Chef de cuisine Aaron Koseba harvests purple frill mustard greens from the rooftop garden at SingleThread Farms Restaurant in Healdsburg. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Kyle and Katina Connaughton of the Michelin-starred Single Thread in Healdsburg have purchased a 24-acre farm in the Dry Creek Valley with their business partner, Tony Greenberg, and Bill Price of Price Family Vineyards & Estates. The price tag: $3.72 million — something of a steal considering that the farm was originally listed at $5.5 million.
The farm site was previously home to Noci Sonoma, a luxe agricultural space with fairytale gardens, a state-of-the-art test kitchen and lounge and a membership model that drew city dwellers seeking an idyllic escape. Noci Sonoma had some early success but the owners, Chris and Aria Alpert Adjanis, struggled with permitting for large-scale events and, after recent fires and the pandemic, decided to put the property up for auction.
The Connaughtons, who currently manage a 5-acre farm in Healdsburg from which they source ingredients for Single Thread, have quietly been planning an expanded farm, gardens and educational space focused on sustainable agriculture and biodiversity. They are calling their recently purchased land their “forever home.”
“I have long had a vision to create a shared space in support of vibrant ecology on our forever home, and for that land to serve not only an agricultural purpose but a community and educational purpose as well,” Katina Connaughton said.
Katina Connaughton at her Healdsburg farm. (John Troxell)
During the pandemic and wildfires, the Connaughtons have worked closely with Price to support local nonprofits and agencies, such as the Council on Aging, Corazon Healdsburg, Farm to Pantry and Sonoma Family Meal, who are feeding residents in need. All three envision the new farm as more than just a source of produce for Single Thread. (Editor’s note: Heather Irwin is the founder of Sonoma Family Meal.)
“I want to help them (the Connaughtons) realize their larger vision of being agricultural stewards of Sonoma County and provide them with this ability and space to grow beyond what their needs are at Single Thread,” Price said.
Katina Connaughton hopes to also add a workshop component, floral design and retail sales along with mushroom production to the new farm.
“My farming team and I are excited to share our knowledge of regenerative agricultural practices with other farmers, especially new farmers starting their careers,” she said. “We envision a learning space for those who want to deepen their relationship with their food system and strengthen their craft.”
You can see a video of the property and pictures of the buildings and kitchen at 2836drycreekrd.com.
Great news! Santa Rosa finally has a sushi-go round. The bad news? You can’t actually use it or the race-car sushi track until indoor seating is allowed again. However, you can order some impressive “utility” sushi from this newcomer in the Santa Rosa Junior College neighborhood. By “utility,” I mean Wednesday afternoon California rolls, veggie tempura and tonkatsu ramen with a girlfriend rather than Friday night, once-in-a-blue-moon break-the-bank sushi with Daiginjo sake. In my world, both are equally important. Ippinn Sushi is a sister restaurant to the nearby Ippin Udon. 1985 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-800-7699, ippinnsushi.com.
Mateo’s Cocina Latina
It’s been years since I’ve whiled away an afternoon drinking margaritas in Healdsburg. OK, maybe weeks, but it’s worth checking out Mateo’s back patio for fresh fruit margaritas and luxe dishes including pork belly with a honey serrano glaze ($11.75) or a high-end nacho platter with duck, fresh tostadas, shredded jack cheese, seasonal salsa and house-cured jalapeños. Chef Mateo Granados uses lots of locally sourced ingredients, and his Yucatan-inspired dishes raise the bar on Mexican cuisine in Sonoma County. 214 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-433-1520, mateoscocinalatina.com.
Gnudi with butternut squash and sage at Grata Restaurant in Windsor. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
We drank wine. We gossiped. We shared dishes. We watched the sun set. We ate way too much. And most importantly, we laughed and laughed and laughed.
That’s exactly the idea behind Grata just off the Windsor Town Square. With a large outdoor patio, chef-owners Eric and Christina Foster wanted a festive local gathering spot with family-friendly, approachable Italian classics and a convivial atmosphere. Done and done.
A longtime chef for Stark Reality Restaurants group, Eric Foster is no stranger to bustling, high-volume restaurants and knows how to get out orders quickly and efficiently with minimal staff, something most first-time restaurateurs struggle to master. Foster also knows plenty about creating bold flavors, like his meaty sea scallops with sweet-sour apple agrodolce and chive sweet potatoes.
At Grata, you can go simple by sticking to hearty appetizers like the creamy Grata Burrata ($12) with a smear of preserved lemon honey, pesto, teardrop peppers and grilled bread or crispy arancini with marinara sauce ($11). Or you can dive into comfort carbs that include smoked salmon carbonara ($22) and a hearty risotto with Parmesan stock and grilled maitake mushrooms ($19). If you’re feeling extra hungry, Grata’s change up seasonally, including wine-braised beef short rib ($28) with creamy polenta and halibut piccata with lemon and white wine ($24).
Our three favorite dishes, however, were Shawnees Shrimp Diavolo ($24), Ricotta Gnudi ($19) and the ridiculously decadent Ricotta Zeppoli ($9).
Unlike most spicy shrimp dishes, this diavolo isn’t as much about heat as it is about full-flavored marinated shrimp with a deep flavor of tart tomato conserva and olive oil atop spaghetti noodles.
Ricotta gnudi ($19, and yes, it’s pronounced “nudie”) could be a wallflower of a dish, but in Foster’s hands it becomes the belle of the ball with brown butter-soaked ricotta dumplings, seasonal butternut squash, hazelnuts and basil. It’s definitely worth going back for, along with the warm ricotta donut holes served with a Nutella chocolate dip so delicious you’ll wish you were a kid again just so you could lick the bowl.
Grata’s lunch menu features many of the same appetizers as dinner, along with oysters, a chicken Parmesan sandwich and the ridiculously delicious-sounding PBLT, a pork belly, butter lettuce, tomato and Calabrian chili aioli sandwich ($13).
Lunch and dinner, 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Thursday through Monday. 186 Windsor River Road, Windsor, 707-620-0508, gratawindsor.com.
It was sad news for Sonoma shoppers when Artefact Design and Salvage permanently closed their storefront in August after 17 years at Cornerstone Sonoma. The store housed a unique collection of new, salvaged, rare, exquisite and weird design items. Where would we now find decorative blobs of glass and gnarled tree branches to hang on a wall, or a giant chair made from teak root?
But in late October, Artefact proprietor and curator, David Allen, announced on social media that a new store was popping up. The business opened a week later on Sonoma’s Fremont Avenue.
On display at this new more intimate space are Allen’s patented ARTEFACTcurator Wall Mounts — wall panels studded with brass screws that can hold decorative pieces like branches, flowers, vases and framed art. Wool blankets from Spain, cork purses, air plants and staghorn ferns are also available.
Allen’s new pop-up store should not disappoint those in search of the big, bold and eccentric. The entrance is flanked with terracotta heads of Bacchus and Maenad, which were previously perched on the roof of the Vanderbuilt Hotel in New York City. The heads were removed from the hotel due to safety concerns, and Allen saw to it that they made their way across the country. Outside the store, a yard houses oversized pieces like the decorative top of a massive column and a giant limestone seal from Philadelphia. Allen travels the US by truck in search of rare finds—Pennsylvania has become one of his favorite places for old architectural pieces that become available during demolitions.
If you’re not in the market for giant finds, there’s lots of little things to love at the Artefact pop-up store, and gifts items will be making an appearance before the holidays.
Speaking of holidays, it will be interesting to see what will become of the three hundred plastic snowmen that Allen would arrange in creative formations at Cornerstone Sonoma each year. Judging by the surprise element in his design and curation choices, we’re guessing (hoping) Allen will drop more zany decorative fun.
Artefact Design and Salvage, 27 Fremont Drive, Sonoma, 707-933-0660, artefactdesignsalvage.com, Open Wednesday through Sunday 12 p.m. – 6 p.m.
Inflatable ghosts and pumpkins have just been packed away, which, pre-pandemic, would signal it’s time to think turkey and gatherings. But since medical advice is to keep gatherings virtual or very small this year, now could be a good time to focus on early holiday shopping instead. By starting your holiday shopping early, you’ll have more time to ship gifts to family and friends and local businesses will appreciate an early kick-off to the holidays.
The Barlow in Sebastopol offers a range of options for the savvy holiday shopper. The former apple cannery now houses workshop and retail spaces where talented makers produce and sell their unique wares. Visitors to The Barlow can also enjoy drinks and bites from tasting rooms and restaurants. If you prefer to shop online, that can be done, too.
Click through the above gallery for some locally-made or designed gifts we found at The Barlow that are so cozy and “so Sonoma.”
Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat A bee collects nectar from a flower at Monte-Bellaria di California in Sebastopol. The farm’s lavender honey was made into a Gravenstein Honey Cider for the Gravenstein Apple Fair.
If you’re feeling a little frazzled, reaching for a sachet of lavender might be a good idea, according to science. A study published in 2018 found that sniffing linalool, an alcohol component of lavender odor, had a similar effect to popping a Valium. But stressful times may sometimes require stronger remedies. We found one in Sonoma’s West County.
Monte-Bellaria, a nine-acre farm in Sebastopol, offers visitors an opportunity to breathe fresh fall air and soothing lavender — replacing sniffing sachets with a more immersive experience. “Monte Bellaria” means “mountain of beautiful air” in Italian and the bucolic hillside property lives up to its name. Even as the lavender fields shift in color from purple to brown in fall, the landscape remains beautiful and fragrant.
“When we trim back for the fall, the essential oil is very present,” said Dr. Bill MacElroy, founder of Monte-Bellaria.
MacElroy, a statistician and former product development lecturer at UC Berkeley, MIT, Penn State, University of San Francisco and Notre Dame, experimented with different types of lavender before settling on the fragrant and hardy Grosso variety that makes up most of the property’s 35,000 plants. He was recently awarded a silver medal by the international judging association Lavender Sommelier.
After the lavender is harvested between July and the first rains, MacElroy gets to work distilling and infusing the essential oil into products which are sold until supplies run out. The farm also cultivates olives and does beekeeping — its products make for perfect holiday gifts. The Monte-Bellaria moisturizing balm, for example, combines beeswax, olive oil and lavender. Hydrosols offer a sweet spritz of lavender to linens and laundered clothing. The farm’s olive oils are grassy and peppery, and the lavender-infused honey has fantastic flavor and consistency. An added bonus: the shopping experience is far more blissful than a visit to the mall.
Resident beekeeper Eric Sias manages the Monte-Bellaria fields and leads farm tours and gives informative workshops. In a recent class on propagation, he talked about the idiosyncrasies of Grosso lavender, saying it’s the kind of plant you should “forget to water and then overwater.”
Testing, measuring and tweaking for improvement is a central part of the process at Monte-Bellaria. The farm recently troubleshooted an erosion problem by creating a drainage system that routes rainwater down the hill and into a creek that runs under the property’s footbridge and into the forest. Combining a scientific approach with creativity seems to be the secret to the farm’s success — that, and the beauty of the property.
Open weekends 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., Monte-Bellaria di California, 3518 Bloomfield Rd, Sebastopol, 707-829-2645, monte-bellaria.com
Vintners Inn in Santa Rosa is offering outdoor weddings for small, intimate weddings. (Vintners Inn)
As most brides and grooms will attest, planning a wedding can be quite a stressful endeavor. That’s perhaps even more true with the current restrictions on gatherings during the coronavirus pandemic.
“We have five different plans,” said Samantha Sasser, who anticipates tying the knot in July of 2021. “We just really adjusted our expectations.”
Sasser and her fiancé, of Rohnert Park, are just one of many couples whose plans have been affected by the pandemic. State and local health guidelines allow for weddings to continue for now but with detailed cleaning and social distancing protocols that must be implemented.
The state of California currently doesn’t allow wedding receptions or parties, only ceremonies. Sonoma County has determined that indoor venues can only operate at 25% capacity or 100 people, whichever is fewer, and that outdoor venues must have six feet of distance between people, which limits guest lists.
Rescheduling weddings
Emily Hax, of the venue Green Acres Petaluma, is doing her best to accommodate couples whose weddings were canceled in 2020 by scheduling them for 2021.
Hax said although Green Acres has plenty of outdoor space, she has decided to limit capacity for weddings in 2021.
While Hax said it’s hard to make these adjustments, especially as she’s losing income for the venue, she thinks it’s worth it in the long run.
“We’re doing this for the greater good. We’re trying to stop it (COVID-19) so we can go back to normal, faster,” Hax said. “Not only do you have the parents and the couple to be wed, but all the vendors that come, you have to count those people as well. It’s a little tricky and it’s pretty devastating for these couples.”
Like Green Acres, many wedding venues in Sonoma County are playing things by ear for the coming months and for 2021, while some are finding new ways to host couples and their immediate families.
Micro-weddings and livestreams
The Luther Burbank Center (LBC) in Santa Rosa normally hosts hundreds of wedding guests in its multiple indoor and outdoor venues every year. Adjusting to the coronavirus pandemic, the music center is now taking advantage of its newly renovated plaza, which is “perfect” for COVID-safe “micro-weddings,” according to Sari Feinstein, programming manager for LBC.
“With the changes and our complete new direction with COVID-19, we have been really grateful to our community and our partners that have all gotten creative and sat around a table — a virtual table — and discussed how we can still be that community gathering place, how we can bring joy in a time that really needs it,” Feinstein said.
The center, which now has a wedding guest limit of 12 people, including the couple, has partnered with staging professionals and videographers who can help couples film their weddings for livestreams on Facebook, Zoom and other platforms.
Other outdoor venues, like the Vintners Resort in Santa Rosa, are taking advantage of their extra space by separating family groups and separating dining tables by six feet. Still, wedding staples like dancing and gathering in groups are prohibited at these venues, and guests need to wear face masks unless they’re eating or seated at a distance.
The Kenwood Inn, in the Sonoma Valley, is solely offering their “Elopement package,” which includes a wedding planner, officiant and space for up to six people.
“We have done several of these since … restrictions have been in place, and they have worked quite well,” said Sharon Rooney, director of public relations for the inn.
These micro-weddings and intimate ceremonies are gaining popularity. While the trend started as a response to pandemic restrictions, many couples and families have found ease and comfort in these simpler, low-pressure weddings.
While the future of weddings remains uncertain, Sasser said she’s prepared to be flexible while planning her 2021 ceremony at Vine Hill House in Sebastopol.
“With all of our vendors, we’ve been asking, ‘What’s your cancellation policy? Can we get a full refund?’” Sasser said. “They’ve all been really great and really flexible with offering postponements if needed.”
What will the candidates eat on election night? Chances are it will be pasta, burgers and ice cream for dessert if Biden or Trump have their way.
With plenty of fast food, carbs and comfort classics on their go-to lists, Joe Biden and Donald Trump Jr. are pretty proud of their down-to-earth cravings. Both have been criticized for their predilection for junk food and honestly, from most published reports about their favorite meals, no one is going to accuse anyone on the campaign trail of being a gourmand — with the exception of Kamala Harris, the lone foodie (and cook) in the group.
We thought it would be fun to imagine what the candidates would eat in Sonoma County and to suggest dishes you can pick up to celebrate/console yourself in honor of Trump or Biden winning on Tuesday night. In the meantime, you can grab an elephant or donkey election cookie at Costeaux French Bakery (417 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, costeaux.com) to show support for your favorite party (or eat the head off the one you don’t like).
Interesting fact: Trump and Biden are both tee-totalers, eschewing booze of any kind. Both are fans of Diet Coke. Harris loves a good glass of wine, which makes sense considering her home state is California. Pence, apparently, isn’t much of a drinker and enjoys the occasional non-alcoholic O’Douls beer.
Of course, we all love a good burger, and no one can refuse pizza and ice cream. We’re more alike than different, and good food is something we all can agree on!
All dishes are available for pickup. None of the restaurants listed here have endorsed any candidate; this is purely for fun. The list is in alphabetical order.
Vice President Joe Biden
Vice President Biden is a huge ice cream fan. (Photo: Shutterstock. Illustration, Heather Irwin)
Biden has repeatedly told reporters his favorite food is pasta, especially with red sauce. Our first choice is Campo Fina’s homemade pappardelle pasta with Liberty duck ragu, truffle bugger, leeks, sage and roasted winter squash (330 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, campofina.com). But we also love a good Bolognese meat sauce at Ca’Bianca (835 Second St., Santa Rosa, cabianca.com). Wanna go old school? Art’s Place (563 Rohnert Park Expressway, Rohnert Park, artsplacerp.weebly.com) is the home of the famous Pasta King marinara and pesto.
Ice cream is Biden’s guiltiest pleasure. He once posed for the cameras with a tasty DQ Blizzard. But why not go plant-based? The nondairy chocolate shake at Amy’s Drive Thru (58 Golf Course Dr. W, Rohnert Park) is twice as good with half the guilt. Another sweet-tooth satisfier is the creamy vanilla bean small-batch pint from Noble Folk (Santa Rosa and Healdsburg, thenoblefolk.com). Other best bets for the Democratic contender? All-American caramelized apple pie from Two Dog Night Creamery (Sebastopol and Windsor, twodognightcreamery.com) or peanut butter chip from Fru-Ta (multiple locations in Sonoma County, fru-ta.com).
Senator Kamala Harris
Kamala Harris likes fries, pasta and burritos. (Shutterstock photo illustration)
VP candidate Kamala Harris seems to be the cook in the group. She says she loves to make a good roast chicken, with beans and even French fries in duck fat (how very Californian), among other things.
Roast chicken is so boring. We think “Aunt Kamy” would go wild for Blue Ridge Kitchen’s Drunken Fried Chicken with truffle mac and cheese, bacon collard greens, Kentucky hot butter and apple honey, just to shake things up (6770 McKinley St., Sebastopol, brkitchen.com). Harris has strong feelings about a tuna melt sandwich and too much mayo, but Mac’s Deli (630 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, macsdeliandcafe.com) does it so right with a side of Kamala’s fave side dish, fries. Take it up a notch with duck fat fries with whipped ranch at Wit & Wisdom Tavern (1325 Broadway, Sonoma, witandwisdomsonoma.com).
For Kamala’s burrito habit, we’re picking Lepe’s (4323 Montgomery Drive, Santa Rosa, lepestaqueria.com) Surf and Turf with shrimp, carne asada and all the trimmings.
Vice President Pence
Vice President Pence’s favorite snack is popcorn! (Shutterstock photo. Photo Illustration Heather Irwin)
Pence is another simple eater. He loves popcorn, bacon and ice cream.
Mike’s not much of a drinker, but who can resist a little Bloody Mary-flavored popcorn from Comet Corn (cometcorn.com)? For pizza, keep it old school with a simple pepperoni pie from Homerun Pizza (484 Larkfield Center, Santa Rosa, homerunpizzalarkfield.com).
Pence is an avowed bacon man, and we think a tasty California twist on the BLT, the BLAT (with avocado and sourdough bread) might be a nice energy boost while visiting the Sonoma County Airport’s Sky Lounge (2200 Airport Blvd., Santa Rosa, santarosaskylounge.com).
President Donald J. Trump
President Trump loves well-done steaks and fast food. (Shutterstock photo. Illustration Heather Irwin)
Don’t ask the Prez if he’s a sushi fan, because the answer is a resounding no. Instead, Trump prefers his food well-cooked. He’s a fan of fast-food giants like KFC, McDonald’s, Burger King and Chik-fil-A. Here are a few local alternatives we think he might like!
The McDonald’s Filet-O-Fish is Trump’s go-to, but you haven’t had a fish sando until you’ve had the Crispy Cod Sandwich with rémoulade on a soft roll at Seafood & Eat. We think Donald might also go for a little butterscotch pudding for dessert, because who doesn’t like pudding (9238 Old Redwood Highway, Windsor)?
Make sandwiches great again with a fried chicken sandwich atBrewster’s Beer Garden with — wait for it — goat cheddar and aioli. But come on, it has bacon, too!
Or he could try steak at Valette. Snake River Farms’ beautifully marbled meat should never be cooked well-done, but hey, if that’s what Trump wants, at least it’s a darn good overcooked steak.
Whopper or Big Mac alternative: If it’s a drive-thru with a burger wrapped in paper, then In-N-Out is our choice, though Five Guys gets ’em nice and charred. We’d prefer to send him to Mike’s at the Crossroads (7667 Old Redwood Hwy, Cotati, mikesatthecrossroads.com) or Superburger (multiple locations, originalsuperburger.com), but if we’re doing a burger to remember, it has to be the California Smash Burger at Pizzando (301 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, pizzandohealdsburg.com).
And finally, chocolate cake. There’s no comparison to Sax’s Joint’s chocolate cake with caramel icing, fudge and Rolos. It’s decadent almost to a fault, but nothing this good could ever be faulted (317 Petaluma Blvd. South, Petaluma, saxsjoint.com).
Healdsburg’s Single Thread Restaurant and Farm was among five Bay Area restaurants given a 2020 “Green star” — a new category — at a virtual California Michelin Guide event this week.
The new star distinction was given to chefs who “have taken responsibility by preserving resources and embracing biodiversity, reducing food waste and reducing the consumption of non-renewable energy,” according to organizers.
Owners Kyle and Katina Connaughton of Single Thread in Healdsburg own a small farm outside the town which grows many unique varieties of produce for their three-Michelin starred restaurant.
“We are incredibly proud to receive the Green Star recognition for our sustainable practices at the farm. Our farm team works incredibly hard not only to steward the land but also to do so using sustainable agricultural practices. This distinction highlights their hard work and the commitment to these practices by the whole team,” said Kyle Connaughton.
The stars, along with several “Michelin Discovery” restaurants (none in the North Bay) were a sort of consolation after the restaurant guide decided to forgo its annual California awards for 2020 in response to the pandemic and ongoing wildfires that have devastated the state.
On Tuesday, the French tire company long known for their European restaurant recommendations hosted a Virtual Family Meal where top California chefs discussed the state of restaurants after suffering from months of closures related to Covid and how restaurants have responded as front line feeders during the pandemic.
Other Green Star award winners in the Bay Area included Michael Tusk of Quince in San Francisco, Dominique Crenn of Atelier Crenn in San Francisco, Thomas Keller of the French Laundry in Yountville and Alice Waters of Chez Panisse in Berkeley.
Michelin’s new category of inspector “discoveries” were a nod to “new and aspiring culinary talent across California” and included 25 restaurants statewide. In the Bay Area, Tony’s Seafood in Marin, Aziza in San Francisco, Tacos Oscar in Oakland, Los Carnalitos in Hayward, Brotzeit Lokal in Oakland and Selby’s in Silicon Valley were noted.
Pulled pork, chickpea meatloaf, and Philly cheesesteak pretzel bun sliders from Fourth Street Social Club in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy of Fourth Street Social Club)
Two new restaurant openings and one reopening to be excited about right now…
4th Street Social Club in downtown Santa Rosa has officially opened. The plant-forward eatery has been in development for months (and months) at the former Jade Room. 643 4th St., Santa Rosa.
“Jacked Up Popcorn Chikn” is a house favorite at Fourth Street Social Club in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy photo)Cocktail from Fourth Street Social Club in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy of Fourth Street Social Club)
The popular, family-friendly Yogurt Farms frozen yogurt and ice cream shop has reopened under new ownership. 1224 Mendocino Ave, Santa Rosa.
In Windsor, former Stark’s chef Eric Foster has opened Grata, an Italian-inspired restaurant we’re chomping to get to as soon as possible. Burrata with preserved lemon honey, fritto misto, roasted beet and butternut squash salad and ricotta gnudi have our names all over them.186 Windsor River Road, Windsor.
