads.
Falafel Plate served at King Falafel in Sebastopol. (Crista Jeremiason / The Press Democrat)
SEBASTOPOL
King Falafel
What the taqueria is to California and the Indian restaurant is to England, the falafel shop is to the Middle East. You can taste the authenticity at King Falafel, where ground chickpeas are flavored with herbs and Indian spices and deepfried. But don’t miss the gyro sandwiches, or the lebni sandwich, or the Ultimate Kabob Plate with beef and chicken kabobs paired with tzatziki sauce, hummus, dolmas and more. Baklava awaits you at the end of your meal.
100 Brown St., Sebastopol, 707-824-4800, kingfalafelusa.com. $
(Reviewed 4/5/15, JC)
Marigold Indian Bistro
Chef Uddab Timilsina makes Indian cuisine exciting, not just because he’s mastered the art of combining spices in intriguing ways, but also because his dishes are made with top-quality ingredients, which gives them the added appeal of freshness and purity of flavor. Along with the usual Indian dishes, he occasionally ventures into less charted territory. The lamb and apricot combination, for instance, is wonderful.
Ramen Gaijin
It’s closed Sunday through Tuesday, so you only have four days to catch the artistry of the two chefs as they innovate their way past traditional American Japanese restaurant fare and think creatively about simple things like rice bowls and ramen bowls. The donburi rice bowl is chockablock with stuff the Japanese like over there, while any of the three ramen bowls will satisfy. There’s whiskey to be had, along with beer and sake.
Cured scallops with grapes, radish, lime and Calabrian chiles at Hazel in Occidental. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
OCCIDENTAL
Hazel
Don’t be fooled by the small, nondescript building in the heart of Occidental that is Hazel. It’s full of life and great Mediterraneanstyle food. Two wood-fire ovens turn out six kinds of pizza, the starters (especially the cured scallops and grilled pita plates) are superb, and the service is friendly. Chef-owners Jim and Michele Wimborough are transplants from top restaurants in San Francisco and bring considerable culinary expertise to the west county.
The main dining room at Underwood Bar and Bistro in Graton. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)
GRATON
Underwood Bar & Bistro
Underwood is the beating heart of the west county social and culinary scene. The entrees are expensive, but tapas and small plates are available. Or hop across Graton Road to proprietor Matthew Greenbaum’s other restaurant, Willow Wood Market Café, where prices are moderate. You’ll be pleased at the quality of the food at Underwood, however. Chef Mark Miller piles miles of flavor on high-quality ingredients. The wine list is eclectic, the bar offers specialty cocktails, and there’s much fun to be had.
Bird and The Bottle, a new Stark Reality Restaurant in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
SANTA ROSA
Belly Left Coast Kitchen & Taproom
Choose from 26 beers and ciders on tap and 23 more by the bottle as you enjoy Gray Rollin’s spicy, intensely flavored noshes at this excellent hang-out spot. Don’t miss the superb kalua pork tacos, loaded with mounds of smoky pulled pork. Eat healthy with garden-fresh salads, rosemary and kale fingerling potatoes, and grilled artichokes. Also try the Carolina-style ribs, burgers and pizzas, prepared by a kitchen that brings the heat.
Bird & the Bottle
Restaurant maven Mark Stark has another winner on his hands, with this curious-sounding but delicious mix of Asian, American South, East Coast and Jewish comfort food. Set over two floors, it’s a mix of hip lounge and chic dining rooms, and the menu holds plenty of surprises such as pickled shrimp with Saltines and Korean chile butter, and a chicken liver schmear with pickled shallots, maple, cracklings and smoked salt. Fried chicken is excellent, atop bean sprout-black-eyed pea slaw.
Guests are seated for dinner at Bistro 29 in Santa Rosa. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
Bistro 29
You need to search out this intimate, tucked-away French cafe, but your hunt is well worth it, delivering Michelin Bib Gourmand-caliber Breton regional cuisine. Chef-owner Brian Anderson consistently wows with signatures such as onion-cider soup capped in Gruyère with buckwheat crêpe dentelle, an inventive take on escargots Bordelaise served with a marrow bone, and slow-braised duck confit cassoulet. The $29 prix fixe is a great value, too.
Brasserie Restaurant at the Hyatt Vineyard Creek Hotel & Spa
The kitchen turns out some excellent dishes, including small plates and appetizers such as mini ravioli and Humboldt Fog tomato galette, and main plates that include a near-perfect flatiron steak and herb-roasted chicken. The menu allows diners to select a small or large portion of meat or seafood, choose one of six sauces, and add two side dishes of their choice.
John Ash & Co.
The premier Santa Rosa spot for deluxe dining and drinking in pampered surroundings continues to please. Chef Tom Schmidt’s food covers everyone’s favorite basics — chicken breast cordon bleu, steak, sea bass and so on — but in a way that they wow you. Besides the restaurant, you can grab a bite and a drink in The Front Room lounge. The wine list is a veritable tour of Sonoma’s wine industry.
A Red Dragon Roll and a Sapporo beer at O! Sushi in Santa Rosa. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
O! Sushi
Chef and owner Billy Chong is from South Korea, but he gets to the soul of Japanese cuisine at his modest sushi restaurant. He’s got eight pages of wittily-named sushi rolls on the menu, plus interesting appetizers, specials and nigiri sushi. The fish is fresh and dinner starts with complimentary miso soup and iceberg lettuce salad. The decor is nonexistent, but the food is good.
The Spinster Sisters
This is the gem of South A Street’s arty little enclave. It’s at once a meeting place, fabulous wine bar and fine restaurant, and it’s open into the night. Chef Liza Hinman is some sort of magician, coaxing excellence out of familiar ingredients. She claims her cuisine is modern American, but the world’s culinary influences are all over the menu, from Tunisian meatballs to French pork terrine. Looking for a great weekend brunch? Try this place.
401 S. A St., Santa Rosa, 707-528-7100, thespinstersisters.com. $$
(Reviewed 4/12/15, JC)
Lamb Kebab from Yeti Restaurant in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
The Pullman Kitchen
Executive chef Darren McRonald and chef John Trunk have worked at some of the nation’s finest restaurants, and it shows in the execution of the dishes at their venue in Santa Rosa’s Railroad Square district. The menu is full of familiar items such as fish tacos, roast chicken, cheeseburgers, meatballs and so on, but they are all just about perfect versions, including scrumptious desserts. There are unsuspected surprises as well.
Yeti Restaurant
Narayan Somname’s Yeti Restaurant in Glen Ellen has been a favorite place there for years, and now the Nepalese owner and chef has opened a more opulent version in Santa Rosa, in the shell of a former Lyons. There’s house-brewed beer, cocktails and a good wine list, and the food is three-star Nepalese and Indian cooking. Don’t miss the momo and tandoor specialties. There’s lots to love, especially for lunch. R
The indoor bar at Bravas Bar de Tapas, in Healdsburg. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)
HEALDSBURG
Bravas Bar de Tapas
This popular spot has indoor seating and outdoor dining in the restaurant’s backyard, where a bar has been built. The menu features a wide variety of authentic Spanish tapas (snacks), some cold, some hot, some liquid, some not. There’s paella for two or four people, and a wine list with lots of Spanish selections, including 13 Sherries. It’s a friendly, relaxing atmosphere for nibbling good food and drinking good wine with friends.
420 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-433-7700, starkrestaurants.com. $$-$$$
(Reviewed 3/22/15, JC)
Dry Creek Kitchen
The cooking is international-Californian, meaning lots of fresh local ingredients handled with sophistication, such as scallops en croute with a black truffle sauce, and house-smoked Liberty duck breast with a confit of duck leg meat and pork belly joining it on the plate. The pastry chef does excellent work with intricate delicacies. There’s a list of more than 500 wines, all from Sonoma County, and there is no corkage fee if you bring a Sonoma wine of your own. All this glamour is not inexpensive, so be prepared.
Ahi Tataki with wakami seaweed salad, pureed kim chi, soy-seaweed emulsion and dried sesame seed powder by chef Dustin Valette at Valette Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
KINSmoke
Barbecue is king at this bistro specializing in wood-smoked ribs, pork, brisket and chicken, and fancier fare such as coffee-rubbed grilled porterhouse and Cajun-dusted scallops. Five homemade sauces are superb, and be sure to get the delicious frickles (fried pickles) to go with the craft beers and wines.
304 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-473-8440, kinsmoke.com. $$-$$$
(Reviewed 12/30/15, CS)
Valette
Chef Dustin Valette and brother Aaron Garzini are from Geyserville, and they operate a restaurant that could be a superstar on any culinary stage in the country. Valette was chef at Dry Creek Kitchen for years, and his skills are honed, and then some. He turns the artisanal bounty of local farms, orchards and wineries into creative and intriguing dishes that seldom miss. Desserts and housemade charcuterie are exceptional.
344 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-473-0946, valettehealdsburg.com. $$$$
(Reviewed 7/19/15, JC)
Chick Kabob at Himalayan Restaurant of Windsor. (Kent Porter / Press Democrat)
WINDSOR
Himalayan Restaurant
The food is a combination of Nepalese and northeast Indian cuisines. The ingredients are good quality, with tender lamb and juicy chicken in the curries, tandoori specials, kabobs and nightly special entrees. The patio is a pleasant spot for lunch or dinner when the weather cooperates. For light meals, soups and salads are on the menu, and if you’re hungry, the entrees tend to be generously proportioned.
A housemade strawberry popsicle at The Kenwood Restaurant. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
KENWOOD
Kenwood Restaurant
Seafood is the star of this Sonoma Valley staple, now owned by William Foss and headed in the kitchen by Douglas Bernstein. The flavors and textures of the fish dishes are superb. Since the original Kenwood opened in 1987, the heart and soul has been at the bar, and it’s still welcoming, trimmed in faux brick and a fireplace. Here’s where to go for reliable, if pricey, satisfiers including the half-pound grassfed burger and first-rate crispy fries. The dining room is warm and nicely quiet.
The Special Pizza with house-made fennel sausage from the fig café in Glen Ellen. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
GLEN ELLEN
Aventine Glen Ellen
It’s a charming setting in a 170-year-old grist mill brought up to date and surrounded by decking shaded by ancient trees along a year-round creek. The food is Italian aimed at the American palate, with excellent lasagne, wood-fire pizzas and grilled salmon and lamb dishes. A full bar and broad wine list make this place perfect for relaxing after a hard day’s wine tasting.
Glen Ellen Star
It looks like a funky frame shack, but the big star on the front of the building suggests just how good chef Ari Weiswasser’s food can be. And that’s very good indeed. The wood-fire oven is central to his cooking, and while the dishes seem, at first glance at the menu, to be standard fare, they have surprising flourishes, hidden flavors and are of high quality. The wine list is a trove of little-known treasures.
13648 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen, 707-343-1384, glenellenstar.com. $$$
(Reviewed 4/19/15, JC)
The Fig Café
After a recent makeover, this restaurant has roared back with really good, well-prepared comfort dishes such as pot roast, trout, steak and fries, and some of the best pizza in the North Bay. There’s no corkage fee if you bring your own wine. Seating is first come, first served. The wine list is limited to Rhone varietals. There’s also a daily plats du jour, with a starter, entree and dessert for $36.
13690 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen, 707-938-2130, thefigcafe.com. $$-$$$
(Reviewed 3/1/15, JC)
Turkish Vegetable and Bread Soup with Caraway and Local Olive Oil served at Harvest Moon Cafe in downtown Sonoma.
SONOMA
Carneros Bistro & Wine Bar
The most impressive aspect of this restaurant is its eclectic, 400-bottle wine list, with selections not only from this region, but from fine wine areas around the world. The kitchen keeps up with an international version of California cuisine. Ahi tartare, salmon pastrami, Berkshire pork cooked for two days, organic chicken and great desserts are all paired with wines and beers on the menu.
Cochon Volant BBQ Smoke House
Longtime barbecue master Rob Larman has transformed his mobile ’cue trailer into a brick-and-mortar, with the same delicious almond smoked meats including beef ribs and pork shoulder. The casual spot has upscale touches, too, such as Sonoma-style sauces, boutique beer and wine.
Harvest Moon Cafe
The food at Nick and Jen Demarest’s cafe is innovative and always palate-pleasing — not an easy trick to pull off. The menu changes often, sometimes daily, although the rib-eye steak is a constant. Many ingredients are house-made, including the sausage for the chorizo sauté, and the marshmallow fluff for the s’mores. There’s alfresco dining on a patio out back and an excellent wine list. $$$
Chocolate Fetish served at LaSalette Restaurant in Sonoma. (Crista Jeremiason / The Press Democrat)
LaSalette
Chef Manuel Azevedo honors his Portuguese heritage by preparing classic and some innovative dishes in the Portuguese style, which means lots of flavor, spicy sausages, fruits de mer and respect for his Azores heritage. And he does it well. Dishes are perfectly cooked, many in the wood-burning oven. The wine list is loaded with Portuguese treasures and the service is snappy. It’s a real treat to dine here.
452 First St. E., Suite H, Sonoma, 707-938-1927, lasaletterestaurant.com. $$$
(Reviewed 9/7/14, JC)
OSO
David Bush is a talented chef who creates elaborate plates of food that might better be handled with some restraint. But his eclectic menu is invariably well prepared, with the emphasis on raw seafood and slow-cooked meats. The wine list is a major feature, filled with interesting selections. There’s a prix fixe dinner and wine pairing menu, too.
The pulled pork sandwich at Rossi’s in Sonoma. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Rossi’s 1906
The former Little Switzerland and its polka bands have been transformed into a Southern-style roadhouse with wood-smoked ribs, tri-tip, pork, chicken and shrimp, and live music Thursdays through Sundays starting at 5 p.m. The good barbecue is accompanied by the usuals: fries, mac and cheese, hushpuppies and great onion rings. More than half of the 26 beers available are on tap. This is a fun place with good eats.
401 Grove St., El Verano, 707-343-0044, rossis1906.com $$
(Reviewed 1/4/15, JC)
Shiso Modern Asian Kitchen
Chef Ed Metcalfe cherry-picks items from various Asian cuisines, but with a special emphasis on Japanese dishes. His ingredients are wonderfully fresh and the vegetables are sourced from his own garden. There’s a well filled out list of sakes along with beer and wine. His chirashi (chef’s choice) may be the best way to go. It’s a unique restaurant with this chef’s scrumptious take on Asian food.
The Hamashi Crudo with a parsley and radish salsa, horseradish, lemon juice, olive oil and sprouted watercress at Terrapin Creek. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
BODEGA BAY
Terrapin Creek
Terrapin Creek is among the crown jewels of Sonoma County restaurants. Owners Liya Lin and Andrew Truong aim for perfection and mostly achieve it. Their cooking is modern American food with international nods, and their execution has earned them a Michelin star. Set on a hill above the Bodega Bay marina, the place is a sanctuary of comfort and good vibes. The wine list is terrific.
Ninebark at 813 Main Street in Napa. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
NAPA
Ninebark
With two-Michelin-stars chef Matthew Lightner in the kitchen, the cheeseburger is as excellent as the menu’s fanciest smoked duck. Spanning three stories, each level offers a different dining experience from bar to dining room, but all showcase pristine ingredients like heirloom vegetables with inventive recipes, seasoning, and stunning presentation.
813 Main St., Napa, 707226-7821, ninebark-napa.com. $$$$
(Reviewed 01/10/16, CS)
Milk punch at County Bench in Santa Rosa on 6/6/16. Heather irwin/PD
CLOSED
Just a quick hit on this brand new downtown Santa Rosa restaurant before I do a deeper dive in the coming weeks, butThe County Bench seems to be an out-of-the-gate hit. Michelin-starred chef Bruce Frieseke (Applewood, Bella Vineyards) and Ben Davies (Petite Syrah, Spoonbar, Mirepoix) are flexing their culinary muscles with seemingly simple dishes that are anything but.
Popcorn + corn at County Bench in Santa Rosa, Ca on 6/1/16. Heather Irwin/PD
Popcorn+corn ($4) is popcorn with freeze dried powdered corn and chili sprinkled on top that’s so addictive you’ll want one to take home. Deviled eggs get upstaged by Deviled Brussels sprouts ($4), and sizzling side dish of cauliflower, brown butter and oxtail ($8) stole the show. Desserts are stunners, and the wine list is an ambitious 10-plus pages.
Deviled brussels sprouts at The County Bench in Santa Rosa, CA. Heather Irwin/PD
Craft cocktails are having a spring resurgence, and their NYC cocktail wrangler knows his way around the bar with insanely complicated sippers like a clarified Milk Punch ($13) with jasmine tea, arrack (a rare spirit from Southeast Asia) and gin along with simpler classic cocktails. We’re stoked to see a restaurant this cosmopolitan on Fourth St. , and hope its a sign of more great things to come.
Chili chicken drumsticks at County Bench in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD
Keep in mind, this isn’t a stuffed shirt spot (though its pretty swank for dinner), and is serving both lunch and brunch on the weekend.
Milk punch at County Bench in Santa Rosa on 6/6/16. Heather irwin/PD
The County Bench: Lunch Monday through Friday from 11:30a.m. to 2p.m., dinner from 5p.m. daily, Brunch 10a.m. to 2p.m. Saturday and Sunday and happy hour Monday through Friday from 4-6p.m. 535 Fourth St., Santa Rosa.
Dessert of Sour creme mousse, chocolate crispies, ganache at The County Bench in Santa Rosa, 6/1/16. Heather Irwin, PD
Although vaguely familiar with the Vietnamese staples of Pho and the Bahn Mi sandwich, prior to visiting Petaluma’s Simmer Vietnamese Kitchen, I had little other experience with Vietnamese cuisine. At first glance, it appears similar to Chinese food, but take one bite and it becomes evident that although influenced by neighboring countries, Vietnamese food is unique in its own right.
Brothers Nhat and Sonny Le opened Simmer in 2013 and have been receiving rave reviews ever since. But having been unimpressed with past Vietnamese restaurant experiences in Sonoma County, visiting yet another strip mall restaurant was not high on my list.
That all changed after speaking with Amber Driscoll, co-owner of Petaluma’s Speakeasy, The Big Easy and the Opera House Gallery. Although a vegetarian herself, Driscoll’s own menu is balanced with both delicious meat and vegetarian dishes, all of which I enjoy on a regular basis. When Driscoll told me that even I, a through-and-through carnivore, would like Simmer’s vegetarian selections, I knew it was time to give them a try.
I arrived on a Saturday afternoon for an early dinner, food crew in tow, including our resident vegetarian. We immediately noticed that Nhat and Sonny had transformed what used to be a dark dining space at 299 North McDowell Blvd., into something open and airy.
“The first thing we did was remove all the window coverings in order to let the light in,” said Nhat Le. Exposing patrons to a view of a strip mall parking lot might seem counterintuitive, but having dined in this location before, I can attest that the difference is like night and day, literally.
Simmer’s small plates menu includes sweet and sour crispy chicken, left, and spring rolls with peanut dipping sauce. (Houston Porter / The Argus – Courier)
We started our order with one of everything on the “small plates” menu because these items appeared to represent a great cross-section of flavors and textures. These included Simmer spring rolls ($6), egg rolls ($7), sweet and sour crispy chicken ($8), salt and pepper prawns ($11), crispy fried tofu ($6), pot stickers ($6) and beef onion wraps ($8).
At first glance, this looks like an order at a Chinese restaurant, but one bite of each and we knew something was quite different.
All were delicious, but the pot stickers were the perfect example of how Vietnamese dishes are more delicately created than their “heavier” Chinese counterparts. These were light and free of grease, while still delivering the memorably bold flavors we expect from a pot sticker.
The beef onion wraps were a huge surprise as I usually dislike all but macerate, caramelized or pickled onions. These wraps look simple enough, but the flavor and texture combo were close to perfection. We loved all the dishes we tried, but these alone are enough to get us to revisit Simmer again and again.
The pho, a Vietnamese staple, and shaking beef rice plate are both excellent. (Houston Porter / The Argus – Courier)
For our main dishes, we ordered pho ($10-$11.50), shaking beef rice plate ($18) and the incredibly popular lemongrass crispy tofu with vermicelli ($10).
Pho (pronounced “fuh”) is a noodle soup consisting of broth, thin vermicelli rice noodles, herbs and veggies, and usually some sort of protein, like chicken or steak. Simmer’s pho comes with a side of onions, scallions, cilantro, bean sprouts, basil, jalapenos and lime, so diners can complement the already flavorful broth as they wish. Simmer’s large pho can easily be shared by two people.
The shaking beef is one of the more expensive dishes on the menu, but is worth every penny. Made with cubed filet mignon, it is as tender and flavorful as any filet I have had in a long time.
The crispy fried tofu at Simmer is served with a sweet and spicy chili sauce. (Houston Porter / The Argus – Courier)
But just as Driscoll had warned me, the pièce de résistance really is Simmer’s lemongrass crispy tofu with vermicelli. I cannot say I would pass up the beef onion wraps or shaking beef if dining at Simmer alone, but the lemongrass crispy tofu will likely guarantee I will always bring at least one friend with me whenever visiting Simmer in the future.
A huge portion of Simmer’s menu is not only gluten free, but is available in a vegetarian option.
“We listen to our guests and try to accommodate different dietary restrictions whenever we can,” said Sonny Le. “We get a lot of compliments on our veggie broth, which we created and perfected in-house.”
Many fall prey to the fallacy that all Asian food is simply a variation on Chinese recipes. However, there are significant differences, especially when it comes to Vietnamese cuisine.
Traditional Vietnamese food is well-respected for its fresh ingredients, avoidance of heavy oils, use of herbs and vegetables for flavoring, and its complementary textures. It is no wonder that Vietnamese cuisine is some of the healthiest food on the planet, and certainly some of the most delicious.
One bite of Simmer’s food and it is clear the Le brothers are focused on offering affordable dining options chalked full of high quality ingredients and diverse flavor combinations.
An update on the whirlwind of Santa Rosa restaurant openings and closings in the Brickyard block.
Brasa, the Brasilian churrascaria on the corner of Mendocino and Seventh Street in Santa Rosa, abruptly closed a couple weeks ago, leaving folks curious about the yet-again-empty 505 building.
There has been no response from the owners, aside from an email sent to people trying to make a reservation saying, “Sorry to inform you, but Brasa has closed and is currently looking for new location. Our sincere apologies.”
Shuffles Magical Ice Cream has moved from its cavernous Seventh Street location to Railroad Square, at 123 Fourth St. We’ve heard from a friend with a youngster that the kids’ parties and magic shows are all the rage with the toddler set, and the ice cream continues to be solid at the new location.
Moving into the Shuffles location is Best of Burma, a Burmese restaurant that’s well under construction already. The restaurant has another location in San Mateo. (OMG are we really getting Burmese? Agggghhhrrrrrrr, excited!) If you’re not familiar with Burmese food (Burma is actually known as Myanmar), it incorporates the flavors and traditions of many cultures and regions ranging from China and Thailand to India and Pacific Islands. With lots of fresh ingredients, salads and seafood, it’s a welcome addition to our lineup of ethnic cuisines in the North Bay.
La Perla Peruvian restaurant has changed its named to Panka Peru Cocina Peruana, with a simplified menu that’s more in line with weekday lunchers in both price and offerings, keeping their amazing ceviche and lomo saltado and losing some of the more expensive and complex dishes.
Finally, a Mexican restaurant is under construction at the former BBQ Spot. We saw a gentleman with a Mi Burrito shirt heading inside, but so far no exact word on the owners (and no ABC license yet).
We’d be remiss not to mention the other remaining restaurants, Haku Sushi (which seems to be gaining some steam) and the newly reopened Kafal (formerly Ganesh), which has been serving some solid and affordable $8.99 lunch specials. Sprenger’s Tap Room continues to bring massive crowds to the long-suffering block between Mendocino and B streets.
When you arrive at Kenwood Inn and Spa you feel the blissful freedom of having just checked your baggage at the airport. But this time it’s your mental baggage you are free of — and with no extra weight charge.
Situated just off the main vein of Sonoma Valley’s Hwy 12, the quaint Italianate Kenwood Inn & Spa [KIS] blends into the countryside corridor seamlessly as if it’s been there for centuries. Upon entering the inn, you do immediately feel as though you’ve stepped back in time to a place of enchantment steeped in tranquility, serenity and solace.
The alcove exudes charm and eloquence from the moment the concierge offers a complimentary glass of Prosecco. A slow blink, a long exhale, a big swish of bubbly and you say to yourself, “ah, I’m home.”
You then discover the fruit tree-flanked center courtyard planted with avocado, fig, pomegranate and lemon, along with grapevine varietals such as cabernet, chardonnay, zinfandel and merlot.
At KIS you experience luxury at its finest without the Napa Valley pretense. Although it is not formally a bed and breakfast, by first day’s end, you’ll be on a first name basis with all the guests and the staff at the 29 room, 2 acre property.
No request is considered unreasonable here. “Once I was working the night shift and a guest wanted hot lemon water in the middle of the night,” room manager Don Hamilton said. “Because the kitchen is closed at 2:30 a.m., I picked a lemon from a nearby tree for her room service order. She was delighted.”
At this Sonoma Valley inn, each day begins with a complimentary full breakfast by the central fountain, flanked with wild flowers and pops of red. Guests can enjoy daily specials like Kenwood Inn Signature Eggs Benedict; a poached egg, grilled portobello mushroom, spinach with hint of tomato infused hollandaise sauce or an Italian Frittata filled with asparagus, red pepper and parmesan cheese.
Dinner is served nightly from the resort’s private restaurant for an added fee. The resort’s coveted cuisine features local wine country ingredients. The menu can be found online at www.kenwoodinn.com.
KIS boasts a well-rounded array of wines from around the world and highlights about a dozen local wines like Papapietro Perry Pinot and Turley Zinfandel. Nearby wineries include, St. Francis, Chateau St. Jean, Landmark, and VJB Winery.
For artisan beer lovers, the inn showcases local craft beers such as Lagunitas Brewery and Anderson Valley Brewing Company. Daily wine & beer service begins at 2 p.m. and ends at midnight.
Kenwood Inn and Spa
10400 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, CA 95452
Reservations: 800.353.6966
Looking for something fun to do this weekend? We have a few ideas. This Friday starts the 3-day Country Summer music festival at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds. Friday is also the start of the Healdsburg Jazz Festival. Saturday, watch or partake in the action at the Great Russian River Race in Guerneville. And on Sunday is the Railroad Square Music Festival. All this and more is in our life of things to do.
FRIDAY, June 3
Country Summer: Join country fans from all over for this year’s Country Summer music festival at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds in Santa Rosa. Headlining the festival is Lady Antebellum on Friday, The Band Perry on Saturday and Billy Currington on Sunday. Gates open each day at noon, with music starting at 1:30 p.m. Tickets are $79 per day, or $209 for all three days. Reserved seating prices are also available. Find out more at countrysummer.com. (June 3 -5)
Healdsburg Jazz Festival: The ten-day festival opens with Julian Lage Trio, 7 and 9 p.m. this Friday at Healdsburg SHED. This show is sold out, but there are still a few tickets left for a few of the other shows through June 12. 433-4633, healdsburgjazzfestival.org.
The Bohemian Highway: Americana and pop songs at inaugural ‘Local Talent Friday,’ 7-9 tonight, Occidental Center for the Arts. $10. 874-9392, occidentalcenterforthearts.org.
Tony Redhouse: Native American multimedia concert with music, drumming and dance in full regalia, 7:30 tonight, Petaluma Museum. $10. 778-4398, petalumamuseum.com.
Yarn: Original Americana music, ‘Friday Night Live’ summer concert series opener, 7 tonight, Cloverdale Plaza. Free. 894-4410, cloverdaleartsalliance.org.
Pulsators: Rhythm and blues, rock ’n’ roll and reggae at ‘Funky Fridays,’ 7 tonight, Hood Mansion, Santa Rosa. $10, $10 parking. 833-6288, funkyfridays.info.
Families race to their kayaks for the start of the double kayak division of The Great Russian River Race at Rio Lindo Beach. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
SATURDAY, June 4
Great Russian River Race: The postponed race is back on this Saturday from noon to 4 p.m. at Johnson’s Beach in Guerneville. Along with the races, there will be live music and food trucks, and plenty of opportunity for fun in the sun. Find out all the details at greatrussianriverrace.com.
Star Party: Head over to the Robert Ferguson Observatory in Sugarloaf this Saturday to get an up close view of the stars. Starting at 8 pm., all three of the observatory’s main telescopes will be open for viewing, along with additional other telescopes. Admission is $3 for 18-plus, free for kids. Parking is $8. Find out all the details at rfo.org.
‘Sculpture Trail’: Artists’ reception with music and videos of sculptors at work, 5-7 p.m. Saturday, Cloverdale Performing Arts Center. Free. 894-4410, cloverdaleartsalliance.org.
Lily Tomlin: An evening with the comedienne’s timeless characters, 8 p.m. Saturday, Luther Burbank Center, Santa Rosa. Sold out. 546-3600, lutherburbankcenter.org.
Caravanserai: Santana tribute band featuring Tony Lindsay, ‘Rockin’ Concerts’ series, noon-3 p.m. Saturday, Village Court, Montgomery Village, Santa Rosa. Free. 545-3844, mvshops.com.
Arann Harris: Americana and soul, plus openers Hillstomp and Sean Hayes, 8 p.m. Saturday, Mystic Theatre, Petaluma. $14-$16. 765-2121, mystictheatre.com.
Petaluma hosts Day on the River on Sunday.
SUNDAY, June 5
Railroad Square Music Festival: This Sunday, Railroad Square presents a free day of music, from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. The event will shine a spotlight on the local music scene, with performances by favorite North Bay bands including John Courage, Dixie Giants, The Bootleg Honeys and more. While there, enjoy the bounty of the West End Farmers Market, Santa Rosa’s Shop Party and a pop-up art gallery by Free Art Friday SR artists. Circus Maximus will also bring lots of family fun. Find out all the details at railroadsquaremusicfestival.com.
Day on the River: Round out your weekend on Sunday with a day on the Petaluma River. For $10, you can rent a number of small water crafts and peruse the town’s river. Always wanted to try a stand up paddle board? How about a pedal boat or a hydrobike? Sunday is your chance to try something new. Find out more at petalumasmallcraftcenter.org.
Bennett Valley Grange Picnic: In its 144th continuous year, the oldest active Grange in the United States invites you to take part in their annual picnic, noon to 4 p.m. this Sunday. This year’s traditional features include the Cherry Pit Spitting Contest, farm animals, a silent auction and more. Live music will be performed by the Jami Jamison Band. And the meal is BBQ chicken, homemade desserts, beer and wine for purchase and more. Meal tickets are $15 for adults and $10 for kids 11-16. Under 11 are free with paying adult. Find out all the details at bvgrange.org.
The Disorderly House Band: Americana/folk rock, ‘Music on the Lawn’ summer music series opener, 2:30-4:30 p.m. Sunday, St. Francis Winery, Santa Rosa. Free. 538-9463, stfranciswinery.com.
The Peelers: Cover band, music from the ’70s to today, summer music series opener, noon-3 p.m. Sunday, Chateau St. Jean Winery, Kenwood. $30-$40. 257-5784, chateaustjean.com.
Wine Country Quilt Show: Quilting exhibit with vendors and boutique, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Sunday, Santa Rosa Veterans Memorial Building. $10. mqsc.org.
Beatles Flashback: ‘Terrace Concert’ series, 1-4 p.m. Sunday, Village Terrace, Montgomery Village, Santa Rosa. Free. 545-3844, mvshops.com.
A Peek at Next Week…
All-American cars, live music, food and vendors at Peggy Sue’s Car Show on Saturday, June 11 in Santa Rosa.
MONDAY, June 6
Summer classes: Art, science and LEGO classes on Monday open summertime series offered through Aug. 12, Schulz Museum, Santa Rosa. Various times, fees. 284-1272, schulzmuseum.org.
TUESDAY, June 7
Grupo Falso Baiano: Brazilian, choro, jazz and samba, ‘Tuesdays in the Plaza,’ 6-8 p.m. Tuesday, Healdsburg Plaza. Free. 431-3301, ci.healdsburg.ca.us.
Guitar exhibit: ‘Medieval to Metal: The Art and Evolution of the Guitar,’ 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Tuesday, History Museum of Sonoma County, Santa Rosa. $7-$10. 579-1500, sonomacountymuseum.org.
WEDNESDAY, June 8
Afroman: Rap music with ‘Because I Got High’ Grammy nominee, 8 p.m. Wednesday, Phoenix Theater, Petaluma. $20. 762-3565, thephoenixtheater.com.
THURSDAY, June 9
SuperHuey: Huey Lewis and the News tribute band, ‘Summer Nights on the Green’ concert season opener, 6-8 p.m. Thursday, Windsor Town Green. Free. 838-1260, townofwindsor.com.
Soft White Sixties: Rock and pop, plus blues with Adia Victoria, ‘Krush Backyard Concert Series,’ 6 p.m. Thursday, KRSH radio, Santa Rosa. Free. krsh.com.
FRIDAY, June 10
Huichica Music Festival: Seven diverse bands, food and wine, 3-11 p.m. June 10, Old Redwood Barn, Gundlach Bundschu Winery, Sonoma. $40. huichica.com.
Emma Straub: ‘Modern Lovers’ author, 7 p.m. June 10, Copperfield’s Books, Petaluma. Free. 762-0563, copperfieldsbooks.com.
Zigaboo Modeliste: King of the funky drums and the New Aahkesstra, ‘Friday Night Live,’ 7 p.m. June 10, Cloverdale Plaza. 894-4410, cloverdaleartsalliance.org.
Hour of Tower: Tower of Power tribute band, 7 p.m. June 10, ‘Funky Fridays’ outdoor concert series, Hood Mansion, Santa Rosa. $10, $10 parking. 833-6288, funkyfridays.info.
Brian Culbertson’s Napa Valley Jazz Getaway: ‘Friday Night Funk Night,’ 7:30 p.m. June 10, Napa Valley Performing Arts Center, Yountville. $149. 944-9900, lincolntheater.com.
‘The Magic Flute’: Opening night of Mozart’s opera with laughter, romance and adventure, 8 p.m. June 10, Cinnabar Theater, Petaluma. $9-$40. 763-8920, cinnabartheater.org.
SATURDAY, June 11
Peggy Sue’s Car Show & Cruise: All-American cars, live music, food and vendors, 8 a.m.-4 p.m. June 11, Sonoma Mountain Village, Rohnert Park. $5. 703-9616, cruiseforpeggysue.com.
‘Beerfest – The Good One’: Face to Face benefit with 60-plus craft breweries, plus food, noon-5 p.m. June 11, Luther Burbank Center, Santa Rosa. $50. 544-1581, beerfestthegoodone.com.
Jackie Greene: Singer-songwriter plus Nicki Bluhm & The Gramblers, 8 p.m. June 11, Mystic Theatre, Petaluma. $50-$60. 765-2121, mystictheatre.com.
Stacy Jones: Blues musician with mild Americana and subtle country, 8:45 p.m. June 11, HopMonk Tavern, Sebastopol. $10. 829-7300, hopmonk-sebastopol.ticketfly.com.
SUNDAY, June 12
Rhythm Future Quartet: ‘Gypsy Jazz!,’ 5-7 p.m. June 12, Occidental Center for the Arts. $25. 874-9392, occidentalcenterforthearts.org.
Brenda Reed: Collaboration Jazz Band, ‘Sunday Terrace’ concert series, 1-4 p.m. June 12, Village Terrace, Montgomery Village, Santa Rosa. Free. 545-3844, mvshops.com.
Healdsburg Jazz Festival: ‘New Orleans Day on the Green,’ 5 p.m. June 12, Dry Creek Vineyard, Healdsburg. $45. (800) 838-3006, healdsburgjazzfestival.org.
‘Art at the Source’: Final day of self-guided tour of 87 open arts studios, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Sunday, June 12 (runs June 4-5 and 11-12), west Sonoma County. Free. 829-4797, artatthesource.org.
