Pearl Restaurant Brings the Silk Road to Petaluma

Smoked trout and house ricotta with semolina flatbread at Pearl restaurant in Petaluma. heather irwin/PD
Smoked trout and house ricotta with semolina flatbread at Pearl restaurant in Petaluma. heather irwin/PD

Here’s a fun way to liven up a dull party — ask the snooty guy critiquing the bacon-wrapped dates if he knows the three Grand Cuisines of the world. Chances are good he’ll come up short.

Though no one really knows who made the distinction between Grand and not-so-grand cuisines, it’s generally recognized in the food world that Chinese and French are two of the three. So what’s the third? Hint: It’s not Italian, Japanese or Indian either.

It’s Turkish.

A server shows McFarland Spring Trout salad at Pearl restaurant in Petaluma. heather irwin/PD
A server shows McFarland Spring Trout salad at Pearl restaurant in Petaluma. heather irwin/PD

We’re not talking kabobs and doner, but the sultan-approved dishes of the Ottoman Empire, which spanned from Eastern Europe, through Syria, Persia and through North Africa. From rosewater and pomegranate syrup sorbets to hummus, pita, lamb tagine and rich fish stews, the thread that tied all the dishes together were the exotic spices from the Silk Road and herbs including cumin, saffron, turmeric, cinnamon, pepper, ginger, cloves, fenugreek and sumac.

It also happens to be what makes Petaluma’s new Pearl restaurant such an exciting find. Inspired by the flavors of the Eastern Mediterranean and North Africa (with a little Southern French and Spanish thrown in for good measure), chef/owners Brian Leitner and Annette Yang have transformed the former Luma into a sunny breakfast and lunch spot featuring their own interpretations of shakshuka, fresh pita, fattoush salad and braised meats like rabbit, brisket and lamb.

Buckwheat polenta and fish stew at Pearl restaurant in Petaluma. heather irwin/PD
Buckwheat polenta and fish stew at Pearl restaurant in Petaluma. heather irwin/PD

Brian, a Chez Panisse alum who owned a popular seafood restaurant in San Francisco and most recently an eclectic southern European restaurant in Portland, Oregon, returned to the Bay Area, and specifically Petaluma to escape some of the hubbub of city life. But Annette says they weren’t specifically trying to fill a niche by serving up food inspired by Israel, Syria, Turkey and Morocco.

“This is what we eat at home,” said Yang, who manages the front of the house — from bartending to seating and serving. “We like big, distinct and clean flavors with a light touch. It’s food that isn’t weighed down by butter and fats,” she added, saying Pearl is both ancient and modern in its approach to eating.

They aren’t obsessed, however, with recreating exact recipes. Dishes like their Moroccan Hangtown ($17), a pan-fried oyster with Merguez sausage, scrambled eggs and roasted peppers are more about a sense of place rather than being perfectly authentic. But hearty bowls from chickpea, fava and tomato stew are transportive, with warm spices and deep flavors reminiscent of faraway places.

“We are rooted in inspiration from an Old World culture and inspired by local ingredients,” said Yang.

Best Bets at Pearl:

We noticed that dishes do change slightly from week to week, depending on what’s in season, though you should be able to find favorites like shakshuka pretty regularly. The menu is divided into “smaller” and “bigger” plates, so depending on your hunger level, order accordingly. There is a brief but fascinating by-the-glass wine list, along with beer, sangria and a handful of coffee and low-booze tipples along with non-alcoholic avocado date shakes, fresh lemonade, warm ginger cider and not-your-usual iced teas.

Pearl is open for breakfast and lunch, so expect lighter daytime dishes rather than excessively heavy dinners.

Moroccan rice pudding wtih pink rie and rhubarb at Pearl restaurant in Petaluma. heather irwin/PD
Moroccan rice pudding wtih pink rie and rhubarb at Pearl restaurant in Petaluma. heather irwin/PD

Buckwheat Polenta ($7): This is polenta’s heartier, chewier, more rib-sticking cousin. Earthy, nutty and chewy, this version doesn’t contain corn, making a little closer to oatmeal than grits. Topped with a bloomy, soft cow’s milk cheese, this dish is hard to put down.

Israeli Breakfast ($12): This dish of hummus, labneh (a sort of cream cheese), fresh pita and fruit is so ancient that King David would probably recognize it. There’s a reason its lasted millennia — its light and delish, and the green hummus — made with parsley — is a vibrant change.

Braised Rabbit ($14): This lean, sustainable meat isn’t on everyone’s approval list, but cooked with fresh spring vegetables (asparagus, fava) and topped with apple allioli (a sweet, eggless garlic mayo-like spread) it’s the essence of the season.

Shakshuka with chickpea, fava and tomato stew at Pearl restaurant in Petaluma. heather irwin/PD
Shakshuka with chickpea, fava and tomato stew at Pearl restaurant in Petaluma. heather irwin/PD

Smoked Trout and House Ricotta ($9): Don’t leave without this one. Served in a jar, the combo of smoky, rich McFarland Spring trout (which has a salmon color) and creamy ricotta scream for Brian’s fresh semolina flatbread.

Shakshuka ($18): Another can’t miss. Chickpeas and favas swim in a ruby stew of tart tomatoes, topped with grilled Halloumi cheese. Tiny eggs are cooked into the dish, cooked in a wood-fired oven. You will need fresh pita topped with za’atar (a blend of herbs like sumac, oregano, hyssop and sesame seeds) to mop up the delicious mess.

Persian Fish Stew ($20): I loved this a lot more than I thought I would, mainly because of the tamarind-fenugreek broth. Mussels, rockfish and shrimp are steamed in a brilliantly-flavored stock, muddling the briny seafood flavors and the aromatic broth. Served with a slab of Della Fattoria bread, it’s heavenly.

Moroccan Rice Pudding ($8): It’s almost too pretty to eat, though ours was a little soupier than the rice pudding we’re used to eating, the tart, spiced dish is worth trying.

Overall: Bright and exotic layers of flavor that pay homage to a world cuisine that’s often overlooked by Americans.

If you go: No tipping! All menu prices consider the cost of living wages for staff, along with the restaurant’s operating costs. There’s not even a line on the receipt to leave a tip! We love the idea of actually knowing what we’re paying for up front.

500 First St., Petaluma, 707-559-5187, pearlpetaluma.com. Open 9 a.m. to 3p.m. Wednesday through Monday. Closed Tuesday.

John Ash & Co. and Seismic Brewery Team Up to Create New Beer Pairing Experience

Sonoma County may be a wine lover’s playground but, in recent years, the region has also evolved into a mecca for microbrew maniacs. While wine and food pairings have become old hat for some, Sonoma Beer Country is now serving up a new kind of duo.

On Tuesday, May 15th, Santa Rosa restaurant John Ash & Co. will team up with Seismic Brewing Co. to create combinations of beer and food that even the pickiest gourmands and beer nerds should enjoy. During a “special beer pairing dinner,” John Ash sous chef (and hophead) Danny Girolmo will serve “an innovative, seasonal four-course meal,” paired with four Seismic brews.

The evening will begin with a reception, during which guests can sip Seismic’s Alluvium pilsner while nibbling on appetizers, including pizza with Black Pig bacon, smoked tomato, and roasted garlic crème fraiche.

The first and second courses will include grilled puntarelle (a type of chicory) with boquerones, croûtes, sauce salmoriglio and caperberries, and a summer salad of prosciutto, melon, hearts of palm, red dragun, and cabernet vinaigrette, paired with Liquifaction, a Kolsch-style ale, and Namazu, an oat pale ale, respectively.

A Sonoma County beer pairing wouldn’t be complete without an IPA: the Szechuan seared duck main course will be served with Seismic’s Shatter Cone IPA. And there’s IPA for dessert, too: Seismic’s Megathrust IPA will combine with strawberry-banyuls (a dessert wine) sorbet with mint, tonka beans, and tropical fruits, to complement the beer’s tropical notes of mango, papaya, pineapple and tangerine.

The dinner starts at 6:30 p.m. Tickets are $95 per person and if you enjoy yourself a little too much, you’re in luck – John Ash & Co. also has a hotel onsite, the Vintners Inn, where you can rest your weary head and full belly. Tickets on sale now. Learn more here.

Floral Getaway: Petaluma’s Garden Valley Ranch Gets a Reboot

Jessica Yau dodges the three dogs who race past as she surveys the grounds of Garden Valley Ranch. She and her brother, Justin Yau, have called the ranch home for a little over a year now, after falling in love with the rose farm despite their minimal experience with farming or gardening.

“We come from a real estate background,” Jessica says with a laugh. “So we see potential.” It’s been a steep learning curve, she acknowledges, and on occasion, a challenging one.

When the Yaus first saw the place, it was in sad disrepair. The rose bushes hadn’t been thinned in a decade, and Jessica knew that they might “never win the battle against the mint.” But they vowed to create a thriving ecosystem, using Neem oil to combat rust on the leaves, and backwash from the koi pond to supply nitrogen. They let certain weeds with shallow roots overwinter to feed pollinators and attract good predators.

The Yaus’ shared mission was to make Garden Valley Ranch both a destination and a place to educate people about roses. This spring, they’ll host several public workshops and events, including First Friday tours of the gardens starting May 4 and a Mother’s Day open house, as well as ongoing floral workshops with top North Bay designers on hand to instruct on everything from compote arrangements to hand-tied bouquets.

The Yaus sell their cut flowers to visitors as well as wholesale, but the biggest part of their business is the potted roses. “Rose fanciers aren’t like regular gardeners. They are more like collectors,” Jessica explains. “We had a woman drive all the way from Washington to pick up one of our rare specialty roses called Honey Dijon.”

As for Jessica’s own favorites? She loves Classic Woman, a champagne-colored rose roughly the size of a peony; Lavender Simplicity, a Floribunda with “a lovely, citrusy scent”; and Black Baccara, a hybrid tea “with these blood-red, velvety petals.”

Nursery hours are Saturday and Sunday, 10 a.m. – 4 p.m., or by appointment. Five-gallon roses run $35-$45; 15-gallon or tree roses run $50-$60. 498 Pepper Road, Petaluma, 707-795-0919, gardenvalley.com 

Taco Lab in Windsor Thinks Outside the Shell

Sweet potato at Taco Lab in Windsor. Heather Irwin/PD
Sweet potato at Taco Lab in Windsor. Heather Irwin/PD

Everyone has an opinion about tacos. Especially in California.

Carnitas versus carne asada, soft-shelled versus crispy, dribbled with sour cream and guacamole or simply dressed with a couple of radish slices, onions, and cilantro? Whatever you choose, one wrong order can land you in a minefield of food credibility. Family members have been known to come to blows–or at least throw out a few derogatory statements about someone’s mother — over how to eat this simple street food. Trust me, friends, I’ve even been on the receiving end of nastiness about my affection for overusing pico de gallo on tacos.

Frankly, we’re ready for a taco truce. Let’s stop our bickering over queso fresco and raise a cerveza to taco inclusion.

The recent opening of Taco Lab in Windsor is just the place to do that. It’s sort of a taqueria, but also an experiment in thinking outside the shell.

Owned by Superburger’s Bill Cordell, the casual spot just off the square features an ever-changing lineup of proteins that range from super-tasty carne asada and carnitas to globally-inspired flavors like Brazilian beef with chimichurri, Indian-spiced chicken, the meatless Imposter ground “beef” (it’s really good, promise), jerk chicken and other daily Protein Specials.

“Think of a menu without cultural borders, where the biggest rule is that it has to fit in a taco, burrito or bowl,” said Cordell. Inspiration comes from Mexico, Brazil, Puerto Rico, China, India and beyond, he added.

Instead of tortillas, choose from a burrito, burrito bowl, quesadilla, loaded baked potato or yam, or salad bowl. Each is $10 and include chips and salsa.

You can add various toppings to your “experiment”, from corn to queso. We also really liked the esquite, a street corn salad ($3.75) and are craving Taco Lab’s freshly made agua fresca, margaritas, and sangria.

The Lab opened May 1, and there are still a few R+D issues being ironed out, but the large outdoor patio and lineup of flavors is one experiment we’re willing to keep testing.

9238 Old Redwood Hwy, #128, Windsor, tacolabrestaurant.com. Open daily from 11a.m. to 8:30p.m

Waterside Style in Sonoma: How to Look Cool by the River, Ocean and Pool

Don’t sweat the arrival of the blistering sun! Get cool (and look cool) in or by the water. Here are swimsuits, sandals, sunglasses and more for a hot Sonoma summer – because your fashion sense doesn’t have to take a holiday just because you do. All are available in local stores – click through the above gallery for details.

5 Inspiring Sonoma County Wine Women

As the old saying goes, behind every good wine is a great woman. Ok, we just made that up – but, in Sonoma Wine Country, it’s true. Click through the above gallery to get to know five amazing local women, producing some of the best wines in the world. (And check out our article from last year on women in wine.

14 Kid-Friendly Things to Do in Sonoma County – June and July

6/20/2013: B3: PC: Ben Jenkel, left, and Brittany Latorre ride the Super Slide at the Sonoma-Marin Fair, in Petaluma, on Wednesday, June 19, 2013. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)

Looking for some family-friendly fun in June and July? Click through the gallery above for some of our favorite picks.

10 Sonoma Brunch Spots for a Mamalicious Mother’s Day

Mom deserves a day off from any cooking duties. Take her out to one of these great breakfasts or brunches, serving delish dishes for Mother’s Day 2018. Click through the above gallery for details. Make sure to call ahead and check if there are still reservations available. Did we miss a favorite? Let us know in the comments below.