Whether you call ‘em doughnuts or donuts; cake or yeast; jelly-filled or straight up glazed, it’s always time for these fried bits of heaven. But wasting calories on a day-old mess just isn’t worth it. Click through the gallery for some of our favorites across the county.
Have more favorites we missed? Let us know in the comments.
City Garden Doughnuts & Coffee, Santa Rosa: City Garden is one of the newer players in the doughnut game. Using brioche dough, their donuts take a subtler approach with intensely-flavored glazes made with fresh fruit or rich chocolate. Richer, but less greasy than a regular donut, they are totally crave-worthy. 1200 4th St., Santa Rosa, 707-595-1932
Donuts & Bagel Cafe, Santa Rosa: Food-choosy friends swear this is the best donut cafe in town. Always packed, jelly are a favorite. Donut holes are also awesome. 750 Stony Point Rd, Santa Rosa, 707-284-1012.
BurtoNZ Bakery, Windsor: You can thank the Kiwis for coming up with a cream and raspberry filled donut that’s about the best thing since sliced bread. Though it lacks the traditional hole in the middle, this New Zealand specialty is a not-too-sweet fried torpedo rolled in sugar, split down the middle and stuffed with whipped cream and a schmear of seedless raspberry jam. Ohhh, so good with morning coffee or an evening dessert, or any time in between. 9076 Brooks Rd S, Windsor, 707-687-5455.
Jelly Donut, Santa Rosa: My favorite raspberry jelly donut. Open 24 hours. ’Nuf said. 443 Dutton Ave, Ste 10, Santa Rosa, 707-544-8494.
Donut City, Santa Rosa: Wait, actually this is also my favorite raspberry jelly donut. Just not open 24 hours. 331 Guerneville Rd # M, Santa Rosa, 707-579-9955.
Crystal’s Corner, Santa Rosa: If you need a burger with your donut, here’s the place. Decent donuts served up friendly. Right next to Whole Foods to make you feel extra guilty. 1185 Yulupa Ave, Santa Rosa, 707-545-5668.
Krispy Kreme, Rohnert Park: What once was lost, now is found. Krispy Creme has returned to Sonoma County, this time just a little further south, but much closer to an off-ramp. Look for the “Hot Now” neon sign to find out when donuts are at their freshest. Plus, they’re open until 11p.m. for late night munchies. 5090 Redwood Dr, Rohnert Park, (707) 521-9154.
Bright Bear Bakery, Petaluma: You had us at Strawberry Buttercream Cronut. A cross between the flaky goodness of a croissant and the fried perfection of a donut, this hybrid breakfast — let’s be honest, anytime — treat is a specialty. 2620 Lakeville Hwy., Petaluma, 707-787-7411.
Dunkin’ Donuts, Petaluma: The first outpost of this East Coast and Midwest donut favorite arrived in Petaluma to the delight of transplants. In addition to their legendary coffee, donuts come in every flavor of the rainbow. Because that’s what donuts are made of…rainbows and love. 435 N McDowell Blvd Suite 50, Petaluma, (707) 408-2100.
Keny’s Donuts, Petaluma: A longtime local favorite that’s been around for more than two decades. 202 Douglas St., Petaluma, 707-765-3961.
Sunrise Donuts, Petaluma: Chocolate cake and blueberry donuts are special favorites at this neighborhood spot. 68 E Washington St., Petaluma, 707-762-6601
Donut Den, Petaluma: Donuts. Chinese food. While the combo may be a little off-beat, this small Petaluma restaurant does both equally well. 1390 N. McDowell Blvd # J, Petaluma, 707-792-1312.
Danish & Donuts, Sonoma: Crullers are a specialty at Sonoma’s Danish & Donuts, along with yeasty donuts with sprinkles, and maybe a danish or two if you get there early. Boston creme’s get top billing. 18580 Sonoma Hwy., Sonoma, 707-938-1333.
Flaky Cream Do-Nuts & Coffee Shop, Healdsburg: A favorite coffee shop since the 1960s, this classic has full breakfast and lunch. But it’s the donuts in the window every morning that have been drawing kids and hungry grown-ups to this spot for more than 50 years. They even have a “buy 5 get one free” deal for their donuts. Amazing glazed donuts. 441 Center Street, Healdsburg, 707-433-3895.
Zazu Kitchen + Farm, Sebastopol: Due to the recent flooding, Zazu is temporarily closed. We’re looking forward to their maple-glazed donuts with bacon jimmies once they reopen.
Want to usher in spring with some culture? In Sonoma County, art exhibitions and gallery shows are in full bloom this month.
Fulton Crossing Open Studios, Fulton, March 15, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.: The Fulton Crossing Artisan Center hosts an open studio show on the third Friday of every month, displaying the works of its tenants. Featured artist this month is Jaclyn Finkle, who will showcase a series of line work paintings titled “Unspoken Words.” Finkle, a San Francisco Art Institute graduate, referred to the works of Jean-Michel Basquiat when she began incorporating words into her paintings and portraits. There will be live music and complimentary wine at the event. Fulton Crossing Gallery, Fulton. For more information, contact the gallery at 707-331-4348.
Postcards from Healdsburg Art Exhibit, Healdsburg, March 14-17: Like most visitors to Wine Country, Susa Solero spent her most recent sojourn in Healdsburg taking photographs. Unlike most visitors, the German artist will exhibit her vacation snapshots at a vernissage. View the exhibition, “Postcards from Healdsburg with love, Susa,” March 14 to 17 at Chris Foley Fine Leather shop, located two blocks north of the Healdsburg Plaza. Chris Foley Fine Leather from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., March 14-17. For more information, contact the shop at 707-473-9892.
Peace, Love and Woodstock, Santa Rosa, March 17, 2019–March 8, 2020: As the Charles M. Schulz Museum wraps up its “Then Came the Dog” exhibition, which traces the origins of Snoopy back to Schulz boyhood dog Spike, another famed Peanuts character takes the stage. From March 17, museumgoers will be able to discover Woodstock, the eccentric little bird named for the iconic music festival. During spring break, March 18-22, kids can get a little extra artsy at the museum while learning cartooning and animation. Downstairs Changing Gallery at the Charles M. Schulz Museum, Santa Rosa. For more information, contact Faith Yazel at 707-579-4452.
Roshambo Juried Show, Graton, March 19-April 21; Artists’ Reception March 23: Take your rock-paper-scissors game to the next level as Graton Gallery calls on local artists to contribute works made of or on paper, cut with scissors, or made of rock or stoneware. Deliver your art work in person March 14 through March 17. The Roshambo Juried Show will take place March 19 to April 21, with an artists’ reception on Saturday, March 23, between 2 p.m. and 5 p.m. Graton Gallery, Graton, gratongallery.net. For more information, contact the gallery at 707-829-8912.
Healing the Environment, Santa Rosa, through March 22: In this eco-conscious exhibition, local artists offer a commentary on climate change through photographs, sculptures and paintings. The show, hosted by the Santa Rosa Arts Center in the SOFA arts district, is modeled after a previous exhibition at the same venue, “Healing By Art: After The Fires,” which was created as a reaction to the 2017 North Bay fires. Santa Rosa Arts Center, santarosaartscenter.org. For more information, contact the gallery at 707-526-0135.
Hitchcock Celebration, “The Birds,” Bodega, March 23, 11 a.m.-5 p.m.: The towns of Bodega and Bodega Bay were both featured in Hitchcock classic The Birds, something locals like to celebrate. On March 23 (the date of this year’s Hitchcock Film Festival), 50 local artists will be showcasing pieces inspired by the film at the Artisans’ Co-Op Art Gallery. There will be artist demonstrations, ten percent discount on all art, and a grand prize raffle for a Birds-inspired birdhouse, created by artist Elita Christensen. Artisans’ Co-op Art Gallery, Bodega, artisansco-op.com. For more information, contact Francesca Scalpi at 707-876-9830.
Dream Vessels & A Murder of Crows, Healdsburg, through March 24: Painter and sculptor Marsha Connell began making collages to send to her daughter while she was living abroad at the time of the first Gulf War. Connell found the creative process of making collages healing; the resulting series of 150 “dream vessels” merges the beauty of life with the passage of time and an awareness of death. It will be exhibited at the Upstairs Art Gallery in Healdsburg, alongside Connell’s “Murder of Crows” collection of still life and landscapes. Upstairs Art Gallery, Healdsburg, upstairsartgallery.net. For more information, contact Beverly Bird at 707-799-1490.
The National Parks Plein Air Project, Petaluma, through March 23: Local artist and gallery owner Mary Fassbinder went on a three-and-a-half year, 72,000-mile journey to paint “en plain air” in all 60 National Parks. Her paintings, inspired by French impressionists, are now the centerpiece of an exhibition at the Petaluma Arts Center; Fassbinder hopes they will inspire viewers to help preserve our national natural treasures. The exhibition also includes works by Davis Perkins, a California landscape artist.Petaluma Arts Center, petalumaartscenter.org. For more information, contact the gallery at 707-762-5600.
Nest: Leather + Fiber | a Love Story, Sonoma, through March 30: In this debut solo exhibition, Santa Rosa artist Keyaira Terry unveils handwoven pieces made of leather, local wool and plant materials. A self-taught artist, Terry combines a modern aesthetic with sustainably sourced materials, creating a love letter to local nature. She sources much of her materials from Fibershed, a non-profit organization that develops “regional, regenerative fiber systems.” Terry will host a workshop on March 23, 11:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Gallery 212 at the Sonoma Community Center, Sonoma, sonomacommunitycenter.org. For more information, contact Keyaira Terry at 707-479-2144.
Re-Creation, Sebastopol, through March 30: Jewelry artist Michelle Hoting, whose latest work is on display at Sebastopol Gallery, creates unique jewelry from repurposed metals that reflect the natural world. She crafted her new pieces using an ancient Japanese mixed-metal technique called mokume gane, layering various metals to create wearable works of art with a wood-grain-like pattern. Sebastopol Gallery, sebastopol-gallery.com. For more information, contact Michelle Hoting at 707-791-4680.
April Gornik, Storm, Rain and Light, Jacquard Tapestry.
Bronzes – Tapestries, Contemporary Works in Time Honored Media, Geyserville, through March 31: The Dallas A. Saunders Artisan Textiles gallery in Alexander Valley is currently displaying works by major American artists. Featured pieces include Jim Dine’s 1978 bronze sculptures, April Gornik’s natural landscape tapestries, and Chuck Close’s black and white realism tapestries. Dallas A. Saunders Artisan Textiles, weekends from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., dallasasaunders.com. For more information, contact the gallery at 707-708-9065.
Not Just Landscapes, Sebastopol, through March 31: This international group exhibition, juried by Bay Area artist Robin Dintiman, will include artwork that reflect scenery “from cityscapes to nature views.” Pulling together seemingly disparate works in a variety of media – hybrid video paintings, kinetic art, monoprints, woodcuts, and more – the exhibition displays artistic pieces that share “a concern for our earth” and “love for the natural world.” Sebastopol Center for the Arts, sebarts.org. For more information, contact the art center at 707-829-4797.
Portals: A Space for Color, Sonoma, through April 7: Phillip K Smith III creates light-based work in his Palm Desert studio to explore relationships between color, form, surface and change. His resulting Portals series is on vibrant display at the Sonoma Valley Museum of Art. Each installation Smith crafts changes and adapts to the ambient light it is displayed in, as colors merge into pastels and shadows in sunlight, and at night, become saturated and envelope the surrounding space. Sonoma Valley Museum of Art, svma.org. For more information, contact the museum at 707-939-7862.
Richard Shaw and Wanxin Zhang, Sonoma, through April 7: Running concurrently with Portals, Bay Area artists Richard Shaw and Wanxin Zhang are presenting their avant-garde clay art in a self-titled exhibit at the Sonoma Valley Museum of Art. Their work explores the cultural exchange between the West and China and infuses satire to reference their message of global history, popular culture and personal experience. Sonoma Valley Museum of Art, svma.org. For more information, contact the museum at 707-939-7862.
See Something, Say Something, Santa Rosa, through April 20: Bay Area artists David Huffman and Evri Kwong and Los Angeles artist Linda Vallejo currently have their socially conscious work on display at the Museum of Sonoma County in an exhibit called “See Something, Say Something.” The title is derived from the warning posted in public spaces to encourage citizens to speak up if they notice something suspicious, originating from the 9/11 terrorist attacks. However, this exhibit, with works featuring diverse cultural perspectives, expands the call to action to motivate people to point out other social injustices, such as “racism, sexism, economic disparity and climate change.” Museum of Sonoma County, museumsc.org. For more information, contact the gallery at 707-579-1500.
Railroad Square has a new restaurant, Railroad Stop Bar & Kitchen at the Hyatt Regency Sonoma. Courtesy photo.
Railroad Square has a new restaurant, Railroad Stop Bar & Kitchen at the Hyatt Regency Sonoma. The former Brasserie has been redesigned completely, with Executive Chef Rene Jakushak heading the kitchen. Jakushak was, for many years, the chef of Nectar Restaurant at the Hilton, which burned during the 2017 wildfires.
The restaurant calls itself, “farm-to-fire” with custom barrel-aged cocktails, wines and craft beer. Offering breakfast and dinner, the menu includes a fairly straightforward breakfast lineup of hearty Benedicts, buttermilk pancakes, pastrami hash and lighter plates of smoothies, oatmeal and the required avocado toast (shall we just assume this is now the official California breakfast?)
Dinner plates that caught my attention on the new menu: Lobster, tomato and smoked mozzarella arancini, Roseland Street Cod Fish Tacos with pickled onions and smoked chili aioli, Cubano sliders, pastrami Reuben and Jakushak’s signature Bellwether Farms “adult” mac and cheese with a few veggies tucked in for good measure.
Happy hour runs from 4-6p.m. daily with Chile Relleno fundito dip, bacon whiskey meatballs, and Cubano sliders along with $6 red and white wines of the day, $4 well drinks and $3 off barrel-aged cocktails.The restaurant is now open, but expect more to come.
Lead Bartenders Jonathan Grady and Sarah Boryszewski helm the beverage program creating custom barrel-aged cocktails ($10-15) with a twist highlighting unexpected spirits, such as tequila for an Old Fashioned, among others. Up to 10 cocktails at a time are available on tap after being aged for 30-90 days.
Railroad Stop Bar & Kitchen is located at 170 Railroad Street, Santa Rosa, and is open daily for breakfast from 6:30-10:30 a.m., happy hour daily and dinner from 6-11 p.m.
Inside a modern-chic Farmhouse in Healdsburg, 40 stylishly dressed guests were greeted with craft cocktails as a guitarist strummed flamenco tunes in the corner. While people sipped and mingled, chefs in the open kitchen topped rustic herb crackers with saffron cream and trout roe. Communal tables were laden with wineglasses, set for the multi-course feast to come.
While the scene could easily have been mistaken for a winemaker dinner — and indeed, Sonoma County wines were paired with each course — there was an important distinction: This event was all about weed. see led grow lights for weed.
The evening was organized by TSO Sonoma, a high-end cannabis company founded by Allison Kosta, former co-owner of Kosta Browne Winery in Sebastopol, and Devika Maskey, president of Ellipsis Wine Company in Napa. The duo applied their years of wine industry experience to the concept of a cannabis dinner, pairing featured wines and marijuana strains with elegant dishes such as foie gras tartlet and Sonoma County lamb loin.
To keep the event approachable and legal — California regulations don’t allow pot and alcohol to be served together at public events — the cannabis was “sampled” by smell only, via buds (which are known as flower, singular) passed around the tables for guests to sniff and discuss.
None of this would have been possible if California voters hadn’t given the thumbs-up to recreational cannabis in 2016, allowing legal sales to start in 2018. While many in the North Coast wine industry worried that cannabis businesses would swoop in to steal their market share, workers, and customers — all legitimate concerns — savvy vintners also began looking for ways to get involved.
Today, TSO Sonoma is one of a handful of Sonoma County-based cannabis ventures founded by wine producers. These adventurous entrepreneurs are offering everything from educational events to edibles to high-end cannabis flower.
Disrupting Themselves: The Grower’s Series by Francis Ford Coppola
A little over a year ago, film director and Sonoma County vintner Francis Ford Coppola handed a papier-mâché box to Kathleen Murphy, his director of innovation. He’d made the container himself. Inside the wine-bottle-shaped box were three small Ziploc bags, each labeled with the name of a different location in Humboldt County. This was Coppola’s way of saying he wanted to create a cannabis brand. “That was the genesis of it,” Murphy says. “He wanted to provide outdoor flower from different appellations to showcase the growers’ expertise and terroir.”
Coppola launched The Grower’s Series by Francis Ford Coppola at the end of 2018, with Murphy’s help. Now packaged in a bottle-shaped tin instead of a paper box, the limited-edition offering includes three different strains of 100% organic cannabis flower from Humboldt County — the region Coppola believes is best for growing outdoor cannabis. The kit also includes a pipe and rolling papers, and sells through dispensaries for $99.
To avoid any legal issues that could arise by associating Francis Ford Coppola Winery with a federally illegal substance, Coppola set up a separate company for his cannabis business and hired a team of lawyers to ensure compliance with California regulations. He was not particularly worried about consumer perception, Murphy says, or hurting his wine brand.
“The landscape is changing in the way the consumers enjoy their evenings,” Murphy notes. “Why not be the agent that is disrupting our own industry instead of letting the (cannabis) industry disrupt us? The key factor was to be ahead of the curve.”
If the Grower’s Series is successful, Coppola will consider expanding his product line into the cannabis-infused drinks category — though not necessarily with wine. “Obviously there would be a nice, tight link to beverages,” Murphy says, “so we’re beginning to explore that landscape.”
Wrangling the Tiger: Garden Society
Erin Gore, founder and CEO of the Garden Society cannabis confection company, had been immersed in wine since she left her corporate job in 2016 to run Gore Family Vineyards, the Healdsburg-based winery founded by her husband Tom, the vineyard director for Constellation Brands. But as much as she loved the wine business, cannabis was her real passion.
“I had just recovered from two major hip surgeries, so I started to understand the medical value of cannabis,” Gore says. “I also had a really hard time sleeping, and wine kept me up. I was trying to find something that would make me feel good and let me relax, and I found that in cannabis.”
Despite her relief, she quickly became frustrated with weed offerings that were too potent or riddled with pesticides. “I would go to dispensaries, and I didn’t feel like there were products there for me,” she says. “I didn’t know where the cannabis came from, and I was tired of having a fingernail-sized piece of a gummy and being blasted. So I started making products myself.”
She began by hosting “high holiday” baking parties, inviting female friends to experiment with pot-laced cookies and candies. As word got around and her baking bashes grew, she realized that there were lots of women who wanted to try cannabis but hadn’t found the right products.
Garden Society launched in 2016 with low-dose chocolates and herb gelées made from sun-grown, biodynamically farmed cannabis. Gore introduced a line of mini pre-rolled joints in early 2019, followed by a spicy dark chocolate created in collaboration with Windsor’s Volo Chocolate.
Gore sells her products thorough local dispensaries and her own delivery service, tied to an in-home event program that’s similar to a Tupperware party — only with a focus on cannabis education instead of food storage. “This is my purpose and my passion,” Gore says. “It’s the tiger I’m trying to wrangle by the tail.”
High on Education: TSO Sonoma
Winery veterans Allison Kosta and Devika Maskey founded TSO Sonoma (TSO is pronounced “so”) in 2017 as a luxury cannabis brand for women. “Coming from the events and hospitality side of the wine industry, I saw this need for products that appeal to a more sophisticated palate,” Kosta says.
The partners originally intended to focus on curated, organically farmed, and sun-grown cannabis products, but expanded into educational pairing dinners and yoga wellness retreats while waiting for the city of Santa Rosa to approve their retail permit.
“There’s still a big need for education,” Maskey says. “A lot of people aren’t sure what dose to take or what kinds of products they should use.”
Santa Rosa approved TSO’s permit in January after a nine-month processing bottleneck, setting in motion plans to open TSO Test Kitchen, a combination dispensary/lounge with delivery service, in late 2019. Cannabis consumption won’t initially be allowed on the premises, but TSO will be eligible to upgrade its permit in 2020. In the meantime, retail sales, cooking classes, and educational events will be offered on-site. TSO’s own line of products will include two strain-specific vapor pens, and the company will curate monthly subscription boxes — similar to a wine club — filled with cannabis products and wellness items. A nonalcoholic, pot-infused rosé is set for release in early 2020, once the final product is perfected.
“We’re working with the flavor and mouthfeel to keep the integrity of the wine,” Kosta says.
“That’s obviously really important for Devika and me, coming from the wine business.”
Where to Partake
TSO SONOMA
For updates about upcoming events and the TSO Test Kitchen, sign up for a free membership at tsosonoma.com.
THE GROWER’S SERIES
Coppola’s cannabis is sold locally at Sparc dispensaries in Santa Rosa and Sebastopol. sparcsf.org
GARDEN SOCIETY
Find products at Soulful in Sebastopol, Garden Society Delivery Service, and getsava.com. To host a cannabis education party, email info@thegardensociety.com.
SONOMA WINE & WEED TOURS
Spend the day touring wineries and cannabis dispensaries with the Sonoma County Experience (thesonomacountyexperience.com) and Wine Country Weed Trips (winecountryweedtrips.com).
It’s as sure a sign of spring as any: plum trees bursting into bloom, their pinks, mauves, and whites standing in stark relief against a backdrop of vibrant green. One day back in 2013, Windsor-based photographer Ron Koeberer found himself awestruck by the sight of several such trees, which he spotted in a vineyard on a stretch of Old Redwood Highway between Limerick Lane and Highway 101. He returned frequently in the days that followed to document the trees in different weather, light, and times of day.
This endeavor became an annual ritual for Koeberer, but the photographs from that first year remain his favorites. “There is always something special to me about the first time you start photographing a subject, something that cannot be reproduced no matter how hard you try,” he says. “But I keep returning each spring, to the same stretch of highway, monitoring the progress of the blossoms, hoping it does not rain and knock the blossoms off when they reach full bloom.”
Valentina Stoll helps her mom Adelle squeegee water from her business, Adelle Stoll, in the Barlow business district in Sebastopol on Thursday. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
“The Barlow is open!”
Kathrin Green, co-owner of floral design shop California Sister, is eager to spread this message to the public. Her shop, located at the Sebastopol marketplace, survived the February floods with its showroom unscathed, but foot traffic has since been reduced to barely a trickle.
And Green is not alone in her efforts to bring customers back to The Barlow and other West County businesses affected by the flooding.
“None of us can pay our rent if people don’t come to shop,” said watercolor artist Nan Still of Russian River Art Gallery in downtown Guerneville. The co-op gallery suffered some water damage but has opened their doors to the public after a rapid cleanup. “People can use us as a museum…to take a break from the cleanup,” Still said.
To aid recovery efforts, local businesses are now banding together. “It is a community,” said Green of the merchants at The Barlow. “We’re all backing each other.”
Several stores and restaurants at The Barlow are hosting pop-up shops for neighbors that suffered significant damage and loss of merchandise. Fern Bar, for example, will host juice and smoothie bar The Nectary, while designer boutique Scout West County makes space for handbag designer Adelle Stoll.
Stoll opened her Barlow retail space just nine months before the flooding. Her entire inventory, including machines and handcrafted wool and leather goods, was destroyed. Like other small business owners, Stoll now faces the task of raising money to replace inventory while recreating her collection of handbags and accessories. As part of this effort, she will create a “capsule collection” inspired by Scout West County’s aesthetic. (We predict a perfect match between Stoll’s spectacular craftsmanship and Scout West County’s simple and serenely-colored style.)
In Guerneville, many retail spaces avoided significant water damage but some businesses, like Boon Eat + Drink, closed temporarily so that staff could help with the cleanup effort in the community. This sense of community is also reinforced by locals and visitors shopping in Sebastopol and Guerneville stores.
In addition to patronizing businesses impacted by the flooding (in stores and online), there are also fundraising efforts to support. Here are a few campaigns to consider. We’ll continue to add to this list.
Adovada chili at Chili Joe’s in Petaluma. Heather Irwin/PD
When’s the last time any chef used the words Brunoise and Texas caviar in the same sentence? Turns out more recently than you might think, and right in our own backyard.
Mark Yuwiler, the owner of Petaluma’s Chili Joe’s cafe, is explaining a popular Lone Star state condiment best known for being a favorite recipe in 1970s women’s magazines. It’s traditionally made with canned beans, chopped onions, jalapeños and a little Rotel to class it up.
The classically trained French chef who’s worked at spots like the Stanford Court Hotel in San Francisco has re-envisioned the caviar-free tortilla chip dip with a mix of heirloom Santa Maria pinquito beans, black eyed peas, and carefully diced — or Brunoise cut if you’re a chef — jalapenos, red peppers, celery and red onion. It’s topped with a zesty lime vinaigrette atop a bed of leaf lettuce. In other words, he’s making it into something you’d actually want to eat.
New Mexi Joe Hamburger with flame-roasted Hatch and poblano peppers, Petaluma Creamery jack cheese, flame-charred sweet white onion slab, and green onion-garlic mayoli, on a toasted potato bun at Chili Joe’s. Heather irwin/PD
That highbrow-lowbrow juxtaposition of classic comfort foods gussied up with top-shelf local ingredients and a culinary master’s touch is exactly what’s making Yuwiler’s tiny chili cafe such a hit.
Having given up his starched white chef jacket for a brown work shirt and apron, he’s found his bliss at the bottom of a chili bowl.
Yuwiler and his wife, schoolteacher Wendy Travis, opened their dream restaurant in a tiny standalone building last summer. It happened to be on their 10th wedding anniversary, Yuwiler says, though they kind of forget that bit as the doors opened. Since then, it’s been a runaway success with customers coming back week after week for his LA Street Chili doused tamales, chili cheese tater tots, charbroiled burgers, hot dogs and ever-rotating list of regional chili favorites from San Antonio to Cincinnati. And yes, there many, many kinds of chili which Yuwiler is happy to explain and frequently adds as specials to the menu.
LA Street Tamales at Chili Joes in Petaluma. Heather Irwin/PD
“I was French trained and I love fancy food, California cuisine and all the wonderful stuff we have around here. This is heaven for cooks and eaters. But what I wanted to do was recreate something nostalgic, something retro but not contrived,” Yuwiler said. Raised in Santa Monica, he remembers a time when chili cafes were familiar —and economical — family eateries. In Santa Rosa, Ingram’s Chili Bowl reigned supreme for nearly half a century until its closure in 2000.
“LA is the home of chili cheese fries, chili burgers,” he said. “I grew up eating different styles, and I remember the fun I had going with my dad to all the cool places. In terms of comfort food, you’ve got mac and cheese, spaghetti and meatballs, but chili is up there as as a top five, for sure.”
That kind of humble grub has pretty much gone the way of the dinosaur, relegated mostly to home kitchens where it’s made with canned ingredients, hamburger and prepackaged seasoning. “You just don’t see it anywhere. They’ve all disappeared,” he said, adding that the few restaurants that do serve it usually use frozen or canned versions.
Yuwiler treats his chili more like Boeuf Bourguignon than the skillet chili most of us are familiar with at home. He carefully seasons and braises the meat, toasts the spices, and uses plenty of Petaluma Creamery cheese, heirloom Rancho Gordo beans and sweet white onions. His sous chef Martin Perez also does double duty, working in a high-end restaurant at night and by day at Joe’s.
“By night he does fancy Italian, by day he makes chili,” says Yuwiler, whose small staff do everything from bussing to dishes.
Yuwiler says his customers of all ages appreciate the familiar tastes. When asked if he has a children’s menu at the restaurant, he says, “Here, the entire menu is a kid’s menu. Its for little kids and big kids.” The idea is to appeal to everyone’s inner child.
Prices are generally moderate, like the heat in his dishes. Yuwiler says that’s what the whole “Joe’s” restaurant genre is all about. For him a restaurant with the name “Joe’s” in it meant you’d be well fed, you won’t walk away hungry and you won’t go broke.
Frito pie at Chili Joes in Petaluma. Heathe Irwin/PD
Burgers and hot dogs those have a significant spot on the menu too. But don’t expect mushroom burgers or Western burgers with bbq sauce. Instead, his burgers have a clear point of view. He’s also included a crowd-pleasing lineup of beers, including Texas favorite Shiner Bock, Sonoma wines and canned sodas.
What’s most important, though, is that customers feel like family and know that when it comes to chili there is no wrong way to eat it or make it.
“Chili is whatever you want it to be. It’s like coming into our home and being family,” he said. As long as your family knows how to do a proper Brunoise.
Best Bets
Chili Joe’s Chili, $4.75/9.75: Just like mom’s, but way better. Made with ground beef, heirloom beans, toasted spices and tomatoes, this is classic family-style chili.
Topped with onions and cheddar and served with a side of oyster crackers. Mark’s workhorse chili is available with turkey or meatless. “This is every mom’s skillet chili, and a big comfort thing to a lot of people,” Yuwiler says.
Green Go Chili, $13.95: Also a specialty that’s not always on the menu. A riff on chile verde, a green chile made with tomatillos, his has ground turkey, beans and peppers. It’s a lighter, brighter chili with strong Southwest influences.
Frito Pie, $4.50: What could be more unsophisticated than a bag of Fritos topped with thick LA-style chili, cheddar cheese, sweet onions and pickled jalapenos? Not much, and that’s the beauty. A Southwest classic. “So it’s kind of sleazy, but it’s when it’s good, it’s really good,” says Yuwiler.
Santa Fe Carne Adovada at Chili Joe’s in Petaluma. Heather Irwin/PD
Santa Fe Carne Adovada, $13.95: This special chili isn’t always available, so if it’s on the menu, grab it. Pork shoulder is slow-cooked in a velvety red chile gravy has sweet spices and a deep, complex flavor of the southwest. Traditionally made without cumin, its more like a comforting stew topped with fresh cotija, fresh jalapeño, and cilantro. Served with a side of beans and tortillas.
New MexiJoe Hamburger ($9.95): Though the Big Boy-inspired Valley Joe Burger is the top seller, this charbroiled beef patty is topped by mild Hatch and poblano peppers, slab of flame-charred sweet white onion and enrobed by melty Jack cheese that caramelizes around the edges. Served on a solid potato bun that holds up to the handful inside. The Valley Joe ($8.95) is an homage to classic cheeseburgers, grill-seared and topped with American cheese, shredded iceberg lettuce, mayo and their secret red relish on a toasted sesame seed bun.
Doggie Dog, $6.75: No one judges you if you want a little ketchup on your dog here. Classic Miller hot dogs, however, get a San Francisco style dress-up Doggie Diner-style. Topped with Mark’s secret red relish and sweet onions. The ends of the toasted bun are clipped short to expose just a little more of the all-beef weenies.
LA Street Tamale: Sides are some of the most fun at Chili Joe’s, and this is no x-ception. A base of XLNT brand tamales from Southern California made with seasoned beef and masa, they’re topped with thick LA Street chili (no beans, lots of Mexican spices).
Chili Cheese Tots, $4.50: Tater tots fried in rice bran oil for a light, crispy crunch. Smothered with LA street chili and the works. Served in a paper boat.
CJ’s Cornbread, $2.75: Fluffy cornbread dotted with red peppers and green jalapenos “Christmas” style. Whipped honey butter with orange zest brings it home.
Jalapeno Cole Slaw, $2.75: A tart and tangy salad with a base of shredded cabbage, red and green peppers and sliced radish topped with pickled red onions and jalapenos. Lime vinaigrette ties it together with a bow. Yuwiler calls it “the grease cutter”, a bright, crisp salad with just a hint of heat.
Overall: Comfort classics of the homiest sort from a chef who knows how to make some serious grub. A local joint that can sometimes get crowded on weekends, but that’s half the fun.
Details: 312 Petaluma Boulevard South, Petaluma, (707) 971-7537, chilijoes.com. Open 11:30am-2:30pm Wednesday-Sunday. Closed Monday and Tuesday.
Semla at Stockhome Restaurant in Petaluma. Heather Irwin/PD
Season for Semla
The advent of Lent means Swedish Semla are on the menu at Stockhome.
These tasty cardomom-spiced wheat buns are filled with sweet almond cream and topped with a big swirl of whipped cream. They’re decadent little bombs of deliciousness that are only available through March. (Would you like to sample more Swedish delicacies in Sonoma County? Check out these tips from our Swedish editor.)
Available at Stockhome, 220 Western Ave., Petaluma, stockhomerestaurant.com.
It’s been a tough week of mucking out for our friends at Village Bakery, Zazu, The Nectary, Barrio Cocina Fresca, The Farmer’s Wife, Community Market, Sushi Kosho, Rio Nido Roadhouse, the R3 Hotel, Community Market and a number of others.
Most have created Go Fund Me campaigns to recoup losses and help pay salaries for workers. You can find details here. Also, make sure to patronize Sebastopol and West County restaurants that remain open. We’re in this together!
Sonoma County Restaurant Week Continues
If you haven’t experienced the prix fixe menus of restaurants throughout the county already, you have exactly two more days to do so.
One thing I’d like to correct from my articles, however, is the very unintentional exclusion of Cloverdale in my write-ups.
Several Cloverdalians let me know I’d forgotten their lovely hamlet, and mea culpa, I did.
You’ll have to head up today, or just put it on your list for the future because these Cloverdale restaurants are closed Monday.
At Trading Post, — a destination in itself — Chef Erik Johnson has come up with a $39 prix fixe menu that includes beet vichyssoise with sourdough furikake and citrus creme fraiche, grilled Marin Sun Farms lamb shoulder and a rustic apple tart with Ras al Hanout and cultured cream.
Piacere Italiano Steak and Seafood (504 N. Cloverdale Blvd.) is doing a four-course dinner with plenty of choices — shitake mushroom ravioli, steamed clams, jumbo prawns, a New York steak and homemade tiramisu for dessert.
KS Tian Yuen in Cloverdale (which just opened an outpost in Windsor) does a pan-Asian menu for $19 with unagi nigiri, pot stickers, cashew nut chicken with rice, a choice of several rolls and deep fried ice cream or cheesecake.
A cheese plate featuring (from left to right) Pennyroyal Farm Bollie’s Mollies, Amexia D’Elvas Convento de Serra natural preserved plums, Bleating Heart Cheese Fat Bottom Girl, raw local almonds, and Point Reyes Cheese Company Gouda, aged two years, assembled by cheese monger Omar Mueller of Freestone Artisan Cheese, in Freestone, California on Tuesday, November 29, 2016. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
Colette Hatch – aka Madame de Fromage – has worked as a cheesemonger at Oliver’s for more than a decade. Click through the gallery for some of her favorite local cheeses.
Madame de Fromage doesn’t take cheese lightly. Literally.
Balancing a large wooden board nearly the size of her petite torso, she’s snatching up wedges of all her favorite local cheeses from the refrigerated cases of Oliver’s Market in Windsor.
Most of us only know her by her nom de guerre, Madame de Fromage. She has worked for Oliver’s for more than a decade as cheesemonger and buyer and knows all the ins and outs of the local cheese trade. She is a tireless champion or opinionated critic of every slice that comes under her experienced nose.
The whole mass of samples is threatening to topple onto the floor as Madame — whose name is Colette Hatch — walks and talks about everything from mascarpone to mozzarella in a fast-paced, thick French accent. With Madame you either keep up or get out of the way.
Undaunted by the pile, she continues pulling cheese, looking for one particular wedge.
“The one with the bloomy rind?” she says to one of her white-coated cheese department staff, sifting through the piles of triple cream brie, Camembert, goat cheese, sheep’s milk cheese, fresh cheese, and aged cheeses. The way Hatch says it sounds more like “zee wan wis zee blumay wind.”
It’s entertaining just to watch Hatch poke deft fingers through the hundreds of varieties and pull out her favorites. We’re about to go on a tasting expedition together, with Hatch explaining some of her current favorites.
“You’ve had this one, of course,” she points to a wedge of Joe Matos St. George cheese, an aged raw cow’s milk cheese that’s been a local favorite since the family set up business in Sonoma County in 1979. It’s a nutty, hard cheese that along with Sonoma’s Vella Jack and Laura Chenel’s goat cheeses set the stage for artisan cheesemakers in the region. It’s also a familiar flavor, so she passes over it and continues the search for more obscure favorites.
In the nearly three decades since Hatch came to Sonoma County, the local cheesemaking scene has leapt into the national consciousness. First there was Chenel, who brought goat cheese to American plates from her Sonoma County dairy in the 1980s. Then came Redwood Hill Goat Cheese, Bellwether Farms, Marin French Cheese, and perhaps one of the largest success stories of all, Cowgirl Creamery — whose Red Hawk and Mt Tam are dairy darlings.
Not to mention the dozens of tiny artisan cheesemakers whose small-batch creations grace dozens of local restaurant cheeseboards.
Colette Hatch sources a broad variety of local artisan cheeses from producers in Marin, Sonoma, and Mendocino counties. (Photo by Chris Hardy)
“Cheese is very creative. Every day the cheesemaker has to worry about the milk. It’s a living thing. You have to be in touch with every element of the terroir,” Hatch says of the weather, seasons, and natural influences on sheep, goat, and cow’s milk. That’s why geographic boundaries — Marin, Sonoma, Mendocino — fall to the wayside when discussing local cheeses.
Because from Point Reyes to northern Boonville, it’s more about seasons and styles than the permeable borders between dairies. “Cheese is like wine. It changes every time it’s made. Some may change from season to season with what the animals are eating, using different cultures. You have to know your milk,” she says.
“But it’s also like a child. You have to constantly take care of it.”
What may have most defined the local cheesemaking business in the last five years, Hatch says, is a significant consolidation that brought in international ownership, something she is ambivalent about.
“When Sue and Peggy sold, I was devastated,” says Hatch of the sale of Point Reyes-based Cowgirl Creamery by founders Sue Conley and Peggy Smith to Swiss dairy processor Emmi in 2016. “We all started at the same time,” says Hatch, wistfully. Six months prior to the Cowgirl sale, local goat dairy Redwood Hill Farms sold to Emmi as well. But two years later, Hatch sees opportunity in the corporate cash infusion.
“Now there is more opportunity to make more cheese. There’s more equipment they couldn’t have bought to make cheese locally with good milk,” says Hatch, pulling out Cowgirl Creamery’s newest cheese, called Hop Along. The young, cider-washed rind is creamy and rich with a hint of tart cider flavor.
Some smaller cheesemakers have suffered as milk prices have gone up, spaces available for cheesemaking have become harder to find, and the very real challenges of artisan cheesemaking have come to light.
“Regulations are tougher, finding space is difficult, and it’s a lot of work for very little money in a very competitive market,” says Vivien Straus, the creator of the California Cheese Trail (cheesetrail.org), which promotes artisan cheesemakers and family farmers. Straus, who grew up on her family’s dairy farm in the rural Marin town of Marshall, sees hope, though. “Some will survive and some won’t. God, it’s a lot of work, but people keep trying. All the cheeses here are so different and so amazing. The whole world looks to us for our cheese.”
Along with Wisconsin and Vermont, Northern California — specifically Sonoma and Marin — are the big leagues of cheesemaking, says Keith Adams, partner and cheesemaker at Sebastopol’s Wm. Colfield Cheesemakers. “We’re persistent and we believe in what we’re doing. You have to operate at a very high level to compete with those who’ve been here a lot longer,” says Adams, who still considers himself a newcomer after two years in business.
Artisan cheesemaker Sheana Davis, whose Delice de la Vallee fresh cheese is a favorite with renowned chef Thomas Keller, agrees. “Some of the smaller producers are struggling to find a marketplace for their cheeses, based on price point, as it is hard to compete with the larger companies.”
In the end, however, places like Oliver’s and the Petaluma Market continue to be champions for local cheesemakers, offering up a wide variety of sheep, cow, goat, and even buffalo milk cheeses at a variety of prices.
“Artisan cheese is expensive, and not everyone can try it,” says Hatch, who believes that great cheese should be accessible to as many people as possible. “I look at what is most exciting,” she says of cheeses that she puts on sale at Oliver’s each month. “I want to give everyone an opportunity. I might be opinionated, but I know what I give you is the best thing for the best price.”
To learn more about all of these amazing cheeses, and for a chance to taste them all in one spot, check out the 13th Annual California Artisan Cheese Festival, March 23-24, 2019. The Festival events happen throughout Sonoma County, including Farm Tours, Seminars at the Flamingo Conference Resort and Spa, Cheese, Bites & Booze! at the Jackson Family Wines Hangar at Sonoma Jet Center, and the popular Artisan Cheese Tasting & Marketplace at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds with over 22 artisan cheesemakers under one roof!
Steve DuBois cuts hair in his one seat Plaza Barber shop in Healdsburg. (JOHN BURGESS / The Press Democrat)
The lone upholstered chair at the Plaza Barber Shop on Center Street in Healdsburg was occupied by a regular named Larry, who was probably exaggerating when he complained that his eyebrows were so overgrown they were interfering with his backswing.
Steve DuBois, the proprietor, trimmed the bramble-like brows of Larry while explaining to a visitor why barber shops across the republic are experiencing a boom. “Beards are back. Men’s grooming, and grooming products, have just become part of the culture. I mean, guys are getting their ears waxed.”
“I didn’t know you did ear waxing,” remarked a wiseacre waiting his turn in one of the shop’s vintage Candlestick Park folding chairs. (DuBois doesn’t. Yet.)
With their memorabilia, lather machines, and Rockwellian poles, barber shops offer both nostalgia and a hipness factor best described as “lumbersexual.” That’s helped drive a tonsorial renaissance evident around the county, but especially in Healdsburg, which supports not one, but two thriving one-chair shops.
At his eponymous operation on Healdsburg Avenue, Erik Wagner has been cutting hair for 17 years. Four years ago, he switched to an appointments-only model, giving him more control over his schedule, and allowing him “to see more of my kids’ games.”
Barbering, he notes, has provided him with more than a mere livelihood. “If I just had a desk job somewhere, I wouldn’t have the relationships that I have. I wouldn’t be so close to the community.”
Nodding in agreement was 30-something Joseph, whose neckline Wagner was cleaning up with a straight razor. He’d nodded earlier, upon first settling into the chair, when Wagner posed the eternal barber’s question: “The usual?”
Plaza Barber Shop, 319 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-433-9833, plazabarberhealdsburg.com; Erik’s Barber Shop, 433 Healdsburg Ave., #A, 707-433-7466
