Quite quickly, however, she learned that her entrepreneurship would have plenty of hurdles, as she gambled with culinary ideas, spread herself thin with retail marketing concepts and navigated both fickle customers and a fickle economy.
Her plan was to open a Latin American tapas place called The Girl & the Gaucho, but the hotel owners insisted she stick with her own already popular cuisine. So she revamped the Glen Ellen space, instead, for the Gaucho idea. It lasted two and a half years, before she switched back to her signature cuisine, and what is now fig café. “People really did want Wine Country food,” she said. “Even though I do French, it’s country French, and so local that it’s really Sonoma.”
By this time, Toulze had kicked her out of the kitchens. Looking for more to do, Bernstein opened a girl & the fig on the Petaluma waterfront. That lasted 15 months.
“We did all kinds of demographic studies beforehand, but it never really took off,” Bernstein recalled. “Petaluma then was a coupon-early bird market, and discounting would have hurt our brand.”
This, and the Gaucho experience, led to another Bernstein mantra.
“I never focus on bad news,” she said. “Creativity makes you vulnerable, because people let you know right away if they like it or don’t. So you’ve got to just keep trying.”
Other short-lived endeavors included Figment in Glen Ellen, a shop selling her branded gourmet food products. But the space cost too much, and walk-in traffic was too slow. She and Toulze took over The Cottages of Old Sonoma bed-and-breakfast and its on-site deli in 2006, but in 2008, a drunk driver crashed into her Fig Pantry deli, abandoning his car amid the shattered gourmet food cases. Rather than rebuild, Bernstein sold the entire property.
“I took it as a sign,” she said. “It was hard to make money with the deli, since the cases always had to be completely full and beautiful and with restaurant-quality food. It was a lot to sell every day, so the staff ate really well.”
That same year, Bernstein took over operations for the historic The General’s Daughter in Sonoma and, looking back to her Viansa roots, turned it into an Italian-accented estate restaurant featuring produce from the property’s large gardens.
“Three weeks later, the economy tanked,” she said. “I had to lay off people. I could have stayed, I think, but it made more sense to finally hand it off (when the property was sold) in 2012.”
Not one to languish, Bernstein immediately jumped into a Kickstarter campaign to open yet another enterprise, Suite D, a space next to her catering kitchen on Schellville Road off Eighth Street East in Sonoma. She built it out into a commissary for her retail products, plus space for catering events, wedding tastings and pop-up dinners to honor legends like Julia Child and Paul Prudhomme and various local winemakers.
Last year, she and Toulze rolled out the fig rig, a food truck offering global bites like kimchee hot dogs, pork-beef chile fries, a shrimp po’boy and a ramen burger. The idea came from a team retreat at a Sonoma winery, where staff dreamed up ideas for new ventures. The inventive menu comes from her team of chefs, who like to create casual favorites for staff meals. Naturally, it also features Bernstein’s signature fig and chèvre salad, plus her confit.
“It’s easy, like catering,” she said of the faux wood panel-trimmed truck that makes appearances at wineries, state park events and its home base, the Lanning Building.
“Yes, I’ve closed more than I’ve opened,” she said of her career so far. “But I’ve always tried to bring all my staff along for the next adventure. It’s not rocket science; we’re just feeding people, but we try to feed people’s souls and energy, and give them a place to turn off the world for a few hours. I really want us all to be kind, warm and genuine, and I never want to take success for granted.”
ANNIVERSARY PARTY
For the “Fig-iversary” gala on Sunday, August 20, Bernstein is thinking in her signature ambitious style. Some 600-plus guests are anticipated for the gathering on the Sonoma Plaza, which will be set with long, communal tables.
Celebrating some of the girl & the fig’s most popular dishes, the menu will feature long-standing classics that have been customer favorites since she first opened her original
restaurant in Glen Ellen.
The supper is also a fundraiser, with 50 percent of the $75 ticket purchases being donated to charities guests can select, including Pet’s Lifeline, La Luz Center, the Sonoma Valley Community Health Center, the Sonoma Valley Education Foundation, and Bernstein’s own Sonoma FIG Foundation. Tickets are available to the public here. 453 First St. E., Sonoma, thegirlandthefig.com
The “Fig-iversary” menu:
Local Artisan Cheeses and House-Crafted Charcuterie with marinated olives, pickled vegetables, FIGfood condiments, Figcake, baguette.
Heirloom Radishes from Farmer Friends (including the Fig Farm) local butter and sea salt
Fig & Arugula Salad toasted pecans, Laura Chenel chèvre, roasted pancetta and fig-port vinaigrette
Crispy Duck Confit from girl & the fig’s 1997 menu with puy lentils, cabbage, mustard vinaigrette
Vegetarian Entrée Option on Request
Fig Crisps, Brownies, Blondies, Cookies baked in the fig kitchens
Rhône Wines from local winemakers