A Gardener’s Dream Home in Petaluma

Nestled in the tawny-hued Petaluma hills, at the end of an unassuming dirt road, sit the 1870s farmhouse and lush gardens of Andy and Rachel Berliner. While their names may not be instantly recognizable, their company certainly is. Andy and Rachel are the cofounders and owners of Amy’s Kitchen, the Petaluma-based organic foods company which employs over 1,000 people in the county.

The couple have lived in the home for decades and raised their daughter Amy there (the business is named for her). As their family — and their business — has grown, so has the garden. But despite the changes over the years, Rachel Berliner says the garden’s focus remains on family. In its simple, unfussy design, she says the flower-filled garden feels accessible and welcoming, enveloping visitors like a hug.

When they first moved in, Rachel knew little about gardening. She quickly embraced the effort to transform the land, doing most of the gardening work herself and developing the lower, more cottage-like area of the property (a family friend, Ann Kahn, designed the more formal back garden). Later, Rachel says, an injury forced her to relinquish some control: “I had to step back and appreciate other people’s work.” Olivia Trombino, whom Rachel fondly calls her fairy gardener, now takes care of the family’s vegetable garden and potted plants.

The Berliners planned their Petaluma garden to provide food, water, and shelter for local wildlife, including Anna’s hummingbirds. (Rebecca Gosselin)
The Berliners planned their Petaluma garden to provide food, water, and shelter for local wildlife, including Anna’s hummingbirds. (Rebecca Gosselin)
Bosc pears are just one of dozens of edible crops in the garden that mature by summer. (Rebecca Gosselin)

In early summer, the garden bursts with color and motion. “I love the way a perennial garden moves through the seasons,” Rachel says. Things start gently in April and May, with soft, muted tones as tall columbines start peeking out. Then, as full summer hits, there’s a transition to more bold colors: the yellows, purples, and oranges of zinnias, roses, salvias, and dahlias. It’s a superb contrast to the surrounding sun-parched hills — a mix of textures and colors that Rachel says brings her family joy: “Flowers really uplift your soul and are a gift you can give to people, just like how we give people a nourishing meal.”

The Berliners say their garden connects their family to their customers in a very tangible way. Nearly every flower pictured on the packaging for Amy’s Kitchen products comes straight from the Berliner garden. “I try to invite people into my home by using the flowers from my garden on the packaging… It’s important to me that the people who eat our food have some personal connection with us, because we really do care and want to cook for them.” On a day when they’re photographing food for packaging, Rachel will grab a basket and head out into the garden at 7 a.m. to pick an array of flowers to complement the food. She then heads to the photo studio and sorts the blossoms by color. “It’s been that way for 30 years,” Andy explains proudly.

As strict vegetarians, Rachel and Andy appreciate that the garden gives them easy access to home-grown vegetables. Soon there will be basil (lots and lots of it!), lettuce, arugula, and tomatoes. “We eat greens for months, and I like to go out before dinner and pick the vegetables I’ll use,” says Rachel. “I love making soups and salads from what I just harvested.”

The Berliners garden sustainably, in balance with the surrounding wildlife. There’s something for everyone — bees, butterflies, even the local deer and turkeys, who often hang out among the native plants.

The couple also enjoys the huge variety of bird life, including hummingbirds, orioles, goldfinches, woodpeckers, horned owls, and bluebirds. Andy jokes that the pool is one of the best spots for bird-watching, as the birds don’t seem to know he’s there. Rachel, also a swimmer, jokes, “I always keep my binoculars near me — not in the pool, of course.”

The couple has come to realize that living in the country so close to nature involves surrendering some degree of control. Sneaky turkeys, troublemaking racoons, and destructive voles and gophers come with the territory. “A garden really does its own unfolding,” Rachel explains. “And even if you lose parts of it, there is always something beautiful happening. That’s just country living.”

In the Petaluma garden of Andy and Rachel Berliner. (Rebecca Gosselin)
In the Petaluma garden of Andy and Rachel Berliner. (Rebecca Gosselin)

The Berliners say the choices they make for their Petaluma garden are based on the ethos of community. “We really like to support and buy plants and materials from local businesses,” explains Rachel. Their family’s favorite small, independent nurseries and garden centers include:

The Retail Nursery at Emerisa Gardens 555 Irwin Lane, Santa Rosa 707-525-9644 emerisa.com

King’s Nursery, 1212 13th St., Santa Rosa, 707-542-4782, kingsflowernursery.com

Landscapes Unlimited, 4330 Bodega Ave., Petaluma, 707-778-0136, lunpetaluma.com

West Marin Compost, 5575 Nicasio Valley Road, Nicasio, 415-662-9849, westmarincompost.org

Cottage Gardens of Petaluma, 3995 Emerald Drive, Petaluma, 707-778-8025, cottagegardensofpet.com

Sonoma Restaurant Faves Inspired By the Kentucky Derby

Pimento Burger: Inspired by a favorite Southern treat, pimento cheese is made with peppers and (usually) cream cheese, cheddar and spices. This version has local peppers and chili with white cheddar. Gravenstein Grill is at 8050 Bodega Ave., Sebastopol. (Courtesy photo)

And…they’re off!

The annual Kentucky Derby is something of a religion in the Blue  Grass State. Ponies run, ladies wear fancy hats and everyone cools off with a Mint Julep. Maybe that’s a bit simplistic, but it’s all about turning out in your best as jockeys race for the roses on the first Saturday of May.

You can watch the fun from Churchill Downs from 2:30 to 7:30 p.m. ET (11:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. California time) on NBC. Coverage is also available to stream live on NBCSports.com and on the NBC Sports app.

Californians aren’t much for Kentucky fare usually, but we’ve got a few suggestions of the Southern persuasion to inspire your Derby Day!

15 Sonoma Brunch Spots for Mother’s Day

Seeing mom in person this year — not to mention taking her out farther than the front door — is going to be extra special. Restaurants and food purveyors are preparing for what will resemble a sort of grand coming-out party for small family groups after a year of hibernation.

Chances are things will be pretty crowded on Sunday, May 9 (mark you calendar), so be sure to make a reservation or have a backup plan.

Here are some of our favorite ideas for mom.

Barndiva: Prix fixe menu ($95) includes chilled asparagus soup, tuna niçoise tartine, five-spice duck confit hash, crab and mascarpone stuffed crepes, buttermilk honey Génoise cake. 231 Center St., Healdsburg, barndiva.com

Charlie’s at the Windsor Golf Club: Head for brunch on (or at least overlooking) the green at this well-kept-secret spot. 1340 19th Hole Drive, Windsor, 707-838-8802, windsorgolf.com

Cookie Take A Bite: Deluxe Mother’s Day tin includes award-winning Lemon Moon, decadent Triple Chocolate Threat, Zesty Tea Cookie and Decorated Brown Sugar Hearts. Order at cookietakeabite.com.

Depot Hotel: Watermelon carpaccio with feta cheese and mint, beef short rib hash, Dungeness crab cannelloni, chicken vol-au-vent, eggplant lasagna, tiramisu, limoncello cake and sour cream cheesecake. $65 per person. 241 First St., Sonoma, 707-938-2980, depotsonoma.com

Down to Earth Café: Sparkling wine plus three-course prix fixe menu that includes strawberry salad, pickled beet and wild arugula salad, Dungeness crab Louie lettuce cups, pulled Liberty Duck sliders, seared wagyu rib-eye steak, grilled cauliflower steak, king salmon, short ribs, butterscotch pudding or lemon meringue pie. $60 per person. 8204 Old Redwood Hwy, Cotati, 707-753-4925, dtecafe.com

Heirloom Café: Brunch from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. includes a portobello Benedict, seared salmon, pork schnitzel, ahi tuna poke, strawberry shortcake and bottomless mimosas. 11000 Valley House Drive, Rohnert Park, 707-665-0260, sallytomatoes.com

John Ash and Co.: A la carte menu with French onion soup, Monte Cristo egg rolls, Dungeness crab and mango salad, Bananas Foster challah French toast, vegetable frittata, country-fried New York steak, duck confit hash, fried chicken and lamb chops. 4350 Barnes Road, Santa Rosa, vintnersresort.com

Mateo’s Cocina Latina: Simple, but elegant three-course menu with baby Oregon shrimp taco, choice of roasted chicken salad or smoked salmon with Hollandaise and pan perdu with cinnamon walnut bread for dessert. $38 per person, 214 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-433-1520, mateoscocinalatina.com

McNear’s: A la carte brunch with classic Benedicts, fried chicken and biscuits and omelets. 23 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-765-2121, mcnears.com

Notre Vue Estate and Valette: Mother’s Day brunch and wine pairing at the winery, with views of vineyards and the lake. The menu includes an Organic Salad with Spiced Sunflower Seeds and Yuzu Vinaigrette with the 2019 Notre Vue Sparkling Rosé of GSM; Olive Oil Poached Ora King Salmon with Toasted Farro, Pickled Onion and Whole Grain Mustard Vinaigrette with the 2019 Notre Vue Chardonnay and It’s Not A Snickers Bar Cocoa Nib Tuile with Peanut Powder Sea Salt-infused Caramel with the 2019 Balverne Pinot Noir, $75 per person. Reserve at 707-433-4050 or info@notrevueestate.com. 11010 Estate Lane.

Penngrove Market: Order dinner to go so Mom can take a break. Roast beef, whipped potatoes, herb focaccia and beet salad with triple chocolate cake. 10070 Main St., Penngrove, 707-753-4974, penngrovemarket.com

Rocker Oysterfeller’s: Farm-to-table soul food in lovely Valley Ford. No reservations, brunch specials from 10 a.m. until sold out. 14415 Hwy 1, Valley Ford, rockeroysterfellers.com
 
Seared: A la carte brunch items such as chicken and waffles with hot sauce, Dungeness crab Benedict, short rib hash, polenta with spring vegetables and mom-friendly cocktails like the Strawberry Frosé, Ramos Fizz or smoked Bloody Mary. 170 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-762-5997, petalumaseared.com Is this a special Mother’s Day menu? Chicken and waffles, crab Benedict others aren’t on their online menu.

Spoonbar: Bottomless Bellinis and mimosas ($25) and an a la carte menu with yellowfin tuna sashimi, Kobe smash burger, herb roasted scallops, pan perdu (French toast) and surf and turf with New York strip steak and Maine lobster. 219 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-433-7222, spoonbar.com

Tips Roadside: Bottomless brunch is $55 per person and includes garden salad and yogurt parfait, smoked ham, fried chicken, shrimp and grits, scrambled eggs, biscuits, bacon, potato salad and beignets with Meyer lemon sauce. 8445 Sonoma Hwy, Kenwood, 707-509-0078, tipsroadside.com

Local Hotel Named Among ‘Best New Hotels in The World’

A guest room at Montage Healdsburg. (Montage Healdsburg)

Travel + Leisure magazine just released its 16th annual “It List,” a selection of the top new hotels in the world. Among the 70 properties to be recognized this year is Montage Healdsburg, a luxury resort that opened in December of last year.

“Sonoma County’s most significant hotel opening in years faithfully embodies the area’s unspoiled, agricultural setting,” said Travel + Leisure about the Healdsburg property.

Montage Healdsburg is set on 258 acres of oak woodland and vineyards. The property includes a main lodge and 130 bungalow-style guest suites designed to blend with the surrounding landscape. The elevated bungalows come with stone and wood flooring, airy decks and spacious patios with stone fire pits. Most rooms have outdoor showers. Room rates range from $695 to $1,695 per night; the presidential suite, which spans more than 4,600 square feet, is $10,000 a night.

The resort grounds include pathways lined by lavender and gardenia and lawns spaced among the vineyards. Winemaker Jesse Katz of Aperture Estate in Healdsburg designed the hotel’s vineyard and will use grapes from the property to make estate wines. The resort also has partnered with Sonoma County Bee Company, which will manage the resort’s five-hive apiary and use honey and wax to craft custom products for the onsite spa.

The Montage property also is home to Hazel Hill, a “terroir-to-table” restaurant that overlooks vineyards and hundreds of acres of undeveloped land. Its Olive Terrace, with fire pits and cozy rocking chairs, is a popular spot for cocktails with a view.

“Stepping onto the Montage Resort’s sweeping patio perched high above the Alexander Valley is a jaw-dropping, showstopping adventure that requires at least one oooh and ahhhh no matter how fancy you are,” said dining editor Heather Irwin in a recent review.

Click through the above gallery for a peek at the world-class hotel.

The 50 Best Things to Eat in Sonoma County

The Butcher Burger with house American, cheddar and jack cheese, iceberg lettuce, smoked ‘n’ grilled onions and pickles from the Butcher Crown Roadhouse in Petaluma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

There’s no road map to what makes a dish iconic. Instead, it’s a roughly sketched record of personal experiences, memorable moments, and collective consent. We worked as a team to hash out these winners, striving to represent the people, the land, the ingredients, and the point of view of our foodie paradise. At times, a truly outstanding pick came from little more than a gut feeling. Take that humble fried chicken sandwich, for example. Folks make them all over, but Belfare Sonoma’s super-snappy, wolf-it-down-fast version, enjoyed with a glass of rosé along the side of the highway outside the Three Fat Guys tasting room— that’s true Sonoma style.

By Heather Irwin, Michele Anna Jordan, Abigail Peterson, Diane Peterson, Dana Rebmann, and Carey Sweet

6 Sonoma Distilleries to Visit for Spring Cocktails

Local distillers are in good spirits right now. As Sonoma County continues to ease pandemic restrictions, craft spirit tasting rooms are able to reopen and expand their offerings. To welcome guests back, they are serving up spring cocktails with a taste of the warm and sunny months ahead. Click through the above gallery to see what some of our favorite distilleries are mixing up for their guests.

From Chicago-Style to Napoletana: Where to Get Every Kind of Pizza in Sonoma

Pizza Salsiccia at Campo Fina in Healdsburg, Wednesday Oct. 8, 2014.(Kent Porter / Press Democrat) 2014

There are only three things needed to make a perfect pizza — crust, sauce and cheese. Sure, pepperoni, anchovies or pineapple may be required on your pizza, but the pure expression of a great pie needs no gilding.

How that crust and sauce come together, however, differs from region to region. From gut-busting Chicago deep dish to the simplest Neapolitan, we’ve found some of the best examples throughout Sonoma County. Mangia!

A few words on the origins of your favorite pies…

Neapolitan

The original. Neapolitan pizzas hail from Naples, Italy. Usually they’re personal-sized with a mottled crust (dark spots are a signature) and only topped with sauce, cheese, basil and olive oil. Pop it in a ridiculously hot oven for a minute or two and you’re done. Molto bene.

You’ll rarely find an authentic version in Sonoma County, but most of the local wood fired pizzas pay homage to this “true” pizza crust, then add all sorts of creative toppings that would horrify a purist. We’ll call them Neapolitan-inspired…

Sicilian Style

Also known as “grandma style” these pizzas are thicker and heartier and always square. You’ll get the best of all worlds with crispy, caramelized edges and lots of cheese and toppings. Detroit-style are based off of this style.

Detroit Style

Steel workers may or may not have inspired these pizzas when they used square automotive parts pans to cook up this light, unusually-shaped pizza. But in the past few years, this tasty, crisp crust has become popular.

Roman Style

A super thin crust often cut into squares.

Chicago Style

A signature style of the Windy City that’s deep, deep, deep. A high-rise buttery crust serves as a dam for all the dairy and tomato sauce stuffed inside. This is a commitment, ya know?

New York Style

Thin crust with giant slices that require folding in half if you’re going to do it right. Toppings tend to be minimalist.

3 New Weekend Hot Spots in Sonoma

Fried chicken from Folktable in Sonoma. (Courtesy of Folktable)

Let’s not mince words here. Cornerstone Sonoma has long sought, and failed to find, foundered to find an audience. It’s a lovely botanic spot with nifty sculptures, wine tasting rooms and aspirational design shops, and it’s grown even more attractive since becoming Sunset magazine’s test gardens. But the glue necessary to bind it together into a destination was never really there, as tenants and restaurants quietly came and went without adding to the cohesion of a larger whole.

Until now.

Even as a fledgling restaurant, Folktable — a project from Top Chef finalist and restaurateur Casey Thompson and executive sous chef Melanie Wilkerson — is transforming meh into magnificent.

After an extended ramping up and limited takeout service, Folktable has finally spread its wings this spring with a new and expanded menu, some dine-in seating and, most importantly, expansive patio service amid the magnificent gardens, shops and former outdoor Sunset test kitchen.

With flowers blooming, warm sun and a bustling brunch set packing the place, it’s safe to say this spot is about to become the biggest buzz in Wine Country.

The casual-yet-intriguing Folktable menu showcases lush local ingredients in stunning garden surroundings, elevating the long-struggling Cornerstone Sonoma. Folktable is the right restaurant for the space, with good food, a beautiful location and solid service.

Sitting under a sprawling olive tree with a full bag full of takeout dishes, we couldn’t imagine a lovelier meal: fried chicken, tater tots smothered in Kewpie mayo and bonito, and buttermilk carrot cake, each thing better than the last.

Fried chicken from Folktable in Sonoma. (Courtesy of Folktable)
Fried chicken at Folktable in Sonoma. (Courtesy of Folktable)

Best Bets

Fried Chicken Goujons, $18: This is just a fancy name for chicken fingers, but these are big and juicy breast meat pieces covered in sticky chile-honey sauce. Sweet milk-washed Hawaiian rolls and jalapeño ranch dip make it a picnic-like favorite.

Farm Harvest Salad, $14: Fresh greens with sliced apples and dried fruit with a tart vinaigrette was another highlight. It’s not a thriller, but it is a great light dish for hot days.

Turkish Eggs, $13: This dish may not be for everyone, but it’s a beauty. Poached eggs top warm Greek yogurt punctuated by Aleppo chile butter and crunchy shallots. Dip in crusty slices of sourdough for a satisfying breakfast or brunch dish.

Okonomiyaki Tots, $13: Here’s a riff on the savory Japanese pancake, topped with creamy mayo, sweet barbecue sauce, bonito flakes and scallions. It’s simply tots instead of a pancake, and makes a big shareable serving you’ll fight over.

There’s a lot more on the menu to love, including a dog menu (of course), coffee and pastries from their outdoor kiosk, and the Best Buttermilk Carrot Cake, $8, which lives up to its name.

Folktable falls under the growing brand umbrella of Sonoma’s Best Hospitality Group, owned by developers Ken and Stacy Mattson. The couple have spent more than $80 million on dozens of high-profile local properties in Sonoma. Thompson took the reins as executive chef for the group last year, working with Sonoma icons Ramekins Culinary School and the popular Mercantile shop on East Napa Street. The Mattsons’ portfolio also includes Dirty Girl Donuts and Sojourn Cellars, with plans to launch Motha Clucka (a breakfast spot in Boyes Hot Springs) and Thompson’s Georgette restaurant next year.

Folktable is open 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday, 23570 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, folktable.com.

Other weekend treats

Here are two other cheery weekend spots we’re loving right now.

Nimble and Finn’s

Guerneville’s legendary ice creamery has quietly opened a Santa Rosa outpost in Railroad Square. Seasonal flavors like Front Porch Mint Chip (the mint is from a plant outside one owner’s front porch), Meyer Lemon, Lavender Honeycomb and Whiskey Butterscotch are incredible, but add booze and you’ve got a cheeky little float.

With lower-octane alcohol like Champagne, wine, beer or hard cider, they’re a lazy afternoon sipper. We love the Permanent Holiday with creamy Meyer lemon ice cream, Lo Fi sweet vermouth and Goat Rock rosé cider, or the summery Strawberry Letter with strawberry sorbet, vermouth, elderflower and Champagne. Pair with one of their gourmet grilled cheese sandwiches.

123 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, nimbleandfinns.com. Open noon to 6 p.m. Thursday and Sunday, noon to 8 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Nimble & Finn's Ice Cream in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy of Nimble & Finn's Ice Cream)
Nimble & Finn’s Ice Cream in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy of Nimble & Finn’s Ice Cream)
Float at at Nimble and Finn's Ice Cream in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
Float at at Nimble & Finn’s Ice Cream in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)

Society Bakery Cafe

That cute little bakery at the Sebastopol Antique Society you’ve zoomed past a dozen times? Yep, it’s a thing.

This sweet gem has solid breakfast pastries and excellent sandwiches, and we’re in love with their not-too-sugary ginger-molasses cookies and their open-face egg salad sandwich on Gougette bread. As a bonus, there are lots of gluten-free options, plus special-order cakes and cookies available for preorder.

2661 Gravenstein Highway S., Sebastopol, 707-861-9665, societybakerycafe.net. Open 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday.

How the Pandemic Has Changed Wine Tasting in Sonoma

Last spring, Matrix Winery in Healdsburg moved tastings from indoors to its outdoor patio. (Matrix Winery)

Thirteen months ago, Sonoma County wineries were forced to close their tasting rooms, the first of many economic blows delivered by COVID-19.

At the time, Michael Haney, executive director of Sonoma County Vintners, one of the major wine industry associations in the county, was optimistic wineries would find ways to sell wine and sustain their businesses during what turned out to be an excruciatingly longer period than anyone had imagined.

“Our members are super-resilient and super-creative,” Haney said in March 2020. “They aren’t panicking. They’re analyzing, they’re being innovative and they’re sharing what they know.”

Collectively, they aced it. As restrictions slowly lift, with limited-capacity indoor wine tastings now allowed and more people getting out to taste, it appears many producers have weathered the storm and are prepared for a new normal.

“Creativity created wine sales,” Haney said last week. “Wineries survived with virtual platforms. Their life’s blood is to engage with consumers and get wines to them, and they did this virtually. It didn’t make up for (the reduction in visitors), but it kept things going.”

Creative adaptations

Using Zoom, Instagram and FaceTime, plus delivery services, Sonoma winemakers shipped wines to consumers in advance and tasted along with them in real time, online. They threw bingo parties, held trivia nights, paired wines with cheese, gave cooking demonstrations and beamed live music to anyone, everywhere. Corporations also joined the fun, connecting their employees with wineries on Zoom, bottles in hand.

With restaurants and wine bars open only for takeout until recently and visitors not allowed (or their numbers restricted), wineries’ desperation to sell wine fortuitously collided with stuck-at-home wine lovers’ need for entertainment and salivatory stimulation.

A case study that supports Haney’s view is Three Sticks Wines in downtown Sonoma. The winery closed its tasting casita, The Adobe, on March 1, 2020, upon Gov. Gavin Newsom’s statewide order.

According to COO Prema Behan, “We knew we needed to be in constant contact with people, those we already knew and those looking for something new. We were lucky to have been around a long time and visible.”

Three Sticks Wines COO Prema Behan. (Courtesy of Three Sticks Wines)

Behan, winemakers Ryan Prichard and Bob Cabral and other Three Sticks principals began producing virtual tastings with members of their wine club and those on their allocation list. Through social media, Three Sticks reached out to potential customers with an array of options, from tastings with the winemaker to an online concert with Kix Brooks of country-western duo Brooks & Dunn. Sommeliers and chefs hosted conversations with Behan, Prichard and Cabral. Three Sticks sold tasting kits which included the winery’s exceptional chardonnays and pinot noirs, along with a Coravin, a wine serving tool that uses inert gas to preserve the remaining wine in the bottle. Drones were flown over vineyards to capture their beauty and the videos became part of virtual visits.

“The virtual world expanded for us,” Behan said. “We discovered that our virtual guests wanted a rich experience.”

When the state allowed wineries to open if they had a food component, Three Sticks worked with neighboring El Dorado Kitchen to offer wine and food pairings and takeout paella. Before tasting rooms were allowed to pour for guests indoors, the winery converted their employee parking lot into an outdoor tasting oasis, complete with bohemian-style furnishings.

The Adobe was built in 1842 by Captain Salvador Vallejo, brother of General Mariano Vallejo, the founder of Sonoma. Bill and Eva Price bought the building in 2012 to house Three Sticks and painstakingly refurbished it while keeping the site’s historic nature intact. The recent return of indoor tastings (at 25% capacity, which will increase if Sonoma County moves from the yellow to the orange tier) once again gives visitors a sample of history as well as wine.

“We stayed within our budget for the year (2020),” Behan said. “Virtual channels earned money back, and we had a lack of travel and other expenses (airfare, lodging, meals and other costs of doing business).”

Behan and other winery principals said many pandemic-induced changes in how wine is served at tasting rooms will remain, from virtual events and reservation-only visits to seating 6 feet apart and face mask requirements. Tastings will continue outdoors whenever possible, as wineries found their guests preferred sitting in Wine Country and not just peering at it through windows.

The 2020 requirement to serve food in order to stay open was a high hurdle for many wineries, though customers spoke loud and clear about how they appreciated small bites along with the wines; the now-optional food component isn’t going away.

What lies ahead

Meanwhile, some things are likely to disappear in the wake of COVID-19. Bellying up to the bar and elbowing through to get a pour is going the way of the dodo. Even so, wineries such as Joseph Swan Vineyards in Forestville will add bar service to existing outdoor tastings, though in a safe, distanced manner. As wineries eat the costs set by FedEx and UPS, deeply discounted wine shipping rates for consumers are not sustainable and might also disappear.

Rod Berglund, winemaker and co-owner of Joseph Swan Vineyards since 1989 and married to Joe Swan’s daughter, Lynn Berglund, admits he’s a low-key kind of guy, “Not into glitz and glamour, and we don’t have a lot to sell except wine,” he said. That’s just fine with many winery visitors, who enjoy rustic surroundings, a low tasting fee and the chance to chat with the winemaker, who might have to wipe juice-stained hands before opening a bottle.

A maker of age-worthy pinot noirs and zinfandels, Joseph Swan Vineyards has cultlike status among those who favor elegance and complexity over power and richness. The tasting bar in the winery served the Berglunds well until indoor services were suspended. They then leveled space outside and outfitted the area with a table, chairs and a sunshade.

“That’s worked really well,” said Rod Berglund. “With spaced-out reservations, it’s given us more time to talk with guests, to share our story. We’re old-fashioned and authentic. We’ve been doing this for 40 years.” (Following requests, the Berglunds will soon reopen their indoor bar.)

Much newer to the game is Matrix Winery, located on Westside Road southwest of Healdsburg. Previously Rabbit Ridge, Matrix is now owned by Ken and Diane Wilson and pours chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, pinot noir and zinfandel wines that contrast with the big-bodied reds made by sister wineries deLorimier, Mazzocco, Wilson of Dry Creek and Pezzi King.

The Wilsons’ son, Sawyer Wilson, manages the Matrix tasting room, which last spring pivoted to by-appointment, outdoor tastings on its patio, with bocce courts and vineyard views. Popular with late-afternoon tasters, Matrix previously welcomed walk-ins until 5 p.m., and the tasting room was remodeled two years ago to accommodate crowds.

Sawyer Wilson said that while some wine club members, used to dropping in without an appointment, pushed back a bit at COVID-19 regulations at first, they’ve adapted and so has the winery.

“It’s been great to see everyone utilizing the outside space,” he said. “It’s a large property and people can spread out. We have more one-on-one time with visitors, and it’s easier to make connections. We explain the wines, show the specials and it’s better for both sides.”

(Matrix will likely reopen the tasting bar and continue to provide seated tastings when restrictions end.)

Labor shortages

There is something for every wine taster, now and post-pandemic, although all is not sparkly and bright for the industry.

Karen Maley, general manager of Robert Young Estate Winery in Alexander Valley, agreed with several other vintners that pandemic conditions have dealt a powerful punch: labor shortages.

“COVID certainly has impacted wineries’ supply of qualified staff,” Maley said. “PPP loans (early in the pandemic) helped us keep them, but that became untenable during the second lockdown in December, at the same time demand for staffing outpaced supply.

“Tasting room staff are now in great demand. In the luxury travel industry, high-end experiences are expected; for a winery, the experience differentiates it from all the other great wineries.”

And high-end experiences are in the hands of experienced staff. Hospitality is so vital to Robert Young Estate Winery that Robert Young II, grandson of founder Robert Young, is keenly focused on the people side of the business. He serves many guests himself, always with stories of how the family became pioneers in the valley.

“We had a great year in 2020,” Maley said, “and the reason was we have a base of really loyal customers across the U.S. They were stuck at home, couldn’t go out to dinner, couldn’t vacation. They’re ready to return. (Job seekers) now have their pick of jobs, at wineries, in restaurants and hotels if they want to work in high-end hospitality and can sell.”

A Folksinger Finds a Grounded Life On a 250-Acre Petaluma Ranch

The rural life suits Avery Hellman. The artist, who grew up in San Francisco and Marin, moved to a 250-acre ranch outside Petaluma six years ago seeking a grounded life and plenty of space to write songs and create music.

Avery and partner Andy Fahlander Hellman live in a 1920s Sears catalog house with a wide wraparound porch that’s been renovated and expanded over time. They share the property with plenty of animals, both wild and domesticated—balancing creative pursuits with an interest in raising their own food and managing the land sustainably. It’s a quiet life, closely connected to the rhythms of nature—all of which is to say, they come quite honestly by their well-broken-in leather boots.

The home they’ve created calls forth a particular sense of place, says Avery, who uses gender-neutral pronouns. “For me, and for other people who live in rural places, the natural world is just as big a deal in your life as another person: whether or not it rains, what predators are around, whether there’s a fire. Those things are deeply impactful in your emotional life.”

Avery with an orphan lamb, now grown, who was raised and bottle-fed by hand last spring. (Kim Carroll)
Elderly dog Guy helps guard the livestock. (Kim Carroll)

The grandchild of philanthropist Warren Hellman, who founded the Hardly Strictly Bluegrass festival, Avery tells these stories both in music and through a podcast, “Where the World Begins,” that brings home truths of rural Sonoma life, including interviews, thoughts on sustainable land use, even questions of identity and character.

“I felt like rural stories were not always fully represented, and even sometimes misrepresented,” explains Avery. “I wanted to affirm this way of living. I don’t think that the people who make our art and our music come from just two cities on the coast. I just don’t see it that way.”

To Avery, the land is a living character in their creative work, and so too are the many animals that live upon it. On the property are five horses, a pair of mini donkeys, dozens of sheep (both babydoll Southdowns and a rare breed raised by the Navajo for wool to weave rugs), 14 cattle, flocks of chickens and guinea hens, and “loads of dogs” including Guy, a grizzled and loveable Great Pyrenees mix who helps guard the livestock.

Avery, who has been riding since they were a kid and has a rescue mustang in training for some barrel racing later this summer, says horses have a lot to teach about humanity: “They’re such a great mirror for people. If they’re not willing, if they’re not learning why you’re asking them to do something, then you’re asking wrong. You have the responsibility to think it through and try to find an alternative path.”

Avery plays a 1930s-era Oahu guitar with abalone shell inlays. (Kim Carroll)
Vintage songbooks on the piano. (Kim Carroll)

Spring on the ranch, says Avery, is an inspiring time for both people and animals, a time of massive expansion. “The sheep and cattle have so much to eat, with all of the new grass, and you feel so hopeful about all of the resources the land has to give. It just feels infinite.” Avery forages for miner’s lettuce, which grows widely, while wildflowers—storksbill, poppies, lupines, even wild campanula—blanket the ranch’s steep, hillside pastures. And there are winter greens on offer in the garden, though it’s still a bit of a leaner time, as heat-loving tomatoes and peppers haven’t yet gotten going.

And, of course, now is also lambing time, the fourth season they’ve welcomed spring babies at the ranch. It can be busy, says Avery, especially if there are orphans needing to be bottle-fed three times a night, as there were last spring. “Seeing the baby animals be born, and their resilience, is pretty remarkable. It’s just so much fun to be around. The funniest thing is they’ll go to the pasture when they’re a week old, and instead of staying with their parents, they’ll group together and run and jump all around as a crew.”

Avery views the property as playing a role in modeling sustainable land use, calling upon the knowledge of longtime ranching neighbors and local groups like the Sonoma Mountain Institute and the Sonoma Ecology Center. They’re involved in researching new methods of grazing cattle and sheep to help pastures become more resilient, and they’ve invited these environmental organizations to the property to help restore waterways and conduct bird population surveys. Ones they see often—red-tailed hawks, Cooper’s hawks, American kestrels, white-tailed kites—are indicator species whose presence gives clues to the overall health of the landscape.

For Avery and Andy, each day’s creative projects—songwriting and rehearsing or perhaps working on a video or podcast project—are punctuated by calls to tend to chores with the animals and the garden. The two artists constantly feel the pull of the landscape — always inspiring but at times unforgiving — a feeling that takes a deep hold in their work. As the sun sets, there’s time to circle back from work and pause for reflection. “I’ll go on a walk with my partner and the dogs in the afternoon, after most of the day’s work is done, as the sun is setting,” says Avery. “And it’s a time when you can just enjoy what spring has to offer, with that mixture of the moisture and the rain, and the work.”

A letterpress poster for Avery’s latest album. (Kim Carroll)

Stories and songs of Sonoma Mountain

Avery Hellman has been interested in audio storytelling since high school, when they created a senior project inspired by the storytelling on the radio show “This American Life.” Their new podcast, “Where the World Begins,” is about the connection people make with the land, with stories set on Sonoma Mountain and interlaced with Hellman’s own music as well as delicate soundscapes they recorded at the ranch.

Avery comes from a musical family. Their grandfather was a bluegrass banjo player, and their father is a drummer whose band often rehearses at the ranch. Avery retreats to the large sheep barn for songwriting sessions and keeps a studio in one of the other outbuildings, where they spent a few months making a stop-motion video for one of the songs on their new album, “Songs of Sonoma Mountain.”

To listen to episodes of their Sonoma Mountain podcast, “Where the World Begins,” or to find their album “Songs of Sonoma Mountain,” which was named one of the Bay Area’s top ten albums of 2020 by KQED Arts, visit www.ismaymusic.com.