Sondra Bernstein Steps Back from Girl & The Fig in Sonoma

The Girl & the Fig will be celebrating its 20th anniversary this summer. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)

In the midst of the horrifying 2017 Tubbs wildfire, restaurateur Sondra Bernstein responded swiftly, bringing food to a community in chaos. She helped San Francisco chefs organize and transport thousands of meals to Sonoma County. She made hundreds of calls to fellow chefs and fired up her own ovens. She worked tirelessly to feed those in need.

The Tubbs fire was just one chapter in Bernstein’s 23-year-career as a restaurateur, which came to a coda (though not yet a conclusion) this week.

In a message to customers on March 1, she announced she would be stepping back from the daily operations of her signature restaurants — girl & the fig, fig cafe, fig rig food truck, the NoodleSpring pop-up (currently closed), her catering company, cookbook projects and other food endeavors. Longtime business partner John Toulze will take over as managing partner.

It’s been a long ride for Bernstein, who launched her fledgling business in Glen Ellen with her brothers and 17 employees, including Toulze, in 1997. At the time, few understood the bounty available through sourcing from local farms, and few restaurants in Wine Country had become gourmet hot spots. She was a pioneer in making Sonoma a must-visit food destination for travelers around the world.

Though she didn’t mention it in her March 1 announcement, Bernstein’s departure comes a few weeks after the girl & the fig restaurant drew national attention and temporarily closed amid furor over a social media post by a former server. The server, Kimi Stout, said on Instagram she had left her job at the restaurant after being told she could no longer wear a Black Lives Matter face covering. The posting sparked a heated debate that drew both anger at and support for Bernstein, Toulze and their staff.

Bernstein, now in her early 60s, said a change in leadership had long been in the works, but COVID-19 put a hold on plans. The restaurant opened a dining area on the Sonoma Plaza last fall, and since March 2020, girl & the fig has served more than 23,000 chef-made meals to local families and seniors facing food insecurity due to the pandemic.

Over the years, Bernstein has served as mentor to 240 staff, reveled in her incomparable Rhone wine selection, launched a podcast and founded the Sonoma FIG Foundation, a nonprofit dedicated to helping aspiring entrepreneurs in farming, food and wine. She will continue to manage the foundation.

The controversy last month may not be the bookend Sondra anticipated at girl & the fig, but it will forever be part of her legacy. Let’s just remember the 23 years of great food, service and local activism that filled the rest of her long, long Sonoma story.

More dining news from Sonoma

Trio of mezze at Layla at MacArthur Place in Sonoma. Courtesy photo
Trio of mezze at Layla at MacArthur Place in Sonoma. (Courtesy photo)

Layla Reopens at MacArthur Place: After months of closure during the pandemic, Layla at MacArthur Place will reopen for outdoor dining with a new spring menu that includes herb-crusted lamb chops, cumin roasted carrots, Dungeness crab salad and pappardelle with local wild mushrooms. 29 E. MacArthur St., Sonoma, 707-938-2929, macarthurplace.com

An Abandoned Petaluma House and Adjacent Cottage Become Dream Home for Two Friends

The kitchen area at the home of Alan Good in Petaluma, Calif. on Monday, October 5, 2020. (Photo: Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)

When Karen Brown went searching for a property in Petaluma where she and a longtime friend might co-invest and coexist, there was nothing on the market that fit the bill. It was 2013, the nation was coming out of a deep recession, and the pickings were slim. So Brown walked the streets of the west side and ended up beating the bushes — literally — to find her dream home.

The lot she came across one day was so overgrown with acacia trees that she almost missed the house. But there, set on a third of an acre, behind a “no trespassing” sign, was a run-down, abandoned cottage, missing its foundation and perched up on temporary piers, with plywood nailed over the doors. Apart from a possum living in the front room, the cottage hadn’t been occupied in at least 10 years.

But the property was large enough for a second small home, and there was something about the forlorn little cottage that tugged at her heart. Brown came to call it “the little house that cried.”

“It was either going to get torn down, or somebody was going to come along at the last minute and love it,” she says. “And that’s what happened.”

Seeing potential

As the creative director of an educational nonprofit, Brown could see the possibilities. Her friend Alan Good shared her vision. “There’s an old saying about ‘location, location, location.’ That was really clear,” says Good, a horticulturist who for years managed the living roof of the California Academy of Sciences in Golden Gate Park. “West Petaluma is a wonderful place to live, and the Oak Hill-Brewster neighborhood is one of the nicer parts of Petaluma.”

The property wasn’t for sale. Brown managed to track down the owners, but it took seven months to finalize the deal. Then, collaborating with Petaluma architect Chris Lynch of MAD Architecture, the friends designed and built a compact accessory dwelling for Good. After that, they set to work restoring the original cottage for Brown with architect Brent Russell, starting with a new foundation.

Alan Good, left, and Karen Brown stand in the doorway of Brown’s home in Petaluma, Calif. on Monday, October 5, 2020. The two are close friends and live in separate homes on this property. (Photo: Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)
Alan Good, left, and Karen Brown stand in the doorway of Brown’s home in Petaluma. (Erik Castro/Sonoma Magazine)
The kitchen area at the home of Alan Good in Petaluma, Calif. on Monday, October 5, 2020. (Photo: Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)
The kitchen area at the home of Alan Good in Petaluma. (Erik Castro/Sonoma Magazine)

Seven years later, the project is a case study in contemporary downsized living. Rather than building a large home, which could have engulfed the lot, there are two simple white houses designed to fit neatly into the old neighborhood.

Brown’s home in the historic building is about 800 square feet, while Good’s new accessory dwelling is 637 square feet. For their efforts, Brown and Good were granted the highest architectural preservation award by a committee of the Petaluma Museum Association, which praised the project for its “restraint” in staying within the original building’s footprint and maintaining its simple, classic exterior details.

Living small

Brown and Good are close friends but not a couple. The plan allows them to live in community while maintaining their own spaces. Both are fans of living in smaller homes. “I think these small structures are so much in the spirit of our heritage in the area,” Brown explains. “This is all we need. We are two friends who bought the property together so we could hand pick our neighbors. And that neighborly spirit also is a part of the heritage of the area.”

There were few architectural details left in the cottage, but Brown and Good saved what they could, including the front door. In reframing the walls, they left the 2-by-2-inch redwood studs in place and added 2-by-4 pieces next to them to meet new codes.

Brown says she’s not certain when the original main house was built. Zillow says 1900. Old wallpaper that they carefully removed from the walls was backed by old newsprint that appears to be from the late 1890s. “There was one original wall left in the house. The other ones we had to replace because of energy requirements,” Brown explains. “But we bought absolutely as close to the original windows as we could get.”

Brown’s house has only one bedroom. Another room, which resembles a walk-in closet but could once have been a child’s sleeping nook, has been set up as her home office. It’s compact, but the 11-foot ceilings and an 8-foot-wide doorway give the interior a feeling of spaciousness. The kitchen was placed where there had once been an outbuilding, so it looks as if it’s always been there. And Brown added a covered porch when she learned from a neighbor that the original home once had one in front.

For his slightly smaller

home, Good also opted for subtle simplicity. He was inspired by some of the historic old ranch cottages at Olompali State Historic Park, just to the south, opting for understated rustic V-siding to fit with the style of the house.

In siting the house, Good did everything possible to preserve the valley and live oaks on the property. “One of the reasons why my house measured 8 feet from the foundation to the trunk of the nearest tree was to make sure it didn’t interrupt the oaks’ existing root zones,” he said. “It’s great. We didn’t have to remove a single tree, and my house is shaded by mature oaks on the hot and sunny west side.”

Inside, the home feels spacious, with a 17-foottall peaked roof, 10 double-hung windows, and a glass-paneled door. “I grew up in an Eichler home in Walnut Creek,” Good says. “I’m comfortable with an open plan where everything opens into one room. And I like lots of light.” In the ceiling, cedar beams support unpainted construction-grade plywood,

with industrial galvanized tie rods instead of wood beams. Outside, a new garage, which they were required to add, is now used by Good as an art studio.

The little compound is working well for the friends. They have a 25-by-65-foot vegetable garden, fruit trees, and laying hens. “We couldn’t have imagined something like Covid,” Brown says, but given the challenge of living through the pandemic, the shared property is perfect. “We’re separate enough that we each have our own homes, but we trust each other, and we’re close enough that we can help each other out. We can socialize and we have a friend.”


RESOURCES

Architect, Good’s home: Chris Lynch MAD Architecture, madarc.com

Architect, Brown’s home: Brent Russell, 707-769-0535

Builder: Scott C. Shelley Construction, scottcshelleyconstruction.com

Glen Ellen Garden Offers an Exhilarating Hike Among Exotic Plants

Magnolia Wilsonii at Quarryhill Botanical Garden in Glen Ellen. (Cece Hugo)

With all there is to love about Sonoma spring — the greening of vineyards and all those wildflowers —you might miss the gravel path less traveled at Quarryhill Botanical Garden. The former quarry turned world-renowned Asian woodland garden is home to several thousands of exotic plants, some of them critically endangered.

Spring highlights include showy camellias — “hummingbird magnets,” as Quarryhill’s new executive director, Scot Medbury calls them. The camellias’ bright colors inspire a fierce rivalry among male hummingbirds, who dive and swoop to get to the flowers.

And when the garden’s many deciduous magnolias bloom on bare branches in spring, “it’s an arresting sight that kind of floors you,” says Medbury. The rare, bone white Yulan magnolia, which flowers all year long, “would look at home in the hands of Aphrodite,” he explains lyrically.

Magnolia Stellata at Quarryhill Botanical Garden. (Mark Hullinger)
Magnolia Stellata at Quarryhill Botanical Garden. (Mark Hullinger)

This collection exists as a modern- day ark of conservation, thanks to 15 seed-gathering expeditions to East Asia since the 1990’s, funded by the garden’s late founder, Jane Davenport Jansen. Visitors wind their way through 25 acres of wild shrubs and trees, with ponds, hilltop views, and Tibetan prayer flags to happen upon.

After the rains, ponds swell and water rushes from a couple of mini falls. This year’s drier weather has so far reduced their flow; the babbling brooks are giving off more of a murmur. But the space still enchants with its picturesque foot bridges, rock walls, and resident snowy egret and ducks.

Around Sonoma With Winemaker Katie Bundschu

Growing up, sixth-generation vintner and all-around adventurer Katie Bundschu loved working alongside her dad at her family’s Sonoma winery, Gundlach Bundschu. Her dad gave Katie her own short row of vines to care for; they dubbed them “Katie’s Vines.”

These days, Bundschu has a bigger project of her own, the newly launched Abbot’s Passage Winery and Mercantile in Glen Ellen, which features Bundschu’s blended wines alongside a chic collection of home goods and accessories from local, women-owned businesses. Bundschu is aiming for a relaxed, casual wine experience with tasting spots nestled right among the vineyards, as well as outdoor group games like shuffleboard. It all has a bit of a tailgating spirit, which seems right from a vintner who also has an MBA in sports marketing. And the wines are top-notch. “I get to be a little more playful and adventurous by co-fermenting different varietals together,” she says, “whether it’s Chenin Blanc and Verdejo, or Syrah and Viognier, or the Grenache-Syrah-Mourvedre.”

Just east toward Sonoma are “to die for” croissants and cappuccinos from local favorite BAKER & COOK. 18812 Highway 12, Sonoma, 707-938-7329, bakerandcooksonoma.com

Bundschu’s cocktail of choice is a Hawaiian saltedplum margarita called the Li Hing Margarita from the popular STARLING BAR SONOMA. Madcap late-night rounds of Uno and bingo are a bonus. 19380 Highway 12, Sonoma, 707-938-7442, starlingsonoma.com

Her favorite coastal getaway is DILLON BEACH, where she brings her dog Bacchus for a romp. 1 Beach Ave., Dillon Beach, dillonbeachresort.com

Bundschu is inspired by the vast inventory at SIGN OF THE BEAR KITCHENWARE on Sonoma Plaza. “You feel like you could be the best chef ever when you walk in there — ‘I can do all of these things,’” she jokes. 435 First St. W, Sonoma, 707-996-3722, signofthebear.com

For an ideal visit to ABBOT’S PASSAGE, Bundschu says, “First,
I’d have a glass of wine and I’d order a grazing board, with charcuterie, cheese, dips, dried fruit, nuts, and fresh bread. And then I’d shop and buy a hat, and maybe pick up some earrings or a necklace.” 777 Madrone Road, Glen Ellen, 707-939-3017, abbotspassage.com

The Most Beautiful Wineries in Napa Valley

Napa Valley is home to more than 400 wineries, and every one of them has a way of turning heads. From sweeping vineyard views and lush gardens to stunning tasting spaces and towering castles, picking the most beautiful wineries in Napa Valley is next to impossible. For a taste of some of the standouts, click through the gallery above. Did we miss one of your favorites? Let us know in the comments below.

14 of the Most Instagrammable Wineries in Sonoma County

Any true wine-lover will tell you that it’s what’s inside the bottle that counts. But let’s be honest — a pretty picture of a glass of Sonoma wine on your Instagram can create quite a buzz too. Whether you live in Sonoma County, or you’re planning a visit, we’ve got you covered with Instagram-worthy wineries and tasting rooms. Click through the gallery above for photos and info.

What’s your favorite Sonoma County winery location to photograph? We want to hear it! Find us at @SonomaMag on Instagram, or tag us #SonomaMagazine.

The Best Family-Friendly Hotels in Napa Valley

There was a time when Wine Country and kids didn’t pair well. Parents in search of a weekend getaway had to line up grandparents to hold down the fort while they were away. But, in recent years, Wine Country has had a change of tune when it comes to welcoming traveling families. Kid-friendly wineries and restaurants abound. And local hotels offer everything from safaris to robots. Click through the above gallery for Napa County properties that make it great to be a kid (and parent).

4 Dog-Friendly Parks in Sonoma County

Maggie, left, and Truckee, right run for the ball during Spring Lake Park’s Water Bark, May 11, 2012.

Many Sonoma County residents have spent more time with their pets during the pandemic. In addition to being comforting companions at home, dogs also help motivate us to get outside and get moving. A majority of Sonoma County’s regional parks welcome dogs on leashes and offer paved trails, hikes through the woods and even off-leash adventures that both Fido and you will love. Click through the gallery above for the best Sonoma County parks to bring your furry friend.

Old Petaluma Dairy Farm Becomes Idyllic Country Home

When Cathy Henning got the call from a real estate agent about a small Petaluma dairy farm that had just come on the market, her first response was: Keep the news under wraps. On a lark, she and her partner John Henning been up in the area six months before, scouting out properties. But Cathy wasn’t convinced this was the right time to take the plunge. She figured what John didn’t know wouldn’t hurt either of them.

“I hung up and said, ‘John will never know about this,’” she remembers. “But then throughout the day I started feeling guilty. I thought, ‘What if I really wanted something and John kept it from me?’” So I called him and told him about it, and he said, sight unseen, ‘We’ll take it.’” That’s precisely what Cathy had been afraid of. She insisted they at least check it out. “As an omen, on the way up here his car broke down,” she says, chuckling. “I should have known then.”

What the pair didn’t anticipate was all the hours and years of work they would pour into their 50 acres, which include a 1910 farm cottage, pastures, three barns, and a picturesque white pasteurizing shed with turquoise shutters. The land posed endless possibilities for Cathy, who has gardened wherever she lived, from New York to Santa Barbara to her native Pennsylvania. And John, a retired attorney whose mother taught him how to build and fix things, relishes a good project.

John crawled on his back under the big barn— built in 1890 by a Scotsman with redwood brought down from the Russian River—to replace its foundation.

Cathy reroofed the cottage herself with steel made to look like copper. Before the couple moved up permanently from San Francisco, they had to scramble to carve out the time to work on the farm.

“I had to be at work at 6 a.m. John would be waiting for me with McDonalds in the car and we’d drive up here after work because I never knew when I was going to get out. Then we worked until 11 o’clock, I’d get in the car and go to sleep and he’d drive us home.

That’s how crazy we were,” she says.

The main home, a little white cottage, now feels like a jewel box, surrounded by two acres of English country-style gardens with topiaries, boxwood hedges, seven fountains, and statuary — most charmingly, a series of ceramic cats. Exuberant color bursts out, with hydrangeas in the shade and climbing roses in the sun.

In spring the deep red rhododendrons dazzle; in summer it’s the dahlias.

The grounds are naturally pretty without appearing too manicured, making it a sought-after backdrop for photo shoots for the likes of Pottery Barn and Williams Sonoma. One popular spot is a glass conservatory at the side of the house, where John and Cathy have coffee every morning.

Cathy was committed to keeping as many features of the old farm as possible, from a weathered tool shed, to the original pasture gate, to a chicken coop that has a locust tree pushing out of it. Mature trees, including a beloved Gravenstein apple and a Colorado blue spruce, are treated with reverence.

Most of the garden was dreamed up and planted by Cathy and two longtime caretakers. One she says is like a son to her; the other she describes as perhaps the country’s best rose man.

The garden has many distinctive spaces. There is a shady nest developed around a giant 300-pound egg-like geode Cathy brought from Wyoming. The surrounding boxwoods are trimmed into circles to mimic the geode, and nearby, a flowering maple climbs wildly up a honey locust.

The majority of the garden radiates off of a 100-foot-long lawn of pasture grass, lush in spring.

At this time of year, though, it’s as russet as the hillsides. Along one flank is a large border sizzling with Alstroemeria, ornamental grasses, Buddleia, and Kniphofia (red hot poker), along with sun-loving hydrangeas that Cathy says produce pom-poms two-thirds the size of a football.

By the barns is a field of fragrant, tall Lavender ‘Grosso.’ Cathy has also created a riot of a rose garden with 400 bushes and a hot-and-sunny upper garden she’s termed “the mesa.” In the early years, she planted a small grove of redwoods, which are now massive and shade a path leading to the pasture.

Running through the gardens is a seasonal creekbed with hand-set, flat-faced rocks that look like something you might see in the English Cotswolds.

In fact, the little farm is a Beatrix Potter illustration come to life.

Cathy laughs that friends and outsiders may wonder, “What were they thinking?” But she knows that it all feels less like work than play. 

An Oasis in The Redwoods: Peek Inside The Gonnella Family Home

Barbara Gonnella knows pretty much everyone in the small west county community of Occidental, population 1,100. She and her husband, Frank, run the Occidental Union Hotel, which has been in his family since 1925 and operates as the center of town life.

“On any normal morning, the same 15 guys are in the cafe at 6 a.m.,” Barbara says. “I really value those relationships. I’m blessed to be able to nurture that for all of these people.” Earlier this spring as business temporarily wound down in response to the coronavirus pandemic, Barbara invited people over to pick up veggies, sourdough bread, eggs and other perishables from fresh storage that would have gone to waste. And she delivered soup and pasta to her elderly neighbors around town.

Things aren’t so normal now. But even during the pandemic the Gonnellas, whose family has weathered nearly a century of ups and downs, have found a way to stay resilient. They are back in business, offering picnic-style meals and cocktails in their courtyard, as well as takeout, repurposing the old spot where the horses were tied up.

“We love sharing the goodness of the hotel. It’s fun and it’s special,” Barbara says.

French doors open up to the patio. (Rebecca Chotkowski)
Inside the Gonnella home. (Rebecca Chotkowski)

The Gonnella family home, up a country road less than a mile away, is as much of a landmark as the hotel. A former equestrian center on 6 acres, the home’s imposing stone façade tops a grassy hillside with redwoods framing the view. As newlyweds, Frank and Barbara lived nearby and walked past the property often. They fell in love with the home’s impressive stonework and the beauty of the land and trees. They bought it 35 years ago; over the decades, they have improved the house and grounds while raising their daughter, Gien, a tennis player and musician now in her 20s.

It’s a remarkable transformation, led by Barbara’s eye for design and love of European antiques and Frank’s extreme DIY skills. Basically, anything Barbara can imagine, Frank can build.

Over the years, this has included renovating the kitchen and bathrooms and laying new floors throughout the home, both oak planks and antique tiles from a monastery in Italy. Upstairs, a soaking tub now sits in the bay window that looks out over the fields and redwoods. And the kitchen’s layout leaves plenty of space for visiting with friends when the two are not busy with the business. Steak, risotto and greens are specialties, along with wine and big platters of Italian-style cured meats served by a fire. “We stretch the dinners out,” Barbara says. “Just the charcuterie can be a two-hour event.”

The home’s interiors are earthy and rustic with soft, neutral colors and plenty of contrasting textures. An antique dough bowl filled with silver ornaments lies in a deep windowsill. Large green glass wine jugs, bought from a decorator friend who sources housewares in Eastern Europe, are tucked atop cabinets.

“I love stone and crystal,” Barbara says. “A little bit of shine with the rustic.”

A massive two-story fieldstone fireplace anchors the great room, flanked by a pair of deep French-country couches bought secondhand. The mantelpiece is home to a collage of chunky beeswax candles Barbara bought 30 years ago from a small shop in Santa Rosa.

Another fireplace, this one with a wood mantel carved with the Gonnella family name, is adjacent to the kitchen opposite deep bookshelves for Barbara’s cookbooks. On the walls are family photos as well as mementos from celebrated environmental artists Christo and Jeanne-Claude. Barbara’s father, rancher Ed Pozzi, worked with the artists on their seminal work, “Running Fence,” which stretched across rural parts of Sonoma and Marin counties in the 1970s.

A recycled lantern in the redwood grove. (Rebecca Chotkowski)
Frank spent years on landscape improvements to both front and back, including new stone walls and boxwood hedges. (Rebecca Chotkowski)
Barbara celebrates the seasons in collections of potted olive trees in rustic stone urns. (Rebecca Chotkowski)

Outside, a pool and broad brick patio fill out the backyard, while in the front, stone walls Frank built surround a garden and cafe tables. Low boxwood hedges and fig and olive trees bring in more greenery. A short walk down the hill, there’s a stunning natural amphitheater of redwoods tucked into the slope.

Two decades ago, as their young daughter was starting piano lessons, Barbara had a vision of hosting outdoor recitals for friends in the redwood grove. Frank brought this to life with hand-built benches stepping up the hillside and a stage large enough for Gien’s grand piano. Whimsical recycled metal lanterns left over from a party hang in the grove year-round to accent the magical spot.

To make the most of the surrounding nature, Frank used his tractor to shape small footpaths through the woods and fields. “He begged for years to get that tractor,” Barbara jokes. Frank also built several large redwood farm tables to use outdoors with slabs hand-milled from trees that have come down around the property. And early in their marriage, the couple planted dozens of baby redwoods in one-gallon pots — trees that now stretch three stories tall along the fence line they share with their neighbor.

The demands of their business mean Frank and Barbara’s days together at home are concentrated in the gaps between restaurant service. Barbara likes to zip back up the hill to garden and relax for a few treasured hours in the mid-afternoon. Frank, a golfer, will chip some balls, and together they’ll power-walk the steep hills and forest paths for fresh air. “A big part of my day is catching a hill. I tell people, ‘Stop in and we’ll walk the loop together,’” Barbara says.

Rosemary and potted olive trees dot the property. The forget-me-nots and wisteria of spring give way to roses and long summer days spent around the pool.

Frank and Barbara Gonnella and their daughter, Gien. (Rebecca Chotkowski)
A lounge chair by the pool. (Rebecca Chotkowski)

“We’ll take a moment to put our feet in the water between the lunch and dinner shift,” Barbara says. Holidays like Mother’s Day and graduations are big at home and at the restaurant. Barbara likes to give mothers small cuttings of the hundred-year-old rose growing in the restaurant courtyard as a way to mark the day.

The rose cuttings are another small way of celebrating the community where generations of Gonnellas have lived their lives and raised their families.

“My life is within this 1-mile radius,” Barbara says. “But we cherish all aspects of that mile, of being up here. It’s rich — we are so fulfilled.”